Installing the siding trim. Installation of vinyl siding - we sheathe the house with siding with our own hands (detailed instructions with photos, videos, diagrams and drawings). Installation of ordinary siding panels

Sheathing a house with siding is possible even for a beginner. It is enough to know the procedure and some of the nuances of installation. If as facing material you decide to choose vinyl siding, do-it-yourself installation is more than simple.

PVC siding is flexible and pliable, which reduces the likelihood of panel damage and injury. A step-by-step guide will allow you to sheathe the facade of the house with siding, even without construction experience.

Based on the material below, you will learn how to fix the siding to the wall correctly.

For greater clarity, each stage is accompanied by photos, diagrams, drawings and videos.

Please note that these installation instructions vinyl siding, the installation of which differs from the installation metal siding.

Knife. Who does not know how to cut vinyl siding: vinyl is a soft material, it is easily cut sharp knife. To do this, you need to designate a groove on the panel. Bend and unbend the strip several times. As a result, it will break according to the intended cut.

Electric jigsaw. Used instead of a knife. It gives a more beautiful cut, and also allows you to speed up the process of preparing panels to size.

Drill or perforator. With their help, it is convenient to increase the holes for fastening hardware or punch new ones.

Screwdriver. For screwing fasteners.
Building level. The laser is very easy to use.
Roulette.

Good to know. If you are going to use a grinder to cut siding panels, this is acceptable. However, keep in mind that at high speeds, the sheet cut will begin to heat up and melt. This will cause it to deform. Therefore, use the grinder at low power.

When starting to clad a house with vinyl siding, always keep in mind that this material has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that a gap of 5-7 mm must be observed between the starting strips, as well as between rows and strips. And if the installation is carried out at a temperature below -10 ° C (which is generally unacceptable from the point of view of common sense, but it is quite customary for domestic practice), then the gaps should be at least 10 mm.

There must also be a gap between the working surface of the material and the fasteners. Below we will talk about this in more detail.

Vinyl siding should rest at least a couple of hours at outdoor temperature before installation work.

Under no circumstances should siding be screwed through with a self-tapping screw. This approach to installation can lead to cracking of the sheet of material. But, if such a need arose, to fix the sheet not where the nail holes were punched, you must first drill a hole for the hardware, and only then fix the sheet or additional element.

Despite the fact that fastening siding with self-tapping screws is the most common in domestic practice, you can still use fasteners such as nails and staples.

Installation of vinyl siding - instructions

In general, the installation of vinyl siding can be divided into several stages:

fixing the starting bar;
installation of vertical bars (corners and H-connector);
installation of siding panels;
window framing and doorways siding;
installation of vinyl siding around the arch;
arrangement of protruding elements;
fastening of finishing strips;
soffit installation;
pediment lining.

Good to know: fastening siding to a metal crate or to a wooden one, or even to the base of the wall surface, always starts from the bottom. This allows each subsequent panel to be placed above the previous one. Thus, it is achieved additional protection surface or insulation from moisture.

1. Installation of the starting bar (starting strip)

Installation of siding panels always takes place using the starting bar. It is attached around the perimeter of the building (or that part of it that is planned to be sheathed).

The initial bar is closed by a number of panels, so there are no special requirements for it. It can be connected from scraps or a bar of a different color can be used.

The starting bar sets the tone for the whole work. It is better to spend more time leveling it than trying to correct even the smallest slope during the installation work.

Before you begin to fasten it, you need to designate the place of the future fastening.

To do this, drive in a nail (screw in a screw) at the lowest level of the wall.

The distance from the nail to the ground should be equal to the width of the starting bar.

Next, stretch the thread between the nails. Check that the thread tension is correct with building level. Next, using chalk, draw a line along the thread between the nails. It will indicate the line of attachment of the starting strip.

The more often you use the level, the more correctly and evenly the installation of the siding will be performed.

However, at least every third row of ordinary strips of siding should be checked for the possibility of deviation from the level.

After that fix the bar.

How to attach vinyl siding to a wall

When installing vinyl elements, fasteners must be properly carried out. Namely, it is important to adhere to the following conditions:

- the distance between two adjacent self-tapping screws should be about 250-300 mm.

It is necessary to twist the hardware or hammer in a nail strictly perpendicular to the plane.

- fasten the screws only in the middle of the nail hole, which has an oval appearance, it is this trick that allows the panel to slide when expanding. The right way shown in the figure.

- the self-tapping screw is not fully tightened. A gap of 1 mm must be observed between the surface of the material and the head of the self-tapping screw.

The desired gap is achieved in two ways.

First, you can attach a coin.

Secondly, you can twist it all the way, and then loosen it one turn. There should always be a gap of 5-7 mm between two starting bars located in the neighborhood.

The gap compensates for the linear expansion of the material.

Installation of the strip at the corners is not carried out completely. Since a special corner bar is used to arrange the corner.

Using staples as fasteners, you must also maintain a gap of 1 mm.

Good to know. Some builders recommend immediately setting the starting bar on window and door blocks. However, this should not be done, because the need for it does not always arise. The dimensions of the window are not so ideal that ordinary siding strips during installation turn out to be just at the level of the strip.

2. Fastening of vertical strips - corners and H-connector

2.1 Fastening the planks

The corners are set before the installation of the main strips. It is in them that ordinary panels are wound up.

Mounting a vinyl corner also has its own characteristics:

First, the angle is set to 5-7 mm without touching the ground. When heated, the angle will expand vertically and the gap left will not allow it to deform.

Secondly, it is important to properly fix the screws. As you can see in the figure, the corner is attached starting from the top nail hole. Moreover, the screw is twisted into its upper part. On this self-tapping screw (nail) the whole corner seems to be hanging in the air.

Thus, the material can only expand downwards and to the sides.

The rest and the last self-tapping screw are twisted in the same way as the starting strip - clearly in the middle of the nail hole.

Thirdly, the lower edges of the corner are cut to the width of the starting bar. This avoids deformation of the material when heated.

It will look as shown in the picture.

Separate cases in the technology of installing vinyl siding

The length of the corner bar is up to 4 meters. But you may need to lengthen the corner.

Mount the bottom bar of the corner, then cut off the fasteners on the sides from the top and “put” on the bottom, leaving a gap of 5 mm for compression under the influence of temperature.

The overlap is 20-25 mm.

The figure shows how to lengthen the bar

Good to know:

The joints at the corners and the H-connector must be at the same level. It will do appearance home more harmonious.
The upper bar of the corner is mounted on the lower one, and not vice versa. This will protect the corner from water leakage.

Since the corners of vinyl siding are flexible, they can be used to trim blunt and sharp corners of a building.

For an obtuse angle, the profile must be pressed down, for an acute one, narrowed.

For the inner corner, the procedure will be similar.

Given the cost of the corners, you can save on them if you mount two J-bars in their place. The installation process is shown in the figure.

2.4. H-profile installation

This type of work also does not take much time and effort. It is important to correctly calculate the location of the bar. Fastening is carried out similarly to fastening corners.

the lower bar is mounted first, and then the upper one;
if necessary, lengthening is cut into pieces of 5-7 mm with perforation (to compensate for expansion);
overlap profiles.

Keep in mind, the starter strips must be adjacent to the H-connector, and not vice versa.

Good to know. You can do without installing an H-shaped profile in this case, the siding strips will overlap.

The photo shows how the wall should look before starting the installation of ordinary siding panels.

3. Installation of ordinary siding panels

We’ll make a reservation right away that ordinary panels can be fixed in a circle, or you can finish one wall. From the point of view of siding installation technology, this does not matter.

Installation takes place in several steps:

3.1. The first strip of siding is inserted into the vertical grooves of the angled or H-shaped profile and fixed with a self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the nail holes.

At the same time, hardware is attached from the center of the panel to the edges, towards the vertical slats.

Good to know.
To make it easier to insert the strip, you need to slightly bend it outward.

As already mentioned, the siding panel starts in the outer or inner corners. In case you are using a budget option installation, arrange inner panel can be done in the manner shown in the figure.

Don't forget to leave room for expansion.

3.2. The siding panel must be lowered to the initial bar and snapped into place. To do this, you need the strip lock to catch on the starting bar. Never "pull out" the panel. Since in this case the radius of the panel will stretch and the locks will be deformed. How to install the siding panel correctly - see the picture.

Good to know.
If, after the lock of the next strip snaps onto the lock of the previous one, the panel can be moved horizontally, then its installation was carried out according to the rules.

3.3. After the panel is installed, it can be fixed with hardware.

3.4. All remaining rows, with the exception of the last one, are performed in the same sequence.

If you need to connect the panels to each other, and you have not provided H profile or you don't like how it looks, you can do it like this.

First, remove the interlock from the panel.
Secondly, lay two sheets on top of each other.
Thirdly, put the cut off part of the sheet under the lock.

The photo shows what it looks like in practice.

Note:

Some manufacturers produce panels without locking on the end of the siding sheet.
Panels at the joints are not sealed.
The mounting line can be flat, or it can be offset.

4. Installation of a window siding strip near window and door openings

There are two possible ways of arranging openings relative to the wall surface.

in one plane. In this case, the openings are simply sheathed around the perimeter with J-profiles and the siding panel is already inserted into them.

with slope arrangement. With this arrangement, the panels are installed in the manner indicated in the figure.

In practice, it looks like it is shown in the photo.

Getting the panel into such a design is also not difficult. Because the vinyl is quite flexible, the panel is simply bent slightly and installed into the J-profile.

The main thing here is to properly cut the strip of siding.

Docking ears are holes in the strip of material designed for fastening hardware. They are made with a punch.

5. Installation of vinyl siding around the arch

If the openings in your house end in an arch, this is not a problem for installing plastic siding.

Finishing an arch with vinyl siding differs from finishing a regular opening only in the way the J-bar is installed.

Flexible J-bar greatly simplifies the finishing of arched openings. To do this, notches are made on the profile and the smaller the radius, the more often notches should be made.

The process is clearly shown in the photo.

Installation of siding around protruding objects occurs by cutting the strip and fastening it with an overlap.

7. Installation of finishing strips and the last row of siding panels

It is done like this - first the finishing bar is fixed.

Then the distance from the last ordinary strip is measured from it. This is the value that the last siding panel should correspond to.

The strip is bent horizontally in an arc and wound into the lock and the finish bar.

8. Installation of siding soffit

8.1. With wind bar

If the front board has small size it can be closed with a wind bar. To do this, a finishing bar is mounted along the upper edge of the frontal board, and the wind bar is attached so that its upper part is fixed by the finishing profile.

Then a J-profile is attached to the wall and a soffit is installed between it and the wind bar.

In this case, the soffit can be installed in one of the two ways shown in the diagram.

In this way, installation is carried out if the frontal board is wider than the wind bar.

Wherein outer corner mounted on the edge of the frontal board, and the J-profile on both sides of it on required distance. Soffit is cut out right size and starts between one of the parts of the corner and the J-bar.

Similarly, the finishing on the second side.

It is not recommended to mount a dark-colored soffit in this way, since it is highly prone to fading on the frontal bar.

9. Mounting the gable with siding

Installing a gable is no different from installing ordinary siding strips. Produced as follows:

9.1. installation of the starting line. Occurs in full accordance with the rules described above.

Good to know:
You can use all the remnants of the J-profile that you have accumulated during your work to finish the pediment. It is not visible under the roofing material anyway.

This work is done as shown in the photo.

To do this, the J-strips must be laid on top of each other and cut diagonally on the front. Let's not forget the gap.

9.5. Plank preparation.

In order to cut off the siding strip correctly, you need to measure the angle of inclination of the roof slope.

This can be done using a simple trick: put a piece of a strip of material to the surface of the pediment, and the whole panel is level with the J-profile.

Then you need to draw a sharpened pencil over the overlap of the sheets. The result will be an accurate angle of inclination. Next, you should remove a short piece and cut off the siding along the line.

The process is more clearly shown in the drawing above.

Cut the corner of the last siding panel and bring it into the J-profile.

This is an exceptional case in the installation of vinyl siding, in which the hardware or nail hits the panel through and through.

Installation of vinyl siding - video instruction

Conclusion

In this article, we tried to reveal all the features of installing vinyl siding. We hope now you know how to mount facade siding with your own hands, as well as components for it.

Siding panels are installed in accordance with proven installation technology. It should be remembered that the installation of such a finishing material involves the use of special profiles or strips, which are represented by drain, finishing or final, starting or initial, window, as well as connecting and other types of additional elements.

General information

Installation work on the arrangement of the facade of the building with cladding based on siding panels, as a rule, is carried out independently. It is for this reason that it is necessary to clearly understand the purpose of all additional or component elements, as well as the rules for their installation.

Most often, the calculation of components and their selection is carried out in the process of acquiring finishing siding panels. The installation of finishing siding material is impossible without the use of special add-ons, which give the entire finish guaranteed strength, durability and a presentable appearance.

Before choosing and installing such add-ons, you should familiarize yourself with the features of the application, purpose and characteristics of the main components involved in the installation of siding panels of any kind and type.

Characteristics and purpose

Profiled strips for siding panels are represented by the following main types of doborniks.

Starting profile strip

It is necessary to take into account the fact that such an initial siding strip must be installed across the batten frame. Under it should be a rigid type of foundation. On a wooden frame, such an element can be represented by a perforated corner or rail, and on a galvanized version of the CD-batten - by a UD profile. The proprietary version of the subsystem has a base provided by the manufacturers.

Finish profile strip

Installing the latest siding trim panel involves using a trim strip that clamps the edge of the cut trim sheet. This version of the profile, like the starting bar, is fixed across the frame of the crate and needs to be tightened. To obtain the required stiffness during installation, the same method is used as for the initial profile.

The fastening of this type of strap is carried out arbitrarily. As in the case of using a finishing profile strip, this fastening allows the element to freely contract and expand with temperature changes. A profile of this type is also available for the installation of plinths, which imitate natural finishing materials.

J-Trim profile additional elements are used at the end of the decoration of the cladding space, and the installation site is the protruding structures on the surface of the walls, as well as in the absence of the transition of siding panels at the level of one plane.

Window profile or window trim for siding

The near-window or sloping version of the bar is usually installed in areas that need to cover narrow recesses. Such areas are most often observed on window and door slopes. The screwing of such a profile is performed in any order.

H profile strip

An H-shaped profile or a connecting type of profile strip for finishing with siding panels is used when joining siding panels along the length. This version of the plank is mounted along the frame of the crate under the siding panels. For this element, additional profiles of a horizontal type are installed on the frame of the crate in increments of 40 cm. Fastening is carried out in any order.

Casing and hinged profile strip

Platbands or a wide version of the J-shaped profile are used, as a rule, for decorative purposes and are installed when switching from one type of siding panel to another or as a beautiful frame. The fixing of the element is performed arbitrarily.

Siding installation (video)

Dimensions and color

Regardless color solution All manufactured doborniks have similar dimensions:

the starting finishing option, as a rule, has a length of 366 cm and is used during the installation of the first finishing siding panel;
the standard length of the finishing profile strip for siding is 366 cm;
profile strips for the outer and inner corners are, as a rule, 305 cm long;
the standard length of the J-Trim profile bar is 366 cm;
the standard length of the slope bar does not exceed 305 cm;
standard indicators for the length of the connecting profile are 305 cm;
the standard length of the trim strip does not exceed 366 cm.

Installation rules

Installation work for the installation of all profile components elements are produced in accordance with established technological requirements and are characterized by the following features:

Starting profile strip

Self-assembly of siding panels involves the use of this type of strip, the color of which does not matter. Such a profile element is completely closed cladding panel. In addition, the starting profile must be firmly fixed to the base with nails or self-tapping screws.

Finish profile strip

It is fixed absolutely arbitrarily, and the self-tapping screws used for fastening must be underscrewed by 1 mm. Such a gap should be made so that the material does not deform during temperature changes. Nails must also be hammered with a millimeter gap.

Inner and outer corner profiles

When installing, consider the dimensions corner strips, and the extreme profile element of the frame should be installed with a distance of 10 cm from the corner of the structure. This fastening allows the perforated edge to coincide with the crate. Fixing is also done arbitrarily.

J-Trim profile strip and J-profile chamfer

wind profile strip for siding finishing it is used on narrow sections of the facing surface. As a rule, such a profile option is necessary for high-quality cladding of a cornice or balcony and roof. The profile strip is intended for installation in the final version of the profile, and its fixation is carried out with a stainless self-tapping screw through the cladding.

In addition, the hinged and draining profile strip of siding panels is necessary when decorating and does not belong to the category of guide profile strips for finishing panels. As a rule, such decorative technique necessary to design the transition from the stone sections of the protruding basement to the facade plane.

With the help of a competent choice of profile panels and the correct installation of such guide elements, the installation of the panels will be as easy as possible, and the installed finish will last a long time and differ high level external aestheticism and style. It should be remembered that it is advisable to use only components recommended for installation, the quality of which is guaranteed by the manufacturer.

Accessories and additional elements of siding (video)

The initial stage of siding installation is the installation of accessories. First, it is more convenient to install vertical accessories (outer and inner corners, connecting H-profiles), as well as window and door framing, then horizontal accessories (starting strips), horizontal siding, filing of roof overhangs and.

Before installing siding, make sure all wall planes are level and straight. The basis of even walls can be metal or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood. If it is necessary to additionally insulate the walls of the house, a film is laid under the crate, which protects the insulation from moisture.

Installation of starting bars

Before installing the starter strip, you need to find the bottom point of the wall. Using a level, as well as chalk or pencil, you need to draw a perfectly horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the building, starting from any corner. After drawing the line, you must return to the same point from which you started.

Now you need to find the lowest point of the facade relative to the horizon.

To do this, measure the distances from the line you drew at the corners of the building to the bottom of the wall.

The point where the distance is the largest will be the starting point for mounting the starting strip.

Install the beacon 4.5 cm above the lowest point of the wall and draw another line in the same way around the entire facade of the building. Or you can measure the distance from the beacon to the line drawn at the bottom of the wall and mark the same distance along the perimeter of the building.

At the corners of the house, it is necessary to measure a distance equal to the width of the outer corner shelf, taking into account the gap for thermal contraction-expansion.

Align the top edge of the starting bar with the drawn line and attach to the crate with self-tapping screws.

When installing the rest of the starting strips, do not forget to indent the temperature gaps.

Installation of internal and external corners

Cut the outer corner to the required length minus 6 mm (compression-expansion gap).

Lower the lower edge of the outer corner by 4 mm (compression-expansion gap).

Install self-tapping screws into the top of the topmost perforation on both sides of the outside corner.

Install the remaining self-tapping screws in the center of the perforations at a distance of no more than 40 cm.

If it is necessary to vertically join the outer corners, it is most convenient to make an "overlap" joint.

In order for the connection to protect the facade of the house from wind and snow loads, the upper profile is installed on top of the lower one.

On the upper accessory, it is necessary to cut off the bar with perforations and leave only the outer decorative part.

Install the bottom outside corner first, then the top.

Note! The height of the cut off part of the corner must not be less than the required compression-expansion gap, and the overlap of the accessories must be equal to the temperature gap plus 2 centimeters.

It is most convenient to mark the joint on the ground or on a table. To do this, lay the two outer corners on top of each other with the required overlap (20 mm). The intersection is marked and both mounting strips of the upper accessory must be cut off according to the received marks.

The installation technology of the inner corner is similar to the installation of the outer one.

A more budgetary option for mounting an outer corner or an inner corner is to use two J-profiles instead of the corresponding accessory. The corner of the house in this case will be "typesetting".

Installation of H-profiles connecting

Consider in advance the location of the H-profiles on the facade of the house. In these places it will be necessary to install additional profiles. As a rule, the connecting H-profile is installed in the middle of the wall and / or they distinguish window and door openings.

It is advisable to use H-profiles on long blank walls. They also need to be installed at the junction of the house with any extension, which has seasonal fluctuations different from the house.

Since the H-profile belongs to vertical accessories, during its installation it is necessary to follow the same rules as when installing, for example, external and internal corners (the first fastener is installed in the upper part of the upper mounting hole, the rest are strictly in the middle).

Necessary gaps for compression-expansion in this case:

the upper part of the H-profile must be lower than the roof overhang by approx. 2 mm.
the lower part of the H-profile is approximately 4 mm below the starter bar and VINYL-ON siding panels.

Remember to cut off the perforated strip and leave only the decorative part of the accessory.

If there is design features(for example, a protruding base) that interfere with the thermal expansion of the H-profile, it is necessary to leave a gap of 4-6 mm.

The vertical joining of H-profiles is carried out in exactly the same way as the joining of external and internal corners, i.e. necessary:

Make an overlap of the upper profile on the lower one.
Cut off the perforated strip.
First install the lower profile, and then the upper one.

Note! The height of the cut off part of the profile must not be less than the required compression-expansion gap, and the overlap of the accessories must be equal to the temperature gap plus 2 centimeters.

Installation of window and door frames

Window and door openings in relation to the wall can be recessed deep or located on the same level with the wall.

The VINYL-ON product line, which you can buy at Stroymet's roofing and siding sales offices, includes special accessories for finishing various types of openings.

J-profiles, near-window profiles or special VINYL-ON j-platbands can be used to finish windows and doors.

There are two main ways to frame the decorative part of the openings - this is the so-called "overlap" and "corner" method.

Note! As with the “overlap” installation method, as well as with “corner” installation, the vertical profiles at the joints are wound under the upper horizontal, and the lower horizontal under the vertical ones.

The gap for compression-expansion in this case is in the upper part of the profiles framing the openings on the sides - 1-3 mm. At the bottom - 3-5 mm. The lower horizontal profile is shortened by 2-3 mm on each side to allow thermal contraction-expansion.

When installing profiles "at an angle" there is no need to cut off both the vertical and horizontal profile at an angle. In the upper mounting nodes, it is enough to cut the horizontal profile at an angle, and in the lower - vertical.

This principle is applied both when mounting j-profiles, and when mounting j-platbands and near-window profiles.

Finishing of openings with J-profile VINYL-ON

Finishing openings with a j-profile is carried out according to the following principles:

To finish the opening, you will need 4 pieces of J-profile.

The size of each of the profiles is calculated as "the length of the corresponding part of the opening plus two widths of the perpendicular profile."

For example, in the figure, the width of the window opening is 1200 mm, the width of the perpendicular profile is 77 mm. For the upper part of the window, you will need a profile with a length of 1200 + 77 + 77 = 1354 mm.

Since the framing of window and door openings performs not only an aesthetic, but also a protective function, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of water runoff. To do this, on a profile that is installed on the upper part of the opening, Stroymet installers recommend making cuts equal to the width of the perpendicular profile and bending the resulting “tongue” down.

The side profiles are installed in such a way that the cut-out “tongue” is inside them. To do this, you need to cut a piece of vinyl in the side profiles. Be sure to leave a small gap for compression-expansion. The vertically located profile should not rest against the upper horizontal one. In this case, 3-5 mm will be enough.

Note! This principle is also used when installing near-window profiles and when installing j-platbands.

Finishing of openings with VINYL-ON near-window profile

The VINYL-ON range of accessories for installing vinyl siding includes a “near-window profile” specially designed for finishing recessed openings. The width of the working panel of the profile is 215 mm, which allows you to finish fairly deep-seated windows and doors.

In general, the method of performing installation work when installing a near-window profile repeats the principles of working with a j-profile. The main difference lies in the installation technology of the sloping part of the profile.

On the inner sloping part of the window opening, install the finishing strips. Subsequently, they need to "bring" the sloping part of the near-window profile.

To preserve the possibility of thermal contraction-expansion of the near-window profile:

the working surface of the near-window profile (forming the slope of the opening) in horizontal profiles must be shorter than the width of the opening by the value of the temperature gap on each side.
At the same time, in the upper profile, it is necessary to cut a piece of the desired size, and in the lower one, you can leave the “tongue” and bend it onto the slope of the opening.
the working surface of the vertical profile in the upper joint abuts against the horizontal profile. In the lower docking node, it is necessary to leave a gap for compression-expansion.

Finishing of openings with j-platband VINYL-ON

For framing windows and doors installed in the same plane with the wall, VINYL-ON offers a special accessory - j-platband.

The order of installation of j-platbands VINYL-ON is similar to the order of installation of near-window profiles. First, the upper and lower horizontal profiles are installed, and then the vertical side profiles.

Do not forget to leave gaps for thermal contraction-expansion.

Installation of finishing strips and fillets (cornice moldings)

Since the finishing strips are located directly under the eaves or soffit, they are installed almost simultaneously with the last horizontal siding panels. However, the finish strip must be installed prior to installing the last panel of siding.

As a rule, the top panel of the siding needs to be trimmed. In this case, using a punch, make special "petals" in the panel adjacent to the finish strip, and slide the panel inside the finish strip.

If you plan to install VINYL-ON spotlights on the eaves of the house, it is more convenient to use the special accessory VINYL-ON - Galtel (cornice molding) for mounting the last siding panel.

The fillet is attached not to the wall, but to the eaves of the roof, so it can be fixed at a distance necessary for the “hook” of the siding panels.

Insert the siding panel with petals into the lock of the penultimate panel. top insert into the final profile and fasten the panel from the bottom up.

Fillet (cornice molding) VINYL-ON can also be placed simply on top of a facade finished with siding. In this case, on the last panel of the siding, it is necessary to make additional mounting holes with a puncher. Under the siding panel, if necessary, a leveling wooden plank is installed.

Panel fastened in the usual way. The fillet is installed on top of the panel and closes the mounting holes.

Installing accessories on the gable

As a receiving profile when finishing roof gables, a j-profile, Galtel (cornice molding) or an internal corner is used.

In general, the installation of j-profiles, fillets and internal corners on the gable of the roofs is carried out according to the rules for installing vertical accessories. If it is necessary to join two profiles, "overlap" the upper profile onto the lower one.

When joining two mounting profiles under the roof ridge, it is necessary to bring the front plate of the upper right profile inside the left one. To do this, you need to attach two profiles under the ridge and mark the docking point.

Cut the first profile along the marked line, in the second you need to remove only the bar with mounting holes without touching the front part. During installation, you need to bring the front bar inside the first profile.

NOTE:

In the space under the eaves on the gables of the roofs, strong heating of the facade often occurs. In order to avoid heating j-profiles, indent 2-2.5 cm from the corner of the connection between the wall and the roof.
In the offices of Stroymet, in addition to Vinylon products, you can buy vinyl siding brands,.

Installing soffits and cornice boards

We remind you that the soffits must be installed before cutting and installing the panel of the last siding panel.

Device truss system in different houses may differ. It is important to understand that in order to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space the best option is an open cornice overhang. Therefore, we recommend that you remove the old boards from the closed cornice overhang before carrying out work on the installation of spotlights and accessories.

In the middle of the cornice overhang, install an additional lath of the crate, into which you subsequently need to install fasteners

The receiving profiles, in which the spotlights will subsequently be mounted, must be installed parallel to each other.

To comply with this rule, you must first install the receiving profile on the eaves. Another receiving profile is installed at the required height directly on the wall of the house using a level.

To install the soffit into the receiving profiles, measure the distance between them (along the inside) and cut the panel 6-8 mm less than this size.

Lead the soffit into the receiving profile installed on the wall, and then into the profile installed on the cornice overhang.

The connection of soffits at the corners of the roof is usually done at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees.

Installation of horizontal siding

The easiest way to mount horizontal siding on a blank wall. But in this case, it is important to observe the following rules:

Snap the panels freely, without tightness, stop or special physical impact.
Be sure to leave room for thermal contraction and expansion of the panels.
Be sure to keep horizontal when installing panels. A slight distortion of one of them will lead to a distortion of the entire facade. To keep the panels horizontal, control this setting with a level after each row.

It is necessary to start the installation of siding panels from the corner of the house or from the doorway.

Slide the first panel into the mounting recess of the accessory. Hook the lock of the start bar with the lock of the panel and pull up until it clicks into place. But do not pull the panel up too much. remember, that installed panel must be able to move from side to side.

Panel fasteners start from the middle to the edges. Install the last fastener 10-15 cm from the end of the panel.

ATTENTION! It is forbidden to install horizontal siding all the way into the inside of vertical accessories.

The facade looks most aesthetically pleasing, on which the horizontal panels are interconnected using a special accessory VINYL-ON (connecting H-profile).

If it is necessary to install overlapping panels, observe the following recommendations:

do not place panel joints under or above window openings.
after 2-3 rows of panels, change the location of the "overlap" on the wall.

In places of "overlapping" the panels must be trimmed as follows:

If there are any objects on the wall, always start the row of siding from the place where they are located. This will allow you to avoid an excessive number of siding panel joints.

As a rule, when framing window openings with horizontal siding, the siding panels under the window must be trimmed.

In order to mount the panel under the window, measure the width of the opening, add thermal contraction-expansion gaps to this size and cut a piece of the panel to the required depth. There will be enough clearance of 2-3 mm.

The fastening of the siding panel to the lower part of the frame of the window opening is carried out using the so-called. "petals" applied with a punch.

Attaching the siding panel to the top of the window and door frames follows the same principles.

If it is necessary to install siding panels between closely spaced vertical accessories (for example, between two window openings or between a corner of a house and a doorway), the siding panel must be folded and inserted into the mounting recesses of the accessories.

To install horizontal siding on a roof gable, you need to prepare templates that follow the angle of the roof slope.

To do this, take two pieces of the panel. Install one segment on the wall sheathing, and the second parallel to the cornice overhang.

On the first piece of the panel, draw a line using the second piece as a ruler.

Cut the marked panel along the line. It is she who will be the template for all other panels.

In the case of roof finishing where the angle of inclination changes (for example, a mansard sloping roof), it is necessary to make a set of templates for each corner of the template.

In the future, the length of the panels installed using templates is adjusted each time depending on the width of the gable.

Be sure to leave a compression-expansion gap between the siding panel and the bottom of the mounting recess of the receiving accessory.

The installation of the last panel (under the roof ridge) is carried out through it work surface. This is the only place where fasteners can be installed in this way.

If a horizontal siding panel needs to be replaced, insert the curved end of the tool under the edge of the panel and grab the back edge of the lock with it. To open the lock, pull down and move the tool along the panel. Same procedure, but reverse direction carried out to re-fix the panel.

Installation of siding on walls adjacent to the roof

If you use roofing iron in your construction as a waterproofing, when installing the receiving profile, move it 2-2.5 cm away from the tin sheets heated in the sun.

Note:

When used as a finish roofing steel uncoated, reflective sun rays on the siding panel, which can lead to its heating over 55-60°C.
At Stroymet, you can also buy modern roofing materials from Russian and European manufacturers -,.

In this case, it is best to mount the siding without an overlap, using whole panels. If overlap cannot be dispensed with, it must be done “from the roof”. In this case, the snow will slide without clogging the gap.

When facing a building with siding, the list of additional elements required during the installation process includes a finishing strip, which is attached at the final stage of installing the panels. This detail makes it possible to give a finished look to the covered area, to clearly fix the size of the boundaries of the stacked sheets. Quantity is determined taking into account the architectural features of the house.

Purpose and place in the overall design

The end face of the last sheet in a row is closed by a finishing profile strip made of the same material as the coating itself. It prevents uncontrolled ventilation of the lined facade, performs fixing and decorative functions. It is a panel, one edge of which (along the longitudinal axis) is flat with perforated holes for fasteners, and the other is bent with a loop (lock). Outwardly similar to the J-Trim, but differs in the size of the curved part.

Produced in 2 types:

made of galvanized steel with a standard length of 2 and 3 m, a width of 45 mm, but when purchased from the manufacturer, individual options according to the sketch of the customer;
PVC strip for vinyl siding - 3000, 3050, 3600, 3660 mm.

In the domestic market, such brands are widely represented in retail chains that produce coatings, components and fasteners, when used, warranty obligations come into effect:

Grand Line;
Alta Profile;
Dock;
fineber;
Dolomite;
American Siting.

Range of siding different color- from white to brown, you can choose shades of beige or vanilla that are pleasing to the eye.

A high-quality finishing strip retains strength (impact resistance, no swelling, delamination, plasticity) and decorative (color) characteristics depending on the material of the outer layer:

vinyl - up to 10 years;
acrylic - up to 20 years;
polypropylene - up to 30 years.

The manufacturer specifies in the passport the influence climatic conditions operation after installation for the service life of each type of siding: low seasonal temperatures, air humidity, solar activity in the area. To stiffen the plastic bar, it lies on a steel tape perforated for fasteners. For metal version paronite lining is allowed to level the base as much as possible. Features of the geometry of the facade do not affect the possibility of using the panel - it is permissible to mount it in a horizontal and vertical position.

When calculating the required amount, take into account that finish profile fixed not only under the eaves of the roof. It is often used for edging window openings. When installing metal siding, it is recommended to fasten under corner element to improve the reliability of this node.

The order of mounting the bar

It is necessary to start after reliable fixation of the penultimate siding in a row. Nails or screws are purchased with anti-corrosion coating or from stainless materials (aluminum), the hat has a diameter of 8-10 mm. The length of the fastener is chosen in such a way that it sinks into the body of the crate by at least 2 cm. It is forbidden to use adhesives to install all parts of the roof. They are only allowed to seal the joints.

Operations are performed in this order:

Determined overall size whole and cut pieces. Cutting from vinyl or steel is done with a fine-toothed hacksaw to make smooth edge no splits or splits. It is permissible to use scissors for metal or a cutter knife. A grinder with a high disc speed is not used, as the vinyl may melt. If you have a hand saw (jigsaw) with a low stroke rate, then you can make a test cut to determine the feasibility of using this tool before processing the plank to a given size. Sections of galvanized metal are immediately closed spray paint(anti-corrosion protection).
The finishing profile is attached along the marked border (under the eaves or on the edge of the corner plane). The flat part with holes for screws / nails is located in the direction of the sheet, the lock is along outside lining. Correctly observe the clearances for thermal expansion of the material. The screw is not screwed in completely, leave 1-2 turns. The head of the nail does not reach the surface by 1-2 mm. The tip is directed to the center of the hole at an angle of 90° to the plane of the crate. Step - 3-5 perforations.
Determine the dimensions of the last sheet. This is the distance from the edge of the already laid panel to the outer edge of the lock. Subtract 3 mm from the result.
On the cut fragment, a rectangular perforation is applied with special pliers. The breakout pitch is 100 mm.
First, adjacent panels are connected, and then the finishing fragment is slightly bent and brought into the lock. Entering all the way into the profile should ensure a secure fit.

Knowing the following rules helps to fix the siding:

a bent nail gives the bar curvature, which can cause swelling;
do not drive nails into the front of the profile;
for finishing the protrusions use the J-bar;
installation is carried out with scaffolding or a stable ladder.

Products are transported in a covered van. The size of the body must allow the placement of additional elements along the length so that they do not hang over the edge. Transportation is allowed only in packaging. If it is absent, then the slats are laid up front side lined with fabric or several layers of dense polyethylene. It is permissible to lay the profile on top of the panel; it is forbidden to load siding on additional elements.

The temperature in the body of the transport should not be lower than -50 and higher than +50°C. The same conditions apply to warehouse. Do not expose parts to direct sunlight or rain. With a long shelf life, building materials are stacked on even wooden pallets, no more than 5-10 packages in a stack. Vertical positioning is not allowed.

For an unprepared person, a variety of materials for exterior finish available on modern market, may cause some confusion.

Such advantages often become decisive factors when choosing siding for house cladding. The only issue is the installation technology, which should be discussed in more detail.

If you do not have experience in finishing work, best solution siding becomes, which has a number of advantages over other types of finishes:

There is no need for "wet" work (plastering, etc.).
Restrictions due to weather or temperature conditions set by the employee himself according to his own feelings.
To install the material does not require any special skills, ease of installation provides the possibility of self-plating at home.
The result of the work looks very impressive and lasts a very long time.

This article is step by step instructions for installation for teapots.

Siding is a sheathing material used for exterior decoration of buildings. It has the shape of oblong narrow strips with a longitudinal relief applied to them, imitating various options wooden building(most often) or, less commonly, masonry.

Strips (panels, lamellas) are equipped with special sides for fastening to a support on one side and for connecting to each other - on the other. The design allows you to collect canvases of any size from them.

Siding is assembled on site, which is convenient and practical. The panels are light in weight, so it is easy to lift and carry them. In principle, it is possible to work alone, but for large areas with long panels need help.

The birthplace of siding is Canada, where it was first produced.

The first samples were wooden, today there are different types of material:

(PVC, acrylic, etc.)

The most common plastic (PVC) and metal types siding with the best performance or the most successful combination of quality and price.

In addition, there are many profile options:

Timberblock.
etc.

Mounting direction:

Horizontal.
siding.

Some types allow installation in both directions at the request of the owner.

Developers are constantly adding the lineup, so there can be no exhaustive list, the list always remains open.

Siding kit

In addition to panels capable of forming only planes, additional elements (additions) are produced that serve to decorate the joints of different canvases at an angle or in the same plane, for finishing window or door openings, etc.

to standard types can be attributed:

simple and difficult angle(external and internal).
H-profile.
J-bar.
Starting bar.
finish plank.
Platband.
Soffit.
Circumferential profile.

All additional elements are fully consistent with the main panels in terms of material type, color or type of protective coating.

Attention! Sometimes, as a decoration, the extensions of another are used, contrasting color, which gives the skin an elegant and original look.

The choice of crates - which is better, wood or metal?

Lathing is a system of planks arranged in a certain order perpendicular to the direction of the panels and serving as a support for them. As a material for the crate, it is customary to use wooden blocks or metal drywall guides.

Disputes about that have been heard from the very first days of using the skin. Wooden planks have low thermal conductivity, while metal planks conduct heat very well and need to be insulated.

At the same time, wooden parts have a common disease - they are subject to warping, deformation during shrinkage and decay. The metal profile does not create such problems; it is protected from corrosion by a layer of galvanizing.

Another problem with wooden bars is curvature. Picking a perfectly straight piece from a stack of timber is a difficult task, as wood is highly susceptible to warping or screwing. The metal profile is almost perfectly straight.

Thus more good option to create the crate, a metal profile is presented, but the cavity formed by it should be taken into account and filled in parallel with the installation of the insulation.

Installation of the selected crate

The installation of the crate begins with the installation of the extreme strips (if you plan to install vertical siding- upper and lower). They are attached to the wall in the corners, the position is checked by a plumb line. Then a cord is pulled between the extreme strips (at least two), which serves to check the position of the intermediate strips of the crate and ensure the plane.

Intermediate strips are installed with a step that allows you to tightly lay insulation boards between them. To ensure a plane, pieces of wood, plywood, etc. should be placed under them in the right places.(for wooden crates) or adjust the height of the metal profile above the wall plane when using a direct (U-shaped) drywall hanger.

After installing the first layer of planks and carrying out intermediate operations, a counter-lattice is installed, which will directly serve as a support for the siding. It is installed perpendicular to the planks of the first layer (and, accordingly, to the siding panels), with a step that provides optimal fastening of the sheathing (40-60 cm, in some cases - 30-40 cm).

The control grill performs additional function providing a ventilation gap between the casing and the wall cake, which ensures the removal of steam a.

NOTE!

If it is not planned to install an external insulation, then it is mounted immediately carrier layer battens (perpendicular to siding panels).

Warming and waterproofing

During the installation of the crate, external wall insulation can be performed. As a heater, a material with a vapor permeability higher than that of the wall material is selected.. This moment is very important, otherwise water (condensate) will accumulate on the border of the two materials, which will sooner or later cause the destruction of the wall.

Therefore, the most preferred insulation will be slab mineral wool, which freely passes water vapor. To cut off the ingress of moisture from the outside, a layer of hydroprotection should be installed.. This is done at the stage of finishing the installation of the first layer of the crate and insulation.

A layer of a waterproof membrane is installed on top, a material that facilitates the removal of steam, but prevents the ingress of moisture from the outside. The counter-lattice is installed on top of the waterproofing layer.

Installation of the starting bar (J profiles)

The starting bar is the support for the bottom row of siding panels. To install it, you need to draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the house, which is 40 mm above the intended bottom edge of the panels. Then the starting bar is applied with the upper edge to this line and fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate.

CAREFULLY!

Self-tapping screws should not be tightened tightly; a small gap should be left for the bar to move freely. The self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the elongated holes, so that during temperature shifts the part can move and compensate for dimensional changes without deforming the skin plane. This rule applies to all siding elements.

The next bar is not fastened closely, but at a distance of 6 mm from the previous one to compensate for thermal expansion.

How is siding installed?

The siding panel is inserted with its lower edge into the lock of the starting bar, snapped into it, and the upper edge is fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate. The following panels are fastened in a similar way, the skin "grows" from the bottom up (or sideways if selected). vertical type siding).

Attention! In some cases, top-down installation is used. It is believed that this option is less successful due to the possibility of rainwater penetrating into the lining space, but in practice no problems have been found.

Installation of internal corner strips

The installation of the corners is carried out before the installation of the main panels, immediately after fixing the starting bar. The inner corner profile is fastened with the lower edge at the level of the starting bar, the density of the self-tapping screws is recommended to be 25-30 cm.

If the starting bar prevents the profile from being positioned in the right place, the nail strips should be cut from the corner profile to a length equal to the width of the starting profile plus an expansion gap.

If necessary, increase the corner strip, cut off the top nail strips by 30 mm and overlap the top one over the bottom one for proper water flow. The overlap is not more than 25 mm, so that the temperature gap is observed.

You can make a corner connection using a J-strip, which is cheaper than a corner one. This can be done with one plank, when it is tightly adjacent to the outer edge of the row of panels on one side, and the panels on the second side are installed in it.

The second option is to use two planks on each side of the corner, while there is a danger of water penetrating into the gap between the planks, since the absolute tightness of the connection cannot be achieved here, in addition, temperature gaps are necessary in any case.

Installation of external corner strips

External corner strips are installed in a similar way, adjusted for the element's reverse geometry. The same method of overlapping, temperature gaps are required, etc. As a replacement for a complex corner, you can use two J-bars located at the corners close to each other.

For outer corners, a simpler design method is possible - using a simple corner, which is installed on top of the panels. In this case, the siding is installed first without a corner, so that the junction of the planes is the most accurate, after which a simple corner is screwed on top. Often this option is the most preferable, because it is simpler and for unprepared people, this option seems to be optimal.

How to lengthen siding strips

If it is necessary to end-join the panels, an H-profile or a simple overlap joint can be used. The size of the overlap is 25 cm, for its implementation it is necessary to cut off the nail strip from the top and part of the lock from the bottom from one panel to the length of the overlap and plus a temperature gap of 12 mm. Overlapping is best done at random - in each row of panels on different places so as not to weaken the entire canvas.

H-profile installation

The installation of the H-profile is carried out simultaneously with the installation of the corner strips (immediately after the starting strip). The same rules apply as for corner profiles - trimming nail strips for joints and mandatory temperature gaps. The use of the H-profile makes the longitudinal joining of panels more aesthetic, allows you to immediately cut the required number of panels to the length for a given section.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

It starts immediately after the installation of the starting strip and the corner and H-profiles. Siding can be immediately cut to the desired length, not forgetting the need to leave temperature gaps, which for panels are 12 mm.

The starting bar has a lock, the same as the panels. The first lower strip is inserted into it until it is completely connected and fastened along the upper nail strip with self-tapping screws.

The usual rules for siding apply - the self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the oblong hole and loosely fixes the part, leaving room for free play. The next panel is attached in the same way. By itself, the process of creating a plane is simple and does not require special knowledge, except for those indicated.

Every 3 rows, a horizontal check is made and measures are taken to eliminate distortions if they are found.

Loose connections or other causes may interfere with correct position panels, causing slight distortion. If you do not make constant control, then by the end of the installation, the changes may become noticeable and the whole work will be spoiled. Therefore, periodic monitoring and correction of the accuracy of the location of the lamellas to the horizontal is necessary.

How to siding around windows and doorways

They are drawn up in almost the same ways, the only difference is the presence of rain tides on window openings. The method of tying the opening depends on the depth of planting the block in the plane of the wall.

For the design of openings that are in the same plane with the wall, platbands are used. They have grooves for the end placement of the siding, so the installation of the trim is done before installing the main panels.

If the openings have a depth of up to 20 cm, then a J-bar is used. It is installed on top finished panels, on the window frame around the perimeter it is necessary to fix the finishing bar.

At large depths of openings, sets of the same siding panels are used, cut off taking into account the temperature gap along the length of the slope and recruited according to the usual principle. A universal bar is installed along the perimeter of the window block, and a complex angle is mounted on the outer junction of the planes. In this case, it is also necessary to install extensions before mounting the main panels.

To finish the slopes, it is necessary to first install the crate on them, which is usually done during the construction of the main one, since the openings need to be insulated along with the plane of the walls. Regardless of the angle of the slope, the lathing of the openings is set perpendicular to the main one, and the angle is provided by the position of the finishing or universal strips.

Siding finish strip

The finishing bar forms the upper (final) edge of the last panel and fixes its position. installation is carried out almost simultaneously with the top panel. The plank is fastened strictly horizontally at the desired height, the nail plank on the last panel is cut off.

The panel with a cut edge, on which the locking profile remains, is inserted into the slot of the finishing bar and snaps into it. The shape of the profiles is such that the size of the required gap is observed, the lock securely fixes the panel in the plane of the web.

NOTE!

For correct installation the finishing strip and the last panel require an exact calculation made in advance, or the possibility of some level discrepancy if a separate pediment sheathing is planned.

Gable siding installation

Either in the same way as the facade, or using a vertical arrangement of siding panels in contrast to the main canvas. It will require a fairly accurate trim in length and at an angle.

A feature of the design is the need to provide a temperature gap in combination with trimming panels at an angle, at which errors are possible, so careful measurements will be required. It is recommended to start the installation from the back sides of the house, so that before moving to the front side there is some experience.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to install siding:

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself siding installation is a simple and quite affordable procedure that you can do yourself. The main condition is the looseness of fastening parts and compliance with temperature gaps, all other subtleties are comprehended intuitively along the way. To successfully complete the work, you should abandon the haste and act deliberately, then the result will become the pride of the owner of the house.

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