Install front panels. Do-it-yourself installation of facade panels. The order of installation of facade panels I-facade
The facade is the face of the house. If it is in an unsatisfactory condition: old, dilapidated, in need of repair, then living in such a house is inconvenient, and it is almost impossible to sell. For facade cladding, materials of various cost and quality are used.
natural stone and ceramic granite, it's expensive and quality materials not accessible to everyone. the foundation must be carefully prepared.
"Wet" finishing is a laborious and expensive process, limited in time by a warm period. Creating a textured plaster pattern is associated with additional difficulties and costs.
The way out is to decorate the house with facade panels.
Unlike natural stone or metal siding; facing the facade of the house with panels economical way repair. They are of two types:
- Single layer.
- Multilayer.
Made from polyvinyl chloride. Single-layer panels imitate brick or masonry, tile from expensive grades of basalt and granite.
Thanks to modern equipment, the drawing looks natural. Distinguish from a distance of several meters faux material from natural is almost impossible.
PVC panels are made with fillers that significantly increase performance characteristics material.
The faux leather is very strong and durable. The panels are made of non-combustible material, practically do not lose their shape under the influence of sunlight.
PVC wall panels can be mounted both on a clean base and on a frame with insulation.
Multilayer
Another name for a thermopanel. They should not be confused with. Sandwiches are used to build walls and partitions. Thermal panels are used only for cladding bearing walls, they cannot be used as a full-fledged building material. 
The multilayer panel consists of a solid insulation and a protective outer layer. For insulation, extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, foam glass, basalt mineral wool are used.
The protective and decorative layer must be durable, wear-resistant and beautiful. Thermal panels are covered with plaster on stone base, concrete-polymer, concrete-polymer monolithic finishing layer.
How to sheathe a house with facade panels with your own hands
Facade panels can be mounted in several different ways. The choice depends on several factors:
- Foundation condition. On a well-prepared wall, the panels are mounted without the use of glue or mounting foam on self-tapping dowels and anchors. If the base is uneven, then the panels are mounted on glue or construction foam. The method of mounting on the frame is also used. It consists in creating metal profiles or wooden slats even and solid foundation for installation of single-layer or multi-layer panels.
- On walls sheathed with insulation sheets, single-layer facade panels are installed only along the frame. This technology is called a ventilated facade. Between the insulation and the cladding there is a narrow layer of air. This is ventilation duct for ventilation with the inside of a suspended facade.
Installation is preceded by the calculation of the material and preparatory work
The calculation is made according to the sketch of the facade. A sweep is drawn on the sketch indicating all overall dimensions, the number of windows and doors. For an exact calculation, it is better to contact a sales consultant. In large stores, they are taught to quickly complete the calculation.
Preparatory work begins with the rehabilitation of the facade and the identification of problem areas. Then the surface is cleaned of the remnants of the old coating. Everything that is hung on the facade from the outside is dismantled. Large cracks and chips are embroidered and sealed with a cement-sand mortar.
If the facade is affected by a fungus or mold, then disinfection is carried out. Most effective way for etching - this is the impregnation of the surface with soil with copper sulphate.
Copper sulfate is poisonous. It is dangerous for the human body, so the work is carried out in a respirator and rubber gloves.
Do-it-yourself installation of facade thermal panels
They can be installed in two ways:
- Without glue.
- For glue.
Without glue
An absolutely level ground is required. One panel slides over the other and snaps onto a special lock. This method of installation reduces the overall time and laboriousness of the work.
Before fixing the thermal panels in any way, marking is performed. Via laser level or a level on the facade is determined by the horizon line. It may or may not coincide with the blind area line. If the lines match, then there will be no problems. The mark of the junction of the panel and the base is beaten off with a sandpaper.
If the house is on a hillock and the blind area is not horizontal, then the starting line is drawn parallel to the blind area. The second dimensional line is reflected along the horizon level, at a height equal to the size of the panel from the bottom point of the facade. Thus, cutting the bottom of the panels of the first row, the top goes strictly horizontally. 
The panels are cut with a grinder with a diamond wheel. Goggles are used to protect the eyes. The grinder cuts through only the protective coating. To cut the insulation, an ordinary hacksaw is used for wood.
The bottom mark is set starting profile. It is attached to the wall with dowel-screws.
Installation starts from the corner of the house. For fixation facade panels plate-shaped dowels with a large flat head are used. Under each dowel in the insulation, a shallow hole is drilled for the diameter of the head. So that after installation the dowel is flush with the insulation and does not interfere with the joint of the panels.
For additional fastening of the panels, self-tapping dowels are used. Under them, holes are drilled in the seams between the tiles. After installation, the traces of fastening can be easily matched in color to the wall.
After fixing the first panel, the second one joins it on the lock. Thus, the entire facade is tiled. External corners between the panels are closed with additional elements.
If they are not, then the corner ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. After the installation is completed, the joint is sealed with putty. To connect the elements, you do not need to press hard on them. If it does not work, then one of the panels is skewed or there is a tubercle on the wall. Both shortcomings are eliminated, continue installation.
On glue
Installation of panels on glue is relevant when the base is wavy with deviations of 10-30 mm in the horizontal or vertical plane. The glue acts as a leveling material. After finishing the facade, there are no air gaps between the wall and the panels.
Marking and sawing of facade thermal panels is carried out according to the algorithm for the dry method.
The starting profile is fixed along the lower horizontal line. It's a prop facade system. To improve the connection of the panel with the profile, it is applied to the shelf polyurethane foam. The first row of panels is mounted on the foam.
Installation starts from the bottom corner of the house. To install thermal panels, a special glue is used, which is purchased together with the cladding elements. If it is not there, then a dry mix for mounting foam or mineral insulation on a brick, concrete or aerated concrete base.
Glue thin layer applied to the entire surface of the panel with a notched trowel. For additional fastening, dish-shaped dowels are used. When joining the panels, it is necessary to ensure that the size of the seams between the tiles at the joints does not differ from the neighboring ones.
All joints of the place and the place of installation of dowel-screws are sealed with putty in the color of the surface.
It must be remembered that the material from which the wall is made affects the selection of insulation for the thermal panel. It is better to sheathe such porous structures as foam concrete, silicate blocks with thermal panels based on mineral heaters.
Good moisture wicking. For brick and concrete walls you can use a lining based on polystyrene foam.
Installation technology of external wall panels
We will talk about the construction of a facade of single-layer facing elements made of polyvinyl chloride. The panels are mounted on an uneven base on a frame made of galvanized metal profiles.
Mounted at almost any temperature. Installation is prohibited only in severe frosts, when the thermometer drops below -15 ° C. Facade cladding work consists of several stages:
- Training.
- Fastening of facade panels.
Training
Substrate preparation work must be completed prior to installation of the load-bearing frame. Extra elements are removed from the facade, such as external. Ebb and flow are removed from the windows. If the facade is wooden, then it must be treated with an antiseptic to inhibit the processes of decay and the development of fungus. If the facade is stone or concrete, then such processing is not necessary.
Facing without insulation does not provide. If planned, then wiring is carried out at the preparation stage.
Crate for mounting panels
The crate for the facade panels can be made of wood or U-shaped profile. The second option is preferable, since the galvanized profile does not corrode and does not collapse. It does not need additional protection.
On a flat base, it is allowed to mount the profile directly on a bare wall. If the facade is curved, then a frame is mounted under the facade panels.
Frame and load-bearing profiles. With the help of brackets, the frame is leveled. The profile is mounted on a pre-marked surface of the facade. Marking is carried out using a laser level and a measuring tape
First horizontal element installed 50 mm from the ground. Attached to it starting bar for facade panels. The installation step of the vertical guides is 500-600 mm, and the horizontal ones depend on the height of the cladding element. Horizontal guides are made of J-profile. For fastening, self-tapping dowels with a pitch of 300-400 mm are used.
Facade panel fasteners
Installation of facade panels starts from the bottom corner strictly from left to right and from top to bottom. The first row is installed on the starting bar. The left end, which goes to the corner, is cut exactly at a right angle.
Then it is fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the nail holes and the body of the wall. The second panel is connected to the first one up to the junction of the temperature compensators and fixed in the same way. To increase the strength of the structure, the panels can be glued to the starting bar with mounting foam.
The device of the facade of single-layer and multi-layer panels can be done by hand. The work is not particularly difficult, subject to the rules and technologies.
Facade panels will be complemented by a wide range of additional elements that allow you to hide small flaws of a novice installer.
Installation of facade panels is perhaps the most important stage in finishing your home. From correct installation depends not only on the appearance and protection of the main material of the structure, but also on the guarantee. We remind you that 50 years of service can only be ensured if the facade panels are correctly installed. Alas, some homeowners, trying to save money, entrust the installation to non-professional workers, who often do not even read specially developed recommendations for the installation of facade panels. As a result, there are not provided thermal gaps, panels tightly screwed to the facade, which do not have the ability to expand and contract under the influence of temperatures. One of the most common mistakes in the installation of facade panels is the neglect of creating a crate.
Pay attention again! Mounting wall panels- the most important stage of work on your home. Read the installation instructions carefully. Use original profiles and tools and materials recommended by the manufacturer.
Preparation of the wall surface for installation and installation of the crate
Döcke-R façade panels can be installed at any time of the year, with the exception of severe frosts(temperature below -15˚С). The panels are installed on any buildings with any type of walls, on buildings under construction, built and operated for a long time. All facade work must be completed before the installation of facade panels.Install wind and vapor barrier, if provided by the project. If you plan to install additional thermal insulation, mount an additional crate for insulation.
The crate for facade panels can be wooden (in this case, it must be pre-treated with special bioprotective compounds) or from special galvanized profiles intended for facade work.
The crate is installed vertically / horizontally. The horizontal lathing is installed under the starting profile, J-profile, horizontal panel fastening points. The vertical lathing is installed at the corners and vertical points of fastening of the panels. The step of the crate is determined based on the dimensions of the installed panels. All installed crate must provide a flat surface.
Basic installation rules
Due to the fact that facade panels tend to expand and contract with temperature changes, the following rules must be followed during installation: - self-tapping screws are screwed strictly horizontally in the center of the nail hole;
- be sure to leave a small gap between the screw head and the panel / profile (no more than 1 mm);
- insert one panel into another until it stops, providing a guaranteed thermal gap;
- installation should be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15˚С.
Setting the start profile
In order to proceed with the installation of panels, it is necessary to measure the basement of the building "to the horizon", determining the lowest and highest points of the wall above the horizon. This can be done using the water level. After the water in the level will take horizontal position, mark it with a pencil on the wall. This is done with each of the corners of the building, bypassing it around the perimeter. You must come to the same point from which you started. From pencil marks, measure the distance to the bottom of the wall.
If the distance from the marks to the ground is different, the foundation is uneven. In this case, with small slopes, it is better to make a blind area parallel to the previously measured horizontal line and mount the starting profiles, as described above. If this is not possible, then there is no need for a start profile in these places. Then it is necessary to determine at what height it is better to place the second row of panels.
From this level, mark the required size and cut the bottom of the panels to the desired size. Install them by fixing them in the upper horizontal and side vertical holes. If necessary, you can make additional nail holes, similar to the factory ones in the bottom of the panels. It is better to do this in the places of the "seam" so that the self-tapping screw is less noticeable.
Attention! It is impossible to fix the panel with a self-tapping screw by screwing it directly into the panel (outside the nail hole), since over time this can lead to deformation of the product.
Installation of the universal J-profile
Using the facade J-profile in the finishing of the inner corner:
- Prepare two facade J-profiles of the required length, install them in the inner corner of the building.
- Install a self-tapping screw in the upper part of the upper nail hole, the remaining self-tapping screws are installed in the center of the nail holes. The installation step should be 150-200 mm.
Using the facade J-profile as a edging for the upper part of the panels:
- To complete the installation of the panels, fasten façade J-profile on the crate in top point installation (in case of finishing basement siding pediment - under the overhang of the roof).
- Fasten the facade J-profile in the same way as the installation of all used system elements. In order to start the universal J-profile panel, it is enough to bend it.
Installation of Döcke-R facade panels
If you decide to use for cladding external walls facade panels of your home, you have made the right choice.
Main advantages
Before you install the facade panels with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of the work. It is important to take into account the characteristics of this finishing material, which is created on the basis of polymers using casting technology. During the production process, the panels are subjected to pressure. They are able to imitate a variety of textures, natural materials, which fit well into any exterior. Among the additional advantages, expert reviews highlight durability: the service life of such a finish is 50 years or more. Products do not bend, as they have a stiffener. This ensures the geometric stability of the entire surface during installation and during further operation. The finish is resistant to wind loads and mechanical deformation. It is impossible not to highlight the environmental friendliness, which involves the use insulation material in tandem with decoration. In the course of the installation work technology is to be used. At the same time, the outer walls breathe, thanks to which a comfortable microclimate is created inside the building. Judging by customer reviews, you can count on easy installation, because the material is quite light and does not exert additional load on the foundation. On sale you can find a wide range of products that will allow you to choose your preferred color scheme. In the process of care, the finish is not at all demanding, and upon purchase, you will be pleasantly surprised by the democratic cost.
Work technology
The installation instructions for the facade panels were drawn up taking into account the need for sawing the products, for which you need to use a saw instead, which has small teeth. May be needed electric jigsaw, knife, as well as scissors designed for working on metal. During the marking, you will use a plumb line, tape measure, pencil, level, coated cord and square. For installation work, a screwdriver and a screwdriver are useful.
Facade preparation
The instruction for the installation of facade panels provides for the need for preparatory work. These manipulations can be carried out completely at any time of the year, however, the temperature external environment it should not be lower than -15 degrees. As a material for the crate, you can use galvanized or wood. The distance between the elements is determined by the dimensions of the panels. The crate must be mounted vertically if the panels are installed horizontally, and vice versa.
Basic rules for installation
The instruction for the installation of facade panels provides for the use of self-tapping screws, which are installed in the central part of the technological hole, while you need to monitor the horizontal position of the element. There should be a small distance between the fastener head and the panel surface, the width of which is 1 millimeter. It is important to install products into each other, leaving a gap. This will provide a thermal gap.
Installation of starting bars
During the work, you must follow the installation instructions for the facade panels. With the help you need to measure the basement of the building around the perimeter. If the foundation is perfectly flat, then starting corner elements must be mounted in the corners. Starting bars are set between them according to the level. If the foundation is not even, then with a slight slope it is important to make a blind area, which should be parallel to the horizontal line. At the next stage, starting profiles are set, they should be discarded if the slope is too large. In this case, the height of the next row of products is determined. From this level, it is important to set aside the required size, and adjust the lower part of the profile so that it has certain dimensions. Facade panels should be installed by fixing into the vertical horizontal and side upper holes of the fasteners. You can make additional holes, which are most often located in the seam. It is not worth screwing the fasteners outside the holes, it is impossible to do this directly in the panel, as this can cause irreversible deformation.
Installing a universal j-profile
How is it carried out if, for example, FineBer facade panels are used, installation? You should know the installation instructions before starting work. The panels are used in tandem with j-profiles when finishing the joint of the walls located inside. To do this, use the two mentioned elements of the desired length, they are installed in the inner corner. In the hole that is located on top, the self-tapping screw must be screwed in at the top. The remaining screws are installed in the central part. The distance should be 200 millimeters. J-profile is used as a border for the upper part of the profiles. At the same time, its fastening is carried out on the crate, at the top point, or under roof overhang what is done to complete the finish. In order to bring such a profile into the slab, it must be bent.
Installation instructions for Deke facade panels provide for work from the bottom up, as well as from left to right. The lower part of the plate must be installed on the starting profile, and then fixed with self-tapping screws. The next element is installed on the start profile, and then it is inserted into the previous panel. The old slab is fixed to the crate, the device of all subsequent profiles is carried out according to the technology that was described above. Installation instructions for facade panels "Alta-Profile" are compiled taking into account the generally accepted technology. The introduction of the last plate is carried out after its preliminary cutting to required size. After the first row is ready, you can proceed to the second.
One of the most practical ways facade finishing is paneling. Their main advantage is ease of installation, which means that Finishing work everyone can. Facade panels perfectly protect the walls from wind and rain, contribute to the preservation of heat in the house, and at the same time have a very attractive aesthetic appearance.
Now on sale there are a lot of cladding panels and slabs from the most different materials. Siding is very popular, the demand for polymer, fiber cement and porcelain stoneware slabs is growing. There are even options made of wood, with enhanced protective properties.
| Name | Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Production material - sheet aluminum, galvanized steel. Base thickness 0.5-0.6 mm, panel width 226 mm. As protective coating polyester is used. The service life is about 30 years. The panels are fireproof, waterproof, do not fade in the sun. |
| Production material - polyvinyl chloride. Panel width 200-250 mm, base thickness 1.2 mm. The panels are waterproof, resistant to decay, non-toxic, do not fade in the sun. The service life is about 30 years. Great variety in color and texture, imitation of natural materials. |
| Polyurethane foam core and outer layer clinker tiles. Panel thickness from 30 to 100 mm, low water absorption, high frost resistance, resistance to aggressive substances and rot. Differs in low heat conductivity, term of operation till 50 years. |
| Production material - cement with the addition of cellulose fibers and mineral fillers. Panel thickness 8-12 mm, the average size 1220x2500 mm. The service life is about 20 years, the panels are resistant to decay, sudden temperature changes, and have low thermal conductivity. |
| Plates with a thickness of 7-30 mm, sizes from 300x300 mm to 600x1200 mm. Durable frost-resistant material, non-flammable, environmentally friendly. The service life is more than 50 years, it is undemanding in care. The only drawback of such plates is their heavy weight, therefore, when facing the facade, one cannot do without a strong and reliable frame. |
| Facade panels from natural wood thickness 18-45 mm. Wood undergoes a special treatment, as a result of which it becomes resistant to moisture, decay, and ultraviolet radiation. In addition, the combustibility of the material is reduced. The disadvantages include the high cost of wood and a shorter service life compared to other types of panels. |
| The panel consists of two sheets of metal and a thin layer of polyethylene between them. The metal has an additional anti-corrosion coating. The thickness of the panels is from 3 to 6 mm, the service life is up to 20 years. The material does not fade in the sun, does not require maintenance, is highly resistant to damage and weathering. |
| Production material - impact-resistant glass up to 6 mm thick. The panel can be transparent, matte, mirror, with patterns and grainy texture. The material is durable, weather resistant, very attractive. Disadvantages: high cost, complexity of installation. |
Facade cladding technology with siding
The most popular finishing material for facades is siding. It is lightweight and easy to attach thanks to castle system does not require special skills and equipment.
The cladding process consists of four stages: preparing the walls, installing the battens, insulating the facade and fixing the panels themselves. For unheated buildings, insulation is not used. The durability of the coating and the appearance of the facade depend on the quality of surface preparation.
All work can be done independently in 2-4 days, depending on the area of the walls. But first you need to correctly calculate the amount of material, so as not to overpay too much, and in the process of work not to be interrupted to purchase the missing material.
We calculate the amount of material
So, for calculations, you will need a schematic drawing of the building with all the main parameters - the height, width and length of the building, the dimensions of the openings (window / door). After measurements are taken, determine total area sheathed surfaces: for this, first calculate the area of \u200b\u200beach wall separately and summarize the resulting numbers. Then take away the total area of windows and doors.
For example, you need to clad a bath 3x4 m, 2.5 m high, with two windows 0.6x0.9 m and a door 0.7x1.8 m. The area of the side wall is equal to
- 3x2.5= 7.5 m2,
- facade area - 4x2.5 = 10 m2.
Total wall area:
- 7.5 + 7.5 + 10 + 10 = 35 m2.
Now, in the same way, we calculate the total area of \u200b\u200bwindows and doors:
- 0.6x0.9 = 0.54 m2 (window);
- 0.7x1.8 = 2.5 m2 (door);
- 0.54x2 + 2.5 \u003d 3.58 m2 - the total area of \u200b\u200bopenings.
Subtract the second value from the first value and get the size of the working area:
- 35 - 3.58 = 31.42 m2.
Now it remains to divide the resulting value by the area of \u200b\u200bone panel. Usually it is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, next to other siding parameters.
Siding - dimensions
For example, let's take Block House vinyl siding: its width is 0.232 m, length is 3.66 m, area is 0.85 m2. We divide 31.42 by 0.85 and get the number of panels - 37 pieces. Since waste is inevitable in the process of work, the material must be taken with a margin - 7-10%. There are 10 panels in a pack, so for cladding you need to buy 4 packs of siding, and the extra three panels will just be that supply.
Starting profile, which is used for fastening lower tier panels, measured in running meters, therefore, for calculations it is enough to know the length of the perimeter of the bath. In our case, this is 14 m (3+3+4+4). Since the profile is overlapped, you need to add another 0.5-0.7 m to the length of the docking sections and 30-40 cm to the waste when fitting.
Corner profiles are also measured in linear meters, and usually have a length of 3 m. For buildings of complex configuration, two types of profiles are needed - for external and internal corners. To calculate the number of elements, the height of the building should be multiplied by the number of corners and divided by three. For example, if a bath with a height of 2.5 has rectangular shape, then the total length of the corner profiles is 10 m. Dividing by the length of one profile, we get 3.3, that is, you will need 3 whole profiles and a piece 30 cm long. This means you need to purchase 4 profiles for external corners. Elements for internal corners are calculated separately according to the same principle.
To join the panels, you will need H-shaped and T-shaped connecting profiles.
They are produced in lengths of 3 m, calculated individually. Since the length of the siding does not exceed 3.8 m, it is not difficult to determine the junction of the panels. Mark these sections on the diagram and calculate how many profiles you need to connect along the entire height of the facade.
Finishing strips are fixed horizontally above and below window openings, therefore, it will not be difficult to calculate their number, as well as the number of window and door trims. The dimensions of these elements are necessarily indicated in the price lists and catalogs of the manufacturer, and it will not be difficult to select the necessary components for the panels if there are measurements of the building.
For convenience, you can use the online calculator, this will provide more accurate calculations and save time.
Surface preparation
The wall under the cladding must be strong, without cracks and breaks. Any defects reduce the strength and durability of the skin, and therefore preliminary preparation surface is very important. First, remove the trim from windows and doors, then remove everything that protrudes beyond the plane of the wall - decorative elements, lighting.
Carefully inspect the walls, basement, corners, sweep the lower part of the building around the entire perimeter with a broom. Sometimes small cracks and chips can hide under a layer of dust and dirt on the base. Peeling plaster must be scraped off with a spatula so that it does not interfere with the snug fit of the crate. Large cracks are embroidered along the length and sealed with a cement solution, small ones are simply overwritten with the same solution.
If the walls are wooden, be sure to check the integrity of the logs, especially the lower rows. It is recommended to caulk dried crowns, treat the tree with an antiseptic. Rotten areas need to be replaced, because the fungus will develop under the skin, damaging everything large area walls. If the wood is in good condition, simply prime the entire surface.
Processing technology wooden house| Home treatment with antiseptic
Crate. Installation instructions
The crate for fastening siding panels can be made of metal or wood. In the first case, it is recommended to use a galvanized profile SD-60, in the second - a dry bar 30x40 mm or 50x60 mm. For fastening the frame elements, additional metal suspensions will be needed. U-shaped, self-tapping screws and dowels (if the walls are concrete or brick).
First you need to determine how the panels will be located - horizontally or vertically. The location of the profiles depends on this: they must be perpendicular to the siding panels. That is, with horizontal sheathing, we fasten the frame profile vertically on the walls, and vice versa. For example, consider the horizontal skin.
Step 1. Make markings on the walls: step back from the corner 5-7 cm and draw a vertical line along the entire height of the wall. Then they retreat 40 cm and again draw a vertical, and so on until the end of the wall. The extreme line should be at a distance of no more than 5 cm from the corner. The rest of the walls are marked in the same way.
Step 2 Perforated hangers are screwed to the wall along the marked lines, which are also used for drywall profiles. Perforated elements must be fixed in a checkerboard pattern with a gap of 40 cm. K wooden wall suspensions are screwed with self-tapping screws, to concrete / brick - with dowels, having previously laid the paronite gasket in the space between the suspension and the wall. This will avoid the formation of cold bridges.
Step 3 Now you need to lay the insulation. Plates are perfect for this. mineral wool 50 mm thick. The first layer is tightly laid between the racks of the frame, the second is fixed over the profiles. Plates are fixed to the wall with dowels-fungi. The ears of the suspensions must be passed through the insulation, cutting small holes in the plates. Thermal insulation must be fixed around the entire perimeter of the building.
Step 4 A windproof membrane is pulled over the thermal insulation, through which the protruding edges of the suspensions are also threaded. The membrane is fastened with an overlap, at the joints it is fixed with construction tape.
Step 5 Control grid. A horizontal narrow profile is fixed along the bottom of the wall, along the base, and along the top, into which the ends will be inserted uprights frame. Both profiles must be strictly in the same plane. Further, at the corners of the wall, extreme profiles are attached to the suspensions, screwed with self-tapping screws. A cord is pulled between the profiles to align the plane of the future frame. After that, all other vertical profiles are screwed, horizontal jumpers are installed in the upper and lower parts of the window opening. At the junction of the planks, the frame is also strengthened with horizontal jumpers with a vertical step of 40 cm.
Step 6 The racks of the crate at the corners need to be connected to each other: for this, they take a segment of the same profile, cut it into pieces 15-25 cm long, bend them in the middle at a right angle, and then apply an overlap to corner posts frame and fixed with screws. The distance between the fasteners is 40 cm. Thus, all corners of the crate are strengthened.
The installation of a wooden crate is carried out in almost the same way: the timber is cut along the height of the wall, markings are made for attaching the brackets. Next, the bars are set according to the level and screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of 40-60 cm. The insulation is inserted between the cells of the crate. If you do not plan to use a heater, the beam can be fixed not to the brackets, but directly to the wall, leveling the frame using mounting wedges.
Video - Mounting the frame for siding
Facade cladding with siding
When the crate is ready, you can proceed with the installation of panels. You need to start with the installation of starting strips, corner elements and framing details for openings.
Step 1. The lowest point of the wall is determined and the horizon is set with the help of a water level, marking with a pencil in each corner of the building. Next, measure the width of the starting bar and note this distance from the bottom point of the corner up. To simplify the markup, you can drive a nail in one of the corners at the desired height and tie it with a strong thread. Going to the next corner, they align the level horizontally, drive in a nail again and pull the thread. As a result, a nail will be driven in in each corner, and a thread will be pulled along the perimeter at the desired level.
Step 2 The starting bar is applied to the marking with the upper edge and fixed with self-tapping screws every 35-40 cm. The ends of adjacent bars are fixed at a distance of 5 mm from each other, this is a prerequisite for high-quality installation.
The starting bar is mounted around the entire perimeter of the sheathed surface. When its installation is completed, you can attach the corner elements.
Step 3 The corner profile must be located strictly vertically. Its lower edge is lowered 8 mm below the starting bar, the upper cut is 6 mm below the eaves. Screw it with self-tapping screws on both sides of the corner, in increments of 40 cm.
Step 4 Next, they begin to finish the openings: around the perimeter of the windows, the starting strips are screwed so that their corners do not touch. Each platband is cut along the edges at an angle of 45 degrees, and installed on top of the starting bar. The sections are combined with each other, leaving a smooth, neat joint without gaps. In the same way, make out the doorway.
Step 5 Now you can put cladding panels. Start from the bottom - from the starting bar. The panel is applied to the wall, the lower edge is inserted into the bar and the horizontal is checked with a level. If the first panel lies unevenly, all subsequent cladding will also be skewed, and it will not work to align it during installation. After making sure that the panel is positioned correctly, screw the screws into the holes and install the next element. The ends of the facing strips lead into the corner profiles or between the corner and H-shaped profile.
The fastening step with self-tapping screws is 40 cm, after installation, each part must be moved from side to side. If the panel moves with difficulty or does not move at all, the fasteners should be loosened. Too tight connection contributes to the deformation of the web and the formation of a wavy surface.
Step 6 Before laying the top row, you need to fix the finishing bar.
It is located at the very top of the wall horizontally, fixed, like other elements, with self-tapping screws. Next, measure the remaining space between the panel and the plank, and cut the siding for the top row according to the measurements. The cut edge is brought under the fold of the plank after fastening with the penultimate row.
The final siding sheet is cut to size and fastened without self-tapping screws - from below to the lock behind the previous panel, from above it is inserted into the finishing bar
Pediment sheathing
Very often, when facing the facade, they sheathe siding and the pediment. So the structure looks more neat and aesthetically pleasing. The process of sheathing is quite simple, although you have to work at height. Before starting work, install reliable strong scaffolding to protect yourself from falling.
Step 1. Using a level, mark up a triangular-shaped frame. Next, two guide strips are attached to the sides along the roof overhang, a vertical profile is screwed on the sides of the doorway in the attic.
Step 2 The opening is reinforced with horizontal lintels in the upper and lower parts. The profile is cut along the height of the pediment and attached to the base with suspensions in increments of 40 cm. In the lower part, the profiles are reinforced with a horizontal bar. All elements of the crate should be located in the same plane.
Step 3 An ebb for the pediment is installed on the press washers, the sheets of metal are overlapped by 10-15 cm. Then the starting strips are screwed into doorway and slats above the tide.
Step 4 Siding panels are cut so that on one side the cut is transverse, and on the other at an angle. Since the pediment has a triangular shape, the ends of the panels must correspond to it. The panels are fixed in the manner described above, trying to accurately align the seams on both sides of the doorway. At the edges, be sure to leave gaps between the elements for expansion.
Step 5 After fixing the siding panels, the roof overhangs are hemmed on both sides and the eaves. Here the panels are located not along, but across, so the skin looks more attractive.
The cuts on the edges are closed with wind strips, which on the one hand are superimposed on roofing and fastened with self-tapping screws with press washers.
Video - Gable sheathing (part 1)
Video - Gable sheathing (part 2)
On this, the facade cladding is considered complete. Properly performed installation will provide such a sheathing with durability and aesthetic appearance, as well as additional protection the walls of the house. It is not difficult to take care of the siding: dust and any dirt can be easily washed off with ordinary water. Other types of facade panels are mounted in a similar way: the surface is prepared, metal or wooden frame, the casing is attached. Of course, each material has its own characteristics, so you should first study all the nuances of the lining in order to avoid annoying mistakes in the work.
Video - Cladding the facade with panels
Installation instructions for facade panels
(basement siding)
Application of facade panels and auxiliary profiles to them
facade panels are intended for facing of a socle and all facade of the building. With the help of facade panels, you can emphasize individual elements of the facade (columns, windows, porch, etc.).
starting bar used to fix the first row of facade panels.
outside corner used for joining facade panels at external corners.
J-profile used for decorating internal corners, framing window and doorways. You can use the J-profile as a finishing element.
Border
used to design the transition zone of the basement of the building to the main part of the facade. Can be used to decorate interior corners and frame window and door openings. It is not recommended to use a border as a finishing (final) element.
Calculation of the need for facade panelsfineber, auxiliary profiles to them and fixing material
Calculation of the number of facade panels
Find the total area that needs to be lined with facade panels, then subtract the sum of the areas of doors and windows from the sum of the areas of the walls of the house. It is recommended to add 10% to the resulting area for overlaps and cuts. If the building has a complex architectural configuration, it is recommended to add 15% to the resulting area. Divide the resulting figure by 4.55 (so many square meters are in one package of stone and brick panels) or 4.52 (so many square meters are in one package of slate panels).
Calculation of the number of starting bars
Calculate the perimeter of the building, subtract the sum of the door widths from the resulting figure and divide by 3 m (the length of the starting bar). It is recommended to add 5% to the result obtained for overlaps and cuts.
Calculation of the number of external corners
The sum of the heights of the outer corners of the building divided by 0.45 m (height working surface corner element). It is recommended to add 5% to the result obtained for overlaps and cuts.
Quantity calculation J -profile
When using it to design internal corners, you need to multiply the heights of the internal corners of the building by 2 and divide by 3 m (the length of the J-profile). When using a J-profile as a finishing element, you need to divide the sum of the lengths of the walls by 3 m. When using it to frame window and door openings, divide the sum of the perimeters of windows and doors by 3 m (windows are measured on four sides, doorways - on three sides except for the bottom width). It is recommended to add 5% to the result obtained for overlaps and cuts.
Calculation of the amount of curb
When using it to design internal corners, you need to divide the sum of the heights of the internal corners of the building by 0.517 m (curb length). When using a border to frame window and door openings, divide the sum of the perimeters of windows and doors by 0.517 m (windows are measured on four sides, doorways - on three sides, except for the lower width). It is recommended to add 5% to the result obtained for overlaps and cuts.
Calculation of the number of fasteners
At least 5 fasteners are required per panel. At the corner element - at least four. On the curb - at least two. On the starting bar you need 10 pieces - at the rate of: one mount for every 30 cm.
Note : round the result up
Tools and fasteners required for the installation of facade panels
The following tools are used for mounting facade panels: hammer, tape measure, level, hacksaw with a fine tooth, circular saw, drill, screwdriver, building hair dryer(if necessary).
The following fasteners are used for the installation of facade panels: galvanized nails or self-tapping screws with a countersunk head at least 30 mm long, leg diameter - 3-4 mm, head diameter - 6-8 mm.
Wall preparation and framing
Installation of facade panels is carried out on a wooden crate with a moisture content of not more than 15-20%, impregnated with fire-resistant and antiseptic compounds. The recommended cross-section of the lathing bars is 45x30 mm. For the installation of external corners, the laths of the battens are installed vertically at a distance of 10 cm from each external corner of the building.
Between the vertical laths of the lathing for mounting the panels, horizontal ones are installed, with the recommended distance between the bottom lines of the main laths - 44 cm.
All laths of the crate must provide a flat surface in the same plane.
Facade installation FineBer panels and auxiliary profiles to them
General provisions
Installation of panels on the walls of the building should be done horizontally, working from left to right, from bottom to top (Fig. 1). It is recommended that you complete the installation of panels on one wall before moving on to the next.
Facade panels and auxiliary profiles for them change linear dimensions when the temperature changes. In this regard, it is necessary to leave a distance between the vertical auxiliary profiles and the ends of the panels (when mounting in summer time- a gap of 2-3 mm, in minus temperature- 4-5 mm).
A self-tapping screw or nail is fixed in the center of the perforation hole. The head of the fastener should barely touch the panel, allowing it to move with temperature fluctuations. All fasteners are installed strictly perpendicular to the panel. Slopes and bends of fasteners are not allowed (Fig. 2).
When installing facade panels and auxiliary profiles to them in sub-zero temperatures (not lower than -10°C), it is necessary to keep all elements warm for 10 hours.
The elements of the facade panels are cut using a hacksaw with a fine tooth or circular saw(the disc must be with fine teeth set in reverse side from the panel). It is necessary to start cutting the panel from the side of the perforations (Fig. 1).
Vertically arranged auxiliary profiles are attached as follows: the first fastener installed in upper part upper perforation, the rest - in the center of the perforations (Fig. 2).
With an uneven foundation line, the front panels of the lower row are cut off from below. In this case, the starting bar is not installed, and the bottom of the panel is fastened with nails or self-tapping screws through drilled oval holes in the panel seams. The drilled holes should be the same as the perforated holes for fasteners.
Installation sequence of FineBer facade panels and auxiliary profiles for them
Installing the starting bar
The starting bar is installed strictly horizontally at the very bottom of the wall at a distance of 10 cm from the corner of the building (Fig. 1). The level checks that the bar is installed evenly and horizontally. The line of attachment of the starting bar should go at the same level around the entire perimeter of the building. The starting bar is attached every 30 cm.
Outside corner setting
The first outside corner is set to the left corner of the wall. The bottom edge of the outer corner of the first row should be flush with the bottom edge of the starting bar. The outer corner is fastened as follows: the first fastener is installed in the upper part of the upper perforation, the rest - in the center of the perforations. It is not recommended to mount more than two outer corners at the same time.
Panel installation
The first panel is inserted into the starting bar and slides into the groove of the outer corner with a gap of 2-3 mm (4-5 mm when mounted in sub-zero temperatures, but not below -10°C). All L-shaped locks on back side the panels must be snapped onto the start bar.
The edge of the panel that enters the groove of the corner element must be cut at a right angle. It is necessary to cut the first and last panels in a row (Fig. 1). It is recommended to assemble the panels in a row without fixing them in order to mark the cutting lines. The last panel in the row should not be shorter than 30 cm.
Facade panels are attached to the crate through holes located in the second row from the top (Fig. 3).
Installing the last panel in a row
The penultimate panel is fixed to one fastener on the left side, so that it can be bent right side. Next, the last panel is inserted into the groove of the corner element. The panels are folded away from the wall, joined and, by pressing on the connecting seam, move towards the wall. After that, the panels are fixed permanently.
Installing the next rows
For the installation of the next rows, the top panel is installed on the bottom and slides to the left, connecting with the previous one.
Installing a J-profile (or curb)
When making internal corners, the J-profile (or curb) is installed according to the drawing (Fig. 4, 5).
Decoration of window and door openings: first, the J-profile (curb) is installed on the sides of the window or door opening. Then the J-profile (curb) is installed on the top of the window or door opening so that the end edges of the J-profile protrude by a distance equal to the width of the J-profiles (curbs) installed on the sides. First, it is necessary to make cuts in the upper and lower J-profile (Fig. 6).
When using a J-profile as a finishing element, a part with perforated mounting holes must be cut off on the panel included in the profile groove (Fig. 7).
Docking facade panels with J-profile should be carried out in compliance with a small temperature gap.
Curb installation
The border is installed on the panel at the point of separation of the basement and the main facade of the building and is attached to the wall (Fig. 8).
Further, when finishing the entire building with facade panels, the next row of panels is installed on the curb. When finishing the main facade vinyl siding A starting strip of vinyl siding is attached over the perforations of the curb.
Installation additional elements
Fastening of additional elements (shutters, canopy, etc.) over the mounted panels should be carried out to the crate through a specially drilled holes larger diameter than the diameter of the leg of the fastener (Fig. 9).