Finishing a wooden house: technology for self-realization. Exterior decoration of a wooden house: the choice of material and application technology How to beat the internal corners of a log house

Finishing the siding of a log house (log house): features, recommendations and our experience

If you are a happy (hopefully) owner log house, then you know that these houses are special, and when protecting such a house from the weather with "vinyl armor", this must be taken into account.

In this article, we will look at what are the main differences between round timber house siding, and what you should pay attention to.

Why siding a log house

A wooden house, in addition to its undeniable advantages, has a number of disadvantages.

It's cold in the house

The felling, like log house, consists of "crowns" - horizontally stacked tree trunks (logs or beams).

Because of this, the thickness of the wall turns out to be uneven: in the middle of the crown it is maximum, in the place where the crowns are connected to each other (between the logs) - it is minimal.

Heat is like water: it flows where there is the least resistance. Therefore, the thermal conductivity of the wall is determined by the thermal conductivity of the "coldest" section.

In a house made of logs, there are exactly as many such sections as there are crowns that make up a wall. The thicker the log, the fewer crowns. The thinner, the more.

If we take the most common thickness of a log cabin (25 cm), it turns out that a wall 2.5 m high will consist of 14 crowns (including a bowl in each crown).

Even if your log house was made by masters of their craft, it is still impossible to achieve perfect contact between the crowns. To reduce heat loss in the cracks between the logs, the house is insulated with interventional insulation and the cracks that formed during the shrinkage of the house are caulked.

But, whatever one may say, it is impossible to solve the problem of cracks completely. That's why log house, like timber, lose heat much more than, for example, frame.

If the house loses heat, then it must be insulated, otherwise it will only be warm inside in summer. And the simplest and effective method to insulate a log wall is to mount the insulation from the outside and cover it with siding.

House "lost view"

Log - very beautiful material. Of course, there will be people who disagree with this, but there are fewer of them than those who agree.

A new and fresh log house looks great: golden yellow trunks, a natural wood pattern that is pleasing to the eye.

But if the house has stood for 20-30 years, then its appearance is no longer so pleasing: somewhere it has turned black, somewhere it has turned green, somewhere dust has eaten into the wood.

When a tree is alive, it is covered with bark, and its vitality helps to fight against external influences. But when it is sawn down and "undressed", it becomes defenseless against the change of seasons, rain, sun and dust.

Therefore, the old log cabin looks no longer so festive and pleasant, and does not please the eye. I want something to close it.

And again comes to your aid vinyl siding, which quickly and easily solves this problem.

Exterior cladding increases the life of the house

A tree devoid of natural protection quickly becomes unusable. And if you want your log house to serve you longer, you will have to help it.

In order to increase the service life of a log house, you need to take care of it: special formulations outside, caulk cracks, immediately remove fungus and mold.

This is not the most pleasant job, and it requires an investment of time and effort.

Another way is to cover the house with "vinyl armor", which will protect it from bad weather and ultraviolet radiation.

The main advantage of such protection is that you do not need to follow it: you sew it and forget it.

In addition, if the skin is professionally mounted, it will provide all the necessary conditions: protection against external influences and proper ventilation outer surface.

This will make your home last longer.

Why do some people think that a log cabin cannot be sheathed with siding

Among lovers wooden houses, as well as builders of log cabins, it is widely believed that it is impossible to sheathe a log house with siding.

Usually they say that "the log under the siding does not breathe, therefore it rots."

And this is true if the people who install the siding are not tech savvy.

Properly installed siding provides all the necessary ventilation for any house: log, timber, aerated concrete or frame.

In order for the house to "breathe", it is necessary to follow the technology: order and correct fastening membranes and insulation, as well as a ventilated gap under the siding.

From our experience of working with vinyl panels since 2009, we can responsibly declare: a log house, correctly sheathed with siding, does not rot and lasts longer.

What is the main difference between the walls of a log house when finishing with siding

The surface of the log house is uneven. Of course, if your house is not built from a gun carriage, hewn on both sides. But then it’s more suitable for you, because the walls of the carriage during the installation of siding behave like log house.

The surface of the "round timber" is all made up of waves, and this distinguishes it from other materials. It is more difficult to attach insulation and membranes to it than to a flat surface.

There are no more differences. Everything is the same: films, frame, panels and accessories.

Features of installing siding on the walls of a log house

Due to the unevenness of the wall, there are a number of features for mounting the frame and insulation if the walls of your house are insulated.

Let's take a look at the most basic features so you know what to look for when ordering cladding for your home.

Mounting the frame on a log wall

Due to the wavy surface of the wall, installing the frame on which the vinyl panels will be attached becomes more difficult.

Logs in the crowns of your log house can be different thickness or have bulges and concavities in the most unexpected places. This leads to the fact that the frame has to be aligned with the most "outstanding" crown.

As a result, it may turn out that one log in the middle of the wall will become a reference and will determine the passage of all racks of the crate.

If the house is insulated, then this is not so noticeable, because the insulation will partially hide the unevenness of the facade.

The next factor that complicates the alignment of the walls is the presence of log extensions (they are the remains, they are the corners).

If, for example, frame house, we first set the corners, and then align all the other racks of the frame at the corners, then here we simply do not have outer corners due to the protruding ends of the logs.

The only way to level the wall in a vertical plane is to level the outer boards on the wall, fix them and push off from them as from the base.

Siding bypass logs (corners, residues)

Another difficulty with the sheathing of a log house lies in these very remnants of logs: in order to make warm corner with a strong lock, the logs are adjusted to each other in a special way.

There are about 30 forms and names of these castles, and we are not so well versed in the construction of logs to consider everything. And there are construction methods in which there are no corners:

But most of the castles have one obvious property in common: when logs are stacked one on top of the other, cruciform joints are formed at the corners of the house, which cannot be sawn off to level the facade.

Such angles complicate the siding sheathing and lead to an increase in the cost of materials and work.

To bypass the corners of the log house when installing siding, we use three methods.

Method number 1. Box at the corners

With this method, we make a box in which the takeaway is completely hidden.

In doing so, we use:

• outdoor on the side of the wall;
• outer at the corner of the box.

It turns out that for such a bypass we need three outer and two inner corners on each corner of the house.

Many customers do not like this method, because the house becomes bulky in appearance.

Method number 2. Walking on the surface of a log

In this case, we go around all the extensions, as if sticking around them with siding from the outside.

For one corner we need:

• internal corner between the wall and the extension;
• external from the side of the wall;
• outer from the side of the corner;
• internal between perpendicular extensions;
• outer on the second extension from the side of the corner;
• external from the side of the second wall;
• internal between the second extension and the second wall.

This bypass method is the most material-intensive, but it has its advantages.

For example, a house sheathed in this way retains a look close to the original: cruciform corners are preserved.

In addition, this skin allows you to make the takeaways less cumbersome and conspicuous.

Method number 3. Preservation of unsewn nooks and crannies

In some cases, customers are asked to keep the takeaway without sheathing it with siding.

We approach the corner along the wall, and finish the siding with a J-profile. The extensions remain "as they were", and the customer usually paints them in a color that matches the color of the panels or roof.

The disadvantage of this approach is that the corners of the log house continue to be under the influence environment, and they are not protected by vinyl.

Another disadvantage is that the corner remains cold, and if the walls are insulated, then the heat will leak right there.

But in terms of material consumption, this method is the most economical.

Method number 4. Flat lining

If the ends of the logs do not stick out very much, then sometimes they can be hidden with a frame so that it will not be clear from the outside whether there were corners or not.

In this case, the house after sheathing looks as usual: no boxes and leftovers.

Insulation under siding

If a log house is insulated during finishing, then the "pie" of this insulation is no different from the standard "pie" that we use on other houses.

First, the log house is closed with a vapor barrier, and it is mounted closely, enveloping each crown.

Then, suspensions are mounted on the vapor barrier, on which the frame will be attached.

After that, a heater is mounted on the suspensions, which is then pressed against the first layer of the frame.

In some cases, the customer believes that without a vapor barrier, the house will “breathe” better. Especially often people who read construction forums where users varying degrees advanced people share tips.

We have nothing against sharing construction experience, but we ask you to take into account that anyone can write a smart and confident post on the forum: both a professional with 20 years of experience, and just a person who understands nothing about construction but loves to give advice.

And you can't tell one from the other. So be careful and listen to those who are responsible for their recommendations with money.

In addition to wall insulation, remember that heat escapes through corners and openings: windows and doors. And, of course, through the roof or ceiling in a cold attic.

So, even insulated walls do not always guarantee you that the house will become warmer. Heat is like water, it flows where there is less resistance, remember?

And if you decide to insulate the log house under the siding, approach this task in a comprehensive manner. Better yet, turn to professionals.

That's all.

What will the look be like? wooden house, primarily depends on its finish. many owners wooden buildings prefer to sheathe the house with a variety of finishing materials that simultaneously decorate, insulate and protect wooden walls from adverse factors. However, the sheathing of a log house has some difficulties, their reason is the corner joints of the log house. The corners interfere with the installation of the crate, without which it is impossible to make a sheathing at home. Finishing the corners of a wooden house outside and inside the room causes the greatest difficulty in carrying out finishing works. How to properly finish corner joints, and how to sheathe corners without damaging wooden structure? We will talk about this in the article.

Finishing the corners of the log house, as well as the whole house, is started after the primary shrinkage process, about a year after construction.

Directly finishing the corners inside and outside a wooden house can be done after performing the following work:

• grinding;
• protective treatment;
• insulation.

grinding

If in the future it is planned to sheathe the house from a bar on the outside with clapboard, siding or other material, the following method of insulation can be adopted: the corner is completely covered with foil with the shiny side out, the foil can also be fixed with a furniture stapler.

The view at the corners is not very presentable, but it doesn’t matter, because the top of the house will be covered decorative cladding, which completely hides the insulation.

Other possible options insulation of outer corners:

• basalt insulation;
• fiberglass;
• foam;
• foamed polyethylene.

Outside corners cannot be insulated with polyurethane foam, which accumulates moisture in itself and contributes to dampness of wood.

Features of finishing of external corners

Regardless of what wood lumber, timber or logs the house is made of, there are two main ways to connect corners:

• “into the bowl”, after the junction there is a certain piece of log;
• "in the paw", the bars or logs are cut off without a trace.

When using this method of cutting corners, it turns out very beautiful shape connection that can be originally decorated, for example, painted different elements logs in contrasting colors.

With corner connection without residue, special meaning acquires insulation, since in this option, the corner remains without protection and in the absence good insulation passes the cold.

Typically, this method of felling a log house is used if the sheathing of the log house is planned in the future. closed corners, chopped without residue, become warmer and tighter.

However, if you complete the cladding of a log house that has not undergone full shrinkage, the cladding may be deformed. At the same time, corners should not be left open for a long time. The ends of the logs can crack under the influence of precipitation and sunlight.

You can close the pre-caulked corners with a regular board. If you fix the board rigidly, then during the draft of the log house, logs may hang and cracks may appear. To avoid this, it is necessary to make a vertical slot 2 cm long in the board and, when screwing it to the corner joint, screw a self-tapping screw into the highest point of the slot.

A board nailed in this way will not interfere with the natural shrinkage of the house. If over time the length of the slot is not enough, you can unscrew the screw and screw it again to the top point.

After the shrinkage processes are over, the corners can be sheathed with clapboard or siding. Facing corner joints, chopped into a paw, does not cause much difficulty, since the corner is cut down without a trace, it will not interfere with making the crate in the usual way.

In another way, such an angle is called "warm", and this is no coincidence. With such a cabin, the corners let the cold through less, due to which the house is warmer. Nose outside log buildings protrude outward, often the ends are of unequal length, this does not allow the frame to be correctly installed. The question arises: how to sheathe the corners of a log house in this case?

In some sources, you can find advice: cut down the protruding structural elements in stages, and fasten them with staples to strengthen them. However, as a result of cutting the ends, which are elements load-bearing structure and give strength to the house, the building may lose stability and weaken.

If pins were not installed during construction, then for a weakened structure, even the slightest effort is fraught with destruction. Therefore, it is worth thinking carefully before making such a decision.

The sheathing of a log house must be done in such a way as to keep all corners intact. When installing the crate, it is necessary that the indentation from the wall of the house corresponds to the length of the protruding elements.

If the ends are of different lengths, they are filed so that they form a straight line. It is quite possible that in this case the frame will strongly recede from the wall, then it will be necessary to align the dimensions with the help of thick bars with a section of 50x50 mm.

You can use alternative, which involves mounting the frame separately for the wall and separately for the corner. In this case, the corner frame is independent element design and is performed in four planes. Availability of additional corner elements will increase the consumption of material, but in ready-made this building looks very impressive.

Finishing the internal, as well as the external corners of the log house, begins with the obligatory grinding and caulking of the joints. Often, especially if the corners are cut into a bowl, they look very beautiful, and you don’t want to hide them under the skin, but on the contrary, you want to emphasize their beauty.

To highlight the smooth outlines of the lines, it is enough to put a jute or linen rope on top of the caulk. The inner corners, connected in a paw way, do not look so impressive, but they can also be beautifully beaten with a decorative rope. For the same purpose, you can use contrasting paints, covering them with the joints and ends of the logs.

If there are wide gaps at the corner joints of the logs that are unlikely to be closed with a rope, you can decorate the corner with two edged sanded boards. They need to be tightly connected to each other so that there are no gaps, and an even vertical angle is obtained.

You can also close gusset using a single board, installed vertically at an angle of 45 degrees to both walls. But this finish is used much less frequently.

As for finishing the inner corners of a log house, it is not particularly difficult. A timber house has flat walls with even corners that can be sheathed with any material: clapboard, block house, timber imitation.

The corner joints of the log house are the most difficult areas and always cause difficulties in processing for non-professional craftsmen. Not only the appearance of the house depends on the quality of their finish, but also how comfortable its residents will feel.

If you wish your wooden house was warm, cozy and beautiful, entrust its decoration to the company "Master Srubov". There are no impossible tasks for our specialists, we can easily cope with the most intricate finish and implement any interior solutions.

Our company employs not only experienced craftsmen, but also qualified designers who will offer you various options designs for your home.

You can contact us by phone or send us a message. You will find all our coordinates in the section.

Calculate the cost of painting and insulating your home right now

In the old days (until the 19th century), log cabins were usually not sheathed with boards. First, it was expensive. Secondly, during moving, fires, division of property, the hut could be quickly rolled out on logs.
Without any decoration and sheathing, the log cabins calmly survived the centuries. In the north, log cabins were treated with resin. Such blackened logs in Norway, for example, have been standing since the 12th century. In our area (North-West), preserved wooden buildings from the 17th century are known.

In the old days, mainly public buildings and rich estates were sheathed with boards from the forerunner of modern timber - a log hewn from the edges. Such buildings of the 18th century were sometimes painted "like a brick". The picture shows the wooden church of the Archangel Michael built in 1730 in the village of Alekhovshchina. This church was originally built in the form of a stone temple.
An example of a hewn log in an old log cabin in Porvoo. Such a log house has been standing in the rainy northern region for at least one and a half hundred years without any sheathing.

A good-quality log cabin generally does not need either internal or external cladding. On my own wooden frame looks great and is quite self-sufficient. It is enough to sand it and cover it with a translucent antiseptic or paint it.
The painted frame looks great too. So why cover the log cabins?

The sheathing of a log house was most often used in manor estates, on religious buildings, to give a richer, urban or "stone" look. Also, the sheathing of the log house was used to hide the defects of poor-quality felling or, in this way, to "restore" the old house.
Sheathing the log house with a board with a painting under the brickwork.



Sheathing of log cabins with wood could be horizontal.
In Scandinavia, vertical sheathing of log cabins was preferred. Vertical sheathing made it possible to sheathe long buildings without joining boards, better protected the log house from precipitation and dried out faster after rain.



Russian huts began to be sheathed with boards and planks in the second half of the 19th century.
One of these houses, the house of an Old Believer fisherman from Peipsi, is being reconstructed near Tallinn in a museum wooden architecture in Roca al Mare. We were lucky to see the technology of the correct sheathing of the log house.



The guides for sheathing the log house are recessed into the log house according to the level. To do this, cuts are made in the logs with a saw and the wood is removed with a chisel.
The main secret of the correct sheathing of a log house, which can be done already in the first year of building a log house, is taking into account the shrinkage of the tree, which lasts an average of 5 years. Therefore, above the windows and doorways leave gaps for shrinkage, and the sheathing guides are fixed in a special way.


The guides for sheathing are rigidly fixed to the lower crown of the log house, and the rest of the fasteners are made sliding. The position of the sheathing guides is controlled by a stretched cord to create a base for a flat plane.

In the guides with a cutter or jigsaw, cuts are made to a width slightly larger than the width of the screw. The guide is pressed plumbing screw with a turnkey head through a wide washer. During the shrinkage of logs, the mount slides freely in the groove without deformation of the outer skin.

Guides are fixed at all openings and in increments of no more than 1.5 meters along all blank walls.
Pay attention to the characteristic Estonian roofing from a combination of planks and shingles. [

Close the corners of the log house.
Let's talk about simple and cheap ways to solve the problems that arise when building wooden houses.

Many people prefer to live in a wooden "breathing" house. The oldest way to build it is a log house. But a log house is not so easy to build and has a number of serious features that led to the development of other technologies for building wooden houses.
A well-known problem of wooden log cabins is its draft. When installing a new frame, be prepared to solve the problem that at the beginning, over several years, the frame shrinks, in other words, the vertical size changes.
In this case, let's talk about the simplest solution to the problem of closing corners with boards.
log house chopped "in the paw".

A log cabin cut into a paw has a disadvantage arising from its advantage of saving material - its corners are open to external influences. This leads to both early destruction and freezing in cold weather.

Only the right decision it is to close this place with boards, while insulation can also be used. But the boards are rigid and by fixing them to the frame, we get the problem of hanging logs and gaps between them. This is solved simply - just make a slot in the board in the vertical direction. The self-tapping screw is screwed into the top point of the slot and enters the log of the log house. The log, when moving down, will not be limited to a rigid connection with the board. The pressing of the board to the crown of the log will occur due to the hat. The gap width in this case is 3 mm.

This is how it looks from afar. This method of attaching them to the frame does not spoil the appearance of the boards. If the slot turns out to be short, then the self-tapping screw can be unscrewed and screwed again in top point cracks. Thus, there will be no restrictions on the movement of the log. And it makes no sense to make the gap long, 2 centimeters is enough, although the subsidence of the log house itself may turn out to be larger. This is one of the many simplest solutions that solve the problem of a settling new log house chopped "in the paw". Do it yourself section.

The final stage in the construction of any private house is its external decorative trim, therefore, future owners of suburban housing often ask questions: how to finish the facade of the house in such a way as to minimize their construction costs, and at the same time give the building a unique elegant appearance and emphasize its individual style.

Answering this question, I should immediately note that the exterior finish of the house has not only a decorative purpose, but also performs protective functions, protecting the facade from destructive effects. external factors and also improves thermal insulation properties and energy-saving qualities of the walls of the building, reducing the current costs of its air conditioning and heating.

The choice of material for facade decoration

There is currently a large number of and construction technologies, which allow the owner of the house to do this work on their own, without the involvement of qualified specialists.

In order for each homeowner to be able to choose for himself the most suitable option, then an overview instruction will be presented, in which I will try to convey to the reader the main features, as well as the main positive and negative qualities the most common modern materials designed for exterior decoration of private houses.

Decorative plaster

For many decades, plastering facades was considered the only possible way exterior decoration of brick and cast-in-place concrete houses, however, I cannot call this method obsolete, since it is widely used in our time.

Modern plastering work are not limited to the use of the usual, cement-sand or lime mortar, since in addition to it, more progressive building mixtures most different colors providing comprehensive protection building facade.

1. Plaster mixture based on sand and cement, which I wrote about above, is still the simplest and most economical way decorative and protective finishing of buildings made of mineral building materials(concrete, brick), because it protects the facade well from moisture and significant temperature changes. Considering the low cost of all components of the solution, this method is well suited for those residents who are thinking about the question: the cheaper it is to finish the facade of the house after its construction;
2. As a good alternative to the previous solution, I can recommend acrylic plaster"Knauf", which is characterized by a more uniform consistency and elastic structure, therefore it is more resistant to cracking. It is produced completely ready for use, and is sold in plastic buckets 25 kg. Such a bucket is enough to process 5-7 m² of the surface of the facade, while its cost will be from 1400 to 1800 rubles;

1. For the exterior of private residential buildings located in the city, I recommend using silicone facade plaster"Ceresit CT 174". It passes air and water vapor well, does not fade under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, has a very elastic structure and has hydrophobic properties, so that dirt and street dust do not accumulate on it. Silicone plaster is also sold from the store in finished form, packaged in buckets of 25 kg, but its cost is from 3800 to 4900 rubles per bucket;

1. silicate plaster it is also highly resistant to atmospheric factors, and in addition, it prevents the formation of mold fungus, so it is good to use it for finishing north side facades of houses located in damp shaded places. The cost of a standard package (25 kg) will be from 1800 to 2400 rubles.

Note! Plaster compositions applied enough thin layer, and by themselves do not have good thermal insulation properties, therefore, to improve the energy-saving characteristics of the building, I recommend using them as a topcoat, after external wall insulation with foam or mineral wool panels.

Facing brick

Facing bricks can be used for facing monolithic concrete or brick house, buildings made of lightweight cellular aerated concrete, wooden frame-panel houses, and even old adobe buildings, so this finish allows you to give any, even the most dilapidated building, a truly noble and monumental appearance.

Decorative exterior finish facing brick not only provides reliable and durable protection of the facade, but also improves bearing characteristics external walls, and also significantly increases their thermal insulation properties, but at the same time it has its own characteristics.

1. Facing brick has a hollow internal structure, therefore, in itself it has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity;

1. In order to improve the energy-saving performance of a residential building, outdoor facing masonry should be located at some distance (20-50 mm) from bearing walls buildings, and fill the resulting gap with loose heat-insulating material (expanded clay, perlite, foam granules);
2. Given the significant weight of the facing brickwork, it must be based on the foundation of a residential building, so it must be designed with a sufficient margin of safety;
3. I want to note right away that this method is the most expensive, since the cost of a brick Russian production will be from 12 to 26 rubles, and foreign-made - from 18 to 42 rubles per piece;

1. as more simple option brick cladding thermal pads can be used, which you need to fasten with your own hands directly to the facade, using dowels and self-tapping screws. They are a substrate made of foam or polyurethane foam 40-60 mm thick, on which the clinker is glued. ceramic tile. Foamed polyurethane provides good thermal insulation, a clinker tiles allows you to imitate brickwork;
2. This finish is also not cheap., since the cost of thermal panels can be from 1800 to 2600 rubles per square meter.

Advice! For those homeowners who do not know how to finish the corners of the facade of the house, I recommend paying attention to the corner sections of thermal panels that can be combined with other finishing materials, for example, by applying them to the corners of the plastered facade.

Ventilated facade

Structurally, a ventilated facade is a complex composition of several types of materials, which are mounted on the building wall in a certain sequence. Directly adjacent to the facade is a breathable thermal insulation material (mineral wool), then a windproof vapor-permeable membrane is laid, after which a small air gap remains, behind which the outer facing coating is mounted.

Thanks to air gap and vapor-permeable properties of the materials used, normal air circulation and free exit of water vapor to the outside of the room are ensured, therefore, in my opinion, the installation of a ventilated facade is the most acceptable option for finishing a wooden house from a bar or log cabin.

Such a system is quite simply assembled according to a proven technology, and as an external decorative coating one of the following materials may be used:

1. The simplest and cheapest solution is plastic siding , which is produced in a wide range of various textures and colors. Among weaknesses can be identified as low mechanical strength and color fading under exposure sun rays, however, the low price of this material (from 220 to 560 rubles / m²) compensates for the shortcomings;
2. Metal siding panels have greater strength and durability, since they are made of galvanized sheet steel, painted with polyester enamel in specific color. They can be monophonic, or with imitation of various natural materials, for example, rounded logs or natural stone. It is slightly more expensive plastic panels, and depending on the specific brand, it can have a price of 280 to 800 rubles / m²;

1. Fiber cement boards costing from 370 to 1200 rubles per square meter, is available in the form of flat or embossed panels of various colors, with imitation of natural stone or brickwork. This material has high strength and well resists the effects of atmospheric factors, and in addition, it does not contribute to the penetration of capillary moisture and the development of mold, so I recommend using it to finish the basement of a building;
2. Wooden panel block house with a trapezoidal or semicircular profile of the front surface, allow you to perform realistic imitation a log cabin or a house made of profiled glued beams. In addition to high aesthetic qualities, such panels have sufficient strength, low thermal conductivity and absolute environmental friendliness, so they are well suited for facing residential buildings. permanent residence. The cost of such panels can range from 450 to 900 rubles per 1 m².

Conclusion

To give your home a unique look and original style, I recommend not to focus on any one way of finishing the facade, but to use a combination of various materials. For example, block house or metal siding can be combined with fiber cement or porcelain stoneware panels, and in the finish decorative plaster make inserts from natural or artificial stone.

You can learn more about all the described methods from the video presented in this article, and if, after reading the publication, the reader has questions for its author, I can answer them in the comment form.

To paraphrase a well-known phrase - everything should be fine in a person, you can confidently try it on a wooden house of your own production. In addition to the magnificent facade, when the log house is a wild or rounded version, as well as a smooth profiled beam, it is necessary to pay attention to the corners of the house, even if they are not immediately visible. Decorative processing will carry not only beauty, but also the protection of these territories, which are extremely important for the entire log house as a whole.

What processing are the corners of the log house

Actually, the same as the building as a whole. Namely:

1. Protection.
2. Finishing.

Grinding Features

Grinding - the first stage pre-treatment requiring special attention. It includes the following work:

• So that the corners of the log cabins do not freeze, do not interact with moisture, and as a result do not have damage long time, they need to be handled properly. Before this process, it is necessary to apply grinding.

It is designed to remove the remnants of the bark from a log or beam, seal up small meshes of cracks, and, in general, give the house a well-groomed look. Need to act special machines with petal nozzles, because such work is not done manually - it will take a lot of time and effort.

• An independent process is quite possible. Also because the services of specialists are not at all cheap, however, by ordering grinding own house, about him appearance you don't have to worry.
• How is the corner sanding done? Insignificantly differently, as if it were carried out for the rest of the surface. The only difference is that special nozzles are used that allow you to climb even into the most inaccessible places.

The principle of a steam iron - it can even work extreme point in the nose. The grinder works the same way.

• First, movements start from the edges, gradually delving into conjugations. It will not be possible to immediately make the connection of the logs perfect - the dust will clog them, as well as the nose and eyes. Therefore, it is worth arming yourself with a cleaning brush and products personal protection.

Without this, high-quality grinding is impossible. When the process of bringing the corners into a decent form is over, you should again carefully sweep out the wood dust and leave them to dry naturally for a day.

Without the described work, finishing the corners of the log house is impossible.

Antiseptic protection is the most important stage

There are mixed formulations on sale, but they are unreliable. It is worth remembering that wood needs protection from all sides, so ignore internal corners slop is impossible. Sequencing:

• The first thing to do immediately after grinding is to inspect the log house for existing damage - the machine will not be able to remove it completely. For example, only knowledgeable person recognizes the beginning of a fungus or laying of a bark beetle.

• Next, you need to apply the composition, paying special attention to the mates. Since most of them (compositions) are already ready for use, you can start working immediately. But there are those whose formula is highly concentrated.

With them, you should be extremely careful and carefully read the annotation on the package. Otherwise, there is a risk of damage own health, processing the corners of a log house from a bar or log.

All products are applied in this order - moisture protection, bio, and liquid - fire retardant. You need to go through all the connections - internal and external.

• Used to apply formulations different instruments: brushes, rollers, sprayers. All this must be accompanied by personal protective equipment. After work, it is recommended to wash everything in running water, with some kind of neutralizing powder - for example, baking soda.

Then dry thoroughly, pack and store out of the reach of children. This is about tools. The rest of the compositions can not be stored at all.

It is better to use them for their intended purpose completely, and dispose of the container or burn it. Thus, a corner frame, like any other, is subjected to chemical treatment.

With such work, everyone will definitely cope.

Finishing - methods, materials and features

Individual felling of the corners of the log house involves and different finishes. For example, if a log house was made without a trace, that is, in a paw, for it, apart from grinding and high-quality caulking, there is nothing more to offer.

Of course, if the owners want, you can paint such a house, but hardly anyone will change the natural pattern of the tree.

But there are still other options:

Whether this article revealed the essence of the problem - how to finish the corners of the log house, of course, is up to you to decide. But following the rules for processing and finishing the corners of the log house described above will allow you to save own house intact for many years.