How to install a siding starter bar. Finishing plank and other siding components. Finish profile strip

Siding is a convenient, practical and aesthetically attractive material, the most affordable. Another advantage is its quick installation, which you can do with your own hands, with certain skills. This is a constructor that is attached to the crate of the house. Work begins with the installation of the starting bar.

The most common are vinyl and metal, aluminum also belongs to it. Now there are new prefabricated structures on the market that imitate natural materials. Finishing panels mounted on the same principle as traditional ones.

To combine siding of all types into a single ensemble, add-ons are used:

the starting or initial bar serves to start fastening to the wall and is completely covered with panels;
corner (internal, external);
connect the products to each other using an H-shaped extension;
the finishing bar serves for the final stage of installation and is placed at the top of the building;
additional endings and elements: cornice spotlights; J-profile, window - for the design of the perimeter of windows, doors. Drainage, drain perform the function of water disposal.

The starting profile is a complexly bent plinth with grooves for fastening to the wall. The first siding panel is placed transversely on it. Standard size- 3 m 66 cm. The symmetry and even arrangement of all structural elements depend on the correct installation.

Among domestic manufacturers, the Döcke company is singled out, but somewhat complicated fasteners are noted. Ortho has the best value for money. Nordside are highly resistant to temperature extremes. Most manufacturers offer profiles for the frame lathing in the kit.

Mounting and installation rules

The advantage of siding facades is that they are a ventilated system that can be additionally insulated. The starting bar is attached to the frame made of wooden beam in the case of vinyl. The metal sheathing is placed on the profile and drywall hangers. The main fasteners are galvanized self-tapping screws. For the crate you will need dowels (brick, concrete).

Required tool:

perforator;
a screwdriver, with its help, siding and extensions are mounted;
grinder, which cut the panels of the desired size;
level to check if the structural elements are installed correctly;
construction hammer.

It is better to work with gloves and overalls, especially if the facade is additionally insulated with mineral wool.

Step-by-step fastening technology

Training.

Before installation, carry out preparatory stage. To do this, the walls are cleaned of dirt, cement growths and foreign debris. The next stage is the fastening of the crate along the perimeter of the whole house, it is fixed horizontally with a step size of 40-60 cm.

Markup.

Correctly marked dimensions determine the entire design of the cladding. From the base make an indent of 4-5 cm and put marks on the frame, check the level. You can use coated cord to mark a straight line.

Mounting.

The bar is applied to the marks and screwed with screws to the wooden crate, through the grooves for fastening. Start from the middle and go to the ends. Each stage is checked by level.

Self-tapping screws do not twist tightly, leaving 1-1.5 mm. The element must move freely along the grooves. Such a gap is necessary so that all connections are not subjected to deformation under conditions of temperature changes.

Possible errors when installing the starter bar for siding

In the event that it is screwed unevenly, the entire structure will be skewed, corner elements and connections will not be able to dock. At a certain stage, you will have to disassemble the entire system.
Self-tapping screws that are too tight in conditions of temperature changes can lead to slipping out of the fastener grooves, which will lead to sagging of the panels.
Between all the connecting elements of the siding cladding, gaps of up to 6 mm are left to form a deformation seam.
When purchasing material, pay attention to the instructions, it comes with the kit, and the recommendations of the manufacturers. If the extensions do not match each other in strength, this can lead to deformation, cracking.
It is recommended to use as a crate exactly the profile that is mentioned in the manual, or branded, of the same company.
Try to ensure that all connections fit correctly into the grooves, otherwise gaps may form where water, snow will get in, which will lead to freezing of the facade, the formation of condensation, moisture inside the wall.
Follow safety regulations, work in protective clothing. When using a grinder, it is better to protect your eyes with goggles to avoid chips.

The model range has now expanded through the use of composite products, ceramic facades, block house. They, outwardly, are not much different from natural brick, stone, wood, but much cheaper, comparable in terms of durability.

Or siding is an up-to-date and simple way to complete the cladding of a house. For correct fastening panels, a start, finish, drain or base plate and other mounting elements are required. Let's talk about the features of choosing and installing these important details.

Varieties of planks

Usually, a document is attached to a set of slats, which describes in detail their purpose and installation procedure. There are no fundamental differences in the installation of parts from different manufacturers. For this reason, you can safely use the instructions given in this article.

All mounting elements have a special shape and purpose. They also come in different sizes and prices. Consider the features of the most popular types of slats.

For reliable and accurate fastening of panels, a number of auxiliary elements. Click to enlarge.

The starting bar, which is often called the initial bar, is used to install the first panel. The standard length of such a profile is 3660 mm. During operation, it is necessary to take into account such a feature of the material as thickness. The bar is very thin, so it is attached directly to the surface to be treated.

From this bar begins the installation of panels.

The initial bar is installed across the crate, and a rigid base is placed under it. The base material depends on the characteristics of the crate. For example, a lath or a perforated corner is used for a wooden crate, and a UD profile is used for a galvanized crate.

If you have a proprietary facade subsystem with ventilation, then there is no need to additionally mount the base - this has already been provided by the manufacturer.

Interestingly, if you install the siding yourself, the color of the initial bar does not play any role. This is due to the fact that it will be completely covered by the panels and will not affect the appearance lining. The profile is fastened with nails or self-tapping screws.

Outwardly, it looks like a J-profile. Their only difference lies in the thickness (at the finishing frame it is much less). It is used for fixing the end panel and processing the edge of the cut sheet. Since it needs to be fixed across the crate, you must first make the base more rigid. For this, the same materials are used as in the case of the initial bar.

In appearance, the finish bar is very similar to the J-bar.

Most shops sell products with a length of 3660 mm, but other sizes can be found if necessary. The fastening of such a profile is carried out arbitrarily, that is, when screwing in a self-tapping screw, it is not adjusted by 1-2 turns. The nail is also not finished off by 1-1.5 mm. This method makes the mount more resistant to weather conditions. With temperature changes, it can decrease and increase without deforming the structure and without affecting the appearance of the building.

Inner and outer corner

This type of plank is used to connect parts of the siding and external design corners.

outer corner. Standard part length - 3050 mm. Fastening is done arbitrarily, as with the previous bar. This allows the corner to change dimensions with temperature changes. This profile also has decorative properties. You can find corners whose surface is similar to a brick or has the form natural stones. The setting will be the same regardless of the pattern. Due to the peculiarities of the dimensions of the corner plank, the crate must be installed at a distance of 10 cm from the corner of the house. This will help to join the edges of the perforated tape and the crate.
Inner corner. This bar also has a length of 3050 mm. It is used to set the inner corner of the panels. Installation is carried out arbitrarily. The quality of work depends on compliance with the conditions for the profiles of the crate described in the previous paragraph.

Inner and outer corners.

G-plank and G-bevel

J-profile is used for finishing facing surface and interior corners of the building. This is one of essential elements for siding, as it is universal. It is mounted on convex parts. When installed on slopes, it protects them from rain and snow. It is also useful if the siding ends on one wall and does not go to another. The length of the bar is 3660 mm. Mounting is done randomly. When decorating a building metal siding using a G-bar, the end result is neat.
J-bevel, which is also known as wind bar, used for finishing narrow strips. Such a profile can be useful when finishing a cornice or balcony. The chamfer has a length of 3660 mm. Despite the fact that its fixation is carried out on finishing profiles, it is better to use stainless steel screws.

Slope and H profile

A window or slope bar is attached in those places where it is necessary to close thin depressions. Most often it is used to cover the slopes of doors and windows. The installation of the bar is carried out arbitrarily. Its length is 3050 mm.
The connecting H-bar is used when the length of the installed panels does not match the dimensions of the walls. The standard profile length is 3050 mm. Mounting is done randomly. The plank is mounted along the crate before the siding is attached, so additional profiles are attached for it. They must be horizontal. Their fastening is carried out every half a meter.

Platband and hinged bar

This type of slats is used quite rarely and not all manufacturers have it. Sometimes the platband is sold with the marking "wide G-profile". Most often it is used in decorative purposes. It is installed at the joints of different types of siding. It is also often used to create a window frame if it is flush with the wall. The length of one bar is 3660 mm. Mounting is done randomly.

Element - platband.

drain bar

The purpose of this bar becomes clear from its name. It is necessary for the drainage and drainage of water. In addition, it has decorative properties. Usually a drain or plinth strip is required when designing a transitional space between the plinth and the facade. Due to the peculiarities of its design, it cannot become a guide profile for attaching siding. A starting bar is mounted on top of it, and a corner or rail is mounted under it. This is necessary for rigidity. Lath length - 3660 mm.

When installing planks, remember that the durability and beauty of the siding directly depend on them. You can avoid bumps if you think about the installation and make sure that the siding panels are 50mm shorter than the net length of the installation. Otherwise, under high temperatures it will seriously deform or bend the bar. In any case, you will need to make repairs, that is, remove panels and trims, and then reinstall them.

If during installation you find that you do not have an internal corner, then it's okay. Instead, you can use 2 J-strips, after attaching each to a separate plane.

The diagram shows in which places of the structure which elements are used.

What do you need to cover the house with siding?

Cord.
Square.
Building level.
Saw or hacksaw for metal work. It is important that the saw has fine teeth. Large teeth can damage parts. Moreover, it is difficult to perform small work with them.
Knife cutter. You will need it in order to mark the lines along which the panels will pass.
Screwdriver and screws.

In general, the installation of slats does not present serious difficulties. In order to facilitate the work, purchase all the materials in advance and consider where each panel will be attached.

In spite of big number varieties of slats and the technical details of the installation, you can do everything yourself.

Siding panels - a spectacular design of the facade of the house. Thanks to modern technologies this finishing material can imitate almost any surface - stone, wood, brick. The popularity of such decorative panels due to low cost, as well as excellent quality characteristics. You can install siding yourself. This does not require any special skills. It is enough to use the instructions below for installing do-it-yourself siding for dummies.

The sequence of work during the installation of siding is almost always the same. Here are the main stages of arranging the facade of a house using this technology:

Installation of decorative panels always begins with the installation of the starting profile. Later, it will be completely hidden by the first plate. If the starting profile is not fixed in level, then the subsequent panels will lie unevenly on the wall, so you need to constantly check the correct installation.
Each siding plate is equipped with a special lock with which it is fixed with the previous one. Perforation is provided in the upper part of the panel. It is through these holes that the plate is fastened.
After the wall is fully assembled, it is necessary to complete the work by installing the finishing bar.

When installing siding, one should take into account the possible linear expansion and contraction of the material due to temperature changes. So that when changing weather conditions the panels did not burst, it is necessary to create temperature gaps. in vertical and corner strips siding should not be inserted tightly. The head of the self-tapping screw / nail, which fastens the plate, should not press it strongly against the frame. The panel should be fastened in the middle of the perforation hole, which will ensure its mobility when temperatures change.

There are no specific rules at what temperature to install siding. It is desirable that it be at least minus 10 degrees outside. But the size of the temperature gaps depends on the season in which the installation is carried out. In summer, the side clearance should be about 10 mm, in winter they should be increased to 12 mm.

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation rules

Installation of any siding begins with the assembly of the frame. It can be vertical or horizontal. Most often, a vertical frame is suitable for panels such as a ship board or a block house.

Arrangement of a vertical frame

First, a vertical line is drawn at the corner of the house using building level and prepared plumb lines. Holes are drilled along the line at the same distance on both sides for attaching hangers or mounting brackets, into which it is installed metallic profile. Further, the same guide is attached to the opposite corner of the wall and a construction cord is pulled between them. Adhering to a given level, the remaining guides are fixed in increments of no more than 40-50 cm.

Around windows and doors, it is required to additionally install a frame made of profiles. In these places, near-window strips or a cashier will be attached. In addition, it will be necessary to strengthen the frame in those places where it is planned to install lighting lamps or a split-system motor unit in the future.

Panel assembly

After the frame is completed, you can begin the sheathing process. Panels from different manufacturers have various designs additional elements and fixing locks. But instructions for connecting them usually come with vinyl siding. However, there are general principles panel fixings:

corner profiles are fixed strictly vertically;
fix siding panels start from the middle to the edges;
when attaching the plates, self-tapping screws or screws are not screwed to the very end.

Useful advice! To get a gap between the self-tapping screw and the siding plate, it is screwed in until it stops, and then unscrewed one turn.

The assembly begins with the installation of starting and corner strips. Ordinary vinyl panels are subsequently inserted into them. Since the corner strips are quite flexible, they can be used to equip both obtuse and sharp corners. To get an obtuse angle, the bar is pressed down a little, and for a sharp one, it is compressed.

A special H-connector is provided for docking ordinary panels. It is necessary when the length of the plate is not enough to completely cover the wall. You can do without using this element. Then the plates are screwed together.

Metal siding installation rules: instructions

The principle of facade cladding with metal siding is the same as with vinyl siding. For installation you will need:

internal and external corners;
starting rail;
connecting profile;
finishing rail;
platbands.

Installation of metal siding starts from the corner of the building. The first row of panels is attached to the starting rail with a bottom lock. The next rows are fixed with the lock of the previous row. This is how the entire wall is gradually covered. The top row is fixed with a finishing rail.

Useful advice! If during installation it is necessary to extend the corner strips, then top part should be mounted on the bottom with an overlap of 2-2.5 cm.

Installation instructions for basement siding

For mounting basement siding framing will also be required. It is done by creating the same frame as for the walls. If there is no concrete or tile covering around the house, then the lower ends do not reach the ground by about 7-10 cm. Additionally, before starting the installation of basement siding, it is necessary to check how level the foundation is. To do this, measure the height of the base around the entire perimeter. If the height is the same everywhere, then when facing, you can use the starting profile. But if there are significant differences, then you will have to cut the very first panel.

Usually sides plinth panels stepped, therefore, near the corners, the protruding parts will have to be cut off. Should be inserted into the corner profile smooth edge. It is also necessary to pre-match the size of the panels and their number with long wall. The end plate should not be less than 20 cm. final touch you can consider the fastening of the J-profile around the entire perimeter of the base. It is necessary to protect against moisture ingress.

Photo-instruction for the installation of siding

When performing siding finishing, you will definitely need special components. Some of them perform a decorative and protective role, and some, such as the plinth for the facade, are needed to fix the material or as guides.

In any case, it will not be possible to do without additional elements.

All manufacturers of this facing material, in addition to the siding itself, they produce a certain set of components designed for its installation.

They may differ slightly from each other in profile, color, size, and even have different names, but at the same time they are all designed to perform the same tasks:

Protection of the "weak" places of the facade from moisture and other atmospheric influences;
Design of facade nodes;
Fixing panels.

The plinth or starting strip for basement siding is the element with which the wall decoration begins. It is installed along a horizontal line marked 40 mm above the bottom edge of the trim.

Subsequently, the lower edge of the panel is inserted into the starting fastener. The upper edge of the cladding is attached to the crate or wall. Below we will take a closer look at how to install the plinth bar with your own hands.

Note!
The cladding completely hides the starting bar, so it does not have to be matched to the color of the panels.

I must say that this part is used not only for the installation of siding. In particular, plinth strips for tiles and other facing materials are used.

Connecting and decorative accessories

As mentioned above, there are quite a few additional elements that are used for different purposes:

H-profile (connecting fastener)- for connecting panels to each other when increasing the length or when switching from one color to another.
Drain or hanging bar- used to protect the basement of the building and windows bends. Mounted at the junction of the plinth with the finish or at the top of the openings.
External and inner corner - accessories for connecting panels at the intersection of planes.
J-bevel (wind panel) used in the finishing of roof eaves.
Trim and near-window panels are applied at finishing of door and window openings.
– is installed before the installation of the last panel, masking its perforated or trimmed edge.

Note!
From configuration and availability additional elements, depends on the price of the facing material.

Hence it follows that necessary set components largely depends on in which area of \u200b\u200bthe building the siding is used. For example, a wind bar is not needed for the kitchen, but trims are useful, while for a completely different set of parts.

From mounting base plate further lining depends, therefore this process special attention needs to be paid.

So, the instructions for mounting the starting bar are as follows:

First of all, it is necessary to find the lower point of the future lining, after which it is necessary to set aside 40 mm from it upwards.
Then, using the building level, a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the facade. If the siding is attached to the crate, it is necessary to make marks on the vertical profiles.
Next, the part with the upper edge is applied to the line or markup and fixed with self-tapping screws to load-bearing structure or wall through perforation holes.
When mounting the “start”, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5-6 mm between the ends of the fasteners, this will allow them to expand freely with temperature changes. Otherwise, a wave effect can be obtained on the lining. The same distance should be left between fasteners and frame elements.

Note!
Self-tapping screws and nails should not be hammered from the edge, but into the middle of an oblong hole.
In this case, the fasteners should not be very tight so that the part can move along the wall, within the mounting hole.

In the photo - installation of the finishing bar

In order for the first siding panel to be well fixed, a starting bar is specially mounted. It is with this element that the facade cladding begins. In this article we will tell you how to install a starter bar for siding with different types of plinth and about some features of using a starter bar.

Specifications

The starting bar cannot be seen as it is covered by the first panel. For this reason, its main technical specifications this is the length. As a rule, this figure will depend on the size of the length of the siding panel. The starting bar should be selected immediately when buying sidingso that there are no discrepancies.

As for the dignity of the starting bar, several aspects can be distinguished here:

The starting bar is not deformed, does not give in to corrosion and cracking.
At negative impact atmospheric precipitation does not lose its technological properties in terms of strength and integrity.
No special tools are required to install the starter bar.
The plank is not flammable.
When exposed sun rays or when the temperature drops, the starting bar does not lose its strength.

Mounting Features

As mentioned above, this bar is mounted directly in front of the siding sheathing. Based on the fact that the base can be different kind, the installation of the bar is carried out in different ways. The base is of three types:

Smooth.
sinking.
Speaker.

When installing the starting bar on a sinking and even plinth, there is one installation principle. The protruding plinth requires a different approach. In some cases, the installed crate on the wall can make a protruding plinth sink down.

Note! The start bar is set not only to start the installation of siding. It is also used in sheathing attics, finishing gables. Also, the bar can be mounted from the second or third floor.

Mounting on a recessed and level plinth

The level of the wall between the base and the wall is often called "zero". It is this boundary that must be found before starting work. To do this, you can use the water level, which checks every corner of the house. They need to determine the low point of the installation of the starting profile. For example, let's take a starting profile, the width of which is 6.4 cm. From the bottom point found on the wall, measure this width and hammer a nail into the wall. Around the perimeter of the house at each corner, the nail is hammered at the same level height.

Note! Sometimes sheathing can be done with a slight overlap on the base. To do this, retreat not 6.4 cm, but 5 cm. The overlap can be of any width, but it should not overlap the middle of the bar itself.

Connect the hammered nails with one cord. This cord indicates the upper limit of the starting bar. So that the cord does not interfere with the installation of the plank, you can rub it with chalk and beat off the line around the entire perimeter of the house.

Next, check for the presence of crates along the entire length of the house. It should be enough to install the starting bar. In some cases, it may be necessary to build up the crate, especially if the plinth is far from horizontal and some corners are pulled up strongly.

After these works, you can proceed directly to the installation of the bar itself.

Note! Any unevenness of the starting bar can lead to siding defects in subsequent rows.

For installation, a distance is measured from the corner of the house, which will be the same as the width of the corner profile (75 mm) or j-profile (46 mm). In this case, one must not forget to take into account the presence of a temperature gap of up to 5 mm.

Note! The starter strip for the siding sheathing can be made in any color, as it will be completely covered by the sheathing.

Now retreat from the corner to the width of the profile plus the temperature gap. Put the starting bar in this place and fix it. All this must be done according to the markup carried out. The top edge of the plank must completely match the mark along the entire perimeter of the walls. The plank can be fixed with nails or screws. They are inserted into a special perforated hole. After installation, the bar should be moved from side to side, returning to its original place. Nothing should interfere with these movements. After installing the first bar, you also retreat up to 10 mm for the temperature gap and install the next starting bar.

According to this principle, installation is carried out around the entire perimeter of the facade. In the process of work, from time to time you can check the bar for horizontality using a level.

Mounting on a raised plinth

Before installing the starting bar on the protruding plinth, it is necessary to install the ebb. It will protect the base from moisture. To do this, it will be enough to use an ebb 10 cm wide. Before installing it, the surface of the base, and it can be made of brick, stone or concrete, must be leveled. If the base is wooden, then it is treated with an antiseptic. The search for the bottom point of the wall or occurs in the same way as with a flat or sinking base. A line is also beaten off along the entire perimeter of the walls.

The tide is mounted from the corner. A meter-long piece of ebb is cut off. It is necessary to make a cutout in it so that the desired external or external angle is formed. Each subsequent ebb is installed with an overlap of 2.5 cm.

When the ebb is fixed around the entire perimeter of the facade, you can proceed with the installation of the starting bar. To do this, measure 4 cm from the tide bar and again beat off the line with chalk. Next, the installation of the starting bar is carried out according to the same principle as with a flat or sinking base.

Video

Setting up the start bar is very simple:

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