How best to insulate the outer wall of the house. Features of wall insulation outside a private house. Comparative characteristics of materials for insulation

External thermal insulation of a residential building includes insulation of walls, roofs, door and window openings, as well as foundation and sewer pipes. If the insulation is partially performed, this will not give the expected effect and significant savings. Only full complex work will create in the home maximum comfort even in the most severe frosts. Thanks to modern technology, it is becoming easier to insulate a house from the outside with your own hands.

External thermal insulation of the roof is performed at the construction stage. If the house is already in operation, then it is more expedient to insulate the attic and inside rafters. For outdoor work, very little is required: insulation, waterproofing film and lumber for the crate. Styrofoam can be used as a heater, polystyrene boards or mineral wool.

Step 1. Attaching the waterproofing

On the truss system from above lay a film for waterproofing. They begin work from the eaves: along the roof, the film is fixed with a horizontal strip, fixing its edges with stapler staples to the tree. The second strip is overlapped, and construction tape is glued along the seam. The film is laid freely, with sagging up to 2 cm between the rafters.

Step 2. Installing a wooden crate

From a 10x10 cm beam and transverse rails, a crate is knocked down over the film. The bars are nailed at a distance of 30-50 cm, depending on the type roofing. The vertical rows should line up with and be attached to the rafter beams. All wooden elements must first be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Step 3. Laying thermal insulation

Insulation is tightly laid in the cells of the crate. For cold regions, laying in 2 layers is recommended, while the insulation should not protrude above the bars. All gaps that were formed during installation must be carefully foamed, otherwise warm air will escape through them.

Step 4. Installation of roofing

Lathing boards are nailed onto the bars protruding from the heat-insulating layer. Then, if polystyrene foam boards are chosen as a heater, they proceed to the installation of the roof. If the insulation was carried out with mineral wool, it is first closed protective film and then lay the finish coat.

Wall insulation procedure

The process of wall insulation is the longest, because the working area is quite large. The whole process is divided into three stages - surface preparation, laying insulation and finishing. The facade can be tiled, decorative plaster or ventilated.

For insulation you will need:

• thermal insulation material;
• bars or aluminum profiles;
• building level;
• drill;
• self-tapping screws;
• primer;
• vapor barrier membrane;
• cement mortar;
• finishing material.

Step 1. Preparatory work

The walls are cleaned of peeling paint, plaster, whitewash, wires, external switches are removed, lighting- anything that can interfere with work. brick and concrete surfaces check with a level, close up irregularities and cracks with a solution. Before insulating the walls, it is desirable to replace or insulate windows, seal the joints along the perimeter of the openings. Wooden walls must be cleaned of dust and moss, and then covered with 1-2 layers of antiseptic primer.

Step 2. Mounting the crate

The next step is performed if the insulation is mineral wool. For polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam plates and polystyrene foam, the crate is not mounted. Assemble the frame of the crate from a bar 60x80 mm or special aluminum profiles. The beam must be well dried, without dents, distortions, mold traces. Before installation, it is impregnated with an antiseptic primer mixture.

The bars are nailed to the wooden walls, they are fixed to the concrete or brick walls with the help of anchor dowels. The distance between the racks of the crate should be less than the width of the insulation by a couple of centimeters. This will allow you to insert the material as tightly as possible and avoid the formation of cracks.

Step 3. Fastening the thermal insulation layer

Plates mineral wool inserted between the bars, trying not to deform the corners. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer should not exceed the thickness of the beams. In cold regions, it is recommended to mount a double layer of insulation, choosing the appropriate thickness of the timber.

Polyurethane foam boards and polystyrene are fixed differently. First, along the wall, stepping back from the ground 10-15 cm, screw the thrust bar. Between themselves, the planks are overlapped, at the corners they are connected by a special profile. Styrofoam plates are applied to the wall, resting the lower edge against the bar. Each plate is fixed to the wall with fasteners with hats. In the second row of insulation, the plates must be shifted so that the seam falls in the middle of the bottom sheet.

Step 4. Finishing work

A reinforcing fiberglass mesh is glued onto the foam and polyurethane foam sheets. After that, decorative plaster is kneaded and the walls are finished. Instead of plaster, you can tile the walls. The use of mineral wool implies the arrangement of a ventilated facade, although certain types of mineral wool can also be plastered.

A polyethylene film or a special windproof membrane is fixed on top of the mineral wool. Fix it to the surface of the walls with a stapler. Then a horizontal crate of boards is nailed onto the crate of timber. Leave a small gap between the boards. After that, an end plate is installed along the outer perimeter of the house and the walls are sheathed with siding.

Insulation of the outer part of the foundation prevents heat leakage in the basement, reduces the formation of condensate on the basement walls, protects against dampness and mold development. As a heater, perlite-bitumen slabs, sheets of polyurethane foam and expanded polystyrene, foam glass, as well as sand and expanded clay are used.

Step 1. Foundation waterproofing device

It is most convenient to waterproof the foundation at the stage of building a house, otherwise you will have to dig a trench around the perimeter of the building. The foundation area is cleaned of soil, a primer with high adhesion is applied, and the surface is allowed to dry. Next, the foundation must be covered with two layers of liquid waterproofing. To do this, either a polymer mastic or a two-component cement mortar with a rapid hardening effect is used. Layers should be uniform, without gaps.

Video - Foundation waterproofing

Step 2. Fixing the insulation

The next stage is performed 5-7 days after applying waterproofing. Adhesive is used to fasten the heat-insulating layer, bituminous mastic or mushroom dowels. Insulation plates are lubricated with an adhesive solution and applied to the surface of the foundation. The seams are made as tight as possible, excess glue is immediately removed. After sheathing the entire area, a reinforcing mesh is glued over the insulation.

Step 3. Backfilling the foundation

applied to the reinforcing mesh cement plaster and level the surface. On the protruding part of the foundation, you can do decorative trim, for example, a "fur coat" from the same solution. After that, the trench is covered with sand, expanded clay or fine slag, sprinkled with earth on top and rammed. To avoid erosion, it is recommended to make a blind area with a width of 1 to 1.2 m. In areas where the groundwater level is too high, it is additionally required to equip a drainage system.

With the capital insulation of a residential building, one cannot ignore the veranda and other outbuildings. The wall with adjacent structures is unprotected, so a significant part of the heat escapes to the outside. Many verandas are built on columnar foundations, leaving space between the base of the extension and the ground, which also increases heat loss.

The thermal insulation of a closed veranda is in many ways similar to the insulation of a balcony or loggia. First, the outer walls of the extension are cleaned and leveled. A trench is dug along the perimeter with a depth of 40-50 cm, the space between supporting pillars close brickwork or sheets of slate. Styrofoam is glued to the slate, covered with a reinforcing mesh and plastered with cement mortar. After the plaster has dried, the trench is backfilled and rammed.

Then the surface of the walls is primed and the insulating material is attached with glue or dish-shaped dowels. Areas of contact with door and window openings are coated with sealant. From above, the thermal insulation is covered either with a crate of boards or a reinforcing mesh, and then the walls of the veranda are finished.

Thermal insulation of pipelines

Each house has pipes for water supply, sewerage, heating. Many of them are located outside the house and require mandatory insulation. The following materials are used for their thermal insulation:

• foil mineral wool;
• foamed polyethylene;
• basalt cylinders;
• penoizol;
• polyurethane foam.

It is especially important to properly insulate pipe sections at the exit from the soil and the entrance to the wall of the house.

This can be done in two ways.

1. Option one: mount a protective box around the pipeline and fill it with insulation.
2. Option two: cover the pipes with heat-insulating material, and wrap them with plastic wrap on top. At the joints, the film should be fixed with construction tape.

When insulating the walls and the pipelines included in them, it is necessary to ensure a tight and secure fit of the surfaces, it is best to foam the tie-in.

If all surfaces are insulated according to the rules, the effect will be noticeable almost immediately. Usually, external thermal insulation is enough to keep the house warm and comfortable. Internal insulation is performed only when, for some reason, it is not possible to perform it from the outside.

Video - How to insulate a house with foam

How to make wall insulation for a private house outside qualitatively, quickly and inexpensively? Is it possible to do this kind of work with your own hands? It should be noted that the important fact is that insulation from the outside is not only an improvement in the microclimate and the creation comfortable conditions residence. Such measures have purely economic reasons: the fact is that with high-quality insulation of the walls in the house from the outside, there is no need to use additional space heating systems (for example, electric heaters). This means that your electricity bills will be noticeably smaller. The savings will be tangible even if you heat your cottage with gas, because you do not have to use maximum power boiler or other gas equipment you have. Another important plus of carefully insulating the walls of housing with your own hands is that when low temperature coupled with high humidity, there is a high probability of the development of fungi, mold: and if the house is warm and dry, this risk is minimized.

Thermal insulation of the walls of a private household from the outside can be done both with the involvement of professionals and with your own hands. The choice of materials for modern market large enough, and every homeowner will be able to find an option that is optimal in cost. However, when choosing a material-insulation, it is necessary to focus not only on the cost, but also on other important points.

The first aspect of choice is the material from which the walls of your country house. For each type of insulation, individual installation methods are provided. And it may turn out that a certain type of insulation is suitable for your house, but it will not be possible to install it yourself, or it will be possible to insulate it only with the condition of additional surface preparation and, accordingly, with the involvement of additional finance (and the total amount may turn out to be more than you expected ). And in order to minimize both financial and temporary costs, you need to choose the insulation material very carefully.

It should be remembered that insulation for a private house from the outside will be the most effective. An undoubted advantage of thorough external insulation is that in this case the material will not reduce the living space of the premises, in addition, moisture does not accumulate in the rooms (there is no “sweating” effect).

External insulation is one of the most important aspects of the improvement of your home. Experts note that up to thirty percent of heat can escape through insufficiently insulated walls of a building. What materials should be preferred? There are many options, among which the most popular are:

• thermal insulation of the building with foam;
• thermal insulation with mineral wool;
• use as a heater "Penoplex" (extruded polystyrene foam) - only for the walls of the basement and basement.

External thermal insulation of a residential building with foam plastic

Styrofoam, without a doubt, is one of the most affordable, lightweight, and therefore very popular materials that are used to insulate walls for a house outside. In order to mount such a material-insulation, you do not need any complex additional devices: all the work can be done by hand. However, one should not forget about such a disadvantage of polystyrene as its instability to fire (it is a combustible building material).

Thermal insulation with foam plastic can be carried out in the following way. First of all, the surface is prepared: it is necessary that it be carefully leveled. Styrofoam is produced in the form of plates, and if such insulation is applied to uneven surfaces, voids will inevitably appear and, accordingly, it will be colder in the rooms than one would expect. Secondly, at mechanical action at the points of contact between the foam board and uneven wall the material can simply burst. It is also important to remember that an isolated space is a possible place for insects, moisture, etc. to accumulate. Therefore, it is very important to perform a thorough primer before starting to insulate the walls for a private house from the outside using polystyrene foam. If there are, for example, significant traces of whitewash on the walls, thermal insulation with foam insulation becomes less effective (glue may not “grab”).

After the outside walls are thoroughly washed and primed, it's time to proceed to the next step, namely, the installation of ebbs. They are leveled with a level on the horizon: this will allow you to later do the thermal insulation of the walls with foam plastic without additional cutting of the plates. Before laying the foam, put " starting bar"- a base that will prevent the plates from sliding off the walls. In addition, it will be much easier to follow the line during further installation. How the bottom plate is set will determine how even the entire row will turn out. When the building is thermally insulated from the outside with foam, the plates are mounted by hand using special glue. In the event that the walls in the house allow, after a few days you can additionally fix the material with nails.

Video with a master class on foam insulation:

If your house is built from a bar, you should additionally seal all the cracks: with mounting foam, mineral wool or other materials suitable for this purpose. It is important to eliminate drafts: without this, the insulation outside the residential building will not be as effective.

External insulation for the house with mineral wool

Thermal insulation outside a residential building can also be carried out using another popular material - mineral wool. If you have heard, for example, that the walls are insulated with “glass wool” or “ stone wool' is the same material. It is based on fiberglass. As a rule, special mineral wool slabs are used for external thermal insulation, and they are used to sheathe the facade.
For the installation of this type of plates, special fittings are used. To insulate the attic and the roof of the building, it is recommended to use Linerock wool. Its advantage is good flexibility, which means that in order to perform thermal insulation for the house outside, you do not have to carry out a thorough preliminary training surfaces.

The undoubted advantages of stone wool are:

• low thermal conductivity combined with high sound insulation;
• relatively low price;
• stone wool does not support combustion;
• it is not susceptible to damage by rodents, as well as the occurrence of mold and fungus;
• the material is vapor-permeable, the building "breathes";
• stone wool is easy to mount with your own hands: you can choose optimal view insulation - in rolls or mats;
• The material is environmental and safe.

External wall insulation for homeownership using stone wool is carried out in several stages. With the help of a plaster mixture, plates are glued to the wall surface. Next, the mineral wool is covered with another layer of the mixture, then a fiberglass alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh is installed, a primer is performed and, finally, finishing (painting, decorative plaster etc).

Video with a master class on warming with mineral wool:

Thermal insulation "Penoplex": we insulate the building from the outside with our own hands

As well as in cases with mineral wool or polystyrene foam, you can also carry out external thermal insulation of the walls of the building with the help of Penoplex with your own hands. Today, this material is very popular for independent thermal insulation of residential buildings.

Important! Only the basement and basement walls can be insulated with Penoplex. The fact is that this material does not allow water vapor to pass through it, tending from the living quarters to the outside, which can lead to the formation of fungus and mold.

Important advantages of "Penoplex" for thermal insulation of the building:

• the material is light, sufficiently warm and durable;
• extruded polystyrene foam is immune to moisture;
• the material is fire-resistant, practically does not burn when exposed to high temperatures;
• to mount it with the thermal insulation of the building with your own hands is easy and convenient.

The thickness of the "Penoplex" for thermal insulation of a residential building, according to modern standards, should be at least 5 centimeters. Laying this material produced in several stages:

• leveling of surfaces, elimination of cracks, primer;
• installation of "Penoplex" on a special glue, after 2-3 days - additional fixation of the material with dowels;
• gluing reinforced mesh;
• pre-finishing surface finishing;
• finishing of the facade with the use of facade plaster.

In order for the insulation of a residential building to be of high quality, do not spare money for the insulation material. If thermal insulation with polystyrene foam, "Penoplex" or stone wool has been carried out in compliance with all the rules, you will be able to provide the most comfortable atmosphere in your living quarters and, at the same time, reduce heating costs.

The essence of the question of how to insulate walls from the outside in a private house is not only familiarization with the technology of this process. Extremely important right choice insulating material. Therefore, before proceeding with the insulation of the house, you need to carefully study specifications proposed heaters and rules for working with them.

In order to choose the right way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, you need to take into account such important points as the climatic conditions of the region at the location of the house, the material from which it was built, the intended finish, the main purpose of the house. A country house, which is hardly used during the cold season, does not need to be insulated as carefully as a house or cottage for permanent residence.

Among the many materials offered, choose exactly the insulation for the walls of the house outside, which will be most effective in a particular case. The main technical characteristics of the material should be selected according to the above parameters. These are thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, vapor permeability, strength, biological and chemical stability and fire safety, as well as high insulation density.

The thickness of the selected material is determined according to the instructions and recommendations of GOST and SNiP. This takes into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, power heating system, size and number of window and doorways and some other criteria. Thinking about how to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, you should remember the following types of wall insulation:

• extruded polystyrene foam (EPS);
• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool;
• basalt slabs;
• cellulose insulation;
• liquid polyurethane foam.

Almost all heaters for the exterior walls of the house, except for the last one, do not require special skills when working with them. The technology for mounting them is quite simple and understandable to the average homeowner.

Preparation for wall insulation

To insulate the house outside with your own hands, you need to prepare the following set of tools:

• plumb lines and beacons;
• construction roulette;
• building level;
• technical knife;
• electric drill or hammer drill;
• drills and drills of the required size;
• a hammer;
• screwdriver;
• brushes and rollers.

Warming outside wooden house or any other begins with surface preparation. The exterior walls of the house must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and small debris. If the existing plaster or thermal insulation has become unusable, it is better to remove it by clearing the surface of the walls to the ground. The prepared wall must be primed using a deep penetration compound.

A special mesh will help to evenly lay the insulation for the walls outside. For its device, a thick thread is pulled along the upper edge of the wall. Plumb lines are hung to it. Horizontal threads are stretched between them, parallel to the upper thread. Such a grid will help to evenly equip the frame and lay the insulation.

Highlights of insulation work

First, the wall is covered with a vapor barrier material. Then a heater, on top of which a windproof film is laid. This film promotes the removal of moisture from the wooden wall and prevents its penetration from the outside. The last step is finishing. It can be decorative plaster, siding or other finishing material.

The insulating coating of the outer walls of the house is multilayer construction. Its main components, located on the surface of the walls, are:

• plaster;
• fixing primer;
• adhesive composition of high adhesive properties;
• actual heater;
• reinforcing putty or special glue;
• polymeric or mineral decorative plaster;
• acrylic paint.

In addition to the adhesive composition for fixing the insulation, the following are used:

• plastic dowels;
• metal cores with plastic insulated heads.

Warming in this way provides reliable protection from cold, moisture, steam. At the same time, the total weight of the structure is relatively small. Capabilities finishing practically unlimited. The main thing is that the insulated wall is absolutely even and can withstand a load of about 35 kg per 1 sq. m. When mounting such insulation, the main point is to protect the inner layers from moisture.

Another method of insulation is a hinged ventilated facade. In this case, an air cushion (gap) with a thickness of at least 6 cm must be left between the insulation and the wall of the house. Facing material in this case, it is mounted on a base of supporting profiles and brackets. This method does not require preliminary alignment walls.

Penoplex is a very easy-to-use, high-quality insulating material. For insulation of external walls, penoplex brand "31" or "35" is usually used. Prepared walls are covered with fresh plaster mixture on which foam sheets are glued. They need to be aligned using the grid described above and pressed lightly to improve adhesion.

An additional protective layer of plaster is applied over the insulation. The next layer is a mesh of alkali-resistant fiberglass. When the top layer of plaster dries, the walls are primed. Now you can start finishing work.

It is easy to insulate the house from the outside with penoplex with your own hands, the video material found on the Internet will help you see with your own eyes all the subtleties of this process.

Insulation with sandwich panels

Some homeowners still doubt whether it is possible to insulate the house from the outside using the so-called "sandwich panels". However, this material is gaining more and more popularity. This is a three-layer building structure, in which the insulation is located between two sheets of cladding. A house covered with sandwich panels does not require additional finishing. The panels themselves are resistant to corrosion, weathering and mechanical damage. The installation of this material is facilitated by a small specific gravity.

For the installation of wall sandwich panels you will need:

• sealants;
• flashings;
• corners;
• fixing material.

Sandwich panels are attached to the wall of the house using a frame made of wood or reinforced concrete. Docking of panels among themselves is provided with tongue-and-groove connection. Seams and joints are additionally sealed with special mastic, tape, gaskets or polyurethane foam. Mounting foam is poured into the end seams or mineral wool is laid. On top are special flashings. Around window and door openings, at the corners and joints with the basement, corner panels are placed or corner profiles are used.

Insulation under siding

Siding is one of the most popular and inexpensive modern materials for finishing a private house. To carry out such a finish correctly, you must first choose a heater for the walls of the house outside under the siding. This is also necessary in order to increase the service life of the building and its exterior finish. The main criteria for choosing an insulating material are the design of the house and the cost of the insulation. Most often, under the siding fit:

• fiberglass;
• penoplex;
• polyester foam;
• mineral wool.

Many homeowners prefer to insulate the house outside with mineral wool under the siding. It is a reliable, durable material with a low specific gravity. Mineral wool has such valuable characteristics as:

• environmental friendliness;
• thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance;
• soundproofing.

Mounting mineral wool, subject to certain rules, will not be difficult.

Installation of insulation under siding can be carried out in a budgetary way or using interframe insulation. Both options require advance preparation.

First, preparation outer surface walls. They need to be cleaned of old coatings, dust and debris. Wooden walls must be treated with an antiseptic or engine oil waste. After that, the wood should dry out. Therefore, work is best done in warm, dry weather.

The treated dried walls are covered with a waterproofing layer with an overlap (from 10 to 15 cm). It is fixed with a construction stapler. Scotch tape is applied at the joints.

Next, the crate is mounted on the walls. It can be a finished metal structure or homemade from wooden slats or bars. The distance between the rails is determined by the width of the insulation. It must be laid tightly without any voids. The crate is mounted perpendicular to the intended laying of the insulation.

Soft insulation is cut and placed between the elements of the crate. For its fastening, special "fungi" are used. Solid tiled insulation begins to be laid from the bottom up. The bottom slabs are laid 10 cm above the top edge of the plinth. Such a heater is attached with mounting glue.

A windproof coating is laid on top of the insulation. It is fastened with a stapler to the crate (a step of at least 50 cm) with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The connecting seams are glued with adhesive tape.

Next, another crate is mounted, on which the siding is attached. The elements of the upper crate are attached with a screwdriver to the lower structure perpendicularly. Thus, a ventilated gap of 0.2 to 3 cm is created, depending on the thickness of the bars. The second crate is mounted from elements of a smaller section. Its main purpose is to press the wind insulation to the insulation, and all structural elements to the wall surface. To protect against rodents, a fine-mesh metal mesh is applied over the foam insulation.

Now you can mount the siding - vinyl or metal. Vinyl panels are cheap but less durable. They require meticulous care. High price metal panels is fully justified by their strength, durability and reliability.

Solving the question of how to insulate wooden house outside with your own hands, begins with the construction of a primitive crate of wooden planks. They are installed vertically, the step between them is equal to the width of the insulation. The layers of insulation are attached to the slats of the frame with the help of special plastic dowels.

Warming a private house from the outside is a simple process. The main thing is to choose the right insulation and other materials, prepare everything you need in advance and follow the instructions exactly during work. A well-insulated house acquires additional strength.

When building a private house, both the developer and the future owner of the cottage should pay great attention to the issue of thermal insulation and ensuring comfortable living conditions even in the most severe cold. This fully applies to buildings from log cabin or a bar. But at the same time, such cottages have their own specifics, due to the material from which they are built. It cannot be ignored - otherwise it will negatively affect the durability of the walls and the finishing of buildings made of logs and timber. Therefore, it is not so easy to decide how to insulate a wooden house from the outside and with what, and you need to approach this matter in detail.

When carrying out measures for the installation of thermal insulation in a house made of timber or a log house, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of wood as a material. There are many of them, but the main ones are two - high vapor permeability and exposure to fungus and other microorganisms.

The first means that wood well absorbs and passes moisture through itself, both from the inside and outside. Accordingly, the insulation for a house built from a bar or a log house must have comparable vapor permeability indicators - otherwise the walls will gradually dampen, rot and become unusable. In addition, there is a need for a ventilation gap between the exterior finish and the insulation - without it, the latter will take in too much water and lose its thermal insulation qualities.

And the second feature of wood, associated with the susceptibility of the material to fungus and microorganisms, requires the mandatory treatment of all walls and parts of the thermal insulation system with antiseptic compounds, and in several layers.

Insulation of a private house can be divided into two types.

1. Internal when a layer of heat-insulating material is located on the side of the living quarters and is covered with drywall, clapboard or any other finishing material.
2. Outdoor when thermal insulation is located on the walls from the side of the street. From above, it is closed with a windproof film and external trim, which can be boards, siding, corrugated board, fake diamond etc.

Internal insulation in wooden houses is usually used when it is necessary to maintain appearance buildings under the tree. This usually refers to log cabins.

But at the same time, such a thermal insulation system has several disadvantages:

• decrease usable area residential premises;
• non-optimal position of the dew point, leading to the appearance of dampness and condensation;
• the gradual destruction of the walls with outside due to temperature fluctuations.

Therefore, external insulation looks like a more preferable option. Such a solution has the following advantages.

1. Saving living space- the insulation layer and the frame under it are located outside, which means you save a few square meters inside the house.
2. Dew point shift outside the walls of the house- with good external thermal insulation over the entire thickness of the wall from a bar or log house, the temperature will be above zero. Consequently, condensation will not fall on the wall from the inside, there will be less dampness, and the service life of the structures will be longer.
3. By shifting the dew point and using ventilated façade technology Significantly reduces the risk of mold and rot.
4. Walls made of timber or logs can serve as interior decoration, the original "texture" of a country cottage is preserved.

Due to these advantages, the article will focus on how to insulate a wooden house from the outside and what materials are suitable for this.

General device for external insulation of a wooden house

From the point of view of providing high-quality thermal insulation and preventing the appearance of dampness / condensation on the wall and in the insulation, the most preferred way to protect the house from the cold is to equip a ventilated facade. Regardless of the material used, the design is a "layer cake", consisting of the following elements:

• load-bearing wall of the house, made of timber or logs;
• frame for insulation, created from a bar or metal profile;
• a layer of heat-insulating material and fasteners under it;
• windproof membrane film or windproof plate;
• crate for exterior trim;
• exterior decoration of the house.

At the same time, a ventilation gap is formed between the insulation and the exterior of the wooden house due to the crate, which ensures effective removal of flags and reduces the risk of condensation and dampness.

Important! Special attention should be paid to such an issue as the presence of vapor barrier film between the wooden wall and the insulation. This film has long been the subject of controversy. Some craftsmen argue that a vapor barrier between the wall and the insulation is needed, otherwise the heat-insulating material will quickly become damp due to moisture coming from the house. Others hold the opposite opinion and say that the vapor barrier will disrupt the removal of moisture from the walls of the house, condensation will appear between it and the insulation, and then mold. Considering both of these opinions, it can be said that it is possible to install a film to protect the heat-insulating material from dampness, but only if there is good ventilation in the house and a gap between the vapor barrier and the wooden wall.

You can get acquainted with the materials used to insulate a wooden house from the outside from the table below and in the following sections of the article.

Table. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside - the main materials.

What material to choose for external insulation of a wooden house

Before proceeding with the insulation of a wooden house, you need to decide how to do it, that is, with what material. You can see the options available to most in the table from the previous section. These are mineral wool, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and ecowool. Let's consider them in a little more detail.

Mineral wool is a collection of many fibers obtained from melts of various rocks. As in cellulose wadding, between the fibers is a large number of air, due to which the material acquires its heat-insulating qualities.

The following advantages speak in favor of mineral wool as a heater for a wooden house:

• ease of installation;
• availability;
• resistance to combustion - mineral wool melts only at a very high temperature;
• vapor permeability at the level of wood;
• excellent heat and sound insulation qualities.

But it should be borne in mind that mineral wool absorbs moisture well and at the same time greatly loses its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, the outside of the insulation must be protected by a membrane windproof film.

A good option for warming a wooden house is Isoplat soft fiberboard. It is made "wet" from ground fiber of coniferous trees without the addition of glue and other chemical binders. Due to this, the plate works efficiently in a humid and cold climate and does not exfoliate from temperature changes. From above the plate is treated with paraffin to protect against atmospheric moisture. The Isoplat plate has a high rate of vapor permeability, which means it prevents dampening of the walls, the formation of fungus and mold. By thermal insulation properties 25 cm of material is comparable to 88 mm of solid wood. Isoplat also has a high sound insulation rate, which means that the house will become much quieter and more comfortable.

Insulation of a wooden house with Izoplat slabs

Other insulation options for a wooden house are polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Both are polymers, consisting of cells glued together with many pores and voids. The latter, filled with air, provide the material with high thermal insulation qualities. Extruded polystyrene foam is made using a slightly different technology than regular foam, due to which the material is denser, and its cells are smaller. The material itself becomes stronger, but at the same time retains its thermal insulation qualities.

Styrofoam insulation - no the best option for a wooden house, but many resort to this solution because of the cheapness of the heat-insulating material

However, both polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam have a serious drawback, due to which their use as a heater for a wooden house is doubtful - this is low vapor permeability. Moisture and water vapor through these materials penetrate very poorly. Therefore, if a wooden house is insulated with polystyrene foam, a humid environment will necessarily arise between the wall and the thermal insulation layer, favorable for the development of fungi, other microorganisms and, as a result, for rotting and damage to wood.

According to environmentalists, up to 40% of heat and electricity generated in the northern hemisphere is spent on heating residential, industrial and other facilities. For this reason, high-quality insulation of buildings brings tangible benefits in terms of financial savings and living comfort. One of the most popular heat insulators is (polystyrene foam, PPS).

Another option for insulation is ecowool. This material is obtained from paper and textile waste, converted into cellulose. But at the same time, it is supplemented with additives that protect the material from caking, rotting, burning and make it unattractive to insects and rodents. It has excellent thermal insulating qualities. But at the same time, the way it is laid differs from mineral wool and polystyrene - ecowool in liquid form is sprayed onto the surface wooden walls between the elements of the crate using special equipment. Then the material seizes, dries and becomes a very durable layer of thermal insulation. However, you need to understand that without the help of a specialist, it will be impossible to perform ecowool insulation.

Now that you know more about the materials used to insulate cottages made of timber or logs, let's start describing how the insulation process should be performed.

Video - Insulation of the walls of the house from the outside

Insulation of a wooden house with Izoplatom

It is very easy to insulate a wooden house with Isoplat. The plate is a dense, but at the same time elastic material. It is enough just to press it against the wall and nail it with nails with a wide flat hat. Isoplat firmly adheres to the base and does not allow the appearance of "cold bridges". A ventilated facade is installed on top of the slab. In addition, Isoplat slabs of 25 mm or more can be covered with plaster. Warming in this way can be done independently without the involvement of specialists. This is the fastest, easiest and most reliable option for warming a wooden house.

It is very easy to insulate a wooden house with Isoplat plates

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool

Consider how to perform one of the most popular ways to insulate a wooden house from the outside - using mineral wool slabs.

Calculation of the amount of insulation

Work begins with the calculation required amount insulation. To do this, calculate how many square meters of the house are in the surfaces to be sheathed with mineral wool. This problem is solved by the following algorithm.

Step 1. Calculate the height of the walls from the basement to the beginning of the gable. If one part of the house is one-story, and the second is two-story, perform calculations for them separately.

Step 2 Determine the perimeter of the walls by counting their length.

Step 3 Multiply the perimeter of the walls by the height and subtract the area of ​​the openings from the resulting figure - this will give you an approximate surface area to be insulated. But the calculations don't end there.

Step 4 Using the formulas for determining the area of ​​a triangle, calculate how many square meters are in your gables (if you are going to insulate them too), and sum the resulting figure with the result of the calculations from the previous step.

Determining the area of ​​a wall, a simple pediment in the form of an isosceles triangle and a pediment of complex shape (which is the sum of a trapezoid and a triangle)

Step 5 Determine what brand and size of mineral wool you choose. Divide the total area of ​​insulation by the area of ​​each separate plate insulation. Then increase the result by 10-15% for the reserve. The figure you received is the number of mineral wool slabs that will be needed for one layer of external insulation of a wooden house. At the same time, keep in mind that several insulation panels are sold in one package and, as a rule, it is written on them how many square meters this pack is designed for.

Mineral cotton wool ROCKWOOL Light Butts. In one such pack there are six plates with a thickness of 50 mm and with dimensions of 600x800 mm. Their total area is 2.88 sq. m.

Step 6 Determine how thick the insulation should be. As a rule, in southern regions this is 50 mm, in the middle lane - 100 mm, in Siberia and northern latitudes- 150 mm. If in your case it will be impossible to perform insulation in one layer, double the number of mineral wool slabs from the previous operation.

List of tools

First of all, you will need something with which you can cut and saw materials for the battens. If the frame for the insulation will be made of wood, this task will perfectly cope electric jigsaw with matching blade. But in the case when the crate is made of metal profile, it is better to give preference metal scissors.

Important! The use of a grinder for cutting a profile onto a frame for insulation is acceptable, but undesirable - in the process of such sawing, the external anti-corrosion coating is damaged, which significantly reduces the service life of the future structure.

Next, you will need a tool for screwing screws into wood or metal. Considering that the work on insulation is carried out with a house made of timber or logs, only screwdriver and bit set. Choose a tool with a battery - the wire will not hang under your feet and interfere.

Advice! Experienced craftsmen use a screwdriver with two batteries. While one is working, the other is charging. Then they change places, and a person gets the opportunity to install the crate for insulation without stopping and wasting time.

You will need hammer or rubber mallet.

One of the essential tools for construction works is a knife for cutting mineral wool. You will need it to open packages of mineral wool and to cut slabs of this material. Alternatively, you can use a construction knife with a retractable blade.

Fastening the windproof membrane film on the insulation crate requires construction stapler and a set of staples.

The crate under the insulation should be as straight as possible horizontally and vertically. It is almost impossible to achieve this by eye, so be sure to use building level and plumb.

The wall of the house itself from a bar or log house and all the wooden elements of the crate require the mandatory application of several layers of an antiseptic that protects the materials from decay. For this you will need container and roller. But if you want to do everything quickly - use spray gun for paint.

Both before and during the work on the insulation of a wooden house, the master may need to apply various marks, measure distances and create records. These tasks are successfully completed with the help of a pencil, several sheets of paper (or one notebook), a tape measure and a carpenter's square.

Laying mineral wool on a wooden frame

Let us first consider the most common option, when mineral wool is laid between the elements of the crate made of wooden beams.

Step 1. Prepare the walls - remove all protruding elements from their surface, if any. These can be shutters, ebbs, decorative details, etc. Then treat the wall with an antiseptic and flame retardant, preferably 2-3 times. Apply a new layer only after the previous one has completely dried.

Important! When working with a log house, pay special attention to the processing of corners and end parts logs - they are the most susceptible to the effects of fungi and other microorganisms.

Step 2 Make a crate. For her, take the highest quality timber, in this case, products with a section of 30x30 mm are used. Wood should not show signs of fungus or rot. First, install the upper and lower bars, secure them with galvanized self-tapping screws (it is undesirable to use others due to corrosion). Then install horizontal elements crates, between which mineral wool of the first layer will be laid. The interval between the beams should be approximately 5 mm less than the height of the insulation plate - this is necessary to more tightly fix the material and eliminate gaps.

Step 3 On top of the first "layer" of the crate, fix the second, where the elements are arranged perpendicularly. In this case, they are mounted vertically. Also, do not forget to fix the bars around the perimeter of window and door openings.

Step 4 Unpack and prepare the mineral wool boards. If necessary, cut them into pieces for installation around openings and in other places where full-sized insulation elements will not fit. Install the plates between the elements of the crate of the first layer, make sure that they hold tightly there. Fix them with dish-shaped dowels. Then, following the same principle, lay the plates of the second layer of insulation. It is desirable that they overlap the horizontal seams between the mineral wool sheets of the previous layer.

Step 5 Lay and secure a windproof membrane over the insulation. Joint its separate segments with each other with an overlap of about 10 cm (as a rule, a special marking is applied to the film for this). Attach the membrane to the crate with a construction stapler, and close the joints with a special adhesive tape. When working with windproof film, pay special attention to openings that also need to be covered.

Step 6 On top of the windproof film on the wooden elements of the insulation crate, fasten thick slats on which the exterior finish of the house will be held.

Step 7 Lay the exterior trim on the mounted rails. In this case, boards are used for this. Then install other protruding elements such as window and rain shutters, shutters, slopes, decorative details and more.

Laying mineral wool on brackets

Now consider another option for external insulation of the house. Here, mineral wool is not attached to the crate, but to metal brackets.

Step 1. Prepare the walls - treat them with an antiseptic and flame retardant. Then unpack the mounting brackets and calculate how many you need.

Step 2 Fasten the metal brackets to the wall using two long roofing screws with press washers. Since the house will subsequently be finished with siding, the fasteners are arranged in increments corresponding to the interval between the elements of the crate for vinyl panels.

Important! To ensure better sound and heat insulation, place small pieces of paronite under the part of the brackets that touches the wood.

Step 3 Unpack the mineral wool, check the quality of the insulation and prepare it for installation.

Step 4 Install mineral wool boards on the walls. To do this, put them on the brackets mounted in the previous stages of work. Holes for this can either be pushed through by the fasteners themselves, or cut with a knife.

Step 5 For better fixation, screw the dish-shaped dowels evenly over the area of ​​each individual plate.

Step 6 Repeat the previous two operations for all walls and gables of the house.

Step 7 Lay a windproof film over the insulation layer. Secure it with an overlap with dish-shaped dowels.

Step 8 Using a knife or scissors, cut slotted holes in the windproof film through which the ends of the brackets should pass.

Step 9 Prepare, cut and fix on the brackets with self-tapping screws the vertical and horizontal elements of the crate from the metal profile. At the same time, it is very important to achieve the evenness of each individual rack or beam, using a plumb line and a building level.

Step 10 On the crate, equipped in the previous operation, install the outer trim. In this case, these are vinyl siding panels.

With a competent approach to business, the external insulation of a wooden house will provide you with coziness and comfort of living in a new place.

To achieve maximum efficiency, you need to choose the right insulation.

First you need to decide how you can insulate the room in the case I am describing. The most common materials for wall insulation outside:

1. Styrofoam;
2. polyurethane foam;
3. Minvata.

In my opinion, all the types of insulation listed above are suitable for work in one way or another, but I will insulate the house of a friend with mineral wool. My choice is due to several advantages of the material, which are described in the table below:

Mineral wool TechnoNIKOL Technolight extra is most suitable for my work. It has a low density, so it retains heat well. Installation will be carried out in a crate, so you do not need to worry about strength. The dimensions of the mats are 1200 by 60 mm, the thickness is 50 mm. Two layers of insulation will be installed.

The price of the material, although a little high, but the technical characteristics and performance properties will not make you regret your choice.

Choosing a place for installing a heat-insulating layer

Initially, you need to decide how best - from the inside or outside - to fix the mineral wool. In this article I will talk about the second type - external insulation and give some of the subtleties of the technology.

Of course, how to fix the mineral wool - from the inside or outside: which is better is up to you. But, in my opinion, the only negative in external insulation is the loss of decorative functions by the facade. log house. But I will fix this with the help of a block house mounted on top of the insulation.

Necessary materials and tools

1. Wooden blocks with a section of 5 by 5 cm. I will need a lot of them. These lumber will be used to construct two layers of battens, as well as to equip a ventilation gap to remove moisture from the surface of the insulation.
2. Hydro and windproof membrane. It is installed on top of the insulation and protects the latter from getting wet and frayed by drafts blowing in the ventilation gap. You can buy products from Juta, Strotex or the same TechnoNIKOL. The vapor permeability of the film must be at least 1300 mg/(m*h*Pa).
3. Screws and self-tapping screws for fixing the lathing on the surface of wooden walls.
4. Block house or other material with which you are going to perform external decorative wall decoration.

As for tools, the most important are a screwdriver, with which screws will be wrapped, a knife for cutting mineral mats, measuring devices(tape measure and level) and staples with a stapler. Everything else is trifles, which I will discuss further in the future.

Work order

And now let's look at how to insulate the walls in a private house from the outside. All necessary actions can be divided into several stages dependent on each other, which are presented in the illustration below.

Now in more detail about each stage separately.

Stage 1 - Preparing the walls

Before installing insulation for the walls of the house outside, it is necessary to properly prepare the external surfaces of the walls. This is done in this way:

1. I cleaned the timber walls from dust and debris that had accumulated over two years of operation. The main thing is to remove decorative finishes from surfaces that prevent air infiltration through walls (for example, oil paint). After that, it is advisable to vacuum the walls to remove dust from the interventional cracks.

1. Performed wall repairs. This must be done if the dwelling is not new, but has already been used for a certain time. There are two important points:
   • Be sure to get rid of traces of mold and fungus. For this, there are special fungicidal compounds. They need to treat damaged areas in accordance with the instructions printed on the label.
   • Sections of the beams that are already severely rotted need to be repaired or replaced. For this there are special technologies, which are described in the articles on this portal. If the need arises, you can check it out.

1. Primed the timber with an antiseptic. It is best to use a specialized composition for this purpose (for example, Neomid OZP Prof), which contains both antiseptic substances and fire retardants. Thus, it is possible to increase fire safety wooden building. Processing is carried out as follows:
   • First, with the help of a roller, all walls should be treated with a primer. You can use the composition, half diluted with water. This is necessary so that the wood absorbs the antiseptic better.
   • After that, a second layer of primer is applied. In this case, it is better to use a maklovitsa, which is convenient to rub the antiseptic liquid.

Having prepared the walls in this way, you can proceed to the installation of insulation.

Stage 2 - Installation of insulation

The heat-insulating material in the case described by me is installed in two layers perpendicular to each other. In the same way, the crate is mounted. The exact sequence of actions is as follows:

1. I treat the bars of the crate with an antiseptic. For work, you can use a primer, which covered the walls on preparatory stage. After processing, lumber must be completely dried before further use.
2. The first row of battens is mounted. They are fixed to the walls with black or galvanized self-tapping screws. There are a few features here that I would like to mention:
   • I fix the first row vertically, and the second horizontally. In this case, it is easier to attach the waterproofing membrane later. Although the order of installation of the crate for mineral wool does not play a big role.
   • First, two extreme beams are mounted, which are carefully set along building level so that they stand absolutely vertically without deviations in one direction or another. They will serve as reference points for the rest of the frame elements.
   • If it is necessary to level the wall under the beam, wooden wedges can be placed, which are then fixed with a self-tapping screw screwed into the beam.
   • The intermediate elements of the crate can be oriented along pre-stretched cords, which will mark the location of the outer cut of the bar.
   • The distance between adjacent elements of the crate is 58 cm. Due to this, the purchased TechnoNIKOL mineral mats, which are 60 cm wide, will fit tightly into the place intended for them without additional trimming.

1. Installing insulation material. As I said above, it will be mineral wool 5 cm thick (so as not to rise above the crate) and 60 cm wide (to fit tightly between adjacent frame elements). You need to act according to the following scheme:
   • The mineral mat should dry slightly in the middle, and then install it on the wall, placing it between the elements of the supporting frame. As soon as you remove your hand, the insulation will straighten itself out and take its place.
   • If you need to cut off cotton wool, then this is best done with a sharp clerical knife or a file with small teeth.
   • If instead of dense mineral mats you use wool in rolls, it must be additionally fixed to the timber using screws with wide caps or U-shaped fasteners that are installed on the side surfaces of the battens of the crate.

1. I seal gaps between mineral mats. This must be done using polyurethane glue, which, after hardening, glues the individual fibers together. basalt wool and eliminates the formation of cold bridges in the seams. A few small nuances:
   • Polyurethane foam should be applied with a mounting gun so that it fills the entire joint - from the wall to the surface.
   • After solidification, the excess material must be cut off, otherwise there will be problems with the installation of the second layer of insulation.

1. I mount the second row of battens. There will be no particular difficulties here, since it is not necessary to perform. Features are as follows:
   • The bars are fixed perpendicular to the previous layer at the same distance from each other (60 cm).
   • You need to fasten the details of the crate with the help of self-tapping screws. If you need to use several bars in one row, then they should be fixed with a small gap to compensate for the possible thermal expansion of the wood.
2. I insert a second layer of insulation into the crate. The order of work is no different from the sequence of actions described in paragraph 3. Installing a heater in two layers makes it possible to arrange the seams interspersed, protecting the home from the appearance of cold bridges that reduce the effectiveness of thermal insulation measures.

1. I seal the seams of the second row of the crate with polyurethane foam. Despite the location of the seams described above, I still advise you not to neglect this stage and blow out the gaps between the individual mineral mats with mounting foam. In this case, it also needs to be cut off, since a waterproofing film will be mounted on top.

After laying the second layer of insulation, you can proceed to finishing operations. We are talking about the installation of a waterproof vapor-permeable membrane and a block house (or other type of cladding).

Stage 3 - Waterproofing and Exterior Finishing

For waterproofing in the case I am describing, I will use the TechnoNICOL vapor-permeable membrane. And in order to hang a block house on top - an external crate made of galvanized profile, fixed on U-shaped perforated brackets.

The technology for performing the work is as follows:

1. I unfold and fix the waterproofing membrane. This seemingly simple operation has several important nuances to which I consider it my duty to draw your attention:
   • Roll waterproofing film it is installed horizontally and attached to the battens with a stapler with staples or wide-head nails.
   • It is necessary to start work from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving up.
   • Each next sheet of waterproofing should be placed so that its edge runs over the previous sheet at a distance of 10 cm.
   • After fixing all the strips of the waterproofing film, it is necessary to seal the seams. For this, a two-sided duct tape placed inside the overlap. You can replace it with ordinary tape, which glue the joints of the membrane.

1. I install a crate for mounting decorative material. These will be galvanized drywall profiles. The structure is attached as follows:
   • To wooden bars perforated brackets are screwed through the waterproofing membrane so that later the profile can be mounted vertically (since the lamellas of the block house are fixed horizontally).
   • The vertical distance between the brackets is 60 cm (corresponds to a horizontally fixed mineral wool crate). Horizontally - 40-50 cm. Although last value largely depends on the decorative material you choose.
   • I bend the legs of the profile, after which I install the galvanized profile so that a gap of 5 cm is formed between its surface and the surface of the waterproof membrane. It is necessary to remove condensed moisture. Brackets are convenient in that with their help it is easy to adjust the position of the crate by screwing self-tapping screws into a particular hole.

1. I mount decorative material. In my case, this is a block house, the individual lamellas of which are connected to each other using a system of spikes and grooves, and fixed to the crate with small self-tapping screws.

Then all that remains is to paint or varnish the block house, and then enjoy the calm country rest in a warm and cozy wooden cottage.

Summary

Now you know how to do-it-yourself insulation of a timber-framed private house with mineral wool. If we are talking about mineral blocks or reinforced concrete, basalt mats can be replaced with polystyrene foam. The technology of its installation is described in the video in this article.

You can leave your opinion about the information presented in the material in the comments below.