What is a clay mash. Healing talker for garden trees. Damaged apple bark - what to do
How not to harm in an attempt to rejuvenate a tree?
How to make a rejuvenating pruning? Such questions often concern beginner summer residents, because sometimes, when purchasing a summer cottage, you get old fruit trees of good, favorite varieties as a load. Cutting down such a colossus is not easy, and it’s a pity, but it’s still a long time to wait for a new harvest from newly planted trees.
You can restore good fruiting by rejuvenating pruning, i.e. limiting the growth of the tree in length and width.
Usually, gardeners, for their convenience, simply shorten the crown of apple trees, without thinking that the leading branches should be transferred to the side ones. Some strong branches that thicken the center of the crown should be cut into a ring or bent and secured in such a position that top part crowns opened and "breathed".
No need to rush to remove several thick branches at once, this can lead to unnecessary tops and wounds, which will then be difficult to heal. Untreated wounds on the tree will inevitably lead to freezing, disease and crop loss.
We call rejuvenating pruning chasing. It is better to carry out this procedure in more than one year, and ideally it is better to choose a lean season, because. an old or thickened fruit tree still needs both sanitary pruning and simple thinning of the crown.
Sick, damaged branches and shoots must be removed in the spring before the onset of sap flow. At the same time, it is good to lower the crown. Each gardener has in his arsenal a tool for smearing saw cuts, it is advisable to spray the wound with a disinfectant solution.
I usually use a weak solution of copper sulfate, then I let the saw cut dry and cover it with garden pitch. I noticed that someone paints saw cuts with ordinary paint based on drying oil - this is not the best way, because over time, the wound can leak and grow. All anti-aging pruning work is best done on a clear, not overcast day.
Trees weakened after pruning first of all need top dressing and mulching trunk circles, be sure to spray from diseases and pests, because while your apple tree or pear was without the attention of the owners, most likely it was subject to both.
There is also forced pruning of trees - this is when in winter the branches broke off under the weight of snow, then it is necessary to cut down the broken branch and treat the wound; it is desirable that there is no severe frost and the trunk is dry.
If upon purchase suburban area your hands dropped from the sight of neglected or old apple trees, do not lose heart! Just choose a time in very early spring, find a reliable stepladder, process saws, hacksaws and secateurs with potassium permanganate and slowly start rejuvenating your already fruit trees. If the previous owners once planted this variety and for so many years they have not cut down a tree, then there is no doubt that the variety is excellent, just save it - and you will be rewarded with your first harvest!
Healing talker for trees
Proper and timely care of fruit trees is a guarantee good harvest. Therefore, already in early spring I smear the trunks of my trees with medicinal talker.
Slices are best covered with pitch. And the wounds and cracks are just a talker. I do this procedure to prevent sunburn and heal frost cracks.
So, I take clay, dilute it with water and insist for at least two days so that all the lumps in the solution get wet, periodically stir. Then I filter through a grid with cells 7 × 7. I add fresh to this talker horse dung(half a bucket of clay - half a bucket of manure) and stir again.
Finally, I add 100 g of copper sulfate (about a glass) and mix thoroughly again. This mixture is easy to take with a trowel, brush, it sticks well, does not slip when applied even in a thin or thick layer. If there are large wounds on the trunk, then after treatment with a talker I wrap them with a bandage in one layer, and once again I pass through the bandage with a brush.
My dacha neighbor adds lime and 1/2 a bar of tar soap to such a talker. A very effective tool!
One of the most important agrotechnical practices on the site of a gardener-gardener is the whitewashing of trunks in the autumn and spring. To whitewash trees in autumn and spring (before and after winter) means to protect them from the difference in night and day temperatures, thaws and frosts, burns from the scorching sun, and pests.
The main functions of whitewashing trees in the fall (soon with them "on the nose") are to increase productivity, reflect the rays of the sun, repel rodents, while the spring one protects the bark of trees from burns and is used as a preventive measure against pest invasion.
From the correct work carried out to prepare the trunks for whitewashing, it will depend on how high-quality and resistant the applied solution will be. Therefore, when carrying out preparatory work, no step can be ignored.
Cleaning branches and trunk by hand
The work of cleaning the trunk from lichens, growths, mosses and lagging bark is best done after the rain has passed. Hand cleaning only, gloves should be worn on hands.
Attention!
To clean the bark, it is not advisable to use metal and plastic scrapers, washcloths, brushes. When you press the brush, the sharp bristles dig into the plant tissue of the tree and damage it.
On the trunk of plants, you can often find cracks, pits and depressions in which dirt accumulates and moss grows. Necessary with a pointed splinter or wooden knife gently clean the bark of dirt. Harder formations still have to be removed with a metal knife, with mandatory further processing before whitewashing the wounds with putties.
Tree bark disinfection
To carry out work on the disinfection of the bark, it is required to wait for dry weather. If rains are predicted, there will be no sense in processing, you should not even take it.
For spraying use "OxyHom", "Hom", "Bordeaux mixture" is also suitable. Can be processed 3% blue vitriol, for the preparation of which the substance in the amount of 300 g is thoroughly stirred until completely dissolved in 10 liters of water. During spraying, the solution should not be allowed to flow to the ground in streams. It must remain on the trunk, otherwise it will not be of any use.
A special solution is also prepared for disinfection: 600 g of copper or copper is diluted in 10 liters of water. iron sulphate and this solution requires fine processing. It should be noted that the annual spraying of iron and copper chemicals can weaken plants and lead to their death. The whole point is that these drugs accumulate in the soil near the trees and in the bark, they do not dissolve and do not decay. Therefore, it is worth changing disinfectant solutions annually.
Copper sulfate can be alternated with an ash-soap or pure ash solution for processing.
Treatment with a solution with ash and soap
To prepare the remedy you will need:
- 10 liters of hot water;
- 50 gr. soaps;
- 2 kg wood ash.
Needs to be diluted in water laundry soap and wood ash, tie an unnecessary rag into a bundle, dip in the resulting solution and coat the trunk and base of the lower branches of trees with it. The ash-soap solution is also good because, having disinfecting properties, it is also a fertilizer that enriches with useful substances.
Ash liquor treatment
To prepare the drug you will need:
- Sifted ash - 2 kg;
- a bucket of water.
Pour the sifted ash into a container with water, stir, dissolving the lumps, and, bringing to a boil, leave to cool completely. During this time, the ash lye will settle and will be on the surface. It happens as a cloudy or transparent liquid, which must be filtered, diluted with water (1: 2) and treated with tree trunks. Since the product can cause allergies, hands should be protected. rubber gloves.
Covering wounds and cracks in trees before whitewashing
In preparation for the disinfection of trees, you can notice small pits and cracks on the trunks and branches. They appear as a result of damage by rodents, pests, are formed under the influence of scorching rays, temperature changes and severe frosts, alternating with thaws.
Effective putties
To cover cracks, gardeners use purchased funds and hand-made putties.
garden var
We buy putty in the store, but "free artists" can cook it with their own hands, and it will be no worse than purchased.
Components:
- Rosin - 100 gr.;
- beeswax - 200 gr.;
- unsalted fat "lard" - 100 gr.
On medium heat, heat up separate containers wax and rosin. Then you need to combine them, add fat and heat the mixture until it dissolves. The hot liquid is then quickly poured into cold water. Naturally, it spreads over the surface. It needs to be collected by hand and rolled into one lump. At ready mix long shelf life - up to 10 years. For greater plasticity, garden pitch is heated before use, since when the temperature drops, the mixture tends to harden and interact poorly with the surface of the tree.
Clay talker
A reliable tool used since ancient times to cover cracks. It is prepared from pure clay, or from a mixture that includes clay, manure, lime, blue vitriol, diluted so that it becomes the same as thick sour cream. For example, a recipe for making clay talker: you need to take clay, cow dung, chopped straw in the ratio of 200 gr. / 100 gr. / 20 gr. All components are diluted in water, and chopped straw is added as much as necessary to thicken the mash. Putty prepared in this way retains its protective properties many years, does not crumble and does not crack.
Pasta "RanNet"
The name itself suggests that there will be no wounds after treatment. And indeed. Pasta has proven itself and is appreciated by many gardeners and summer residents. It can not only cover up cracks, but also process cuts after cutting branches. Unlike Var, it does not freeze in the cold and is applied with a brush.
The paste contains humate and copper sulfate, so spend additional processing containing similar elements will not be required. Since the paste does not tolerate moisture well, being moisture-permeable, processing is recommended in dry weather. Its downside is that over time it is washed away by rains.
Whitewashing trees in autumn and spring
Trees should be whitewashed only after cleansing the trunk, disinfecting the bark and covering up cracks and wounds. Trunks and one third of the length of the lower skeletal branches. The procedure should be carried out annually: in autumn and spring. There are different opinions regarding the time of whitewashing trees, but the autumn one is the main one, and the spring one is the fixing one.
A suitable month for whitewashing in the autumn is October or, depending on the weather, November. Renewal whitewashing is carried out in early-late March. It is recommended to whiten the plants again, in the middle of summer. But this procedure is only a recommendation. If the whitening composition is cracked, washed off by rain, it is still worth updating the trees with fresh ones.
What to bleach?
As for young seedlings and mature trees, then both need to be whitewashed. Many gardeners do not support the idea that young trees need to be whitewashed. They argue that lime damages the young bark and prevents the trunk from growing in breadth. The issue remains controversial to this day. Naturally, if young trees are whitewashed with a highly concentrated solution, it will negatively affect the bark. Therefore, for whitewashing new seedlings, it is recommended, when preparing the solution, to reduce the concentration of lime by 2 times or increase the amount of water, also by 2 times. In addition to lime, you can use water-based paint. Each gardener must decide for himself what will bring more harm: either a whitening solution, or adverse weather conditions.
Preparing the bleach solution
To obtain a reliable protective layer, at least two treatments are required. The thickness of the whitening composition on the tree trunk should reach 2 mm. The solution should not contain grains and be too rare, as it will flow down the trunk and will not be useful.
To prepare a bleaching composition, add to 1.5-2 kg of slaked lime:
- Oily clay - 1 kg;
- a bucket of water (10 l);
- copper sulfate - 250 gr.;
- if desired, you can add cow dung (1 shovel).
Combine all ingredients and mix until completely dissolved. It is necessary to apply a thick mixture on tree trunks to a height of 1 m (a little more, depending on the growth of the tree) from the ground.
For many summer residents, especially urban ones, the issue of saving their time is of increased interest, so it costs nothing to resort to the help of special garden paint sold in stores for whitewashing trees.
Comparative characteristics of store whitewash
For comparison, you can take 6 types of garden whitewash from different manufacturers:
1. Acrylic whitewash "GreenSquare" from PKF Palisade LLC.
2. Silver biomask "Robin Green" based on white clay from the company "Fasco".
3. Lime whitewash with copper sulphate from PKF August LLC.
4. Acrylic paint for garden trees from LLC "Concord Ost".
5. Acrylic paint for garden trees from Blis LLC.
6. Lime whitewash "Gardener" with blue vitriol from Fasco LLC.
Having tested all garden whitewashes on different trees we can draw the following conclusion: acrylic paints are the most resistant. When applied to a tree trunk, the surface is snow-white. Acrylic paints provide better protection against sun rays. Can be applied in one layer. During the winter, the paint does not wear off and does not crack, therefore, in spring time does not require reapplication. The disadvantage of paint is poor breathability, so it is not recommended to whitewash young trees.
As for eco-friendly whitewashes, which are based on clay and lime, one thing can be said: they need to be applied 2 times a year. The first whitewash - in the fall (main), the second whitewash - in the spring (fixing). Lime whitewash reflects the sun's rays well, but is washed off over time. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out secondary whitewashing of trees. A big plus of eco-friendly whitewash is that they pass air well, the trees "breathe".
Some summer gardeners prefer acrylic paints, other - lime mortars. Each owner has the right to choose for himself the type of whitewash that he considers reliable. The choice is yours.
Important!
It is impossible to whiten unprepared bark. The composition gets into the cracks, which leads to cracking of the bark and lagging behind the wood. Exposed plant tissue is more exposed to sunlight and insect infestation than a healthy tree trunk.
Protective operations should be carried out regularly. Whitewashing trees in autumn and spring will increase their resistance to diseases, which, in turn, will have a positive effect on palatability fruits and increased yields, and the trees will definitely be healthy and live longer.
Immersion of the roots in a clay mash is not a whim of agronomists. This technique is necessary to prevent drying of the roots, to facilitate transportation. Improve contact with the soil, and the stimulant and trace elements introduced into it will improve rooting. In general, if the weather is cloudy outside, then the seedlings in a clay mash do not dry out for up to seven days or even more.
Preparing a chatterbox is easy. A hole is dug in the garden, one or two bayonets of a shovel deep. A couple of buckets of water are poured into it and clay and earth are gradually rolled off the walls with a shovel, evenly shoveling the mixture until the consistency of sour cream is obtained. After that, one-two bags of Kornevin and 0.5 l of ash are added to one pit, everything is thoroughly mixed again.
Mineral fertilizers can also be added. But here it is important to observe the dosage, which is problematic in such a pit, so it’s better not to risk it. It remains only to evenly dip the roots of the seedlings into the talker and, shaking them a little, take them out to shady place. The roots in the mash do not dry out for a long time, so you can take your time with rags and bags.
Chatterbox is useful not only for trees and shrubs, but also for raspberries and strawberries. Only for them the talker should be cooked thinner.
A wound on an apple tree - saw cut, peeled areas of the bark or lacerated damage as a result of breaking off a branch - is open door for pests, bacteria, infections, fungi. Untreated damage heals for a long time, which negatively affects the fruiting of the apple tree, the processes of formation of new shoots. For this reason, no, even the most insignificant damage to the tree should not be ignored, it is better to cover it up. You will learn how to properly disinfect, lubricate saw cuts and trimmings from this review. Measures should be taken as soon as possible - in this case, you will have time to prevent the development of serious diseases in time.
When cuts are formed: if you cut down the old deadwood, damaged branches
The main reasons for the formation of sections:
- crown formation- in order for apple trees to bear fruit and grow well, they need to be properly shaped, but after pruning, defects often appear on the bark and branches.
- Removing old branches- when cutting branches from trunks, wounds are almost always formed that need to be properly disinfected and treated with special protective equipment. Read about how to prune an apple tree in spring.
- Rejuvenation- the same pruning, but for mature trees. Any traumatic events (and with rejuvenation, the volume of removal of branches, shoots is significant) can cause cuts.
Pruning trees and covering up wounds special means do not take place on the same day. Wait a few days until the cut dries, and proceed to smearing.
Processing time
The terms for covering slices on apple trees depend on the time of year and the current weather conditions. So autumn is in season heavy rains sections dry out badly and for a long time - sometimes you have to wait at least a week for the wound to stop getting wet, and it can be fully processed. Sunny warm weather saw cuts dry up in just a couple of days.
During summer pruning it is necessary to remove only very young, not yet stiff shoots. Sections of small diameter quickly heal themselves and do not need special treatments. At low temperatures air, wounds practically do not heal at all, even with proper treatment.
In winter, cuts are not processed at all.
Sections, the diameter of which does not exceed 2.5 cm, are disinfected, but not covered with anything. They tighten themselves and quickly enough, they do not pose a danger to the tree. With saw cuts more than 3 cm in diameter, they work strictly according to plan - immediately after trimming, the wound is cleaned of roughness, burrs with a sharp garden knife, the saw cuts are smeared with a brush special solution, which will disinfect the wound and protect it from bacteria and infections. Then the cut is left to dry for several days, after this period, they are treated with a special tool, without affecting the bark of the tree along the extreme parts of the cut. If rodents damaged the bark in winter, it cracked due to temperature fluctuations or received sunburn, treatment is carried out in the spring (the temperature must be above zero). Damaged areas are cleaned to healthy wood, then processing is carried out in the same way as after seasonal pruning.
Means for processing: what you can choose, how to cover
Consider what means are used for spraying saw cuts, and which ones are used for smearing.
Also, in places of unprotected cuts, the branch may begin to dry out - this process begins due to a violation of sap flow, resulting in nutrients those sections of the branch that are located above the damage area do not reach.
Clay talker
To prepare a clay mash, use part of the mullein, two parts of clay and a little hay or straw. All this is stirred, diluted with water to the consistency of sour cream.
cement mortar
To make a cement mortar, take 3 parts of fine sand and a part of cement, mix with water and add drying oil. You can use the tool, including for covering deep cracks, wounds. Since water-based, oil paints over time, washed away by rain, they need to be updated.
Putties are applied only to damaged areas wood, while the edges of the bark must be clean - otherwise a bark roller will not form, which will tighten the wound.
Unprotected wounds on the bark are prone to cracking, sometimes the cracks are very deep. In the place where the cut has damaged the tree bark, a hollow may form. To use a mullein and clay talker, garden pitch, oil paints on natural drying oil, cement mortars, water-based coloring compositions, as well as balm-lacquer, which is also called artificial bark.
Garden pitch, how to cover up / cover up correctly
Garden pitch can be bought ready-made or made independently from fat, rosin, wax.
Wax, which contains var, does not allow air to pass to the tree, so the putty does not drain over the wounds. Cost from 50 rubles. for packing.
Due to the fact that the rosin is sticky, the var is securely connected to the wood, and the fat prevents the putty from cracking. You can replace fat with vegetable oil or drying oil, wax on turpentine. To prepare the solution, take one part fat, rosin and two parts wax.
Melt wax, fat, rosin first, then mix, slowly pour the mass into cold water. When the mass hardens, remove it, mix in the same way 20 parts of paraffin, 1 drying oil, 4 rosin or wax and rosin 2 parts each, turpentine 1 part. You can add ashes to the garden var, do the work away from the fire. Before applying to the cut, the garden pitch is slightly heated - this is necessary to make it softer. Apply the mass on the bark in a very thin layer - like a film. If do thick layer putty, then the wood underneath will begin to rot over time.
If juice flows after cutting branches
If the sap oozes from small cuts that you didn't cover up, the pruning was done very late and the wounds simply didn't heal before the sap started flowing. This is not harmful for a tree, but small branches, hearth buds can dry out. You can partially protect the tree by making a clay liquid talker and smearing all the wounds with it, including the smallest ones. If the juice flows from several large sections, it means that you have not hermetically sealed, foamed, or painted the damage. Clean the surface with improvised means and do it all over again. Do the work on lubrication with high quality - otherwise, they will be of no use.
To better fix the putty on the branch, use a bandage - they wrap the damaged area around it.
If the cut on the branch turned black
In cases where the cut was not processed in a timely manner, various pathogens settle on it. If no action is taken, the disease will spread to other branches and take large area. Blackening - characteristic symptoms and .
First, individual shoots dry out, and then the tree dies. Moreover, even neighboring crops in the garden can suffer. During treatment, it will be necessary to cut off all damaged parts, going to healthy areas of bark and wood. Treat the cut with Bordeaux liquid 3% if the leaves have not yet blossomed, and 1% if the growing season has begun. Let the cuts dry, then cover with diluted clay or garden pitch. The treatment is repeated if the disease continues to progress. Read about soot fungus on an apple tree.
But how to remove moss from an apple tree can be understood from the content in.
When blackening the sections, not only the damaged areas are sprayed, but the entire apple tree as a whole.
If the cut of the apple tree rots
Cut rot usually indicates an infection with tinder fungus spores. Spores are carried by the wind, and an open cut is a fertile place for infection and damage. The branch is cut entirely, then the cut area is checked. If the wood is healthy after stripping, it means that the disease did not have time to penetrate deeply. The diseased branch is burned, the cut is carefully disinfected and covered with pitch. In the event that the saw cut wood is dark and soft, the tinder fungus most likely hit the entire tree, and it is too late to take action. To prevent the disease from spreading to trees in the garden, cut down and burn the apple tree.
When the cut is rotting, it makes sense to save the tree (grow further) only if the wood is wet, but hard enough.
Video
This video will tell you about the putty of the wounds of fruit trees.
findings
- Tree pruning should be done annually old trunk and branches, dry wood. To speed up the healing process of sections, special putties are used.
- Sections heal most quickly in young twigs - large wounds of perennials are difficult to heal.
- To protect the apple orchard from hares, the trunks are wrapped with agrofibre or fenced with fine mesh nets.
Also read what to do if the bark of an apple tree is gnawed by mice in.
When it comes optimal time for planting trees, shrubs, vines, grasses, it is worth remembering the most common mistakes when planting plants in order to avoid them.
Mistake 1. Non-compliance optimal timing landing. Depending on the region and planting material landing is carried out at the following times:
- in southern regions - plants with an open root system are planted in autumn and winter: from the end of November to the end of February, with a closed root system (in containers) - throughout the year (in summer with shading);
- in northern regions - spring planting is preferable before the start of the growing season, it is better to plant plants with a closed root system.
- for shrub seedlings - 70 x 70 cm,
- for plants with a lump - more than the size of a lump by at least 30 cm,
- for a hedge, a trench is being prepared instead of holes.
Mistake 3. Ignoring the consequences of construction. In areas under construction, large quantity construction debris, it is necessary to dig holes with a size of at least 150x100 cm with a complete replacement of the soil. To fill the pit, humus-soddy land is prepared at the rate of 20-25 kg of rotted manure per pit or running meter ditches.
Error 4. Mixing soil layers. When preparing planting pits, one of the most common mistakes is the mixing of the upper fertile layer with the lower - infertile. Only suitable for backfilling roots fertile soil. Planting pits are filled with humus or compost (10-20 kg for trees, 6-8 kg for shrubs) mixed with soil. In the first year of planting, it is not recommended to use mineral fertilizers.
Mistake 5. Making fresh manure. Some novice gardeners add fresh manure to the planting holes, which can burn the roots and the whole plant. When planting, only rotted manure is used; apply slightly decomposed manure into landing pit also undesirable, since there is a high probability of a decrease in plant survival.
Mistake 6. Do not drain. On heavy, clayey, too wet soils, they forget to make mandatory drainage from broken brick and sand.
Mistake 7. Forgetting to revise the root system. When planting plants with an open root system, they forget to inspect the roots, trim the dried tips and remove damaged roots. Roots must not be allowed to dry out. When planting plants, the roots are straightened, they monitor whether the seedling has deviated to the side, or turned out to be too high or low planted.
Mistake 8. The position of the root collar is incorrectly determined(the place where the trunk goes to the root). When planting grafted plants, the position of the root neck is not taken into account. As a rule, it should be at ground level. If the plant is obtained from a cutting, the root neck is not expressed, and some deepening (by 3-5 cm) of seedlings is quite acceptable. The exception is clematis, in which the root neck is deepened by at least 5-10 cm (young plants) and 10-12 cm (adults), as well as flower perennials, in which the rhizome grows vertically upwards (astilbe, geyhera, large rhizome geranium) : they can be deepened by a few centimeters. Plants with a basal rosette of leaves are planted so that the center of the rosette is not buried in the ground.
Mistake 9. Forget about pruning plants. Weak and broken shoots are removed before planting. Roses leave 3-4 strong shoots, which are shortened at about a height of 10-15 cm, leaving 2-4 buds on them.
Mistake 10. They heard about the "miraculous" clay mash, which increases the survival rate of plants during planting, but they are too lazy to do it. To prepare a clay mash, a small amount of clay is added to 10 liters of water (so that after dipping in a mash, thin layer clay), 1 tablet of heteroauxin or a bag of root (you can use any other root formation stimulator, according to the instructions) and 1 kg of rotted manure. Add components in the order listed. The roots treated with the talker must be dried in the open air for 30 minutes, and then the plant should be planted in prepared moistened pits.
Mistake 11. Forget about watering before planting. It is important to water the dressed planting hole before planting.
Error 12. When planting plants with a closed root system, the root ball is not preserved; this often happens if the plant has not been watered before it is released from the container.
Mistake 13. Forget about supports and a garter. Seedlings planted on the windward side must necessarily be tied to support stakes, which are installed in the pits before or during planting; immediately establish a support for vines.
Mistake 14. Do not follow the recommendations for watering plants after planting and mulching. The soil around the planted plants must be well compacted, watered and mulched with sawdust, crushed bark or peat to reduce moisture evaporation and curb the development of weeds.
Mistake 15. Forget about shelter. In the year of planting, young plants are forgotten to cover with spruce branches to protect them from frost and frost (this is especially true for coniferous, evergreen rhododendrons).