Lesson on technology on the topic "technologies of housekeeping". An important issue is the preparation of walls for painting

Lesson topic: Repair of previously painted surfaces for painting is not water compositions

The purpose of the lesson: instill in students theoretical knowledge for the repair of previously painted surfaces.

Lesson objectives:

educational – to form students' practical skills in performing painting repair work.

nurturing - educate independence, responsibility, collectivism.

Educational - develop logical thinking, creativity, the ability to analyze, compare, generalize, draw conclusions, think critically

Lesson type: practical lesson

Lesson equipment:

Posters, brushes, rollers,solution soda ash, dye

Methods used in the lesson: story, conversation, demonstration, practical lesson.

Lesson plan

I. Organizing time– 3-5 min.

II. Updating knowledge - 15-20 min.

III. Presentation of new material - 35 min.

IV. Practical work– 60 min.

V. Summing up the lesson, grading - 20 min.

During the classes

I . Organizing time:

a) greeting;

b) checking the composition of the group (class);

c) checking the readiness of students;

II . Knowledge update. Conversation on questions

1. What are the requirements for surfaces to be painted?

2. How to prepare the surface for repair for water-based painting?

3. What defects can occur when painting the surface with water-based compounds?

4. What are the rules for caring for brushes?

5. Safety precautions when working with paints?

III . Presentation of new material.

When preparing plastered surfaces previously painted with oil compositions, if the paint does not have significant damage, the paint film holds well and the strength of the base does not inspire concern, they are limited to washing the surfaces with a 2–5% solution of soda ash to wash off deposits of various fumes and soot, which weaken the adhesion of the new paint layer to the base. If the old oil paint is not strong enough, covered with wrinkles and cracks, it is removed - scraped off, burned out or treated with chemicals.

Burning out old oil paint blowtorch: under the action of a flame directed at the painted surface, the old paint layer swells. After that, the paint is immediately scraped off with a spatula, since the cooled paint is more difficult to scrape off. This method is applied when large volumes work and, as a rule, when cleaning plastered or stone surfaces and not wooden ones.

Chemical substances for removing old paint used for large volumes of repair work, regardless of the type of surface.

Old paint is removed with caustic alkalis that destroy the film. The most affordable in conditions construction works is a pasta prepared from 5 kg. sifted chalk and 5 kg. lime paste, diluted to the density of ordinary putty with a 20% solution of caustic soda. The paste is applied to the surface to be cleaned with a wooden spatula in a layer 1.5 - 2 mm thick. Depending on the hardness of the paint film, it is left on the surface for 0.5 - 1.5 hours. Caustic soda, saponifying the paint, softens it so much that it can be easily removed with a steel spatula. After removing the paint layer, the surface is washed with water, then with a 2% solution acetic acid to neutralize alkali residues, then rinse again with water and wipe with a rag. The paste removed from the surface can be used repeatedly, so it is not thrown away, but stored tightly. closed banks. The surface after removing the old paint is treated as new.

The preparation of previously painted wooden surfaces is carried out in the same way as the preparation of previously painted plastered surfaces. When cleaning wooden surfaces, do not use the method of burning paint.

Beautiful, clean coloring depends on the ability to work different tool: brushes, rollers, trimming, etc. In order for the color to be uniform, it is recommended to stir it every time the brush is lowered into the paint, preventing the formation of sediment.

Excess paint is slightly squeezed out on the edge of the dishes, preventing it from dripping onto the floor. When painting, it is recommended to hold the brush perpendicular to the surface or at a slight angle, while making uniform strokes and covering the surface with long wide stripes - strokes of paint that shade well so that there are no rough stripes left.

The cleanliness of the painted surface largely depends on the pressure on the brush and the thickness of the applied paint layer. If the brush is pressed lightly, then the paint falls in the form of narrow stripes, often in a thick, rough layer. However, gaps remain. From strong pressure on the brush, paint flows off it, forming streaks, but at the same time, a thinner, easily shaded layer of paint remains under the brush. It is advisable to do so. Putting a brush to the surface, at first they press it slightly, but as the paint is used up, the pressure is gradually increased, shading it well. You can make a roller out of a rag or foam rubber and fix it on the handle 30-50 mm below the brush to prevent paint from dripping on it.

The painted surface must be perfectly smooth. The direction of the paint strokes plays an important role in this: they should be crossed at right angles.

wall painting First, the paint is applied horizontally, that is, along the length of the wall, on some part of it (the grip), and then the fresh paint is shaded along the height of the wall. In this case, horizontal strokes overlap with vertical ones, and possibly left gaps are painted over. If you have to paint the walls three times, then with the first and third colors the strokes are applied vertically, with the second - horizontally.

Ceiling painting In this case, the fall of light from the windows is taken into account: finishing touches should be directed away from the window, i.e. in the direction of the light rays.

If the coloring is performed twice, then the first strokes are applied perpendicular to the light rays, and the second ones are parallel. When the composition is applied across the light beams, shadows in the form of threads are formed on the strokes, revealing uneven coloring.

If light enters the room from windows not from one side, but from two or three, then the finishing touches are directed along the length of the ceiling.

Application features oil formulations Oil paint is shaded when painting at a time as follows: along plastered walls - vertically, along wooden surfaces - along the fibers of the tree, along the floors - towards the window, along the roof - along the slope, i.e. from the ridge to the gutters. When painting twice: on the walls the first layer is shaded horizontally, the second - vertically, on wood the first layer is across the fibers, on the floors - from the window, and the second layer is the same as when painting at a time. Sometimes they are painted in two or three times if the surfaces are rough and they want to be made smoother by applying a thick layer of paint.

Painting walls with a fly brush: a, b - applying horizontal and vertical strokes to the wall.Hand brush work - usually flywheels and other large brushes are used for painting large surfaces. The procedure for working with such brushes is as follows. Wet the brush in the paint, wring out the excess on the edges of the dishes and begin to run the brush along the walls from top to bottom and bottom to top or first horizontally and then vertically, applying strokes of paint without gaps, carefully shading them to leave a thin layer of paint. During operation, the brush pin is held with both hands and the brush is moved in full swing, making the strokes as long as possible. You can also work like this: hold the pin firmly with your left hand, and drive it with your right hand. In this case, the hand slides along the pin, then approaching the left hand, then moving away from it.

Painting the top of the wall under the eaves with a handbrake, the fly brush is systematically rotated in the hands so that it works from all sides, acquiring the shape of a torch. If this is not done, then her hair is demolished in such a way that it takes the form of a shoulder blade, and it is less convenient to work with such a brush. In order not to stain the cornices, a strip 25-40 cm wide is painted under them, a handbrake brush is used.

Handbrake work - handbrakes are small brushes, and they are mainly used for painting window frames, doors, trim, skirting boards, etc.

Paints are picked up on them, the excess is squeezed out a little on the stirrer or the edge of the dishes and shaded over the surface thin layer. Shading the paint with handbrakes is carried out in two directions, moreover, the accepted procedure for shading should be observed until the entire surface is painted. The handbrake is held so that the hair of the brush does not work with the end, but with the side. The pressure should be so strong that the hair slightly arches.

Work with flutes and crosscuts. The purpose of these operations is to level the freshly applied paint and remove rough streaks. From flatting, the surface becomes smooth and even, and from trimming it takes on the appearance of shagreen (a rough surface consisting of tiny tubercles).

Coloring with different brushes:

A) - handbrake, b) - flute, c) - trimming. For this type of work, the paint composition is prepared thicker than when painting without flattening and trimming. This work is best done together: one paints, and the other, following him, flutes or trims with fresh paint.

Flaming - they take a flute with their right hand, a dry, clean rag with their left. With light pressure, a flute is carried over the surface, comparing the stripes of the applied paint. Work should be without passes. From work, the flute is impregnated with paint, so it must be wringed out regularly, wiped with a dry cloth, and only then proceed to work. You can wash the flutes and then dry them: wet flutes are unsuitable for work.Facing - take a trimming brush in right hand and perform with it facing blows on the applied paint. Moreover, trimming should only lightly touch the paint with hair. It is not recommended to strike the same place with crosscutting more than once: after the paint dries, such places will be stained. In the process of work, the trimming is periodically wiped with a dry cloth, and if necessary, washed and dried.

Pulling out the panels: a) - along the ruler, b) - along the stencil.

Panel pulling - junction of two colors different color is not always equal. To give the walls a beautiful and finished look, the junction is often covered with a strip of paint of a different color - a panel.

Adhesive paint panels are made according to adhesive and mixed paints(the panel is oil, and the top is glued). When oil painting, the panels are pulled out with oil paints.

To draw out the panels, ordinary glue paint is used, but of a more liquid consistency, it is recommended to dilute oil paint with turpentine.

To work, you need a panel brush and an evenly planed ruler or stencil. The ruler is firmly pressed against the line beaten off with a chalked cord. Wet the brush in the paint, wring it out slightly and, putting it to the ruler, with the same pressure, draw a straight line of the same width - a panel. To prevent the paint from pouring under the ruler, chamfer (bevel) from one of its edges. The ruler is applied with a chamfer to the wall and a brush moves along it. A small amount of paint for drawing out the panels is poured into a jar, which is attached to a cord at chest level.

Staining with rollers: a) - picking up paint, b) - coloring.

Roller work - excess paint forms streaks, so the rollers are pressed against a mesh stretched over a frame 200x300 mm in size. Instead of a grid, you can take the same piece roofing steel or tin and punch frequent holes in it. The sheet is placed in the container with the roughness down. You can also use a piece of plywood or a thin board by drilling holes in them with a diameter of 12-15 mm, staggered 2-5 mm apart.

The design of the rollers does not make it possible to paint the surfaces of walls with them in the corners, at the platbands, skirting boards, etc. Therefore, such places should be pre-painted with a brush and shaded well.

Paint with a roller like this. They dip it in paint, wring out its excess, passing it along the grid, bring it to the surface and with pressure lead it in the right direction.

The paint must be carefully shaded, for which the roller is rolled several times in the same place: on the walls, usually first from top to bottom, then from bottom to top, etc., applying stripes of paint one on top of the other so that they overlap by 4-5 mm . As the paint is used up, the pressure on the roller increases.

The primer is recommended to use the same color as the color scheme. Painting can be done in one or two passes. For example, first staining is carried out in a horizontal direction, and then in a vertical direction. Care must be taken to ensure that there are no leaks.

Roller painted surfaces have the appearance of a coarse pebbled finish.

Before painting, it is necessary to make a test painting of any surface: a wall, a sheet of plywood or cardboard in order to acquire some skill. Up to 300 m2 of surface can be painted in one day with good quality work. Moreover, one roller can paint more than 3 thousand m2 of surface.

IV . Practical work.

1. Organization of the workplace.

2. Proper performance of work, compliance with safety regulations.

3. Comprehensive control.

4. Help students in their work.

5. Summing up the lesson, grading.

1. Inspection of the completed task and its evaluation.

2. Summing up the working day.

3. Reporting the results of the lesson.

4. Message of the next topic of the lesson.

5. Homework.

6. Cleaning the workplace.

Surfaces to be painted with non-aqueous compounds must be dry, dust-free after sanding and primed.

small flat areas walls are painted with a handbrake brush, fur rollers, and large surfaces - with paint sprayers.

Window frames, metal lattice structures are painted with handbrake brushes, flute brushes.

The painting of the walls begins with beating the top of the painting with a cord dyed with dry pigment. The resulting line is taken away with a handbrake brush.

To paint the wall, the brush is first dipped into the paint for half the length of the pile and the excess is squeezed out on the edge of the container. Coloring begins with vertical sections (Fig. 1), then the paint is distributed in zigzag movements and shaded with vertical movements.

Oil paints are applied in two layers, keeping the first layer for 1-2 days.

Figure 1. Sequence of application of non-aqueous formulations by brush

When painting on the surface, bumps and brush marks often remain.

To obtain a smooth and glossy surface, the freshly painted areas are flattened. And to get rough, matte texture- facing.

Flattening (Fig. 2) is performed with a dry flattened brush without pressure, only with the very tip of the pile, with vertical movements.

Figure 2. Flattening with a dry brush

To trim the surface (Fig. 3), they take a dry trimming brush and strike the paint layer (once). Facing allows you to create a smooth, evenly diffusing light, rough surface.

Figure 3. Surface trimming

The walls are painted with a roller vertical stripes. To do this, first it is lowered into a bath of paint and the excess is squeezed out, rolling it over the grid.

The roller is applied to the wall and moves it up and down along the surface.

Each subsequent painting strip should overlap the previous one by 2 ... 3 cm. Paint the surface with a roller until it gives up all the paint, shade it with a dry roller in reverse motion.

When painting doors, brushes and rollers are used. The smooth surface of the door begins to be painted from the upper left corner, then the adjacent areas are covered. Further, going down, paint the entire door. If the door is with contour trim, then it is more expedient to paint it first, and then the door leaf or panels.

The painting of windows begins with the movable sash, then the gratings of the fixed sash are painted, and finally the frame and window sill.

To prevent traces of paint from remaining on the glass, shields made of tin, cardboard, plywood are used. The edge of the shield is cut into a chamfer so that there are no non-paints left. You can also apply paint adhesive tape, gluing it to the glass along the perimeter of the surface to be painted.

After work, it can be easily removed from the glass, leaving no traces of paint.

When painting wood door panels and window casings, the final shading is performed along the fibers of the wood.

Painting of pipes, radiators and other gratings metal structures produced with shaped brushes, handbrake brushes, a double roller, zigeyka mittens, a spray gun.

Often, when using adhesive compositions, damp spots or separate places with a “frozen” color appear on the painted surface, the color of which is much darker. This happens when not quite dry plaster is painted. Such defects are eliminated by washing the entire surface. warm water, drying damp places, and then priming and painting again.

When using colors with an insufficient amount of glue, the paint layer is sanded, which is removed by also washing the surface, then priming and painting with a color with a normal content of glue.

When using colors with excess glue, as well as when painting surfaces puttied or primed with compositions containing an excess amount of glue, the color fades: marble-like spots and stripes appear. To eliminate them, the paint is washed off hot water, the surface is washed several times with warm water and, when it dries, covered with a very weak primer (with a small amount of glue) - the putty glue should fix the weak primer. The primer for these purposes is prepared according to the following recipe:

Primer on re-glued putty (for 10 liters of composition)

• Copper vitriol .............................................................. ...........0.05 kg
• Laundry soap ................................................................ ....0.05 kg
• Animal glue (10%) .............................................. .0.55 l

In addition to the previously listed defects resulting from painting with aqueous compositions, including adhesives, there may be other defects. The reasons for their appearance and ways to eliminate them are indicated in Table. fifteen.

The quality of water colors is determined mainly by appearance completed work.

Table 15
Defects in water-based paints

test questions

1. List the technological operations in preparation for painting:
   • 1.1. improved adhesive;
   • 1.2. lime plaster and concrete;
   • 1.3. improved casein;
   • 1.4. emulsion.
2. What are the requirements of SNiP for the quality of painting with aqueous compositions?

Water paint walls

Aqueous compositions, like lime, are prepared on cement, lime, emulsions such as MB, animal, casein or silicate glue. They paint plastered, concrete, brick or wooden surfaces. By quality, water colorings can be divided into simple, improved and high quality.

Preparing a new plastered wall for painting

Work begins with cleaning the walls from dust, dirt, splashes and streaks of mortar, removing various stains. Then the surface is smoothed over the entire area of ​​the wall, removing traces of grout, individual irregularities and protruding grains of sand. The surface of the wall is smoothed with circular movements. Large splashes of the solution are removed with a metal spatula. Small cracks are eliminated by wet grinding of surfaces with a wooden grater. To do this, simultaneously with grinding, the surface is moistened with water.

Large cracks, mechanical damage to the plaster (potholes) are greased. For better filling of cracks with a lubricant composition, they are cut (embroidered) with a metal spatula or a plaster knife to a depth of 2-3 mm at an angle of 40-45 °.
In order for the lubricant composition to better hold in the crack, it must be moistened with water, and with an improved adhesive color, the entire surface should be primed with a specially prepared primer composition.

Then the grease is applied with a metal spatula, moving it first at an acute angle to the direction of the cracks.
The final leveling of the layer and the removal of excess lubrication mass must be carried out by moving along the crack. After drying, the smeared places are ground with a pumice stone or fine-grained sandpaper, and then the entire surface is primed. The primer composition is used depending on the type of surface and the accepted color.

If you paint the surface of the wall without a preliminary primer, then in those places where it is more porous (in places of lubrication), the paint is absorbed more and matte spots form on the surface, which will stand out sharply against the general color background of the wall.

Lime primers applied to well-moistened surfaces using manual or electric spray guns. Do not wet the wet surface.

silicate primers applied to durable, well-prepared wall surfaces with foam rollers or paint sprayers.

Primer for adhesive paints cooked on blue vitriol, alum or alumina. For applying primers (except vitriol) to the surface of the wall, paint sprayers are used.
When secondary priming under improved adhesive coloring 6-7 kg of chalk is introduced into the composition of vitriol or alum soil for every 10 liters of it. The second primer is applied in the same way as the first.
High-quality colorings are carried out only with glue and casein formulations.

Casein primer before use, it is necessary to filter and apply to the surface using a paint sprayer.

Cement compositions used for painting surfaces with high porosity.

Before applying the primer (first coloring), first prepare in the usual way surface and abundantly moisten it with water to a moisture content of 37-40%. The primer is applied immediately after the droplet liquid water disappears from the surface. To apply the cement primer, spray guns or spray guns with a nozzle diameter of at least 2.5 mm can be used. However, it is better to use a stiff brush when applying the primer.

When painting internal surfaces waterborne emulsion paints the surface is prepared in the same way as for ordinary water-based paints.

When preparing the surface of the walls for painting modern paints chalk must be thoroughly washed off. Before whitewashing with chalk or lime, vitriol is used.
When painting over oil primer, the surface must be puttied with a putty corresponding to the type of paint.
Emulsion primers usually applied with a roller or spray gun.

For small volumes of work, primers can be applied manually with matting or fly brushes. In this case, a layer of primer is applied to the walls with vertical movements of the brush, followed by shading it in the horizontal direction, with a final shading in the transverse direction.
For high-quality painting, it is recommended to make two continuous fillers with grinding and dust removal after applying each layer of putty. The total thickness of the putty layer should not exceed 1.5 mm.

The first layer of putty is applied manually over the dried surface with a spatula, holding it at an angle of 10-15° to the surface. The putty strip applied in one movement is smoothed out by repeated movement of the spatula, perpendicular to the first.
Best for applying putty steel spatula . At the same time, a putty strip 40-50 cm wide and 1.5-2 m long is applied in one movement of the spatula. To apply liquid putty, you can use a fly brush, followed by leveling the composition rubber spatula. When leveling, the spatula is moved in a direction perpendicular to the brush strokes.

Putties applied mechanized way immediately level with a rubber trowel or a spatula with a rubber blade - in two mutually perpendicular directions.
After complete drying, the putty layer must be sanded with pumice stone or sandpaper to obtain smooth surface. Then the surface is wiped from dust with a rag or a dry flat brush, after which it is primed a second time. After drying, the surface is ground and primed for the third time with a composition that includes chalk and those pigments whose color will prevail in the color of the wall surface.

Preparing old wall surfaces

If the painting was done many times, then a thick paint layer is formed on the surface - nabel to be removed. A small weak nabel is simply washed off with water using a bast brush or fly brush. For 1-2 hours before the start of work, strong adhesive deposits are moistened with hot water, and then removed using metal spatulas or scrapers. Durable casein, silicate, and also adhesive nabes are moistened with a 2-3% hydrochloric acid solution and cleaned off after softening. After removing the whitewash, the entire surface is thoroughly washed with water and rubbed with a wooden grater.

Preparation of wood and stone walls

Before lime painting, the wooden surfaces of the walls are cleaned, moistened with water and primed. When painting brick and concrete surfaces lime and silicate compounds the walls are pre-cleaned and primed with the appropriate composition: for lime painting - with lime soil, for silicate - with silicate.

Elimination of defects in the preparation of walls

The surface to be painted may be heavily soiled, with greasy or rusty spots, soot stains, etc. If the stains are not removed from the surface before painting, they will show through the layer of paint film.
Grease spots non-drying mineral oils and soot stains are washed with a 5% solution of soda ash. To prepare such a solution, 400-500 g of soda is dissolved in a bucket of water. Soot stains can also be removed with a 2-3% hydrochloric acid solution.

Rusty water stains are washed with a 2-3% hydrochloric acid solution. After drying, the surface is primed with grass - 10-15% solution blue vitriol. If the spots are large and appear on the surface, they can be covered with rosin varnish or quick-drying white enamel paint.

Walls to be painted with non-aqueous compounds

Non-aqueous formulations include oil, varnish and enamel formulations.
Oil and enamel compounds cover plastered, wooden and metal surfaces, and varnishes only wood and metal. In terms of quality, non-aqueous paints, with the exception of paints for metal, are divided into simple, improved and high-quality ones.

Preparation of plastered walls

Smoothing the surface of the plaster and cutting cracks is done in the same way as in preparation for water-based paints. The surface is then oiled.
The pro-oiling of the surface is carried out using paint sprayers, and for small amounts of work - manually with brushes, shading the composition in an even layer so that there are no gaps. After the surface has dried, the damaged areas are smeared with paste for oil painting. Putty the surface with oil, varnish or oil-emulsion putty. Putty compositions are applied using the same methods and tools as for water-based paints.

After grinding and cleaning from dust, the surface is primed. With improved and high quality colorings the primer layer is fluted, i.e., shaded and leveled with dry fluting, and after drying, polished with a fine sandpaper.

Preparation of wooden surfaces

The compositions for painting and the methods of their application remain the same as for the preparation of plastered surfaces for oil painting. In order for the drying oil to soak the wood well during pro-oiling, it is recommended to warm it up a little.
Some defects in the wood must be removed with a chisel, scraper or sanding before the surface is pro-oiled.

Troubleshooting in preparation for non-aqueous stains

Removal of rust, grease and other stains from surfaces is carried out in the same way as with water colors. Wall surfaces previously painted with oil paint, but contaminated during prolonged use, are washed with hot water and soap or soda.
Three methods are used to remove the old oil film: mechanical, thermal and chemical.
mechanically the film is removed with metal spatulas, scrapers or chisels. However, this can damage the outer covering layer of the plaster. This method is used for all surfaces except wood.

thermal method It consists in the fact that the paint is heated with hot air to such a temperature that it begins to swell and peel off. For this purpose, building hair dryers are used. Cooling quickly, the paint becomes hard again, so it must be cleaned off directly in a stream of hot air, using a metal scraper with a wooden handle.
Working with building hair dryer requires caution. First of all, its nozzle, which is very hot, can be seriously burned. Work should be in glasses, protecting all parts of the body. Need to follow the rules fire safety. Heated - the paint emits toxic gases, so it is impossible to work with a hair dryer indoors.

chemical method It consists in the fact that a chemically aggressive mixture is applied to the paint, which is absorbed into it and destroys it. As a rule, the paint also swells and softens. Removing it does not require much physical effort. In this case, liquid mixtures sold under the name "old paint remover" are used.
Flaw chemical method- the surface is impregnated with alkali, so it has to be washed with a 1% solution of hydrochloric or acetic acid. This method is applicable only for plastered and wooden surfaces.

Compositions for removing old paints and varnishes

"Unikrongel" - wash to remove coatings. Provides excellent flushing action - no more than 20 minutes for one layer of paintwork.
Used to remove old paintwork from metal, wood, concrete and plastered surfaces.
To remove the old paintwork, a carefully mixed wash is applied in an even layer on the surface to be cleaned with an area of ​​​​not more than 0.5 m2 and left in this form for 10-20 minutes. After complete softening and peeling of the old coating, it is removed from the surface with a spatula and the cleaned surface is thoroughly wiped.
Work is carried out at a temperature environment 10-30°C.

Composition of AFT-1 used to remove old oily nitrocellulose paints. After loosening or swelling of the old paintwork, it is removed with a brush or spatula, then the surface is wiped with a highly volatile solvent.

Alkaline means "Vivaklin" ("Vivackean") used for cleaning interior and exterior surfaces before painting. It can be used to clean previously painted surfaces from dirt, grease, oil, wax. Water is used as a solvent.

"Rapidone" ("Rapidone") - jelly-like water-washable product for removing old paintwork from wood, metal, stone or glass surfaces.
For application use a brush or brush. After peeling, the paint is removed with a metal spatula, then the surface is washed with warm water. The solvent is water.

Composition of SP-7 serves to remove old paint coatings, enamels VL-515, ML-165, AK-194, MS-3 and putty EP-0010, as well as the old complex coating, consisting of an electrophoretic primer VKF-O92, synthetic enamels such as ML-12, ML-197, epoxy primer EP-0228.

The number and sequence of operations for painting with aqueous compositions depend on the type of surface, the paint composition and the requirements for the quality of the painted surface. Technological operations performed during the preparation and painting of indoor surfaces with aqueous compositions are given in the table.

Note. Sign " + » indicate the operations performed, and the sign « - ” indicates that this operation is not in progress.

Coloring with adhesives begin only after the last layer of the primer has dried, no later than 24 hours after its application. In this case, the coloring compositions are applied twice. For manual painting, brushes, fly brushes and rollers with covers made of foam rubber or sponge rubber are used.

To paint the ceiling use formulations with a smaller amount of glue. Ceilings are usually painted in two steps. The first staining is done with brushes, while the movement of the brush should correspond to the direction of the light falling from the window (Fig. 1). When the first layer dries, the surface is covered with a second thin layer of color from the spray gun.

Figure 1. Direction of painting surfaces

When painting the surface with a hand spray gun(Fig. 2) the work is carried out by two painters: one directly paints, and the second injects the coloring composition into the spray gun bottle. The cylinder holds 3 liters of paint composition. Two sleeves are connected to the spray gun cylinder - pressure and suction, as well as a fishing rod with a nozzle. Before starting work, it is necessary to check the tightness of the connections. The suction hose is lowered into a container with a paint composition. The cylinder itself contains a plunger pump and two ball valves. When the pump handle is lifted, a pressure difference is created in the container and the paint container, which allows the suction valve to open. The paint composition through the filter and the suction hose enters the cylinder. When the pump handle is lowered, the suction valve closes and the discharge valve opens. The paint composition under pressure begins to flow into the discharge sleeve, and then into the rod to the nozzle. When you press the rod tap lever, the paint composition flies out of the nozzle with force and is sprayed over the surface in the form of a torch.

Figure 2. Manual spray gun SO-20B: 1 - balloon; 2 - fishing rod; 3 - nozzle; 4 - handle plunger pump; 5 - discharge sleeve; 6 - crane lever; 7 - filter with suction sleeve

When working with a fishing rod, you must observe correct distance between the nozzle and the surface to be painted (Fig. 3). If the nozzle is too far away, the paint will flow over the surface, and if it is too close, it will bounce off the surface, which will lead to an overuse of the paint composition.

Walls they are painted with brushes and rollers in two steps, but first, at the ceiling, the upper border of staining with a color tint is beaten off with a lace.

Figure 3. The position of the nozzle relative to the surface to be painted: a - correct position fishing rods; b - a position that causes paint streaks; c - position causing paint rebound

When working with fly brushes, the surface is painted in two stages: painting - with horizontal movements; shading - vertical movements. Coloring with maklovitsa does not require transverse shading, and the coloring composition is applied with vertical up and down movements. At the same time, high rooms are painted using the “brush to brush” method (Fig. 4), so that the joints of the painted areas do not have time to dry out and are invisible on the surface.

Figure 4. Painting surfaces with a brush-brush using the brush-to-brush method

Coloring with lime compositions it will turn out strong if the lime has time to carbonize, i.e. the calcium oxide hydrate, which is part of the lime paint, will turn into crystalline calcium carbonate. This requires a moist environment. Therefore, it is better to paint with lime compositions wet surfaces, unaffected sun rays and dry wind.

Lime paint is applied with an airbrush or fly brushes. At the same time, the methods of work when painting walls and ceilings are the same as when painting with adhesives.

Painting with silicate compounds produce with a roller or brush 10 ... 12 hours after applying the primer. Paint with a monochromatic coating is applied in one or two layers. The second layer is applied after 10 ... 12 hours. If it is necessary to apply a drawing, then a rubber roller is used. In this case, the paint is applied 1-2 hours after the first staining.

The methods of working with a brush and roller are the same as for painting with adhesives.

Coloring water-based compositions is carried out on clean, dry, well-prepared, primed surfaces.

For applying water-based paints, brushes and rollers are used. Brushes paint on the wall surface with vertical strokes at a distance of 5 ... 7 cm from each other. Shade the paint over the surface with horizontal and vertical movements.

Before painting the entire surface with a roller, paint corners and other hard-to-reach places (near baseboards, at the border of painting) with a handbrake brush. When painting, the roller is moved in vertical movements from top to bottom, overlapping the painting grips by 2...3 cm.

Water-based paints of high viscosity are applied in one layer, and less viscous paints - in two layers. The second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried.