How to remove the sewer from a private house. The device of revision hatches. Where to start construction work

Nowadays it is almost impossible to imagine private house without the sanitary benefits of civilization. bathrooms, showers, Appliances and other equipment, one way or another, must be able to remove sewage outside the home.

Without a quality liquid drainage system, this will be very difficult to do.

Design

The project of the sewer system, all auxiliary and treatment facilities should be done at the design stage of the house. This will make it possible to correctly arrange all communication channels, which, accordingly, will allow the entire system to work effectively in the future.

It is desirable that the entire internal and external highway have as few complex nodal connections and sharp turns as possible. At this stage, you can also calculate the diameter of the pipes and, of course, choose the pipes themselves.

Photo: sewerage project plan

The design of sewer channels is very closely related to the laying of water supply. Often the main water supply pipes are mounted together with the central sewer riser.

This suggests that the entire design procedure should take into account other communications at home, to facilitate the wiring of systems and rational use special channels.

Photo: prepared channels for pipes

The design part of the sewer also includes determining the location for a septic tank, drainage pits and other outdoor communications.

Important! Without taking into account the level of soil freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater, it is impossible to correctly calculate all the volumes of outdoor work.

Best of all, specialists of the appropriate profile will cope with this task, and further excavation and installation work can be done independently.

Determining the angle of inclination

Since most systems are gravity flow, the angle of inclination of the pipes during installation plays a very big role. If the slopes are not observed, blockages and sewage failure are inevitable. But if you follow certain rules, then this can be avoided.

Photo: compliance with the angle of inclination

Firstly, different diameters, not the same. The greater the internal patency of the channel, the smaller the angle of inclination is made.

It is also worth considering internal coating pipes - with a rough structure of the material, the angle, although not significantly, should be increased.

There are regulatory documents that define the correct slopes for sewer pipes of various diameters. For example, for the most popular modern sewerage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, the slope must be at least 0.02 (2 cm per 1 m / p).

Photo: dimensions of the angle of inclination

Installing a pipe with such a slope will allow sewage to move with normal speed and will not allow suspended particles to precipitate.

Below is a table with slopes for the most common pipe diameters in relation to plumbing equipment:

plumbing fixture	Pipe diameter, mm	Tilt angle
Toilet bowl	100	1:20
bath, shower	40-50	1:48
Sink, sink	40-50	1:12-1:36
Bidet	40-50	1:20

When laying highways, the angles of inclination described below should be observed:

for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm - 3 cm per m / n;
for pipes with a diameter of 160 mm - 0.008 cm per m / n;
for pipes with a diameter of 200 mm - 0.007 cm per m / p.

To make it clearer, let's look at one example. Assume that the length of the pipeline is 10 meters. Pipe diameter 50 mm. This means that the difference between the lower and upper edges of the pipe should be 30 cm (0.03 x 10).

How to rotate sewer pipes

When installing an internal sewerage system in a private house, it becomes necessary to change the direction of the pipe.

For this procedure, all kinds of fittings are used, which can differ not only in angular characteristics, but also in structural data.

Important! It is also worth remembering that any connection is a guaranteed leak point if the parts are not mated correctly. Swivel fittings are also a place for sediment accumulation and blockages. Therefore, it is necessary to install revisions in particularly difficult areas.

Photo: sewerage fitting

Based on this, it is worth taking a very responsible attitude to the rotary nodes of the pipeline. To begin with, you should refuse to turn the pipes by 90 degrees in the horizontal plane.

It is better to replace this assembly with a 45 degree fitting. If this is not possible, then it is advisable to install an inspection well at the place of the turn.

Photo: revision well

With internal wiring of the sewer, it is worth avoiding the docking of the outlets with the central riser at a right angle. To a greater extent, this applies to kitchen outlets.

First of all, it will make it impossible correct installation tilt angle.

Secondly, the specificity of kitchen drains is such that grease and food particles cannot be removed properly.

Important! Particular attention should be paid to connecting the toilet. There should be the least number of turning points at this point, therefore, the installation of this plumbing is carried out, if possible, as close as possible to the outlet channel.

Regardless of the number of sewer risers in the house, all are combined into one sewer branch, which diverts effluents further to treatment or storage facilities. In most cases, this place is the basement.

Photo: sewer interchange

Pipe turns in this sewer "interchange" should be done with fittings with an angle of rotation of 45 and 90 degrees.

At the same time, it is necessary to strengthen the entire structure with retaining hangers and install revision nodes.

Odor prevention

Unpleasant odors in the house can appear for several reasons. The most common of these are poor ventilation of the room, in particular the bathroom, and problems with water seals.

If ventilation can be dealt with without any problems by installing an exhaust fan, then with siphons it is not so simple.

The problem may be a mistake made during the installation of the pipeline. The absence or incorrect (negative) slope can cause clogging and, as a result, the passage channel narrows.

Photo: narrowing of the passage channel of the sewer pipe

This can cause a complete blockage of the outlet, then due to overflow of the pipe, water can be sucked out of the siphon, opening the way for sewer gases.

Also, the reason may be the installation of pipes of a smaller diameter, not provided for this type of plumbing. You can eliminate it either by cleaning, or, most difficultly, by altering part of the pipeline.

Photo: blockage removal

In the case when unpleasant "aromas" have not yet filled the room, it is worth taking a number of preventive actions.

They include:

washing kitchen channels from the accumulation of fatty deposits with boiling water and detergent;
timely cleaning of siphons from debris accumulated in the sump;
dishes should be washed after cleaning them from food debris;
do not throw various garbage into the toilet, in the form of newspapers, papers, etc.

Another point that occupies a special place in the installation of sewage is ventilation pipes in septic tanks and cesspools.

In their absence, sewer gas will certainly find a way out, and it will most likely be in a restroom or shower room.

The device of inspection hatches

For full maintenance and cleaning of the sewer network, as well as for free access to the pipeline, inspection hatches are used.

Depending on the installation location, they can be ceiling, wall and floor type. With regard to sewer systems, consider the last two types.

Wall hatches are often disguised as tiles, thereby visually without violating the integrity of the coating. The design itself is made in such a way that when the hatch is closed, the possibility of damaging the glued tiles is completely excluded.

Photo: built-in inspection hatch

Wall-mounted inspection hatches are of two types and differ in mechanism. The first type is push, the name of which in itself speaks of the principle of operation. The hatch is made up of metal frame with hinged door.

Also, the mechanism of the inspection hatch has magnets to fix the hatch in the closed state.

Photo: inspection hatch

The second type is front-swing. It has a similar design with a pressure hatch, but differs in the design of the hinges and fixing latches.

door with rotary mechanism can not only open, but also move to the side, which allows you to access the revision in in full. The hatch is opened with a suction cup.

Compound

A correct and consistent sewer installation procedure is only half of what is required for the normal functioning of the entire network. A significant role in the assembly process is the connection of pipes.

After the places of taps and revisions are determined, the assembly of the sewer riser begins. It is quite problematic to perform this procedure for one person, so at least two should take part in the process.

Pipes are interconnected by means of a socket of one pipe and a smooth end of the other. Previously, rubber is inserted into the groove of the bell sealing ring.

To facilitate the connection, the ring is lubricated with any lubricant that does not contain chemically active compounds that corrode rubber.

Photo: socket connection method

The installation of the connected parts of the pipeline should be done with the socket down, in the direction of the future drain. In places where plumbing is connected, couplings with taps are used.

Fitting the pipe to size is done by cutting with a hacksaw. The sharp edges of the pipe are processed with a file so that the sealing ring is not damaged during docking.

Photo: shortening the pipe

For a quality connection and to prevent leaks, the o-ring in the socket must fit snugly and not be skewed.

Photo: O-ring connection

Important! To compensate for the thermal expansion of pipes during operation, during the connection of the socket-pipe assembly, a gap is left, but not more than 10 mm.

This is especially true when installing external sewerage in a private house, because. this branch of the sewer is most exposed to thermal loads and soil pressure.
As can be seen from the article, it is not so difficult to assemble a sewer system in a private house.

The main thing is to choose the right pipe material and make all the calculations. Particular attention should be paid to setting the angles of inclination of the line and connecting pipes. And it is worth remembering that a properly assembled system will last a long time, without requiring frequent intervention in its work.

Video: installation in a private house

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When arranging country house many communications are often installed by hand. There is nothing surprising in this: the process itself is quite simple, and the execution of work does not require special skills. Of course, there are certain rules that must be observed: for example, it is worth carefully designing the structure and making sure that one communication line does not interfere with another. About how to install a sewer in a private house, and will be discussed in this article.

If we talk about sewerage, then the first thing you need to know is - this system consists of internal and external parts, and the arrangement of each of them is carried out in its own way. External sewerage is installed somewhat easier, since the work is carried out in open space. From the inside, everything is a little more complicated, so installing a sewer in a private house with your own hands begins with it.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

The first step in building a structure is planning. You need to know exactly how much plumbing will be installed, and where it will be installed. When performing work, be sure to have a pre-drawn project at hand. One rule can be immediately deduced: when installing a riser, it must be placed as close as possible to the wall under which the sewer outlet is equipped. Naturally, this wall should be located on the side where the sewer well is located, which, in turn, is arranged as low as possible so that it is easier for drains to move there on their own (read also: "").

The riser is usually made of 110 mm plastic pipe. All outlet pipes are connected to the riser, through which drains are collected from plumbing devices. To connect the toilet to the system, straight sections made of 100 mm pipes are used, and other appliances can be connected through various fittings using pipes with a diameter of 32 to 80 mm.

Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in a private house is usually performed parallel to the water line. Such installation is especially convenient when communications will be installed in the walls. To do this, it is necessary to prepare the strobes intended for laying pipes. There is one caveat here: plumbing system works under some pressure, so the slope of the pipes is not a necessary condition.

The sewer system requires a slope, otherwise it simply will not work: the structure operates on a gravity basis, so the slope must be observed in all its sections, regardless of the length of the pipelines or the location of the devices. According to regulatory documents, the average slope should be within 2-3 cm per 1 meter of the pipeline. When creating a slope, you need to carefully monitor compliance with this value, otherwise the system will begin to create problems very soon.

To connect plastic pipes, it is necessary to use fittings from the same material: such a connection will provide the structure with sufficient strength and tightness. With hidden sewerage, it is necessary not only to lay pipes in prepared strobes, but also to fix them with clamps for reliability. The strobes themselves are subsequently masked special solution.

Do-it-yourself outdoor sewer installation

The elements of the external sewer system include all parts that are equipped outside the building.

Installing sewerage in a private house requires attention, especially in such moments:

The design should have a minimum of bends and turns, so the entire line should be made as straight as possible.
If plastic pipes were used in the house, then outdoor sewerage must also be made of this material.

Mounting external sewerage It also has some features that you will have to face:

Large volume of earthworks. It is necessary to lay the external sewage system, taking into account the level of freezing of the soil: the pipes must be below this level in order to negative temperatures did not provoke stagnation or rupture of the system.
Creation of a sewer well. Before you create a sewer in a private house, you will need to accurately calculate the amount of drains, which is primarily affected by the number of residents. The large estimated volume of waste indicates the need to create a large reservoir, so the depth of its arrangement should be large enough.
System type selection. The quality of the collection and disposal of wastewater, as well as the convenience of operating the sewer system, will be directly affected by its type. Each design has its own nuances: for example, the usual cesspool has extremely low efficiency, but is very cheap, but a powerful station biological treatment will be expensive, but its performance will be at highest level. See also: "".

In any case, external sewerage imposes special requirements on its arrangement, and they must be taken into account in order for the design to be as efficient as possible.

earthworks

Earthwork is one of the first stages of sewerage construction. You can perform these works both independently and with the involvement of additional forces (teams of workers or special equipment). Naturally, before work, it is necessary to mark the area along which the trench will pass.

In addition, it is important to pay attention to the slope of the bottom of the trench: when using equipment, the required value will not be reached, so you will have to level everything yourself. In any case, after preparing the trench, its bottom must be covered with a small layer of sand.

Arrangement of a sewer well

This design can be made from different materials:

brickwork;
metal tank;
reinforced concrete rings;
plastic septic tank.

Each system has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

It is worth saying a few words about each of them:

Devices made of bricks or blocks are pretty good elements of the sewer system, but their arrangement takes a lot of time. With little experience in construction work, it may take several days to create a brick well.
metal structure compares favorably with brick simplicity installation and lower cost, but the service life of the device in this case will be much less: the metal is easily corroded, and very soon the device will become faulty.
Reinforced concrete wells are quite common designs, since among their advantages one can single out strength, reliability and durability. The disadvantage of a well made of reinforced concrete rings is a difficult installation: finished rings have a considerable weight, so it is almost impossible to install them with your own hands.
Plastic septic tanks can also be classified as reliable and quality designs: they are durable and much lighter than reinforced concrete counterparts, so they can be installed with the efforts of 2-3 people. True, the cost of construction is somewhat higher than the cost of previous devices, but the money spent will pay off in the very near future. In addition, if we take into account the labor costs for arranging, for example, concrete wells, then the price will almost be equal.

How to install sewer pipes

The installation of the pipeline usually starts from the house - it is easier to monitor compliance with the slope of the structure. When laying pipes, they must be connected with couplings. When connecting several drain systems into one, it is necessary to use tees or other appropriate fittings.

The last stage of laying the pipeline is connecting the main to sewer well. For this, couplings are also used that connect all pipes of the external sewage system to each other and to the internal sewage system. When the pipes are mounted and installed in their places, the trench is covered with earth, and the work is completed.

The subtleties of arranging sewerage

There are some nuances that you have to deal with when installing a sewer:

Too deep level of soil freezing. With this phenomenon, the pipes must be laid too deep, and the amount of work will increase very much. You can avoid this phenomenon with the help of thermal insulation.

It can be done in two ways:

with help thermal insulation materials performing well this work;
with the help of electric heating, implemented by a cable stretched along the entire sewer line.

The need to maintain slope. It is imperative to observe the slope, and its value must be within the specified limits. The reason for this sounds like this: too little slope will not allow waste to move through the system, and the system will soon become clogged, and if the slope exceeds the standard, the water will move too quickly and will not be able to wash the pipes from the inside, which also leads to blockages.

Design choice. The selection of a sewer system is an individual question, and there is no universal answer to it. To make the choice of sewerage more understandable, it is worth reading an article about the types of sewer systems.

Conclusion

Installation of sewerage in a private house can be done with your own hands - even inexperienced craftsmen will not have any special problems. And if you stock up on some knowledge and carefully prepare for work, then the design will turn out to be reliable and will be able to function for a very long time and with high quality.

Modern man is spoiled by civilization. Sewerage, which not so long ago seemed to be a component of elite housing, today has become an integral part of almost any apartment. Those who live in multi-storey comfortable houses do not have to think about the design and installation of this system, but the owners of individual buildings have a harder time. Internal sewerage - enough a complex system. The efficiency and reliability of its operation directly depends on the design and installation of the structure. How to avoid errors in the process of arranging the system? Let's figure it out.

Where to start construction work?

Arrangement of internal sewerage involves the installation of risers of fan pipes and the installation of piping in the premises. It is best to take care of the drainage system at the design stage of the building and place all the "wet" rooms at a minimum distance from each other. Ideally, make them adjacent, so you can significantly simplify the arrangement of internal sewage. It is also important to correctly determine the location of the collector pipe, to which all pipelines will converge.

Now you can begin to develop a scheme for future sewage:

Observing the scale, we draw a plan of the building.
We mark on it the location of the risers.
We put on the diagram all the plumbing fixtures that are planned to be installed. We note for ourselves the features of their connection.
We draw pipelines that will connect the risers and plumbing equipment. We mark all the necessary turns, joints, etc. Be sure to indicate the connecting elements that will be required for the installation of tees, bends, etc.
We determine the parameters of the riser and the fan pipe.

In accordance with the scheme, the installation of the system will subsequently be carried out, in addition, it will help determine the amount of materials needed.

Internal sewerage includes risers of fan pipes and piping in all indoor areas private house

Now you need to choose a pipe laying method. There can be two of them: hidden and open. In the second case, the trunk is mounted on a wall or floor. The first is more time-consuming and involves the execution of strobes in structures into which pipes are subsequently laid. When choosing this option, experts advise internal plumbing and sewer pipes lay in one strobe. Plumbing is on top and sewage is on the bottom. This is very convenient as it reduces the time required for installation work, and their volume. In addition, it will take much less material for closing the strobe.

Here is an example of such work:

Important points when designing a system

When designing internal sewerage, the following aspects must be taken into account:

For a gravity system, and internal sewage is such, it must be maintained. For pipes with a diameter of 50 to 80 mm, it is 2 cm per meter; for products with a diameter of 80-100 mm, the slope increases to 3 cm per meter.
Drain pipes dishwasher and kitchen sink must be equipped with grease traps.
The toilet must be connected to the riser only by a pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm.
For a house with several floors, the diameter of the riser should be 100-110 mm. It must be equipped with hatches for cleaning.
It is best if there is only one in the house sewer riser. All branches of the internal sewer system will approach it.
The location of the outlet of the pipeline is determined by the location of the collection well, which must be installed at the lowest point of the site. The outlet is located in the wall closest to the well.

By following these simple rules you will avoid many problems.

Internal sewerage can be laid hidden or open way. The first option involves the implementation of strobes in which pipes are laid, which makes it quite difficult to arrange. The second one is much simpler in execution, but less aesthetically pleasing.

Choosing parts for the pipeline

First of all, we determine the material from which the elements are made.

Option #1 - cast iron pipes

Some time ago, there was simply no alternative to such details. Their advantages include durability, such pipes serve more than half a century, high strength and fire resistance. At the same time, cast iron is not sufficiently resistant to shock point loads from which it should be protected as much as possible. The disadvantages of the material include a very large weight, high cost and difficult installation. In addition, the inner surface of such pipes is rough, which contributes to the deposition of layers, which, after time, can completely block the path of sewage.

Option #2 - polypropylene products

The advantages of such elements are resistance to all types of corrosion and solutions of salts, alkalis and acids, durability, high heat resistance. The latter quality allows the details to easily endure both low and high temperatures which makes it possible to lay them in almost any conditions.

Another advantage is increased fire resistance. Polypropylene is capable of quite long time withstand exposure to fire and do not emit toxic substances. Attractive and affordable price. Some difficulty is the installation of parts, which requires special equipment.

The most popular are plastic pipes for sewerage. They are lightweight, easy to install and smooth. inner surface, which prevents the appearance of build-up on the inner walls of parts

Option #3 - PVC parts

They can be made from non-plasticized or plasticized PVC. The characteristics of products made from these materials are similar. The advantages of PVC pipes include a low coefficient of thermal expansion, which allows products not to increase or sag when heated, as well as resistance to UV radiation. In addition, very a large assortment shaped elements, which makes it possible to assemble a pipeline of any configuration.

The disadvantages of products include fragility when low temperatures, low resistance to fire and the release of toxic substances during combustion, as well as sensitivity to certain chemicals.

General installation rules

Internal sewerage in a private house is equipped with a number of rules:

Riser elements with a 90° turn are assembled from two plastic elbows rotated by 45°. If it is mounted cast iron pipeline, two 135° elbows are used.
In order to be able to eliminate possible blockages in pipeline sections, an oblique plastic or cast-iron tee is installed at 45 ° with a plug and one elbow or a cast-iron branch. Cast-iron fitting differs from plastic in names and gradations. For example, a 45° plastic elbow will fully match a 135° cast iron elbow.
Branch pipelines, which are located in the basements, under the ceiling of the premises, are connected to the risers using crosses or oblique tees.
The height from the lower section of the horizontal socket of the tee or straight cross to the floor should be no more than 20 mm.
The length of the pipeline from the toilet to the riser should not be more than 1 m. For other plumbing fixtures - no more than 3.5 m.
90° crosses or straight tees can be used to make turns on risers or transitions to horizontal runs.
To prevent the appearance of odors from the sewer in the room, an exhaust hood must be equipped. the so-called fan pipe lead through the roof to a height of about 0.7 m. It is unacceptable to connect it to a chimney or ventilation.
If not possible, a special air valve for sewerage.
The diameter of the riser must be equal to the diameter of the exhaust part. With one hood, you can combine two or even more risers on the top floor or in the attic. The horizontal sections of such a pipeline are fixed with hanging brackets or simply wire to the rafters.
On risers that do not have indents in the upper and lower floors, revisions for the sewer are installed. standard height revision arrangement - 1000 mm from the floor level. If the part has to be installed in the corner of the room, it should be turned at an angle of 45 ° relative to the walls.
When installing the internal sewage system, all plastic pipes passing through the floors are installed in special metal sleeves. The height of the element depends on the width of the overlap. The top of the part should protrude 20 mm from the floor level, and the bottom should be flush with the ceiling.
The riser is installed with a sleeve on. So that she does not fall from the pipe, she is tied thin wire for the superior socket of the cross or tee, or bursting with pieces of foam.
If it is assumed that a toilet bowl and other plumbing fixtures will be connected in series on a horizontal section, a sewer adapter must be installed between them. Plastic parts can't turn too high. This threatens with problems with the subsequent connection of equipment, especially with a shower or bath. On average, the turn should be carried out at half the socket of the tee in height with a direction towards the wall.
Clamps are used to secure the sewer. Plastic pipes are fixed in horizontal sections as necessary, so that no fractures occur. On average, one clamp is installed per half meter - a meter of the length of the line.
Cast iron pipes are mounted on steel brackets with a bend at the end, which prevent the pipeline from moving. Fasteners are installed under each pipe near the socket.
The risers are fixed to the side walls with 1-2 clamps per floor. Fasteners are installed under the sockets.

It is important to note that at the end of the installation work, tests for tightness are mandatory.

Plumbing, heating, sewerage, electricity supply - these are the systems without which it is impossible comfortable life in a private house. And if just a couple of decades ago, some networks in dachas were not even talked about, today it is a vital necessity. Let's not dwell on all systems, but consider the one that you can build with your own hands. It will be about how to independently make a sewer in your own suburban area.

But first let's find out...

What is the sewer system?

The sewerage system of a country house is divided into two parts - internal and external.

Internal is a network of pipelines that connect each separate plumbing fixture with a riser leading sewer to the outside. Usually used for this plastic pipe with a diameter of 32-50 millimeters.

An exception to the rule is the diameter of the pipe installed after the toilet. It should be 100-110 millimeters. The riser should be the same size. Most often, a pipe with a diameter of 110 millimeters is used for it.

External sewerage has a more complex structure, and it is laid along the site on which the house stands.

The outer part of the sewer

Since it passes through the area surrounding the house, you have to take into account some of the nuances of its installation:

The location of the collection well or septic tank. Sewerage is gravity, so you need to install a septic tank at the lowest point of the site. In addition, it will have to be cleaned periodically. And if you plan to do this with the help of a sewage truck, then you will have to think about a convenient access road.
The internal riser should be mounted against the wall that is closest to the septic tank.
External sewerage is a straight section connecting the house and the septic tank. Try to hold it without bends and bends. After all, it is in these places that pipe blockages occur. And this additional work service .
If there are other objects on the site from which drains flow (pool, sauna, bath, summer kitchen and so on), then it is necessary to accurately calculate the volume of the septic tank and correctly lay the pipe scheme.
Consider the level of soil freezing. sewer system should be below this value. If this is not possible, for example, when the freezing level is too low, then other methods will have to be used. This is either the insulation of the pipeline, or the installation of a heating cable.

When all the nuances are taken into account, you can proceed with the installation of the system.

Installation of external sewerage

This is a labor-intensive process associated with a large amount of earthwork. If the house is too large and there will be many people living in it, you may need to use an excavator. But in most cases excavation you can do it yourself, using only shovels.

It all starts with the definition of the main sewer pipeline. To do this, from the exit of the riser from the house, lines are laid directly to the installation site of the septic tank. They dig trenches for pipes and a pit for a septic tank. If you have enough assistants, then start digging from different ends - thereby you will reduce the time for work.

It is necessary to dig trenches at a slight angle - 2-3 centimeters per 1 running meter pipe being laid. This slope will ensure the gravity flow of the structure. Now it remains to fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand 10-15 centimeters, again measuring the slope. After that, you can proceed to the installation of pipes.

Usually plastic sewer pipes are used for this. If the house is small, then the diameter of the pipe can be taken 110 millimeters. And if it is large, then it is better not to risk it and install a pipe with a diameter of 150 millimeters. Although in practice, 110 mm is quite enough.

The pipes are joined together by a socket joint. Outdoor and internal sewerage connected with two-way couplings. The same fitting is used to connect the pipe and the septic tank.

If the sewerage of a summer cottage is a complex branched network, then other types of fittings - tees, crosses, bends - go into action.

Septic tanks for suburban sewerage

Septic tank for cleaning cesspools

This is the main part of the system, which is responsible for the collection and disposal of wastewater. Usually on summer cottages use 3 types of prefabricated installations:

Local installation with an aerobic method of waste decomposition.
Local installation with anaerobic decomposition method.

Let's take a closer look at each variety.

It is a conventional cesspool installation in the form of a well or container made of metal or plastic. More recently, summer residents used cesspools. By and large, storage septic tank and there is a cesspool, only in a modern design.

For its construction, you can use different Construction Materials. It can be brick, stone or block wells well insulated walls. But this method has already been abandoned by many due to the complexity of their construction.

It is much easier to install ready-made reinforced concrete rings. They are mounted on top of each other, thereby selecting the required volume of the future well. Moreover, modern concrete rings are produced in a sufficiently large size, which allows not to deepen the pit, but to expand it. This mainly applies to areas where ground water lie close to the soil surface.

It is even easier to purchase a ready-made plastic tank. You don't need to install it crane, as is done with concrete rings. These containers are very light because they are light in weight. So 2-3 people can handle them. And the installation itself is quick and easy.

Anaerobic septic tanks

This is very simple installations, which you can build with your own hands or purchase ready-made.

An example of such a device is two wells from concrete rings. One is completely sealed and has a solid bottom. The second, on the contrary, without a bottom, but with a filter pad made of crushed stone and sand. Passing through it, partially purified water is completely freed from impurities and penetrates into groundwater. At the same time, the more first sealed wells in a row of a septic tank, the cleaner water at the exit.

If you take a ready-made tank, then this is a container of several compartments. In them, water is purified, overflowing from compartment to compartment. But for such containers, filtering fields are required.

Aerobic septic tank for household cleaning Wastewater.

Such devices provide a high degree wastewater treatment. At the same time, sewage from organic matter is decomposed by bacteria.

They need oxygen to survive and reproduce. Therefore, it is injected into the septic tank with a special compressor. And the more microorganisms in the septic tank, the more efficient the installation.

Some models have chemical cleaning, and this is already a 100% guarantee that the output water will be completely clean. Of course, you can’t use it in everyday life, but it is suitable for irrigation.

And some more helpful tips.

When choosing a septic tank, determine its volume in advance. The exact calculation is based on 3 indicators:

number of people living in the house
the daily rate of water consumption by one person is 200 liters
three-day volume of processed wastewater

After laying the pipeline, do not plan the construction of facilities in the places where sewer pipes are laid.

If the external sewerage is too long, then several manholes must be installed. Through them, you can carry out system maintenance and clear blockages. The distance between the manholes should be within 20-25 meters.

That's all the subtleties regarding the conduct of a sewer system in your home.