Grouting joints between tiles - the final touch! Do-it-yourself tile grouting: mix selection and use

The final step in decorating a bathroom with tiles is always grouting. After carrying out this operation, the tiled masonry acquires completeness and accuracy.

Do-it-yourself grouting tiles in the bathroom - quite available work for anyone, even an inexperienced master. One has only to start and "fill" his hand - and the further process will go quickly. It should be noted that much in carrying out such finishing works depends on the chosen material. So, for those who do not have experience in work, it is better to choose a grout that dries long enough. Using a fast-curing material can ruin the whole look of even a well-placed tile.

The joint filler is designed to protect the adhesive composition on which the tiles are laid, the surfaces of walls and floors from the penetration of moisture, dirt, mold, as well as for the final aesthetic design of the coating. Therefore, you can’t do without grouting - finishing material with open seams will not linger on walls and floors for a long time, and on the surfaces under it a favorable environment will be created for the development of mold and fungus, which will sooner or later hit the base.

To make it easy to work with the material, and the seams between the tiles turned out to be neat and reliable, any grout must meet certain requirements. A mixture prepared from dry formulations or sold already in ready-made, should have the following properties:

• The uniformity of the composition will greatly facilitate the work - in this case it will completely fill all the seams. It is unacceptable that the mixture has hard inclusions that tend to create “plugs” in the gaps between the tiles that will prevent the grout from penetrating to the entire depth of the seam, leaving air voids.
• The elasticity of the solution will also contribute to high-quality filling of the joints, as it will be easily distributed over the recesses and will allow you to work quickly.
• Strength after curing. The grout should not crumble, and when cleaning it should not be washed out.
• Hydrophobicity of the material after curing. The joint filler should repel moisture, not absorb it.
• Resistance to household chemicals detergents, because any tile flooring requires periodic cleaning.
• aesthetic appearance. The joints between the tiles should be smooth and neat, and the shade of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile as much as possible.

Types of grouts according to the material of manufacture

To date, on sale you can find one and two-component grouts produced in the form of dry mixes, ready-made pastes and solutions. They are made on various basic bases:

• Cement.
• Polymer-cement.
• Cement-sand.
• Polyurethane.
• Epoxy and furan, produced on the basis of resins.
• Silicone.

In addition, there are grouts that can be made by hand from alabaster, gypsum, cement and sand, clay and lime, sodium "liquid glass" and other materials.

However, independent production material may not be of very high quality, and the filler will simply crumble out of the seams under the influence of external factors - humidity and temperature fluctuations. Grouts produced in the factory in compliance with all technologies and with the use of special antiseptic additives are undoubtedly more reliable than those that will be made at home.

Therefore, it is better to buy finished materials especially since they are quite affordable. And making grout with your own hands is recommended only in extreme cases.

Cement based joint fillers

Cement-based grouts remain the most popular and widely used. They are manufactured by most well-known manufacturing companies. building mixtures.

Cement-based grouts can be divided into two types - made with or without sand.

The mixture, which has sand in its composition, is used to seal wide seams, more than 4 millimeters. Narrow gaps are filled with softer fine-grained grouts made in combination with polymer components. In the instructions for use located on the packaging, the manufacturer always indicates for what width of seams a particular composition is intended.

For the manufacture of mixtures, Portland cement is used, which has a fine grinding, due to which, when kneading, the mixture is homogeneous. In addition, in order to achieve the elasticity of the solution, the manufacturer adds lime components to it.

The mixture can be made using water room temperature, or latex based. The latter will have the name of polymer-cement grout.

A properly mixed mixture will provide a smooth and even high-quality seam, which will not only reliably close the gaps from moisture, but also give accuracy to the entire masonry.

Cement-based mixes can be packed in paper bags or plastic pails.

Cement grouts may have different colour. Some manufacturers make formulations already in color, while others have coloring pigments included in the kit and are added only during manufacture.

If desired, metallic "gold" or "silver" powder can be added to the grout - this will make the appearance of the finish richer and give it a specific elegance.

Silicone grouts

Silicone joint filler is a one-component composition, packed in special plastic cartridges (tubes) and applied to the joints with a construction gun. This type of grout consists of silicone with an acid hardener. The material is, in fact, a sealant. It completely closes the seams, is moisture resistant and elastic, has antiseptic qualities.

Silicone sealant is an excellent joint filler for particularly difficult areas

Such a joint filler is most often used in combination with other grout compositions. Basically, they close gaps only in problem areas, for example, at the junctions of planes or in the area where the bathtub adjoins the tile, since it has a fairly high price and requires a lot of consumption. However, if possible, it can be applied to all seams, and having any width. Its disadvantage can only be called what is produced silicone sealant in a poor variety of shades - mainly white or transparent compositions prevail.

It is easy to fill the seams with silicone sealant, the main thing is to make the right cut on the cap attached to the cartridge - it must match the width of the seam, and evenly press the handle of the construction gun. Then the aggregate will flow into the seams in an even strip.

Resin grouts

• Epoxy grout

Epoxy grouts consist of two components - epoxy composition and hardener. The mass of the solution is mixed immediately before application.

This type of grout is different high strength and resistance to external mechanical influences, as well as to high humidity and significant temperature changes.

Epoxy grout has a very long service life. Such a grout does not lose its original form for 45-50 years.

After connecting the two components of the grout, it acquires a viscous consistency, and it is quite difficult to work with it. Therefore, if there is no experience in filling the seams, but it is decided to use this particular type of material, then it is better to entrust the work to a professional master.

Epoxy grout is recommended to be used in cases where wide, over 6 mm seams are provided between the tiles. It fills the cavities well and, when hardened, acquires high density close to the density of the tile itself.

In order for the cladding of walls and floors where epoxy filler was used to have an aesthetic appearance, you need to choose high quality ceramic tiles with an ideal smooth edges and corners, otherwise the grout will not hide, but, on the contrary, will emphasize the flaws of the finishing material.

There is a variant of epoxy filler, which includes in its composition of Portland cement, which plays the role of a reinforcer. Working with such material is identical to mixing and applying cement grout, but as it cures, it acquires the characteristics of a traditional epoxy aggregate.

One of the types of metal powder can be added to the epoxy mixture, traditionally or using Portland cement, if desired. In this case, the tile frame will turn out to be very original, and it will especially look advantageous if the seams are wide, about 6 ÷ 8 mm.

The price of this type of grout is quite high, so it is rarely used at home. Basically, it goes to work when facing surfaces in industrial workshops and laboratory facilities, where its strength, durability, and resistance to aggressive environments are especially needed.

• Furan resin filler

This type of grout is made on the basis of furanol with the addition of fupfilovogo alcohol. The resulting material during hardening acquires the most high quality resistance to any influences, whether chemical detergents, acids, ultraviolet rays, moisture and temperature. The composition of this material, as well as in the epoxy mixture, does not include water, so it completely lacks the ability to absorb it.

When choosing this filler, you need to know that it is quite difficult to work with it, since a special approach to the preparation of joint surfaces is required.

The disadvantages of this material include its high price and lack of color variety because it has only one color - black.

This grout is rarely used to improve tile laying at home, although it should be noted that black is combined with any of the shades of the color scheme. If the tile is of high quality and has no flaws along the edges, then framing it in black will give the finish rigor and clarity.

• Polyurethane grouts

The most convenient type of joint filler to use is a ready-made elastic compound based on polyurethane resins and water dispersion without the use of cement. The solution does not require preparation, as it is sold in the form of a ready-made homogeneous paste.

It is suitable for grouting 1-6 mm wide joints between ceramic tiles and glass mosaics.

The composition of the grout is well distributed in the gaps, filling them completely. After the final hardening and polymerization, it is well cleaned of dirt and has a high water-repellent characteristics.

This type of joint filler has a rich range of pastel shades, which allows it to be matched to any tile.

Polyurethane-based grout is suitable for grouting tiles on horizontal and vertical surfaces of the bathroom, as well as for other rooms, including those with heated floors.

Self-preparation of grout for joints

Just in case, it would be nice to know a few recipes for making grout at home, as there are different situations from which it is urgently necessary to find a way out. Knowing the composition and manufacturing technology, it is not difficult to make a filler for joints.

• Cement-sand mixture

The most accessible and simple recipe for making aggregate is the use of cement and fine sand for it. They are taken in proportions of 1:1 or 1:2. The two ingredients are mixed in a dry form, and then water is added to them in small portions. The composition is thoroughly mixed and brought to a homogeneous state - it should have the consistency of thick sour cream.

For cooking cement-sand grout can be used in both gray and white cement, and to give the composition a certain shade, coloring pigments are added to it - they can be purchased in dry or dissolved form.

In addition, metal powder can be added to the solution, which will make it indistinguishable from that bought at a hardware store.

To enhance the elasticity of the mixture, latex additives are sometimes added to it. Thus, a classic grout will be obtained, which will be identical to that produced in the factory.

• Gypsum grout

Grout mastic can also be prepared from gypsum, using slaked lime as a plasticizer additive. This ingredient is necessary, because without it, the hardened gypsum will be very fragile.

In addition, lime will prolong the setting time of gypsum grout. Everyone knows that gypsum quickly sets and hardens, so you should not make a large number of material - it is best to do this in small portions. After using up each portion of the grout, before preparing the next one, the container and spatula should be cleaned well each time, as small and large hardened gypsum particles will interfere with work.

Gypsum is a fragile material and not plastic enough, therefore, when mechanical action may crumble. In addition, it is able to absorb moisture, so it is better not to use such a grout in the bathroom.

• alabaster grout

Today, alabaster is not as popular as it used to be, but it continues to be used in construction. This material is a type of gypsum, or more precisely, it is burnt his option.

It has always been used to seal joints between slabs, cracks and depressions in plaster, so before its supply could be found in every home. Alabaster faded into the background after appearing in specialized stores of various building mixtures, which have a narrow purpose and do an excellent job with a variety of problems.

If necessary, it is quite possible to prepare mastic for sealing seams from this material. The process of its preparation is simple and consists in adding water to dry alabaster in small portions. Do not knead a large amount of the mixture, as it, like gypsum, quickly loses its elasticity and hardens.

Alabaster grout is also not very durable - it will not last more than 3-5 years. But temporarily it can be used if there is a need to close the seams, but there is no way to purchase ready-made material.

• clay grout

No need to write off such material as clay. No wonder it has always been used for waterproofing works because it has good hydrophobic properties. The preparation of joint filler from this material will create a little more trouble than when mixing it from cement and sand or from gypsum. Clay requires cleaning and wiping, because it may contain various hard inclusions from which it must be freed. Then, it is soaked, as it must acquire plasticity.

Lime is added to the finished, well-mixed clay mass to enhance plasticity and cement to make the grout harden faster. Lime and cement are poured quite a bit. The proportions of the solution are approximately 10:1:1 - the main role in it all the same clay is given.

For manufacturing, you can use material of any color, if desired, color and metallic powder are added to it.

Clay will reliably protect the seams from moisture, it is not afraid of temperature changes, and if necessary, it will not be difficult to clean the seams from it in order to replace it with a more professional grout.

How much grouting material is needed?

So for quality finishes best to use special formulations industrial production. But how many do you need to buy?

Usually on the package grout composition the manufacturer indicates the average consumption of material per square meter tiled surface. However, these data are very approximate, since they do not take into account the size of the tile and the specific thickness of the seams.

Probably, everyone understands that the smaller the tile in size, the more it fits per unit area and, therefore, the longer the total length of the seams. And the required amount of grout for tiles various types may vary significantly.

The general formula can be expressed as follows:

Ry = (L + M) / (L × M) × h × d × k

In the formula, the alphabetic characters are:

Ry- specific consumption of grout per square meter of area;

L and M- respectively, the length and width of the ceramic tiles chosen for laying (mm);

h– tile thickness (mm);

d- the planned width of the gap between the tiles - the thickness of the seam (mm);

k- coefficient taking into account the density mortar mix material. It will not be a big mistake to take its value approximately 1.7 ÷ 1.8 - for most grout mixtures density indicators are exactly the same (in kg / dm³).

The resulting value will only need to be multiplied by the area of ​​​​the surface covered with tiles and, for reliability, “throw” another 10% of the reserve:

Rsum= 1.1×Ry × S

S- the area of ​​the surface to be tiled.

Rsum- the total amount of grout that needs to be purchased (in kilograms).

To make it easier for the reader, a calculator is provided below. calculation, which contains all the above ratios, including the 10% reserve.

Calculator for calculating the required amount of grout for tile joints

Choose a grout. There are three main types of grout: sanded, sandless, and epoxy. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, but the choice depends on how large the joints you fill. Grout shrinks as it dries, so use the correct type of grout to minimize cracking.

Sealant your tiles. Sealant your tile before grouting if it is made of a porous material such as a natural stone or some types of ceramics. You can ask the sellers in the store where you bought it about the quality of your tiles.

Prepare the grout. Prepare the grout according to the manufacturer's instructions using a spatula or other suitable tool. Add 2/3-3/4 of the volume of water needed to the grout maker, then add the grout compound, mix it, and then add the remaining water a little at a time until you reach the desired consistency. With the right consistency, you can shape the mixture into a ball shape.

• There are also many others useful supplements, which you can buy and mix into your solution. They can help fight staining, extend grout life, and have other beneficial features. Talk to a salesperson at your local hardware store about what you can purchase.
• After you have mixed the solution, leave it for 10 minutes and then mix again, this can help solve shrinkage problems. But you will have less time to work with it.
• Epoxy grout dries incredibly fast. When using epoxy grout, leave a small amount of the mixture to work, and put the rest in freezer. The grout will freeze, but it will thaw quickly when you take it out of the freezer.

Finally, the laying of tiles is completed, and, as it seems, the most simple work- grouting. Having started work, you suddenly, with surprise, notice that without grout, the tiled surface looked better before.

This is not surprising if the case is taken up for the first time. To avoid such problems, we suggest learning how to grout the seams on the floor on the tile. Of course, it is unlikely that everything will turn out well the first time, but you can learn much faster with the right guidance, which is much better than learning from your own mistakes.

Types of grouts

What are the seams? Fugues are divided into different types- cement, polymeric and based on epoxy resin. Based on these materials, some subspecies of grouts were developed - epoxy-cement and polymer-cement.

To make it clear what is at stake, and which of these mixtures is suitable in your case, we suggest finding out in which cases they are used and how they differ.

The choice of grout is influenced by 2 main factors:

1. Features of the room and the level of humidity.
2. The width of the tile joint.

And now in more detail about each type of grout (fugue).

Cement

Already from the name it becomes clear what the composition of this fugue is, but it is only used in its manufacture not gray, but white cement mixed with fine purified river sand.

It is clear that there can be no talk of any plasticity of such a fugue, therefore, even with a slight fluctuation of the base (for example, a wooden floor or walls), cracks form in the seams.

As you know, cement compositions are hygroscopic, so this type of grout is not recommended for use in rooms with high humidity, otherwise mold and other types of fungi will settle in them.

In order for such a grout to last as long as possible, it is recommended to use a water-repellent impregnation.

Cement grout goes on sale in a powdered state, and is mixed with water immediately before being applied to the seams. In a diluted state, it is not for sale, as it quickly seizes. The grouting of the tile joints is done with a rubber trowel or spatula, and then leveled with a soft, damp sponge.

Also, this "dust" can cause irritation, and even inflammation of the eyes. The use of a respirator and protective goggles is highly recommended.

Polymer-cement

This type of fugue differs from the one described above only in that polymer components are present in its composition. Thanks to the additive, the grout turned out to be more durable, plastic and moisture resistant, therefore it became suitable for use in bathrooms and for grouting tiles laid on a wooden base.

Grouting is performed in the same way as in the previous case.

Polymer

Polymer fugue is elastic because it does not contain cement. It is made on the basis of silicone, and is designed to work with porcelain stoneware or stone. It is used when filling very small joints of this cladding material intended for seamless laying.

The polymer base is not afraid of moisture, so this fugue can be used in a bath or bathroom, and the fact that this composition is plastic prevents the appearance of seams during the thermal expansion of the facing material. It is also suitable for grouting floor tiles, under which a warm floor is mounted.

Due to the fact that such a composition has high adhesion, it is highly undesirable for it to fall on front side tile, as it will not be easy to clean. Will serve as protection masking tape glued along the seams. You will need a grout gun, with which you can fill the space between the tiles with grout.

Epoxy and epoxy cement

Such grouts are the most durable and resistant to significant temperature changes, various influences, including aggressive detergents.

They are not afraid of deformations of the base, therefore they are used in public spaces or on open areas of terraces and loggias.

note

The composition of the grout includes several components, but they are mixed in the right proportion immediately before use. This grout hardens very quickly, so its use is limited.

You have to work with such a composition quickly, applying with a spatula or using a special bag with a metal nozzle, thanks to which it will be possible to completely fill the seam.

Epoxy based

Although this grout is expensive, it is resistant to chemicals Therefore, it is used in industrial and commercial premises. It is only suitable for sealing joints larger than 6 mm. Working with epoxy grout is inconvenient because it is viscous and difficult to penetrate into the seam.

Polyurethane

With the help of polyurethane compounds, you can make a sealed seam, and install a "warm floor" system under the tile. The grout does not need to be stirred - it is ready to use.

What to look for when choosing a fugue

To figure out how to properly grout the seams on the tiles on the floor, you need to pay attention to some parameters:

• Tiles are made from different materials. It can be either glazed or unglazed. These factors cannot be ignored when choosing a grout.
• Be sure to find out if the grout is compatible with the adhesive used when laying the tiles.
• Where and how intensively the tile covering will be used.
• What is the width of the tile joint.
• The color of the facing material and its compatibility with interior elements.

Often detailed instructions instructions for use and recommendations can be found on the packaging. What do you need to pay attention to? First of all, the compatibility of the grout with the material from which the tile is made.

• For sealing the joints of the laid porcelain stoneware are not used cement grouts, since this facing material hardly absorbs water. Suitable in this case epoxy grout for floor tiles. One more factor will have to be taken into account - some compositions can change the color of the product, and even destroy the glaze.
• It is better to seal the joints between tiles in the bathroom with cement-polymer or polymer grout, because it has the ability to absorb tile expansion, preventing moisture from passing under the laid coating.
• Although in some cases it is possible to use a universal grout, with which it will be possible to seal the joints in ceramic tiles, 2-22 mm wide, nevertheless, preference is given to a specific material selected for certain operating conditions. In this case, the width of the seam is taken into account - the larger it is, the more stable the grout should be.
• Often there are difficulties with choosing the color of the grout, but, in addition to the existing design idea, it is important to know that if it is contrasting, then all laying defects will become visible.

We did not mention furan grout, because it is black, and therefore it is used very rarely in everyday life, but if this color harmoniously fits into the floor lining, which has a cherry or saturated green color, then its use will be justified. Moreover, this composition is very durable and is not afraid of water.

Tool

To do the job, you will need an inexpensive, but specific tool:

1. A bucket in which the solution will be mixed.
2. Drill with a mixer nozzle (needed for large batches).
3. Rubber grater.
4. Putty knife.
5. Narrow rubber spatula.
6. Foam sponge.
7. Soft cloth.

Depending on the reveal chosen, it may be necessary special tool intended for its application.

grouting process

So, a suitable grout has been acquired, it remains to figure out how to grout the seams on the tiles with your own hands. Let's consider the procedure.

The tiled floor is ready for further use.

Video - grouting floor tiles

Master class on grouting on the floor from German comrades, watch, learn.

The very first, to ensure the moisture resistance of the entire plane. After all, tiles are laid on the surface in rooms where there is constantly high humidity or water often flows. Therefore, splashes, fumes, etc. And if floor tiles the floors are constantly being washed. Therefore, water will get under the coating of the tiles.

Secondly, there are no tiles that are perfectly square or with right angles, so there will be gaps at the joints anyway.

Third, the tiles cannot be laid "very close" one to one. There is such a thing - temperature increase. Tight laying leads to deformation of the plane and, as a result, "swelling" of the entire "masonry".

What "grout" to apply

First of all, it is necessary to keep in mind the difference between sealant and sealant (grout). For seams, specifically grout is used. There are several types of it, and the difference is in the base: it is either cement (with additives) or epoxy. In everyday life, it is better to use cement-based grouts. They are easier to work with and cheaper.

How to prepare grout

Be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendation. Various composition requires its own know-how. It is better to purchase the composition in dry form, it is much cheaper. Naturally, you need to find out how to dilute: with water or latex (liquid). Dry polymer compositions mix only with water!

There should not be a lot of water in the grout, otherwise the quality of the whole work will suffer. Grout is added to water, and not vice versa. The resulting composition must be plastic and very easy to distribute over the plane.

Stages of work:

1. Grout preparation. In addition to the already established, you need to know that the batch must be done carefully, not allowing it to get inside air bubbles. It will only weaken the effect of the solution;
2. Laying out the solution. Using a spatula, the solution is practically pressed into the seam, evenly distributed along the entire length. The hand makes diagonal movements. The task is to fill the inherent vacuums to the maximum. It is more comfortable to work in a small area, and not immediately along the entire wall;
3. Wet cleaning of the plane. It is done after sufficient solidification of the mixture;
4. Smoothing and smoothing seams. It is made exactly by the manufactured jointing.

With a strong desire to obtain an imitation of obsolete masonry, additional work is carried out.

Related video:

Seam grouting. How to grout the seams of ceramic tiles. Video lesson.

This video demonstrates grouting between ceramic tiles on walls. See if you have...

Now you can proceed to the final stage - grouting the seams and processing them with sealant. A well-done grout can mask existing installation defects, while a bad grout can completely ruin the impression of a flawless installation.

First, check that the adhesive on which you laid the tiles is completely dry, and carefully clean the seams from debris and dirt. Remove any separators (crosses) remaining after laying between the tiles. Some separator manufacturers state that they can be left in the joints and covered with grout. But in this case, the layer of grout above the separators will be thinner, so it will have a different color after it sets, and can spoil the appearance of the entire grout.

If you are working with glazed tiles, you can immediately start grouting. If you have laid unglazed tiles, you must first dampen the top and sides of each tile to prevent too much moisture being sucked out of the grout. Some tile installers use garden sprayers to spray water over the surface of the tiles.

Regardless of which method you choose, the main thing is not to overdo it. Puddles of water left on the tiles or in the joints can damage the grout, which can then crack. (In order to have no doubts about the preparation of tiles and joints, it is better to consult with the grout manufacturer).

Types of grouting materials

There are 2 main types of grouts: cement-based grout and epoxy-based grout.

Tip: when choosing, do not confuse grouting materials with sealing compositions made of elastomer, which are used in construction - they fill the joints of various building materials. These seals include a silicone seal.

The store will tell you that it is indeed used for tiles, and they will be right. Just do not fill the seams between the tiles with silicone sealant. It is designed to fill voids when laying tiles on another surface. It is sometimes used to fill seams, but this is best avoided.

Cement-based grouts are a dry mix that is diluted with water or liquid latex. Ready-made grouts are also sold, but usually they are much more expensive. Cement-based grouts are usually made from cement and differ only in terms of the additives that are included in their composition. All of them can be divided into 3 classes: industrial cement, dry hardener and latex mixture.

Epoxy grout contains epoxy resin and hardener, which make the seams impact-resistant and resistant to various chemicals. This type of grout is the most expensive, and therefore is mainly used in industrial and commercial premises. In addition, epoxy grout is viscous and quite difficult to work with. If your tiles are no thicker than 12mm and the grout width is less than 6mm, then this grout will not be able to penetrate such narrow joints.

Color selection

When choosing a grout color, rely not only on quality, but also on your aesthetic preferences and tastes. It is best to choose colored grout in the same store where you buy the tiles. Since the method of buying "at random" does not always justify your expectation of the final result.

After reviewing all the possible combination finishes, you can (and even need to) visually transfer it to your surface. It should be remembered that a variety of color combinations affects the perception of the entire pattern. For example, light grout on a dark background (or vice versa) creates more geometric contrast in your composition.

This approach emphasizes the advantages of each tile. By the way, the game of contrast goes well with mosaics and small tiles. But if you decide to purchase a mosaic panel or photo tile, it is recommended to choose a color that matches the cladding.

You can also achieve the color you need by adding dyes to the original white or colored grout. Difficult, but possible. But here, of course, one cannot do without a share of luck and risk. As a result, the color may not be very bright, sometimes even unpredictable and less resistant to fading.

In the event that it is difficult for you to choose or make suitable color, then you will not be mistaken by making your choice in favor of white grout. This is classic version. Almost perfect for most ceramic tiles. In wet rooms it must be moisture resistant. Additionally, the seams can be treated with a special protective agent to prevent darkening.

But for the floors White color may be too slick. And after a short period of time, it will look dirty. Here you can get by with a gray grout, close in color to cement.

What is sealant used for?

The use of sealant has 2 purposes:

• it protects ceramic tiles from stains on it and in the seams
• it protects the tiles and grouts to a certain extent from excessive absorption of water

In order to avoid spots on the surface of unglazed tiles and on the seams, it is necessary to cover the lining with a liquid transparent sealant. Most sealants are made from silicone, lacquer, or acrylic. When choosing suitable sealant it is necessary to take into account the types of tiles and grout, as well as the place where the cladding is done.

Now let's learn how to grout the seams, apply grout and sealant. In addition, always follow the instructions of the manufacturer of the product you have chosen.

Planned time costs: Depend on the size of the area; it takes about 3 weeks for the grout to dry completely.
Planned cost of funds: 30-50 dollars.
Initial Tips: Check with the seller to select the most suitable grout.
Safety Tips: Cement-based grouts can cause eye, skin, and lung inflammation. When working with them, use a respirator, goggles and rubber gloves.

Grout Width

The width of the grout is partly a matter of personal preference, some people like narrow grouts, for example. Too wide seams, as it were, visually suppress the tile. square tile sizes 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 and even 60 cm will look neat with 3 mm seams. wrong shape Tiles are less noticeable with wider grouts, but try to keep them no wider than 12mm. The fact is that the wider the seam, the more likely it is to crack.

A joint with a width of more than 12 mm will be stronger if sand is added to the grout with big size particles, but this does not always help to save wide seam from cracking. (Another reason why grout can crack and crumble is too much liquid when mixing the grout.)

Equally should not be done grout seams very narrow, because it will be difficult to fill them with grout properly, and as a result, water will seep through such joints into the cladding. Many craftsmen feel more confident that the quality of the cladding will be at the proper level if the joints are wide enough to be filled with latex or acrylic grout, as a result of which the joints will not only be waterproof, but can also serve as shock absorbers and expanding tiles. This seam capacity becomes negligible when the seam width is less than 1 mm.

Grouting tiles

The grouting process includes several stages:

• Mixing grout
• Keeping the solution for better wetting
• Re-mixing grout
• Solution distribution
• Cleaning up excess grout

Tools and materials that will be needed for grouting:

• Respirator (for grout containing cement)
• Rubber gloves
• Protective glasses
• Scraper with rubber nozzle or roller
• Grout
• Bucket
• Sponge
• Stitching, a wooden stick with a sharpened end or a toothbrush
• net cloth
• Plywood
• sealant
• Paint roller or small paint brush

Grout application

First lay a mound of grout on the surface of the tiles (you can just pour the grout out of a bucket if you're working on the floor, or scoop the grout with a rectangular trowel to apply on the walls).

In order to distribute the grout, a trowel (in the appropriate version for floors or walls) is more suitable than a steel trowel.

Hold it at a 30 degree angle to the tile (as shown in the photo) and apply the grout to the surface of the tile diagonally (as shown in the picture). Walk the trowel over the entire surface two or three times, but do not just cover the seams with mortar, but try to rub it in, press it firmly into the seam so that it is densely filled with grout.

The stronger the resistance, the more tightly the seam is filled and the stronger it will be. main idea consists in filling with grout to the top all the corners and voids around the tiles that remain after applying the adhesive. During the grouting process, the liquid will leave the grout, and the seams will be filled with particles of sand and cement - you can say that you get a solid instead of a liquid cement paste.

Do not grout the entire surface at once, it is better to first spread the grout in a small area of ​​\u200b\u200babout one or two square meters. meters until you figure out how fast the grout sets. Thus, if you have to work with grout that sets quickly, you will need to stop and do the cleaning.

Sometimes it is possible to immediately overwrite about 9 square meters. meters before you start cleaning it; in other cases, only a small area can be grouted. Working in a small area will help you determine the speed at which you should work.

Using a grout bag

If you are working on a surface that is particularly difficult to clean after grouting, such as antique brick cladding, use a grout bag to fill the joints. This bag looks and functions just like a pastry bag for decorating cakes. At the end of the bag is fixed a metal tip approximately the same width as the grout. The bag is filled with grout, and then it is squeezed out with force through the tip into the seam.

When working with a trowel, place the tip of the trowel at the top of the grout and move it forward along the edge of the grout as it fills up. For greater efficiency, fill the joint along its entire length, and not around a single tile. Usually, all horizontal seams (along the x-axis) are filled first, and then vertical ones (along the y-axis).

Squeeze out a little more grout than seems necessary. After it has set slightly, tamp the grout into the joint with jointing or a piece of smooth metal tube, the diameter of which is greater than the width of the joints to be filled. Then let the grout pressed in the joint set for half an hour, then remove the excess with a stiff brush.

Grout removal

The first removal of excess grout is dry. When all the joints are filled, you will need a trowel to remove excess grout, which should be held at an almost right angle to the surface of the tiles (as shown in the picture). When doing this, it is necessary to move the trowel diagonally relative to the seams, otherwise the edge of the tool may fall into the seam and remove part of the grout from it (if this happens, just add a little grout to the seam and level the surface of the seam with the edge of the grater).

Once the excess has been removed, allow the grout to set before cleaning. While you're grouting and cleaning, remember to stir the grout in the bucket from time to time to keep it soft before applying it to new areas.

The second grout removal is wet. What time to start? After dry cleaning with the edge of a trowel (which removes most of the excess grout from the surface of the tiles), every tile needs to be wet cleaned to some extent. The time it takes for the grout to fully set before wet cleaning varies greatly from set to set.

It may be 5 minutes, or it may take 20 minutes or more. The rate of evaporation of liquid from the grout is affected by weather, type of base, glue and tiles.

Keep in mind that grout residue on the surface of the tile can set fairly quickly, although it may take longer to grout in the joints. To assess the readiness of the surface of tiles and grouts for cleaning, you can use a sponge: wet the sponge as much as possible, and then test a small area of ​​​​the cladding surface. The grout in the joints should be elastic and dense, but not hard.

If the grout has set too hard, the tiles will have to be cleaned with great difficulty, and the joints may be damaged. On the other hand, if the grout from the joints is stretching behind the sponge, this means that the grout has not set sufficiently. Wait a few minutes and check again. Cleaning can begin when the grout in the joints remains in place.

If it turns out that too much time has passed before cleaning, and the grout has dried to the surface of the tile, you can remove it with a special abrasive float. (Unlike other cleaning graters, this grater does not leave scratches on the surface of the tiles - to be sure, check first on the cut of the tile). After cleaning the dried grout residue, walk over the entire surface with a well-wrung sponge.

There are many techniques for cleaning grout, some of them quite unusual. For example, some tilers pour dry grout over the joints (so that the wet grout in the joints dries faster). Others use sawdust to draw excess moisture and the excess grout could be easily removed. Many of these methods weaken and thereby destroy grouts, so we do not recommend using them.

It is better to use a combination of tried and tested techniques that is suitable for both commercial and residential cladding. The main principle of this method is to use a minimum of water during cleaning so as not to weaken the grout.

Start of wet cleaning

You will only need a bucket of clean water and a sponge (it is better to take a sponge with rounded edges, so grooves do not form in grout joints).

First, with a sponge, most of the excess grout is quickly removed. Start cleaning the grout from the surface of the tiles with soft circular wiping movements, removing particles of sand and cement.

Be careful not to create grooves in the grouts. Rinse the sponge as soon as the pores of the sponge are filled with particles of cement and sand, and then wring it out well. If it hasn't been too long before cleaning starts, you can remove excess grout from the surface of the tiles in two or three passes.

Clean only at one time small plot(size 1-2 sq. m.), Wetting the sponge frequently to wash off grout particles that have penetrated the pores of the tiles. When you wash the sponge, always try to rinse as well as possible and wring out as hard as possible to make sure that all the grout particles that were in the pores of the tile are washed off. Be sure to shake off excess water from your hands.

If the lining is not larger than 9 square meters. meters, there is no need to change the wash water in the bucket. You can judge by the purity of the water how well the tile is washed (of course, in some commercial projects it is necessary to constantly change the water).

At the second stage, it is necessary to inspect the grout seams, whether they are all neat. Align and smooth the seams with a jointer, a wooden stick with a sharpened end, or the end of a toothbrush. Then trim the edges of the seams with a sponge. Move the sponge parallel to the seam, carefully removing the protrusions and filling the gaps with a small amount of grout at the tip of your finger (wear tight-fitting rubber gloves for this).

The actual joint size depends on the type of tile used and the industrial or artisanal treatment of the top edge of the tile. If the edges of the tile are sharp and straight, the grout in the joints should be flat, flush with the top edge of the tile. If the top edge of the tile is rounded, the tiler must decide how high the joint should be.

Whatever height is chosen, ideally the seam should be even at the top, not convex, although most of the seams then become slightly concave, which is quite acceptable. It is very important to give all seams the same shape and depth.

At the end is the final thorough cleaning tile surfaces from grout residues. As soon as the seams in the cladding are aligned, the surface of the tiles should be thoroughly cleaned again. First rinse and wring out the sponge well. Then make a straight, vertical pass about a meter long with one side of the sponge, moving it slowly towards you - slower than seems necessary - and without stopping (if you move the sponge quickly or jerkily, grout streaks will remain on the surface of the tiles).

After the first pass, turn the sponge over to the clean side and make a similar pass parallel to the first, then stop and rinse the sponge. For one pass, use the freshly washed side of the sponge. Continue this process until the entire area of ​​the cladding has been completely cleaned, trying to be careful so that again the sponge does not drag the grout out of the joints.

If this happens, it may mean that there is too much grout in the seams and the seams need to be trimmed, or there is too much water in the sponge. After such cleaning, all grout residues must be removed from the surface of the tiles, and the joints must be allowed to dry for 15 minutes.

During this pause, the moisture remaining on the tiles after cleaning evaporates and the cement particles that were in the water are deposited on the surface of the tiles. If the tiles are covered with a shiny glaze, and the corners are even and straight, then grout deposits can be easily removed by immediately wiping the surface with gauze or a soft, clean cloth. If the tile has matte surface or rounded corners, you may need another, extra pass with fresh water and a sponge.

If grout residue is still difficult to clean, you may not have cleaned the surface well enough the first time. If there is adhesive left on the surface of the tile, the latex or acrylic additives it contains may be the reason the grout has set harder than usual.

However, whatever the cause, the longer plaque remains on the tiles, the more difficult it is to remove. If you were unable to remove the residue with a damp abrasive grater, then you can try using special solution to remove plaque, or, in extreme cases, resort to the help of acidic cleaners.

If you decide to use special cleaners or acid, keep in mind that the grout must fully set before you use them. However, do not wait for the grout to fully set before completing the final cleaning step - removing any traces of grout from the expansion joints.

Application of sealant

Once the grout has hardened, the tiles and joints can be sealed with sealant according to the manufacturer's instructions. Thoroughly clean the tiles and grouts and let them dry for a few days. Then apply sealant following the manufacturer's instructions. If you will be sealing both the tile and grout in the joints, use a paint roller.

If you will only seal the seams, use a small brush. Any excess sealant that may accidentally get on the surface of the tile should be removed immediately.

Gentle tile care sometimes requires you to seal the tile every 2 years (sometimes more often if required by manufacturers). Anyway, if you notice. That the tile began to get dirty more often and became more difficult to clean, it means that it is time to cover it with an additional layer of sealant, having previously thoroughly cleaned it.

End of work

Place a sheet of plywood on the floor and forbid anyone to walk on the floor until the grout is completely dry. Be careful, some types of grout dry up to two weeks (check required time manufacturer's instructions)