Cabbage is not the easiest crop for a gardener. Yes, she is not afraid of the cold, but quila, powdery mildew, as well as slugs, butterflies and sucking insects can bring all efforts to grow cabbage to naught. What you need to know about seedlings of cabbage, planting it in open ground, disease and pest control?

cabbage seedling

How to understand whether cabbage seedlings are ready for transplanting into the soil or not yet?

Seedlings at the time of planting in open ground (about 30-45 days after germination) should have 4-5 true leaves and a height of about 15 cm.

If the seedling has outgrown, and she has more leaves than necessary, it is better to cut off the 2 lower sheets, since they will wither anyway, and the moisture will evaporate up to this point. The stem of overgrown seedlings, as a rule, forms a curved knee. When planting in the ground, it must be covered with soil, without trying to straighten it.

The transplant should be done in the evening. If the weather is too hot the next day, then the planted seedlings should be shaded for a couple of days, you can use a cap folded from a newspaper sheet. As soon as a new leaf appeared, the seedlings took root.

Is it possible to grow white cabbage in a seedless way?

Such recommendations are given in many books on gardening, but I do not grow cabbage in a reckless way - because of the cruciferous flea, which winters in the soil and can completely devour young shoots. Covering crops with lutrasil does not save the flea, on the contrary, under lutrasil the soil warms up quickly, and the flea leaves the soil earlier than usual (at a temperature of 8 ° C).

Planting cabbage in open ground. Disease control

What measures should be taken when planting cabbage seedlings to avoid clubroot?

Kila is a fungal disease of cruciferous plants, spread by spores. First of all, carefully look at the roots of the seedlings - if there are thickenings on them. These plants should be discarded immediately as they are already infected with clubroot.

A week before planting seedlings, the soil must be treated with 3% Bordeaux liquid (10 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), and when planting seedlings, add 1 dessert spoon of calcium nitrate to the soil in each well, pour a full well of water and after moisture absorbed, plant cabbage. In the future, cabbage can be watered every 2-3 weeks with a solution of this fertilizer (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).

If there is no calcium nitrate, then before planting the seedlings, lower the roots into the Fitosporin solution for 1.5-2 hours. In the future, systematically water the cabbage with a solution of this drug (you can directly on the top of the head; this will also protect the plant from bacteriosis disease) or once every 2-3 weeks with lime milk (a glass of lime per 10 liters of water). This solution must be carefully poured 0.5 liters under each bush.

Why does cabbage get sick with keel and is it possible to get rid of it?

Because your soil is infected with keel. Quila lives only in acidic soils, and the easiest way to deal with it is to deacidify the soil, constantly maintaining its acidity at a pH of 5.5-6.5. To do this, every 2-3 weeks, cabbage should be watered with lime milk. A glass of lime (preferably dolomite flour) must be diluted in 10 liters of water and pour 1 liter of this mash under the root of each cabbage plant. Top up the rest of the lime in the bucket with water and water any other cruciferous plants. All of them do not like acidic soil.

Yellow spots appeared on the upper side of the cabbage leaves, and a gray coating appeared on the lower side. What is it and how to save cabbage?

This is powdery mildew. I advise you to pour the Fitosporin solution. He will save from powdery mildew, and from the black leg. In addition, it is made on the basis of humus, that is, at the same time it is a good organic top dressing.

The humus contains a living soil bacterium Bacillus subtilis, which is kept in a state of anabiosis, that is, in hibernation, by a special preservative. But as soon as the bacterium enters the aquatic environment, it becomes active and begins to devour the pathogens of all fungal and bacterial diseases, since it is a predator.

Don't wait for disease to overwhelm your cabbage. Accept preventive measures, that is, at least once every 2-3 weeks, water the plants with a solution of "Fitosporin", and not only cabbage, but also all vegetable crops. You can use all the vegetables and herbs treated with Fitosporin, as well as fruits and berries, on the same day, but first they must be washed with clean water.

Cabbage Pest Control

In the evening, the cabbage in the garden was normal, and in the morning - all gnawed. Who her so?

These are most likely slugs or snails that love to eat cabbage. They go out to feed at night and gnaw in the leaves. big holes. These pests can be collected and destroyed or fed to chickens. To do this, you need to lay out pieces of slate in their feeding places: slugs climb under them at night, so during the day you just need to turn the slate over and collect pests.

There is an old, old-fashioned method against slugs: dilute 0.25 cups of 9% vinegar in a bucket of water and pour cabbage with this solution on top of the crown in the evening. You can twist a nettle stalk around the cabbage leg. Slugs are afraid of nettle burns. True, in a humid summer, with a large accumulation of slugs on the site, I saw that they also eat nettles.

Slugs and beer
There is an interesting observation of gardeners: slugs love beer. In those places where pests have gnawed large holes on the leaves of plants, dig half-liter jars in the evening (the edges of the jars are flush with the soil), splash beer on the bottom of which. The slugs will get into the jars, but they won't be able to get out. In the morning you will collect them in one jar and fill it with heavily salted water. After death, you can throw the slugs on the compost heap, the birds will peck them willingly. All these methods are suitable for fighting snails.

If we have processed cabbage against pests, then for how long will the protection last and when can cabbage be eaten now?

Look at what you have processed. If you used Fitoverm or Iskra-bio, then these preparations are absorbed by the leaves and protect plants from any pests, including ticks, for three weeks. Pests, even sucking, even gnawing, having tasted the treated plant, immediately stop eating, because these drugs cause paralysis in them. gastrointestinal tract, and die two days later from starvation. After treatment with these preparations, all sprayed plants can be eaten after 48 hours.

How to deal with cabbage white?

The white cabbage lays yellow eggs on the underside of the cabbage leaf. The butterfly is clearly visible, it flies during the day. As soon as this white (or yellow) butterfly flashes, immediately cover the cabbage with lutrasil or put a nylon stocking or a fiberglass bag from sugar on each head. Just dig it well into the soil, because the butterfly is a sneak and will climb into any hole.

Cabbage white is a cleaner and will not lay eggs on a dirty leaf. It is enough to stain it with ashes mixed in water, to which soap is added for better adhesion. Since the cabbage whitefish also does not like the strange smell, you can pour over the cabbage during the flight of the butterfly with an infusion of weeds.

Why does cabbage not tie a head of cabbage?

Cabbage first lays a supply of nutrients in the covering leaves, as in a pantry, to use them when laying a head of cabbage. Usually a head of cabbage begins to be tied at 7-9 covering leaves. For some reason, many people take them off, that is, they ruin the pantry, and the cabbage again stubbornly begins to build them up.

In addition, cabbage can simply undereat and underdrink. Start to give enhanced feeding (at least 2 liters per week), and everything will go fine. The reason may also be the dryness of the soil in hot weather. Increase watering. Another common cause is insufficient lighting. Cabbage is very photophilous and will not tie a head of cabbage in the shade.

Cabbage grafted, watering did not help. I pulled the plant out of the soil, and it has rot on the roots. Why?

The root system of cabbage rots with large amounts of nitrogen in the soil (for example, due to the introduction of fresh manure), with soil moisture above 90%.

Author Galina Kizima Enthusiast gardener with 50 years of experience, author of original methods

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Cultivation of cabbage, control of diseases and pests: 10 questions. Is it possible to grow white cabbage in a seedless way? Disease control. What measures should be taken when planting cabbage seedlings to avoid clubroot?

Kira Stoletova

Frost is one of the most unpleasant weather conditions. In the middle lane, sharp cold snaps can occur both in spring (when cabbage seedlings just fall into the ground) and in autumn (when it's time to harvest). Cabbage seedlings and frosts are a pressing issue for many gardeners.

Reasons for freezing

The risk of freezing to plants depends on several factors:

• climatic conditions at the time of cultivation;
• seedling condition;
• topographic location of the landing site.

External climatic conditions include abrupt changes in weather phenomena - an anomalous drop in temperature or high humidity during a cold wind.

The condition of the seedling determines its health and hardening. A weakened and unhardened plant can die even from a slight cold snap.

risk zone

Areas located in lowlands fall into the risk zone for freezing (especially if there are water bodies and wetlands nearby). Areas that are well warmed by the sun's rays are more likely to grow a crop.

It should be borne in mind that frost resistance depends on the variety of cabbage. Consider whether cauliflower is afraid of autumn frosts. Cauliflower is the most demanding in terms of temperature conditions. White cabbage and broccoli are quite unpretentious, and Brussels sprouts can withstand up to -10 °.

Frost protection methods

The main ways to protect plants from spring and autumn frosts are:

1. Smoke is the most ancient method, which consists in kindling fires at different points in the area. The resulting warm smoke screen softens the negative impact of lower temperatures on seedlings. Smoke is produced exclusively in calm weather, so that the smoke spreads close to the ground and retains a warm protective layer of air. They start lighting fires already at 0 °. Now this method is being abandoned everywhere, because. proved to be unsafe and non-environmental.
2. Irrigation is one of the most common ways to protect plants from freezing. Sprinkling consists in uniformly spraying plantings with warm water through a fine sprayer. In the process of freezing the water, the heat necessary for the seedlings will be released. This method is effective only in calm weather at temperatures up to -3-4 °. In strong wind conditions, sprinkling will only harm the plants. Before the onset of frost, you can water the soil to Sun rays during daylight hours, moist soil was heated, and at night it gave off heat and formed a favorable microclimate for seedlings.
3. Creating a heat-insulating layer - covering plants with newspapers, cardboard, cloth to keep warm. The more layers are created, the more reliably the seedlings will be protected from the cold. The covering material should not be in close contact with the sprouts; it is imperative to maintain an air gap. The heat-insulating layer will make it possible to survive a drop in temperature (below 0 °) for up to a week.
4. Foliar top dressing with fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus is an effective means of resisting cold (up to -5 °). To increase the winter hardiness of plants, fertilizers should be applied at least a day before the onset of a cold snap.

Frozen bushes must be hidden from bright sunlight, so as not to aggravate their condition. It is recommended to treat them with Epin or Zircon solutions to speed up recovery.

Freezing Prevention

The value of hardening for sprouts is difficult to overestimate, it helps to increase frost resistance and strengthen the plant. Differences between seedlings after hardening and without it:

1. Hardened seedlings - well withstands spring and autumn frosts. With proper hardening, seedlings can withstand temperature drops to -3-5 ° without loss.
2. Non-hardened seedlings are very demanding on the weather conditions in which they fell, they do not tolerate even a slight decrease in temperature. Usually grows in greenhouses, where there are no conditions for full hardening.

In difficult climatic conditions, weak and non-hardened plants will die, and strong seedlings will get stronger and give productive ovaries. Under conditions of greenhouse growth, most of the sprouts have no chance of surviving if the weather conditions worsen. Therefore, in a region with regular spring frosts, it is best to cultivate varieties with a late planting in the ground, when the temperature conditions become more favorable.

hardening

Hardening seedlings is one of the most milestones plant care.

Tender cabbage sprouts require mandatory preparation for changes in temperature, which must be carried out even before planting in open ground.

The hardening process is usually carried out 8-10 days before planting and is divided into the following stages:

1. During the first days from the beginning of hardening, it is recommended to carry out a small influx of fresh air into the greenhouse or the room where the seedlings are located. The optimal opening of the window for 4-5 hours. During this time, fragile sprouts will begin to gently adapt to fluctuations in the temperature background.
2. In the next 2-3 days, they are taken out of the greenhouse (room) to fresh air. The ideal option there will be the installation of containers with cabbage seedlings in the garden or veranda. It is important to remember that bright sunlight harmful to tender sprouts, so the seedlings must be covered with a thin material that allows air to pass through. For this purpose, it is best to use gauze.
3. On the sixth or seventh day from the start of hardening, it is necessary to limit the watering of the plant so that the soil does not dry out. Seedlings should be on fresh air all day, until planting it in open ground.

Planting bushes in deep holes with complex fertilizers - used in the absence of insulated beds. Such holes create a good barrier from the wind and better retain moisture after watering, which contributes to the quality protection of cabbage from frost.

Abundant watering of all seedlings in anticipation of a drop in temperature. Watering is especially important for beds with seedlings and seedlings.

Conclusion

Cabbage seedlings tolerate frost quite well if timely preventive measures are taken - hardening, preparation of insulated beds (or planting in deep holes), abundant watering before a cold snap.

White cabbage, color, Brussels and broccoli - all these varieties differ in the perception of low temperatures, from stable frost resistance (Brussels) to thermophilicity (color). From specific features varieties, the state of seedlings, climatic conditions and the topographic location of crops depend on the response to frost of a particular plant.

Need to pick up right time for harvesting, use the appropriate tools and prepare the cabbage for long-term storage. You will also have to take into account the weather conditions and timely monitor the degree of maturity of a whimsical product.

Are you afraid of frost?

Is cauliflower afraid of autumn frosts? Cauliflower is known among other vegetables for its extreme thermophilicity..

If the temperature environment falls below + 8-10˚ C, then small heads begin to form at the base of the white inflorescence, which will subsequently become spare shoots. The development of the main inflorescence, most likely, will stop.

The growth of cauliflower with the onset of cold weather slows down significantly, which requires immediate sending them for ripening at home. Severe frosts can damage cabbage heads, but they still have the opportunity to save with the help of greenhouses.

This is easy to implement only if a stable temperature of +10°C is maintained inside.

Whatever variety of cauliflower you have growing in your area, pay attention to the ripening period, keep track of those that are already ripe, and carefully cut them with a clean knife. Great time to collect warm weather when there was no rain for several weeks.

Try not to overexpose the vegetables in the garden for longer than the prescribed period, otherwise the inflorescences will turn yellow, loosen and lose an impressive proportion of taste and nutrients.

There is no cause for concern if the cabbage is not yet ripe, and it starts to get colder in the yard. You can collect heads of cabbage with a diameter of 5 cm affected by low temperatures and send them for ripening in a greenhouse.

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For growing seedlings of cabbage, several tricks are used so that the harvest is a success. It is customary to distinguish 10 different types of this culture. Each of them has individual varieties. Very often, cabbage is grown through seedlings. To do this, you need to know the features of sowing and observe all the exposure periods.

Cabbage is usually grown from seedlings. If the sprouts are strong and healthy, then it is safe to say that the harvest will be good.

It is important to know how to properly grow seedlings. To do this, it is necessary to produce high-quality, effective care behind the sprouts, and then carefully place them on the garden bed or in the greenhouse.

Growing seedlings of cabbage

First of all, you need to prepare the seeds. To do this, they are disinfected, that is, they are dipped in hot water for 20 minutes, then they are taken out and dipped in cold, boiled water for 2 minutes. Next, dry them. If you purchased seeds from a reputable supplier or store, it is not necessary to decontaminate them, as the treatment has already been carried out. Thanks to this, the cultivation of seedlings will be faster.

Before planting, the seeds must be soaked for a day. The water temperature must be at least + 2°C. This procedure is necessary in order to increase the frost resistance of the plant. It also makes the seeds germinate better. In stores, you can often find special colored seeds that have previously been trained. They don't even need to be soaked before planting. However, it is after soaking that the germination of ordinary seeds can last for 3 years. The time and characteristics of sowing should be compared with the cabbage variety. It is also important to take into account the climatic conditions for the period of growing seedlings. The period of planting seedlings in the ground directly depends on this.

It is important to know all the subtleties of growing cabbage. To do this, determine its age, the period from planting seeds to planting them in a greenhouse. This period is different for each variety. For red and white cabbage, it is 50-60 days, for broccoli 40-45 days, for cauliflower 50 days, for Savoy from 30 to 50 days and for kohlrabi 30-35 days.

In this regard, it is necessary to observe the optimal disembarkation dates. White and red cabbage are planted from March 15 to 25, late varieties of the same breed are planted on April 15. Broccoli and cauliflower should be planted in several crops: the first in mid-March, the second at the end of May. Brussels sprouts are planted in late April, and kohlrabi in mid-March. Seedlings are kept in an open, lit area. First of all, you should start planting white cabbage. Seeds of some breeds, for example, red and Savoy, must be planted in 3 stages with an interval of 4 days.

In order for the cultivation of seedlings to provide good harvest, should determine the biology of culture. Cabbage is cold-resistant, photophilous, tolerates moisture well and makes high demands on the quality of the soil. For sowing, it is recommended to use soft seedling soil. It is important that it is not too loose. The main component that should be present in the optimal amount is peat. Its content in the soil should be at least 80%, sand about 5%, and sod land about 20%. Often a humus mixture (compost) is added to the soil, this improves its quality and ensures good fertility.

Method of disembarkation "dive"

The method of planting "dive" is the planting of cabbage seeds in boxes.

This method involves planting seeds in boxes. It will be necessary to prepare wooden rectangular boxes, the recommended height is 5 cm. They are filled with soil and small grooves are made, 1 cm deep. Seeds are placed at a distance of 2 cm from each other. From above, the seeds are sprinkled with soil and compacted. The box, as a rule, is placed on the windowsill if the air temperature is 15-18 °C above zero.

On the 5th day, it becomes noticeable how the seeds germinate. After that, they are determined in a room with a low temperature, approximately + 10 ° C. This is necessary so that the seedlings do not stretch. Then, when the seedlings have reached the age of 11 days, they are planted in small containers. Their size can be 6-7 cm. Seedling containers are stored at a temperature of 18 ° C for 3 days. After that, the air temperature must be reduced to +14 ° С.

If you are growing a crop at home, take care of sufficient lighting in the house. Cabbage is very demanding on light. Light has a positive effect on its development and protects seedlings from lodging and stretching. It also ensures normal growth. If you see that the seedlings are starting to stretch, this may indicate that you have planted the seeds too close to each other or have not lowered the temperature.

In order to isolate the seedlings from each other, special partitions are used, as an alternative, trays for planting can be used. If you use them, you need to put 2 seeds in each tray. After seedlings are already visible, one plant that is weaker should be removed.

Other growing features

To grow seedlings, you must not forget about watering. It must be moderate.

To grow good seedlings, it must be constantly watered and moistened.

It is important to observe the light, temperature regime and maintain optimal conditions for seedlings. It is recommended to ventilate the room more often.

It should be remembered that dry soil prevents the growth of seedlings. Hydration is one of the most important tasks. We should not forget that excess moisture is dangerous. This can cause the roots to rot, and as a result, the plant will die. The lack of light in the room usually leads to stretching of the plants. High temperature also promotes pulling up.

Seedlings need to be hardened off. Thanks to this, it becomes frost-resistant. It is necessary to observe crop rotation. This will help protect the seedlings from pests and protect against diseases. Cabbage should be grown in one place for no more than 2 years. The site must rest from planting for at least 3 years. After the cabbage crop has been harvested several times, it will be good to plant beets, potatoes, tomatoes or cucumbers in this area.

It is not recommended to grow cabbage after turnips, radishes, lettuce, turnips and radishes have previously been planted on the ground. In order to grow cabbage, you can use different types of soil: loamy, sandy loam, sod-podzolic and neutral. Soils with great content clay is unusable. Cauliflower and broccoli produce good yields even in clay-rich soil. The area where cabbage will be planted should be well lit, spacious and free.

Organic matter, such as compost, manure, can be used as fertilizer. Wood ash is often used. Fertilizers are applied for 1 year. If possible, allocate more space for landing. If you will use narrow bed, for example, less than 1.5 meters, seedlings will need to be distributed in 1 row. However, some species can be planted in 2 rows. In some cases, cabbage is planted in a checkerboard pattern. This ensures good germination.

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How to grow seedlings of cabbage yourself?

The process of growing cabbage seedlings is almost identical for all varieties of cabbage. This article will consider an example of growing white cabbage seedlings.

By maturity and time, it can be divided into:

• Early ripe (sown in the first half of March);
• Mid-season (sown from March 15 to April 15);
• Late-ripening (sown in the first half of April).

How to sow cabbage for seedlings?

For planting cabbage seeds for seedlings, a soil mixture is recommended, which consists of one part of soddy land and two parts of humus. It is recommended to add ash to this mixture, based on 1 kg of the mixture 1 tablespoon of ash. This enriches the soil with additional trace elements and prevents the appearance of some seedling diseases.

Sowing cabbage for seedlings must begin with the preparation of seeds. Before proceeding with the sowing process, the seeds must be treated using the generally accepted methods of seed preparation before sowing.

Seeds are carefully selected before sowing. Cabbage seeds are poured with a 3% solution of table salt for 5 minutes. The floating seeds are merged with water, and the remaining ones are thoroughly washed and dried. For sowing, seeds of large and medium fractions are selected.

Planting cabbage for seedlings is carried out with disinfected seeds. Seeds can be disinfected from pathogens with a solution of potassium permanganate, and then washed with water. But such processing gives a small percentage of probability. Greater effect can be achieved with heat treatment. To do this, the seeds are placed in a gauze bag and lowered into hot water for 20 minutes. The water temperature should be within 48-50 ° C, because. at lower temperatures, the desired effect will be lost, and at higher temperatures, the seeds may lose their germination. There is another way to disinfect seeds: they are aged in a garlic solution (30 g of crushed garlic is dissolved in 0.5 cups of water) for one hour. After that, the seeds must be washed with clean water and dried thoroughly.

Seed packaging may indicate that they have already undergone the necessary processing. In this case, it is necessary to carry out only heat treatment, which is necessary to increase the resistance of seeds to fungal diseases.

Planted seeds in boxes 20 * 30 * 7. In the soil, grooves up to 0.7 cm deep are pressed through at a distance of 3 cm from each other. Seeds are sown into these grooves. After sowing, the soil surface is leveled and covered with a film. The first shoots appear on the fourth day after sowing. Boxes with seedlings are recommended to be placed in the most illuminated places.

The main methods of growing seedlings

There are two generally accepted ways to grow cabbage seedlings:

1. First way. As soon as shoots appear, the seedlings are re-dressed (extra shoots are removed). The distance between the remaining seedlings is 1.5 cm. After a week, the remaining sprouts are transplanted (dive) into cassettes (wooden or plastic) with cells 3 by 3 cm in size. When picking, the plant must be deepened into the ground to cotyledon leaves. After 2-3 weeks, the seedlings from the cassettes are transplanted into cups, the size of which is 6 * 6 cm. The sprouts are removed from the cassettes with a lump of earth, after which they are placed in cups to the cotyledon leaves and sprinkled with soil. The last step will be transplanting seedlings directly into the ground.
2. Second way. Seedlings of cabbage from boxes are transplanted immediately into cups, bypassing the stage of transplanting into cassettes. The size of cups for early-ripening seedlings is 5 * 5 cm, and for late-ripening - 8 * 8 cm. When transplanting, the main root must be cut to 1/3 of the length. This is necessary so that the root system is better branched. Sprouts in cups are deepened to the cotyledon leaves with the help of peaks.

Growing seedlings of early cabbage

For growing seedlings early cabbage some rules must be followed.

Feeding seedlings must be carried out in three stages:

1. After 7 days from the moment of picking into cassettes. Based on 1 liter of water, 2 g dissolves ammonium nitrate, 4 g of superphosphate, 1 g of potash fertilizers.
2. Two weeks after the first feeding. The dosage of the components is doubled.
3. Two days before planting seedlings in permanent soil. At this point, the seedlings already have a developed root system and 6-8 true leaves. For 1 liter of water, 2 grams of ammonium nitrate, 4 grams of superphosphate, 6-8 grams of potassium fertilizers are dissolved.

Watering seedlings is carried out in moderation. Excessive soil moisture should not be allowed.

To obtain healthy cabbage sprouts, it is necessary to provide it with a 14-16 hour light regime. Depending on how much power the lamps have artificial lighting, they are located from seedlings at a distance of 10 to 50 cm (as the plants grow, the distance must be adjusted). The recommended time for turning on artificial lighting lamps is from 8 am to 11 pm.

For the friendly germination of seedlings and the development of plants, it is necessary to observe the following thermal regime:

• Before the appearance of the first shoots - 18-20 ° C;
• Germinated seeds - sunny day 15-17 °C, cloudy day 13-15 °C, night 7-10 °C;

Caring for cabbage seedlings at home is practically no different from standard activities. Before the seedlings are planted in permanent soil, it must be hardened off two weeks before the proposed transplant. At the first stages, the plants are gradually accustomed to cold air, for which the windows are opened. At the second stage, the plants are taken out to the balcony for 2-3 hours during the daytime, but protecting the seedlings from direct sunlight. Gradually, the time increases, and the protection from the sun's rays is removed. When hardening, seedlings are practically not watered. At the last stage of hardening, if the night temperature exceeds 2-3 ° C, the seedlings are left in the fresh air for the night, previously covered with a film stretched over the frame.

Planting seedlings in permanent soil

Planting seedlings in permanent soil is carried out:

• For early ripe varieties - the end of April-beginning of May;
• For mid-season varieties - the end of May - the beginning of June;
• For late-ripening varieties - mid-May.

It should be remembered that cabbage is very susceptible to cold, so it is recommended to cover it at night. After planting, the first days the seedlings must be covered from direct sunlight.

Video: technology for growing cabbage seedlings

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Growing a good crop of white cabbage in the country

How to grow cabbage in your own country house? White cabbage is a cold-resistant plant, demanding on soil and air moisture, intensive plant growth is possible only with sufficient water supply. Friendly shoots gives at a temperature of 18-20 degrees. Temperatures above 25 degrees have a depressing effect on it, and in hot weather (over 30-35 degrees) a head does not form.

Types of cabbage: 1. Wild annual. 2. Headed. 3. Colored. 4. Kohlrabi. 5. Brussels. 6. Savoy.

To get a good harvest of white cabbage on your personal plot or cottage, first of all, you need to seriously approach the choice of a landing site. It must be open and sunny flat area, at least with a slight southern or southeastern slope. The site is prepared in the fall, freeing it from plant debris, and after two weeks they dig it up to a depth of 25-30 cm. Since white cabbage is responsive to the application of mineral or organic fertilizers, we add 3-4 kg of manure or 4-5 kg ​​of compost sq.m. On soils rich in organic matter, spring application of mineral fertilizers is sufficient (20-30 g of superphosphate, 20-35 g of potassium chloride and 15-30 g of ammonium nitrate per sq.m). In the spring, before planting, the soil is dug up or loosened to a depth of 15-20 cm.

It will be correct to grow white cabbage in one place for no more than 2-3 years in a row. You can not use the same area for planting cabbage earlier than 4-5 years later. The best predecessors for planting cabbage are onions, cucumbers, potatoes, root crops, legumes and cereals. White cabbage is grown both in seedlings and by sowing seeds in the ground.

Growing seedlings of cabbage

Seeds of white cabbage of early varieties are sown from March 5 to 10, seeds of late varieties - from March 15 to 30, seeds of mid-season - April 15-20. The soil mixture for seedlings is prepared by mixing equal amounts of soddy soil, peat and sand. It is better to take sod land from the places of growth of perennial plants. Add 1 tbsp to a bucket of soil mixture. a spoonful of superphosphate, 2 tbsp. spoons of wood ash and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of chalk or lime - fluff. The seedling boxes are filled with the finished soil mixture, carefully leveled and watered with a solution of potassium permanganate. Grooves are made in the soil for seeds 1 cm deep at a distance of 3 cm from one another. Seeds are sown in these grooves 1 cm apart and covered with the same soil mixture. Pour through a strainer with a small amount of warm water.

Boxes with seedlings are placed on the windowsill, every other day the soil is sprinkled with water. At a temperature of 18-20 degrees shoots appear on the 5-7th day. After the emergence of seedlings, it will be correct to move the box with seedlings to a room whose temperature does not exceed 7-8 degrees. If this is not done, the seedlings will quickly stretch and then die.

The scheme of picking seedlings of cabbage.

After about 10 days, the seedlings are picked. Before picking, the plants are watered with a solution of potassium permanganate. Seedlings dive into pots or cups 6x6 cm in size, filled with the same soil mixture. Each seedling, when picking, deepens into the soil to the cotyledon leaves. Pots with pickled seedlings are kept at a temperature of 17-18 degrees. When the seedlings take root, after 4-5 days the temperature is reduced during the day to 12-14 degrees, at night - up to 10-12 degrees. Water the seedlings as the soil dries out, the water temperature for irrigation is 18-20 degrees. The room is regularly ventilated.

During the first two weeks, the seedlings grow extremely slowly, gradually their growth will become more intense. Before landing on permanent place The plant should have 5-6 true leaves. 15-20 days before planting seedlings in open ground, they begin to harden with low temperatures and the action of light, taking seedlings outside during the day or airing the room. the first foliar feeding carried out when the plants have two true leaves. To do this, half a tablet of a microelement is diluted in 1 liter of water. The second top dressing is carried out at the beginning of hardening of seedlings (1 tbsp of potassium sulfate and urea are diluted in a bucket of water). Top dressing is carried out by watering the leaves with a small watering can.

Planting seedlings in the ground

The scheme of the correct planting depth of cabbage: a-deep, b-normal, c-shallow.

Grown seedlings of early varieties of white cabbage are planted from April 25 to May 5, late - from May 10 to May 20, mid-season - from May 20 to 31, the last planting date is June 1. The row spacing for early-ripening varieties is 40-50 cm, the distance between plants in a row is 25 cm, for medium and late-ripening varieties, respectively, 60 cm and 35 cm. It is recommended to plant seedlings on cloudy days or in the late afternoon. Two hours before planting, it is well watered. During planting, 0.5 - 1 liter of water is poured into the hole, the seedlings are buried to the level of the first true leaves and pressed with soil. The first 2 - 3 days the planted seedlings are shaded. 4-5 days after planting, new plants are planted in place of dead plants.

Happy owners of dachas and garden plots located in the southern regions of the country practice planting seeds immediately in a permanent place in open ground and at the same time manage to get a good harvest of white cabbage in their dacha.

Sowing seeds in open ground

For sowing seeds of white cabbage in the ground, we select the largest seeds (with a diameter of at least 1.5 - 2 mm). The selected seeds are subjected heat treatment to disinfect them from pathogens of fungal diseases. To do this, we hold the seeds for 20 minutes in hot water at a temperature of 50 degrees, then quickly cool them by placing them in cold water for 2-3 minutes. Scatter the treated seeds in a thin layer to a loose state. The seeds are ready for sowing.

Scheme of small shelters for cabbage.

Before planting seeds, the soil is well cultivated, breaking up lumps and loosening it to a depth of 15–20 cm. Seeds are sown in prepared grooves in a nested manner. The distance between rows and nests in a row is similar to the distance when planting seedlings. 3-5 seeds are sown in each nest, sprinkled with a mixture of peat and humus. When the second or third true leaves are formed on the plants, the crops are thinned out, leaving two in the nests, and then one of the most viable plants. Next, take care of the sowing, as well as in the case of growing seedlings.

In areas with mild winters, if there is a greenhouse in the country, apply winter way growing white cabbage. In this case, planting seeds to obtain seedlings is carried out in September, and seedlings in the ground - in November. The crop is harvested in mid-May, while cabbage can be eaten even before the head is formed, which is especially valuable in spring.

White cabbage care

Care includes watering, weeding and row spacing, top dressing, pest and disease control. The first two weeks, the plants are carefully watered every 2-3 days at the rate of 8-10 liters per sq.m, then watering is carried out once a week (12-15 liters per sq.m). It will be correct to transfer the watering time to the morning or evening. Water temperature for irrigation is not lower than 18-20 degrees. The most intensive watering should be carried out during the formation of heads. It is necessary to ensure that cabbage leaves do not wither from a lack of moisture in the soil, which leads to the death of thin roots in the plant.

The first inter-row treatment is carried out to a depth of 5 cm approximately 10 days after planting, later loosened as needed after watering or rains, preferably every week. The first hilling is carried out approximately 20 days after planting, again - after 10 days. Hilling should be carried out with moist soil, which will activate the formation of additional roots and increase resistance to lodging.

For the entire growing season spend 3 - 4 top dressing. The first is carried out to enhance the growth of leaves, for which a complete organic fertilizer is used. To do this, 0.5 liters of mushy mullein are diluted in a bucket of water. Spend 0.5 liters for each plant. After 10 days, a second top dressing is given, where 0.5 liters of mullein or chicken manure and 0.5 microelement tablets are diluted in a bucket of water. Consumption of 1 liter for each plant. The third dressing is carried out in June, only for late varieties, in order to enhance the growth of the head. The solution is prepared by diluting 0.5 liters of mullein or chicken manure with the addition of st. tablespoons of superphosphate and one microelement tablet. Consumption - 6 - 8 liters per sq.m. If necessary, in order to get a more significant harvest, such top dressing can be repeated in August.

For prevention against slugs, aphids and snails, plants and the soil around them are powdered. wood ash, spending a glass per sq.m.

A worthy reward for every owner of a dacha is the own hands good harvest of vegetables. Now we will describe the process of harvesting the crop we have grown.

Harvest

Harvest of early-ripening cabbage varieties is harvested in July-August, selectively, as heads of commercial maturity are formed; mid-season - from the end of September, late-ripening - from mid-October. Sauerkraut can also be harvested at the end of October (it can withstand frosts down to -10 degrees). Heads are cut sharp knife. The cabbage intended for long-term storage, be sure to leave a long stalk with 2-3 loose leaves. The harvested crop is stored at a temperature of 0 - 5 degrees and an air humidity of 80-85%.

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What temperature can tomato seedlings withstand in a greenhouse, in open ground, on a balcony, under covering material, in a greenhouse?

Tomatoes are a very popular crop for growing among owners of summer cottages. Hardworking gardeners get large crops of the most useful vegetable in almost any climatic zone. The first question for beginner tomato growers is the optimal and allowable temperatures. The question of what temperature tomato seedlings can withstand sounds in different variations, because you need to know the temperature conditions for germinating seeds, planting seedlings, ripening fruits in different conditions. Answers are needed in order to choose the most convenient way for you to get a good harvest.

Homeland and history of the resettlement of tomatoes

At home, in the tropics South America, and wild tomato species are now growing.

Knowing this, one can unequivocally answer one of the questions, namely, what sub-zero temperature can withstand tomato seedlings. None. Frost in the air and especially on the soil, the plant does not withstand and dies. It came to Europe with light hand Columbus. This is the case when it is known exact date one thousand four hundred and ninety-three. It began to be cultivated for culinary purposes only by the middle of the sixteenth century in warm European countries. And already with the light hand of the Italians, “golden apples”, as the fruits of the plant were called here, became “pomo doro” - a literal translation. Hence the Russian - "tomato". During the reign of Catherine II, scientists under the guidance of breeder E. Grachev and the founder of Russian agronomy A. Bolotov persistently began to look for the answer to the question of what temperature drop tomato seedlings can withstand. With their light hand, a juicy vegetable appeared on the tables of people across the country.

Botanical description

Tomatoes are nightshade herbaceous plant. At home, it can be perennial. In countries with a more severe climate - annual. The root system is a rod with many lateral branches, it is covered with many hairs. In open warm ground, in the southern regions, the roots reach a meter length. In greenhouses, up to thirty centimeters develop. Roots are easily formed on any part of the stem. The stems themselves are erect or requiring garters, and by the nature of growth: constantly branching - indeterminate and, conversely, determinant. The leaves are of the usual form, but their color changes under the influence of external conditions and the state of the plant. Flowers of both sexes are collected in inflorescences "fruit brush". The fruits are fleshy and juicy berries of various sizes and shapes. The color of ripe fruits is from golden to brown and purple, depending on the variety.

Tomatoes are self-pollinating plants. It begins to bloom approximately on the fiftieth day after germination from seeds, and the fruits ripen another sixty days later. During this period, any sudden external changes, especially temperature fluctuations, can be detrimental to the crop. And here it would be necessary to know which low temperature withstand tomato seedlings, and prevent the plant from getting into extreme temperatures - below five degrees. It will die in the heat above forty-three degrees.

Choice of tomato varieties

On the issue of variety selection early stages you can use the recommendations of experienced gardeners, but your personal experience is more valuable. In any case, you need to buy seeds of several types of tomatoes. Carry out the work from germinating them into seedlings until harvesting. Autumn work will show which variety of tomatoes met the expectations specifically in your garden. When choosing tomato seeds for an open area without greenhouses, the first obligatory question should be the following: what temperature can a tomato seedling planted in open ground withstand? Here it is necessary to give preference to low-growing hybrid varieties with a well-developed, temperature-resistant root system. And in order not to be haunted by the thought of what minimum temperature the seedlings of tomatoes can withstand, take into service next condition. Varieties are better to choose early, early or medium early. Vegetation in these groups takes up to seventy, up to ninety and up to one hundred days, respectively. An example of determinant varieties: Oak, very tasty and high-yielding White filling, early and with fruits of the same size Agate, resistant to temperature disturbances and with a special tomato flavor Sanka, pink sweet Demidov, ideal for conservation Lady fingers. The question of what temperature the tomato seedlings can withstand in a greenhouse, if it is built on your site, will be no less important when choosing a variety for a greenhouse. Here you can give preference to indeterminate hybrids. The main stem of different types of tomato tree can grow for more than a year. The height of the Sprut 1 variety, for example, is almost four meters, and the crown covers an area of ​​more than fifty square meters. Harvest per year up to one and a half tons. This is the best variety for greenhouses covered not just with a film, but with modern transparent plastic materials for business farmers.

For industrial scales, the Major variety is also suitable. Even in the cold season, gardeners who have chosen this variety will not worry about what night temperatures the tomato seedlings can withstand. It is highly resistant to sudden temperature changes and major tomato diseases. In addition, long-term transportation does not harm their presentation. In terms of taste, many consider pink Mikado to be the best greenhouse and fast-ripening variety. The increased sugar content makes the fruit pulp sweet and juicy. If you are a big fan of your own grown tomatoes, and the place for growing is limited to an apartment in a city high-rise building, then it's time to find out what temperature the tomato seedlings can withstand on the balcony. In this situation, choose better varieties with small fruits and undersized bushes such as Cherry, Cascade Red, Red Pearl. All of them are lovers of the morning or evening sun and will withstand a night drop in temperature to twelve degrees.

Lighting and watering requirements

good lighting for light-loving plants is a necessary condition. For tomato seedlings, the lack of light is especially dangerous. Seedlings develop poorly, their stems stretch and weaken. Adult tomatoes with a lack of light almost do not bloom, the ovaries fall off. The plant turns into green tops. Tomatoes of southern varieties and those grown in greenhouses and greenhouses are especially acutely affected by the lack of sun. Lack of light is the reason for the poor taste of tomatoes. Solanaceae grown without sun can be poisonous. In greenhouses, without natural light, plants are more likely to get sick than those grown outdoors. In this case, it must be borne in mind that there are different irrigation regimes for the soil and the greenhouse.

To rid greenhouse plants of leaf mold, you need to reduce watering. In open areas, the plant should be regularly watered, especially during the period when the fruits are formed and ripen. The soil under the roots should not dry out and turn into a crust. Watering it is usually alternated with loosening. It is necessary to pour water under the root, without falling on the leaves, the plants do not tolerate this well. Before use, it is better to defend the water for a day. It should not be cold - this is the question of what temperature tomato seedlings can withstand in open ground. Required humidity for soil -70%, for air - 60%. Increased moisture and lack of heat reduce yields.

Requirements for soil and neighbors

The requirements for soil are not as strict as those for light and heat. It's great if you can boast of highly fertile black soil in the garden or in the greenhouse. Light loamy and sandy loamy soil of medium acidity is well suited. Lime must be added to very acidic soil. Tomatoes are not recommended to be planted for more than two years in a row in the same place. It is bad for the tomato crop if peppers, eggplants or other vegetables grew in the area before them, taking a lot of nutrients from the soil. Onions, potatoes, cabbage, zucchini, cucumbers, pumpkins and carrots are considered good predecessors. Nightshade vegetables, potatoes and peppers are not suitable as neighbors in the beds, their root secretions inhibit the growth of tomatoes. In addition, they have the same diseases and pests, which increases the risk of damage. Next to the tomatoes, it is good to plant onions, asparagus, parsley, calendula.

These neighbors have a beneficial effect and protect against the listed misfortunes.

Seed preparation for seedlings

Growing tomato seedlings begin with the preparation of seeds. The first step is to test them. High-quality seeds are full-weight, they sink in a five percent saline solution. All that will come up are empty or rotten seeds. The selected samples are well washed with running cold water and immersed for fifteen minutes in a one percent solution of potassium permanganate. After disinfection, they are washed again with cold water and soaked in a solution of special microelements for the whole night. Better buy ready composition to prepare a solution. Soaked seeds for spitting are laid out on a damp cloth. During this period, possibly up to a week, the fabric should always be damp. Excess moisture, like drying out, negatively affects germination.

Growing seedlings

It is more profitable to prepare the soil for the germination of hatched seeds yourself. It should be loose and light, well-permeable to air and moisture. You can mix equally sorted soddy soil, sand, humus and peat. It is important that plants of the nightshade family have not previously grown on the soil used. Instead of sand, you can mix sawdust with ash, that is, they take components that can be obtained. For watering the substrate, a mineral solution is prepared from about twenty grams of superphosphate and ten grams of urea per bucket of water. For planting seeds, long, preferably wooden boxes are used, where they are laid out with tweezers a couple of centimeters apart, into an even long groove in the prepared ground one and a half centimeters deep. Sprinkle with earth on top and cover with a film. The boxes are placed in a warm place.

Here the question is relevant about what temperature the tomato seedlings can withstand under the covering material. The boundary temperature for seed germination is ten degrees Celsius; to speed up the process, you need at least sixteen degrees. Further, until a few leaves appear, during the day the temperature should be from twenty to twenty-four degrees, on cloudy days up to sixteen degrees is allowed. At night - from fifteen to seventeen degrees with a plus sign, otherwise growth stops. When the seeds germinate, they are transferred to a lighted place. If there is not enough natural, artificial lighting is used. It is important to monitor the temperature of the air and soil, if everything is fine, the film is removed during the day. The room where the seedlings are being prepared must be ventilated, but there should not be a draft. When the first two leaves appear on the sprouts, they are seated, more familiar to gardeners - dive, into small paper or plastic cups with drainage holes at the bottom. Seedlings are selected healthy, with strong roots.

To stimulate the growth of lateral roots, the tap root is pruned. They dive into prepared soil, water and keep warm up to twenty degrees. When there are more than four leaves, ten days before planting in permanent soil, the day and night temperatures are reduced by a couple of degrees. You can put the pots outside, and in greenhouses and greenhouses, remove the upper windows to harden the plants, provided that there are no frosts at night. That is, you always need to remember what minimum temperature the seedlings of tomatoes can withstand, and make sure that it is not below twelve degrees. After hardening, healthy seedlings, with a clean, even stem thickened at the base, are to be planted. When growing, in addition to light and heat, seedlings require top dressing. The first must be done ten days after transplanting into pots. It is good to prepare organic top dressing. To do this, slurry is dissolved in water in a ratio of one to four or chicken manure in a ratio of one to fifteen. Twenty grams of superphosphate and a little wood ash are also added here. It is necessary to maintain the same intervals between top dressings of about two weeks.

Sowing time

From when it is planned to transfer tomato seedlings to the ground, to a permanent place in a greenhouse or balcony, choose the time for planting seeds. And it depends on the climate of the area and the variety chosen. Seedlings of ordinary low-growing varieties can be grown in fifty to seventy days, and for tomato giants, the time increases to ninety days. On open ground in mid-latitudes, for example, seedlings are taken out at the very beginning of summer. For closed ground, the dates may be shifted, adjusted for the question of what temperature the tomato seedlings can withstand in a greenhouse. It is necessary to take into account what type it is, what kind of coating - film or polycarbonate. For balcony seedlings, you need to consider where the windows of the balcony go, whether it is open or glazed, what kind of insulation you used.

If the balcony is located on the southeast side, it is insulated and there are plastic windows, then the planting dates are similar to the greenhouse terms, and the answer to the question of what temperature the tomato seedlings in the greenhouse can withstand is relevant for you.

Requirements for greenhouse conditions

We will immediately specify the time of disembarkation, which means the time when the greenhouse should be ready. If you call a greenhouse covered with a film without heating, then seedlings can be transferred to it only in mid-May, completely eliminating possible night frosts in your area. If the climate allows, and the unheated greenhouse is covered with a film in several layers, and you use additional paper covers and watering with warm water, then you can plant seedlings in the last days of April. In film greenhouses, where there is heating, seedlings are planted from the tenth to the fifteenth of April. Absolutely rhetorical question what temperature can tomato seedlings withstand in a polycarbonate greenhouse, because they are usually built for year-round growing vegetables.

Now about the size of the land under the greenhouse. Seedlings of undersized varieties are planted at a distance of thirty centimeters from each other. For tall ones, at least forty centimeters of the plot are needed. The distance between rows, according to the planting technology, should be from fifty to sixty centimeters. It is better to plant bushes in a checkerboard pattern - two rows, row spacing, etc. On a plot of about one and a half to two square meters you can place from eight to twelve tomato bushes. For a business greenhouse made of polycarbonate, five to six acres of land are needed. In any greenhouse you will need additional lighting - a real lamp or a mirror surface reflecting the sun's rays. Craftsmen even use ordinary household foil on plywood. There should be a source of water in the greenhouse or on the site, it is more profitable - a well or a well. Remembering what temperature tomato seedlings can withstand, and that it is impossible to water it with cold water, you need to stock up on containers where the water settles and warms up in the sun or with a special device. And if growing tomatoes in a greenhouse is not just another experiment in a series of failed ones for you, then it is better to take care of an additional heat source other than the sun.

Before each new planting, the owners of greenhouses and greenhouses will definitely have to process all parts, walls and coatings of the structure with bleach, spray it with the soil. The upper, five-centimeter layer of soil in greenhouses is changed to a new substrate, dug up and watered with a solution of potassium permanganate after each harvest. All these measures will help prevent frequent greenhouse diseases vegetables. In general, greenhouse steam beds are arranged like a trench, where hot manure is first laid, about thirty to thirty-five centimeters, and then prepared, as for seedlings, a nutrient mixture up to fifteen centimeters up. Still do not forget about the mandatory and regular ventilation of greenhouses. Greenhouse designs should contain vents not only on the sides, but also at the top.

Tomatoes from the garden

If your goal is not a tomato business project, but a ripe, sweet, juicy tomato for dinner from your own garden near the house, then finally decide on the question of what temperature the tomato seedlings can withstand in the open field, and start. Choose a plot in the garden for beds, where there is a lot of light, which means it will be warm. By the way, cucumbers grew well here last year. In the fall, you, as expected, dug up the site and applied fertilizer. After winter and before planting again, everything was well loosened and nitrogenous fertilizers were added. At the end of May, a constant temperature was established. During the day from twenty-two to twenty-five degrees. It's warm at night, never below fifteen plus. You can plant. Water from the well in a large barrel in the garden warms up during the day in the sun above twenty degrees. There is something to water. And there is no “struggle” for the harvest, just if you work with desire, kindness and love for nature, everything will work out for sure.

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When and how to plant cabbage for seedlings (video instruction)?

Optimal timing for each variety

To get high yields and quality vegetables, the stems should not be overgrown. By the time they need to be planted in open ground, sprouts can be about 15-20 cm high. By the number of leaves, early-ripening varieties have 6-7 pieces, and late ones have 4-5.

Usually, at home, cabbage seeds are planted in March. However, for each region, due to different climates, landing conditions may differ. As well as the time of planting shoots in the garden.

The best age for planting sprouts in the garden is 55-60 days. Based on this, you can determine the optimal period when to sow cabbage for seedlings, on your own. For example, if you plan to plant seedlings in open ground in the last days of May, it is correct to sow crop seeds at home from March 25 to March 30. Also in March, it is worth planting Chinese cabbage for seedlings. It is preferable to sow the seeds of the crop in the second half of March. Its ripening period is 45-55 days.

Preparing for sowing seeds for seedlings

Not only the timing of planting vegetable crops depends on the yield. In order for the seedlings to be strong, to be able to withstand sudden frosts, you need to know how to properly grow seedlings. In particular, the rules for sowing and caring for seedlings should be observed.

Planting work begins with the acquisition of seeds and the preparation of containers, soil. planting material in the form of cabbage seedlings can be purchased at every flower shop. Basically the same as soil. For growing seedlings, you can prepare wooden boxes with a depth of 10-15 cm. They are filled with either a special substrate purchased on the market or soil mixture. You can cook it yourself at home. To do this, you need to take pre-disinfected:

• 2 parts of sod land;
• 1 hour non-acidic peat;
• 1 hour humus.

It is preferable to choose only large seeds. Before sowing, it is better to process them correctly. If information about this is not contained on the package. Unlike the standard seedbed preparation procedure, cabbage seedlings should be immersed in hot water. It is enough to hold them in this liquid for 15-20 minutes. After that, put for 2 minutes - in a container with cold water. Now they can be sown in the ground.

Sowing and growing seedlings

Having prepared everything you need, you can start landing. Cabbage seedlings should be placed on the surface of the soil with which the boxes are filled. Upon completion of the procedure, they should be sprinkled with a small (up to 1 cm) layer of soil, then watered. Then place the boxes closer to the light. It is desirable that the temperature regime in that place be in the range from +6 to +12 degrees.

Shoots of cabbage usually appear on the 4-6th day. For the entire time of germination, the soil should be properly watered - as it dries. When the first leaf appears on the sprouts, the seedlings should dive. Unlike white cabbage, Beijing cabbage can be grown without diving.

Those who have heated greenhouses can transplant seedlings in them. At home, picking is carried out in deeper individual containers. It is best to grow cabbage sprouts in peat-humus cups. Thus, it is possible to save root system culture when it's time to plant it outdoors.

When used for picking deep wooden boxes, correctly maintain a distance of 7 to 10 cm between the stems of cabbage. To fill containers, it is advisable to use a soil mixture prepared from:

• 7 parts of peat;
• 1 hour sod land;
• 1 hour mullein.

This mixture, if properly proportioned, stimulates the growth of cabbage heads. And if it is used to fill peat cups, you can harvest ripe vegetables 1.5-2 weeks earlier. When compared with traditional planting methods. Cabbage seedlings are desirable to fertilize. The procedure can be performed 7 days after picking the plants. Use for these purposes should be bird droppings or manure. It is also worth airing the premises with crop seedlings. However, drafts are best avoided.

Regarding the temperature at which this crop will be grown, it is recommended to withstand:

• during the day from +14 to +18 degrees;
• at night - from +7 to +10.

Cabbage seedlings can be planted in the garden from the second half of May. By that time, each stem should have 4-5 leaves. No more. Beijing cabbage can be planted when it has no more than 3 leaves. Given the variety and climatic conditions of the growing region, you can choose the optimal time yourself.

How and where to transplant seedlings

It is better to plant seedlings of such a vegetable crop as cabbage at a distance of 40-50 cm. It is better to make the depth of the hole based on the size of the peat cups. If you grew sprouts in boxes, then you can make a hole in accordance with the height of the walls of the container. The hole is watered just before planting. It is worth pouring about 1 liter of water into each, then immediately place a sprout in it. It is necessary to plant the stem so that the soil level is on a par with the first leaf on the stem of the plant.

If you choose the right place for the further cultivation of white cabbage, the yield can increase significantly. And it will become easier to take care of the culture. So, for example, it is best to plant cabbage seedlings after legumes and cereals. Cabbage heads also grow well if cucumbers and root crops were its predecessors on the site. Beijing cabbage can be grown after potatoes and carrots.

As you can see, growing will not be difficult if you know when to sow cabbage for seedlings. And also, if you get acquainted with the characteristics of the culture, in order to properly cultivate seedlings and care.

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SEEDLING

How to plant cabbage for rassa

Before planting the main crops in the greenhouse, cabbage seedlings can be grown in it different varieties. Meaning early, middle and middle early varieties white, cauliflower and other types of cabbage.

Seeds of white cabbage begin to germinate at +3°C. At a soil temperature of +20°C, the process accelerates. On average, seedlings begin to appear after 3-4 days from sowing. In a greenhouse, it is better to grow seedlings that have been picked and accustomed, grown before at home.

Usually seedlings of white cabbage have no more than 5 true leaves. From the moment of emergence, she should be about 2 months old. In general, if seedlings are planted at the end of May, sowing is done around March 25th.

At the same time, only strong, high-quality seedlings can survive frosts and give a good harvest. In order for it to turn out like this, you need to take care of the correct pre-sowing treatment of seeds. First of all, they need to be selected manually by size ( better diameter 2 mm).

Before planting cabbage on seedlings, the seeds should be placed in water for 20 minutes at a temperature of up to 50 ° C. Then the grains are cooled for 3 minutes in cold water and dried until dry.

To avoid the appearance of bacteriosis and clubroot, the seeds can be heated for another 20 minutes at 50 ° C. After that, the grains are placed in a solution for 1.5-2 hours: 0.5 g / l boric acid and molybdate. To increase the germination of seeds, they are processed in a 0.5% urea solution.

Some summer residents advise sowing cabbage seeds as early as mid-January. But, in general, the timing of sowing is determined by the fact that 8-12 days pass from sowing seeds to seedlings, and seedlings turn into full-fledged seedlings for another 45-50 days. The timing for seedlings of cauliflower is also determined.

Seedlings in seed boxes should grow until the first leaf appears, then they are split. When picking, weak and late-grown sprouts are rejected, as well as those that are struck by the “black leg” and which do not have the apical bud of the seedling.

During picking, seedlings (especially elongated ones) are buried almost to the cotyledons, so that the seedlings are strengthened by the formation of additional roots.

If the cultivation of cabbage seedlings is carried out in a greenhouse under a film, then you need to take care of additional lighting. Cabbage seedlings do not tolerate blackout from the moment they emerge. It is better to put seedlings in boxes in the greenhouse. A plastic film is laid under the boxes on the ground.

The bottom of the boxes is also covered with a film with holes through which it flows excess moisture from watering and fertilizing solutions. If seedlings are grown in boxes in this way, then it is easier to move them around the greenhouse and reject poor-quality sprouts.

Seedlings are watered abundantly, but not very often. Water for irrigation should be slightly warmer than the soil where the seeds grow. Before planting seedlings in open ground, it is necessary to equalize the temperature in the greenhouse with the air temperature outside it for several days.

Growing onion seedlings

Everyone knows that onions can be obtained direct sowing seeds - nigella in open ground. The disadvantage of this method is that it is difficult to evenly distribute very small seeds after 5-8 cm, as a result of which a large number of now expensive seeds. In addition, in the southern and southeastern regions of Ukraine, in some years with a dry spring, it is difficult to get strong seedlings. After the seedlings get stronger, it is imperative to carry out laborious work to break through the plants and form the density.

The advantage of the seedling method is that it reduces the consumption of seeds several times. You can immediately form the desired planting density when planting seedlings. But there are certain problems with the preparation of seedlings, especially if there are no greenhouses or greenhouses.

The best for growing onions in seedlings are peninsular, low-bud varieties and hybrids. Seedlings are grown in heated greenhouses, warm greenhouses or in a heated room. Sow onion seeds in boxes on March 15-25.

The best soil for growing onion seedlings is soddy soil half mixed with humus, or sphagnum peat milling workpiece, neutralized and seasoned with a garden fertilizer mixture (50 g per bucket of peat). The soil is poured into the seedling box with a layer of 8-10 cm. The seeds are sown in grooves, the distance between which is 5 cm, and between the seeds - 0.5-1 cm. Seeds are planted to a depth of 0.5-1 cm, after which the sowing is compacted from above, and then watered.

Before the emergence of shoots, the temperature is maintained at 20-25°, and after they appear, the temperature is reduced for several days to 10-12°. In the future, the temperature regime is maintained during the day within 15-18 °, at night - 6-10 °. As soon as the seedlings get stronger, they are thinned out in thickened places, leaving the plants in rows at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other.

Onion seedlings are fed twice with dissolved mineral fertilizers at the rate of 10 g of urea, 20 g of super-phosphate, 5 g of potassium chloride or 20-30 g of garden fertilizer mixture per 10 liters of water (now there are similar new types of fertilizers).

7-10 days before planting seedlings in open ground, it is hardened with the help of enhanced ventilation, the temperature in the room where it is grown is reduced, watering is reduced and taken out to an open place.

By the time of planting, the seedlings should be with well-developed leaves, with a stem diameter of 0.5-0.8 cm.

Given this, now many gardeners prefer to grow marketable onions during the growing season from seeds, but with preliminary preparation seedlings.

Transplanting.

Onion plants can withstand temperatures down to slight minuses, and therefore, after preliminary hardening, it can be planted as early as possible when the soil is ripe. To make it convenient to plant seedlings, you should not do wide beds. The most convenient is the two-row tape method according to the 20 + 50 cm scheme (two rows every 50 cm). In rows, plants are placed at a distance of 4-6 cm from each other. This is about 10 sq. m need 500-600 pcs. seedlings.

The plants are planted in freshly cut furrows (slits) with water added. If possible, it is also possible to carry out pre-planting watering at a rate of 10-15 cubic meters per hundred square meters 2-4 days before planting. You can also water immediately after planting at the rate of 8-10 liters per 40 pcs. The soil near the plants is compacted to the roots. After 2-4 days, the soil is loosened, new plants are planted in places where plants fall out.

Particular attention is paid to regular watering of planted seedlings in the first 10-15 days. Watered after 2-3 days, until the plants take root.

In the future, onion seedlings are cared for in the same way as those grown from seeds or sets. In the first 10-15 days, onion seedlings need to be fed with mullein (1: 5), slurry or nitrogen fertilizers(two matchboxes per bucket of water). If there is not enough water for irrigation, the aisles can be mulched with grass or other materials.

Full-fledged marketable bulbs from seeds in one year can be obtained only with regular watering after 7-8 days, giving per 10 square meters. m for 400-500 liters of water. In case of drought, water every 5-6 days. Stop watering 20-25 days before harvesting (approximately August 15-20)

PROTECTION FROM DISEASE

Onions can affect such diseases: peronosporosis, penicillosis or blue-green mold, bacterial rot internal scales, alternariosis, fusarium rot, gray rot, white rot, black mold. One of the most harmful diseases is peronosporosis. For its prevention and treatment, it is recommended to use the following drugs: Quadris (6 ml per 5 l of water), Ridomil Gold MC (25 g per 5 l of water), Figal (25 ml per 5 l of water).

The most dangerous pests of onions: onion fly, onion hoverfly, onion secretive trunk, onion moth, tobacco (onion) tripe, root (onion) mite, onion stem nematode, onion psyllid.

Did you know that the fruit of a ripe sweet pepper is rich in such useful vitamins as A and C. The presence of these vitamins in pepper is much greater than in the fruits of carrots, lemons and many others.

How to grow good seedlings of peppers

Many gardeners grow pepper seedlings at home on windowsills. Having grown such seedlings in preferential conditions, then they suffer with it when they are transplanted into open ground. Seedlings do not take root well, weak growth is observed, diseases are present, in general torment.

And those who plant pepper seeds for seedlings in a greenhouse are then in a better position. Seedlings easily tolerate transplanting in open ground, it is less susceptible to diseases.

Preparing pepper seeds for sowing

To use the method of growing seedlings in a greenhouse or hotbed, certain work must be done with the seed fund.

Before planting, the seeds must be treated with a strong solution of potassium permanganate (1 teaspoon per half liter of water) for 30 minutes, then rinse well with boiled water. And then we use an ordinary thermos.

In pre-prepared bags, distribute the disinfected seeds by variety. We put the bags in a thermos and fill it with a nutrient solution (one small spoonful of wood ash dissolved in one liter of warm boiled water).

The lid of the thermos should be screwed tightly and left for a day, while shaking the thermos from time to time so that ash does not form. Then remove the bags from the thermos, sprinkle lightly with clean boiled water, put on plates and put in a warm place for a couple of days.

Continue to lightly spray the bags with water regularly. Moisture in the seeds must be constantly present, up to the moment of hatching. You will see, after such treatment, the seeds germinate quickly and amicably.

Soil preparation for sowing

To prepare the soil in a greenhouse for sowing seeds, take equal parts of sand and earth, add peat to two parts. For every 10 kilograms of the mixture, add two tablespoons of wood ash, one tablespoon of nitrophoska and superphosphate.

We distribute the mixture over the garden and then dig everything well. We level, carry out disinfection (water hot water), tightly close the greenhouse for steaming for 20 minutes. Everything, the bed is ready, you can plant the seeds.

Pepper seedling care

The first feeding of pepper seedlings is best done after the appearance of the first true leaves. For the first feeding, a solution of calcium nitrate is well suited (one spoon per bucket of water). You can use fermented mullein (1 kilogram per bucket of water).

The second top dressing should be carried out 10 days after the first (one spoon or matchbox of urea per bucket of warm water).

In the production of dressings, that's what matters. Water the planted soil well before each top dressing. warm water, repeat the procedure when top dressing is finished to wash off fertilizer residues from plants.

For good growth you need to make sure that in the greenhouse the earth has a small amount of moisture. Here you need to be especially careful if the earth is too wet, the roots of the seedlings may simply die and your work will be done in vain.

Fertilizing and watering, as practice shows, is best done in the morning, using warm water. The next day after feeding, be sure to loosen the soil around the plants.

During the period of growing seedlings, when it is gaining strength, add ash in the greenhouse (one spoon for about three plants), while carefully making sure that the ash does not fall on the plants.

Start hardening gradually. First, open the greenhouse for twenty minutes, increasing the hardening time every day. About one week before transplanting into the ground, the frames or film can be completely removed from the greenhouse.

Immediately before transplanting, spill the bed with seedlings with settled water (never use tap water). Then along with earthy clod transplant carefully into prepared beds.

The pepper seedlings grown by you fall into the open ground hardened, it is less at risk of disease. The yield is much higher than from seedlings that were grown in pampered conditions.

Seedling: growing eggplant

How to prepare the soil for eggplant seedlings

A favorite place for growing eggplant is light, fertilized soil that warms up well. The best predecessors are legumes, winter wheat, cabbage, cucumber, onion.

In the fall, they prepare the place for the future planting - the soil is slightly loosened, provoking the growth of weeds, after 2 weeks, deep plowing is carried out, and in early spring they are harrowed and left until the seedlings are planted.

Optimal age eggplant seedlings for disembarkation is 55-60 days. Therefore, depending on the region, the term for sowing seeds is calculated using the countdown method, minus 2 months before the onset of stable warm weather.

Eggplant can easily get sick from any infection, so the land for seedlings from the garden is the least suitable. It is better to use a composition of peat and sawdust (3: 1). River sand can be used instead of sawdust.

seedling care

Eggplant does not restore damaged roots well and does not tolerate picking, therefore it is advisable to immediately sow the seeds in peat cups or cubes with a prepared and fertilized soil mixture.

The seed planting depth is less than 1 cm. For germination, the boxes should be placed in a warm place. As a rule, shoots appear on the 8-10th day. Sprouts must be provided with good lighting, and it is recommended to reduce the air temperature to + 15-18 ° C.

With a weak development of plants, they need top dressing. For this use mineral fertilizer from the store, or compiled according to your own recipe, and no more than 30 g of dry fertilizer is taken per bucket of water.

A good top dressing is "azofoska". It is best to do top dressing in the morning, and immediately after top dressing, you need to spray the seedlings so that they do not get burned. It is best to spray with warm, sun-warmed water.

When growing eggplant seedlings, it should be remembered that systematic watering protects the stem from premature lignification, but too frequent watering further reduces the yield.

Excessively high temperatures combined with high humidity make young plants very tender and fragile, which negatively affects the transplant.

When a real leaf appears, the seedlings must be removed in the shade for a couple of days to strengthen the root system. It is because of the weak root system that the leaf develops very slowly at first.

If the seedlings were still sown in a box, then the plants must be dived into separate pots, for which the lower part of PET bottles of 1.5-2.5 liters is perfect. To do this, moisten the ground well, holding the seedling by the leaf, carefully dig and remove the plant from the ground, keeping the ground on the roots.

Damaged seedlings are removed during the dive. After the picking, eggplant seedlings for the first time it is watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After that, the containers must be arranged in such a way that the plants evenly receive light.

As a top dressing, eggplants most of all need nitrogenous and potash fertilizers. After transplantation, plants usually begin to be fed on the 15-20th day, when they take root well. Top dressing should be carried out no more than 1 time in 2 weeks.

The subtleties of growing seedlings

Growing seedlings is a process that will require certain knowledge from you. In this article, we will look at some of the important subtleties of this fascinating process.

To get started, stock up on the required number of boxes and containers for sowing and picking seedlings. You should not use a large container for these purposes and sow in it. various varieties rows.

Some seeds will germinate in 3-5 days and will need to be placed immediately in a well-lit area. Others will sprout in 5-10 or more days, and until that time they must be kept under the film.

Therefore, it is better to use small containers, let each variety have its own container. The soil can be used purchased, it already contains everything required amount nutrients.

Preparing seeds for sowing

Before sowing, the seeds must be disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate for at least 3 hours. Then for 10-12 hours (preferably at night) place in any organo-mineral preparation and then for 3 hours in an immunostimulating one. After each preparation, the seeds must be washed in hot (about 50 ° C) water for 1-2 minutes.

It is better to sow seedlings according to the lunar calendar. In the second or third decade of January, eggplants, peppers and flowers are sown - all that does not sprout for a long time and grows slowly. Tomato seeds are sown in February in two or three doses.

seedling care

Containers with crops are covered with a film and kept in a warm place (with a temperature not lower than + 20 ° C). Once a day, you need to air them for 3-5 minutes.

After friendly "loops" appear, the boxes are placed under the lamp daylight. Illumination of seedlings is necessary even if your windows face south. Highlight in the morning (approximately from 5-30 to 9-30) and in the evening (from 17 to 23 hours).

Seedling picking

It is better to dive peppers and eggplants when they have cotyledon leaves. Do not deepen! Tomatoes and all other seedlings are transplanted after the appearance of 1-2 true leaves. You need to deepen to the cotyledons, water as needed, but do not fill.

After 5 days, make the first dressing of seedlings, then feed every 7-10 days. organic fertilizers alternate with minerals. Before planting in the ground, it is necessary to spray the seedlings with copper oxychloride and immunostimulants 2 times for prevention.

source http://vam-dachniki.ru/tonkosti-vy-rashhivaniya-rassady/

Probably, there is no greater grief for summer residents in life than the vagaries of the weather, especially frosts in early summer. No one is immune from this scourge, but about the inhabitants northern regions- and there is nothing to say, I myself live in Siberia. It's a shame that everything else can be dealt with - water, loosen, feed, transplant, show diligence, but it seems that there are no means against the elements. But we'll see who - who! The main thing is information.
HOW TO KNOW IF THERE WILL BE A FROST?
First of all, you need to listen on the radio or watch weather forecasts on the Internet. Although they are not always accurate, but if a frost of -1 ... 3 ° C is declared, then keep in mind - this is in the city, and familiar grannies usually report that there were
-5...7 oC. At the same time, if it rains outside the window, then everything will be in order, despite the forecast. If the sky cleared up, the wind died down, and the pressure, according to the forecast, rises, things are bad. Here one night can destroy or save a very significant part of the crop.
In spring and early summer, the most necessary thing in the country is a thermometer. It should not be installed on the house, where the temperature is always higher, but in the middle of the site, at a height of about 1-1.5 m. If by the evening the temperature drops to 2 ° C, your landings are at risk. Each site has its own climate, it depends on the location of the site, the direction of the winds and much, much more.
The surest way to determine whether there will be frost in your area is the readings of two thermometers - dry and wet, and the attached table, it is advisable to place it next to the thermometers, sealed in polyethylene. It will not be difficult to assemble such a device, you just need to buy two identical thermometers in the store, and it is important that when buying they show the same temperature, otherwise anything can happen.
In the country, they are placed away from the house, one is hung just like that, and the lower part of the second is wrapped with a wick, the end of which must be immersed in water, and the water from the wick had the opportunity to evaporate all the time. As soon as you do this, the thermometers will begin to show different temperatures - dry - normal, and wet - "dew point". Looking at the table and finding a cell at the junction of the readings of two thermometers, it is easy to determine whether there is a threat of freezing exactly where you are standing, and from experience with a probability of almost 100%. For example, the indication of a dry thermometer is 15 ° C, and a wet one is 8 ° C, this is a blue cell, it seems to be warm, but frost is guaranteed. If the cell is in the green zone, frost is possible, if it is in the white zone, everything is in order (table).
SEEDLING ON THE BALCONY
If you still have seedlings on open balcony, with slight frosts
(-1 ... 4 ° C) you can be calm for it. It will be easily transferred by all perennial flowers, asters, petunias, other flower trifles, strawberries. Nevertheless, it is necessary to hide dahlias, zinnias, all flowers with thick fleshy stems from frost. From vegetables - nothing will happen to tomatoes at all, the same thing will happen with cabbage, they will only harden, it is better to bring peppers into the house, and it is advisable to keep eggplants warm until planting. As for cucumbers and their closest relatives - zucchini, pumpkins, squash, watermelons and melons, they have no place at all on a cold balcony. Their roots are the first to suffer from the cold. The plant may look decent enough until July and even August, but it just won't produce a crop.
GARDEN
For all the times of agriculture, only two ways have been invented to save flowering trees from frost: sprinkling, which is quite problematic to implement in a summer cottage, and smoking. Smoke raises the air temperature by only one or two degrees, but most often this is enough, because the most cold air creeps along the ground.
Arranging a smoke pile is nowhere easier. The bottom layer is made from any natural combustible material - chips, bark, cones, dry grass or tops, dry twigs, the top - from wet leaves, wet tops, mowed grass. Everyone falls asleep on top of the earth, leaving only one hole at the bottom - for ignition and smoke exit. Now the garden is almost nothing to fear. Heaps are made about as much as a garden occupies, and they are located away from greenhouses, greenhouses and, of course, country house.
Strawberries will have the hardest time of all, it grows near the ground itself. Strawberry flowers die at -1 ... 3 ° C, and at -4 ° C - and all the ovaries. Covering with a film without a frame is almost useless, there are two options here - put rags or newspapers under the film, or make a frame.
Carrots, parsley, peas, beans, dill, spinach, all onions, perennial flowers are not afraid of almost any frost in the garden. Beets can die completely, in radishes they will only grab the tops, the root crop will grow, salads can also give new leaves. The beans die right in the ridge, even if they didn’t show up, but only hatched, they need to be covered. Flowers - a long list, but the first to die are marigolds, saffrons and everyone who has a thick fleshy stem. There will be no asters, only flowers can freeze in petunias. The roses will freeze the leaves, and the flowers will be smaller, usually this is where it ends. On all crops and on all beds, any mulch will help to cope with frosts - humus, peat, compost, grass. These substances contain air, and it keeps heat longer. Potatoes and other plants with powerful shoots can simply be sprinkled with earth before freezing.
If cabbage seedlings are beaten with frost, you won’t notice it right away. Everything is green, the leaves are thick and strong, growing. That's just the middle, a few days after freezing, it becomes completely smooth, and the rudiment of the head of cabbage is not in the center, but somewhere on the side. Everything, there will be no sense - this is a frozen point of growth, the seedlings must be replaced, otherwise one empty head of cabbage or several of the same will grow.
Plantings are covered with traditional materials, everything that is in the country, including boxes, buckets, newspapers, halves of plastic bottles, and even cans. And you don’t have to remove the shelter every morning, you can leave it for the entire time of a cold snap, nothing but good will happen from this. A simple bunch of grass, thrown on the growth point of cabbage, also helps remarkably.
To preserve cabbage seedlings, there is a radical remedy - a light covering material on top from planting seedlings until the end of summer, that's exactly what I do. No frost, no cruciferous flea, no scoops, no whites, no cabbage fly - nothing is scary.
GREENHOUSE
By the beginning of June, the greenhouse usually contains the remains of radishes and different seedlings, for sure - nothing will happen to them, they have experienced a lot of things and hardened. But "home" heat-loving crops during severe frosts will have to be closed in two layers. The first can be any covering material directly on the plants, the second is a film on the frame. All ends of the film must be covered with earth.
Between the plants and around, again, with a very strong frost, you can put bottles and cans of water, bricks, stones, and in general, as many different objects as possible. All this will heat up during the day, and at night it will work like a heating battery. There are also special heating blocks for the greenhouse - "Climate". In extreme circumstances, even regular candles, of course, with all precautions.
By the way, an example from the life of safety. Friends in Yakutsk also manage to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse. Nose furnace heating. Let's go to the dacha to escape from -10 °C frost - this is Yakutsk! In the morning I call and ask: “Well, isn’t it cold?” "No, it's not cold. It's burned down!" It's good that only the greenhouse burned down, learn from the mistakes of others.
IF EVERYTHING
BAD LUCK…
From experience, frozen eggplants and peppers are almost always better to throw away and buy new seedlings from the market. Usually eggplants die for a long time, but for good, and peppers try, but do not have time to give new shoots, well, three pieces of peppers will grow, the game is also not worth the candle. Zucchini, pumpkins, physalis, cucumbers - left us forever.
But, how many years I dig the earth - I admire tomatoes so much, how tenacious and unpretentious they are. And here I would like to give an example from life. In the early morning, at 5 o'clock, I wake up from the noise - a neighbor in the country is sobbing. From tomatoes growing up to my waist, grown at home since February, after freezing, only skeletons remained, not only the leaves, but also the shoots died. To begin with, we (purely intuitively) began to pour tomatoes with ice water, and some shoots and even leaves nevertheless recovered right before our eyes, by 7 am. But general form remained sad. And then I remembered that I have an ampule of Epin. We sprinkled everything, closed it from the sun, and a real miracle happened - the tomatoes came to life, gave new shoots, and then the harvest, except that there were more stepchildren.
After frosts, other growth stimulants can also be used, mainly these are substances of natural origin, and not "chemistry", they increase the immunity of plants and help them survive stress.
Have a good harvest and a frost-free summer!

White cabbage is perhaps the most moisture-loving crop compared to other vegetables. In one day, an adult plant evaporates about 7 liters of moisture, so it must be watered accordingly. The correct watering regimen is especially important during the heading period, which lasts throughout September, and for some varieties even longer.
For the normal development of cabbage, it must be watered 2-3 times a week, soaking the soil to a depth of at least 35-40 cm. Untimely watering is especially harmful to this vegetable, when the soil dries out in dry weather, and then it is abundantly spilled with water. In this mode, heads of cabbage often crack. The same phenomenon can be observed with an excess of moisture in the soil, when the gardener is too zealous with watering, or during prolonged rains.
In the first half of autumn, white cabbage is harvested. Mid-season varieties with a growing season of 120-150 days are harvested during September as the heads of cabbage ripen. Harvest of medium-late varieties with a growing season of 140-160 days is ready for cutting, usually by the end of September or the beginning of October. Late varieties, heads of which ripen after more than 160 days, are harvested in the first half of October, if there is no threat of severe frosts. Focusing on the growing season of a particular variety, you need to stop watering each of them 2-3 weeks before harvesting.
Continuing to water the plants autumn period under the root, it is worth remembering that sufficient humidity is also important for their maturation. To do this, it makes sense to additionally irrigate the plants with water from a watering can.
September is usually dry with occasional short-term precipitation. However, you should constantly monitor the weather forecast and, in case of prolonged rains, install arcs over the bed and throw a film over them. This will protect heads of cabbage from cracking in conditions excessive moisture soil and air. To do this, you can use another technique: each head of cabbage is slightly twisted, thus violating the integrity of part of the root system, or the roots are slightly cut with a shovel. Through the damaged root system, less moisture and nutrients will flow to the heads of cabbage. This will certainly stop their growth, but it will protect them from cracking.
It happens that by September the heads of cabbage are poorly developed and slowly pour. This indicates insufficient plant nutrition. To make up for the lack of nutrients, in the first decade of September, it makes sense to feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. To do this, mix superphosphate and potassium sulfate in a ratio of 2: 1, respectively. For one plant use 1 tbsp. such a mixture, evenly embedding it in a dry form in the soil around the plant, stepping back from the stem 10-15 cm, and then watering.
In the first autumn month, unwanted insects can continue to harm cabbage: larvae and caterpillars of the cabbage fly, cabbage scoop and cabbage moth. Since insecticides can no longer be applied during this period, it is necessary to control pests by collecting them manually or using them. For example, for these purposes, it makes sense to periodically dust the plants with sifted wood ash after sprinkling from a watering can or in the early morning, while the dew has not yet dried.
Heads of cabbage are cut as they ripen, depending on the precocity of the variety. The ripeness of this vegetable is easy to determine not only by assessing the size and density of the head of cabbage, but also by the bright, shiny spot formed on its “crown”.
Harvest must be handled with extreme care during the harvesting process. Hitting heads of cabbage against hard objects should be avoided, and even more so, they should not be thrown to the ground. In addition, contact with the soil should not be allowed so as not to infect the cabbage. It is cut off with a part of the stump, coarse rosette leaves are removed, leaving 3-4 green covering leaves, and immediately placed in bags or boxes, and then stored. By the way, in Holland, famous for its merits in agriculture, the harvesting of white cabbage is compared with the collection of eggs on a poultry farm.
If harvesting is carried out in rainy weather, which is highly undesirable, the cabbage must be dried well before being laid in the basement. And in sunny weather, heads of cabbage should not be left outdoors for a long time, because they lose moisture very quickly and wither.
It is worth remembering that the crop of mid-ripening varieties is stored for no more than 2-3 months and it must be eaten first or used for fermentation. In such cabbage, which has fallen in the garden under small short-term frosts, more sugars are formed, which positively affects its taste during sourdough. Late varieties must be harvested before stable cold snaps, when the temperature can drop below -3-4 ° C. If this was not possible and the heads of cabbage froze after severe frosts, they must be left in the garden to thaw for another 4-5 days and only then cut off. But this should be avoided, because in such conditions there is a high probability of the formation of “cuffs” in the heads of cabbage, which will make them unsuitable for storage.
Kudrina Irina

Even in autumn, white cabbage continues to grow vigorously and pour. Therefore, gardeners wait to the last, as this is an increase in the yield of late varieties. And often such an expectation ends with the fact that the entire crop falls under frost.

If white cabbage has fallen under frost, this is not scary, since it is known that cabbage after late weak frosts only becomes tastier and sweeter, and bitterness disappears in many varieties. True, it is not worth rushing to clean frozen heads of cabbage. It is necessary to let them thaw in the bud, then there will be no combustion process, and the cabbage can be safely removed to the basement for storage.

The thaw will take three five days. It is good if there are no repeated frosts at this time.

If it is impossible to leave heads of cabbage on the vine, then they are chopped and laid in a cool room with a pile, which is covered wadded blanket, and kept in such a shelter for a week. With gradual thawing taste qualities heads of cabbage do not change, and they can be used in cooking or in sauerkraut. It's just impossible to store such a crop.

But cut heads of cabbage that have fallen under frost freeze forever, and they can no longer be thawed.

Therefore, such heads of cabbage can be cut off - thawed and cleaned by frost-damaged layers, of which there are few.

From frozen heads of cabbage, you can make borscht, cabbage soup, sour, but salads are much worse.

Help from "Economy"

It has long been noticed that varieties with dense heads freeze through more than loose ones. All because of the layers of air, which do not allow the whole head of cabbage to freeze.

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