Triple socket indoor installation. Triple rosette: increased comfort and enhanced design. We fix the socket in the concrete wall

Install the socket in the finished socket box, it would seem simple task. After all, often, drilling and installing the socket itself into the wall takes much more time.

However, even here there are nuances, misconceptions and rules that some may not know about, while others, on the contrary, argue to the last, insisting that they are right (for example, connecting a double socket with a loop).

Consider the main points and stages of this process.

Safety and Tool

First of all, before the production of work, it is required to ensure safety. When replacing or installing sockets, always turn off the GENERAL introductory machine for the entire apartment or house, and not specifically on this outlet.

This must be done in order to break not only the phase, but also zero. After disconnection, check the absence of voltage with an indicator at the place of work.

Prepare the necessary tool:

You may also need:

Recessed socket box

The first rule concerns the socket itself. If you mount not a final, but a pass-through socket, that is, one on which the cable will not end, but go further down or sideways to other sockets or switches, always use recessed sockets.

The standard one comes with a depth of 45mm, and you need to take 60mm. This is necessary for compact placement of wires, especially the ground wire (why it is, will be discussed below).

Do not try to cram all the conductors, which is called back to back. There will be no benefit from such savings, but only one harm.

In addition, the installation itself will be better, more convenient and will not cause insoluble difficulties. For example, when the outlet or its frame will not fit snugly against the wall. Because of this, the veins will have to be shortened. Again, disassemble everything, re-mount and dismantle.

Here is a photo standard outlet recessed in a standard socket.

All the space that remains inside it for wiring is about 1 cm. If you use a model with a depth of 60mm, then you will add as much as 1.5cm of mounting depth.

Feel what is called the difference.

Stripping length

When stripping the outer sheath of the cable, one should not strive to remove it to the maximum depth, i.e. up to the wall of the socket.

Always try to leave a few millimeters. Thus, the insulation of the cores will be protected from chafing or crushing by the sharp edges of the socket.

It is very convenient to do this on a NYM round cable, with a special Jokari puller.

Make a circular incision, and then immediately longitudinal. After that, even in cramped conditions, the shell is easily pulled out.

With flat cables of the brand VVG and, such a trick cannot be done.

And if it is still a GOST cable, and not a TU-shny one, then even more so.

As a rule, a knife with a heel cuts the outer insulation right up to the wall of the box.

That is why many electricians like the NYM cable brand, and not VVG. Because of the convenience of cutting and ease of working with it.

Although each brand has its own advantages and disadvantages.

By the way, in rare cases, you can also find a round-section VVG cable.

How much insulation must be removed from the core itself before it is brought into the contact? Much of course depends on the brand of the outlet.

Some models even have a template that is very easy to navigate.

But usually, the bare part of the core should not exceed 8-10mm.

The length of the wires protruding from the socket is selected based on:

• ease of installation

• socket depth

You must understand that the length that you leave will be useful in the future for convenient dismantling, pulling out and carrying out some kind of revision work. Or even replacing the outlet with a different model.

As a rule, leave a length equal to the width of 3-4 fingers.

Connecting sockets with a loop

The main nuance that causes heated debate among electricians is whether it is possible to connect the outlet with a cable? And in this matter, many are divided into 3 camps:

• possible in some cases

• you can always, if the design of the outlet allows

Most modern sockets always have two terminals for each wire: phase-zero-ground. Total 6 contacts.

It is assumed that in the through socket all six ends of the wires (3 incoming + 3 outgoing) can be safely brought into the terminals, clamped and be sure that everything is done correctly.

However, there is a paragraph of the rules of the EIC, clause 1.7.144, which reads:

That is, phase and neutral working conductors are connected by a loop without problems, but for the ground conductor, according to adherents of a categorical ban, this is unacceptable.

For him, it is necessary to make a branch. Moreover, it is desirable to perform it in a screwless way so that it does not have to be serviced (tightened) in the future. And this means - sleeve crimping, or soldering or welding.

The easiest and most convenient way to do this is by pressing. Fold the final section of the three cores that will be connected by crimping and select the appropriate sleeve.

For example, you have a 3 * 2.5mm2 power cable. incoming vein 2.5mm2 + branch to a 2.5mm2 socket + outgoing cable core to an adjacent 2.5mm2 socket. Total theoretically - 7.5mm2.

Due to the fact that the actual cross-section of the cores does not always correspond to the declared one, and the weakening of the contacts is not permissible here, select a sleeve with a slightly smaller cross-section than the calculated one - GML-6.

Get the vein into the sleeve and crimp the press with tongs.

Always bite off the excess length of the sleeve so that it does not take free space in the socket.

The resulting joint is best protected with heat shrink tubing.

Although, of course, no one forbids applying several layers of high-quality electrical tape.

Especially if you have a powerful one, without smooth temperature control. With such an apparatus, it is possible to inadvertently melt individual parts of the socket.

If you do it differently, using the factory socket terminals, what does it threaten? For example, you have two double sockets connected in series. One at a height of 90 cm, the other, just below it, at a level above the plinth.

Power to the bottom, comes from the top. If there is an interruption or violation of the ground contact in the very first of them, then automatically the "earth" will disappear on the rest.
Which is absolutely unacceptable.

However, many electricians believe that the ban on such looping only applies to sockets located in different blocks, away from each other. And this rule in no way applies to double sockets located in one block, united by a single frame.

That is, in fact, such a block is a kind of connector that has a single body. So, it can be considered as a single electrical installation product.

Most double-tees and even extensions are made in this way.

You will not be able to disassemble a single product without disconnecting the plugs from adjacent connectors. And since you have disconnected these plugs, then breaking the grounding conductor at the very first point will not affect anything.

But if the socket blocks are located far from each other, and do not have a common body, then it is absolutely impossible to connect them with a cable.

Well, the third interpreters of the paragraph of the rules of the PUE 1.7.144 reasonably notice that in the PUE itself, nothing is said about the prohibition of “loops”. There is even no such concept for outlets.

It says that the "Pe" conductor must be electrically inseparable (the essence of this word is electrically). And that it is impossible to include the current-carrying elements of the device in series in the circuit of the grounding conductor.

Neither one nor the other is in the loop. In most of these sockets for one terminal, both conductors are immediately clamped. Moreover, in an acceptable way (screw or spring).

Now, if the socket had an earth entrance on one side, and an exit on the other (from under another independent contact), then yes - it’s impossible! Moreover, the PUE does not consider the socket contacts as open conductive parts, so clause 1.7.144 has nothing to do with it.

Even if you are forced to dismantle one of the looped sockets in this way, in addition to the protective wire, you will break the phase and neutral wire nicknames.

Which of these opinions is correct and how to mount you?

If you do what is called for yourself and “for centuries”, so as not to look into the socket for decades, then put a sleeve and make a branch, not a loop.

The same applies to objects for delivery to regulatory authorities. In order not to redo all the wiring and not to prove your own reading of the PUE, to some energy supervision inspector, forget about looping. Do not give an extra reason for remarks.

Well, if you are firmly convinced that the cable is not a violation at all, and it was not in vain that socket manufacturers initially included the possibility of such a connection in their products, then at home you are free to act like supporters of the second and third methods.

After all, it's yours own house, and no one has the right to forbid you to do so, and not otherwise.

Caliper location

The next question is how to properly position the socket support inside the socket - with the terminals down or up.

Some are guided by the inscriptions on the body. They should be legible and not upside down.

On the one hand, this is quite logical. But in reality, there is not much difference. AT normative documents it is not reflected in any way.

Therefore, mount it the way you feel comfortable doing it. For example, focus on the incoming cable.

Phase left or right

Further, all that remains is to connect the cores to the outlet itself and install it inside. Here you can encounter the following point, which also causes disputes and contradictions among electricians.

Where exactly in the outlet to connect the wires? If everything is clear with the earth, for it there is a place in the middle, then where to start zero and phase?

On the left contact or on the right? Each electrician does this at his own discretion. Because, again, in the rules, there is no clear indication of where the phase should be connected to the outlet.

For example, it would be wrong for sockets in the hall, put the phase on the right terminal, and in the bedroom - on the left. If you have already connected one according to some scheme, connect all the others in the same way.

As for the colors of the connected cores, then it is already necessary to comply with the current standard.

Fixing screws on the sides preliminary fastening. Next, with a compact level of an electrician, check the horizontalness of the installation.

If everything is fine, tighten the screws completely. After that, do not forget to tighten two more internal fixing screws.

When they are tightened, the legs extend, with which the socket clings to the inner walls of the socket box.

In high-quality and expensive specimens, manufacturers make such paws double on each side.

All that remains is to install the front panel and overlay frame.

For some brands, such as Legrand, overhead frames are interchangeable.

That is, the fastening mechanism itself remains in the socket, and the plug-in element can be changed. For example, instead of the usual model with curtains, put a waterproof one (for the bathroom), or vice versa.

Another point concerns frames. If you are installing an outlet block, then keep in mind that not all brands front panel square. Most often it is rectangular.

And this means that you will not be able to insert it into a decorative frame in any way.

For example, to rotate 90 degrees, you have to pick out of the frame fastener with latches, and also turn it at a right angle.

Only after that, everything is fixed without problems.

Thus, the same frame can be placed both in a vertical block of sockets and in a horizontal one.

Repair work in the apartment is not only plastering and painting the walls, followed by wallpapering. To make your home cozy and comfortable, you need to take care of the installation of electrical appliances. Therefore, the installation of sockets may not be the main event, but it plays a key role in the repair of an apartment.

Modern appliances are becoming more energy-intensive, in addition, there are more and more of them in our Everyday life. Therefore, triple sockets have recently been in high demand, which provide the connection of several devices to one point. Such a connection scheme will be useful in the kitchen, where it is usually not possible to stretch an extension cord, but there is an urgent need to simultaneously use several electrical appliances necessary for cooking. In this article, we will look at how to install , we will analyze the nuances of self-assembly.

Accessories for assembling a triple socket

Let's look at what basic components our triple socket will consist of. Modern market electrical equipment offers customers a wide range of sockets. However, in this abundance, finding a triple socket in a single housing is very problematic. Even finding the product you are looking for, a person may encounter two problems:

1. 1. Clearly overpriced product;
2. 2. The model does not meet the requirements of the buyer.

What to do in such a situation? Most craftsmen use this method in 99% of cases - they collect required size block of single sockets. Therefore, often a triple socket is assembled from three ordinary sockets.

To do this, we need three ordinary sockets, with rated current 16 A. And we need only their inner part. The overhead frames of each outlet can be safely thrown away, since we will not need them. And to combine three single sockets, we need a special patch frame with three holes, which will create the appearance of a single whole.

How to install triple socket boxes

The installation process begins with determining the location of the block of three outlets. From correct location will directly affect the functionality of the design. For example, in the kitchen, three sockets in one socket are conveniently installed above the countertop. Thus, you can simultaneously connect a microwave oven, multicooker and other Appliances without worrying about the length of the cord.

In a room, it is better to install such a unit behind the TV, skillfully masking all connected wires with a wide screen. It is possible to install such a block of sockets in bathrooms, but here it is important to comply with the requirements fire safety. In particular:

• The minimum distance to flowing water is 60 centimeters (zone 3);
• The socket group must be hermetic and moisture resistant with an appropriate degree of protection IP.

Having decided on the installation site, you need to prepare the tool and you can start marking the walls. For mounting triple socket in one socket you will need:

1. 1. Building level;
2. 2. Roulette;
3. 3. Pencil or marker;
4. 4. Perforator with a nozzle for wall chasing and a crown.

Please note that the installation of a block of three outlets is best done on early stages repair work until the walls are finished.

Wall marking

Please note that this is very milestone work, on which the geometry of the sockets and the convenience of connecting the wiring will depend. Therefore, the marking of the walls must be approached with the utmost responsibility. When marking, you need to be guided by the number of outlets combined into a block.

When performing work, be sure to use the building level: this way you will gain confidence that the structure will be perfectly flat and there will be no problems with installation and connection. If a block of three sockets sits crookedly, the mistake made will immediately be evident.

There are certain requirements for marking walls for installing electrical outlets. For example, distance between the centers of the sockets is exactly 72 mm. Keep this in mind when marking. Failure to comply with this parameter will lead to the fact that the decorative panel simply does not “sit down” in its place.

In addition, the strobe for laying wires must pass strictly horizontally or vertically from the socket. Only after fulfilling these requirements, it is possible to drill holes and ditch the walls.

Drilling a hole in the wall

After the walls are marked, you need to do mounting hole for the socket. This is not difficult to do, the main thing is to have a good puncher with a special diamond crown for concrete on hand. Such "crowns" are used for drilling holes of a given diameter in brick walls and concrete floors.

The algorithm for working with a crown is simple and intuitive, so even a novice master usually has no problems. The nozzle is inserted into the chuck and the hole is drilled in the right place. Drilling ends when the bottom of the crown rests against the wall. The remains of concrete are knocked down with a chisel.

If you are installing socket boxes in a drywall wall, then you will need a special nozzle for drilling holes. drywall walls. You can also use a utility knife.

Also, do not forget about the power cable, for it you also need to make a strobe. The width of the strobe depends on how thick the cable will be connected to the sockets (it will be corrugated or not). Our socket group will need cable with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm2.

We fix the socket in the concrete wall

To keep it in the wall, you need to fix the box with alabaster. It is important here to correctly calculate the amount of the mixture that will be applied to the back and side walls. If you overdo it, then the extra alabaster will stick out, an insufficient amount of the mixture will not be able to ensure reliable fixation of the socket. The amount of alabaster is determined individually, depending on the type of partition.

The consistency of the alabaster mixture should not be too liquid, as it will spread when applied. But it also doesn’t need to be made too thick, otherwise it will be difficult to apply and smear (besides, the thick mixture will quickly seize and dry out). I always prepare the mixture by eye, in small portions.

Such material will provide better adhesion of the socket to the wall and dry quickly. By the way, it is precisely because of the drying speed that alabaster should be preferred to other types of building mixtures.

Process installation of a socket in concrete wall it happens like this: a diluted mixture is applied to the inner walls, a block is inserted and securely fixed for a while. At this stage, it is important to observe the geometry and set the structure at a given level. Please note that the mounting screws must match both the vertical and horizontal level of the sockets.

At installation of a socket box for a triple socket unforgettable about the power cable, we also push it into the hole. Some craftsmen, on the contrary, fix the sockets without a cable and stick it into the box only after the solution has dried. Explaining this by the fact that the cable, bending, knocks the box down from the level. There is no significant difference in this and you can do it the way it is easier and more convenient for you. It's easier for me to get the cable right away.

Alabaster will dry for about two hours, when the mixture sets, you can start connecting the wiring.

How to connect a triple socket

As you can see in the photo, only one cable is suitable for our socket, and three sockets will be installed here. Therefore, we will connect the sockets to each other with a loop in series with each other. This connection option is the most optimal in this case, as it helps to significantly save on the cable for electrical wiring.

But with this method of connection there is one feature. According to the electrical installation rules (PUE), daisy chain connection is not applicable to connecting sockets. However, as practice shows, most electricians do not follow this rule. For example, the electrician Uncle Petya makes home-made jumpers from cable cores and powers the second outlet from the first terminals, the third outlet from the second terminals, etc. This is how all three cores of the cable are connected (in the case of a three-wire system) - phase, zero and ground.

BUT, as I said above, according to paragraph 1.7.144 of the PUE, it is PROHIBITED to do so. Namely, when connecting, it is forbidden to break the neutral protective conductor. I try to stick PUE requirements and below I want to tell and show the plume correctly.

The regulatory document states that zero protective and grounding conductors must be connected to devices and installed using a separate branch method. Therefore, for our case, the ground wire to each outlet should be connected with a separate branch, and not with a loop.

How to implement this rule in action? Everything is very simple. It is necessary to make as many branches of the ground wire as there will be sockets. A branch can be made using crimping. All the connecting nodes that we get in this case, we can easily hide in the box.

To perform this procedure, we need to cut a piece of cable. For this purpose, I use a VVG cable 3 * 2.5 mm2. It's good that the colors of the cores in it are human: the brown core is a phase, the blue core is zero, the yellow-green core is grounding.

We are preparing three pieces of wire for the ground branch. The connection will be by crimping.

To connect the phase and neutral wires, you will need to make two sets of jumpers. Three more pieces of wire will be required to install the ground wire branches.

We connect the prepared pieces of the yellow-green wire with the grounding conductor of the supply cable and press the press with pliers. In order to insulate the sleeve, I will use heat shrink tubing. The resulting connection is neatly laid on the bottom junction box.

As a result, we got a separate grounding branch for each outlet, which does not contradict paragraph 1. 7. 144 of the PUE.

We connect the phase and neutral wires with a loop. There are no restrictions on the rules here. To the first terminal of the socket we connect the phase from the power cable and the jumper going to the next socket. To the second terminal - we connect the neutral wire with a jumper in a similar way. The number of loops is repeated according to the number of sockets combined into a single block.

Fortunately, the design of the sockets is such that it allows you to plug two wires under one contact. Remember that if you tighten two wires under one contact, then you need to use wires of the same cross section, otherwise a wire with a large cross section will tighten well, and a wire of a smaller cross section will have bad contact. This may result in a fire.

Then it remains only to install the sockets and fix decorative panel. Now you know how a triple socket is mounted and connected to one socket. Good luck everyone, see you next time. Thanks for watching. I will be glad to answer comments, feel free to ask questions.

What variety electrical appliances in the shops! Everything seems to be necessary. However, having come home, it turns out that there is nowhere to connect it already. And again to the store for a tee or extension cord. And then dissatisfaction: either the wires are underfoot, or the same tee does not look. That's when the desire appears - so that there are enough connection points, and they look. As long as there is demand, there is supply. The industry has long been producing double and triple sockets.

The range of these devices is huge: and color, and shape, and size. It seems that it is easier - to choose which one you like, and that's it. However, there are manufacturers who make low-quality material, and in order to buy it, they make it beautiful. How to choose a beautiful and high-quality outlet? There are two types:

1. with spade contacts;
2. with spring contacts.

The former are easier to manufacture and therefore, as a rule, cheaper. They can be used to connect low-power electrical appliances or where the plug is rarely pulled out, such as a TV. Under heavy loads, the contacts heat up and lose their elasticity. With frequent use of the socket, the contacts are deformed. In both cases, a gap appears between the plug and the socket contacts, which leads to sparking and heating. This, in turn, can cause either a short circuit or a fire.

The second design is more complex and expensive. It has a movable contact, which is pressed against the stop with a spring. The distance between the movable and fixed contacts is easily changed, which makes it possible to use such a device frequently. Clinging tightly to the plug, the contact allows the use of high current, and hence power.

The second thing you should pay attention to when buying is the material of the mounting platform - what the contacts and terminals for connecting wires are attached to. They also come in two types:

1. from ceramics;
2. from plastic.

Ceramics is not only a good insulator, but also absolutely non-combustible. Does not deform when the temperature changes. The second material also does not conduct electricity. But some manufacturers, in order to save money, use combustible material. This can lead to both fire and toxic gas poisoning.

But that's not all. You need to be discerning. What will the socket be used for? And in the future? Today it will be needed to recharge the phone, and after some time, perhaps, a powerful vacuum cleaner will be connected to it. Will it then function normally? To do this, you need to know what current will pass through it. Manufacturers are usually reverse side cases indicate the voltage and current for which the device is designed.

If you put three single sockets in a row, they won’t look, you need a finished composition.

Ready-made three-socket blocks are sold, and there is also a separate front panel that covers three nearby sockets. The choice will depend on the cost, and on the model you like. When buying a panel, you will need to match the sockets to it so that they fit exactly together.

Determination of the installation location

Where to put the socket block? Comfort, aesthetics, and safety are all taken into account. But it is necessary to take into account the safety rules and technical operation. If you look at European standards, then the distance between the floor and such a block should be 20-40 cm, according to Soviet - 100-120 cm . Perhaps the location will depend on the installation method.. And she happens:

• outdoor;
• internal.

Outdoor is used in old buildings, in industrial, non-residential premises. Produced directly on the wall. The cable or wires are placed in a tray made of non-combustible material.

In new houses and in premises after renovation, as a rule, internal or hidden wiring is installed, as well as sockets with switches. In any case, the wires from the junction box to the outlet must be laid strictly vertically or horizontally. This must be taken into account when choosing a place, so that later you do not have to go around obstacles.

Preparatory work

We are talking about installing a triple socket internal. Again, there are two installation methods:

1. with one socket;
2. with three sockets.

Whatever the choice, it is necessary to mark the installation site. Some recommend using a level, however, if the floor is not level, the design will look uneven. Therefore, it is better to make the socket for the outlet a little larger so that you can adjust it. If you decide to install a triple socket in one socket, then you need to measure the dimensions of the socket, make a tolerance and gouge a hole in the wall.

When installing three single sockets, you need to put a socket under each of them. Here special precision is needed. It is necessary not only to set the level, but also to calculate the distances so that each of them enters its socket on the front panel.

It is necessary to fasten the socket box firmly, even a little laxity can destroy the plaster, and it will be unpleasant for yourself. You can fix it with dowels, if you have the skill, as you can destroy the socket. However, it will be more practical to use screws, who knows, you may have to change or remove them.

The stores sell kits: screws and sleeves. We put the socket box in the hollowed out socket and mark the place for the fasteners. We drill a hole along the diameter of the sleeve (it can be a little less, but not more) and insert the sleeve, it should hold firmly. When tightening the screw, the sleeve will press even more tightly against the wall. If the wall is brick, you can use conventional drill, although, if there is soldered, desired diameter- better than him. For concrete, it’s definitely worth taking a soldered drill, since they are now freely sold.

Wire preparation

It's time to think about laying cables or wires. To do this, you need to decide what you will use. According to the rules, each outlet must have its own wire. If the sockets are provided with grounding, then one more conductor is additionally needed. The earth wire is used without insulation.

It would be nice to have one or two cores in stock. When connecting a triple socket, one of the cores can be damaged. aluminum wire, especially if it is cut, it breaks easily. You can make a mistake and cut shorter than necessary. During operation, due to the heavy load, the wires can burn. That's when the backup core will be more than ever useful.

A little more about the material of the conductive conductor. Earlier it was said about the need to think under what load the outlet will work. This is true for wire as well. There are many reference books, tables for calculating the cross section of a conductor, depending on the current passing through it. A stranded conductor carries much more current than a single-core conductor of the same cross section. Based on this, you can decide what will be used - wire or cable.

After you have bought everything you need, draw a line on the wall from the main electrical outlet or box to the nest you made.

Remember, the line must go strictly vertically or horizontally. Hollow out the track so that the cable or wires go completely under the plaster. If there is a suspicion that there will be wiring nearby, it is necessary to de-energize the apartment.

This is possible when the gasket is made to the box, which is nearby, but slightly to the side.

Before installing the socket box, a hole for the wire (cable) is drilled in the case. If there are three of them, then in each of them. After that we fix it to the wall. After securing one end, check the level. If one outlet is crooked, it is hardly noticeable, but if it is triple, it immediately catches the eye. Screw the sockets and go to the wire.

Before you fix the cable, ring all its cores and mark them. In some cables, the insulation of each core is colored in its own color. If wires are used, marking is not needed, but it is necessary to ring. After that, lay them in the groove and secure. Measure the end that will be connected to the network so that it is enough to put it into the box and connect it. Do not forget about the rule - always leave a reserve, even if more is better than not enough. Do not connect to the network yet.

Insert the other end into the socket and connect to the socket terminals. Check the integrity of the wires and the correct connection. This can be done in the following way. A jumper is made from a bare wire and inserted into a socket, then this circuit is called. The same is done with the second and third. Grounding is connected separately, if it is not there, you will have to do it yourself.

It remains to plaster the wires and the socket. If the holes for the wires are very large, they must be sealed so that the plaster does not get inside. After the plaster has dried, seal the wall and cover the triple outlet. It remains to figure out how to connect a triple outlet to the network. Connection can be of two types:

1. to an existing box, for example, we change a single outlet to a triple one;
2. directly to the center line.

Connection in a box

First of all, completely de-energize the apartment. Never try to work under voltage! Open the box and inspect the connections. If they are wrapped with electrical tape - unwind, put on caps - remove. This is done in order to provide access to conductive elements. At the same time, try on if the wires fit in the box?

Check bare wires in the box so that they do not touch and apply voltage. Next, it will be necessary to determine where the phase is located - the conductor through which the current comes. You can use an indicator or a device that measures voltage. Everything is clear with the indicator: touch the conductive element, if a light signal appears - this is a phase.

The device is another matter. As it is measured alternating current, it is impossible to understand where the phase is, and where is zero. Therefore, the person himself is used as zero. The probe of the device is taken in one hand, and the other touches all connections in turn. There is no need to be afraid: the current passing through the circuit will be so small that the most sensitive person will not feel it. But for this, the connected scale of the measured voltage on the device must be at least 250 volts.

If there are more than two connection points in the box, you must make sure that the found phase connection refers to the center line.

Connect the phase to the three stripped wires that go to the contacts of the three outlets. The other three, connected to other socket contacts, connect to zero - this is another wire of the central line.

Line connection

To connect to the central line, purchase a junction box in advance. De-energize the apartment, cut the wire of the central line, install the box, strip the wires of the central line and from the outlet, put it all into the box. Connect the wires from the first contacts of the socket to one conductor of the line, connect the wires of the other contacts of the socket to another conductor. Connect the earth to the earth conductor.

Most often, a socket block of 2, 3, 4 "electric points" is installed in the kitchen and in the hall behind the TV. A horizontal or vertical panel of euro sockets is very convenient, because. allows you to connect an interacting group of household appliances in one place, for example: a TV, an audio system and a DVD player. Next, we will tell you how to properly install and connect the socket block in the house with your own hands!

What can be the nuance

To date, the walls in the house can be concrete, wood, brick or plasterboard. Because of this, the installation technology may have its own characteristics - if you will ditch the concrete in panel house, just install on the surface of the laid on block of sockets (outer) for open wiring. Next, we will briefly talk about each of the installation options, but you can still learn more about that in the corresponding article.

Another nuance is that now we are only considering the technology of installing and connecting the socket block. To date, there is still combined option: power socket + switch, but we will talk about the installation of such a combination separately.

Installation instructions

To make it clear to you how to properly install and connect the socket block with your own hands, then we will provide step by step instructions from A to Z with photo examples and visual videos lessons.

Step 1 - Preparatory work

First you need to decide where you want to put the outlet group in the room. If this is a kitchen, then it is better to place the socket block above the countertop so that when you connect the multicooker, microwave oven and another kitchen appliances the cord was long enough. In the living room or hall, it is best to install the product behind the TV so that the large screen can hide all the cords. If you decide to put a block of two or three sockets in the bathroom, consider important rule- the distance from the water must be at least 0.6 meters, and at the same time, the cases of electrical points must be waterproof. You can get more advice about this moment in the article -.

By the way, for the kitchen there is original version execution of the socket block - retractable. The mortise housing in this case is hidden in the countertop and opens with a slight pressure. It is very convenient and also safe, so if you wish, we recommend installing just such a model of products.

Also at this stage you must prepare a tool for and socket boxes. If the wall is concrete or brick, use a puncher with a special crown. For drywall also has its own nozzle for chasing. In addition, prepare the building level, marker and tape measure.

Step 2 - Marking the Walls

In fact, a very important stage, on which the correctness of further installation and connection will depend. You need to mark the surfaces for the sockets to be installed based on how many electrical sockets will be in the unit. The first and very important rule is that the distance between the centers of the sockets must be strictly 72 mm. If you make a mistake, when installing the decorative cover, it may not fall into place. In addition, make sure that all round strobes are placed in the same horizontal or vertical plane. To do this, we recommend using the building level.

When the walls are marked, you can proceed to chasing.

Step 3 - Making the strobe

At this stage, you must make seats for recessed sockets. There is nothing complicated here, the main thing is to have a puncher with a suitable nozzle at hand. If you decide to install the socket block in a concrete or brick wall, first punch the circles with a crown, and then knock out the entire core with a chisel and hammer. The instructions for installing a socket block in concrete are discussed in great detail in the video example below.

How to perform slicing brick wall for socket panel installation

If the walls in your apartment are sewn up with plasterboard sheets, it’s even easier here - using a perforator and a drywall crown, cut out round strobes according to the markings.

Installation of glasses in a plasterboard partition

Step 4 - Mounting the sockets

The next thing you need to do is install the socket block. Today there are special plastic glasses that can be interconnected. Connecting the sockets is not difficult even for a novice electrician.

In brick and concrete walls you need to smear glasses yourself gypsum mortar. In drywall, everything is simpler - the sockets are pressed against the sheet with special paws on the sides. Again, you can see the essence of installing socket boxes in the article that we referred to at the beginning.

Step 5 - Electrical connection

When the solution hardens (this applies to walls made of concrete and brick), you can proceed to the connection indoor unit do-it-yourself sockets for a 220V network. It is allowed to connect several euro sockets with a loop from one input cable, if you do not connect a very powerful household appliances, for example, an electric stove.

So, to begin with, turn off the power on the apartment panel, and then insert the lead wires from the junction box into the first socket: phase, zero and ground. After that, make jumpers to connect the remaining outlets in the block. Connecting a block of 3 or 4 sockets must be done according to this scheme:

After you connect all the cores to the appropriate terminals, you can fix the euro socket cases in the sockets yourself and install a decorative cover.

triple socket- a device of three modules that allows you to connect several electrical appliances at once. This is convenient and avoids the need to lay additional wires. With the installation of a triple outlet, you can handle it yourself. The main thing is to follow the installation technique and not violate safety rules.

Types of triple sockets

They are distinguished based on their shape, device and size:

• internal (installed in case of hidden type wiring);
• external (have increased security and a built-in protective cover);
• built into the wall and overhead.

Modern variants additionally include the following types:

1. with the presence of grounding;
2. with no grounding;
3. with the presence of a safety shutdown (the device is turned off by a wired short circuit).

Sockets equipped with only one power wire are designed to connect a maximum of three devices at a time.

Devices can be produced individually (plug-in sockets), each with a rated current of 16 A. To make them triple, you need to install three separate cases. For greater aesthetics, they can be combined with a common outer frame. It is bought separately. In order not to be mistaken, it is better to purchase everything at once, since the contours of the frame and rosette panels may not match.

Preparatory work

The recommended location of the device is 20 to 40 cm from the floor. This corresponds to modern European standards and is not only rational in terms of convenience, but also attractive in appearance, since instrument cables will be less noticeable.

Basic preparatory measures:

1. Verify product specifications. Especially if the wiring is hidden. It is worth double-checking whether it is really designed for a triple load from electrical appliances. Otherwise, there will be overvoltage electrical network and the wiring will burn out.
2. Mark the mounting area. Composite components must be mounted on the same level. It is better to mark the right places with a thick marker. To make the designations more accurate, you must first determine the level of location (using building level) and draw a straight horizontal line along it. Then - mark the centers of the outlets, not forgetting to take into account the distance between them. It is more convenient to mark the middle of the first socket block, and then set aside half the width of the lining on the socket box from it. The second way is to attach an overlay to the first marked middle and, focusing on its width, measure the second middle.
3. Think about security measures. The risk of fire increases if the socket and associated devices are not properly selected.

It is advisable to carry out installation where a single one was previously located. This is necessary to avoid difficulties with cabling. Installation is best done before finishing work.

Rules for connecting an outlet

The best option in the case of using three sockets is a parallel type of circuit.

The wires are connected to the socket clamps and fixed either with terminals or with screws. Then they are twisted inside the box and mounted in the middle of the socket area. After mounting the middle, decorative overlays are installed.

It is worth noting that there are types of devices that are connected in series via a loop. It is impossible to use such instances to power three electrical devices at a time, especially with increased energy consumption. This puts too much load on the network. Therefore, the loop method in the case of installing electrical outlets of such structures is prohibited. In such circumstances, everything is done according to the scheme indicated in the instructions.

Wire cord routing

This step of mounting a triple socket includes the following steps. First lay the cable:

• The wires are connected based on the parallel circuit. The latter assumes that two additional ones can be connected to each, stretching from the veins. They are brought to the second and third socket modules. Have to take indicator screwdriver and use it to find the phase and zero.
• Turn off the power at the switchboard.
• Wire cords are twisted using contact tips designed for this purpose. The latter are inserted into the socket clamps and screwed on. After completing the initial twist, the wire cord is brought to the second outlet. It is passed through an armhole in the rear panel of the socket. The same is repeated with the third hole.

Now we install ready-made sockets.

Some without cable wire. It is pulled into the box after the fixing solution has dried. The reason - in some circumstances, the cable can bring down the socket block from the desired level. Correct option No - you should do what is more convenient.

Installation of socket boxes

The most rational installation way is a triple socket in one socket. The latter is a block with three nests on a common frame. The installation of a composite housing of three sockets and a whole module (triple at once) are identical.

Tools required for installation:

• puncher or drill (depending on the material of the walls - concrete or brick, respectively);
• special nozzle (crown with special incisors and a radius of 35 mm);
• hammer with chisel;
• screwdriver
• spatula (preferably two - narrow and medium).

Stages of work:

• Drill a hole. Take a puncher (drill) and a crown. The drill bit of the tool is pressed against the indicated centers and the bottom of the nozzle is drilled all the way into the wall. Concrete residues (when the hole is ready) are recommended to be broken with a chisel (built into a puncher or hammer).
• Make a strobe. This is a cable entry hole. Holes should be punched on the rear panel of the socket. Their number is similar to the number of cable cords (that is, three). Another strobe is needed for the power cable. The diameter depends on the latter.
• Make holes for wires. They are made between two cable holes. It is necessary that the diameter of the drill matches the diameter of the corrugation where the wiring will be inserted. You can resort to a corrugated pipe, but this is not necessary.
• Fix the socket in the wall. To do this, the box is fixed with alabaster (it holds better and dries faster). The mixture covers the inner walls of the opening. Then a block is placed there and held there for a little time (for a strong fixation). It is important to take care of the amount of the mixture, otherwise it will seep out or will weakly hold the socket. The consistency should not be too thick or runny. Absolute drying of the mixture will take from 1 to 2 hours.

Safety

When installing a triple socket, the following precautions should be taken into account:

• Before connecting a triple socket, as well as before any other electrical installation activities, turn off the electricity. It is also worth making sure that the power supply is broken.
• During the process, only specialized tools are used, the handles of which are insulated.
• If the electrical wire is long, cut it to the required length or carefully lay it in the wall.
• If the wire is too short, it can be extended. In this case, the contacts are soldered. Just twisting is wrong. This may cause a fire.
• When directly mounting the socket into the wall, it is worth controlling the tightness of the block and the degree of insulation.
• All wires and devices must comply with the rated and current strength. Otherwise, a short circuit may occur.