Light bulb socket. How to connect a socket from a switch yourself Connecting to a junction box

Always before starting repair work in the room to transfer the switching points of the lamps, it is necessary to think over in advance the places for their installation. Work on the installation of switches and sockets must be accompanied by compliance with the rules safe work. If the room was in operation, it must be de-energized, the installation of wires should be carried out according to the approved scheme.

The solution to many issues in the repaired room is to connect a switching device (switch) of a chandelier or other electrical device from the socket. During the repair process, this method will help save on wires, on the time it takes to complete the work, there is no need to make additional strobes.

Mounting Features

When carrying out repair work in the room to install additional lighting in order to save labor load (no need to perform wall strobe), you need to know that for laying wires there are lighting device switching circuits that answer the question of how to connect a switch from a socket, but also in In this case, all works have their subtleties.

During the repair process, two-core or three-core electric wires, in which there is a phase along one core, zero on the other, if there are three cores, then grounding is also on the third.

What material and tools are needed to carry out the work?

To carry out work on installing additional lighting in the room, you must have the following tools and consumables:

a device with which you can de-energize an electrical circuit;
electrical wiring of the same section and design (aluminum or copper core), which is located throughout the room, house or apartment;
junction boxes in which we make the connection;
a screwdriver with an indicator, shows the presence of a phase or its absence;
pliers and side cutters, with which the connection will be made;
electrical tape to cover the surface of the twists;
fasteners and material for work on wooden surface(corrugation or metal strip);
for mounting switches - socket boxes;
if necessary, a strobe will need a puncher.

Set of tools

In addition to preparing the tool and the material needed for the work, it is necessary to initially draw a diagram of the electrical connection of the switch and determine the place where it will stand, as well as calculate the cross section of the conductors for additional load.

How to choose electrical wires?

You need to know how much power the lamp connected through the switch will be. Using the formula: power \u003d current × voltage, you can find the value of the rated current, in a single-phase network, the voltage is considered to be 220 volts.
Knowing the value of the rated current, according to the table, you can select the wire of the desired section.

How to choose the right switch?

In order to choose the right switch, you need to understand that its design includes a current collector and a circuit breaker. The industry offers the following types of such devices:

All enabling devices have same principle connections electrical conductors, but may have various mounts contact with them, some products require a special tool or a Phillips screwdriver.

Scheme for switching on a circuit breaking device through a socket

In order to connect the switch using a socket, apply standard scheme inclusions. Important! The phase conductor always breaks in the breaker, and zero goes directly to the light source:

A junction box is installed, into which wires are brought from the existing outlet (you must first de-energize the room), the wires going to the switch, and the wire from the lamp.
We connect one core from the source of electricity consumption to zero, the phase must be put on the switch; if it goes through a junction box, then it is connected to the core from the switch.

In the presented scheme, the phase the wire goes from the light bulb directly to the breaker, when it is in the “on” position, electricity is consumed, when in the “off” position, the load does not receive electricity.

How to choose the wire size?

Often electrical connection the source of energy consumption, for example, a sconce from an outlet, occurs to install additional lighting, in our case it can be one or more sconces, for this reason the current is low and it is possible to choose the wires of the desired section, but there are nuances:

according to safety requirements and PUE, for these purposes it is impossible to use a wire with a copper core section of less than one square millimeter;
and a wire with an aluminum core of at least two and a half square millimeters.

When choosing a wire, it is necessary to take into account how it is laid, so there are certain conditions for open laying:

for a copper core wire, the minimum cross section is 1.5 square millimeters;
the minimum value of the aluminum core is 4.0 square millimeters.

For laying wires outer wall the house or building has the following requirements:

for wires with copper conductors - 2.5 square millimeters;
for aluminum wire conductors - 4.0 square millimeters.

How to independently connect the light source from the switch?

One of simple ways, according to experts, is the inclusion of a wall lamp in the circuit through a switch powered by a socket using a neutral and phase wire, it is especially beneficial to do this when the lamp is located close to the switch.

To make this work, you need to do the following:

Spend installation work to install the light source and switch, then carry out the steps to connect them.
From the outlet from which we will connect our voltage breaker, we remove the voltage using the machine in the shield (usually the wiring is carried out according to consumption groups), we check with a “probe” for the absence of a phase.

We open the socket; if the work on its connection is performed with a copper wire with a color difference, then:

zero - blue wire;
grounding - the second wire with double color(yellow-green);
phase - the third wire, it can be brown.

If there is no color difference and the connection is successful aluminum wire, it is necessary to briefly apply voltage to the outlet and determine the phase of the wire conducting electricity with a “probe”.

We connect the wire from the switch to the socket phase (to its input), which is already connected to the breaker, and to the output from the switch.
When you do not know how, the solution is the same, but from the output of the electrical circuit interruption device, each phase wire goes to its own light source, or to chandeliers on their own electricity consumption light bulbs.
We connect to the zero core of the socket neutral wire switch to the light bulb, if the socket has a ground wire, we connect it to the ground wire from the light source.
After that, the wiring is laid and all connections are insulated, as well as a test assembled circuit.

How to connect a socket-switch, which is assembled in a single housing?

When there is a socket in the bedroom or in another area of the room, and you want to install a wall lamp or a floor lamp, you can use the socket-switch device, which is assembled in a single housing, this is done as follows:

the socket has a regular connection, phase and zero; in new buildings, euro sockets are connected with a ground wire;
we supply the phase to the input of the interrupter (switch), and from its output the wire goes to the lamp;
two other wires (this is the neutral wire and ground) we make the connection directly to the lamp.

Understand what can't be done reverse connection, in other words, connect the outlet from the switch, it can only receive electricity from the machine in the shield of the house or apartment.

Conclusion

All wiring diagrams of the circuit interrupter (switch) do not have difficult decision, but rules must be followed electrical safety. Experts recommend planning and carrying out all work in stages, after completing the installation work, you can check the correctness of the assembled circuit, then apply voltage and check the circuit in operation.

How to "power" the car radio from a computer power supply?

The main topic has already been voiced in the title, so let's get straight to the point. So what do we need? First, a working car stereo or car CD/MP3 receiver. I had a Panasonic CQ-DFX883N car CD/MP3 receiver in my hands.

Secondly, an AT or ATX format computer power supply. Now there is a lot of computer hardware from old PCs, including power supplies.

Where can I find it for free or for minimal money?

Pull out of your old PC, which is gathering dust in the closet;

Buy for a penny at the "flea market" - there are 100% of these on any radio market;

Repair and bring to mind a faulty computer PSU.

For my idea, I bought a "second-hand" power supply just at the "flea market".

Before connecting a computer PSU to a car radio, you need to check it and, if necessary, bring it to working condition. More on this later, but for now, how to connect the car radio to a computer power supply.

Connecting the car radio to a computer power supply.

At computer block power supply (PSU) there is a healthy harness with output connectors. Black wires are a negative or common wire. On yellow voltage + 12V is applied. We will not need the remaining wires - we will not use them. So we need to take only 12V from the power supply. To do this, take any of the connectors MOLEX or floppy connector. Next, we bite off the yellow wire (+ 12V) from it and the black wire - negative. Then we connect these wires to the power wires of the car radio.

It is worth noting that the +12V output channel is quite powerful and can “deliver” a current of 8-10 amperes to the load (with a PSU power of 200 - 300 W), which, in fact, is what we need. Typically, the maximum current drawn by a car CD/MP3 receiver is 10-15 amps. But this is the maximum!

In addition, you need to carry out a slight revision if you have an ATX format power supply. I'll talk about this a little later.

The car radio has 3 wires to which the power supply (voltage + 12V) is connected from the car's standard electrical network. The black wire is a minus (in other words, a common wire, "ground", Ground). The yellow wire is +12V (marked as Battery). These are the main wires for connecting power to the car radio.

But even if you connect these wires to a battery or power supply, we will not turn on the car radio - it will be in standby ("sleep") mode.

Therefore, we are looking for a red wire (marked ACC) at the car radio and twist it together with yellow wire+12V.

How to make a cordless screwdriver from a cordless screwdriver

Regularly, the red wire is connected to the ignition switch of the car.

As soon as the driver closes the electrical circuit with the ignition key, the car radio automatically switches from sleep mode to working mode - the backlight of the car radio display turns on. In this case, the red wire through the ignition switch is shorted to plus + 12V. We do this by forcibly connecting the yellow (+ 12V) and red wires.

In this case, the car radio will turn on immediately when power is applied.

The difference between AT and ATX computer power supplies.

AT format computer units do not have a standby power supply +5 (Standby) and output voltages of 3.3V. Therefore, when such a unit is turned on, voltage appears immediately at its outputs + 12V, + 5V, -12V, -5V.

ATX format power supplies have a standby power supply on +5V SB (Standby). It always works as long as the power supply is connected to the 220V network. In order for voltages +12V, -12V, +5V, -5V, +3.3V to appear on the output channels, you need to close the main output connector green and the black the wire.

If you want the output voltages to appear immediately after the PSU is turned on, then you can install a jumper between the green ( Power ON) and black wire. In this case, the power supply will exit the "sleep" mode immediately after applying 220V mains voltage to it.

Restoration of a computer power supply.

First, try to turn on the power supply. In most cases, used (used or "used") power supplies from a PC, as a rule, are working, but have some defects (lack of some output voltages, low voltage on one of the channels +12, -12, +5, -5 volts, etc.). Even if the power supply starts up - at the same time the fan starts to turn - it is worth opening the case of the power supply, removing all the dust from it, unscrewing printed circuit board and inspect the contacts for leaks. If necessary, correct defects.

Before carrying out any work, it is necessary to disconnect the power supply from the 220V network. Also, after that, it does not hurt to forcibly discharge the high-voltage electrolytic capacitors of the input rectifier (220-470 uF. * 250V). This can be done by connecting a 100-200 kΩ resistor for a few seconds in parallel with the capacitor contacts. Naturally, you should not hold the resistor with your fingers - otherwise you can get a slight electric shock.

This operation is necessary because residual the electric charge of capacitors is dangerous (in operating mode they are 200V!).

If you accidentally touch the terminals of the capacitors, you can get a slight electric shock. The phenomenon is very unpleasant.

Particular attention should be paid to the state of the electrolytic capacitors of the output rectifiers. If they are swollen, have a serif gap, then they need to be replaced with new ones.

More details about the design of AT format computer power supplies are described here.

To make the power supply look more solid, you can paint it with aerosol spray paint (sold at any auto parts store).

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How to connect a light bulb and a switch?

You don't have to be a jack-of-all-trades to hook up a light bulb and a switch. Whether it's a light bulb and a switch in your apartment or the so-called "carry" for the garage, the only difference is that for "carrying" you do not need to lay the wiring along the walls and ceiling and it is connected with a plug to the outlet.

markup

Popular wisdom says for good reason that you need to cut only when you have measured 7 times. Therefore, treat the markup with due attention, it is at this moment that you are mentally doing the work, which after that will only have to be brought to life.

We make notes in those places where there will be a light bulb and a switch. It should be noted that the switch is usually placed near the door at a height of 80-90 cm from the floor, that is, at the height of a freely lowered hand. But you should not take everything literally, if in your corridor all the switches are set to a height of 1.7 meters, then yours at 0.8 will clearly fall out of the picture.

Make sure that when you open the door, it does not block the switch, it will not be convenient to use it. Also mark the routes for future wiring. The wiring must go from the switch to junction box(or socket, if you power the circuit from it) and from the light bulb to the same junction box (socket). When marking, stick to important rules: When wiring is located next to other walls and ceilings, indent from them about 20 centimeters. Make sure that the wires are located only horizontally and vertically, so that they bend at a right angle. Please note that in load-bearing walls strobes should be minimum depth and sizes. You should make sure that there is no old wiring in it, read how to detect it.

Shredding (if needed)

Then comes the nasty process of shredding. So that your interior is not spoiled by the wires laid over the wallpaper in the future, they can be hidden in the walls, having previously made special recesses in the latter - strobes. I will not delve into this topic, because. in the article I want to focus on the electrical part of the issue. I will only note that in your case the walls can be either from different materials(concrete or drywall), and the switch can be internal, which must be deepened into the wall, or a consignment note. All this will directly affect the volume and method of gating. Without proper experience and tools, it is better to lay the cable over the walls, securing it with plastic brackets.

Wiring

Now we need a two-wire wire, which we lay in the grooves made in advance. It will be easiest to fix them there with a diluted solution of alabaster.

It should be remembered that this binder seizes very quickly, so you will have to act quickly. We cut off the wires with a margin, we will always have time to shorten them!

Cartridge and switch

When the wiring process is over, the switch itself and the cartridge should be connected. It will not be difficult, just remove five centimeters of primary insulation and strip the cores themselves by about a centimeter. Then place them in the connectors specially provided on the switch and the base, and squeeze with a screwdriver. There are only two contacts in the switch for one light bulb, so you can’t go wrong. When connecting the cartridge, the polarity does not matter, i.e. it doesn’t matter where you throw the phase, and where zero is, the light bulb will work. However, safety requires that the phase be on the central contact of the light bulb, and zero on the threaded one.

Wiring diagram

Connection to junction box

Now the most exciting process begins - connecting your wiring to the junction box. If you know where the source is electric current to which you can connect, then this is already good, otherwise the search for a junction box may be delayed.

To connect wiring directly to electrical panel through an additional machine, use the instructions for installing the machine in the shield and connect the cable to it. By the way, you can also power the circuit from the nearest outlet, this is not prohibited. If you planned to make a “carry”, then, of course, everything is decided by connecting the plug to the end of the wire.

To get started, using indicator screwdriver define power wire(phase) and zero in the junction box or outlet. If you have never held an indicator screwdriver in your hands, then here is an article on how to use it. Was your electrician decent? Then the colors of the wires must match: brown or white - phase, and blue - zero. Old wiring, of course, does not contain colored wires and can look like anything. In this case, you will have to be guided only by the indications of the indicator screwdriver. If you do not have a special tolerance group (and most likely you do not, otherwise you would not be reading this article), it is strictly forbidden to work under open voltage! Therefore, you should unscrew the plugs, turn off the machines, and use the same indicator to make sure that the power wire is de-energized.

We power the switch through the phase, that is, we connect the power wire to the white or brown wire that comes from the switch, and connect zero to the blue wire that comes from the light bulb as in the diagram. The remaining white and blue wires that go, respectively, to the light bulb and the switch are interconnected.

Radio communication

We carefully isolate all twists with electrical tape. If you want to expand your circuit by connecting an additional light bulb or, for example, adding an outlet, you can use a double or triple switch, here is how to do it.

twist aluminum and copper wires it is forbidden! This is an extremely unstable compound that quickly oxidizes and can not only fail, but also ignite. To connect such wires, use special terminal blocks. In the electrical store, they are presented in a wide range. According to the rules good manners and for safety reasons, try to use blocks instead of twisting wires everywhere.

If you did everything right, you can be proud of your work. If not ... well, finally call an electrician.

I really hope that the article will be useful for you and you will succeed. Perhaps I forgot to say something important that seems self-evident to me and completely incomprehensible to you. Therefore, I will wait for your comments below and will be happy to answer questions, supplement and correct the article if necessary. Thank you for your attention!

The lack of a nearby outlet is not the most pressing issue in modern life, but such issues have to be addressed. There are many premises and places of household purpose where there are no power outlets. Electricity is provided, light bulbs are in cartridges, there are switches on the walls, but sockets are not installed. In the vast majority of cases, this is the right and justified decision. However, periodically in these places the need for sockets arises. The most common case is repair work. An appropriately modified faulty safety plug - an automatic machine used in piping an in-house electric meter - will help solve the problem. It is possible to make a kind of adapter from it.

However, for such a case, you can buy new cork, come in handy more than once and the costs will be justified a hundredfold. Only one screw is unscrewed from the cork body of the machine, and it is divided into two halves.

A couple more screws are unscrewed, and it becomes possible to completely remove the internal contents of the product.

As a result, only two contacts remain. One is central (clearly visible), the second is lateral (visible at the top left).

A short (and possibly long, if necessary) segment of the network wire is screwed to them, the junction is then well soldered. A stopper is placed four to five centimeters from the soldered end, which will prevent the connection from breaking due to the inevitable tension of the wire during operation.

We pass the free end of the wire into the existing hole in the second half of the case and assemble it. Both halves are fixed with a screw.

We put a socket on the other end of the wire. A tee is better, a single socket is not enough, as a rule, in addition to, for example, an electric drill, a light bulb is also connected - carrying. Everything is assembled, but it will not work yet to use this adapter. The fact is that structurally it is deliberately made in such a way that you cannot screw it into the socket of an electric light bulb - the central contact protrudes too far forward

We saw off it by two thirds and round off the sharp edges with a file.

It is also necessary to thoroughly grind off the plastic rim that goes behind the central contact, which in its original state does not allow the side contacts to “meet” each other. Turned, it began to coolly resemble the base of a light bulb.

Assembled control network from a standard cartridge, a manufactured adapter and light bulb reliably showed the full performance of the manufactured device.

The adapter is in working order. Using it, installed on entrance doors new entrance return spring. I didn’t fuss with sending an extension cord from my apartment on the floor above, I also didn’t have to ask for anything and didn’t have to explain anything to those living on the first floor. Everything, about everything, took fifteen to twenty minutes. And the adapter in the household will still come in handy more than once, albeit rarely, but “accurately”.

Electrical wiring of any room, whether it is a huge Vacation home or a small outbuilding (basement, garage, country house), includes the main three elements - a switch, a socket and a light bulb. As long as they remain relevant always and everywhere. When repairing, building or redevelopment, you will definitely encounter them. Therefore, elementary knowledge of electrical engineering will not be superfluous - what is the connection diagram of the switch and socket, how does it work and what materials and tools will be required for its installation?

Below are the detailed step by step instructions, under the guidance of which the installation of sockets and switches with their own hands will be possible even for a not very experienced electrician.

What is needed to switch the circuit?

Electrical wiring can be open and hidden. In this article, we will consider the connection of sockets and switches, made according to the second option, when all electrical switching is hidden under a layer of plaster. Hidden execution is the most common type of wiring, open wiring is usually used as a temporary option.

Wall preparation

Before you connect the socket and switch in the room, you need to prepare holes in the wall for their installation and strobes in which the wires will be laid. There should be three holes in total - for the junction box and for the connected switching devices.

It is better to draw an approximate drawing on a piece of paper in advance, where exactly you plan to connect the switch and socket, and along which route the wires will be laid to these places.

The hole for the junction box is made, as a rule, under the ceiling, 10-15 cm lower. The holes for the switching devices are made at the place of their planned installation. It is better to mount the socket at a distance of 30 cm from the clean floor, where it will be connected to Appliances. It is advisable to install the switch at the entrance to the room at the level of the lowered hand of an adult - about 90 cm from the finished floor. These works are carried out with an electric drill with a special crown for brick or concrete, a perforator with drill bit, impact drill or grinder angle grinder.

When installing strobes, consider a few important rules:

They can only be horizontal or vertical, no tilt is allowed.
The entire path of the strobe from the junction box to the installation sites of the socket and switch must pass with a minimum number of turns.
Vertical strobes should not be brought closer to window and doorways less than 10 cm, and gas pipes- less than 40 cm.

For mounting the strobe, you can use a hammer and a chisel, a puncher, a grinder or special tool wall chaser.

When all the holes and strobes are ready, carefully clean them of dust with a vacuum cleaner.

Installation elements and tool

To perform the electrical part of the work, you will need the following materials and tools:

distribution (junction) box, in which all wires are connected;
two plastic or polypropylene mounting boxes(sockets), they are needed in order to securely fix the switching devices in the wall holes;
socket indoor installation;
indoor switch with one key;
lighting device;
a set of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips);
knife or stripper for stripping insulation from cores;
pliers with insulated handles;
clamps or electrical tape;
indicator screwdriver.

To switch the entire electrical circuit, you still need a two-wire wire. Now in electrical stores there is a huge assortment of wire and cable, so take one right away so that each core has its own color insulation, for example, red and blue. This will make it easier to switch the circuit, you won’t have to look for phase and zero with devices, you just need to connect wires of the same color.

In order to fix the wires laid in the strobes, you will also need alabaster and a spatula.

Wiring diagram

The electrical circuit is a parallel connection to the power source of a lighting fixture with a light bulb, a switch and a socket.

Preparatory work

Before starting any electrical work, secure your work area. Turn off the introductory machine to the apartment. Well, if it is already at the entrance to the apartment, that is, you will be sure that by turning it off, no one will be able to turn the machine back on. In case when automatic device is located landing in common shield, turn off the machine in your apartment and hang a poster "Do not turn on!" or put someone to control. You can't joke with electricity!

After turning off the machine, you must once again make sure that there is no voltage, now with the help of an indicator screwdriver. To begin with, check its working condition in a section that is obviously energized, for example, at the entrance to the machine. The indicator lights up after touching the phase, which means it is in good condition. Now touch indicator screwdriver to the cores of the supply wire, which is brought into the apartment from the machine, there should be no glow. So the stress is off and you can get to work.

Lay the wires in the strobes made, leading them to the wall holes. At the same time, leave the ends 10-15 cm for cutting the cores, do not regret it, it is better to make a slightly larger margin than to suffer later when connecting and connecting. Install the junction box and socket boxes in the holes, use gypsum or alabaster to securely fix them.

Electric installation work

Run a two-core cable from the mains (phase and zero) into the junction box. Three wires should be laid from the box: one to the switch, the second to the lamp, the third to the socket.

For a wire whose cores have a different color version of the insulation, the red color indicates the phase, Blue colour- zero.

The switch has an input and output contact, a phase conductor is connected at the input. Connect the second core to the output contact of the switch.

A two-wire wire must also be laid to the lamp. There are two contacts in the lamp socket. The central spring contact (phase) serves to directly supply voltage to the light bulb. The side contact in the cartridge is zero, the lamp will come into contact with it after screwing it in with its base.

Another two-wire wire is laid from the junction box to the outlet. This switching device has a contact part, consisting of two terminals, to which phase and zero are connected.

The connection diagram of the switch, lamp and socket in the junction box is as follows:

Connect the neutral conductor from the supply wire to the zero conductors going to the lamp and the socket.
Connect the phase conductor from the supply wire to the phase conductors going to the switch and socket.
Connect the remaining wire from the output contact of the switch to the phase wire of the lamp.

All connections must be made as firmly as possible to ensure reliable contact. This can be done in the old-fashioned way - by twisting, which is still desirable to solder from above. There are also more modern devices: special pads (in which the wire is clamped under the screw) or PPE (connecting insulating clamps).

For more information about connecting wires in a junction box, see this video:

Checking the scheme and completing the work

Dissolve all twists in different sides so that they do not touch each other and check the operation of the assembled circuit. Turn on the introductory machine to the apartment, thereby supplying voltage from the power source to the newly mounted junction box. The switch is in the “off” position, the lamp is off, which means that everything is correct, the phase is open. Now press the switch key to the “on” position, the electrical circuit closes and voltage is already supplied from the power source to the lamp through it, the light bulb lights up. The voltage will be constantly present at the outlet, you can check its operation by connecting any household appliance. Insert the plug of a hair dryer, radio or electric kettle into the socket and check its operation.

Now turn off the introductory machine again and securely insulate the places of twists with electrical tape, you can still put PVC tubes on top. Carefully lay all the connected wires in the box so that it then closes with a lid.

It remains only to securely place the switch and the socket in the sockets, fix it, put on the protective covers on top. The junction box is also closed with a lid, for any repair work never hide it under wallpaper or plaster. Remember, the junction box must always be accessible, no matter how spoiled it is. general form your room.

Very important! Before connecting the switch, make sure that you connect exactly the phase conductor to its input contact, do not confuse it with zero. The switching device must only work on a phase break. Otherwise, there will always be voltage present in the lamp socket, even when the switch is in the off position. And this causes the danger of getting under voltage during an elementary replacement of a burned-out light bulb.

Also keep in mind that if the lighting fixture and the socket are structurally grounded, then a three-wire wire will be needed for their electrical circuit. The same wire three cores must also come to the junction box from the power source. The ground wire is usually marked green or yellow, in the same way, in the box it will be necessary to connect three protective ground wires into one twist - from the power source, socket and lamp.

Other scheme options

Similarly, you can connect an outlet from one power source, two-gang switch and two groups lighting fixtures. In this case, two wires from two output contacts of the switch and two phase conductors from lamps will come to the junction box. The same as in the example described above, only there will be one more twist in the box.

If you need to install a three-gang switch and three groups of lamps, respectively, three wires from the three output contacts of the switch and three phase conductors from the lighting devices will come to the junction box. In total, there will be 5 twists in the box:

Zero supply network with zero conductors of the socket and lamp.
Mains phase with phase conductors of the socket and switch.
And three twists phase wires extending from each key of the switch and a group of lamps.

In case of protective earth add another twist. Sometimes it can be quite problematic to lay twisted wires in a junction box. Now on the market for electrical goods, you can choose options specially designed for placement in them. a large number wires and cables.

This is how it is easy to connect a socket and a switch from one junction box. The main thing is to try to understand this very simple scheme. And then all further electrical circuits will be clear to you. As a result, you will get a pretty decent cost savings on calling a professional electrician.

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