How to make a homemade sawdust boiler. Advantages of a do-it-yourself long-burning stove that runs on sawdust German stove for heating a house on sawdust
With rising energy prices, more and more people are looking to get the best possible more energy from sources previously considered junk. At the same time, used oil, household waste, old car tires are considered as fuel.
Today we will talk about how to arrange a sawdust stove inexpensively and with our own hands, and this will be a unit that works on the principle long burning.
After all, it will not be a secret for anyone that in our country there are regions where wood chips and sawdust can be used for heating almost for nothing, except for the cost of their delivery.
There are long burning stoves with connected water and air circuits. Thanks to this, the sawdust stove allows you to heat a fairly large area.
In the article on heating stoves for greenhouses, we have already considered a do-it-yourself version of a sawdust stove, but this version of the stove is able to heat a relatively small area, and this is due not to the lack of a water or air circuit, but to a small area using hot gases.
The figure shows the drawings of this furnace.
Sawdust stove from a 200 liter barrel
As can be seen, at full load, the thermal area of the furnace is about 1/3 total area . In the figure, this area is highlighted with red shading.
With this arrangement, there is a loss of thermal energy leaving through the chimney. Of course, you can try to get as much heat as possible by increasing the length of the chimney through the heated room. But this is not entirely rational, and in some cases it is simply impossible due to design features premises and areas.
This stove on long-burning sawdust is good for its simplicity, because according to by and large You can make it within a few hours from improvised materials.
Problem solving - loop device
But today we are interested in a long-burning sawdust stove, which can be used to heat rooms as large as possible.
Of course, it will be necessary to install a water or air circuit, but first let's solve the question: is it possible to increase the thermal area in a furnace of this type without increasing the length of the chimney?
The first shows a long-burning furnace with an external smoke circuit. The device completely repeats the previously presented sawdust stove. The only change consists of a circuit through which hot flue gases pass, and the lower location of the chimney.
The first shows a furnace with an external smoke circuit. The device completely repeats the previously presented oven. The only change is in the circuit through which the hot flue gases pass and the bottom position of the chimney.
As you can see, the changes made it possible to significantly increase the thermal area of the long-burning furnace without increasing the length. chimney. The volume of the furnace remained unchanged.
As you can see, the changes made it possible to significantly increase the thermal area of the furnace without increasing the length of the chimney. The volume of the furnace remained unchanged.
In the second case, the internal circuit is arranged inside the existing furnace. The thermal area also increased. The only drawback of this installation is the reduction in the loading volume of sawdust.
But there is an advantage: it will not be difficult to arrange such a circuit, the only thing that is required is installation inside a 200-liter barrel smaller diameter and rearrangement of the chimney.
As you can see, a slight refinement will significantly increase the efficiency of using such a seemingly simple furnace.
New system on old principles
But that's not all. A homemade sawdust stove allows you to create even more efficient designs.
The picture shows a long-burning boiler with the ability to connect to a water heating system. Remarkably, the boiler can be made by hand, it works on sawdust, small chips and various household waste. But of course, first of all it is designed to work on sawdust.
On closer examination, our readers will notice some similarities this boiler with . But it is not so.
The pipe passing through the cover, although it is a blower, does not have the shape of a piston and is completely motionless during operation of the boiler. This picture shows a fully charged boiler. As you can see, the pipe is recessed almost completely inside; at the "Bubafoni" it would protrude significantly from the boiler.
Materials for the device
Let's look at how to make such an oven on sawdust with your own hands.
For its manufacture, without register, you will need:
- Pipe diameter 400 mm, wall thickness 10 mm. You can, of course, use a thinner wall, but then the life of the boiler will be significantly reduced.
- Blower pipe diameter 76 mm. When burned, it can always be replaced, so the wall thickness does not matter much.
- Metal for cover thickness not less than 10 mm. In this case, the cover must be reinforced at the edges. Otherwise, it will lead from high temperature.
- Chimney pipe diameter 100 mm.
Internal stuffing
How is this boiler arranged?
The figure shows that the boiler consists of three parts:
- Boiler with register and chimney.
- Boiler covers.
- Pipes blew.
In this position, the boiler is before loading the fuel.
We build a boiler on sawdust
How to make such a boiler yourself?
A plug is welded to a pipe with a diameter of 400 mm on one side. This will be the bottom of the boiler. The height of the boiler depends on your needs. Calculate in such a way that during normal operation one bag of sawdust is enough for 8-10 hours.
Our advice: a 1500 mm high boiler with a full charge can work up to 40 hours without recharging.
- A cover is cut out of metal 10 mm thick.
- The picture above shows that it is made in the form of a polygon, this is not important, it's just that it's much easier to cut thick metal if you use a guillotine.
- Exactly in the middle of the cover, it is necessary to cut a hole of such a diameter that a pipe with a diameter of 76 mm can be freely inserted into it. The gap should not be too large.
Our advice! Cut in thick metal perfectly smooth hole quite difficult at home. Therefore, on lathe make a thick washer. It should be freely put on the 76th pipe and at the same time cover the irregularities in the opening of the cover. By electrowelding the washer to the lid, you will get a perfectly even hole into which the 76th pipe fits perfectly.
- On the side, in the upper part of the boiler body, it is necessary to weld a chimney outlet from a 100 mm pipe.
Making a blower
Basically, the boiler is ready. It remains to make a blower.
The figure shows how it is arranged.
- A piece with a length equal to the height of the boiler is cut from a pipe with a diameter of 76 mm.
- In the lower part, 3 or 4 pieces of reinforcement or a steel bar are welded in such a way that the blower increases in length by 100-150 mm. This is just the distance that it rises above the lid.
- Via grinder holes 100 mm long and 5-7 mm thick are cut in the blower. The quantity directly depends on the diameter of the body pipe and its height. They are located on 1/3 of the blower.
How to load fuel correctly?
The picture shows an empty firebox. How does the stove work and how to use it?
Unlike, for example, "bubafoni", the blower pipe is inserted immediately into the firebox with the pins down. They should rest against the bottom, while the blower is located in the center.
Fuel Loaded - Start
- You can ignite the fuel.
- You can set it on fire without the lid installed, but it’s better to install the lid right away, and splash some mining with kerosene or gasoline into the blower, 50 g is enough.
Our advice: to adjust the draft on the blower, you can install a damper in the chimney.
- After the fuel ignites, it is necessary to cover the damper by ¾ of the hole.
- After 2-3 minutes, the damper should be slightly opened and adjust the desired air supply.
- When the oven comes into operation, you can hear a steady buzz. With the help of the damper, the operating mode of the furnace is regulated.
We install the register for the coolant
Now you can think about connecting the boiler to the heating system. To do this, you will need to install a register at the outlet of the chimney boiler.
The figure clearly shows the installed register with the connected supply and return connected to the central heating system. This is one option, you can use a completely different one. The main thing is that it should correspond to the thermal parameters of the boiler you made and fully satisfy the volume of the installed radiator heating system.
We will not dwell on the structure of the register in detail. Let's say one thing: the closer to the boiler it is installed, the more efficiently it works.
Pipelines connected to the register
Basic rules of thermal insulation
But that is not all. You can significantly increase the efficiency of the boiler if you perform its thermal insulation.
We have talked many times on our pages about the thermal conductivity of materials. The article has a video where it is accessible to talk about such an effect as thermal radiation.
Let us briefly note that during the operation of any furnace, thermal radiation is generated that freely passes through the metal. If our boiler worked without a register, it would be great, it would easily heat the room in which it is installed.
- But after all, our boiler is mainly aimed at heating the coolant passing through the register installed on the chimney.
- This means that we absolutely do not need heat losses leaving through its walls, they must be directed into the chimney.
Lossless thermal radiation
In the above article and in the video, this issue is discussed in detail. It becomes clear that lining the boiler with bricks close to its walls will create an excess of thermal radiation in the boiler furnace, which, together with the exhausted, hot gases, will rush into the chimney. What we need, and the damper installed in the chimney after the register, will allow you to well regulate the operation of the boiler and the heating of the coolant.
It is possible to overlay the cauldron and the register basalt wool, and on top make a casing of tin.
Boiler device on a permanent basis
If there are no problems with sawdust in your region, and this heating method is the most profitable, you can install this boiler more rationally and conveniently.
The figure shows the installation diagram of the boiler:
- For its device, a pit of the appropriate size was dug.
- A foundation is laid at the bottom of the pit.
- The walls of the pit must be strengthened from sprinkling.
- The boiler is installed in the pit.
- Around the boiler, inside the pit, thermal insulation is arranged.
- The lid of the boiler is thermally insulated separately so that it can be removed.
- Heat carrier pipelines are connected.
- The register is also insulated.
- The chimney is connected.
- The boiler is ready to work.
Service? No problem!
As can be seen from the figure, excellent thermal insulation of the boiler is achieved and maintenance is greatly facilitated. With a sufficiently high boiler, loading fuel is not entirely convenient, but in this embodiment it is not difficult.
- It is enough to open the lid, which is almost at floor level, and you can load fuel.
Many may have a question: how to clean the boiler? We can assure you that there will be no problems.
- During the operation of the boiler, the fuel burns completely.
- At the end, there is a small handful of ash that fits into one scoop.
- It seems that for a person who makes sawdust stoves himself, it will not be difficult to make a brush and a long-handled dustpan.
Can the boiler be installed outside?
What else is worth noting, you can install the boiler in this way generally outside the heated room. You just need to install a box on top and insulate the pipelines well. In this embodiment, the boiler will not cause any trouble at all and will not take up extra space in the room.
Having considered the issue of constructing a boiler on sawdust, assembled by oneself, it becomes clear that with certain skills and knowledge, a quite decent heating boiler can be obtained from a simple unit.
Electronics to the rescue
We submitted an idea and considered one of the options. But if you want, you can still improve this unit:
- Install the electric boiler draft control damper.
- Install temperature sensor.
- Install smart thermostat.
By connecting all this into one circuit, you can get a boiler that can successfully maintain a given temperature.
Knowledge and skills are the key to safety and success
The installation of a highly efficient register can further increase the efficiency and will completely allow even a small house to be heated with this system.
In conclusion, a few words about security. Assembling the boiler with your own hands, do all the work efficiently and accurately. This is especially true for welding and working with a grinder.
If you do not have sufficient experience in working with these types of tools, it is better to invite a friend or hire a specialist who can perform these types of work.
Remember that any stove and boiler are fire-hazardous units, the consequences of which can be catastrophic if used incorrectly.
Good luck and warmth to your home!
Small wastes resulting from the processing of various types of wood are often used as fuel. For this sawdust is pressed different ways, getting such types solid fuel like briquettes or small granules (pellets). And then they are loaded into the heating boiler. However, it is much easier and cheaper to burn sawdust without any processing, the main thing is to do it right. Here, a home-made sawdust boiler can be very useful, which will be discussed in this material.
Types of homemade boilers for burning sawdust
Everyone knows that dry wood waste quickly burns out, releasing all thermal energy for a short period of time. If the sawdust is damp, then on the contrary, they smolder and smoke for a long time, not wanting to flare up normally. In this case, only sharing them with firewood saves. To do it with high efficiency, home craftsmen - craftsmen have long come up with and implemented 2 types of heat generators:- units where the fuel burns from top to bottom;
- boiler installations of mine type.
- Use waste efficiently, getting maximum heat from them;
- Ensure complete combustion of sawdust, without residue;
- Extend the interval between furnace loads by making it as long as possible.
Wood waste burns in the firebox of a homemade boiler for a long time - from 8 to 12 hours. This criterion depends on the design features of a particular unit, which will be discussed below. The main advantage of heat sources on sawdust, made by hand, is considered affordable price. Even if you entrust all the work to the masters, paying for it at a decent level, the entire project will cost at least half as much as purchasing branded heating equipment.
Boiler on top burning sawdust
The prototype of this type of heat generators is the well-known steel furnace "Bubafonya", and the factory analogue is the products of the well-established Lithuanian brand STROPUVA. Structurally, the boiler is designed in such a way that the fuel could not “hang” in the furnace during operation, for which the combustion chamber of the unit is made round shape. The outer skin can follow the shape of the firebox, but it can also be rectangular, in which case the volume of the water jacket increases.But the whole trick is that a long-burning boiler on sawdust does not burn them. traditional way, but vice versa - from top to bottom. At the same time, the remaining fuel in the chamber is constantly pressed down by a massive load that repeats the internal configuration of the chamber and freely moves up and down along it. The load has a hole in the middle, to which a long pipe is welded, which goes out through upper part unit. Thus, air, passing through the pipe from top to bottom, enters the furnace through the hole and is distributed to the sides thanks to diffusers welded on the bottom of the load.
The key to efficient and complete combustion of wood in the boiler is the presence of good natural draft in the chimney. If it is impossible to provide one, then you will need to install a fan, as is done on some models of Lithuanian factory counterparts. When the chamber is fully loaded, the fuel gradually burns out, while the load drops lower and lower, delivering air directly to the combustion zone.
The duration of work from one bookmark is up to 12 hours, the ash residue is very small. The problem of raw sawdust is solved simply: they should be covered with firewood or laid in the lower layers, laying dry fuel on top. True, damp sawdust will still take away part of the released heat for the evaporation of moisture and during this time the efficiency of the boiler will be reduced. This law There is only one way to get around - to dry the tree in advance.
Sawdust boiler
Mine homemade sawdust boilers are more difficult to manufacture and more bulky, but they have one advantage over top combustion units. They are less demanding on the quality of the fuel, or rather, on its moisture content. On the other hand, very wet sawdust cannot be burned, as it cannot enter the chamber through the grate. The unit itself consists of two sections - a fuel bunker and a furnace with a fire-tube heat exchanger. The structure in contact with the flame and flue gases is welded from steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm, the rest of the metal is 2 mm. The unit diagram is shown in the figure:The principle of operation of the heat generator is simple: sawdust is gradually poured down into the furnace, where it burns out when air is supplied by a fan or due to the natural draft of the chimney. It turns out that the duration of burning is limited only by the volume of the bunker, and each homeowner can make it, taking into account the availability of space for installing the boiler. The completeness of combustion is also ensured by a stable air supply, and to control the operation of the unit, it is recommended to equip it with an automation kit, as shown in the video:
A do-it-yourself sawdust heating boiler can compete on equal terms with factory products in terms of work efficiency. In terms of cost and reliability, it will even win, since good master, worrying about his reputation, will make a decent supply of everything so that his offspring functions for a long time and safely.
We all know that heat goes up and cold goes down. And we all saw that the flame also usually rushes upwards. And we naturally want to start ignition from the bottom of the firewood in the firebox. We lay out a small fire made of paper, wood chips or birch bark in front of the firewood and set it on fire. If the firewood is dry, and our chip fire is sufficient, the flame from it gradually ignites the ends of our logs, and the stove starts to buzz - the ignition has taken place. Sometimes the kindling is placed from below, under the firewood.
Most of the time it's fired like this. If your firewood is old, well-dried (it has lain for a year under a shed in a woodpile or in a woodshed with blowing, you can do that. The firewood will light up in any way. And if they are not completely dry, but there is nothing more to heat? Then you need a lot of kindling, even specially dried dry logs to start the process.The torment begins with the ignition of the stove.
But there is one detail that can make life much easier for us.
If we start ignition not from below, but from above? Let's set up our kindling fire at the top of the bookmark? Indeed, in order to ignite an array of bookmarks from below, you need to warm up a fairly large array of wood. And if we spread our fire on top of the logs, then nothing will interfere with its burning. It will easily flare up and begin to warm up neighboring sections of logs, gradually including them in the combustion process. Then ignition will take place more smoothly, easily and with less kindling chips.
How to do it in practice?
We make a bookmark of firewood (how much to put in the firebox, we'll talk separately). We take out the middle upper log, and in its place in the hollow we build our kindling fire. And we set it on fire. When the logs burn from above, they are involved in the process gradually, burning more smoothly. This method is much more efficient and uses the bookmark more evenly, the efficiency of using firewood increases. Try it and see in practice that it is better this way.
Oxygen
Even for the combustion process, air is needed, or rather oxygen from the air. Without oxygen, there is no oxidation, and there is no combustion. To process hydrocarbons without oxygen, special soil microorganisms are needed. This is what happens when organics are processed in a compost heap. But there the process of heat release is slow. We need it fast. That's why we build stoves, not lay compost heaps. Although their people have learned to use to heat the room. But that's a completely different story.
Air (oxygen) is supplied through the blower door (unless you are heating a Russian stove - the air is taken in differently there). And then through the grate, the air gets to the firewood. But in order for air to flow all the time, you need the same amount of it and remove it from the hearth of the flame. Otherwise, the fire, having used up the entire supply of oxygen, will go out. What will happen if you flood the furnace, and forget to open the valve on the pipe. It happened like this: smoke poured into the room, and the kindling went out.
When a fire is burning outside, air is sucked in from below by the rise of heated gases above the flame. There is a natural attraction. And indoors we make a pipe. See the evolution of the hearth here. The heated gases go up the pipe, carrying away the products of combustion (ideally CO2 and H2O, and in practice also unburned wood in the form smoke) and create, thereby, air leakage from the bottom of the furnace. He restarts the process.
The conclusion is this: if there is not enough air, the fire goes out, if there is a lot, the process goes faster, the combustion temperature rises, our hydrocarbons burn out (oxidize to the final state of water and carbon dioxide) is more complete. The efficiency of using firewood is higher.
However, there is always an optimum - in any process there is such a combination of conditions when its effectiveness is the highest.
For our needs - space heating - a certain average state is required. Too slow burning - firewood is used inefficiently, their consumption increases, more soot is released that clogs the chimneys, more smoky gases worsen traction. Too much heat leads to overheating of the furnace, more heat flies out into the chimney.
Why is it bad to melt and heat the stove with sawdust?
Sawdust, although chopped wood, is too small and therefore quite dense in composition. There is little air between the particles. So burn the sawdust a big problem. Little by little they need to be sprinkled on burning firewood, stirred up to add air. Otherwise burns out upper layer, dense ash creates an airtight blanket and it extinguishes the underlying layers. Combustion turns into smoldering, and the fire can go out altogether. Well, pouring them into the oven is a whole torment: and littering with dangerous garbage in front of the oven is easy, and troublesome. Let's forget about them. It is better to re-layer the compost heap with them or use them in the toilet. Here they come in handy.
20.10.2011, 10:07
I tried to heat with sawdust last winter, I “liked” it very much, I had to keep the furnace door ajar all the time, and just keep it, it’s not for the faint of heart.
sawdust is different, accumulated from all sorts of crafts, from shavings to fine dust.
I threw it on hot coals, I didn’t have time to move away, a bang, the door was open, a tongue of flame a meter with something from the furnace, I close it, it repeats, there are frequent claps inside the furnace, as if there is a lack of oxygen, the fire “breaks down”, pops. opened the door, at first it puffed, then it began to burn, burn powerfully. moreover, the burning is not constant, but stepwise, then it increases, then it subsides. this is what happens when it's windy.
and if you threw sawdust, then it should be a small amount, and very thin layer, and I do not recommend moving them.
the most valuable science is its own, so as not to talk about fools
the funny thing is that today the same situation happened with claps in the stove, but with firewood, I had to make a gap in the furnace door and heat it like that. there used to be gaps around the door, the solution fell out, smeared it yesterday ...
20.10.2011, 10:29
With sawdust, this is a well-known thing.
With firewood, so as not to "clap" - you need to stack them tightly, and melt the bookmark with the top ignition.
Firewood is tightly packed so that the fire does not "fall" quickly down.
20.10.2011, 10:49
Sufficient air flow must be ensured into the furnace through the blower door. If there is no blower (ash) door, then the air supply to the furnace is done through the furnace door, which opens slightly. If there is not enough air flow, then combustible gases accumulate in the furnace, which flare up, creating cotton or can even create an explosion that can blow the furnace with bricks flying several meters around.
In classical Turkish sauna ovens hammam is heated with sawdust, they are constantly thrown into the open hearth firebox in pinches. The burning of sawdust is bright, hot and without pops.
20.10.2011, 12:30
Smirnov drowned with sawdust in the hearth:
With my options for assembling stoves, sawdust was burned - and he was burned. I saw a topic here on the forum: everyone says that it’s not possible, but this spring we heated ourselves due to the lack of firewood, and nothing warms up very well either.
They poured a bucket of sawdust into the firebox, on top of a little firewood (slats, chipped boards) to create heat. You flood, as the active phase has passed, we immediately roll up the door. Just in case - so that it doesn’t explode - after five minutes you open the door, if a small bang or gas buzzes - well, you wait a little longer, if not, roll it up and don’t look anymore. The sawdust burns out cleanly, no need to stir or follow.
Only he first had sawdust and top ignition with firewood. and throwing sawdust into a red-hot firebox - and it will be extreme: evil: they will immediately give out volatile ones!
20.10.2011, 14:11
Soon I will have to write in red letters - "Akhtung! Pokryshkin is in the sky!", Ugh, hell, not that - "Attention! Igor UA is on the forum !!!"
20.10.2011, 14:42
Openings are specially provided in the doors for hearth ovens, depending on the design, they can be adjustable or not!
And if "may not be" or "may be absent altogether"? And such deaf Soviet doors are often installed, so then you have to
Heat the stove with the door ajar
so that air enters the furnace for burning firewood or the same sawdust. :lol:
20.10.2011, 15:34
Damn! One pearl follows another. Do not believe anyone who says that in the absence of a blower door, it is necessary to heat with the furnace ajar! Openings are specially provided in the doors for hearth ovens, depending on the design, they can be adjustable or not! To heat the stove with the door open (ajar), only a moron can wash it, this is not a fireplace!
Misha-Misha, I have a question:
In a nearby building supplies store they sell cast iron doors ... and SVT too.
So there are two options for locking the door:
1.) such a type of bayonet-handle on sealed
2.) such, peg - olive, for simple
And now the question: the olive is designed so that the door can be closed completely and the door can be closed with a gap of half a centimeter ...
What for? If everything is as you say
And - on SVT
20.10.2011, 15:41
Here is a domestic old stove door with the ability to adjust the side slot for blowing air, as well as for tightly closing the firebox after the coals have completely burned out:
http://chel.barahla.net/images/photo/1/20110503/4402767/big/130445134895625500.jpg
20.10.2011, 16:28
I explain about the old door - when it is opened, there will be a second door (or there are mounting holes from it). Holes are made in the second door in the lower third in height. When firing, the first door is open. At the final stage, when the coal burns out, the door closes tightly, preventing cold air from entering the furnace. It was believed that it would be enough for the coal to burn out using the air passing through the masonry and micro-slits. This allowed the operation of the furnace without views and valves, and also somewhat increased its efficiency due to the burning out of a large amount of coal. Enough of these doors have passed through my hands.
About SVT can be the brand of the door?
If there are no holes in the purchased doors, then a drill is taken, a set of drills and they appear in a wonderful way.
This is such a common truth that even talking is inconvenient. Furnaces are not heated with open (ajar) doors! Even in round furnaces and hobs, in any seedy village, you will see homemade doors made of tin, with holes for air supply and screens reflecting heat from firewood and sparks.
Although I have seen stoves that had no doors at all. They were closed either with a sheet of iron, propped up with a poker, or a lid from a bucket, or hanging, bent, a piece of tin, or bricks placed on edge. But I would never recommend this to anyone!
20.10.2011, 16:44
there will be a second door (or there are mounting holes from it)
Not always in such doors there was a second wall, although with a second wall the door is much better, especially in a heavily loaded firebox.
If there are no holes in the purchased doors, then a drill is taken, a set of drills and they appear in a wonderful way.
Only these drills should be special (special sharpening and special brand alloy) and with a constant supply of kerosene or liquid oil to the drilling site to cool the drill, and you need to drill at low speeds. :lol: And this magical way will be very, very time consuming. :lol:
Although I have seen stoves that had no doors at all. They were closed either with a sheet of iron, propped up with a poker, or a lid from a bucket, or hanging, bent, a piece of tin, or bricks placed on edge. But I would never recommend this to anyone!
And I had to see heating furnaces with a hearth furnace, but there were no slots or holes in the cast-iron furnace door, which did not prevent such a furnace from being operated for decades with the door ajar to ensure air supply to the furnace. :lol:
Need for invention is cunning! :lol:
20.10.2011, 17:42
Here, it’s not needlework, but stove-makers and people who want to learn.
If there was no second door in the door, then this door is designed for installation in a furnace with a blower.
I drill furnace doors right on the object, with a simple drill and drills bought in a nearby shop. There are no problems with drilling even our doors, even Finnish ones!
And I know this because I constantly work with stove appliances. http://download81.files.mail.ru/SQ0N6Z/39c0941453be102572ef0a88d9f0a691/DSC05879.JPG
20.10.2011, 17:58
About SVT can be the brand of the door?
Misha-Misha, I will not give. SVT is poured there, the brand is not.
But the model is without a handle with a claw, the handle is an ordinary button, the door closes by hitting a bead (olive) by simply warping vertically in a loop. There are several beads there (like several bones in an abacus), i.e. several fixed positions, not only closed
Like this
http://www.bani-pechi.ru/thumb_b/300x300/349.jpg
20.10.2011, 19:39
I don't want to upset you, but this oven door. As you know, the only way you can regulate the temperature in the oven wood stove. You can find a similar device in our ovens. Only there is a plate with slots welded on top. It's okay, I also sometimes tap a brick with a screwdriver when I'm too lazy to crawl over a pickaxe, but there are no halves or quarters at hand: D
Zhirnov Vladimir
20.10.2011, 20:44
Michelle, I used to put this on the firebox. There were no others nearby.
Igor Sergeevich with quirks, never mind. We've known each other for a long time... :D
20.10.2011, 21:01
So I'll put one up tomorrow. only without glass. And drill holes in it. But I just explained why there is such a little thing, so that people would not be mistaken.
Let the quirks, we all have quirks, but I endured when he advised gluing the breech in the firebox to basalt cardboard, explaining that it would stand well ... But to heat with an open door ....
In general, I think that with such advice he dishonors all those present here.
It is clear that this site is free, but not to the same extent. Stove-makers communicate here, so why carry such nonsense.
For heating small spaces often use heaters or expensive stoves. But, having shown a little ingenuity and skill, it is possible to build from almost waste materials a long-burning stove operating on one of the cheapest types of fuel - sawdust. good for its simplicity. It is easy to install it in a greenhouse, heat a garage with it, country house or other premises small size. It does not require the cost of electricity or gasoline.
This environmentally friendly and most economical type of fuel can be of several types. One of them - chips and sawdust in bulk. They are easy to get from woodworking factories where they are waste or if there is a carpentry shop nearby. Briquettes and pellets are made using a special press. This process with the help of simple devices can be adjusted at home.
The next type of fuel is pellets. They are much more profitable than ordinary firewood (they burn longer, and the cost is several times lower). They are very easy to transport and store. Pellets are small capsules (about eight millimeters in diameter) made of compressed sawdust.
In addition to pellets and loose sawdust, long-burning stoves are used fuel briquettes . They are cylindrical, rectangular, six- and octahedral (Pini-Key).
Video:
Benefits of using sawdust as fuel
- Low cost of fuel;
- Ease of storage;
- Heat dissipation and burning time are higher than ordinary firewood or peat briquettes;
- Pellets do not emit soot and toxic substances during combustion;
- Combustion products remaining from the burning of sawdust - good fertilizer for garden;
- There is much less garbage from sawdust and pellets than from firewood and coal;
- Due to the fact that the sawdust is always dry, they can light the stove at any time. convenient time, while firewood sometimes requires additional drying;
- When burning fuel briquettes or sawdust, much less ash and ash is generated than when burning firewood.
Disadvantages of using sawdust
The disadvantages include dust from sawdust, which in rare cases can cause an allergic reaction, as well as the fact that sawdust can ignite spontaneously if stored improperly. However, both of these factors are extremely rare.
How to make fuel briquettes for use in a long-burning kiln
To make sawdust briquettes you will need:
- wooden beams, nails and a hammer for assembling the press;
- two metal cylinders - forms for future briquettes;
- sawdust;
- water.
Step-by-step instruction:
Another similar way to make fuel briquettes for the stove is to put together a few wooden boxes with many cells, mix sawdust with water and a small amount of clay, hammer this mixture tightly into the cells of the boxes to let the water come out. A day later, we get the fuel briquettes and use them for their intended purpose.
Do-it-yourself stove "Bubafonya" on sawdust
Since the combustion temperatures of sawdust are higher than the combustion temperatures of firewood, the walls of the fuel tank must be made thicker - at least 10 mm. And to ensure fire safety, the furnace is installed on the foundation and equipped with a reflective screen, a water circuit, or the furnace is lined with refractory bricks.
Furnace mounting material:
- thick-walled barrel with a sealed bottom (or used gas bottle) for the furnace, it is desirable to choose a volume of about two hundred liters;
- two pieces of metal pipes;
- channel;
- sheet metal;
- grinder, cleaning and cutting wheels for it;
- a hammer;
- welding machine and electrodes;
- hacksaw for metal;
- bricks and cement for the foundation.
Work must be carried out in accordance with safety regulations. In addition, it is necessary to carry out work near the source of electricity.
1. Fuel tank
If a barrel or cylinder is used, the top must be cut off. To do this, use a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. According to the markup, cut off the upper part, carefully making sure that the tool does not overheat, and the cut line is even. The remaining part can later be used as a furnace cover.
In the event that the fuel tank is made by welding from sheet metal, it is pre-bent into a radius of bending machine, then connect welding machine in the form of a cylinder. To this cylinder, a bottom of the appropriate size is cut out of a piece of sheet metal and welded to it, monitoring the quality of the weld.
The diameter of the pressing circle should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the fuel tank. This will ensure its free movement in the furnace as the fuel burns. In the center of the pressure circle, it is necessary to cut a hole equal to the diameter of the supply pipe. After that, the channel is sawn into 4 equal sections and welded to the circle. This is necessary to increase the mass of the pressure wheel and provide additional structural strength.
The length of the supply pipe is calculated as follows: measure the length of the fuel tank and add from 20 to 50 cm to this value.
The supply pipe and the pressure circle are connected by welding.
It is necessary to make a damper on the pipe, with the help of which the amount of air entering the furnace will be regulated. The simplest damper is a small metal circle with a steel bar handle for ease of use.
3. Outlet pipeline
To attach it to the firebox, markings are made on the top of the tank and a hole is cut out equal to the diameter of the outlet pipe. After that, the pipe is attached by welding. The pipe is connected to the main heating system by means of a clamp and heat-insulating material (fiberglass).
4. Lid
The lid is cut from a piece sheet metal or use the cut part of the barrel for this. A hole is cut in the center for the supply pipe and handles are welded from bent metal rods.
To protect the stove from overheating and improve heat distribution, a sheet of metal - a reflector - is welded to the outside of the fuel tank (with metal corners of small length).
The foundation is laid out from two rows of refractory bricks.
How to properly drown "Bubafonya" with sawdust
Before putting sawdust into Bubafnya, a pipe of small diameter is placed inside the combustion chamber. Sawdust is laid around this pipe, compacting them tightly.
When the sawdust is laid to the very top, the pipe is pulled out. Thus, sawdust is stacked in the furnace in such a way that the resulting combustion products will be blown down by the air flow (draught) into the shaft formed by the pipe.
The sawdust is ignited with a torch or matches, closed with a pressure disk, a lid, and the furnace is watched for several minutes, adjusting the size of the valve gap and, accordingly, the thrust and intensity of combustion.
Thus, from the cheapest materials, a long-burning furnace using biologically pure fuel with an efficiency of almost 100% is obtained. Furnace "Bubafonya" on sawdust - the most best option for economical owners.