How to make clamps from wood, plywood, metal. Handy clamps for gluing wooden boards Attachment for gluing wooden frames
Auxiliary devices for gluing wood products
The use of wood glue is mandatory for most joints used during the manufacture of various wood products. The connection should dry under force, and you can create and adjust the amount of effort using special devices. Clamps and clamps are the most common, they can be purchased ready-made or made independently. The second option, in our deep conviction, is preferable. Why? Firstly, a thing that we received “almost for free” is always much nicer for us than something bought in a store for relatively big money. Secondly, during manufacturing, you can take into account your own needs to the maximum extent, it is very difficult to find the desired option in the store.
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How to make wooden clamps
Clamps are very often used during the manufacture of individual small pieces of furniture. The advantages include ease of use and manufacture, reliability of fixation and small size. The disadvantages include the inability to work with parts that have large linear dimensions. This is especially true for clamps. industrial production, large clamps are very difficult to find, they are only available in large specialized stores. Are there such stores in big cities, many masters do not have the opportunity to often travel to the city in search of the right tools and accessories.
The way out is to make a clamp yourself, especially since this is not so difficult. For the manufacture you will need several bars or slats of wood hard rock and a minimal set of carpentry tools.
The thickness of the bar is within 30 mm, the thickness of the rails is within 10 mm. Cut out from the bar the front stop of the clamp in the form of a hammer, the clamping element and the device for attaching the screw handle. Make a ruler from a thin rail, firmly connect the front stop to the ruler in a tenon / groove, be sure to use wood glue. The other two parts should have holes in which the ruler will easily move. As a clamping device, you can use any metal bolt suitable diameter with coarse thread. The larger the thread and the longer the thread section in the screw stop, the greater the force that can be generated during clamping of the parts.
Exist great amount various kinds clamps, we settled on the most simple and very reliable. It is necessary to make other special clamps only for those specialists who are engaged in the production a large number identical products. Then you need to have special clamps for clamping corner connections on the "mustache" and ordinary ones, for clamping very small elements of wooden structures, etc. For most craftsmen, it is enough to have simple clamps, they can be used to make most carpentry joints.
How to make wyms
Vyma - a device in which it is possible to make glued joints on large areas. They are used in the manufacture of windows and doors, furniture panels and other products with large overall dimensions. Industrial clamps are quite practical, but they are not always available and for the price these devices can turn off some consumers. We will tell you how to make a wyma from metal and wood.
Simple metal wedge
You will need a corner with dimensions of at least 50 × 50 mm, a few bolts and threaded stops. A frame is made from a corner, drill holes on it symmetrically at regular intervals, stops will be fixed in these holes to regulate the length of the parts to be glued. The picture shows how to weld metal screw clamps. We used standard ones, but you can use large bolts with permanently welded nuts. To increase the stability of the rails, you need to weld the footboards, make them from scraps of a corner. The principle of operation is very simple - after installing the part to be glued using wrench bolts must be tightened. Do not forget to put gaskets between the wooden product and the metal stops.
The advantage of such a clamp is that you can clamp different sizes wooden structures. The disadvantage is the uneven clamping along the length. You need to make several pieces or use very strong and rigid gaskets in the form of metal channels or I-beams.
wooden wyma
Even more simple design, it can be made in just a few hours from lumber waste. Production material - wooden bars 50 × 80 mm, the length depends on the expected length of the glued elements. Choose the number of bars taking into account the width of the products, the distance between the bars should not be more than 20 centimeters. The figure shows the manufacturing scheme, we will only describe some of the features of using a home-made wooden rim.
There are two options for clamping the product: metal screws or wooden wedges. In order to use the first option, you need to find or separately purchase metal screws, but we do not advise you to bother. The clamp is perfectly performed with wooden wedges. To do this, you need to pre-prepare them, do not make the angle of the wedge very large during manufacture - it will be difficult to hammer it in and the risk of spontaneous loss of clamps will increase.
Insert the part into the fixture, using slats or boards of various widths, first reduce the gap between the part and the top lath of the clamp. Drive wedges into the small gap between them. If you wish, you can slightly improve the device we offer. For this, in uprights drill through holes at regular intervals, they will make it possible to automatically adjust the gap between the workpiece and the upper horizontal bar, the wedges will be easier to pick up, the fixation will be more stable. Another, the simplest, clamping method - use rubber bands and wrap them around the parts with tension.
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With this device, you can glue wooden panels different sizes. The clamp itself is easy to use and has a fairly simple design. In the presence of the right materials making such a clamp for a home workshop will not be difficult.
For the manufacture of home-made clamps (they are also called clamps), you will need a stud with M10 nuts, a 20 mm steel strip and two rectangular shaped pipes with sides of 40x20 mm, 80 cm long. These materials can be bought inexpensively at a hardware store.
Clamps for gluing shields: stages of work
On the profile pipes we make markings and drill through holes every 15 cm, using a conventional or stepped drill for this. We cut the steel strip with a grinder into segments 150 mm long. In these plates, we drill two holes of the desired diameter.
Profile pipes are connected to each other using plates. You will also need stops - movable square shape and motionless T-shape, welded from a profile with side dimensions of 20x20 mm. We screw a hairpin of a suitable length into the movable clamp.
Features of using a clamp
It is good because when gluing wooden shields clamps the workpiece from four sides in two planes. Thus, the gluing is of very high quality. By rearranging the T-shaped fixed stop, you can adjust the length. See the video on our website for the assembly process of the clamp for gluing wooden shields.
Conventional screw clamps have a disadvantage: when clamping parts, it takes a lot of time to unscrew and tighten the screw. Therefore, fast-acting clamps were created. Clamp in fig. 295, but consists of a guide ruler 1, rigidly fastened to the base 2 and the movable part 3. The screw 4 compresses the assembled parts, while the movable part 3 is held in the desired position by the friction that occurs during the compression process. In the free state, the movable part easily moves along the ruler 1.
The clamp shown in fig. 295, b, consists of a bracket 4, a movable rail 2 with a screw 1 and a fixing dog 3. The travel of the movable rail 2 is 77 mm. Screw 1 moves 33 mm, the common travel is 110 mm. Fast movement of the rail with the screw up is carried out after disengaging the pawl from the rail by pressing the pawl lever towards the rail 2. Moving the rail 2 down is possible without pressing the pawl lever 3 in this case, clicks of the pawl on the rail are heard. When clamping, rail 2 is sent to the parts to be fixed; the final compression is made by screw 1; pawl 3 stops the rail, preventing it from moving up.
Clamp for gluing boards, frames, doors and other products shown in fig. 295, c. Due to the fact that the dimensions of the parts to be glued are large, two clamps are used and they are installed side by side. The movable sponge 3 with pin 2, located on the goats 1, is preliminarily set to the required size of the pressed-in shields. The final compression is made by screw 4 with handle 5.
To keep in vertical position assembled window frame or door leaf, use special clamps.
Stand-clamp Antrushina(Fig. 296, a) consists of two hinged parts, between which there is a hole (nest) 60 mm wide, equal to the thickness of the window sash bars or door leaf. Under the weight of the window frame or door leaf, the stand in the middle bends and tightly clamps the product. If the product in the nest is not held tightly, that is, there are gaps between the product and the walls of the nest, then pieces of plywood are inserted into the gaps.
Rice. 296. Clamps: a - Antrushina, b - Kibasova
Rice. 297. Metal clamps for shields
On fig. 296, b is shown stand-clamp Kibasova. Its main part is a rack with a groove. At the bottom, the stand with the stand is fastened with a hinge and can take the desired inclined position, which is fixed with the help of an adjustable brace. The product is inserted with one side into the groove and clamped with a wedge.
Devices for compressing plots glued into shields are shown in fig. 297. The beds of the clamps should be even and smooth, and the stops should be perpendicular to the beds. For a more even distribution of pressure, auxiliary bars are applied to the edges of the shield.
For the simultaneous rallying of several shields, a device called a clamp is used. It consists of four massive beams connected vertically into a rectangular frame. When rallying shields from more or less long plots, two or three clamps are used. A massive wooden slab planed under the ruler is laid on the lower horizontal bars of the clamps. The shield assembled for rallying is laid on a slab and wedged between the ho-
muta. Transverse corrugated gaskets of the same thickness are placed on the shield, and the second assembled shield is laid on them and it is also wedged. In this way, the entire opening of the clamp is filled with cohesive shields. It is necessary to pay special attention to the compression of the lower shields so that when the middle wedges are driven in, the lower ones do not weaken.
Having filled the collar with shields to the top, compress it in the vertical direction,
driving wedges between the gasket placed on the upper shield and the upper beam of the clamp. This prevents bulging and warping of the shields.
At woodworking enterprises, for mass gluing of shields, a fan-shaped clamp of a simplified design is used (Fig. 298).
To protect the boards to be glued from bulging, they are pressed from above with planks. In one turn, the wyma makes it possible to glue twelve shields. During the time required for a full turn of the wyma, the glue has time to grab, and the shields can be removed from the wyma. In addition to the six-section clamp, twelve- and twenty-four-section clamps of the same principle of operation are used.
At large mechanized woodworking enterprises, panels are rallied in gluing-conveyor wi-mahs and shield-stitching machines.
Each carpenter uses clamps during work, securely fixing the workpieces with their help. You can make such a device yourself, and there are several options for execution.
Clamps are simple, universal and specialized. Appeared not too long ago the new kind products - quick-clamping. Such an element can compress up to 450 kg. It will be useful to study the instructions for creating do-it-yourself wood clamps.
corner option
Regardless of the type of clamp, it must firmly clamp the parts for their connection or processing. Angular carpentry fixture helps to fasten wood blanks at a certain angle (most often 90 °, but there are others). This is indispensable when assembling furniture and frames.
In order to make such a wooden clamp with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
- two wooden bars 25 mm thick hardwood;
- plywood 12 mm thick or more;
- self-tapping screws, studs;
- jigsaw or hacksaw;
- drill.
A square board with a side of 25 or 30 cm is cut out of plywood. Two bars are fixed on it at an angle of 90 °.
Important! The angle must be measured with high accuracy, since the correct fixation of the parts depends on it.
First, the bars are glued, then they are countersinked, holes are drilled with a drill and self-tapping screws or other fasteners are screwed in. Perpendiculars are drawn from the center of the bars - screw studs will pass here.
At a distance of 20 mm from the corner bars, persistent bars are fixed, maintaining a gap between them. It should be slightly larger than the width of the parts to be clamped with a homemade clamp. It is better to screw in the studs immediately, before fixing the stops. You will also need to cut out the movable pads that will be connected to the pin (when it is unscrewed, the workpiece will be pressed against the corner bar).
As a screw, it is best to take studs with a rectangular or trapezoidal thread. The thread pitch is 2 turns per cm. It is very good if on the stud on one side there is a pillar of a slightly smaller diameter than the thread. It can be used to fit the handle. On the other hand, a slightly larger diameter rear sight is desirable to fit the bearing.
So, in the simplest clamp, one end will be fixed, and the other will advance through a worm gear.
To release the workpiece, you need to move the bracket to the required distance and turn the knob a few turns. Thus, the element is fixed. After that, you can release the mechanism and the workpiece will be released.
The simplest version of this model is equipped with a rail structure. The guides, which are arranged in parallel, have cut grooves at an equal distance. Fixed stops are fixed with metal rods. They can move exactly along the width of the blanks. At the end of the beams, fixed stops should be installed, which have a worm gear. In the usual way there is a clamping with a hairpin and a furniture nut.
Self-clamping option
For gluing parts, it is better to choose the most simple model clamp, which has an F-shape. The stores sell various models, which consist not only of wood, but also of metal. The cost of such tools is high. Therefore, many craftsmen prefer to make them with their own hands.
For small operations, a cam-type clamping clamp is perfect. For example, if you need to glue small parts or fix workpieces. Such a model works in the same way as the f-shaped element. The tool includes 2 jaws and guide rails. Sponges: mobile and motionless. For reliable clamping, it is necessary to fix the workpiece well and turn the cam 90 degrees.
You can make such a tool yourself with minimum set tools and materials. Before starting, you should draw a drawing of the product. You can use any material for manufacturing, as well as change standard sizes at will.
The tire is made of wood or metal. Small bolts and rivets can be used instead of metal pins. It is recommended to make movable and fixed jaws at the same time, as they mirror each other. Their width and length can be changed to increase the grip of the product.
For gluing boards (shield)
Clamping clamps are needed to fix the plots, which, after the glue has dried, are used for furniture panels. Such products differ from simple ones in their length. In other words, they have a large jaw span. If you buy such material in a store, you will have to pay a decent amount. Therefore, craftsmen prefer to make clamping mechanisms on their own.
Materials and assembly steps
In order to make wood clips, you will need the following items:
- beech or birch bar;
- drill bit;
- pipe 2.5 cm;
- mortise nuts of suitable diameter;
- a nut that has a rounded knob (used for decoration);
- cutter with a diameter of 2.5 cm and a long hairpin.
The basis of the material is a pipe, from which a piece of the required length is cut. Depending on the size of the sponges, it is necessary to saw the bar. The pieces should be from 15 to 20 cm. For the free movement of the timber through the pipe, make a hole with a diameter of 2.5 cm at a distance of 2.5 cm from the edge. Parallel to the hole, cut from the same end. To fix the sponge on the pipe, connect the hole to the end.
For the drive nut, an additional hole must be drilled to the side of the cut. It is necessary to drive a nut into it and tighten it with reverse side bolt. To fix the sponge, clamp the pipe in the hole. To move the pipe, unscrew the bolt, then move the element and repeat all the steps again.
There are 2 jaws in the lower clamping part, it is slightly larger than the upper one and has an additional nut. In terms of structure, both parts are the same. An additional driving nut is located at the opposite end of the pipe, into which a stud with a wing nut is inserted.
In the second collapsible movable part, there are no clamping parts such as cuts and nuts. The size of such an element is also rather big. In this part, it is necessary to make a recess for the stud device.
Operating principle
The principle of operation of the clamp is very simple. It is necessary to dilute the extremely sponges so that they are at a distance of 3 cm more from each other than the width of the shield to be installed. Next, you need to fix them on the pipe. To do this, clamp the nuts that are located along the edges. The blanks must be put on the tubes and sealed with glue. Then they need to be pulled together with the help of the “lamb” rotation.
With the ability to use the grinder and welding machine you can make the same clamp for gluing wood from metal.
To maintain the plane of the plot with tubes, it is recommended to arrange the clamps in a checkerboard pattern. The main advantage of such a tool is the ease of manufacture and operation.
Special clamp designs
Having mastered the skills of making clamps of a simple form, you can improve them and make devices for connecting complex parts.
Meet homemade clamps made from wooden hanger which is cut into pieces. They combine wood and steel, make more comfortable handles that allow you to quickly tighten the screw. This is especially important if you need to change position frequently or use several clamps at the same time. In the case of complex blanks, you can first cut them out of paper, and then transfer them to plywood.
Although welded metal products are more reliable, wooden structures are also used not only for carpentry, but also for turning, carpentry. You do not need to have special skills to create a clamp. You can make such a product from wood in unlimited quantities with your own hands. It will only take a certain amount of time for the manufacturing process.
Clamps are indispensable assistant every carpenter. It is difficult to imagine a master who is able to do without these devices in his work. There are quite a few varieties of clamps and clamps, while manufacturers do not stop looking for new solutions to make their tool even more convenient, functional and adapted to specific carpentry tasks.
In our material, we will talk in detail about the main types of wood clamps: we will tell you what the various clamp models consist of and how they work, consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them, and give helpful tips how to choose a clamp for specific carpentry tasks.
G clamps
Design features. G-shaped clamps, also often referred to as C-shaped, are the most versatile and mass type of carpentry clamps. The basis of the design is a cast or forged bracket with a movable clamping screw.
Advantages. L-shaped clamps are light, easy to use, provide high clamping force, do not have gaps in the jaws.
disadvantages. Suitable for joining workpieces of small thickness.
Application area. G-shaped clamps are used in cases where it is necessary to apply the same compressive force to surfaces that are parallel to each other. AT carpentry C-clamps are mainly used when gluing wood.
F clamps
Design features. The clamp consists of a guide rail on which the movable and fixed jaws are fixed. The movable bracket, sliding along the guide, has a set screw that allows you to adjust the desired length of the grip and prevents the clamp from loosening. Sponges complete with overlays for protection of the fixed surfaces.
Advantages. The main advantage of F-shaped clamps is their versatility. The adjustable grip length makes it possible to firmly and strongly fix workpieces of various thicknesses.
disadvantages. It is not always convenient to work with an F-shaped clamp, because. You have to use both hands to manipulate the tool.
Application area. Used for fixing wooden products and blanks of various thicknesses.
End clamps
Design features. The end clamp consists of a cast or forged base-bracket with three clamping screws.
Advantages. A simple and affordable design for specific carpentry tasks: clamp with T shaped profile used for clamping edges and ends.
Disadvantages. For all its functionality, it is not so easy to cope with the end clamp: fixing the edge, simultaneously holding the clamp and tightening the three clamps is not always convenient alone.
Application area. Clamping edges and end elements of wooden products.
Angle clamps
Design features. Corner clamps can have the most different execution. Typical design consists of a body, one or two screw clamps with clamping heels.
Advantages. Simple and compact fixture for clamping workpieces at right angles. Such clamps are often supplemented with special holes for fastening to a workbench.
disadvantages. Limited opportunities when working with dimensional wooden elements.
Application area. Clamps for gluing and fixing wood at right angles. Creating connections on the mustache.
Keyless (automatic) clamps
Design features. A typical design of a quick-release clamp consists of a metal bar and two plastic jaws (movable and fixed). The moving part is pressed by means of a special lever mechanism. The lightweight and durable body of quick-clamp clamps is made of plastic composites reinforced with fiberglass. This allows the use of automatic clamps in almost any conditions.
Advantages. One-handed options are perhaps the most convenient and ergonomic type of clamps. How to use such clamps is intuitive: all manipulations are performed with one hand, while the other holds the part. Even the smallest quick-acting clamps have tremendous clamping force.
Most lever models have a transforming design that expands the capabilities of the tool. For example, on some models, you can turn the jaws in opposite directions, to work by surprise, which is very convenient when disassembling spiked joints. Two quick clamps can be easily re-arranged into one long one by interlocking the protrusions on the fixed jaws.
disadvantages. High-quality automatic clamps are quite expensive, and almost all budget counterparts are not highly reliable.
Application area. Quick-release clamps are used for all types of carpentry work: from fixing small parts to gluing large boards.
Spring clamps
Design features. Clamps with non-adjustable clamping force, working on the principle of a clothespin. A popular variation of the classic spring clamp are designs with a variable clamp width.
Advantages. Clamps are lightweight and comfortable, all manipulations when working with them are performed with one hand. They provide a stable, powerful clamping force. Optimal for delicate fixation of parts to be glued.
disadvantages. Small depth of capture.
Application area. Universal device for gluing and fixing oversized parts.
Tape clamps
Design features. The band clamp consists of a strong synthetic band and a tensioning block. The package usually includes plastic elements for adjusting corners.
Advantages. Provides gentle clamping of corners and roundings without distortion, which is very important at the gluing stage. Allows you to work with products of any size: from small frames to large cabinets. The use of plastic corner elements ensures uniform pressure when gluing corners and miter joints.
Application area. Choice of clamps belt type – best option for difficult carpentry tasks: clamping roundings large diameter, fixing polygonal connections, etc.
Pipe clamps
