Do-it-yourself stirling engine, diagram and drawing. Powerful DIY Stirling Engine Make a Stirling Engine at Home

In which the working fluid (gaseous or liquid) moves in a closed volume, in fact it is a kind of external combustion engine. This mechanism is based on the principle of periodic heating and cooling of the working fluid. Extraction of energy occurs from the emerging volume of the working fluid. The Stirling engine works not only from the energy of burning fuel, but also from almost any source. This mechanism was patented by the Scot Robert Stirling in 1816.

The described mechanism, despite not high efficiency, has a number of advantages, first of all it is simplicity and unpretentiousness. Thanks to this, many amateur designers are trying to assemble a Stirling engine with their own hands. Some succeed, and some don't.

In this article we will consider Stirling with our own hands from improvised materials. We will need the following blanks and tools: tin(possible from under sprat), sheet metal, paper clips, foam rubber, elastic band, bag, wire cutters, pliers, scissors, soldering iron,

Now let's start assembling. Here detailed instructions to how to make a Stirling engine with your own hands. First you need to wash the jar, clean it sandpaper the edges. We cut out a circle from sheet metal so that it lies on the inner edges of the can. We determine the center (for this we use a caliper or ruler), make a hole with scissors. Next, take a copper wire and paper clip, straighten the paper clip, make a ring at the end. We wind a wire on a paper clip - four tight turns. Next, we solder the resulting spiral with a small amount of solder. Then it is necessary to carefully solder the spiral to the hole in the cover so that the stem is perpendicular to the cover. The paperclip should move freely.

After that, it is necessary to make a communicating hole in the lid. We make a displacer from foam rubber. Its diameter should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the can, but there should not be a large gap. The height of the displacer is a little more than half of the can. We cut a hole in the center of the foam rubber for the sleeve, the latter can be made of rubber or cork. We insert the rod into the resulting sleeve and glue everything. The displacer must be placed parallel to the cover, this important condition. Next, it remains to close the jar and solder the edges. The seam must be sealed. Now we proceed to the manufacture of the working cylinder. To do this, cut out a strip 60 mm long and 25 mm wide from tin, bend the edge by 2 mm with pliers. We form a sleeve, after that we solder the edge, then it is necessary to solder the sleeve to the cover (above the hole).

Now you can start making the membrane. To do this, cut off a piece of film from the package, push it a little with your finger inside, press the edges with an elastic band. Next, you need to check the correctness of the assembly. We heat the bottom of the can on fire, pull the stem. As a result, the membrane should bend outward, and if the rod is released, the displacer should lower under its own weight, respectively, the membrane returns to its place. In the event that the displacer is made incorrectly or the soldering of the can is not tight, the rod will not return to its place. After that, we make the crankshaft and racks (the spacing of the cranks should be 90 degrees). The height of the cranks should be 7 mm and the displacers 5 mm. The length of the connecting rods is determined by the position of the crankshaft. The end of the crank is inserted into the cork. So we looked at how to assemble a Stirling engine with our own hands.

This mechanism will work ordinary candle. If you attach magnets to the flywheel and take the coil of an aquarium compressor, then such a device can replace a simple electric motor. With your own hands, as you can see, making such a device is not at all difficult. There would be a desire.

You can, of course, buy beautiful factory models of Stirling engines, such as in this Chinese online store. However, sometimes you want to create yourself and make a thing, even from improvised means. Our website already has several options for manufacturing these motors, and in this publication, read completely simple option manufacturing at home.

See below for 3 DIY options.

Dmitry Petrakov, by popular demand, filmed step by step instructions to assemble a powerful Stirling engine in relation to its dimensions and the amount of heat consumed. This model uses materials available to every viewer and common materials - anyone can acquire them. All sizes presented in this video, the author selected based on years of experience work with Stirlings of this design, and for this particular instance they are optimal.

This model uses materials available to every viewer and common materials, so that anyone can acquire them. All sizes presented in this video were selected based on many years of experience with Stirlings of this design, and for this particular instance they are optimal.

With feeling, sense and arrangement.

Stirling motor in operation with a load (water pump).

The water pump, assembled as a working prototype, is designed to be paired with Stirling engines. The peculiarity of the pump lies in the low energy consumption required to complete its work: such a design uses only a small part of the dynamic internal working volume of the engine, and thus affects its performance to a minimum.

Stirling motor from a can

To make it, you will need improvised materials: a can of canned food, a small piece of foam rubber, a CD, two bolts and paper clips.

Foam rubber is one of the most common materials used in the manufacture of Stirling motors. An engine displacer is made from it. From a piece of our foam rubber we cut out a circle, we make its diameter two millimeters less than the inner diameter of the can, and the height is slightly more than half of it.

We drill a hole in the center of the cover, into which we then insert the connecting rod. For a smooth running of the connecting rod, we make a spiral from a paper clip and solder it to the cover.

We pierce the foam rubber circle from foam rubber in the middle with a screw and lock it with a washer from above and below with a washer and a nut. After that, we attach a piece of paper clip by soldering, having previously straightened it.

Now we stick the displacer into the hole made in advance in the lid and hermetically solder the lid and the jar together. We make a small loop at the end of the paper clip, and drill another hole in the lid, but a little more than the first one.

We make a cylinder from tin using soldering.

We attach the finished cylinder to the jar with a soldering iron, so that there are no gaps left at the place of soldering.

We make a crankshaft from a paper clip. Knee spacing should be done at 90 degrees. The knee, which will be above the cylinder in height, is 1-2 mm larger than the other.

We make racks for the shaft from paper clips. Making a membrane To do this, we put on the cylinder polyethylene film, push it inward a little and fix it on the cylinder with a thread.

The connecting rod that will need to be attached to the membrane is made from a paper clip and inserted into a piece of rubber. The length of the connecting rod must be made in such a way that at the bottom dead center of the shaft the membrane is drawn into the cylinder, and at the highest, on the contrary, it is extended. The second connecting rod is configured in the same way.

We glue the connecting rod with rubber to the membrane, and attach the other to the displacer.

We attach the legs from the paper clips to the jar with a soldering iron and attach the flywheel to the crank. For example, you can use a CD.

Stirling engine made at home. Now it remains to bring heat under the jar - light a candle. And after a few seconds, give a push to the flywheel.

How to Make a Simple Stirling Engine (with Photos and Video)

www.newphysicist.com

Let's make a Stirling engine.

A Stirling engine is a heat engine that works by cyclically compressing and expanding air or another gas (working fluid) at different temperatures so that there is a net conversion of thermal energy into mechanical work. More specifically, the Stirling engine is a regenerative heat engine with closed loop with a constantly gaseous working fluid.

Stirling engines are more efficient than steam engines and can reach 50% efficiency. They are also able to operate silently and can use almost any heat source. The thermal energy source is generated outside the Stirling engine, and not by internal combustion, as is the case for Otto or diesel cycle engines.

Stirling engines are compatible with alternative and renewable energy sources, because they can become more significant as the price of traditional views fuel, as well as in light of such problems as the depletion of oil reserves and changing of the climate.

In this project we will give you simple instructions to create a very simple engine DIY Stirling using test tube and syringe .

How to Make a Simple Stirling Engine - Video

Components and steps to make a Stirling motor

1. Piece of hardwood or plywood

This is the basis for your engine. Thus, it must be rigid enough to handle the movements of the engine. Then make three small holes as shown in the picture. You can also use plywood, wood, etc.

2. Marble or glass beads

In a Stirling engine, these balls perform an important function. In this project, the marble acts as a hot air displacer. warm side tubes to the cold side. When marble displaces hot air, it cools down.

3. Sticks and screws

Studs and screws are used to hold the tube in a comfortable position for free movement in any direction without any interruption.

4. Rubber pieces

Buy an eraser and cut it into the following forms. It is used to securely hold the tube and maintain its tightness. There should be no leakage at the mouth of the tube. If so, the project will not be successful.

5. Syringe

The syringe is one of the most important and moving parts in a simple Stirling engine. Add some lubricant to the inside of the syringe so that the plunger can move freely inside the barrel. As the air expands inside the test tube, it pushes the piston down. As a result, the syringe barrel moves up. At the same time the marble rolls towards hot side tubes and displaces hot air and causes it to cool (reduce volume).

6. Test tube The test tube is the most important and working component of a simple Stirling engine. The test tube is made of a certain type of glass (such as borosilicate glass) that is highly heat resistant. So it can be heated to high temperatures.

How does a Stirling engine work?

Some people say Stirling engines are simple. If this is true, then just like the great equations of physics (e.g. E = mc2), they are simple: they are simple on the surface, but richer, more complex, and potentially very confusing until you realize them. I think it's safer to think of Stirling engines as complex: many are very bad videos YouTube shows how easy it is to "explain" them in a very incomplete and unsatisfactory way.

In my opinion, you can't understand a Stirling engine just by building it or watching it work from the outside: you need to seriously think about the cycle of steps it goes through, what happens to the gas inside, and how it differs from what happens in a conventional steam engine.

All that is required for the operation of the engine is the presence of a temperature difference between the hot and cold parts of the gas chamber. Models have been built that can only operate with a temperature difference of 4 °C, although factory motors will likely operate with a difference of several hundred degrees. These engines may become the most effective form internal combustion engine.

Stirling engines and concentrated solar energy

Stirling engines provide a neat method of converting thermal energy into motion that can drive a generator. The most common arrangement is to have the engine at the center of a parabolic mirror. The mirror will be mounted on the tracking device to Sun rays focused on the engine.

* Stirling engine as receiver

You may have played with convex lenses during your school days. Concentrating solar energy to burn a sheet of paper or a match, am I right? New technologies are developing day by day. Concentrated solar thermal energy is gaining more and more attention these days.

Above is a short video of a simple test tube motor using glass beads as a propellant and a glass syringe as a force piston.

This simple Stirling engine was built from materials that are available in most school science labs and can be used to demonstrate a simple heat engine.

Pressure-volume per cycle diagram

Process 1 → 2 Expansion of the working gas at the hot end of the tube, heat is transferred to the gas and the gas expands, increasing the volume and pushing the syringe plunger up.

Process 2 → 3 As the marble moves towards the hot end of the tube, the gas is forced from the hot end of the tube to the cold end, and as the gas moves, it gives off heat to the wall of the tube.

Process 3 → 4 Heat is removed from the working gas and the volume decreases, the syringe plunger moves down.

Process 4 → 1 Ends the cycle. The working gas moves from the cold end of the tube to the hot end as the marbles displace it, receiving heat from the wall of the tube as it moves, thus increasing the pressure of the gas.

Modern automotive industry has reached a level of development in which, without fundamental scientific research it is almost impossible to achieve dramatic improvements in the design of traditional internal combustion engines. This situation forces designers to pay attention to alternative power plant designs. Some engineering centers have focused their efforts on the creation and adaptation to serial production of hybrid and electrical models, other automakers are investing in the development of engines powered by renewable sources (for example, biodiesel with rapeseed oil). There are other projects of power units, which in the future may become the new standard propulsion for Vehicle.

Among the possible sources mechanical energy for cars of the future, we should name the external combustion engine, which was invented in mid-nineteenth century by the Scot Robert Stirling as a thermal expansion machine.

Scheme of work

Stirling engine converts thermal energy, supplied from the outside, into useful mechanical work due to changes in the temperature of the working fluid(gas or liquid) circulating in a closed volume.

AT general view the scheme of operation of the device is as follows: in the lower part of the engine, the working substance (for example, air) heats up and, increasing in volume, pushes the piston up. Hot air enters upper part engine where it is cooled by a radiator. The pressure of the working fluid is reduced, the piston is lowered for the next cycle. In this case, the system is sealed and the working substance is not consumed, but only moves inside the cylinder.

There are several design options for power units using the Stirling principle.

Stirling modification "Alpha"

The engine consists of two separate power pistons (hot and cold), each of which is located in its own cylinder. Heat is supplied to the cylinder with the hot piston, and the cold cylinder is located in the cooling heat exchanger.

Stirling modification "Beta"

The cylinder containing the piston is heated on one side and cooled on the opposite side. A power piston and a displacer move in the cylinder, designed to change the volume of the working gas. The return movement of the cooled working substance into the hot cavity of the engine is performed by the regenerator.

Stirling modification "Gamma"

The design consists of two cylinders. The first is completely cold, in which the power piston moves, and the second, hot on one side and cold on the other, serves to move the displacer. The regenerator for circulating cold gas can be common to both cylinders or be included in the design of the displacer.

Advantages of the Stirling engine

Like most external combustion engines, Stirling is inherent multi-fuel: the engine runs on a temperature difference, regardless of the reasons that caused it.

Interesting fact! Once, an installation was demonstrated that operated on twenty fuel options. Without stopping the engine, gasoline was supplied to the external combustion chamber, diesel fuel, methane, crude oil and vegetable oil- the power unit continued to work steadily.

The engine has simplicity of design and does not require additional systems and attachments(timing, starter, gearbox).

Features of the device guarantee a long service life: more than one hundred thousand hours of continuous operation.

The Stirling engine is silent, since detonation does not occur in the cylinders and there is no need to remove exhaust gases. Modification "Beta", equipped with a rhombic crank mechanism, is a perfectly balanced system that does not have vibrations during operation.

There are no processes in the engine cylinders that can have a negative impact on environment. By choosing a suitable heat source (e.g. solar power), Stirling can be absolutely environmentally friendly power unit.

Disadvantages of the Stirling design

With all set positive properties immediate mass use of Stirling engines is impossible for the following reasons:

The main problem lies in the material consumption of the structure. Cooling of the working fluid requires the presence of large volume radiators, which significantly increases the size and metal consumption of the installation.

The current technological level will allow the Stirling engine to compare in performance with modern gasoline engines only through the use of complex types working fluid (helium or hydrogen) under pressure of more than one hundred atmospheres. This fact raises serious questions both in the field of materials science and user safety.

An important operational problem is related to the issues of thermal conductivity and temperature resistance of metals. Heat is supplied to the working volume through heat exchangers, which leads to inevitable losses. In addition, the heat exchanger must be made of heat-resistant metals resistant to high pressure. Suitable materials very expensive and difficult to process.

The principles of changing the modes of the Stirling engine are also fundamentally different from the traditional ones, which requires the development of special control devices. So, to change the power, it is necessary to change the pressure in the cylinders, the phase angle between the displacer and the power piston, or to affect the capacity of the cavity with the working fluid.

One way to control the shaft speed on a Stirling engine model can be seen in the following video:

Efficiency

In theoretical calculations, the efficiency of the Stirling engine depends on the temperature difference of the working fluid and can reach 70% or more in accordance with the Carnot cycle.

However, the first samples realized in metal had an extremely low efficiency for the following reasons:

• inefficient coolant (working fluid) options, limiting maximum temperature heating;
• energy losses due to friction of parts and thermal conductivity of the engine housing;
• absence construction materials high pressure resistant.

Engineering solutions have constantly improved the design of the power unit. So, in the second half of the 20th century, a four-cylinder automobile Stirling engine with a rhombic drive showed an efficiency equal to 35% in tests on a water coolant with a temperature of 55 ° C. Careful study of the design, the use of new materials and fine-tuning of the working units ensured the efficiency of the experimental samples at 39%.

Note! Modern gasoline engines of similar power have a coefficient useful action at the level of 28-30%, and turbocharged diesel engines within 32-35%.

Modern examples of the Stirling engine, such as the one built by the American company Mechanical Technology Inc, show efficiency up to 43.5%. And with the development of the production of heat-resistant ceramics and similar innovative materials it will be possible to significantly increase the temperature of the working medium and achieve an efficiency of 60%.

Examples of successful implementation of automotive Stirlings

Despite all the difficulties, there are many workable models of the Stirling engine applicable to the automotive industry.

Interest in Stirling, suitable for installation in a car, appeared in the 50s of the XX century. Work in this direction was carried out by such concerns as Ford Motor Company, Volkswagen Group and others.

UNITED STIRLING (Sweden) developed Stirling, which made maximum use of serial components and assemblies produced by automakers ( crankshaft, connecting rods). The resulting four-cylinder V-engine had specific gravity 2.4 kg/kW, which is comparable to the characteristics of a compact diesel engine. This unit was successfully tested as a power plant for a seven-ton cargo van.

One of the successful examples is the four-cylinder Stirling engine of the Dutch production model "Philips 4-125DA", intended for installation on a car. The motor had a working power of 173 liters. With. in dimensions similar to the classic gasoline unit.

General Motors engineers achieved significant results by building an eight-cylinder (4 working and 4 compression cylinders) V-shaped Stirling engine with a standard crank mechanism in the 70s.

Similar power plant in 1972 equipped with a limited series of Ford Torino cars, whose fuel consumption has decreased by 25% compared to the classic gasoline V-shaped eight.

Currently, more than fifty foreign companies are working to improve the design of the Stirling engine in order to adapt it to mass production for the needs of the automotive industry. And if it is possible to eliminate the shortcomings of this type of engine, while at the same time retaining its advantages, then it is Stirling, and not turbines and electric motors, that will replace gasoline internal combustion engines.

The Stirling engine, once famous, was forgotten for a long time due to the widespread use of another engine (internal combustion). But today we hear more and more about him. Maybe he has a chance to become more popular and find his place in the new modification in the modern world?

Story

The Stirling engine is a heat engine that was invented in the early nineteenth century. The author, as you know, was a certain Stirling named Robert, a priest from Scotland. The device is an external combustion engine, where the body moves in a closed container, constantly changing its temperature.

Due to the spread of another type of motor, it was almost forgotten. Nevertheless, thanks to its advantages, today the Stirling engine (many amateurs build it at home with their own hands) is back again.

The main difference from an internal combustion engine is that the heat energy comes from outside, and is not generated in the engine itself, as in an internal combustion engine.

Principle of operation

You can imagine a closed air volume enclosed in a housing having a membrane, that is, a piston. When the body is heated, the air expands and does work, thus arching the piston. Then cooling occurs, and it bends again. This is the cycle of the mechanism.

It is no wonder that many do-it-yourself thermoacoustic Stirling engines are made at home. The tools and materials for this require the very minimum that everyone has in their home. Consider two different ways how easy it is to create.

Work materials

To make a Stirling engine with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• tin;
• steel spoke;
• brass tube;
• hacksaw;
• file;
• wooden stand;
• metal scissors;
• fastener details;
• soldering iron;
• soldering;
• solder;
• machine.

It's all. The rest is a matter of simple technique.

How to do

A firebox and two cylinders for the base are prepared from tin, of which the Stirling engine, made by hand, will consist. Dimensions are selected independently, taking into account the purposes for which this device is intended. Suppose the motor is being made for demonstration purposes. Then the sweep of the main cylinder will be from twenty to twenty-five centimeters, no more. The rest of the parts should fit in with it.

At the top of the cylinder for moving the piston, two protrusions and holes with a diameter of four to five millimeters are made. The elements will act as bearings for the location of the crank device.

Next, the working body of the motor is made (it will become ordinary water). Tin circles are soldered to the cylinder, which is rolled up into a pipe. Holes are made into them and brass tubes are inserted from twenty-five to thirty-five centimeters in length and with a diameter of four to five millimeters. At the end, they check how tight the chamber has become by filling it with water.

Next comes the turn of the displacer. For manufacturing, a blank is taken from wood. On the machine, they achieve that it takes the form of a regular cylinder. The displacer should be slightly smaller than the cylinder diameter. Optimal Height they pick it up after the Stirling engine is made with their own hands. Therefore, at this stage, the length should assume some margin.

The spoke is turned into a cylinder rod. In the center of the wooden container, make a hole suitable for the stem, insert it. In the upper part of the rod, it is necessary to provide a place for the connecting rod device.

Then they take copper tubes four and a half centimeters long and two and a half centimeters in diameter. A circle of tin is soldered to the cylinder. On the sides on the walls, a hole is made to communicate the container with the cylinder.

The piston is also adjusted to lathe under the diameter of the large cylinder from the inside. At the top, the rod is connected in a hinged way.

The assembly is completed and the mechanism is adjusted. To do this, the piston is inserted into the cylinder bigger size and connect the latter to another smaller cylinder.

A crank mechanism is built on a large cylinder. Fix part of the engine with a soldering iron. The main parts are fixed on a wooden base.

The cylinder is filled with water and a candle is placed under the bottom. The Stirling engine, made by hand from start to finish, is checked for performance.

Second way: materials

The engine can be made in another way. For this you will need the following materials:

• tin;
• foam rubber;
• paperclips;
• disks;
• two bolts.

How to do

Foam rubber is very often used to make a simple, not powerful Stirling engine at home with your own hands. A displacer for the motor is prepared from it. Cut out the foam circle. The diameter should be slightly smaller than that of the tin can, and the height should be slightly more than half.

A hole is made in the center of the cover for the future connecting rod. To make it go smoothly, the paper clip is rolled into a spiral and soldered to the lid.

The foam circle in the middle is pierced thin wire with a screw and fix it on top with a washer. Then connect a piece of paper clip by soldering.

The displacer is pushed into the hole on the lid and the jar is connected to the lid by soldering to seal. A small loop is made on the paper clip, and another, larger hole is made in the lid.

The tin sheet is rolled into a cylinder and soldered, and then attached to the can so that there are no gaps at all.

The paper clip is turned into a crankshaft. The spacing should be exactly ninety degrees. The knee above the cylinder is made slightly larger than the other.

The remaining paper clips turn into racks for the shaft. The membrane is made as follows: the cylinder is wrapped in a polyethylene film, pressed through and fastened with a thread.

The connecting rod is made from a paper clip, which is inserted into a piece of rubber, and the finished part is attached to the membrane. The length of the connecting rod is made such that at the lower shaft point the membrane is drawn into the cylinder, and at the highest point it is extended. The second part of the connecting rod is made in the same way.

Then one is glued to the membrane, and the other to the displacer.

Can legs can also be made from paper clips and soldered. For the crank, a CD is used.

Here is the whole mechanism. It remains only to substitute and light a candle under it, and then give a push through the flywheel.

Conclusion

Such is the low-temperature Stirling engine (built with your own hands). Of course, in industrial scale such devices are made in a completely different way. However, the principle remains the same: the air volume is heated and then cooled. And this is constantly repeated.

Finally, look at these drawings of the Stirling engine (you can do it yourself without any special skills). Maybe you are already on fire with the idea, and you want to do something similar?

A Stirling engine is an engine that can run on thermal energy. In this case, the source of heat is absolutely not important. The main thing is that there is a temperature difference, in which case this engine will work. The author figured out how to make a model of such an engine from a can of Coca-Cola.

Materials and tools
- one balloon;
- 3 cans of cola;
- electrical terminals, five pieces (for 5A);
- nipples for fastening bicycle spokes(2 pieces);
- metal wool;
- a piece of steel wire 30 cm long and 1 mm in cross section;
- a piece of thick wire made of steel or copper with a diameter of 1.6 to 2 mm;
- a pin made of wood with a diameter of 20 mm (length 1 cm);
- bottle cap (plastic);
- electrical wiring (30 cm);
- Super glue;
- vulcanized rubber (about 2 square centimeters);
- fishing line (length about 30 cm);
- a pair of weights for balancing (for example, nickel);
- CDs (3 pieces);
- pushpins;
- another one can for the manufacture of a firebox;
- heat-resistant silicone and a tin can to create water cooling.

Step one. Jars preparation
First of all, you need to take two jars and cut off their tops. If the tops are cut with scissors, the resulting notches will need to be ground off with a file.
Next, you need to cut the bottom of the jar. This can be done with a knife.

Step two. Creating an Aperture
As a diaphragm, the author used a balloon, which was reinforced with vulcanized rubber. The ball must be cut and pulled over the jar, as indicated in the picture. Then a piece of vulcanized rubber is glued to the center of the diaphragm. After the glue hardens, a hole is punched in the center of the diaphragm for installing the wire. The easiest way to do this is with a pushpin, which can be left in the hole until assembly.

Step three. Cutting and creating holes in the lid
In the walls of the cover, you need to drill two holes of 2 mm each, they are needed to install the pivot axis of the levers. Another hole must be drilled in the bottom of the lid, a wire will pass through it, which will be connected to the displacer.

On the final stage The cover must be cut as shown in the picture. This is done so that the displacer wire does not cling to the edges of the cover. For such work, utility scissors are suitable.

Step four. Drilling
In the jar, you need to drill two holes for the bearings. In this case, this was done with a 3.5 mm drill.

Step five. Creating a viewing window
A viewing window must be cut into the engine housing. Now it will be possible to observe how all the nodes of the device function.

Step six. Terminal modification
You need to take the terminals and remove the plastic insulation from them. Then a drill is taken, and through holes are made at the edges of the terminals. In total, you need to drill 3 terminals, while two should remain undrilled.

Step seven. Creating leverage
As a material for creating levers, copper wire is used, the diameter of which is 1.88 mm. How exactly to bend the knitting needles is shown in the pictures. You can also use steel wire, it's just more pleasant to work with copper wire.

Step eight. Creation of bearings
To make bearings, you will need two bicycle nipples. The hole diameter needs to be checked. The author drilled them through with a 2 mm drill.

Step nine. Installation of levers and bearings
The levers can be installed directly through the viewing window. One end of the wire should be long, it will have a flywheel. The bearings must be firmly in place. If there is a backlash, they can be glued.

Step ten. Creating a Displacer
The displacer is made of steel wool for polishing. To create a displacer, a steel wire is taken, a hook is made on it, and then the required amount of cotton wool is wound on the wire. The displacer must be large enough to move freely in the can. The total height of the displacer should not exceed 5 cm.

As a result, on one side of the cotton wool, it is necessary to form a spiral of wire so that it does not come out of the cotton wool, and on the other side a loop is made of the wire. Next, a fishing line is tied to this loop, which is subsequently pulled through the center of the diaphragm. The vulcanized rubber should be in the middle of the container.

Step 11 Create a Pressure Tank
It is necessary to cut the bottom of the jar so that about 2.5 cm remains from its base. The displacer together with the diaphragm must be placed in the tank. After that, this whole mechanism is installed at the end of the can. The diaphragm needs to be tightened a little so that it does not sag.

Then you need to take the terminal that was not drilled and stretch the fishing line through it. The knot must be glued so that it does not move. The wire must be well lubricated with oil and at the same time make sure that the displacer easily pulls the line along.
Step 12 Create Push Rods
Push rods connect the diaphragm and levers. It's made from a piece. copper wire 15 cm long.

Step 13 Create and install the flywheel
To create a flywheel, 3 old CDs are used. A wooden rod is used as the central part. After installing the flywheel, the crankshaft rod is bent, so the flywheel will not fall off.

At the final stage, the whole mechanism is assembled together.