On the picture, decorative spruce horse, she is about 8 years old. This is what she looked like after the winter of 2012. The desiccation of the needles occurred due to the influence of the March sun, when, when heated, moisture evaporates from the needles, and root system the plant is still in a frozen state, and is not ready to compensate for it. From a large family coniferous plants, it is the Konik spruce that often burns in the spring. To avoid this, mandatory shelter for the winter is required. Although we closed the spruce, we apparently hurried up and removed the protection early, the earth had not yet had time to thaw. An unpleasant sight.
Spruce treatment.

During the summer of 2012 we tried to revive our Christmas tree. They regularly watered it, carried out several crown treatments with growth stimulants, fed it with mineral fertilizers and microelements. But all the ongoing treatment, ate did not help. In the spring of 2013, I had to shorten the trunk and cut off all dry branches from the plant. Although our Konika spruce has not died, and continues to live, of course, it has lost its decorative effect. After all, it is precisely for its proportionally folded crown shape, in the form of a regular cone, that this plant is valued by gardeners. Now we are thinking and guessing whether the crown will be fully restored or not.
spruce breeding.

While our spruce will be restored, we decided to propagate it different ways. The first way to propagate spruce is by grafting a cutting with a core on a cambium. You can read a master class on the vaccination technique. In the spring, 2 cuttings of the Konik spruce were grafted onto the rootstock of the common spruce. Konika has very thin branches, so grafting is difficult and not always successful.

Of the two inoculations, only one took root, the second dried up. As you can see in the photo, the fresh growth on the grafted cutting was 3.5 - 4 cm. Next year, native branches will be removed from the common spruce stock, which will allow the grafted cutting to develop more intensively. Wait and see

For the second propagation method, we rooted spruce cuttings in sandy soil. Rooting technology is described. All types of spruce certain conditions well rooted. In the first year, the cuttings practically do not grow, because. all forces are given to the creation of the root system. Further, annual increments at Konik spruce, they are 5-6 cm.

Spruce canadian "Konika" disease

It is no secret that almost all plants are affected by diseases and pests, and blue spruce is no exception. If you notice that small yellow bubbles appeared on the needles of your Christmas tree, then most likely the blue spruce was struck by a fungal rust disease. For its treatment, it is necessary to treat the tree once every 10 days with Vectra, Skor or Fundazol. Repeat the procedure three times.

And one more fungal disease on the blue spruce "Konica" is a disease of Schutte needles.

There is such a large number that it is difficult to count everything, but they are all divided into coniferous and bark beetles (xylophages).

The first type of pests, eating needles and young shoots, completely gnaw blue spruce. For example, if a spruce bud is eaten away from the inside, then most likely a spruce sawfly or a spruce moth caterpillar attacked the tree. If the buds of plants are eaten away from the outside, it can be assumed that a weevil has settled on the Canadian spruce.

The listed pests are very dangerous for young seedlings, because they do not allow plants to develop normally and grow crowns. With a mass attack, the growth of trees slows down, or stops altogether.

Pests of Canadian blue spruce that eat exclusively needles include caterpillars of leaf roller butterflies, sawflies, moths, wavelets, weevils, yellowtails, nun butterflies and some leaf rollers. These insects multiply rapidly and can kill more than one tree.

But not only the needles are attacked by pests, the bark is also subject to insect invasion.

Bark beetles, borers, grinders, barbels and drillers feed on this delicacy. They make real moves under the spruce bark, causing irreparable damage to the plant.

Most often, these insects settle on blue spruces growing in arid conditions. There is another pest that eats spruce bark - a large spruce beetle (dendrocton). Its presence on the tree is indicated by large (up to 3 cm) holes at the very bottom of the trunk near the root part. Holes are always abundantly filled with resin.

The blackening of the needles of spruce in the lower part of the crown is caused by a fungal infection that has taken advantage of more high humidity and caused the needles to subside. At the same time, it becomes dark brown, sometimes almost black, then falls off. First of all, trees weakened by difficult wintering or other factors suffer. To prevent the needles from getting warm, you need in early spring and in the thaw to ventilate the crown of frost-resistant conifers, raking off wet snow. And after the snow melts, for prevention purposes, treat the trees with fungicides.

If the needles turned brown ...

If the Canadian spruce turned yellow, then it's okay - we do not have Canada. And this tree requires mandatory shelter for the winter, preferably with two layers of burlap, otherwise every two winters out of three you will admire brown needles in the spring. Or put up with her spring look.

Lawson's cypress suffers even more. It is blown away every year by the level of snow. If you are unlucky with the thuja (burned out in the sun) - cut it in the spring and spray it with stimulants. For example, Epinom.

... turned yellow

A common reason is late boarding. In late autumn, plants do not have time to take root, and the needles continue to evaporate moisture even in winter. Therefore, the plant is dehydrated, the needles turn yellow and dry.

Perhaps sunburn in winter and early spring is to blame. Why don't plants burn in summer? The fact is that in winter the bright sun's rays are reflected from the snow, which is why the illumination near the plant almost doubles. This is what causes burns. Occasionally, they arise from south side. You can save coniferous plants by tying them with burlap or thick paper.

The fourth reason is fungal diseases. Biological preparations (Alirin, Gamair, Fitosporin-M) will help against them, and in their absence, double treatment with Fundazol (10 g per 10 l of water) with an interval of 10 days. To restore the immunity of plants, spraying with Epin-extra or Zircon preparations is used until recovery.

The fifth reason is pests. For example, thuja aphid or Sitka spruce aphid. These are dangerous pests. Various types of arborvitae, prickly spruce, Serbian spruce, Sitka spruce, suffer from them. Aphids can be detected by holding up a piece of white paper and tapping on a branch. When a pest appears, repeated spraying of trees with potash soap, infusions of garlic, wormwood and other herbs is recommended.

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In some conifers, the color changes by winter (the needles turn brown, a golden hue appears), the needles partially fall off. This is a normal seasonal occurrence. needles different plants keep on a bush or tree from three to eight years. Then the old needles fall off with the onset of a cold snap. "Losses" are more noticeable in the depth of the crown, where there is less light. In pines, cypresses and thujas, fallen needles gradually accumulate. Therefore, the crown, especially the forks of branches, must be cleared of such clusters. The easiest way is to wash off the dead needles with a strong jet of water from a hose (on low trees you can remove it with your hand in a thick glove).

TIP: If there is no suspicion that the tree is sick or suffering from pests, it is better to leave the fallen needles under it. It accumulates, mulching the ground and rotting. At the same time, a suitable acid-base balance of the soil is maintained.

…or disease

Sometimes discoloration of the needles is a symptom of the disease. Problematic trees do not restore their typical color in the spring, in which case they need urgent help. What causes yellowing and falling of needles? one. fungal diseases. In this case, the crown of conifers is sprayed with Kartocide (according to instructions) or 1% Bordeaux liquid(several times with an interval of two weeks until complete recovery). The preparations Fundazol, HOM, Oksi-hom, Ordan or Commander are also suitable (according to the instructions).

2. Aphid. Early spring spraying with Karbofos helps to destroy the pest. In the middle of summer - Aktellik or Rogor-S (according to instructions).

3. Incorrect tree planting (excessive deepening). bad if ground water come close to the soil surface.

4. Plant starvation. We need top dressing with a balanced complex fertilizer for conifers with magnesium.

5. Long-term drought or waterlogging of the soil. In case of waterlogging, water has to be diverted, and sometimes a young plant needs to be transplanted.

6. Sunlight Seedlings of many species of conifers should be planted in partial shade or shade young trees from the burning rays of the sun. Do not like conifers and frequent smoke. Therefore, there is no need to burn garden waste next to them. After smoke, it is advisable to pour coniferous crown with water from a hose.

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - with your own hands"

Ludmila Shcherbakova,
Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Associate Professor of the St. Petersburg Forest Engineering Academy, specialist in the conservation and protection of garden and park plants

FIR DAMAGE, CAUSES, TREATMENT

Healthy, properly planted spruces are rarely attacked by pests. The soil should be light, moist and slightly acidic. Fertilization helps to improve the growth of spruces, the development of their root system, and also protects them from diseases and pests.

SUCKING PESTS

Several dozen species of sucking pests are known on spruce trees, including coccids (scale insects, false scale insects, mealybugs), aphids, hermes and spider mites. They suck juices from needles, shoots, branches, trunks and even roots. They have small size and hardly noticeable. They can be detected by sticky secretions that cover the surface of needles and branches, or by the presence of galls.

• Yellowish spots appear on the old needles, later the needles fall off. Aphid Spruce Sitka - a pest of prickly spruce, Serbian spruce and Sitka spruce. This green sucking insect is only 1-2 mm in size. Aphids can be detected by holding up a piece of white paper and tapping on a branch.

Control measures. Aphids are bred and grazing by ants. The way out is to prevent the spread of ants. If there are few aphids, regularly wash the infected areas with clean cold or soapy water (but before that you need to cover the soil so that the soap mass in in large numbers didn't get rooted). The procedure must be repeated more than once with an interval of 6-10 days. Cutting off the ends of shoots with aphid colonies significantly reduces the harmfulness of insects. This event can be combined with planned pruning.

• Curvature and yellowing of the needles, sticky fluffy snow-white formations are visible on the underside of the needles. Galls form at the ends of young shoots. This is HERMES GREEN SPRUCE-LARCH or SPRUCE-FIR. These "bumps" gradually grow, increase, acquire a crimson color. There are up to 120 pest larvae inside such a shortened mutilated spruce shoot. At the buds on the bark, you can see adult females, and on the needles - brown or yellowish-green larvae. Hermes larvae cause bending, drying and further shedding of the needles. Branches on which galls appear next year dry up. In the middle of summer, the galls crack and young aphids fly to spruce, fir or larch trees growing nearby. Hermes harms mainly spruce and prickly spruce.

Control measures. It is very simple to eradicate Hermes - remove all shoots with galls in time, and no chemistry is required. Do not plant larch and fir next to spruce. When spreading - spraying with insecticides. Aerosols of insecticides do not penetrate through the fluff, therefore it is best to act on Hermes through the plant sap with systemic insecticides.

• The needles are braided with cobwebs and due to this they are kept on the tree. With gusts of wind, the needles fly around, and the crown is exposed. Tiny caterpillars mine needles, making round holes at the base of the needles. This is how the SPRUCE NEEDLE ROLLER works, it harms many types of spruces. Diagnosis can be difficult if you do not touch the needles with your hands.

Control measures. Affected shoots must be repeatedly treated with a solution liquid soap or delete. Dry needles can be combed with a small fan rake, laying polyethylene or other material under the tree, and burned the collected needles. With a large spread of the pest, apply systemic pesticides that penetrate the plant tissue and are transported through the vessels throughout the plant.

• The needles are entangled in a thin rare cobweb, covered with yellowish spots, later turning brown and crumbling. Spruce spider mite and its larvae damage young plants: prickly spruce, Canadian spruce, common spruce, western thuja, juniper, biota. Few damage the Engelman spruce, Serbian. During the summer, the female gives 3-4 generations. The mite causes the greatest harm in hot years to trees growing on dry soils. During the growing season, mites form from four to six generations, so the degree of damage increases towards the end of summer.

Control measures. good care for young seedlings. Spray plants prophylactically cold water to increase humidity. When symptoms appear, spray with colloidal sulfur, infusions of dandelion or garlic. If the affected area occupies a significant area, then apply acaricides.

• Browning and falling of needles, drying of branches, shiny footprints. SPRUCE FALSE SHIELD is not only a pest of common spruce, but also other types of spruce. Mass colonies of insects on young plantings, sucking out the juices, not only cause a general slowdown in growth, but often completely destroy the plant. the branches of adult trees, on which colonies of false scale insects appear, dry out and deform greatly, their total assimilating surface decreases, and this retards growth and reduces the winter hardiness of trees. Females and larvae feed on sap on needles and shoots, excreting honeydew.

Control measures. Trees growing in shady places and on dry soils are especially affected by spruce scale insects. Compliance with the correct agricultural technology prevents the attack of pests. Preventive spraying of young trees with insecticides helps. With a large number, spraying is repeated in August - September.

• The needles of young seedlings and seedlings of spruce begin to dry and crumble. Two types of ROOT APHIDS suck out juices from the thin roots of young Christmas trees: spruce honeysuckle, for which spruce is an intermediate plant, and spruce root. Root aphids harm mainly seedlings and seedlings.

Control measures. Root aphids can only be killed with systemic insecticides.

• The needles turn yellow and curl. appeared on the branches small insects with white fibrous shields on their backs that protect them from predators. These are relatives of aphids - coniferous worms. In dry years, they multiply in such numbers that the branches appear to be covered with frost. You can also find these pests on firs and pines. As the others sucking insects, mealybugs are the main carriers of viruses.

Control measures. Spraying with tobacco infusion three times at weekly intervals. In case of severe damage, one should resort to "systemic" insecticides, they penetrate into the juice of the treated plant and temporarily make it poisonous to pests.

NEEDLE BURNING PESTS

Insects that eat buds and needles are called needle-eating pests. They are quite numerous and are represented by species of butterflies, sawflies and beetles.

• Young needles on the apical and lateral shoots acquire a red-brown color and do not fall off for a long time. It is first mined, and then the larvae of the common spruce sawfly are eaten whole. Its larvae are very difficult to see, they are well disguised as needles. Old spruce needles are gnawed by single and nested sawflies. Both of these sawflies equip their dwelling from cobwebs and excrement.

Control measures.

• The kidneys are eaten. If the kidney is damaged from the inside, then it is the SPRUCE BUDNEY SAW or the caterpillar of the SPRUCE MOTH. If the kidney is damaged on the outside, then it is a WELVIBLE. Damage to buds and shoots is especially dangerous for young trees.

Control measures. dig up trunk circles. Destroy nests and larvae when pest numbers are low. Spraying with infusions and decoctions of insecticidal plants. With a large number of treatment for larvae with insecticides.

• In May-July, moths fly around the fir trees, followed by caterpillars appearing on the branches. It could be the SPOTTED MIGHT, a butterfly from the scoop family. Its caterpillars are brown-gray, covered with long hair. They appear in August-September and eat the needles. They look different, but also harm the DARK GRAY MOTHER and the CORN-WINGED CONIFEROUS MOTHER. They pupate in the ground under the spruce.

Control measures. Food baits with fermentation additives. These baits are good because they last all summer. When digging or loosening, destruction brown pupae. Treatment of plantings with insecticidal and biological products during bud break.

PESTS THAT DAMAGE CONES

Spruce cones are a real delicacy for many pests. Cones damage leafworm caterpillars, moths, moths and larvae of grinders, gall midges and seed-eaters. Cones damaged by pests are easy to distinguish by curvature, discoloration, and dust spilling out of the cone.

• In June-July, usually in the evenings occurs the summer of butterflies. This is a CONE FIRE, the caterpillars of which gnaw cones and eat away seeds. A brownish mass of excrement hangs on the surface of the cones, in some places there are streaks of resin. The cone moth populates the cones of common, eastern and Siberian spruce, Caucasian fir, Siberian larch, Korean cedar pine. This is one of major pests seeds conifers.

Control measures. Treatment with systemic insecticides during the hatching period of caterpillars.

STEM PESTS

Stem pests damage the bark and various layers of wood. Their larvae develop under the bark, penetrating into all layers of the tree (depending on the species of the pest). Penetrating under the bark, bark beetles secrete odorous substances - pheromones, and more and more beetles flock to their smell. For example, at the smell of a spruce bark beetle-typographer, beetles flock from a distance of up to 11 km! It is extremely rare to save a tree inhabited by bark beetles, and if beetles have inhabited it along the entire circumference of the trunk, then the only measure is the urgent destruction of the tree until the young generation of beetles comes out from under the bark.

• Already in the middle of summer, the needles begin to fade, later turn yellow and fall off. Numerous small holes in the bark. Brown drilling flour is abundantly poured around the entire circumference of the trunk. The bark beetle often infects weakened spruce trees of various ages. Highly dangerous pest. He destroys trees in the historical parks of Pavlovsk and Pushkin, at one time destroyed the spruce tent in Trigorskoye and several memorial Hannibal fir trees in Mikhailovskoye (Pushkinsky Gory Museum-Reserve). It is ubiquitous in our forests. Such trees must be removed before the younger generation of the typographer completes development under the bark and flies out into the wild.
• Red needles on spruce and fir branches, large resin funnels in places where pests enter the trunk. GREAT SPRUCE BEETLE - the largest of our bark beetles, up to 9 mm long. Extremely dangerous pest, very aggressive. It attacks mainly old spruces, but does not neglect young ones either. May inhabit pine trees. AT last years it kills the blue spruces in Peterhof. At the slightest sign of weakening of the tree, you need to carefully examine the trunk, and if you see drilling flour, do not spare the tree, but remove it as soon as possible.
• Beetles crawl along the trunk, they have an elongated body and mustaches characteristic of these insects, which can be thrown over their backs. The length of the whiskers in some species significantly exceeds the length of the beetle itself. BLACK SPRUCE BORNEBS burrow into the trunk of a tree and make numerous moves there. When laying eggs, barbels leave characteristic notches on the bark, as if they were pressing on the bark with a fingernail. Usually barbel comes to us from nurseries along with infected planting material.
• In May-June, black beetles appear with a rusty-red shield border and yellow-brown elytra, along which two longitudinal stripes run. This is a matt-chested SPRUCE WOOD CUTTER. It harms spruce, it also damages fir, pine and larch. The beetle settles on weakened or diseased trees. The larvae make wide passages in the wood.

Control measures. On the initial stage there is a chance to save the tree. Careful treatment with protective preparations, douching the holes formed can kill the first beetles, preventing them from multiplying and attracting the bulk of pests to the trees. During the departure of beetles (June - July), tree crowns are sprayed with contact insecticides. If you find drill flour, use a knife to remove the bark where it appears and scrape off the white larvae that eat the cambium. Bark beetle control with pheromone traps should not be carried out in the garden, as the traps will attract beetles from all surrounding forest plantations. Traps are hung in the nearest forest area, as is done in forests and parks, where a dozen can be sacrificed to save a thousand trees. The main thing is not to forget to check the traps and remove the pests that have fallen into them.

FIR DISEASES

Spruces, like all conifers, suffer more from non-communicable diseases caused by adverse conditions. environment, and gardeners' mistakes during planting and care.

• Landing with a strong DEEP. In nature, spruce roots come to the surface.
• LACK OF WATER is a common cause of spruce death.
• If European or Norway spruce has yellowed needles, in most cases the cause is a lack of nutrients.
• STRONG FROST can damage young plantings.
• A heavy mass of SNOW leads to breakage of branches.

Spruces quite often suffer from fungal diseases. As a rule, they do not cause the death of a tree, but they can provoke premature shedding of needles, which is reflected in the appearance of trees. Fungal diseases are provoked by dense planting, lack of light and excess moisture in the air and soil.

• The needles turn brown in May, but remain on the branches. In the lower part of the needles, spores of the fungus are formed. Infection of neighboring needles occurs, plants turn brown, shoots do not overwinter badly - SHUTE.
• In autumn, brown spots appear on young needles; in early spring, white mycelium develops on the needles. The needles darken and fall off - SNOW SHUTTE.
• On young seedlings, the needles turn brown and fall off, traces of sporulation of the fungus are visible - FUZARIOSIS, a disease that affects the roots, the infection penetrates through the vessels into all tissues.
• Dry top, thinning and drying out of a part of the crown, with severe damage - mushroom caps grow on the trunk - stem and root ROT. root rot penetrate into the wood of the trunk and cause the death of the tree.
• The bark of the branches darkens, dries up, brick-colored growths or dark small pads form on it, the bark dies, the tree dies. Necrosis of the cortex.
• Ulcers form on the trunks: open, with resin, with protruding bodies of fungi or closed, in the form of numerous resin nodules - ULCER (wound) CANCER can be caused by fungi and bacteria.
• On the inside scales of the bark appear rounded dusty dark brown pustules. The cones are wide open, hanging for several years, the seeds are not viable. This is RUST CONES. Sometimes shoots are bent, the disease in this form is called SPRUCE SPIRIT. Infection comes from bird cherry.

Control measures. Healthy planting material, timely removal of dried branches, coating of saw cuts with garden pitch, paint. Increasing resistance through the use of microfertilizers and immunostimulants. Do not plant next to bird cherry. Treatment of the roots of seedlings before planting with fungicides. When signs of illness appear, water with fungicides under the root. Preventive spraying in early spring with copper-containing preparations. Destruction of the affected needles, branches.

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These at first glance undemanding trees are also sick. Needles turn yellow - the most common ailment to which these forest beauties. There are several explanations for this fact, and all negative reasons desirable to eliminate.

Causes of yellowing needles in coniferous trees

In coniferous trees, yellowing of the needles or even their complete drying can sometimes be noted. Why do the needles of the Christmas tree turn yellow, and how to help the tree?

Firstly, one of the reasons for the yellowing of needles in conifers may be cold. In some coniferous plants, branches may turn yellow in winter. For example, such plants include microbiota, juniper common varieties"Plumosa" and "Depressa Aurea", pseudosugu green and other plants. But this is not critical, since with the onset of spring the branches will again acquire their green color.

Secondly, the needles can turn yellow even with mild frosts. And all because not all conifers are frost-resistant. For example, these include the following coniferous plants - blunt cypress, virginian juniper, green and eastern pseudosugu, Lawson's cypress, giant thuja. If you want to grow these plants in the middle lane, you should definitely take into account the peculiarities of caring for them in winter time and know if they need to be sheltered for this period.

Also, spruce needles often turn yellow under the influence of heat. With a prolonged lack of moisture, the following coniferous plants can dry out - Chinese metasequoia, Japanese cypress, pea-bearing, marsh and others. All these plants are afraid of too warm spring, which comes immediately after frost. In autumn, they need to be watered abundantly so that they can make a supply of moisture for a long period.

With a lack of minerals, the needles can also turn yellow. This is especially true for the lack of magnesium when feeding coniferous plants. Therefore, such a selection is necessary. mineral fertilizers, which contained all the necessary minerals and could eliminate the yellowing of the needles.

The needles of the Christmas tree turn yellow under the influence of pests and diseases. Therefore, yellowing needles must be carefully examined and paid attention to whether they have plaque, stains or any pests. If necessary, plants should be treated with appropriate preparations.

Dog urine is also detrimental to coniferous crops. The marks left by these animals lead to the drying of the branches that need to be cut, and the plant itself, if possible, should be protected from such encroachments.

If you bought a coniferous plant at an exhibition or in a store and noticed that its needles are turning yellow, or if you have a pine or thuja growing in open ground for a long time, but at one fine moment you notice that on one particular side or in general the entire crown begins turn yellow, then we bring to your attention 5 main reasons, and probably the only ones, from which the needles of coniferous plants turn yellow. The main thing is to react in time to save the plant. Some reasons are not fatal, while other reasons can severely damage the conifer and you will have to “puff” over it.

The first reason is why the needles turn yellow. The most common reason is lack of watering. In the store there are conifers in pots, containers, their needles are green ... And inexperienced sellers can rarely water them, the needles do not fade, and the green one is standing! Remember, your Christmas tree or pine stands for so long, that is, by its appearance it is not entirely possible to understand whether it has enough water or not.

Here they dried in the store earthen clod, then remembered, poured. But the small roots, which absorb moisture the most and most quickly, have died off. And in order for them to branch, you need to help the plant with fertilizer or a growth accelerator, periodically water it on time.

Therefore, when you buy a conifer in a store or nursery, then rather be guided by the conscience of the seller than by the appearance of the soil. Even if it is watered, this may mean that it was only watered today, and the coniferous plant has been dry for a week. And when you bring the conifer home, then in a week its needles may turn yellow.

It is best, of course, to know in advance the quality of the company or seller, it may be necessary, if the store or nursery is not far from you, to periodically visit and observe the plants, how they are cared for. Coniferous in pots photo:

If you bought such an “under-watered” plant, and the needles began to turn yellow at your place, then if you want to plant a plant in open ground, we advise that such sufferers should not be planted in dry sandy soil, especially calcareous, with a shallow fertile layer. They will be sick for a long time. In this case, you need to specially prepare a pit for planting so that there is enough fertile soil in it, and you need to plant it together with a lump so as not to tear off the already weak roots.

The second reason is why the needles turn yellow. This is an inappropriate late landing. As they say, "the greed of the fryer killed." If you planted a conifer late in the fall and it did not have time to take root, take root, that is, winter came soon, frosts, the soil froze, then the needles of the coniferous plant will turn yellow, since the roots do not absorb moisture, they sleep, and the needles continue to evaporate moisture. Yes, coniferous plants in winter, especially on clear days, evaporate moisture from the needles. As a result, the plant becomes dehydrated, the needles turn yellow and fall.

To save a plant:

1. - cover it from frost and sun;

2. -clear snow around the conifer so that it forms a side around the trunk and at least every other day water the conifer with warm enough water (60 degrees). Water, when it soaks into the cold ground, will take the desired temperature. And a side of snow will also create protective zone so that drafts do not freeze the soil more. Planting conifers late autumn a photo:

The third reason is why the needles turn yellow. Sun burns. Most often in winter and early spring, when the snow has not yet melted, the sun's rays, reflected from the white snow, create even more illumination near the plant, almost 2 times more intense. Therefore, the needles turn yellow and fall off. After all, there is little moisture in the soil, and the needles of water reserves begin to evaporate more and more from solar lighting. Of course, conifers do not need to be watered all winter.

Of course, it is desirable to water at least once a month. But coniferous plants will save shelter from the sun. You can cover with thick paper, burlap, special covering material, which can now be bought at any garden store, or with the same coniferous spruce branches. Sunburn coniferous photo:

The fourth reason is why the needles turn yellow. Fungi, that is, fungal diseases, can cause yellowing and falling of needles. These are fungi that most often cause coniferous diseases such as various types of schütte and various rusts. Fungi can appear from improper care behind plants, frequent plantings, in which there are no ventilated places, constant shade. For conifers spend preventive treatment, since fungi can be everywhere in the soil and air. For prevention, spraying with foundationazole (10 g per 10 liters of water with an interval of 10 days) is suitable.

If the needles have already turned yellow and you have not identified other reasons, so it is most likely that this is the fault of fungi, then treat the conifers with biological products - Fitosporin - M, Alirin, Gamair. These biologics fight fungi, but in order to strengthen the immunity of the plant itself, treat the conifers with Zircon and Epin - extra. Needle rust:

The fifth reason is why the needles turn yellow. Coniferous plants have enough pests that like to spoil the appearance of plants, or even completely lead to death. For example, thuja aphid or Sitka spruce aphid. Most often, aphids attack thuja, Sitka, prickly and Serbian pines.

Substitute a white sheet under the branch, and tap the branch on top with your hand. If dark little “goats” fell on the leaf, then your conifers “eat” aphids. You can get rid of aphids on conifers if you often spray the plants with potash soap, a strong infusion of garlic, wormwood or other herbs.

It's not chemistry though...

Aphids on needles photo:

Another pest of coniferous plants can be a night butterfly - a nun, or rather voracious caterpillars of a dirty white, gray color. If you have a few conifers and you notice the caterpillars well, then most of them can be collected and destroyed, but keep in mind that these caterpillars hit the needles so that the branches remain bare. Therefore, it is better to additionally spray the conifers with Bitoxibacillin or other Decis, Karate preparations.

Also, your coniferous plants can spoil spider mite and spruce leaflet. When the plants are struck by a leafworm, the needles turn yellow, a fairly noticeable cobweb appears and small caterpillars eating the needles are visible inside. If you begin to notice a cobweb on the needles, then we first undertake mechanical processing.

We put on gloves, gently cover the branch with our hands and, as it were, pull the web from them in the direction of the growth of the needles. You can twist, shake the branches. Then we process the plants with colloidal sulfur, a strong infusion of dandelion or garlic.

If the branches are severely affected, then we treat them with a solution of liquid soap so that the insects stick and suffocate, and then we remove these branches. If you have a lot of coniferous plants and all together began to be eaten by pests, then we advise you not to waste time, but to use chemical insecticidal preparations, in which case you will definitely save your plants.

Plants are very popular with gardeners. In nature, there are many various kinds coniferous plants, but almost all trees large sizes. Because of this, not all species are possible to grow in amateur gardens. Of course, it is possible to limit the growth of large coniferous plants and form a compact crown artificially, but they will look much better and more natural on small area dwarf forms coniferous trees.

Breeders have bred many attractive forms of undersized conifers, and landscape designers and amateur gardeners increasingly prefer them.One of the most beloved dwarf varieties of Canadian spruce is the "Conica" spruce. This attractive low herringbone grows very slowly.

Spruce height. In adulthood(at 60 years old) its height reaches 4 meters, and its diameter is 2 meters. The height of the dwarf Canadian Christmas trees "Conica" depends not only on the characteristics of the variety, but also on the conditions of the plants. Herringbone "Conica" is unusually beautiful, it has a very strict pyramidal shape of the crown, it is thick and fluffy in the literal sense of the word - when touched, it does not prick your hands at all with its delicate light green needles. Not a tree, but a picture!

Place to land you need to choose a slightly shaded, protected from the wind. AT spring time it should not be flooded with floods, this can lead to the death of spruce. Planting can be carried out at any time of the year, in warm regions - even in winter, when the plant is at a complete rest stage. The best time for planting in spring and autumn. If the transplant is carried out in the summer, then it is important to choose a cloudy, cool day. Shade next week from sunlight and water twice a week at 8-10 liters per plant.

For full growth, the soil must be light and rich. organic matter. For Canadian firs"Conica" suitable loam, as well as any soil with a deep humus layer; too dry, dense, infertile, calcareous soils are undesirable. AT landing pit bring a bucket of rotted manure and 60-80 g complex fertilizer long-acting for conifers. If the soil is sandy or clay, then add earth and compost. After planting, the soil must be mulched with peat with a layer of 5-7 cm.

Caring for your Conica spruce

Caring for this Christmas tree is minimal, it requires almost no attention. But still there are subtleties in care. Spruce "Conica" gratefully responds to the spraying of needles and fertilization. Its root system is superficial with a weak tap root. Shallow loosening of the soil and mulching will provide access to oxygen and constant moderate humidity. In the absence of rain, it is necessary to carry out frequent watering their Canadian Christmas trees.

Necessary shelter for the winter. This is done not only to protect against frost, the "Conica" spruce is a frost-resistant tree, it will protect against sunburn, which she can receive starting in February. It is at the end of winter - beginning of spring that the solar Activity, but the root system of the tree is "not working" yet.

Cover the crown with burlap, cardboard or other improvised materials. The lower part of the plant is left open to avoid rotting. If the Christmas tree was still damaged sunbeams, then it can be restored without cutting bare branches. Since April, the damaged tree sprayed everyday from a hose. Such a “shower” leads to the growth of fresh needles on seemingly dead branches.