Is it possible to propagate conifers by layering. Technology of growing coniferous trees

A modern estate cannot be imagined without coniferous plants. If earlier, far from every dacha, one could see a lonely " Christmas tree", today, thanks to the widest range offered garden centers, conifers have become an indispensable component of a garden mixborder and an invariable decoration of any site. True, many are faced with the fact that the price planting material conifers compared to deciduous shrubs and trees, a little higher and not always available to ordinary summer residents. Having mastered the simple methods of propagating coniferous plants, everyone can replenish their collection with new varieties and decorate their site with them.

In this way, you can get a large number of plants to create, coniferous arrays or strengthen slopes.

In addition to seed (generative) propagation, which, as is known, is not used for varietal plants, since it does not preserve in in full parental properties, conifers are propagated using cuttings and grafting (propagation by grafting is practiced if cuttings are difficult to obtain standard forms). The easiest way that gives a quick result is cuttings with semi-lignified and lignified cuttings.

What types of conifers can be propagated by cuttings?

It's good to know that different types and even varieties of the same species can be propagated with more or less success. Representatives of the Cypress families (Cupressaceae) - thuja, microbiota, cypress, tuevik and Yew (Tahaseae) are most easily cut by cuttings. Representatives of pine (Pináceae) cuttings are very difficult to cut: spruce, hemlock, pseudo-hemlock. It is almost impossible to propagate by cuttings, fir and larch, they just use seed propagation and vaccination.

How to choose a mother liquor?

For a good result, it is also necessary to take into account a number of factors, since the violation of only one of them can nullify all previous work.

First you need to choose the right mother liquor - mature plant from which you are going to cut the cuttings. Shoots taken from young, actively growing specimens 4-8 years old take root best of all. In plants older than 10 years, the ability to root is reduced.

It is useful to know that the location on the crown matters mother plant shoots intended for cutting into cuttings. In creeping and bush conifers, the place where the cutting is taken does not play a role, you can choose the most developed part, well-lit by the sun (especially in variegated varieties). From and pyramidal plants for cuttings take shoots of the first or third order in the center of the crown. Seedlings from such cuttings will be guaranteed to retain the shape of the crown of the parent variety. On the other hand, knowing this property, one can obtain sprawling or almost creeping specimens of spruce or yew, using lateral, horizontally growing branches for cuttings.

cutting time

It is also important to choose the right time for cutting cuttings. The beginning of spring is considered the most successful. After winter cooling and relative rest at the very beginning of sap flow, it is better in cloudy weather and early in the morning, when it is still not hot and there are no drying winds. Harvested in early spring cuttings will take root this year. During summer cuttings, at the beginning of lignification and hardening of the young, only callus is formed in the first year, and roots - in the next year. You can also carry out cuttings after finishing active growth and the beginning of lignification of shoots in August or lignified shoots in September-November, then their rooting will occur only on next year.

cutting cutting technology

Not all cuttings are suitable for rooting. Since the formation of callus and coniferous roots lasts from several months to a year or more, cuttings that are too thin and weak will be depleted and die long before rooting. Depending on the type of plant, annuals are taken for cuttings. side shoots about 5-15 cm long. In vigorous forms of thuja and cypress, cuttings can be 20-30 cm, and in junipers, a little more. Well rooted shoots with a "heel" (part of the wood previous year), which are not cut off from the parent branch, but are torn off with a sharp downward movement, capturing part of last year's wood (too long “tail” of the bark can then be cut off with a knife).

More often, the cuttings are cut with a knife or a sharp pruner, making a cut 0.5-1 cm below the beginning of the lignification site, which can be seen from the transition from green to brown. From the bottom of the cutting (2.5-4 cm from the base or approximately 2/3), all needles and small lateral branches are removed. The wounds formed on the shoot when they are cut off also stimulate root formation. Try not to damage the apical point of growth at the cutting, otherwise the seedling will grow strongly in the future, especially in golden forms.

prostrate and creeping junipers for reproduction, 2-3 summer shoots can be used, digging them in sand or loose breathable soil for 2/3 of the length. They take root quite quickly (1.5-2 months) and by the end of the season you can get a small bush.

Pre-landing preparation

Chopped cuttings of conifers should be planted in the ground as soon as possible. They are usually not put into water, so that the vessels do not become clogged with escaping resin. If you need to store the cuttings for a while, it is better to sprinkle them with water, wrap damp cloth and place in a bag in a cool place.

Harvested cuttings can be dipped for several hours in a solution of a root formation stimulator, it is even better to powder the cut with stimulant powder before planting in the ground. Various preparations containing salts of beta-indolylacetic acid (IAA), heteroauxin, Kornevin (salts of beta-indolyl-butyric acid), salts are used as root formation stimulants. succinic acid(YAK), Root, Ribav + micrassa, etc. There is evidence that prolonged exposure of conifers in aqueous solutions provokes exfoliation of the bark, therefore, the use of powders for dusting is recommended.

There is also one interesting trick: at the end of the cutting, longitudinal cuts are made with the sharp end of the knife or the base is split to a depth of up to 1 cm, so that a large surface of the cambium is exposed, the cells of which form roots more easily.

Where and how does rooting take place?

Rooting cuttings can take from several months to a year, so it is important to choose and carefully prepare a place for planting harvested cuttings. Best results can be achieved by planting cuttings in boxes with loose, air-intensive soil, for example, in a mixture of sand, coniferous soil and high-moor deoxidized peat in a ratio of 1: 1: 1, which are placed in or in a greenhouse. The best conditions air and substrate temperatures are considered to be 21-24°C and relative humidity air 95-100%. The soil temperature for medium and hard-rooted species (thuja, cypress, yew, spruce, hemlock, pseudo-hemlock) should be 3-5 ° C higher than the air temperature. Low temperature and high humidity can lead to root rot. In warm rack greenhouses with electric heating and fogging installations, the rooting and quality of planting material is 15-25% higher than in cold greenhouses.

In a greenhouse or greenhouse support perfect cleanliness, preventing the formation of moss, ventilate, remove plant debris and dead cuttings. Periodically, plantings are treated with a fungicide solution to prevent decay.

If there are few cuttings, at home you can use a mini-greenhouse or cover containers glass jars, film or plastic bottles cut in half. Also, cuttings are planted in prepared beds in a protected, semi-shady place.

For successful rooting, cuttings need diffused light that is intense enough for photosynthesis and the formation in the needles of a special phytohormone necessary for root formation.

Planting cuttings of conifers

First you need to make a hole with a wooden peg, and then insert the handle vertically or at an angle of 45-50 °, depending on the type mother plant, morphologically, the upper side of the shoot is up, tightly compressing the soil around the cutting. The depth of planting depends on the size of the cutting and the breed. More often planted to a depth of 1-1.5 cm to 2.5-5 cm. The distance between cuttings in rows is 4-7 cm, between rows is 5-10 cm. After planting, the bed is carefully watered through a fine sieve, trying to wet all layers of soil , cover with a frame and shade.

Cutting Care

Planted cuttings require constant care before rooting. Plantings are regularly watered, however, avoiding overflow and stagnation of moisture. The soil should be moderately moist and breathable. A greenhouse or greenhouse needs to be ventilated, and in warm weather plantings are sprayed with water, avoiding overheating above 30 ° C. Periodically, the bed is watered with solutions of fungicide and epin.

Some time after planting, callus (from Latin callus - callus) begins to appear in the lower part of the cutting - a tissue neoplasm on wound surfaces (cracks, incisions, at the base of the cuttings, etc.), which promotes wound healing, consisting of parenchymal cells, having the shape influx (sometimes in the form of a thin layer or "curd"). Then roots appear. However, even with a strong callus, the cuttings may not develop roots and eventually die. Rooting begins in 3-4 months, but the timing is different for different breeds. After the rooting of the cuttings and the formation of growths, the greenhouses begin to gradually open slightly for hardening of young plants. In summer, root formation may slow down, and in September it will continue again.

In junipers, roots form before shoots, in pine, both shoots and roots, and in spruce and larch, shoots first, and then only roots. Callus in spruces and pines appears in the first year, and roots only in the second.

Disembarkation to a permanent place

It is clear that the rooting conditions differ from the requirements of adult plants. Therefore, cuttings are rooted and young plants are grown in a special protected place, then, if desired, they can be placed in containers and only the next year they can be planted on permanent place according to the requirements and habitus of the species and variety. Also, young plants can be left for growing for another 2-3 years, since it is after transplants that the greatest number of attacks often occurs.

We hope our advice will be useful to all novice gardeners and will help make your estates even more beautiful and comfortable.

Victoria Roy
landscape designer
specially for the Internet portal
garden center "Your Garden"

To decorate the territory, landscape designers quite often use in their own compositions coniferous trees. They look great both in individual plantings and in complex plantings. Due to the fact that conifers belong to evergreen plants, the decorativeness of the site remains all year round.

• Pine varieties
• pests
• and Disease Reproduction
• Usage

Non-specialized information about pine

Pine is a long woody plant that belongs to the coniferous family. She has a wonderful root system, the main root has the shape of a rod and goes deep into the ground for a couple of meters, long lateral growths depart from it. In height, some varieties of pines can be about 75 meters.

The trunk is thick, strong, covered with bark, its color is possible from gray to yellow-red, sometimes peeling off. Branches grow from the main trunk and become woody as they grow.

In young areas, needle needles grow in bunches from 2 to 5. Each year, the tree produces many cones, which ripen in a year and throw out many seeds.

Pine trees are long-lived trees and can grow for more than 350 years.

Thanks to the main root, which goes deep into the soil and can extract in that place nutrients for wood, green beautiful woman grows like fertile soils as well as in sandy and rocky areas. Only a couple of species take root in the city, since the main part of the pine varieties has hypersensitivity to air pollution.

Pine varieties

Popular varieties of pine:

• Aristotle pine. It's a long time evergreen tree with bushy top, which reaches a height of no more than 15 meters. Rarely used in decorative purposes to decorate the site, as it requires regular removal of dead needles from the branches. But it looks great in the form of bonsai. It has lovely small buds.
• White pine is mostly seen in Japan. It is a long evergreen tree with straight and few branches and a graceful trunk closely covered with long needles. In height, it can be about 20 meters. This variety is distinguished by the fact that the lower part of the needles is painted in a silvery tone. Cones are medium in size, ovoid.
• White pine. This variety is widely distributed in virtually the entire territory of Eurasia. Whitebark pine forms a low long tree up to 10 meters with a wide, dense and spreading crown up to 7 meters in diameter. It is unpretentious to the soil and the place of growth and perfectly reacts to air pollution and smoke. Based on this, it is quite often possible to meet it in urban and park gardens.
• Mountain pine grows in the form of a tree; in cultural and ornamental plantings, it is used to form a multi-stemmed bush. It is unpretentious to the ground, grows well on the Crimean slopes, keeping them from collapses. Quite often used in ornamental plantings. On an industrial scale, it is used in the woodworking industry.

Care

When choosing a pine planting site, there are a couple of points to consider. This tree is drought-resistant and does not tolerate waterlogging of the earth well. Based on this, it should be planted on well-lit soils with good drainage capacity without groundwater flow.

To soil composition pine is not demanding, but it is necessary that there be a sufficient amount of sand or clay. Before planting, it is recommended to check the soil and, if necessary, add the right amount when digging.

When preparing a hole, it is possible to lay drainage in the form of pebbles or expanded clay on the bottom, and mix soddy soil with clay or sand in proportions of 2: 1.

For the most part, all mature pine specimens tolerate winter and frost very well. But young trees with gentle needles are recommended to be insulated for the cold season. To do this, it is possible to use spruce branches or other ergonomic materials. So that diseases do not appear in the ground and on trees, it is recommended to systematically remove fallen needles under the trees.

This process can be carried out 2 times a year or as needed.

reproduction

Pine is propagated by seeds, cuttings and grafting. For the first method, you need to pick up the mature cone and reach out from it for the grain. This can be done by putting it in a paper bag, which, for its part, should be placed in a warm place.

Shake the container with the contents occasionally. When heated, all the petals of the cone open, and the seeds easily come out of the sinuses.

Before planting, the seeds are treated with stimulants to increase the percentage of germination. The process is carried out in autumn period. They are sown in wet sand to a shallow depth, the container is taken out to a cool room.

Temperature environment maintained within 1-5 degrees. This may be a basement or any second cool room.

In the spring, containers are brought into warm room, and the earth is sifted, extracting seeds.

They are again sown in the prepared loose and light earth, deepening each seed by 2 cm. A greenhouse is made above the crops using glass or film, and the entire container is placed in a bright and warm room. The substrate must be invariably wet, for this it is sometimes necessary to water it with a spray bottle with soft water at a temperature external environment. At the time when shoots appear, the greenhouse can be removed. So that the sprouts do not get sick, it is recommended to treat them with a fungicide solution.

Throughout the season, sprouts are being cared for, it is possible to plant young growth only by autumn, and insulate them with spruce branches for the winter.

When cuttings, all indicators of the mother plant are preserved.

This is one of the most ergonomic ways of propagating conifers, in which it is possible to take a lot of source material from one tree. But propagation of pine cuttings is difficult, a small percentage takes root, and when improper care it is possible to lose all the seedlings.

Pine cuttings:

• Cuttings are carried out in the spring and to obtain the source material choose young tree grown not in wild environment. Young annual branches are selected, which grow upwards. The cutting is taken along with the part of the tree to which it is attached, the so-called heel.
• In order for all the resins to come out of the wood, it is recommended to hold the cuttings for about 3 hours in water, after which process them disinfectants. To enhance root growth, you need to hold the branches in a stimulating solution for about 12 hours.
• A container with a pre-prepared substrate and drainage at the bottom is pre-prepared. The earth should be light and loose; for this, peat is mixed with soddy soil and sand in equal proportions.
• The cuttings are deepened by 4-5 cm, placing them at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
• At the end of planting, you need to organize a greenhouse and add bottom heating. And if for the most part there are no troubles with the first one, then it is quite difficult to organize the correct heating at home.
• Gardeners advise placing containers in boxes with semi-rotten compost, manure, or simple autumn pages. During decomposition, enough temperature is released so that the cuttings acquire heat.
• The cuttings are placed in a lit place, it is possible to root on the street in deliberately prepared beds, for this the compost is laid out under drainage.
• At the end of planting, a greenhouse is built.

The rooting period of the pine is long, therefore, seedlings should not be touched in the initial year after planting. A good root collection will not grow until the end of next autumn, provided that the cuttings were planted in the spring.

Diseases and pests

From pine diseases to decorative plantings blister rust or seryanka is seen much more often. This can be seen from yellow bloom at the ends of the needles. Such trees are not treated, they are removed from the site and destroyed.

In order to prevent the disease, it is necessary for preventive purposes to systematically treat trees with preparations containing copper in the composition.

The most popular pests that can attack a tree are aphids and caterpillars. For the most part, they settle on the edges of young shoots and damage the buds and needles. They can be removed with special insecticides by treating all plants and trees that grow nearby.

Usage

Pine is used in many industries. Its wood has a soft structure, which makes it easy to process and prepare carved decorations for the home, furniture and build houses from it. In addition, this tree is quite often used landscape designers to decorate the area near the house or to make an alpine slide.

Many coniferous trees have medicinal features. Folk recipes quite often include young shoots or pine cones. They make tinctures, medicines and lotions.

Conifers (though not all) allow, as well as layering, root offspring, grafting. At vegetative propagation all parent properties are preserved, and this is a plus.

And the downside is that this method of reproduction is much more difficult and expensive than seed. The easiest way is cuttings.

For grafting, greenhouses, greenhouses are usually used, or a cutting is constructed, which should be located in partial shade.

They have the greatest ability to root during the swelling of the kidneys. At this time, you can cut the cuttings from

• hemlock,
• microbiota,

For cuttings choose two-, three-year-old shoots. it is necessary either in cloudy weather, or in the early morning hours. Cuttings should be taken with a "heel", that is, with a part of the bark.

To do this, you need to take a shoot with a length of 12-15 centimeters closer to the trunk or branch with your hand and pull it sharply up and down. Trim the "heel" and put for a day in the solution "" together with "Zircon" (or at least in a solution of one of them: 1 ampoule per 2 liters of water). The stalk should be immersed in the solution halfway.

The soil for rooting should be fertile, air and moisture permeable, slightly acidic (pH 5-5.5). Peat is best. But for the formation of a callus (a thickening that appears at the lower end of the cutting, from which roots are then formed), the cutting is stuck obliquely, but not into peat or soil, but into a layer of calcined (or at least washed) sand, which is sent over the soil with a layer of about 10 12 centimeters.

It is undesirable to stick the handle directly into the sand, it is better to first make a hole with a pencil or a stick (so that the bark on the handle does not rise up). Cuttings should be planted according to the scheme of 15 x 15 centimeters. On one square meter about 50 cuttings can be placed.

Above the cuttings, you need to put arcs, cover them with a film (or cover each cutting with a half plastic bottle). Spray daily (or put in a "fog" setting), while airing the cuttings, and keep the soil constantly moist, but not waterlogged.

Rooting takes a long time, from a year and a half to a year and a half. In cypress (thuja, juniper), the roots grow first, and then the aerial part begins to grow. In spruce and larch, on the contrary, in pines, the growth of roots and the aerial part occurs simultaneously.

Rooted cuttings can be planted in a year and a half.

Generally speaking, conifers have a great ability to self-defense, they are not damaged much if they are healthy. The most malicious pest are different types of aphids.

You can, of course, treat plants with karbofos in early spring before the flowering of fruit and berry plants, since at the time of their flowering they leave their wintering places beneficial insects- our friends and protectors of plants.

By chance, they can also be destroyed. It is better to use the "Healthy Garden" (against aphids: 6 grains per 1 liter of water), and it is even better to use a protective cocktail, not only on conifers, but on all plants in the garden.

For its preparation, it must be dissolved in 1 liter of water.

• 2-4 grains of "Healthy Garden",
• 2-4 grains of Ecoberin,
• 4 drops
• 4 drops "Uniflora Bud",
• 6-8 drops "Fitoverma".

Spraying should be done regularly 1 time in 3-4 weeks: at the very beginning it is small, at the beginning of June, at the beginning of August, depending on the condition of the plants again at the beginning of September.

You will need

• 1. Cuttings of coniferous crops, for example, any varieties of thuja western, juniper, cypress, at least 3 cuttings from each variety;
• 2. Drainage (expanded clay), 3 l;
• 3. Light fertile soil, better purchased "For conifers", 5-10 l;
• 4. Washed sand, 3 l;
• 5. Planting box with drainage holes;
• 6. Polyethylene film 1 sq.m.;
• 7. Sprayer with very fine spray;
• 8. Preparation for stimulating root formation "Heteroauxin", 1 package;
• 9. Preparation for stimulation of growth processes "Zircon" 1 ampoule;
• 10. Arches for a greenhouse, rubber harness.

Instruction

Learning to make cuttings.
First, they must be removed from young plant, preferably from a tree up to 5 years.
It has long been noted that cuttings from a 2-year-old seedling root by 90%, from a 5-year-old by 50%, and from 10 and older, by only 5-10%. In addition, you need to know where to take the cutting from: the cutting taken from the lower side branch will grow into a low "shaggy" plant, and taken from the upper part of the crown, into a slender plant whose habitus corresponds to the variety. Cuttings can be cut at the end of February or at the end of June, then the rooting process will be optimal.

Preparing a seat. We put drainage-expanded clay in the box, then - soil, on top - a layer of washed river sand 3 cm thick, pour the substrate with boiling water, let it cool.

Preparing cuttings for planting.
We put them for 8-12 hours in a solution of heteroauxin (200 mg) + zircon (4 drops) per 1 liter. water (stimulates root formation and helps wash off the resin from the cut).
We remove the needles up to half of the cutting so that it does not rot when in contact with the substrate, make holes with a pencil and insert the branches into the ground, lightly press it with our fingers.
Please note, this is important - as you removed the branch, orient it in the ground, do not turn it over back side up!

We spray the cuttings and build a greenhouse over them with the help of polyethylene, arcs and rubber strapping.
Do not forget to regularly spray the cuttings with ordinary water in the greenhouse (2-6 times a day), each time tightly closing it after this procedure.
Within a month, once a week, spray the cuttings with a solution of "Zircon" (2 drops per 1 liter of water, do not exceed the dose!), Which stimulates the development of roots and improves plant immunity. Please note that Zircon decomposes quickly in the light, so spray it with a minimum of light.

If you cut conifers in February, then leave the greenhouse until May in the light (mandatory condition!), But not the south. Then you can leave the greenhouse at home, you can move it to the garden, in partial shade (which is more favorable for rooting). If a

To decorate the territory, landscape designers often use coniferous trees in their compositions. They look great both in individual plantings and in complex plantings. Due to the fact that conifers are evergreens, the decorative effect of the site remains all year round.

Pine trees are long-lived trees and can grow for more than 350 years.

Thanks to the main root, which goes deep into the ground and can get nutrients for the tree there, the green beauty grows like a fertile lands as well as in sandy and rocky areas. Only a few species take root in the city, since the main part of the pine varieties has an increased sensitivity to air pollution.

Popular varieties of pine:

• Aristotle pine. This is a perennial evergreen tree with a bushy upper part, which reaches a height of no more than 15 meters. It is rarely used for decorative purposes to decorate the site, as it requires regular removal of dead needles from the branches. But it looks great in the form of bonsai. It has beautiful small buds.
• White pine is mainly found in Japan. This is a perennial evergreen tree with a straight and graceful trunk and a few branches densely covered with long needles. In height, it can reach 20 meters. This variety is distinguished by the fact that the lower part of the needles is painted in a silvery tone. Cones are medium in size, ovoid.
• White pine. This variety is widely distributed throughout almost the entire territory of Eurasia. Whitebark pine forms a low perennial tree up to 10 meters with a wide, dense and spreading crown up to 7 meters in diameter. It is unpretentious to the place of growth and soil and responds well to smoke and air pollution. Therefore, it can often be found in parks and city gardens.
• Mountain pine grows in the form of a tree; in cultural and ornamental plantings, it is used to form a multi-stemmed bush. It is unpretentious to the soil, grows well on the Crimean slopes, keeping them from collapses. Often used in ornamental plantings. On an industrial scale, it is used in the woodworking industry.

When choosing a pine planting site, there are several points to consider. This tree is drought-resistant and does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil. Therefore, it must be planted on well-lit lands with good drainage system without groundwater flow.

Pine is not demanding on the soil composition, but it is desirable that there is a sufficient amount of sand or clay. Before planting, it is recommended to check the ground and, if necessary, add the required amount when digging.

When preparing a hole, you can lay drainage in the form of pebbles or expanded clay on the bottom, and mix soddy soil with clay or sand in proportions of 2: 1.

Basically, all adult specimens of pines tolerate winter and frost well. But young trees with delicate needles are recommended to be insulated for the cold season. To do this, you can use spruce or other comfortable materials. To prevent diseases in the soil and on trees, it is recommended to regularly remove fallen needles under the trees. This process can be carried out 2 times a year or as needed.

Pine reproduces with the help of seeds, grafting and. For the first method, you need to take a mature cone and get the grains out of it. This can be done by placing it in a paper bag, which in turn is placed in a warm place. Shake the container with the contents periodically. When heated, all the petals of the cone open, and the seeds easily come out of the sinuses.

Before planting, they are treated with stimulants to increase the percentage of germination. The process is carried out in the autumn. They are sown in wet sand to a shallow depth, the container is taken out to a cool room. The air temperature is maintained within 1-5 degrees of heat. It can be a basement or any other cool room.

In the spring, the containers are brought into a warm room, and the soil is sifted, taking out the seeds.

They are sown again in prepared loose and light soil, deepening each seed by 2 cm. A greenhouse is made over the crops using glass or film, and the entire container is placed in a bright and warm room. The substrate must be constantly wet, for this it is necessary to periodically water it with a spray bottle with soft water at ambient temperature. When shoots appear, the greenhouse can be removed. So that the sprouts do not get sick, it is recommended to treat them with a fungicide solution. Throughout the season, sprouts are being taken care of, young growth can be planted only by autumn, and for the winter they can be insulated with spruce branches.

When cuttings, all the signs of the mother plant are preserved.

This is one of the most convenient ways to propagate conifers, in which a large amount of source material can be taken from one tree. But propagation by cuttings is difficult, a small percentage takes root, and with improper care, you can lose all the seedlings.

Pine cuttings:

• carried out in the spring and to obtain the source material, a young tree grown not in the wild is chosen. Young annual branches are selected that grow upwards. The cutting is taken along with the part of the tree to which it is attached, the so-called heel.
• In order for all the resins to come out of the wood, it is recommended to hold the cuttings for about 3 hours in water, and then treat them with disinfectants. To enhance root growth, it is necessary to hold the branches in a stimulating solution for about 12 hours.
• A container with a pre-prepared substrate and drainage at the bottom is pre-prepared. The soil should be light and loose; for this, peat is mixed with sand and soddy soil in equal proportions.
• The cuttings are deepened by 4-5 cm, placing them at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
• After landing, it is necessary to organize and add bottom heating. And if there are basically no problems with the first, then it is quite difficult to organize proper heating at home.
• Gardeners recommend placing containers in boxes with semi-rotted compost, manure or ordinary autumn leaves. The decomposition process releases enough heat to keep the cuttings warm.
• The cuttings are placed in a lighted place, they can be rooted on the street in specially prepared beds, for this the compost is laid out under drainage.
• After planting, a greenhouse is built.

The rooting period of pine is long, so do not touch the seedlings in the first year after planting. Good root system will grow only by the end of next autumn, provided that the cuttings were planted in the spring.

Of the diseases of pines in decorative plantings, blister rust or seryanka is most often found. This can be seen by the yellow coating at the ends of the needles. Such trees are not treated, they are removed from the site and destroyed.

To prevent the disease, it is necessary for preventive purposes to regularly treat trees with preparations containing copper in the composition.

The most common pests that can attack a tree are aphids and caterpillars. They mainly settle on the edges of young shoots and damage the buds and needles. They can be removed with special insecticides by treating all trees and plants that grow nearby.

applied in many industries. Its wood has a soft structure, which makes it easy to process it and make carved home decorations, furniture and even build houses from it. Also, this tree is often used by landscape designers to decorate the area near the house or to make an alpine slide.

Many coniferous trees have medicinal properties. Folk recipes often include young shoots or pine cones. They make tinctures, medicines and lotions.

More information can be found in the video.