Pruning a young apple tree - even a beginner can do it! How to prune an apple tree in autumn for a good harvest

Growing garden trees is a constant care, concern and a large number of attention to seedlings. Without these components, tree health and high yields are impossible. Without a doubt, the apple tree is one of the most beloved fruit trees, which provides gardeners with fruits of different colors and tastes. For juicy and useful fruits periodically pruning of apple trees is required - an important process that, with the wrong technology, can cause a lot of harm.

Carrying out such garden work is an important part in the process of growing a fruit tree. They are carried out for many reasons that affect the fruiting and health of the shoots. Removing the central branches is necessary to form the correct crown of the apple tree. Broken, diseased and damaged branches are removed in order for the proper development of new shoots to occur. It is also necessary to remove competitive processes that take strength and nutrition. Thus, the apple tree is preparing for a long winter period.

pruning apple trees

Before you begin work, you need to familiarize yourself with the different ways to eliminate unnecessary branches on an apple tree. At comprehensive care fruit plantations will delight with a rich yield every year.

Taking care of this tree consists of several activities: applying fertilizer mixtures, loosening the soil, weeding and watering, as well as an extremely important procedure for eliminating unnecessary branches.

Methods and degree of pruning apple trees

It is possible to carry out a shaping, sanitary, rejuvenating and regulating procedure. Shaping is required to create a strong fruit tree skeleton, on which only strong and healthy branches will grow. Sanitary procedures clear plantings from cross and downward growing branches. During rejuvenation, old branches are eliminated, and during regulation, the growth of the fruit tree is restrained, shading is removed.

Also, sometimes pinching is required, which is weak, medium and strong. This action is carried out if there has been an active development of green shoots. With a weak pinch, one quarter of the skeletal branches are removed, with an average pinch, one third. This only applies to mature fruit trees that have been growing for more than five years. With heavy pruning, many of the central branches are completely removed for rebirth, and the lower branches are also eliminated.

Required Tools

Without required set tools and materials will not be able to carry out any garden work. You will need the following fixtures:

Hacksaws with teeth of different sizes.
Manual pruner - for removing small shoots.
Leather gloves - to protect against mechanical damage.
Ladder - for tall fruit trees.
If necessary, an electric saw.

You also need to remember that all tools must be clean and sharp enough. It is not recommended to leave uneven incisions, as such wounds will take a long time to heal. Bacteria can also easily get into them. harmful insects. After work, all tools and the surface of the cuts must be processed.

How to prune an apple tree

Branches are removed standard scheme. For the first run, you need to eliminate all broken, damaged shoots and dry branches. The crown of the apple tree is also thinned out a little - it is cut off top part large trunk with other shoots. The cut is carried out along the influx ring.

This action must be tried to be carried out so that the apple tree can heal the wound in a certain way with its bark. Otherwise, stumps may remain, which will dry out and rot over time. And in the voids, fungus and harmful insects can easily settle, which contribute to the development of diseases.

And we must remember that after all the work carried out, fresh incisions are processed using antiseptics.

Pruning by season

In addition to important knowledge and skills, you need to know the specific terms for which all garden work is carried out. Work begins in the spring, around April, and lasts until the buds open.

On a note! At the beginning of summer, it is better to carry out sanitary removal. It is also considered a good time autumn time when there are no leaves and fruits.

spring

If you correctly carry out spring work, then in new season the tree will bear good fruit. The formation of an apple tree must be carried out as follows:

remove frozen and broken branches;
eliminate branches that are affected by diseases;
remove cross branches that grow inward;
rejuvenate old trees;
adjust the growth of the upper branches - they should be shorter than the middle and lower ones.

If last year the tree did not excel big harvest, then the pruning must be carried out quite strong.

Summer

Summer pruning of fruit-bearing trees is not recommended, since harmful insects are extremely active during this period. Therefore, only easy job at the very beginning of summer or the end of May, to eliminate competing shoots. To do this, you need to eliminate all the fragile shoots that are located at the very top of the old branches. The processes, which are located somewhat lower, must be left for the future skeleton. Extra details need to be removed.

Diseased and cracked branches are also removed. With the right work done, you can achieve high yield. Pinching is necessary to weaken and stop the growth of shoots that are more than 15 centimeters long. The bending method can positively affect the fruiting process.

autumn

Autumn work in the garden is carried out after the leaves have fallen, and the tree begins to overwinter. The main range of work is the removal of damaged and old branches. Also, all branches on which there was no fruiting are removed, if there were few fruits or they were Bad quality. You should also eliminate the branches due to which shading occurs, and those processes that have sprouted at an acute angle. After all the work, the cut points are treated with a special pitch or oil paint.

The nuances of pruning apple trees of different ages

When pruning a young fruit tree, you should set yourself the task of providing good conditions for the further development of the apple tree. Pruning of old trees is carried out to enhance fruiting, eliminate crown defects and save strength for growth. It is also carried out to eliminate diseases and insects.

During this period, the gardener faces several tasks: periodically cut the central shoots to restrain their growth and the proper development of side branches. And also the lower section of the trunk is formed. The first pruning is done in a year. After cutting the central shoot at the "top", the growth of lateral branches begins to increase. It is necessary to shorten the long skeletal branches by 15 centimeters. Then you need to start forming the correct lower section. All young shoots that grow 40 centimeters from the ground must be removed.

biennial apple tree

Pruning in the second year is required to form tiers of skeletal branches. If the branches have not yet been cut, then each tier will have at least two large branches, and the distance between them is about 50 centimeters. You will need to shorten the skeletal branches so that they are approximately at the same level. If the gardener wants to form a rounded shape, then the removal of the central shoot will be required. You need to cut over the first branch.

adult apple tree

To rejuvenate an adult apple tree, you will need to shorten the branches. To begin with, sanitary removal is carried out. After cleansing the apple tree, you need to rejuvenate the fruit tree. Cut off old branches that no longer produce high quality apples. It is also required to remove vertical shoots that do not benefit, but only take strength. Then the crossed branches, basal shoots and branches growing down are removed.

The final action consists of shortening the stem. High-growing trees can be shortened up to 3 meters.

Attention! If the tree is more than 8 years old, a similar procedure is distributed over a couple of years.

Features of pruning a dwarf apple tree

If you produce a rootstock of a dwarf apple tree, then such a tree will give abundant harvests and begin fruiting much earlier. If you do not prune a dwarf fruit tree, then general term its fruiting is often reduced to 3-4 years.

In the first year of life, the crown skeleton is formed, which is facilitated by trunk pruning. The height of the cut directly depends on the variety of the fruit tree, but often the cut is no more than 70 centimeters. A cut of side shoots is also required so that the tree, as a result, looks like a ball.

The upper branches usually need to be shortened to promote the growth and development of the central shoots, as the branches begin to develop more strongly at the top of the fruit tree. However, on dwarf rootstocks, the branches are almost never completely cut out if they are healthy. They need to leave several kidneys. It is also worth remembering the fruiting of the tree - during this period, the whole process should be carefully regulated and some buds should be removed. Otherwise, you can overload the apple tree and allow the branches to break off.

The specifics of pruning an apple tree of a columnar variety

The columnar apple tree is inherent unusual shape crowns. As a rule, the width of the tree is about 50 centimeters. Regular pruning is not required, but sometimes such procedures are worth doing. Frequent problem there is damage to the top of the columnar apple tree due to frost or pests. In this case, you need to find a replacement for the central shoot - choose a strong branch. Other vertical shoots will need to be cut along with the crown. To avoid this, the center is wrapped up for the winter.

In the first year, as a rule, no intervention is required. However, as they grow, young shoots appear that compete with fruit-bearing branches and take nutrients from them. At this time, the intervention of the gardener is required:

young shoots are pinched at the same distance from the trunk (20 centimeters);
as it grows, the pinch is 35 centimeters;
already from the fourth year old branches are gradually removed.

The specifics of pruning such an apple tree is that with periodic pinching, pruning is not required. This process is gentle, the tree is not stressed.

Further care

After cutting action fruit trees need to be watered and fed. During spring pruning, fertilizer mixtures are introduced into the near-stem circle, which include nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

During the period autumn pruning complementary foods are introduced, which contain potassium and phosphorus, since the tree will need healing and strengthening. Nitrogen mixtures are not added during this period.

When applying fertilizer mixtures, you will need to follow all the instructions and rules. If too much fertilizer is added, then the tree will do more harm than good.

Due attention and care must be given to each garden tree, and the young - doubly.

This also applies to pruning.

Having planted a seedling in the soil, the gardener is responsible for its crown to form correctly.

By timely removing unnecessary branches, you can create a lush crown with a large and quality harvest.

CAREFULLY! Incorrect pruning actions can lead to a weakening of the apple tree and deprive the harvest for the coming autumn.

Pruning a young apple tree in spring

Removal of unnecessary branches of young apple trees is carried out in the first year after planting.

sticking to certain rules, pruning occurs after growth stops. This phase can be determined along the formed apical bud of the shoot. At this time, nutrients will completely stop the outflow from the leaves to the root.

The best month for pruning is October. The leaves at this time do not fall yet, they only change their color. Until steady cold sets in, keeps dry and warm weather, wounds on trees will heal faster.

Cut off damaged, dry branches. Using garden var or oil paint , gloss over the place of the cut.

Pruning to form the crown of young apple trees is not recommended. Shortened annual growths and branches may freeze slightly.

Forming a crown, strong pruning should not be carried out. Annual growths are enriched with nutrients, and a young apple tree may lose them. This will weaken the growth process, worsen the ovary, which will lead to fruit shedding.

This process should be carried out in dry cloudy weather, choosing the right day according to the lunar calendar.

Autumn pruning of young apple trees: video tutorials

See how to properly prune a young apple tree in the fall: video and practical tips.

Pruning young apple trees in autumn - a video for beginners. See the basic rules for fruit trees:

Pruning young columnar apple trees

The correct form of columnar apple trees is maintained throughout their life.

When pruning an apple tree, you need to remember the main rule is not to cut many branches at once. must be timely.

Radical pruning is subject to the upper part of the tree to provide the entire crown with sunlight.

In order for a young apple tree to have a beautiful crown and give a generous harvest of fruits every year, you need to take care of it and regularly prune it.

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Apple tree in the photo

The apple tree is the most common fruit tree in Russian gardens, which is partly why it is considered a kind of "model" for cropping. The principles, techniques and rules for pruning apple trees, pears and other pome fruits, as well as stone fruits, are largely similar.

Proper planting of a seedling and caring for it is the first half of success. The second is the competent formation of the crown of a young apple tree. In most cases, sanitary pruning is carried out, its purpose is to remove damaged shoots and roots. If a root system is poorly developed, then the shoots must be shortened in order to equalize the aboveground and underground parts and increase the chances of the tree to live in a new place. If planting or transplanting a tree is carried out in the fall, then pruning (with the exception of sanitary) in without fail set aside for the next spring, so as not to reduce the winter hardiness of the plant. If the seedling has not completed leaf fall, then he will have to help - remove the leaves manually or with a pruner.

Before you properly prune young apple trees, keep in mind that its degree depends on the age, variety and condition of the seedling. Usually these are annual, biennial, three-year-old trees. An annual seedling should have a mature stem and a normally formed apical bud. It should not have leaves.

Large-sized birds take root very poorly, and if they survive at all, they are delayed in development for a long time. The reasons for this are most often objective. Transportation, abrupt change of conditions - the strongest stressful situations for big plant. The problem is exacerbated by the location of nurseries, as they tend to be located where the trees grow faster, that is, in areas with a milder climate. As a result, your large apple tree may be at risk of winter damage.

With proper pruning, a young apple tree often forms a sparse-tiered or tiered crown - they are easy to maintain and fit biological features trees. Most often, a sparse-tiered and tiered crown is chosen for trees on vigorous and medium-sized rootstocks. The difference is that in a tiered crown, all the branches extending from the trunk are skeletal and enter the tiers, while the sparse-tiered crown is less “strict”, and the tiers of branches alternate with semi-skeletal branches extending from the trunk.

Before you properly form the crown of a young apple tree, familiarize yourself with the sequence of actions proposed below, or, as fruit growers say, with the procedure for removing the crown.

With the normal development of the tree, every year, starting from the second year of the tree's life, a new tier of 3-5 branches is laid. If the length of the leader or the continuation shoot is insufficient, the laying of the next tier is postponed a year later.

Look at the photo, how to properly prune an apple tree in young age:

Creating several tiers when pruning and shaping apple trees is a somewhat cyclical process. To stimulate branching and good development of future skeletal branches, the top of the continuation shoot is shortened and this operation is repeated when laying each next tier. The distance between the tiers depends on the type of rootstock and the characteristics of the variety (for trees on a dwarf rootstock it is less than for vigorous trees) and is 50-70 cm, the upper tiers can be placed a little closer to each other (the lower limit is 40 cm). When pruning and shaping apple trees optimal distance between branches included in one tier is 20-30 cm. Branches in adjacent tiers should not be located one above the other. The central conductor or continuation shoot should be 15-20 cm higher than the branches of the last tier (in practice, this means that its top should be that much higher), and, if necessary, the branches and (or) the central conductor are shortened.

The decision on how to form a crown at an apple tree and how many tiers to make is made by the gardener himself, guided by the convenience of harvesting and carrying out agrotechnical measures.

The video of pruning a young apple tree shows how to form a seedling:

Usually, when pruning to form the crown of an apple tree, 3-4 tiers are laid, in this case the height of the tree on a vigorous rootstock is about 4 m, on a dwarf rootstock - 2-2.5 m. When the tree reaches the desired height, growth is limited - the central conductor is cut out on translation.

An annual seedling looks like a thin twig with roots, less often with the first thin branches, it depends on the variety and how the seedling was cared for in the nursery. The "fat" and powerfully branching one-year-old seedling is either overfed with fertilizers or was grown in the southern regions.

Its winter hardiness middle lane problematic enough. If necessary, perform sanitary pruning - both the above-ground part and the root system. If the seedling is purchased with an open root system, it is especially important to equalize the underground and aboveground parts.

Pruning of annual apple tree seedlings after planting is carried out at a height of 80-100 cm in order to stimulate the growth of lateral branches - these are the future skeletal branches of the first tier.

All buds and branches (if any) from ground level to the first tier of skeletal branches are removed - this is the bole zone. A stem that is too low will hinder tillage, harvesting, and other operations, while a stem that is too high can suffer from sunburn.

If the seedling already has branches, then when pruning an annual apple tree, we outline those that will create the first tier - there should be 3-5 of them, directed towards different sides. If there are no branches yet, then 5-8 buds are added to form the first tier (this amount is taken with a margin). One more kidney is left - it should be located above the tier and look in the direction opposite to the bend in the budding zone, so that in the future the trunk is even. A continuation shoot will grow from this bud - it will replace the leader shoot, and in order for the trunk to be even, it is tied to a peg. It is possible to leave a spike from the removed leader shoot as a temporary support, and cut it off completely when the continuation shoot is fixed in a vertical position.

In the process of properly pruning an annual apple tree, all branches that form an acute angle with the trunk are removed, the rest are shortened by 3-5 buds. This is done for them. better development and branches.

These photos show how to prune an apple tree at one year of age:

Pruning and shaping the crown of a seedling of a two-year-old apple tree (with video)

A two-year-old seedling begins to branch without fail. When pruning and forming the crown of a two-year-old apple tree, a strong shoot is grown from the uppermost bud, which will become a continuation of the leader shoot - it is better to tie it up so that the emerging stem is even. If there are competing shoots at the top of the seedling, they are either removed while they are still small, or carefully bent and fixed. Branches extending from the trunk at an angle of less than 45 degrees are not a suitable candidate for the role of skeletal ones: they can be cut out, or you can try to bend them with the help of spacers and stretch marks. While the branches are thin and flexible, optimize the angle of their departure from the trunk. The older the tree, the more difficult it is to do this, and in an adult tree it is simply impossible.

Any fixation of the branches in the desired position must be mobile so that the crown is not broken by the wind - but also strong enough to achieve the desired result. For the winter, spacers and stretch marks are removed, and in the spring, if necessary, they are returned to their place.

When pruning seedlings of a two-year-old apple tree, branches growing between tiers can be shortened and bent at an obtuse angle, then they will give the first fruits faster. Subsequently, they are removed if a longline crown is selected.

The side branches of a young apple tree are left, even if they are to be removed in the future. This approach contributes to the formation of a downward expanding and, as a result, stable trunk. Extra branches when pruning a two-year-old apple tree are removed gradually. First, they are shortened, and after a year or two, when the tree has enough other branches and leaves, they are completely cut out.

Shoots that will have to turn into skeletal branches are shortened to stimulate branching. The degree depends on the condition of the branches and their planned length - the bottom branches should end up being the longest, so they are often cut more heavily than the top ones. And although at first the crown will be, as it were, “inverted”, further growth of the shoots will put everything in its place, since strong shoots will grow on a heavily pruned branch. Small branches extending from the skeletal branches are preserved - these are overgrown, on which the crop will form in the future.

The video "Pruning a two-year-old apple tree" shows how this work is done:

How to prune three-year-old apple trees in spring

A three-year-old tree branches "in all directions", and new skeletal branches are also laid in it. The branches of the first tier, planted last year, are covered with branches of the 2nd order. If necessary, remove or bend the branches. Lay the second tier at a distance of 50-70 cm from the first - so that the branches of the second tier are in between the branches of the first tier.

When pruning three-year-old apple trees, we follow the rule of subordination of branches - the higher the branch is located, the shorter it should be - this is the only way the entire crown will be evenly illuminated. Branches of subsequent orders should be shorter and located lower (the conductor is 15-20 cm higher than the branches of the 1st order, the overgrown branches are shorter than the branches of the 1st and 2nd order). The crown of the tree should fit into an isosceles triangle with its base facing the ground; ideally, each skeletal branch also fits into an isosceles triangle with its base facing the trunk. The branches of one tier are usually equalized, that is, pruning of the branches of a three-year-old apple tree in spring is done at the same height. If the height of the branches is not the same, then the one whose growth point is higher grows more actively. This technique can be used to stimulate or limit the growth of individual branches in a tier.

And what is the right way to prune apple trees at the age of three, if the branching of the trees is active and good growth is observed? In this case, you can cut the branches scheduled for removal in the previous season.

Technique for pruning a four- and five-year-old apple tree

The pruning technique for a four-year-old apple tree is carried out in a similar way: the third tier is laid, excess branches are removed.

And how to do spring pruning of apple trees that have reached the age of five? A five-year-old tree is considered to be formed, at this age modern varieties usually bear fruit, from this moment the tree can be called an adult. It has 3-4 beautiful and durable tiers. Often the tree has already reached the desired height. If necessary, its further upward growth can be limited. To do this, with the correct pruning of apple trees, the central conductor is removed by pruning for translation - on a well-located branch. If the height of the tree is insufficient, we lay one tier per year until the result satisfies us, and only then we cut out the central conductor.

Remember that the indicated sequence of actions when pruning young apple trees for beginner gardeners is only a guide, and not a hard set of rules. If for some reason the tree develops poorly, then it is not scary to postpone the laying of tiers or pruning a year or two later, and during this time to eliminate shortcomings in agricultural technology.

Pruning and shaping the crown of young apple trees: videos and tips for beginners

Cupped (or vase-shaped) crown shape is quite popular. Its removal is very simple - one tier of branches is laid at the desired height (usually the stem is low, no more than 50 cm, and in a tier there are 3-4 branches arranged symmetrically) and the central conductor is removed. At the apple tree, it is cut out as early as possible (for stone fruits, after 2-4 years). To make the bowl beautiful, you will need a lot of space and, perhaps, a garter of branches. Usually such a crown is chosen for trees on dwarf rootstocks. Its advantage is good sun exposure. Further actions apple tree crown formation is quite simple - timely removal of tops that will often appear on skeletal branches, as well as extra branches, especially those directed inside the crown, sanitary pruning. It should be remembered about the rule of subordination when laying the branches of skeletal branches - the closer to the trunk, the longer the branches should be.

In English gardens, you can often find apple trees that have only one tier of skeletal branches, and the central conductor has been removed. Since trees are usually densely planted in the orchard, the skeletal branches will sooner or later begin to grow upwards. It turns out not a bowl, but rather, a "glass" on a high leg, and not always symmetrical, but not without charm.

To improve the illumination of the adult crown, some of the branches are sometimes removed so that the crown, rounded in plan, becomes lobed.

The spindle-shaped crown, or spindlebush, is easy to breed and quite spectacular. Semi-skeletal branches are laid on the trunk, arranging them in a spiral, and the height of the tree is usually limited to 3 m. With the help of stretch marks, the branches are given close to horizontal position(in different modifications, the angle of departure of the branches may be smaller, and the length is different). This type of crown is only suitable for trees on low-growing rootstocks.

A slender spindle, or grusbek, is also a compact crown. It is displayed on a low trunk, the central conductor is usually cut out at a height of 2.5 m, and the entire crown is formed by short horizontal overgrowing branches. Outwardly, this form resembles a columnar apple tree and is suitable for trees on dwarf rootstocks.

In harsh conditions, for example, in Siberia, it is necessary to increase the winter hardiness of fruit trees by any means.

And how to prune apple trees of dwarf varieties? In such trees, the crown is formed in a bushy form (6-8 skeletal branches, the lower ones are located in one tier, the rest are singly, all branches of the second order are shortened).

Because in harsh winters the damage to the stem is the most dangerous, then the most common is a low-stem bushy crown with a stem height of no more than 30 cm. In this case, the snow cover becomes a natural shelter, a “warm blanket”.

The slate form is used in the most severe climatic conditions. It is characterized by the absence of a pronounced trunk and horizontally located skeletal branches, literally lying on the ground. Such a crown completely hibernates under a snow cover.

The video "Pruning apple trees for beginners" clearly demonstrates how to form a crown of trees:

Artificial types of crown formation in apple trees

Mold gardening is the creation of artificial crown forms with high decorative qualities. They can be either flat (palmettes, cordons) or voluminous, often symmetrical. Artificial crown forms are associated with gardens in a regular style (for example, in England a rare brick wall is not decorated with fruit or decorative tree, formed in the form of a palmette or cordon, and in France, artificial forms often adorn the famous French ornamental gardens with beds bordered by boxwood borders).

In addition to decorating the walls, artificial forms make it possible to achieve fruiting from more southern varieties (a brick wall accumulates heat and creates a favorable microclimate, a concrete wall, on the contrary, is very cold and contributes to the freezing of plants). Artificial forms usually bear fruit faster than traditional ones, and although the total number of fruits is not always large, all fruits are of excellent quality, because they receive a lot of sun. This is a great solution for a garden or a fragment of it in a regular style - or just a highlight of your site. Several identical flat shapes (trees can be different varieties) on a common frame - a variant of a compact green wall for zoning the garden space.

For shaped gardening, only trees on dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstocks are suitable, and always with an annular type of fruiting. They will need regular pruning, most often several times a season, and a reliable frame for life, because for all their beauty, such forms do not resist the elements well. Branches that protrude beyond the crown are shortened, cut or tied in the desired direction. To control the strength of growth and for better branching, annual growths are regularly pinched. The branch is usually removed in parts, since the number of leaves in artificial forms, especially at a young age, is small.

Artificial forms of the crown can also be voluminous, from an apple tree you can even create a covered alley - berso.

We can say that such types of apple tree formation in horticulture are akin to Japanese art bonsai, but, unlike him, seeks not to imitate nature, but, on the contrary, to subdue it, although the techniques are very similar, the main one being pinching. By the way, Japanese and Chinese masters create bonsai from fruit trees, this is considered a sign of high professionalism.

In the palmette, all branches are located in the same plane, and their direction can be from horizontal to oblique and articulated, the number of tiers also varies depending on the type. Palmettes are usually symmetrical crown variants with a well-defined central conductor. Each tier of branches needs a horizontal frame element, most often it is a thick wire or a strong rail.

A cordon is a straight trunk (it can also be inclined), as if running along a stretched rope (the name of the form comes from the French corde - rope), covered with a small number of short overgrown branches. Cordons are compact, so a whole collection can be placed in a relatively small area. Outwardly, the cordons are somewhat reminiscent of columnar apple trees, but the former have a compact habitus due to regular pruning, the latter due to their biological characteristics.

It is not always possible to achieve perfect symmetry artificial form using pruning. Vaccination comes to the rescue - if there is no kidney or shoot in the right place, then it can be artificially grown.

For stone fruit crops, a strict crown plane is undesirable, therefore, skeletal branches are oriented, as a rule, at an angle of 15-20 degrees to the row line.

Proper pruning of an adult apple tree in spring

Finally, your tree is already mature and has begun to bear fruit. At this stage, it is especially important to extend its "full life" and increase productivity. Ideally, the period of supporting or regulating pruning of adult apple trees lasts for decades.

This type of pruning keeps the crown in the right size, fights its thickening, regulates the light and air conditions, prevents branches from being exposed, especially in the central part, and thereby increases the laying of fruit formations.

It is important to carry out maintenance pruning of adult apple trees regularly in the spring. They paused - and the growth of the tree is out of control, you have to cut a lot and hard, after which the struggle begins - you cut, and the tree stubbornly strives to return the lost volume, for example, forms a lot of tops. As a result, both you and the tree expend a lot of energy.

The normalization of flowers and ovaries also applies to maintenance pruning. Plants always lay flowers "in reserve", in some years only every tenth flower becomes a fruit. Therefore, the ovary trees are shed - first of all, unfertilized and damaged ones. If the dimensions of the tree allow and if you have enough patience, you can normalize the ovaries - removing some of them. As a result, there will be fewer fruits, but they will be larger and of better quality, and the tree will save its strength. The normalization of flowers is carried out during full blooming (although many gardeners are very sorry to destroy the apple blossom with their own hands), the normalization of the ovaries is carried out as early as possible, immediately after flowering. You can completely remove the flowers and ovaries on part of the inflorescences, you can leave the best and most developed in each inflorescence. In the apple tree, this is the central flower in the inflorescence.

When the crop is large, the branches may not withstand the load and break, especially old varieties with periodic fruiting suffer.

The best treatment is prevention, so the supports are placed in advance, while the fruits are still small. After harvesting, the supports are removed.

Watch a video on how to prune an apple tree as an adult:

Tips for proper anti-aging pruning of an old apple tree (with photo and video)

If a young tree formed correctly, then for many years he will only need sanitary and supporting pruning - removing extra branches and limiting the dimensions of the crown. However, sooner or later there comes a point when the tree begins to age.

The signal for rejuvenating pruning of old apple trees is the reduction in the length of annual growths. For trees on vigorous rootstocks, the critical value is 15 cm. If the tree is mature and bears fruit regularly, it consumes great amount forces for fruiting, and growth is "financed on a residual basis", so the length of annual increments decreases. AT running case young fruit formations no longer arise, and the old ones have exhausted their resource - you will be left without fruits, and an oppressed and weakened tree may die. The task of the gardener is to help the tree maintain an optimal balance between growth and fruiting.

Many trees are trying to "regain lost youth" on their own with the help of spinning tops. If the tops are well located, you can form new branches from them, and gradually remove the old ones.

However, in most cases, the tree needs serious help. As usual, first they carry out sanitary pruning of old apple trees, then rejuvenating. To do this, the branches are shortened to the site where the length of the growth was full, and the bare and unproductive ones are also cut out. With a high probability, the tree will respond to such an intervention with the rapid growth of tops, especially near the cuts - sleeping buds will wake up. This is what they are trying to achieve - now it is possible to form new, young and strong branches from the strongest and most well-located tops. The rest of the tops, with the correct pruning of old apple trees, are removed, and the sooner the better. In case of doubt, you can pinch the growing top and decide its fate during spring pruning next year.

As you can see in the photo of pruning old apple trees, many large branches are removed during this work:

Therefore, it makes sense to stretch such rejuvenation for 2-3 seasons. You should not save on watering and top dressing, in addition, young growths should be carefully and regularly examined - a tasty morsel for various sucking and leaf-eating pests.

Sick trees with severe damage to the trunk and skeletal branches do not rejuvenate.

Another tip for pruning an old apple tree is to combine a rejuvenating crown shaping with a rejuvenating root pruning. To do this, along the periphery of the crown, they dig a trench 30-40 cm deep and 40-50 cm wide and fill it fertile soil and organic fertilizers and watered regularly. As a result, many young, actively working roots are formed in this zone.

The task of restorative pruning is to restore the ability to bear fruit. For this, new fruit-bearing branches are brought up for several years, mainly by pruning for translation into horizontal branches, and then the old ones are removed.

Watch the video "Pruning old apple trees" to better understand how to care for such trees:

How to prune an old apple tree

What to do if you, along with the site, got an old tree that has not seen a pruner or a hacksaw for a long time or at all? How to cut old apple tree to prolong its life?

You can leave everything as it is. In nature, trees without any pruning live to an advanced age. But still, pruning is a way to improve the health and longevity of a tree, as well as a way to give it a presentable appearance. In neglected orchards, many fruit trees look like a "nest" of closely spaced branches on a high stem. Their crown is raised high, so that in trunk circles light penetrated, and something else could be grown under the apple tree. Especially often such a picture can be seen in small areas.

Before pruning an old apple tree, you need to give an abandoned tree a decent look, and for this you must first remove all the "dangerous" branches. After that, proceed to sanitary pruning. Slowly, gradually cut off all the diseased and dead. Focus on the middle of the crown - there are usually a lot of dry branches hiding there. As a rule, in neglected old trees, sanitary pruning is large-scale, and upon its completion, amazing changes occur in the crown.

In the next step, to prune the old apple tree, you need to remove the extra branches. There is no need to rush here. It is better to pause, take your mind off the tree and do other things. Perhaps even postponing everything until the next season, this has its advantages. Sometimes it is important not to overdo it - perhaps you should make an exception to the rule for some specific branches - in order to subsequently strengthen a weak branch, direct pruning to translate the further growth of the branch in the right direction, leave a spinning top to grow a fruit-bearing branch from it. It is quite possible that pruning will have to be extended over two or three seasons (no more than a quarter of the branches are removed in one year). The decision will have to be made for each specific cut.

Therefore, it is better to clean off lichens from the trunk and skeletal branches. The easiest way to do this is after rain - they are easily scraped off with a thick mitten or a dull knife. In addition, when the old bark is removed before autumn whitewashing, lichens are automatically disposed of. In severe cases, spraying with a 10% solution can be applied. iron sulphate is a very high concentration that causes chemical burns. Therefore, such processing is carried out only when the tree is at rest, always on a calm day, not forgetting all the safety measures that are necessary when working with toxic substances.

Green or brick-colored plaque, usually found with north side large branches or trunk - these are unicellular algae. They are not dangerous and only indicate high humidity air. Improving ventilation and thinning the canopy helps reduce algae. Again, removing the old bark before whitewashing solves this problem as well.

Different varieties of apple trees have their own pruning features.

Varieties with weak branching and low awakening of the kidneys (Cinnamon striped, etc.). The branches are "bald", with weak branching, fruits are formed only in their upper part.

Pay attention to the photo - pruning of apple trees of such varieties is carried out medium or strong in order to enhance branching and reduce the number of dangerous forks with sharp corners:

Such varieties require more radical anti-aging pruning.

Antonovka ordinary in the photo
Borovinka in the photo

Varieties with weak to moderate branching and good bud awakening(Antonovka vulgaris, Borovinka and etc.). The periodicity of fruiting on kolchatka is characteristic. Stimulate the formation of overgrowing branches on skeletal and semi-skeletal branches.

Pepin saffron in the photo
Melba in the photo

Varieties bearing fruit on fruit twigs (Pepin saffron, Melba and etc.). Shorten growth to enhance branching and formation more growing branches.

Renet Simirenko in the photo
Autumn striped in the photo

Varieties with high shoot-forming ability (Renet Simirenko, Autumn striped and etc.). Regular thinning is required.

Apple trees on dwarf rootstocks in most cases require minimal formative pruning, especially if the varieties themselves have moderate branching. In most cases, apple trees on dwarf rootstocks respond well to anti-aging pruning.

This video shows pruning apple trees of different varieties:

Correct pruning of a columnar apple tree (with video)

Recently fashionable columnar apple trees require proper pruning, not the same as that used for other species. Often, columnar apple trees do not need pruning at all, because usually these are undersized varieties. A feature of columnar apple trees is very short growth and the presence of annulus on all branches, including skeletal branches (if any), and even on the trunk!

In order to direct all the forces of the tree to fruiting, in the middle of summer long growths current year pinch. If this is not done, the apple trees lose their strict columnar appearance, become overgrown with long skeletal branches, and it turns out something similar to a tree on a dwarf rootstock, only with a rarer crown. When the apical bud is damaged or removed, several strong shoots grow: if there is enough space, you can leave those that are well located. This option has a right to exist. But if the "column" was acquired for a different purpose, and there is not enough space, then you will have to choose one shoot and greatly shorten the rest.

Often, gardeners, acquiring a columnar apple tree, dream of a “stick” strewn with large bulk apples. Alas, the small size of the fruit is a varietal feature, pruning and top dressing will not make the fruit larger. On the other hand, breeders have taken care of compensation - apples are easy to pick, they have a rich aroma and dessert taste.

This video shows the pruning of columnar apple trees on personal plot:

In recent years, the apple tree has become popular decorative culture, on sale you can find many varieties, usually small-fruited, with a different general appearance of the tree (or) color of flowers and leaves. Pruning decorative apple trees will need to be different, its nature depends on the shape of the crown. However, in any grafted forms, shoots that appear below the grafting site are removed decisively and immediately.

Nedzvetsky's apple tree in the photo
Nedzwiecki's apple tree with bright raspberry flowers in the photo

Nedzwiecki's apple tree attracts not only leaves with a purple tint varying degrees expressiveness, but also bright crimson flowers. The fruits of this species are quite large, and from the apple trees traditionally grown in gardens, they differ mainly in an unusual, dark, color. The formation of an apple tree of this species is exactly the same as the home apple tree we are used to. They do the same with large-sized ornamental varieties that have classic shape crowns.

The spherical shape of the Nedzwiecki apple tree in the photo

Spherical forms grafted on a tall trunk require minimal pruning. Remove all rootstock shoots, sanitary pruning if necessary and maintain the correct crown shape.

The now popular weeping apple trees will require a different approach. These are also grafted apple trees on a high trunk. In order for the "umbrella" to be thick and beautiful, regular pruning is required with beautiful name"candelabra". Look closely - weeping branches form an upward bend at the very top. There we cut off on the kidney directed upwards. Below this kidney should remain at least two or three. Thus, strong weeping shoots will grow from the remaining buds, and the "umbrella" will be strong and durable. In order not to deprive yourself of joy, you should not “stupefy” a tree every year. If you want to admire decorative flowers and the fruits of your apple trees, you will have to cut the crown in parts.

Theoretically, you can make a sheared apple tree hedge, but why? Indeed, in this case, you will have to forget about flowers and fruits.

You need to take care of the apple orchard all year round. To do this, they draw up a plan and carry out the necessary work on pruning branches in the season. Apple trees that have a properly formed crown always give a generous harvest of apples.

Why prune the branches of an apple tree?

It is important for beginner gardeners to know how to properly care for an apple tree in order to think through all the nuances. When preparing for the autumn pruning of trees, their age is taken into account. Branches from young and old apple trees are removed so that the tree does not suffer, but only receives a new impetus for growth and development.

Pruning allows you to achieve the following goals:

form the crown of an apple tree in time;
strengthen young branches;
increase the number of fruiting branches;
ensure the penetration of sunlight into the crown;
prepare the tree for wintering.

For an old apple tree, autumn pruning becomes a salvation and gives a second life. There is an active rejuvenation of apple trees, which give a harvest for more than one year. For young trees, cutting branches allows them to grow in spring and improve fruiting.

Autumn pruning of an apple tree for the winter

They are engaged in pruning young and old apple trees 2-3 times a year. In winter, trees are pruned only in southern regions, where the branches do not freeze and it is clearly visible which one to remove.

spring work aimed at the formation of the crown and the removal of branches frozen in winter. If the apple tree is covered with dense foliage, it is thinned out even in summer to open access to light to the fruits.

most acceptable and in a safe way cleaning apple trees from extra branches is considered autumn time. The tree is prepared for winter by cutting off unnecessary branches, dry, broken by the wind or young shoots.

When to prune apple trees in autumn

It is better to wait until the leaves have completely fallen off. AT different regions sap flow in the bark stops depending on the air temperature. Only after the cessation of sap flow and the reaction of photosynthesis, the leaves change color, dry and crumble.

In the suburbs, the foliage in the garden crumbles in October-November. In Siberia, this process occurs much earlier - already at the end of summer - beginning of autumn. It is not worth waiting for frosts, because the branches in the cold become brittle and break.

It is not possible to cut the planned branches, but the neighboring ones break. The bark on the cut suffers from low temperatures, so all work is completed before the first frost.

Pruning young apple trees

A one-year-old apple tree should not be overlooked. It is in the first year after planting that the formation of the crown begins. Therefore, it is worth arming yourself with a pruner and trimming according to the scheme:

remove ¼ of the main branches from above;
remove the tops (young shoots) from the trunk.

In the crown of a young tree, 5-6 main branches of the same thickness and height remain at a distance of up to 40 cm from one another.

Rules for pruning a young fruit-bearing tree

The apple orchard begins to bear fruit already in the 3rd year after planting the seedlings. It is during this period that in the fall each apple tree is thinned out, removing the branches inside the crown.

The tree grows outward, which allows light to reach the fruits, and also makes it easier to harvest. To form a round crown, the main trunk is shortened.

Pruning an adult apple tree

Gardeners have a special approach to old trees. They inspect the tree and decide whether it is worth rejuvenating the apple trees or is it better to remove it completely. If the tree trunk is strong and not damaged by bark beetle, sanitary pruning of branches is carried out:

cut down part of the main branches that are intertwined;
remove dried and diseased branches;
cut off the main branch, leaving young shoots on the trunk.

Thanks to thorough cleaning in the fall, the apple tree will overwinter successfully. After all, pests and fungi settle on all old branches, which cause irreparable damage to the garden in the spring.

Caring for columnar apple trees is somewhat different. At the top of each apple tree there is a bud that affects the growth and development of the tree. Therefore, pruning is carried out only in order to remove excess sprouts along the trunk.

For correct formation such a tree is pruned annually:

1st year. Clean up everything side shoots and shorten the seedling in height.

2nd year. Pinch only lateral shoots exceeding 30 cm.

3rd year. From the top of the central trunk, they are cut by 25 cm, and the side branches are left 40 cm each.

4th year. Lateral sprouts are thinned out, removing thin and growing to the sides.

5th year. Shorten the tree in height, preventing growth above 3 meters.

The fruitful link in columnar apple trees is formed on the main branch, from which two young shoots depart, shortened to 2 buds. Such a link gives a harvest of 5 years, and then it is completely cut off to the trunk.

Autumn pruning apple tree

After harvesting, you need to wait until the leaves from the trees fly around naturally. Bare branches are clearly visible, so it is easier to determine which ones to be removed.

To carry out pruning, you need to prepare tools:

sharp secateurs;
gardening scissors;
file.

For safety, gloves are put on the hands before starting work, and a cap is put on the head.

The work is carried out sequentially:

Cut off broken and dry branches;
Weak twigs are chosen for removal in the places of their interlacing;
Remove branches that grow at an acute angle (except for columnar apple trees);
Slices are smeared with garden pitch or oil paint;
Remote branches are collected and burned.

Beginning gardeners need to know that autumn pruning is strong, medium and weak.

According to the pruning scheme, it looks like this:

Weak pruning is carried out on young trees by shortening annual shoots by ¼ in order to form a crown;
Medium pruning is done on fruit-bearing trees. To increase the number of healthy productive branches, the main branches are shortened by 1/3;
Old thickened crowns need strong pruning, where the sun does not fall. On such a tree, the branches are cut in half and even the trunk is shortened.

After autumn pruning, the apple tree is completely ready for wintering. In the spring, pruning is carried out again, removing branches frozen and broken under the snow. Proper pruning apple trees favorably affect the development of the tree and prolong the period of active fruiting.

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