Form of an artificial stone from silicone sealant. Decorative stone with your own hands. Making a polyurethane mold

Today, more and more often, either tile or decorative stone is used as a material for cladding. But it's no secret that these materials are very expensive in the construction market and not everyone can afford them. The simplest solution to the problem is the form for artificial stone with your own hands.

For the manufacture of simple-shaped stones that have a smooth geometric shape, it is enough to use wooden boards as a base, knocking them together.

If you need to make a truly beautiful stone, it is recommended to use silicone as a base.

Video tutorial on creating a silicone mold for artificial stones

Preparing the original

First of all, you need to pick up a few original templates - natural stones, on the basis of which our forms will be produced. Their surface must be thoroughly washed and dried. At the same time, there should be no flaws on the surface that can give the resulting stones an undesirable appearance.

So that the finished form does not stick to the stone, it must be lubricated. The best composition would be wax or paraffin- there will be no problems with their search, and frozen on a stone, they will not allow silicone to stick to it.

Preparing a blank for a mold for artificial stone

If a decorative surface should be located on one side, it is enough to make one, if on both - then two forms of the same size are made, which are then superimposed on each other and connected.

Now we make a wooden container for making molds of the desired size.

To avoid any leaks, it is necessary to cover the cracks with silicone. Connections for insurance are twisted with screws.

Now wooden surface covered with plasticine in height up to 5-10 cm. We lay one or more stones on it, which were chosen as templates. Exactly the same base can be made of plastic or siding.

Now you need to measure the volumes of the mold and subtract the volume of the stones from the result. What is it for? In order not to procure an excess volume of silicone mixture, from which a do-it-yourself artificial stone mold is made.

Preparing silicone for pouring

Two components are needed to make silicone.: catalyst and hardener. It is necessary to read the instructions and carefully observe the proportions. Next, we connect the components together and then mix thoroughly with a drill or electric mixer.

When the mixture is thoroughly mixed, it is necessary to leave the silicone to infuse for 20-30 minutes. At this time, you should once again check the previously prepared elements, make sure that it is done efficiently and reliably. It is recommended to make several holes in plasticine.

Form Fill

When the shaping silicone is ready, it is necessary to place the blanks on a flat surface. In no case do not use silicone-based compounds as a separating element, as they will definitely grab each other. As an alternative to wax, you can take fatty or soapy solutions.

The material for the mold is poured carefully, slowly, so that it can spread well around the workpiece and no air cavities form.

Complete hardening occurs within 24-48 hours. At this time, you need to place the forms in a dark place, protected from moisture. Then we carefully unwind the boards, separate them from our workpiece, then take out the stones and that's it - the form is finally ready for use.

Video: making a silicone mold for artificial stone

In custody

A do-it-yourself mold for artificial stone is a great way to save on building facing materials that you can now make yourself. During operation, it is necessary to foresee the possibility of sticking between the surface of the mold and the future product, therefore, a fat-containing composition is applied on top or a plastic film is applied.

However, if the desire to mess with the manufacture of molds is gone, or the most suitable desired template was not found, you can always visit hardware stores and find ready-made molds of various sizes, shapes and patterns at a very reasonable price.

From the article you will learn how to save on "stone" decoration by producing artificial stone at home.

Described very simple instruction on the production of molds from polyurethane and silicone, advice is given on the choice of material for molds. You will be able to learn how to produce luxury finishes at the price of raw materials.

Almost everything has been said about artificial finishing stone. Where to buy, how to choose, what's the difference. The only thing left to do is to get the money out of your pocket and buy it. However, in practice, its price turns out to be very tangible for the owner with an average income, who compensates for the lack of funds with his work with love for the house.

In the article "Do-it-yourself artificial stone interior" we talked about how to prepare a mixture for decorative gypsum stone. This speech will focus on how to make this finishing material for your own needs as cheaply as possible. A mixture for the production of decorative stone can be purchased ready-made or made on site by mixing the components. But where can I get the form?

The simplest answer is to buy. A variety of offers await you in specialized stores. The cost of one silicone mold with an area of 0.24 m2 starts from 1200 rubles. a piece. You can make the coveted form yourself and this will give the following advantages:

Savings on the acquisition of the form. You pay only for raw materials, which is much cheaper.
Individual design product. You can choose a stone that suits you perfectly, and not choose from a wide, but the same type of assortment. Production with any drawing is possible - letters, logos, monograms.
A skill for life. Having mastered the manufacture of simple forms, you can develop this skill and apply it in other areas (cooking, sculpture).
Spin off. The molds, the manufacture of which we will describe, are designed for 1000 fillings. Such a product will last a long time and will allow you to produce many times more product than is necessary for your own needs.

What are the forms for artificial stone

The form (matrix) is a plastic flat container with a bottom in the form of the required relief, divided into elements according to the design. The material for their manufacture is used depending on the raw material with which they are supposed to be filled. As a rule, three materials are used.

Silicone

Properties:

Very soft, elastic and durable.
Prepared by mixing two ingredients - liquid solution based on silicon dioxide and acid hardener in strict proportions.
Violation of proportions leads to a change in the properties of the material.
The technology involves the removal of air bubbles using a vacuum (vacuum machine).

Application area. There are several types of silicone. More liquid grades are used for theatrical make-up, medicine, jewelry and high detail casting. Thicker - for molds for paraffin, concrete, gypsum. Widely used in the food industry as molds for baking, freezing, etc.

Polyurethane

Properties:

Elastic and durable, harder and more durable than silicone.
Resistant to chemicals.
The quality of texture transfer to the matrix is not inferior to silicone.
Prepared from two components in simple proportions. The first component is a modified polymer - a polyol. It also contains dissolved additives and additives that correct properties in the solid state. The second (hardener) is MDI (methyl diphenyl diisocyanate).
Forming and hardening take place at room conditions, air bubbles are removed by heating (building hair dryer) without vacuum.

Application area. Low rigidity - decorative elements, cases, medical equipment. Medium hardness - forms for gypsum, concrete, resins, casings. High rigidity - furniture, car parts, rollers, technical gaskets and other industrial products. Wide application in the factory.

Plastic

Rigid forms with a thin wall, repeating the outlines of the product. Insensitive to chemicals. They are manufactured from polyurethane in the factory by hot casting and pressing on special equipment. Mainly used for production paving slabs vibration shrinkage method. Out of competition.

So, a superficial review is enough to decide on the material of the future form. Plastic disappears due to the lack of factory equipment. We choose polyurethane for several reasons:

Universal application. The same polyurethane mold will allow casting from gypsum and cement mortar.
Ease of preparation. Proportions of 1:1, 2:1 or 1.5:1 avoid errors, while silicone requires 2% to 6% depending on conditions.
No vacuum treatment required.
The price is much lower.

The dependence of the price of silicone and polyurethane on the brand and field of application:

Material, manufacturer	Shore hardness	Elongation at break, %	Price of 1 kg of the system, rub.*	Note
Silicone
ZA-13 Mold Zhermack, Italy	13	450	950	Making molds for casting gypsum, paraffin, resins
ZA-22 Mold Zhermack, Italy	22	400	980	Forms with high detail. jewelry
HT 33 Transparente Zhermack, Italy	33	430	1100	Forms for concrete, ceramics
ZA 22 Thixo Body Zhermack, Italy	22	650	1650	Makeup, medicine
Polyurethane
Eracast RT 45A Era Polymers, Australia	45	2000	580	Molds for polymers, plasters, resins
Eracast RT 70A Era Polymers, Australia	70	910	610	Forms for concrete, solutions, car parts and technical products
Erapol CMD 93A Era Polymers, Australia	93-98	410	630	High tensile strength, hardness, wear resistance. Technical coatings and parts
Formolast 9U Kleiberit, Germany	45-60	400	450	Forms for concrete, solutions, auto parts. Replaces rubber in industrial formulations.
"Kromkolast 1" Kleiberit, Germany	85	250	450	Edges for seamless technologies of furniture, car tuning, cabinets
"Decolast 3" Pozzi-Arosio, Italy	45-47	150	300	Decoration of furniture, facades, interior. Finishing materials, medical equipment
Dekolast 5 Pozzi-Arosio, Italy	70	180	420	Furniture elements, plastic parts for cars and appliances, fittings.
"Decolast 8 IF" Pozzi-Arosio, Italy	85	less than 100	340	Car handlebars, bicycle saddles, armrests, air filters

* - materials for industrial needs (except for decorative ones) are sold in batches of the system from 40 to 400 kg

We make a matrix for decorative stone with our own hands

The whole process is to keep liquid material in the desired shape until it hardens. In other words, we will create a shape for the matrix. For polyurethane and silicone used same principle work.

What will be required:

A flat, flat table measuring at least 1x1 m, standing indoors at room temperature.
Smooth varnished (ideally laminated) plywood or Chipboard size with the future shape plus its own thickness (plywood) from each edge. Sides of 50 mm are attached to the bottom and between each other by confirmations. In other words, you need a box for casting, in which the master model will fit.
Elements of the master model (stones, even and smooth on one side).
Universal PVA glue or superglue.
Building hair dryer.

What is a master model and how to make it

This is the original relief from which the cast will be taken. And there are two options here.

Option one. Large individual items. They can have a rounded natural or rectangular hewn shape - it does not matter. The limits of a reasonable thickness of the finished product range from 10–50 mm for gypsum and 10–30 mm for concrete and mortar. Do not forget that finished tiles have to stick to the wall. The stone should be flat on one side. Everything is suitable for the form - from marl to granite.

Operating procedure:

We try on the stones on the form board. We lay them out in such a way that there is at least 15–20 mm between them and between the stone and the wall.
We circle the stones with a marker.
We install the elements according to the markup, applying universal glue to the flat side.
We fill the gaps between the board and uneven edges with acrylic sealant.

Attention! This must be done very carefully and remove the remnants of glue and sealant from the mold.

The master model with large elements is ready.

Option two. Small elements grouped in a non-systematic masonry. In the language of terms, this is called a "pile". To get a cast in this form, we first need to create this form. This is painstaking work. Here you will need to make a small box according to the size of the model with sides of 20 mm.

Operating procedure:

We select the elements of the pile - real strips of sandstone with natural edges.
We cut along the length on one side so that the width of the strip from the undercut to the natural edge is from 20 to 30 mm.
We assemble the pile by gluing the strips together. The gaps between them should not exceed 5 mm.
When the box is full, we put technical paraffin on the resulting relief and melt it with a building hair dryer.
The heated paraffin flows through the cracks and fills the lower part of the master model. This is necessary so that this place is not filled with liquid polyurethane. Then the model will simply not get out of it.
After the paraffin has hardened, we disassemble the small box.
We carefully remove the model, transfer it to a large box (with 50 mm sides) and install it on glue.
We seal the gaps between the stones and the plane.

From this point on, the procedure is identical for both options.

We install the sides of 50 mm on the confirmations through the sealant.
Key moment. We lubricate the formwork and stone with a separating compound - pure machine oil.

Attention! Lubrication with a release agent is carried out several times until the pores of the stone are filled. Otherwise, liquid polyurethane will take place in the pores and this can lead to rapid wear of the mold and complications during operation.

We expose the form according to the level in the planes.
We prepare a mixture of polyurethane in strict accordance with the instructions.
We fill the formwork with the composition. It is allowed to lay an alkali-resistant mesh to strengthen the bottom of the flexible matrix.
After the time specified in the instructions, we disassemble the box and carefully separate the frozen silicone from the master model. Remove spills.

Despite the obvious simplicity of the technology, skill is also needed here. To get started, we recommend practicing on simple forms small size - sawn brick, tile, finished decorative stone.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru

Tiles are versatile material, with which you can beautifully and reliably decorate the house, both inside and outside. Someone orders tiles from special catalogs, paying for the services of specialists in the installation of products, and someone prefers to try himself in the field of not only a stacker, but also a master in the manufacture of tiles and decorative stone of the desired size, color and structure.

To get quality facade tiles or stone will need to use special shapes. Again, there are two options here: buy pre-made molds or make your own. Let's take a difficult path and consider the process of making molds for tiles and artificial stone at home.

Features of molds for tiles and stone

For the manufacture of products is usually used ABS plastic, as well as a number of other materials, among which the most popular are silicone, PVC and polyurethane. It is these materials that allow as a result to obtain products with the desired degree of matte and glossy surface. Forms made of PVC and plastic are especially convenient because they do not require lubrication and steaming, since in the process of preparing products with their help concrete mix does not stick.

An interesting material option for molds is polyurethane, which is especially strong and durable.. Polyurethane products can be used to cast more than a thousand slabs, the feature of which will be a perfect glossy surface.

Varieties of molded products

A wide range of products for casting facade tiles and stone opens up many possibilities for the implementation of unique design ideas in the direction of facade finishing. The most striking examples of products:

limestone ore;
figured slate;
dolomite;
marble ore, etc.

Pay attention to the fact that the laying of finished facade tiles or artificial stone requires certain calculations in order for the laying to turn out to be even and durable.

During the installation process, it will be necessary to use not only the level, but also such important materials, like a rail and a plumb line.

Before moving on to laying tiles or stone, you will need to prepare:

buy go make molds for products with your own hands;
assemble or buy a ready-made vibrating table;
knead the composition for stone or facade tiles;
prepare the form on the vibrating table;
let the finished product brew in the form throughout the day;
carry out the formwork.

Finished products can be used immediately for finishing the facade, or they can be packed for further storage.

If you are not yet ready to make molds, then you can purchase finished products, the cost of which will vary depending on the material from which they are made.

How to make a tile with your own hands

The process of manufacturing facade tiles consists of several stages:

material extraction;
transporting it to a place for storage;
processing;
molding;
drying;
firing.

It all starts with quarry work - the extraction of material for the creation of products. Most often, clay is used, which is soaked and frozen at low temperatures for 10-12 months.

For high-quality processing of the prepared material, special machines are best suited, which will allow you to detect and process unwanted inclusions. At the molding stage, processing takes place in several ways: plastic molding, casting and semi-dry pressing. Finished products are dried to prevent shrinkage and cracks in the future, after which they are fired to form a finished facade tile.

In addition to clay, concrete mix is suitable for making tiles., from which it is easier to create products at home from do-it-yourself forms. In the process, the vibrocasting method is most often used to obtain slabs with low porosity on the surface as a result. By preparing a mixture of cement, sand and gravel, it can be colored with coloring pigments. As for the equipment necessary for the work, it will be enough to have a conventional concrete mixer and a vibrating platform.

Pay attention to the fact that plastic molds are suitable for making plaster and concrete products, but not clay. In addition, plastic is not a suitable material for the manufacture of molds intended for decorative stone, which ideally repeats the structure of natural stone.

Note that the manufacture of facade tiles today is an activity that everyone can master. The material is easy to use and allows you to create a finish that protects the facade and gives it a special texture. Molds for casting products are plastic and practical, allowing you to make materials with your own hands desired color, textures, as close as possible visually to natural.

Production of molded products for decorative stone

Forms for artificial stone, as well as for tiles, can be made by hand or bought ready-made complete with materials for making products.

The most convenient to use are rubber, silicone and polyurethane forms, from which the stone is easiest and fastest to remove after the mass has solidified.

Given that the cost of ready-made forms is high, it makes sense to consider the possibility of making them at home.

The dependence of the price of silicone and polyurethane on the brand

The best option is to make a mold from polyurethane. Packing a material weighing 7 kg will cost no more than three thousand rubles, while from it it will be possible to make several forms of the sizes you need at once. If you decide to use silicone, then it is best to select a European-made acetic-based material.

To make it easier to remove finished products from the mold, it is useful to use matrix separator, which is easy to make from gum turpentine, beeswax and paraffin. To prepare the mass, wax with paraffin is melted in a water bath, adding turpentine at the end. Lubricate the sides of the mold and the surface of the stone with the mixture.

The instructions for making a polyurethane or silicone mold are as follows:

Choose a few stones that you think are suitable for the role of samples.
Post them on chipboard sheet or fiberboard front side down at a distance of a few centimeters from each other.
Treat the smooth side of the stones with silicone and press firmly into the surface.
Treat the contours of the stones with sealant so that air does not get under them. Silicone for aquariums is suitable for pouring, which will help to avoid leaks.
Let the sealant dry for several hours.
Prepare the formwork at a distance of a few centimeters from the stone.
Seal the edges and corners of the formwork with silicone to prevent leakage of polyurethane.
Allow the mass to dry (at least 12 hours).
Lubricate the formwork and samples with the wax mixture prepared earlier and let dry for two hours.
Prepare the polyurethane mixture.
Fill the matrix with silicone or polyurethane. Pour polyurethane in a thin stream, silicone with a brush dipped in soapy mass.
Dismantle the formwork in a day and remove the stone models from the mold.
Dry the finished products for two weeks.

For many millennia, decorative stone has remained the best building and finishing material. Decorative rock is expensive, so many masters have mastered the manufacture of stone at home, for example, light plaster stone or heavier and more inexpensive - based on concrete.

In the 60s of the twentieth century, artificial stone began to be actively used in the West - the walls and foundation look organically in stone jungle metropolis. The idea of making decorative stone and decorating buildings was picked up by architects and interior designers, pushing a whole segment of entrepreneurship into development. Forgotten building materials are popular again.

Ancient masters learned how to process stone long ago, they distinguished it by the type of application, like:

construction or hewn;
finishing or decorative;
ornamental for jewelry work.

In previous centuries, sand and stone chips, grated pumice and shells, lime and chalk were mixed into hardening gypsum. Dyes were taken natural:

soot;
colored clay;
metal oxides.

In our time, stone and its analogue have come into modern construction and arrangement of rock gardens, and today it is difficult to imagine a modern house without them. The decorative stone, the photo of which is presented in the article, clearly demonstrates the capabilities of this building material.

Do-it-yourself decorative stone is made today on a different basis, and there are technologies available in everyday life. Forms are prepared independently or purchased factory models. Recipes, technologies and components are also known - they are offered by specialized companies.

The basis of simple mixtures is water, cement and fine, pigment is added. The material turns out to be quite durable, similar to natural stone, has excellent decorative properties. A variant close to ancient methods - from gypsum, and today polymer materials used as a binder.

The texture of wild stone has a different surface:

fine-grained and smooth
layered and bumpy
chipped and ribbed.

Natural stone crumbles and exfoliates when in contact with the tool, while artificial stone does not require processing. It is immediately given the required shape. The most common varieties:

rubble, similar to a natural boulder;
chipped, uneven, reminiscent of chips from a blow;
sawn, with smooth and even edges;
wild stone, natural form;
decorative of arbitrary shape, with sagging, folds or bumps, reflects any imagination of designers.

Advantages and disadvantages of artificial material

The manufactured stone has the following advantages:

Possibility of casting on site to reduce transport costs and scrap generated in delivery;
make small thin plates to reduce the weight of the finished structure;
its strength does not depend on the size and shape of the tile;
the pigment added to the mixture gives the desired shade;
it is possible to get a stone of a straight and arbitrary shape;
allows you to make the dimensions of the tiles corresponding to the installation site, even taking into account the curvature and irregularities;
produced ready-made forms make it possible to obtain a coarse-grained and smooth texture, almost polished;
easy to make any material irregular shape and a broken front surface;
some technologies make it possible to obtain a more durable analogue of fragile natural stone;
polymers give plasticity, and even after manufacturing, you can give a new shape or think over the edge for a seamless connection;
artificial material often has the best decorative properties;
differs from natural stone in ease of installation, thanks to the smooth back side;
indispensable refractory building material for decorating stoves, barbecues, braziers and fireplaces;
sufficiently moisture resistant, suitable for wet rooms such as a pool or wine cellar;
the price of an artificial decorative stone is less than for a natural analogue, which requires technological sawing and processing;
does not need special care, long and reliably serves;
all sorts of options for shape, shade and texture allow artificial stone to fit into the interiors of any style.

Possible disadvantages:

some decorative types have a complex manufacturing technology that increase the cost of the material;
not every wall is suitable for finishing with wild stone due to its high specific gravity, with the exception of gypsum analogues;
sometimes requires additional costs for transportation and high-tech installation;
it is not always possible to ensure an impeccable joint of individual blocks of a fantasy shape; clearance of gaps is required.

The main types of decorative stone

To guarantee quality, finishing building materials are made in strict accordance with the recipe and production technology. The components and production technology make it possible to obtain a decorative stone of various names and properties.

1. Concrete reinforced stone, the so-called monumental, freeform material, it is made individually by hand where it is installed. This is a technology for cobblestones, boulders and artificial granite slabs.

The basis for the shaped batch is a cement-sand mortar:

for 3 parts of cement in proportion - 1 dry sand;
2-6% pigment by weight of the solution;
add polymer additives.

2. A similar material is molded stone from the same cement-sand mixture. Suitable for construction and decoration. Differs in the increased durability and frost resistance. It is made in hangars, workshops and garages during the cool season.

3. Ceramic - the most expensive material that requires firing or hardening during certain temperature. Its production is associated with high energy costs and the presence of a large free heated area. In addition, trained workers are needed.

4. Gypsum cast decorative stone - the simplest technology and minimum equipment. They are made at room temperature, but it is only suitable for interior decoration work, it does not like temperature extremes. The mixture quickly becomes viscous.

It is made in small portions and immediately poured into the prepared form, but no later than 3-4 minutes from the start of the batch. We need citric acid up to 1.3% by weight of dry gypsum, it will slow down hardening, pigment - 2-6% by weight of gypsum plus water. It is better to make several test samples to correct the proportions.

5. Decorative polyester synthetic material. It is made by hot hardening with the addition of mineral fillers. Surpasses many natural analogues, but the hardening technology requires a vacuum, they are made in workshop conditions.

6. Liquid stone on gel coat. Inferior in hardness to cast stone, the gel accepts less mineral fillers. The mixture is suitable for the production of products with complex configurations, such as stone puzzles, but gel-acrylic-based stone is more expensive.

There are 2 compositions - primer and front, differ in the percentage of filler and composition. Priming composition: gelcoat - 20%, microcalcite - 73%, hardener - 1% and accelerator - 6%. Front composition: gelcoat - 40% accelerator and hardener - as in the 1st composition, back composition - filler plus pigment up to 6% by weight of the solution. The composition sets in about half an hour, after a day the stone can be laid.

7. Cold cured cast acrylic stone based on acrylic resin. It is easy to manufacture, requires strict implementation of the instructions and additional equipment, such as a shaker. It surpasses other artificial material in many properties. At high temperatures up to +210°С, it is possible to change its shape without changing the quality.

Tip: The absence of pores and resistance to chemicals of acrylic stone in the finish provide impeccable hygiene, so it is suitable for areas where frequent soiling and cleaning of surfaces is possible - entrance hall, kitchen, veranda and covered terrace. The material is also known for its low thermal conductivity, giving a feeling of warmth - this is the best choice for a bath, bathroom or pool.

Forms for decorative stone

There are many methods to make stone molds on your own according to the chosen method, but it is easier to buy ready-made ones.

There are about a dozen types of molds for the production of artificial stone with your own hands, but 3 types are most often used:

1. Ready-made polyurethane, for small production, they are offered by firms for the production of equipment and the sale of wild stone technologies, they are convenient and durable, but they cost a lot.

2. Clay molds on wax lost model, suitable for sculpting and art casting.

3. Silicone molds, suitable for homemade tiles by the piece, they are enough for dozens of castings, deform over time.

Advice: sand cushion required for silicone molds, when vibrated and heated, they burst. Before casting, the mold is deepened into the sand in the pallet up to 3/4 of the height in order to reduce deformation, and the horizontal immersion is checked with a water level.

Additional components and accessories

1. Pigment for building mixtures is offered in catalogs and stores for building materials in different form release: liquid, paste and powder. Synthetic pigment powder is evenly introduced into gypsum or other dry filler, pigment paste is introduced into the prepared mixture. By the way, thanks to the pigment paste, it is easier to get an uneven color - layered or spotty, it is injected with a syringe directly into the batch at the end of the kneading.

2. Separators are of different types:

for cast acrylic;
for concrete mortar;
for gypsum composition;
for liquid stone.

They are sold from ready-made instructions and detailed recipe. You can also use a high-quality lubricant - cyatim, fiol.

3. A hot air gun is a device like a small building hair dryer with a strong jet of heated air.

4. Vibrating stand - the main machine for making stone with your own hands, guaranteeing high quality final product, ensures the homogeneity of the hardening mixture.

Tip: you can make such a stand yourself - there is detailed instructions and a video, for example, on making a cement-based decorative stone using a homemade shaker.

The simplest technology for producing cement-based artificial stone

1. Sand is mixed with cement for the first layer 3:1 until a homogeneous mass is added, for coloring, a suitable dye is added about 2-3% relative to cement, kneaded with water until sour cream is thick, the liquid pigment is preliminarily diluted with water.

2. The finished mixture is evenly laid out in a mold up to half, compacted and distributed by shaking and tapping. To reinforce the stone, a metal mesh is placed on the 1st layer, the 2nd layer is poured without pigment and cruciform grooves are struck with a nail for adhesion during installation.

3. After 10-12 hours, the finished stone can be removed from the mold and laid to dry completely. The mold must then be cleaned and rinsed with Fairy after each pour.

4. In the process of monumental molding of a large block, the base is formed on a blank, twisted with reinforcing mesh and wire, where thick cakes without dye are laid out in layers. When the base sets a little, prepare a solution with the addition of a pigment of the desired consistency and make the final shape. Artificial boulders, when solidified, for about a month, are covered with a film from the rain.

Making stone from gypsum in the simplest way

At home, decorative stone is made in several ways. Let's dwell on the description of the proven in practice.

2. 1 liter is evenly squeezed into it silicone sealant on acetic acid, the layer is smeared with grease or other separator so that the finished stone does not stick.

3. The sample stone is pressed into the box with silicone until it is completely drowned in it, up to the back surface, the excess silicone must be cleaned off, the mold dries for a couple of days.

4. After complete drying, the sample is carefully removed from the mold box. The finished silicone is soft and elastic.

5. Gypsum mixture according to the recipe, sour cream with pigment is kneaded until thick, and poured into a mold greased with grease. After the first layer, it is desirable to reinforce the tile with a fine metal mesh, a 2-layer is poured without dye, leveling is achieved by shaking and left to dry. If the gypsum sets quickly, interfering with the reinforcement process, the mixture is diluted with milk - then it thickens longer.

6. It is better to drown the mold in sand on a pallet, to preserve the silicone mold, and press down the plaster with corrugated glass on top so that the uneven back surface is better attached to the wall.

Tip: There are labor-intensive methods for manufacturing stone, such as quartz, which allow you to get the highest quality and durable building material for cladding. Having mastered some techniques, you can open your own business.

Self-laying of artificial stone

1. The finished decorative stone is attached to any dry surface with an additional crate. Installation, with or without jointing, is done on cement mortar, building glue, stone is cut by a grinder at low speed with a disc on concrete.

2. Before starting installation, it is better to make a sketch finished work or use a picture with a similar material. The stones are laid out according to the pattern on the surface for the most beautiful placement and fitting of the fragments.

Additional stone decoration in landscape design

For a long time, stone was not only widely used in architecture, the Japanese used it to decorate tobiishi gardens. Today, for special design purposes, the stone is additionally painted or primed with part of its surface, so that green growth is more likely to form in the rock garden. They rub with ocher with soot, having grown old, and the bulges on south side- iron minium to obtain the appearance of tanning and weathering.

Facing the basement of the house, facade and internal walls stone is becoming more popular. And this is not at all surprising, since such a design not only protects surfaces from mechanical damage and pollution, but also becomes spectacular. But the trouble is that natural stone has a considerable mass, and creates significant additional loads on wall structures. In addition, working with him is quite difficult, and the cost similar finish often becomes a reason to abandon this approach.

There is a way out - to use an artificial stone for such purposes. It is lighter in weight and easy to process, so it is not so difficult to work with it, fixing it to surfaces. Artificial stone will perfectly replace natural stone, and it can be used not only for wall decoration, but also for lining flower beds and fountains, as well as for laying out garden paths.

It is also important that this finishing material has a very affordable price. But in order to achieve even more significant savings, many owners with a creative “vein” are asking a fair question about how to make an artificial stone with their own hands at home. Such a possibility exists, and it is not so difficult to make this material if you prepare everything that is required to prepare the solution, as well as to create forms with the desired relief of the future “stone”.

Before proceeding to the description of the manufacturing techniques of this finishing material, it is necessary to understand what it is and what it consists of.

Artificial stone can be made from various materials, which are selected depending on which of the walls will be decorated with it - facade or interior.

Yes, for interior decoration the stone is more often made on the basis of gypsum, and for the external one - from cement mortar with various additives. The list of such additives includes materials that give the finished stone a relief pattern - it can be fine gravel, sand, stone chips and other components. In addition, to give the artificial stone the desired shades, coloring dry or diluted pigments are prepared. If several of them will be used, then it is important to choose them in such a way that they harmoniously combine with each other.

In order for the finishing stone to turn out to be of high quality, it is necessary to prepare a good shape for it. By making the appropriate purchase or by making it yourself once, it will be possible to manufacture required amount stone that will be used to transform a house or garden plot.

You should not buy a cheap plastic mold, as it may break after the first batch of made stones. The best option would be a matrix made of silicone, as it will last a long time and help produce as much finishing material as needed.

Making a mold for artificial stone

In specialized stores, you can find ready-made kits for the manufacture of this finishing material, which further simplifies the work, but for any owner it is quite feasible to complete the forms on their own.

The condition for successful work is a well-made mold-matrix

For example, a certain design of a particular surface is conceived, and a stone that is optimally suited for this style is too expensive, or it was not possible to choose the desired variant of its tint performance at all. In this case, you can purchase one or more store-bought artificial stone tiles, and make the necessary forms based on the purchased samples.

In addition, a real stone with a textured pattern you like, which cannot be found in stores, can be taken as the basis for the template.

As a "source" for the manufacture of the matrix, stone or tile does not have to be used at all. Often, for this, wood is taken with a beautiful textured pattern, which is pre-deepened.

Forms can be single or complex. The first ones are much easier to make than the second ones, since they do not require too large formwork and the use of a large amount of silicone. However, it should be noted right away that in the future it will become both easier and faster to manufacture the artificial stone itself with a complex version of the matrix, because the output will be several at once. finished products.

In any case, for the formwork, you will have to find a ready-made or self-made plywood box or a cardboard box. This element must have dimensions 10÷15 mm wider and 25÷30 mm higher than the original sample, according to which the mold will be made. If the stone should be very small, then even an ordinary juice box, cut off from one of the wide sides, is suitable for formwork. It has sufficient rigidity to withstand the silicone fill.

You can do it differently by connecting several juice boxes together, keeping a distance of 10 ÷ 12 mm between them. But at the same time, this gap must be hermetically sealed, as it will become walls between future forms.

Next, you can proceed to the preparation of the initial sample and the casting material. It can be used as a silicone sealant, polyurethane or a compound specially designed for such purposes, consisting of two components.

silicone mold

Silicone sealant is sold in tubes or buckets, and you need to purchase the amount of material that is needed to make the mold.

When the formwork is ready, any grease is applied to its inner walls - it can even be ordinary grease.
Further, the original element is laid at the bottom of the formwork - it can be natural stone, tiles with smooth surfaces, ready-made version artificial stone, board or other object on which the form will be made.
Then, the object laid in the formwork is also lubricated with a greasy substance - this must be done so that the silicone can be easily removed after it has hardened.

Here it should be noted important point- if a ready-made artificial gypsum stone is used as the initial sample, then it is pre-coated with two or three layers of varnish or drying oil, each of which must be well dried.

The next step is to prepare a soapy solution, which is necessary for wetting the brush and spatula used when laying out and distributing silicone inside the formwork.

If silicone is purchased in a tube, then it is completely squeezed into the formwork, and then, dipping the brush in soapy water, it is distributed inside the box. In this case, it is very important to ensure that the silicone tightly, without the formation of air pockets, adjoins the stone sample, which is laid on the bottom of the formwork. To do this, the laid out composition is not just smoothed with a brush, but rammed.

Silicone Matrix Manufacturing Sequence - Continued

After filling the formwork to the desired level, the silicone surface is leveled with a spatula, which is also wetted in a soapy solution.
After the work is completed, the formwork with silicone is left for polymerization.

You should not rush to remove the mold - the longer it stays intact, the better the matrix will turn out, the more cycles of manufacturing artificial stone it will withstand. Polymerization proceeds from the outer surfaces deep into the silicone, and for reference, its rate can be taken as 2 mm of thickness per day. So the process of complete solidification of the forms can take from several days and even up to several weeks, depending on the depth and thickness of the fill. Therefore, if it is decided to start manufacturing artificial stone at a certain time, for example, in the summer months, then the preparation of matrices for this should be taken care of in advance.

After the expiration of the estimated period, the formwork is removed from the structure. The resulting form is carefully removed and washed from the lubricant, and only after that it will be ready for further use.

The presented table shows the main specifications silicone sealant, which must be taken into account when making a matrix for artificial stone from it:

	Normal values	Test Results
Time of formation of a surface film after extrusion of the sealant from the tube (minutes), no more.	30	5÷25
The viability of the composition (hours), no more.	8	6÷8
Conditional tensile strength MPa, not less than	0.1	0.4÷0.6
Relative elongation at break (%), not less.	300	400÷600
Yield resistance (mm), no more.	2	0÷1
Water absorption by weight (%), no more.	1	0.35÷0.45
Density (kg/m³), no more.	1200	1100÷1200
Durability, conditional years, not less.	20	20

Compound matrices

Specialized stores also sell special formulations intended for the manufacture injection molds. The characteristics of one of these compositions of the domestic manufacturer OOO PO Tekhnologiya-Plast, under the name Silagerm 5035, can be considered in more detail.

This two-component polyurethane compound is designed specifically for mold making. Moreover, when using such specialized compositions, matrices are obtained with excellent physical characteristics and a long service life.

"Silagerm 5035" can be used not only in the production of molds for artificial stone, but for the manufacture of matrices intended for casting sculptures or architectural details from plaster and other building materials.

Molding polyurethane compound "Silagerm 5035" is produced in beige and has different hardness parameters - 40 and 30 units. according to the Shore table.

The main physical and technical characteristics of "Silagerm 5035" are given in the table:

Main indicators of the material	Shore hardness 30±3	Shore hardness 40±3
Surface film formation time after mixing the components (minutes), no more	40÷50	40÷50
Viability (minutes), no more	60÷120	60÷120
Conditional tensile strength (MPa), not less than	3.0÷4.5	3.5÷5.0
Elongation at break (%), not less than	450÷600	400÷600
Shrinkage (%), no more	1	0.8
Viscosity (centipoise, cps).	3000÷3500	3000÷3500
Density (g/cm³), no more.	1.03±0.02	1.07±0.02

Full curing time ready mix is only 24 hours.

In order for the mold to last as long as possible, before filling it with a solution of gypsum or cement, it is recommended to lubricate its inner surface with a special release agent "Type 90".

Compound "Silagerm 5035" goes on sale in buckets of 1.5 and 7.5 kg.

Fabrication of a matrix using a special compound "Poly 74-29»

« Poly 74-29"- this compound of the German manufacturer is available in several versions, which are determined by the digital marking code. The last digits of this designation indicate such a parameter as the hardness of the material after the mold has solidified.

Excellent reviews from matrix manufacturers deserved a special compound of German production "Poly 74-29"

The table below for interested readers will provide step-by-step instructions for making a matrix from this compound.

Illustration
	To work in this case, the master prepared the following tools and materials - these are product templates from which the mold will be removed, plastic sandwich panels for assembling formwork with a thickness of 15 ÷ 20 mm, Double-sided tape, technical petroleum jelly, a brush 12 ÷ 15 mm wide, a clerical knife, soft cloth, plasticine and a ruler-level. It should also be noted here that any other material that has high strength and smooth surface. Vaseline can also be replaced by any other similar lubricant, inert to polyurethane.
	As the initial samples for the manufacture of the matrix, any material can be taken, with a textured pattern, shape and thickness that you like. In this case, the model is natural stones different size and shape. Their artificial counterpart can be subsequently used for both interior and exterior decoration.
	The first step is to make a formwork, which should have the size of the future matrix. On a flat surface of the desktop, the bottom of the formwork is laid. In this case, it is a cut-out fragment from a PVC sandwich panel.
	Selected samples are laid out on the surface of the bottom part of the future box-shaped structure. The stones should be located at a distance of at least 10 and not more than 20 mm from each other, since this distance will be the thickness of the walls between the individual sectors of the same matrix. In addition, it is necessary to immediately take into account the thickness of the walls that will be installed along the perimeter of the bottom of the formwork. The stones must also be removed from the walls at a distance of 10 ÷ 15 mm.
	Further, the location of the stones is marked on the bottom surface with a marker. This is done so that after removing them and applying glue, return them to their original place and maintain the already specified distance between them, and hence the thickness of the future walls.
	Then the stones are temporarily removed, as they must be fixed on the bottom surface with glue-sealant or double-sided construction tape. The second option is much easier to implement than the first. If this method of fixation is used, then it is best to stick the adhesive tape on the surface of the bottom of the formwork.
	If glue is used, then it is applied to the central side of the lower surface of the stone relative to thin layer, since in no case should it protrude at the edges.
	After gluing the samples, gaps of various thicknesses will inevitably remain between the surface of the base and the stone. They must be sealed carefully. This sealing will prevent the liquid polyurethane compound from getting under the stones.
	These gaps can be sealed with plasticine, which is rolled into a thin strip.
	Then the resulting plasticine bundle is laid along the perimeter of the junction of the stone with the base. First, the plastic mass is distributed with fingers, and then finally smoothed out with a stack. Instead of this material, sealant can be used, which is applied in a thin strip, also at the joint, and then spread with a finger dipped in a thick soapy solution. True, in this case, you still have to wait until the silicone sealant seizes well.
	However, whatever material is used for this process, it must not protrude beyond the shape of the stone.
	It is recommended to cover the surface of the glued original samples with technical vaseline, wax dissolved in white spirit, or use a special wax release lubricant for this purpose. If this is not done, or if this process is carried out poorly, then in untreated places, polyurethane will definitely stick to the stone, which means that the matrix form can be hopelessly damaged. Such a smear should capture all parts of the stone, up to the smallest details relief, that is, to be carried out - with special diligence.
	When the stones are securely fixed, processed accordingly, formwork walls are installed around them, which must be raised from the bottom by two heights of the stone. The formwork walls can be pulled together with clamps (as in the case under consideration) or twisted at the corners with self-tapping screws - it all depends on the material of their manufacture and the availability of the necessary fastening tools and fixtures.
	In addition to clamps, a special belt is used to tighten the formwork structure. He will additionally connect the bottom of the formwork with the walls.
	The finished formwork box must be well insulated from the inside, covering the joints between the bottom and the walls, as well as the gaps at the corners. This process can also be carried out with the help of plasticine, rolled out into strips and distributed in the desired areas.
	Further, all inner space the formwork and the stones themselves, fixed on its bottom part, are recommended to be treated with one of the release agents (anti-adhesive). In this case, the composition "Pol-Ease2300" was used.
	After all the formwork inside has been processed, it must be dried well, and only after that it will be possible to pour the compound composition into it. The anti-adhesive agent will provide effective separation of the initial images and formwork walls from the molding polyurethane and will ensure easy removal of the finished matrix. The same compositions are also used in the manufacture of artificial stones, only in this case, it is applied to the matrix, before pouring concrete or gypsum mixture into it.
	The prepared formwork box should be checked for horizontal installation. The entire resulting structure must stand perfectly even, otherwise the compound will drain to one side, and the shape will turn out to be uneven, and this, in turn, means that the stones will also have a skewed lower surface, which will make it difficult to install them on the wall when finishing.
	Next, the composition is prepared for pouring into the formwork. In this case, the compound is used German manufacturer Poly 74-29. This composition is suitable for the manufacture of matrix molds that will be used for pouring cement or gypsum mortars into them. Various colors are imparted to the material for the manufacture of matrices by adding a color pigment to it. Complete polymerization of this agent occurs after 16 ÷ 24 hours, and its "life" after mixing is only 30 minutes at an average temperature of +25 degrees. Therefore, using this compound, you will have to act very quickly, and kneading should be done immediately before pouring. The compound is two-component. The working composition is prepared in proportions of 1: 1 and thoroughly mixed until smooth.
	The components can be mixed with a spatula or a mixer attachment installed in an electric drill - the tool is selected depending on the amount of mass to be kneaded. Using a mixer for cooking, turn on the electric drill at low speed so that the resulting mixture does not become too porous due to the large amount air bubbles. If the components of the compound are not completely used, then their remains in the standard container should be tightly closed with lids.
	Next, the resulting mass is very carefully poured into the prepared form. Another option is that it can be applied in layers with a spatula, but the latter method is more complicated, since for it the proportions of the components must be calculated separately. If the compound will be poured into a small mold, then it is recommended to knead it manually, kneading it until the mass is completely homogeneous. The finished composition, slowly, so as not to “grab” air bubbles, is poured into the formwork so that the pouring thickness is from 7 to 10 mm above the highest point of the original sample.
	After the mixture is poured into the box, you must try to rid it of the remaining air bubbles. To do this, the box must be gently moved back and forth, shaking slightly, and repeat this several times. Then it is necessary to let the formwork with the poured mortar stand for 5 ÷ 10 minutes, and then carefully collect the air bubbles that have come out from the surface of the mass with a spatula.
	The form is left for a day until the compound is completely cured. It is not recommended to remove it from models before, since all the declared qualities are still gained within 72 hours. Therefore, after removing the matrix from the original sample, it is necessary to withstand it for another two days without operation. So there is no hurry. After this time, the matrix form will be suitable for filling with a solution with a temperature up to + 80 ÷ 120 degrees. Before removing the formwork elements from the matrix, it is recommended to spray "Pol-Ease2300" on its entire inner surface, as well as on the bottom of the finished frozen form - this will facilitate the separation of the walls from the polyurethane.
	A day later, first the tightening belt is removed from the box-shaped formwork structure, and then the clamps.
	Then, along the outer edges of the frozen form, they are passed with a spatula, that is, they try to separate the polyurethane from the wall surfaces. After such an operation, the walls should easily separate from the matrix.
	The last stage of work, for the sake of which all the processes described above were carried out, is the removal of the finished form from the original samples of stones.
	To do this, the edge of the matrix is \u200b\u200bcautiously picked up, and then slowly removed completely. As you can see, with high-quality preliminary preparation of formwork and stone samples, no traces of polyurethane compound remain on them.
	Now, having processed the form with the selected release agent, you can start making artificial stone from the most convenient material for yourself, taking into account, of course, the purpose of the finish being prepared.

Video: an example of making a mold for an artificial stone from a silicone-polyurethane compound

Production of artificial stone

As mentioned above, it can be made from different materials, but in this section, the production of two options will be considered, one of which is used for interior decoration, and the second for decorating the facade.

Gypsum-based artificial stone

Gypsum artificial stone is most often used for finishing interior walls, but with proper processing and impregnation, it is also suitable for some facade surfaces.

It should be said that gypsum is more popular for creating artificial stone than cement. It is easier for this material to give the desired shade, after hardening it is a little lighter than cement composition products, and has better adhesion to wall surfaces.

For the manufacture of gypsum artificial stone, the following materials and tools will be required:

Form-matrix of elastic material.
Electric drill with mixer attachment.
A container for mixing ingredients - this can be an ordinary plastic bucket.
Tray for drying tiles.
Brushes.
Spatulas.
White plaster.
Washed river sand.
Citric acid and PVA glue.
Composition of wax and turpentine.
Water at room temperature.
Dry coloring pigment of the desired shade.

To carry out the work, it is necessary to prepare a small working area, equipped with a workbench, the surface of which is leveled horizontally with a level, otherwise you may get a tile that has different thickness.

If a large amount of finishing material will be produced at once, then racks will be needed for the final drying of the products, which should take place over several days.

And, of course, it is necessary free place where the solution will be mixed.

When preparing a gypsum molding mixture, a number of important nuances should be taken into account:

Gypsum is added to water, and not vice versa, otherwise the mass will turn out to be heterogeneous, with lumps and inclusions.
It is important to remember that gypsum sets very quickly, literally within 5-7 minutes. Therefore, if there is a need to extend the period of its solidification, citric acid is added to the solution at the rate of 0.6-0.8 g of the crystalline composition per 1 kg of gypsum. By adding this ingredient to the mass, you can prolong liquid state gypsum mortar up to one and a half hours. Citric acid is diluted in warm water, then, while kneading, added to the solution.
If a single form is poured with a solution, then the mass must be prepared in a small amount.
Sand is added to the solution for the strength of the finished product. The size of its fraction (from 0.01 to 1 mm) will depend on which model of artificial stone will be chosen.
The mixture after mixing should have the consistency of thick, but fluid sour cream.
The composition is collected in different proportions, but usually 100 grams of sand is added to 1 kg of gypsum.
PVA glue is added as a plasticizer to the mixture. By the way, just like citric acid, it is able to somewhat extend the setting time of the mixture.
Gypsum with water is taken in proportions of 1.5: 1, and this liter also includes the water in which citric acid is diluted.
The required amount of water is poured into a clean bucket. Further, if an additive is provided for a dry coloring pigment solution, then it is immediately added to the water and mixed well.
The next step is to pour a measured amount of gypsum into the water and again mix the solution with a mixer.
Then, sand is added to the solution and mixed again.

Before mixing the molding solution, it is necessary to prepare the matrix. If it is made of silicone or plastic, then it must be lubricated with a special compound consisting of turpentine and wax (or a special release agent). If the form is made of polyurethane, then it does not require special preparation, although the lubricant will still not be superfluous.

"Rock" is one of the most popular types of artificial stone, used both for facing facade walls and plinths, and for interior decoration. With a similar imitation, the entire surface is finished completely or only separate sections walls. Such an artificial stone is well suited for many interior styles, so such cladding practically never goes out of fashion.

Find out a few options on how to do it from a new article on our portal.

If the matrix form is made independently or purchased, then, having prepared the desktop, you can proceed to the process of creating an artificial stone.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	This silicone mold for the manufacture of artificial stone "Rock" consists of five large and five small compartments. The convenience of such a matrix is that you can make the right amount of large or small stones separately, or you can make ten tiles of different sizes at once.
	To make a mixture for pouring into such a matrix, some building materials will be required. It is desirable that the recommended proportions be observed exactly, otherwise the products may turn out to be fragile, crumble and excessively absorb moisture. So, the solution will require five kilograms of GVVS-16 gypsum, which must be weighed, since the hardening time and plasticity of the solution will depend on the exact amount of this material.
	In addition to gypsum, you will need dry sand of a large fraction - one and a half kilograms, as well as pure water- two liters. These ingredients also need to be measured accurately, because their quantity also affects the quality of the finishing material to a certain extent. To make the stone more picturesque, the water should be tinted by adding 30 grams of black and 45 grams of yellow special coloring powder.
	Separately, you need to prepare 400 ml of water, into which a pinch is poured citric acid and then the solution is stirred. Citric acid must be completely dissolved, otherwise its grains can also adversely affect the solution.
	While the acid is diluted in water, using the mixer attachment installed in electric drill, water is mixed with the color added to it, since it must also dissolve and give a certain color scheme created stone.
	The next step is to pour sand into the gypsum, and then this dry mixture is thoroughly mixed, also with the help of a mixer, with the drill set to low speed.
	The next step is to add water mixed with citric acid to the bucket with the tinted solution. The result is 2.4 liters of liquid, on which the molding solution will be mixed. Then the colored water must be mixed well again.
	Next, the solution is poured into a bucket with a gypsum-sand mixture and thoroughly mixed for a homogeneous state. This process should last at least 5÷7 minutes.
	As a result, the mass ready for pouring into the matrix should be quite liquid and look something like the one shown in the illustration.
	Now we need to work a little on the silicone matrix. In order for the stone to have several shades, that is, to be picturesque and as close as possible to natural natural colors, the shape also needs to be slightly tinted.
	For tinting, a dry pigmenting powder is used, which is applied with a soft brush to certain parts of the form, selectively. In this case, it should be taken into account that in order to maintain the reliability of the simulation coloring composition applied not only to the bottom of the form, but also to the edges of the relief. To make the finishing material more picturesque, you can use several different shades but they must be in harmony with each other.
	You should not paint over too large areas of the form, as the finished stone will lose the effect of naturalness. The color that was given to the molding solution should remain the main one. After the dry pigment is applied to the form, its excess must be shaken off. To do this, the matrix is turned over and shaken off - this procedure will help not only get rid of excess powder, but also evenly distribute it over the sections of the form.
	Next, the form is installed on a flat desktop, on which it is recommended to lay a sheet of plywood, the same size as the silicone matrix. In the form, first in small portions, the solution is laid out, and it is laid out in each compartment separately. This amount of mass is better distributed along the bottom of the mold, filling all the deepest places in the relief.
	Then, the form, together with the plywood stand, is lifted by one edge and shaken several times. With such a vibrational effect, the solution spreads in the compartments of the mold, densely filling all the folds of the relief.
	When the first batch of mass is settled, the rest of the solution is laid out on top of it. Most often, the remainder of the solution already has a thicker consistency, so it turns out that the gypsum-sand mass protrudes from above the edges of the matrix, that is, “with a slide”.
	Since gypsum is part of the solution, it will begin to thicken very soon, so everything needs to be done quickly enough. Having laid out the rest of the solution, it should be shaken again, no longer raising the form, but moving it sharply with the help of plywood placed under it, grabbing the sides of this stand.
	Then, using a spatula, you need to quickly, removing the solution protruding above the walls of the mold, evenly distribute it over all compartments.
	The distribution is carried out until each of the departments is completely filled with gypsum-sand mass. During the distribution process, the form should be periodically shaken.
	The surface of the solution is also compared with the edges of the matrix with a spatula. This process will be easy to perform if a spatula is taken for it, having a width greater than the distance between the walls of the compartments.
	When finishing leveling, the spatula must be well cleaned of the solution upper part walls and partitions between individual compartments, the so-called tracks. This must be done carefully so that after the solution has solidified, it is easy to remove the mold from the finished products. After filling the matrix, it is recommended to immediately clean and wash all the tools from the remnants of the solution, otherwise, if it hardens, it will be quite difficult to bring the working surfaces of the spatulas to a normal state.
	After 20 ÷ 25 minutes, depending on the thickness of future products, it is possible to check the solidification of the solution. The check is made by hand, while the heat emanating from the hardening tile should be clearly felt. The fact is that when gypsum is mixed with water and the solution sets, a certain chemical exothermic reaction occurs, accompanied by the release of thermal energy.
	The next step, you need to take another sheet of plywood, also cut to the size of the form - with it the matrix is \u200b\u200bcovered over the filled blocks. Then the bottom substrate, the silicone mold and the top plywood sheet are captured at once. Then the whole structure is turned over so that the bottom of the mold is on top.
	The plywood that originally served as the backing is removed. Well, then, having captured the matrix from the corner, it is carefully removed from the molded products. Ready "stones" remain on the plywood sheet.
	After the matrix form is removed, it must be inspected - it must be clean, without solution residues. In the folds of the relief, as a rule, a coloring pigment remains, but if a batch is made finishing stone, usually the same areas are tinted before each fill, so this is not critical.
	The next step is the sorting of finished products. If suddenly a tile is found that has certain flaws, they are put aside for the time being. Perhaps it is useful for cladding in the peripheral, least noticeable areas of the finish.
	At the end of the work, the finished “stones” can be laid out in different configurations, achieving a uniform distribution of tinted areas over the entire surface. Thus, it will be easier to form a certain pattern from them than to carry out this procedure on the wall, already during the cladding.

Additionally, color can be applied to ready-made "stones". Coloring in this case is done with brushes. different widths, moreover, it is not necessary to draw even, neat strokes, since the more chaotic they are, the more picturesque and natural the color of the stone imitation will turn out.

At the final stage, the painted "stones" can be covered with a special matte varnish for external works. Do not use glossy varnish, as this finish will look unnatural. If a facing tiles will be used in a dry room, then covering it with a protective varnish is an optional condition.

A finishing material made from a gypsum-sand mixture has a fairly high popularity and is widely used for decorating interiors and facades. Such tiles are not used for laying out paths, as well as fountains and fireplaces. For the design of these elements, an artificial stone made from cement-based mass is more suitable. More on this in the next section of the post.

Video: an example of casting gypsum-based artificial stone

Artificial stone from cement-based mortar

The cement-based composition opens up more opportunities, since an artificial stone made from it can be used in any area of \u200b\u200bdecorating a suburban area, including for laying out garden paths or building an alpine slide.

To make an artificial stone from concrete, you will need the same tools as for a gypsum mortar, and the following should be prepared from the materials:

Gray cement M200÷M400 or Portland cement.
River washed sand.
PVA glue as a plasticizer, but you can do without it.
Coloring pigments.

The workplace, as in the first case, should be equipped with a level table with a horizontal surface. Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to the manufacture of finishing material.

It should be noted that an artificial stone from cement mortar can be made in different ways. For example, if the stones will imitate the cobblestones on alpine slide or in a flower garden, then they do without a silicone mold at all. Further, both manufacturing methods will be considered in the publication, but the composition for both options is made in approximately the same way.

The molding solution is made up of sand and cement in proportions of 3:1. The components are mixed in dry form, and then water is added to the mixture in small portions, and the composition is again mixed with a mixer. This continues until the solution becomes the desired consistency and uniformity. If you want to make the solution more plastic, PVA glue is added to it. It must be taken approximately 50 grams per liter of cement-sand mixture.

During the kneading process, a coloring pigment is added to the mixture if it is supposed to change the color of the cement or add any tint blotches to it. The amount of pigment can only be determined empirically, that is, by adding it little by little and mixing, achieving the desired shade of the entire solution or its layers.

The first option is an artificial stone for paving paths or for wall decoration.

To begin with, the process of making stone for decorating garden paths will be considered. However, the material for wall decoration is also made in the same way, just for the tracks they usually make blocks with a flat surface or with a relief that is shallow in depth.

The prepared form is filled with the prepared solution, which periodically needs to be shaken, moving forward and backward, so that the mixture fills the entire relief completely. When the matrix is filled, a medium width or wide spatula, collecting excess mortar and cleaning the upper sides of the partitions between the individual matrices, if pouring into a common mold. In this case, the walls will serve as a kind of beacons for leveling the poured solution.
If artificial stones of a large size are made, that is, a single deep matrix is \u200b\u200bpoured, then only half of its depth is first filled with a solution. Then, a reinforcing mesh or rods is laid on top of the poured mixture, and only then the form is filled with the mixture to the top, and the mass is leveled along the upper edge.
When the cement mixture sets, but still retains plasticity, hatching in the form of a lattice is applied to its surface with a nail. It is necessary for better adhesion of artificial stone to the surface of the walls during cladding.

Production of single large-format "stones"

The initial solidification of the solution is given from 12 hours to a day. Then the resulting "stones" are removed from the mold and left on the racks for the final maturation of concrete and curing for at least two weeks.

If the next portion of the solution is to be poured into the matrix, then before that it must be washed with soapy water.
After the stone is completely ready, it is cleaned of dust and dried small fragments, and, if necessary, coated with one or more paints of the selected shades. The created “stone” can be colored while pouring the solution into the matrix, as shown in the table above, or after it has solidified. However, it should be noted that the second coloring option will be much more difficult, since it is necessary to maintain harmonizing shades on all stones produced in this batch.
The final treatment may also include coating the surface with a durable atmospheric varnish.

The second option is an artificial cobblestone

Making imitation stones with beautiful shapes is becoming a kind of hobby for many. This is especially true for those owners who want to have a corner close to natural on their site. natural conditions that you want to decorate in a special way. This is the direction to landscape design received a specific name - "Art-concrete".

In appearance - no different from a natural boulder

Artificial stones, qualitatively made in this technique, are almost impossible to distinguish from natural boulders. The advantage of this manufacturing method is that you don’t have to look for the sample for exactly the option that you would like to see on your site, but you can take it and make it yourself. Moreover, making such a “stone” is quite simple.

For work, in addition to the cement mortar already considered, the following materials will be required:

Styrofoam. It can be of any thickness, but it is better that it be 100 ÷ 150 mm, since it will be much easier to cut the desired shapes from such material.
Reinforcing fiberglass mesh.
A plastic bag or foam rubber sponge to give relief or, conversely, to smooth surfaces.
Glue for foam. For this, cement-based tile adhesive, polymer adhesive, or even mounting foam can be used.
Sandpaper with coarse and medium abrasive grit.
Acrylic paints and resistant atmospheric varnish to decorate the resulting "stone".

Having prepared everything you need, you can get to work.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first step is to prepare foam panels of the desired size. Then they are glued together to such a thickness as the height of the stone is planned to be made. This design is left to dry completely. Further, the planned shape of the future “stone” is cut out from the resulting foam block-blank with the help of a construction knife. It can be anything, but in order not to invent it on the go, it is best to make a sketch of the planned decorative element in advance.
	Having cut out the desired shape, it is wrapped with fiberglass reinforcing mesh, trying to exactly repeat all the bends and irregularities of the future “stone”. You can temporarily fix the mesh with the same polymer foam adhesive. The protruding parts of the relief can additionally be depicted by placing lumps or knots of dense fabric under the fiberglass mesh.
	The next step is to make a cement mortar. It must be said that it is quite possible to use cement-based tile adhesive intended for outdoor use or “for complex bases” instead. This building mix is sold dry and mixed according to the instructions on the package. Glue is more plastic than ordinary cement mortar, but its cost will, of course, be somewhat higher. To give plasticity to a conventional cement-sand mixture, PVA glue can be added to it.
	Using a spatula or trowel, the solution is carefully applied to the foam mold on top of the reinforcing mesh. This is done with chaotic strokes - it will be easier to give the surface a relief of natural stone. If it is planned to make a “smooth cobblestone”, then the applied solution is wetted and smoothed with a rubber-gloved hand, or a thick polyethylene bag is placed on top of it, leveled and gently pressed against the damp concreted surface.
	When the entire base of the future artificial stone is covered with a solution approximately 15 ÷ 20 mm thick, it must be left for 20 ÷ 30 minutes for the initial setting.
	The next operation is carried out if it is not planned to make the surface of the “stone” smooth, but you want to give it a “natural” relief texture. This can be done with a foam sponge or the same plastic bag, which is crushed and in this form is applied to a wet solution, leaving a relief on it.
	After the cement (tile adhesive) has set, the “stone” is turned over, and its bottom is also sealed with mortar. When the mixture in this area is slightly seized, you should not wait for it to dry completely - the “stone” is placed on the bottom and pressed a little against a flat surface (for this you can use, for example, a sheet of plywood). Further, before leaving the resulting “stone” for complete solidification and strength gain, it should be treated with coarse sandpaper. This operation is carried out three days after applying the solution to the reinforced form.
	In order to completely complete the process of manufacturing an artificial stone, it takes a lot of time, since the solution applied to the surface must dry well and gain the required strength. Therefore, for complete readiness, it will be necessary to wait at least 10–12 days, and if the cement mortar is applied in two or three thinner layers, then you will have to pause in work to dry each of them, and this will take even more time.
	When the solution gains the necessary strength, the “stone” will need to be decorated, that is, the selected shade should be applied to it. Before proceeding to painting, the workpiece is well cleaned - dust is removed, small dried pieces of the solution are removed, and then washed with water.
	The next step, after the washed surface dries, is its staining. The paint can be purchased in an aerosol can, or you can use an acrylic composition sold in regular packages, which is applied with a brush. The paint must be applied in at least two layers to completely cover all the recesses of the relief pattern.
	To give the surface natural naturalness, it is necessary to “show” the relief pattern, make it visually more noticeable, convex. This is done with medium grit sandpaper. After such processing of the protruding irregularities of the “stone” relief, they are somewhat lightened, and the recesses remain darker, toned, which creates the necessary smooth contrast transition.
	After such treatment, the “stone” is washed again with water and dried.
	In order to protect the color of the "stone" from ultraviolet rays, so that this decorative accessory does not lose its original form, its surface must be covered with a matt varnish for external work. It is recommended to update this protective layer annually, then the artificial stone will decorate garden plot long years.
	Depending on the size and shape of the "stone" made, it can be used for camouflage. various elements, "falling out" from general style landscape design of the site, but without which it is impossible to do (for example, hatches for drainage or water wells). Therefore, before choosing the shape of the future "boulder", you should decide in advance on its installation site.

A few words about laying wall artificial stone

In order for the manufacturing process to be fully meaningful, it is necessary to make a number of remarks about the features of laying artificial stone on the walls.

must be mounted on an adhesive made on the basis of the same material from which the finishing material itself is made. In this case, perfect adhesion of the decorative cladding to the wall surface will be guaranteed.
Masonry can be seamless or have perfectly even seams.

In order to maintain the desired seam size, throughout the entire masonry, special silicone or plastic calibrator strips are used, with which rows of finishing material are laid. These elements are removed as the mortar sets, which is completely removed from the seams. After the glue has completely dried, the gaps in the joints are filled with special grouts.

The seamless masonry method is made in the case when it is planned to make an imitation of a monolithic wall covering with stone.

Seams, of course, with this approach still exist, but they are made as invisible as possible. To obtain such a masonry, it is necessary that the “stones” ideally fit together, both in size and in the evenness of the edges.

Separately, it is necessary to highlight the masonry with different sizes and forms. In this case, the seams can have different thicknesses and be at different heights relative to each other. This masonry option can be called the most difficult, since even in the manufacturing process it will be necessary to carefully consider the “docking” of the finishing elements both in color and in shape.

In conclusion, it should be said that the manufacture and self-laying of artificial stone will certainly be interesting and exciting for creative people who are able to independently develop and implement their own design projects for individual objects of a suburban area or surfaces of the walls of a house, both outside and inside. Even if there is absolutely no experience in such work, but there is a great desire to try your hand at such a field, you should not deny yourself this pleasure. Moreover, nowadays in construction stores it is easy to find any materials necessary for work.

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