We make a sheet bender with our own hands from improvised materials. How to make the perfect galvanized pipe with your own hands: step by step instructions How to make a corner from tin

Despite the many different tin blanks that are sold in building supermarkets, sometimes when installing gutters, ventilation or other similar engineering systems there is a need to install parts of a non-standard configuration or size. Therefore, many home craftsmen are interested in how to make a pipe out of tin with their own hands.

Features of the material used

Before starting work, it is advisable to carefully familiarize yourself with the features of the material from which the pipe is supposed to be constructed. Tin is an ordinary sheet of steel with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.7 mm. It is formed by sequential rolling of the billet through the rollers of the rolling mill.

However, the processing does not end there. In order to protect the resulting sheet from corrosion, it must be coated with a layer of another substance that does not oxidize in air.

As a result, the warehouse finished products arrive steel sheets, the width of which, according to GOST, can be 51.2-100 cm, coated with an ultra-thin layer of zinc, chromium or tin.

Note!
The material is very plastic, which allows you to process it at home.
On the other hand, when arranging stiffeners, you can get a structure that is as strong as thicker steel.

Given that the price of tin is also low, it is often used to make many different parts. complex shape.

Required Tools

Cutting and bending sheets of tin does not require much effort. However, it will be useful to arm yourself special tools and accessories, a list of which is given in the table.

Tool	Purpose
Metal shears	Used to cut sheet metal into blanks right size. Max Thickness material, as you know, 0.7 mm, so it is enough to apply only a slight muscular effort.
Kiyanka	You can replace it with a rubber mallet, as well as a steel tool with rubber pads that do not leave dents on the tin during use.
Pliers	Used to make bends. Can be replaced with ticks.
Workbench	For marking and cutting, it is necessary to place a sheet of tin on a flat surface. Best to use carpenter's workbench, but you can also cut on the floor, cleared of large debris.
Calibrating elements	Their role is played by a thick-walled steel pipe with a diameter of about 100 mm (or round wood) and a steel corner 75 mm wide. It is fixed on the edge of the workbench or clamped in a carpenter's vice. The pipe will be needed to make the longitudinal seam of the pipe.
Marker	Used for marking on sheet metal. It is a thin steel rod with a sharp end.
Measuring tool	This includes rulers, tape measures, squares and other similar devices.

Work process

Let's start making a pipe from tin with our own hands.

The whole process can be divided into several main stages:

1. Training. This includes marking the product and cutting out individual blanks from a piece of tin.
2. Molding. At this stage, the initial formation of a round tube takes place.
3. Compound. Here it is necessary to finally sew the parts into the finished product.

Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Step 1. Preparation

Complex instructions are not needed here, everything is very simple:

• the sheet is placed on a flat area (workbench or floor);
• a segment is measured from the top edge, equal to the length future pipe (marks can be made with a marker or a special marker);
• then a line is drawn through the mark using a square, perpendicular to the upper edge of the sheet;
• on the upper edge and the line drawn at the bottom, the width of the workpiece is measured, which is equal to the circumference of the pipe (moreover, 15 mm must be added to this parameter to arrange the joint);
• all marks are connected, after which the workpiece is cut along the resulting lines.

Advice!
Knowing the diameter of the pipe, you can easily calculate the circumference (blank width) using the well-known formula L \u003d π D, where π is 3.14, D is the diameter of the future part.

Step 2. Shaping

After receiving the workpiece, it is necessary to form a round profile of the future pipe.

Here the work is done like this:

1. The line for the folds is marked. Its width is 0.5 cm on one side and 1 cm on the other. The folds are bent at an angle of 90 degrees to the plane of the tin sheet. To do this, you can use a steel corner and a mallet.

A sheet of tin is placed on the edge of the table with an offset to the desired length, then its edge is gently bent with the blows of a rubber hammer. At the end of the work, it should be in close contact with the lower plane of the corner.

Work should be done evenly along the entire length of the workpiece. To facilitate the procedure, you can use pliers.

1. Then, on a centimeter fold, another bend is made in the shape of the letter G. The upper part (its width should be 0.5 cm) must be made parallel to the sheet of tin. It is advisable to pre-mark and for this bend.

1. Upon completion of work with folds, we proceed to work on the pipe itself. For this, a pre-stocked round part is used. Having placed a sheet of tin on it, you should use a mallet to give it a rounded shape. This should be done gradually along the entire length of the sheet until the bent edges meet.

Step 3. Docking

It remains only to combine the edges and fasten the seam. To do this, the horizontal section of the larger fold is bent down, covering the opposite edge. Then the protruding seam is bent to the plane of the pipe with a mallet.

Today, we throw a very large variety of packaging products into the trash can every day, however, some products can be a good source for doing all sorts of DIY crafts.

So, as an example, you can take an empty can of tin from lemonade or beer. Mostly crafts from cans perform the function of decor, but if you turn on your imagination and fantasy, you can build something useful and usable for the home.

Do-it-yourself lighting fixtures from cans

Almost any bank can be found useful application, so, for example, it is possible to make a very stylish and original ceiling lamp. Therefore, the first step is to remove upper part the bottom of the can, using ordinary scissors or a clerical knife.

If you have a penchant for drawing, then the jar can be colorfully painted or simply painted on the inside and outer side. After that, it is necessary to mount a cartridge with a light bulb to the bank. Everything, a bright and unique lamp is ready for use.

Also from beer cans you can make an interesting and beautiful table lamp, which can decorate the room with its unusual look.

So for the manufacture of a lampshade, it is necessary to use only the tongues from the cans, but for the lamp stand, you can use the tin itself. To connect all the tongues from the cans into a single and unified structure, it is necessary to make a small incision on each tongue, after which all the tongues must be connected to each other, and then the cut is reconnected.

Country interior decoration

Very interesting application tin cans can also be found for suburban use. For example, they can be used in the manufacture garden furniture, armchair and table very a good idea use empty aluminum cans.

So, in order to make a chair, you need to connect all the cans together using a very powerful and reliable glue. For a more stable position of the chair, and so that it does not deform from the weight of the person sitting on it, it is advisable to fill each jar with sand after gluing.

Can alcohol burner

Also, for many amateur travelers, it is very important to provide everything necessary for hiking, especially a burner. Therefore, many tourists independently make alcohol lamps from aluminum cans, which are quite capable of replacing a conventional gas burner.

It is worth noting that the weight of a home-made spirit stove hardly exceeds 50 grams, while gas-burner has a weight of about 3.5 kg.

Candlestick-flashlight from a beer can

So, to perform such crafts on the jar itself, you will have to make deep vertical cuts at a distance of 3-4 cm between them. This process is carried out sharp knife, it is necessary to cut carefully slowly, if necessary, you can use a ruler for a more even cut.

After the can is cut, it must be gently pressed down a little from above, resulting in interesting design flashlight. If you don't like color design candlestick, then you can paint it yourself with a special spray in the color you need.

Butterflies from beer cans and other figurines

It takes a lot of patience to make this kind of craft. So, from an empty tin, you need to remove two bottoms. The result is a rectangular sheet of tin.

Note!

Carefully cut out the finished shape with scissors along the contour of the pattern, for example, a butterfly.

When the shape of the butterfly is ready, you can give it a more natural look, give the wings a little life and decorate the butterfly a little in a bright color.

Thus, before throwing away an empty aluminum can of beer or drink, think, if you only turn on your imagination and imagination, then you can make useful crafts there are a lot of beautiful and useful things from tin cans that your relatives and friends will be able to appreciate.

Photo crafts from cans

Note!

Note!

If this page is loading slowly, its main images can be opened and viewed in the "Drawings, schemes, drawings of the site" catalog.

Cap - a cap made of galvanized sheet for a brick pillar.

Choose any height "h", or taking into account the dimensions of the finished column. It is sometimes useful to increase the landing dimensions "a" and "b" by 5 - 10 mm, depending on the quality of the masonry. The size "d" can be "estimated" with a tape measure directly on the pole, or count according to the formula below.

* Put pattern front side up. Drill a hole Ø3.5 mm. Bend the stiffeners (15mm) down by almost 90°. Bend all dotted lines at an angle of 90°. The deflection of the lines should be done in a sheet bender, at least in a home-made one from two corners (it will not be done for long). Then the bending lines will be straight, clear, without dents, and the product will eventually have an aesthetic appearance. If there is no bender, then bend the line "a" and "b" as usual; bend lines "A" and "B" on a piece of corner No. 50 - 63 fixed on the edge of the workbench with the shelf up. To bend plane A or B all at once, or almost all of it, use a bar (picket) 25x45 mm 30-40 cm long.

Bend the faces along the lines "d" to the correct rectangular shape cap, umbrella. To do this, have a narrow mandrel: a corner 50 with a cut shelf, or attached to it metal strip 1.5-2 mm thick, a saw blade is even better.

Check the fit of the upper (closing) stiffener to the back (rear) plane of the cap. Once again check that the product is not skewed; mark with a thin marker a reciprocal hole of 3.5 mm; punch, drill, and fix the assembly with a 3.2 mm rivet.

Bend the planes along the lines "A" and "B" inside the umbrella (into its place), holding it with your hands between a strip of metal (2 mm thick, 40-45 mm wide, ~ 30 cm long); and a bar (fence) 25x45 mm of suitable length. If necessary, seal this bend with a mallet. If necessary, slightly upset the top of the closing stiffener at the top of the cap.

The lower belt of the cap can be omitted from the pattern, but made separately. Bend a rectangle from a strip of appropriate length and width landing dimensions"a" and "b"; bend the sides in its upper part for rigidity and fastening, and put it inside the cap before the final bending of the planes along the lines "A" and "B". If necessary, secure with a 3.2 mm rivet.

In the manufacture of caps large sizes divide the pattern into two halves, but not along the angular lines "d", but along the midpoints of opposite planes-faces. Connect the halves with two slatted "seams", placing the slats inside the umbrella, with the right side to the connection. A seam seam, especially on dyed material, can (and will) look messy. Do the lower belt for large caps separately.

Outside view of the cap small height- see drawing of square umbrella on page " gas extractor".

Simplified pole cap with brick belt:

For support posts and metal poles made of profile pipes are used in the form of small caps. Plugs are made of thicker metal, usually in the shape of a low pyramid.

See the "Steel Roofing" page for making single and double connecting seams.

The node of the passage of the duct of the exhaust pipe in the roof of the roof.

The box is installed (put on) on a rectangular glass, all sides of which are 3-4 mm smaller than the sides of the box. The glass at the angle of the roof slope is riveted with a sheet of the same color as the color of the roof. It is convenient to draw a pattern of a box and an adjusting cutting glass on one tin sheet. With a small height of the structure, the ventilation (or protective, heat-insulating) duct can be connected directly to the roofing sheet, i.e. without an intermediate glass.

Mark a rectangular hole on the back (not front) side roofing sheet cutting. The dimensions of the sheet should be taken such that with a sufficient margin (at least 20 cm each) to cover the sections of the roof adjacent to the pipes, and cover the part of the sheet from the side of the ridge with the roof sheet from above.

Check the tightness of the glass on the sheet. Mark the reciprocal holes Ф3.5 mm for attaching the tailgate. Remove the glass, drill holes. Before the final installation of the glass on the sheet, apply sealant or any water-frost-resistant glue under the fastening sides. Fix with rivets 3.2 mm tailgate; then side and front.

Glass and box (already with an umbrella) alternately install (put on) on exhaust pipes for their heat-moisture insulation and improvement of appearance. From the side of the roof ridge in the lower part of the structure, additionally install a bumper corner in front of it to drain flowing water, especially if the flow pressure increases on a steep or long slope of the roof.

square umbrella and his pattern, pattern round umbrella for a pipe with a diameter of 160 mm - on the page "Gas hood".

Umbrella, "chimney", weather vane.

Choose any height of the umbrella. If small sections are cut off in the end parts in their upper corner (along the "K" line), then the "chimney" will have two additional windows for extraction. From above, close these windows with a protruding ridge, the ends of which can be cut off figuratively. According to the level of the same line ("K"), you can do one thing rectangular window in the upper part of the entire umbrella, which will have to be protected from above by a second umbrella, but smaller. Wind vane - an umbrella with a weather vane, often a combination of two umbrellas of various sizes and shapes is called a wind vane; one of her simple options on this. The pattern of the main (large) part can be divided into two identical parts - along the line of its ridge.

Drill four holes Ø 3.5 mm in two end pieces.

Bend all stiffeners along lines "d" by almost 90°.

Bend the stiffeners 15 mm along lines "A" and "B" by 90 °.

Bend the umbrella along the line of the ridge to the angle of the planes.

Bend all lines *60, taking into account the slope of the umbrella planes.

It is desirable to do bending in a bending machine - even a home-made one from two corners will significantly improve the quality of bending lines and appearance products.

Temporarily fix the main part on a flat surface, maintaining the "B" dimension.

Tightly attach the end piece to the main one. Mark reciprocal holes f 3.5 mm; drill. Fix the assembly with 3.2 mm rivets.

Racks are made from strips of the same material, folding the strip (w. 105-110 mm, length about 40 cm) twice - i.e. in three layers of 35 mm, WITHOUT DISCHARGE along the fold lines to maintain rigidity.

Marking holes for attaching racks to an umbrella:

In size calculationy"3 cm to accept an umbrella for boxes or belts made of tin, 6 cm - for an umbrella for a brick pipe.

Tee for extraction.

Mark and cut a hole in the pattern of the main nozzle "D". The lower drawing shows (as an example) the exact marking of the entry hole d 140 mm to D 150 mm. On the page "Gas hood" there is a drawing of marking the inlet for a tee that combines a diameter of 120 mm with a pipe of 140 mm; and a branch with a diameter of 120 mm, as the most commonly used when arranging an individual gas heating in a private house or apartment.

Marking the inlet with a diameter of 140 mm into a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm:

Prepare the folds, "roll" the branch pipe "D" into the shape of a pipe, but do not connect the folded seam.

Temporarily install the inlet pipe "d" into the rolled up (but not sealed at the seam) pipe "D". Align the mutual position of the nozzles. Branch pipe "d" (inlet) is cut off and cut along the line of the inlet. Bend the bead 8 - 10 mm wide along the cut line on the branch pipe "d" as shown in the figure.
Install the inlet pipe into the tee from the inside of the "opened" through pipe "D", fasten the folds, check the tightness of the adjoining parts. Seal the seam seam, drill reciprocal holes Ø 3.5 mm - fix the assembly with rivets Ø 3.2 mm. If necessary, add any sealing material to the connection line from the inside of the tee: putty, paint, sealant.

When extracting from gas equipment, from heating boiler or from water heater, the tightness of the connections should be given special attention.

Corners, ventilation outlets and gas ducts.

A simplified method for marking the mate line of branch links is presented, which, although approximate, but quite applicable in practice, gives a pattern. Reducing the number of retract links (angle) increases distortion and the need for adjustment (cutting) during assembly. Precise patterns branches are built using descriptive geometry techniques.

Pattern and marking of the mating line of the links of the three-link branch by 90 degrees.

See the exact (in numbers) marking of the curved line for an outlet with a diameter of 120 mm on the "Gas hood" page. The pattern and marking of the line of pairing of links for a five-link bend of 90 degrees is on the page "Tee, bends, transitions". The patterns of the left side of the patterns are mirrored to the right side.

Connect the marking points into a smooth line, mirror the resulting pattern on the right.

Pattern and approximate marking of the interface line of two right angle links:

The pattern is given on the drawing right angle ninety degrees for a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

Feeder for rabbits.

Pattern for making a bunker-type feeder from galvanized sheet. The drawing shows the dimensions of the details of the feeder with a capacity of 3.5 liters of dry bulk feed.

Rivet assembly can be replaced resistance welding or spot soldering.

Drill all holes in the details of the first (trial) instance. Make cuts along the edges of the fold lines of the back and inner walls. Bend the fastening boards 15 mm by 90 degrees. Bend the 25 mm line of the rear wall inward by about 135 degrees, shape the feeder tray. Bend the inner and back walls to their working positions using side walls as a conductor. Make sure the holes match. If necessary, correct their location on the details of the following instances. Connect the inner wall with 3.2mm rivets to both side walls. Invest in back wall, install rivets.

The feeder can be supplemented with a top cover and fastening elements to the cage.

Drainage funnel, gutter.

Dimensions, figured cut of the top and artistic elements of the water intake funnel - at the discretion of the performer. It is useful to increase the width of the strip for cutting each section of the gutter following the flow of water by 1 - 2 mm.

In connection with large quantity material, some drawings and drawings have been moved to other pages, in accordance with their subject matter.

Patterns of a confuser, a diffuser, a transition from a round section to a round section of a different diameter (bucket), from a rectangular section to a round section, to a rectangular section - are on the page "Drawings, schemes, drawings of the site".

You can buy galvanized pipes freely, but the cost of such products can be quite high, so the desire to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands is dictated, first of all, by considerations of economy.

At the same time, the manufacture of galvanized pipes does not require the use of special efforts, special expensive fixtures and tools and some kind of professional knowledge, so anyone can handle this House master, in the arsenal of which there is a set of standard carpentry tools.

Galvanized metal pipes are used for chimney equipment, they are popular because of light weight and, consequently, ease of installation. Galvanized chimneys do not require the construction of a foundation, and this significantly reduces the cost of chimney equipment.

These pipes meet the standards fire safety, withstanding temperature regime up to 900°, so they can even be used for smoke extraction from solid fuel heating boilers and stoves.

Also, galvanized pipes in home construction are used for drain equipment. Such pipes are already quite affordable in terms of costs, but at the same time, the process can be made even cheaper using hand-made products.

What you need to make a galvanized pipe

At home, to make a galvanized pipe, you need a sheet of tin, the material does not require much effort due to its softness and plasticity.

tin industrial way are made from thin sheet steel with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.7 mm on rolling machines, after which they are coated with an anti-corrosion protective layer of chromium, tin or zinc. Finally, the workpieces are cut standard sizes, width from 512 mm to 2000 mm.

The strength of such products is in no way inferior to steel counterparts, especially if the material has additional stiffeners, but at the same time it is very plastic and allows you to mount pipelines of complex shape manually. Anti-corrosion coating provides protection of the pipe from environmental influences.

Tinsmith works.

Tinsmiths work mainly with thin metal: tinned and black tin, with black and galvanized sheet iron. The tinsmith must be able to use his tools and, in addition, have a good knowledge of soldering and riveting.

Markup. Gonna make it from a piece sheet metal any detail, we must have an exact plan of this detail. The detail plan can be mental or sketched on paper in the form of a sketch, drawing, description. Finally, to draw up a plan, you can have a sample or mock-up of the part on hand.

Transferring a plan of a part with its exact dimensions to a workpiece is called a marking operation (marking). Usually, not all dimensions of the part are transferred to the metal, but only those main lines and points along which the workpiece will be processed. Lines, borders, markings on the workpiece are called risks.

The markup is flat and spatial (volumetric); flat marking is used in the manufacture of sheet metal parts. At the same time, the marking process itself is no different from ordinary drawing.

Marking is carried out on marking plates. At home, we replace the stove with an even thick metal sheet.

The set of tinsmith's tools used for marking is not large: a center punch, a scriber, a metalwork compass, a metalworker's square and a tinsmith's thickness gauge.

A center punch (Fig. 1) is the main tool required for marking. The punch is sharpened at an angle of 60 °. A center punch for marking holes is sharpened with an angle at the top of 120 °.

We markup as follows: we select the base point at which we make a recess with a center punch. Then we draw the base line. We must fix all the distances measured from the base by making recesses in the metal with a center punch, and so on until all the necessary marks are obtained.

We apply risks to the workpiece with a scriber (Fig. 2). It is a piece of wire with a loop at one end, while the other end is sharpened and hardened.

A locksmith's compass (Fig. 3) is used to transfer dimensions from a drawing to a workpiece and to draw circle elements. When drawing a circle on the workpiece in the center of the circle, we make sure to deepen it with a center punch.

When marking, a locksmith's square is always needed (Fig. 4). Use it to mark 90° angles.

The marking of the edges of the workpiece for the so-called flanging is carried out with a tinsmith's planer (Fig. 5).

Sheet metal cutting. Sheet metal up to 1 mm thick is cut with metal scissors (Fig. 6). This process has some features: when cutting, we feed the sheet with our left hand, slightly bending it upwards (Fig. 7, a). We do not open the scissors very much so that they grab the sheet, and do not push it out. During the cutting process, the marking line should always be in our field of vision (Fig. 7.6).

Other support processes. Tinsmiths make small holes in sheet metal with punches (Fig. 8) or punches (Fig. 9). To accurately punch a hole with a punch, use an auxiliary steel plate in which a number of holes are drilled. The diameter of each hole in the plate should be slightly larger than the diameter of the working end of the corresponding punch. The workpiece is first punched in the right place and placed on an auxiliary plate so that the punched place is exactly above the hole of the required diameter. The punch is placed in a punched place and a hole is punched with a hammer blow (Fig. 10).

To increase the diameter of the punched hole, we expand it with a beard (Fig. 11). To obtain larger holes, cuttings are used (Fig. 12): we put the sheet on the end cut of a wooden block and punch a hole with a hammer.

On the tinsmith's workbench there is a vise and a dressing plate - a sheet of thick steel with flat surface. Sheet metal is straightened (aligned) on the plate. Hammers - wooden hammers (Fig. 13) serve as a tool for editing. mallets are made from hard rock wood - oak, beech, etc.

A good small mallet, which does not give any nicks when processing the sheet, that is, dents in the metal, is made as follows. An oak or beech blank is cut out as shown in fig. 14. The mallet is put on the handle, and one end of the mallet is covered with a rubber tip from the crutch. The teeth on the rubber tip are cut with a knife and filed with a rasp.

The blanks cut from the sheet are interconnected by the so-called tin locks (they will be discussed below). To obtain a lock, each piece of the sheet is previously properly folded (beaded) along the edge. Flanging is carried out on special crowbars - bars square section with tapered ends (Fig. 15). At home, instead of scrap, a piece of angle steel is used, fixed on the edge of the workbench.

The hammer used for tinsmith work usually weighs 200-400 g, the toe of such a hammer is beveled in one direction and pointed (Fig. 16).

In addition to the listed tools, the tinsmith needs pliers, wire cutters, files, steel brushes, scrapers and other metalwork tools.

Soldering work.

Soldering works occupy a special place in the tinsmith, with the help of which the seams are sealed.

The main tool for soldering is a hammer-type soldering iron (Fig. 17) weighing 500 g. Its heating is carried out by a tinsmith blowtorch or at gas stove. Convenient to work electric soldering iron hammer type with a power of 200-300 W (Fig. 18).

Details before soldering are carefully cleaned and degreased with some solvent (white spirit, B-70 gasoline, acetone), but not entirely, but only in places subjected to soldering. Cleaned places are smeared with flux and tinned (coated with solder). Then the parts are applied to each other in an appropriate way, fixed or clamped with clamps in this position and the seam is heated with a soldering iron. The heating of the seam is considered sufficient when the solder, having melted, partially flows out of the gap. After that, the parts are cooled in air, and the soldering can be considered complete.

The type of seam is chosen before soldering, depending on the purpose of the structure (product). Where it is necessary to ensure the strength of the connection, the parts are soldered with an overlap seam (Fig. 19, a). If, in addition to strength, they want to give the joint a good appearance, they use a butt seam with an overlay (Fig. 19.6).

In the manufacture of various containers, tanks, plugs, etc. the types of seams indicated in fig. 19, c.

Basic tin work. These works involve connecting all kinds of parts to each other with the help of tin locks (they are sometimes called folds). Let's consider them.

A single lock without hooking (Fig. 20, a) and with hooking (Fig. 20.6) are the simplest of this series of locks. But single ones are inferior in strength double locks, the simplest of which is shown in Fig. 20, c.

There are many known single and double locks: single standing (Fig. 20, d), double standing (Fig. 20, e), single corner standing (Fig. 20, f), single corner bent (Fig. 20, g), etc. .

Standing locks are used for roofing works. A single corner standing one is made in the manufacture of various lids, jars with a wide base, etc. The bottom of the cans is embedded using a single corner bent lock.

Let's get acquainted with how some locks are made.

The manufacture of a single lock begins with flanging the edges of both connected parts (Fig. 21, a), with the edge of the first part flanging in one direction, and the edge of the second in the other. After marking, the edge of one part is laid on scrap (corner) so that the marking line runs along the edge of the scrap.

With a few light blows, the mallets bend the edge, first along the edges of the sheet, then in its middle. The edge prepared in this way is carefully bent along the entire length by 90 ° using a mallet. The same operation is done with the second sheet. Having finished flanging, align the fold along the length of the sheet.

The next operation is to fill up the fold with a mallet (Fig. 21.6). After that, the edges are brought into the lock (Fig. 21, c) so that they fit tightly and exactly along the entire seam. Seal the seam with a mallet, substituting scrap under it. The final operation is cutting the fold. An even metal strip is applied to its raised side and this side is besieged with hammer blows to the level of the plate (Fig. 21, d). After cutting the fold, it can no longer spontaneously open.

Let's say that in this way we made the main buckets by connecting the sheet single seam. It is necessary to attach a bottom to it.

The first operation when inserting the bottom is beating the fold. It is made according to preliminary marking on a scrap (corner). With the toe of a hammer, the fold is carefully beaten off, laying the workpiece on a hollow scrap (Fig. 22, a). The blows are applied so that they fall on the edge of the folded fold; the blows themselves should not be strong so as not to break the metal. As the fold is bent, the workpiece is placed steeper and steeper until the fold is bent 90 °.

To make the bottom of the bucket, mark a circle on the sheet with an allowance for the bend of the fold. They cut it out, beat off the fold on a piece of pipe fixed on a workbench (Fig. 22.6). They put the bottom on the base of the bucket and bend the edge with a hammer, carefully compacting it (Fig. 22, c). The result is a single corner standing lock. They bend it with a hammer on the pipe and also carefully seal it (Fig. 22, d). The bucket is almost ready - it remains only to attach a handle to it and roll a wire into its upper edge.

The beating of the fold for rolling the wire is carried out with a mallet on the blunt edge of the scrap. This process is no different from beating a seam for the bottom, except that the bending of the edge should be made smoother (Fig. 22, e). After bending the edge by 90 °, further bending is carried out using a mandrel (Fig. 22, f). After the fold is bent 180 °, a pre-prepared wire ring is inserted into it and the fold is upset with the toe of a hammer (Fig. 22, g), then the wire ring is grabbed with pliers in several places and the edge is rolled up with a mallet rough (Fig. 22, h) .

It remains the final operation - finishing seaming. Finishing is carried out with the toe of a hammer so that the edge completely fits the wire ring (Fig. 22,i); then they rivet the lugs for the handle and put the handle itself.

Let's move on to the preparation of gutters. They are made of roofing (preferably galvanized) iron. According to the diameter of the gutters, the width of the blanks * (strips) is determined, taking into account the seam allowance. Usually they are made with a diameter of 120-150mm.

The strips are sewn into a tape with a single lock with undercut. After that, the tape is beaded on both sides into the future gutter (Fig. 23, a). Then both flanges are deposited along the entire length (Fig. 23.6).

Using instead of a mandrel a suitable diameter metal or asbestos-cement pipe, bend the gutter along the entire length with a mallet. In this case, it is convenient to use stops - two bars fixed on a workbench (Fig. 23, c).

The gutters are suspended under the edge of the roof overhang on brackets made of pieces of strip iron 3-4 mm thick and 18-25 mm wide.

Two holes are drilled in each bracket-bracket for attaching it to the house and two holes for fixing the gutter with a wire in the bracket-bracket (Fig. 23, d).

Brackets-brackets are attached under the edge of the roof overhang so that the gutter has a slight slope towards the intended rainwater runoff. They do it this way: having fixed all the brackets temporarily, they install a gutter and pour water into it, watching where it flows. Raising or lowering the brackets-brackets achieve the desired result. Then the brackets-brackets are finally strengthened. Lay the gutters and fix them with wire.

It should be noted that such fastening of gutters allows them to be removed at the beginning of winter. This is necessary, as snow sliding off the roof can severely damage the gutters.

Tinsmiths make drainpipes from galvanized iron. The diameter of the pipes is determined and strips of the required width are prepared (with a seam allowance). First, the fold is filled up on both sides according to the markup. The pipe is bent on a suitable tubular mandrel, using the stops on the workbench (see Fig. 23, c). Connect the edges with a single lock with hooking.

The water intake pipe is somewhat more difficult to make. The cylinder of the water intake is connected with a single lock with a hook (Fig. 24, a). Then a fold is beaten off to connect the water intake cylinder with the conical part.

Using a single lock with hooking, a conical part is made according to the marking. Mark and beat off the fold on both sides of the conical part of the water intake (Fig. 24.6). They fill up and clog both locks (Fig. 24, c). Get single corner standing locks.

On fig. 24d shows the connection sequence of the pipe elbow.

Medicinal works.

Historically, copper works appeared many centuries earlier than tin works. But here we consider them not by the time of occurrence, but by complexity. Tinsmith work came out of coppersmiths, separated from them in independent view works. But there are still a lot of similarities between them. Therefore, a number of operations, which we have considered above, fully apply to copper works, and we will not re-state them. We will only talk about specific copper works.

The main metal from which the name of the profession comes is copper. Among other brands, coppersmiths distinguish the following: M0, M1, M2 and MZ. In addition to copper, some brands of brass are used. The most preferred here are L90 (tompac), L89 and L80 (semi-tompak).

Usually sheet metal with a thickness of 0.8-1.2 mm is used. Annealed, it easily bends with fingers. Copper is annealed in the following way. The sheet (blank) is heated to a dark red heat (500-650°C) and instantly cooled in water. You can also cool in the open air, but the plasticity of the metal will be somewhat worse.

Brass is annealed at a temperature of 600-700 ° C (red heat color). Cool brass in the open air.

Coppersmiths, in addition to tin tools, use a specific tool for planting and punching sheet metal in the manufacture of convex parts or products.

Copper ironers' hammers differ in shape from ordinary ones (Fig. 25, a). These hammers are used to flatten the folds along the edge of the metal when obtaining spherical parts. Folds along the edge of the sheet metal are created in advance with round-nose pliers or special corrugations (Fig. 25, b).

Convex and shaped parts are knocked out by coppersmiths using wooden hammers of various shapes (Fig. 25, c). There are a number of mandrels, dies, racks, etc. of various shapes.

Consider how a spherical blank is knocked out on a stand. The process begins with bending the edge of the workpiece on the stand (Fig. 26, a). The workpiece must be annealed before punching. The bent workpiece is corrugated (Fig. 26, b). The workpiece prepared in this way is subjected to processing called corrugation fitting (Fig. 26, c). Landing corrugations has its own subtleties. Firstly, they try to make the corrugation wide and not very high. The stand on which the landing is made, just like the strikers of the hammers, should not have scratches and dents, and the hammers themselves are taken with a diameter of 60-80 mm.

Further. The landing of the corrugation begins from its top, then it is hit on one side of it, then on the other, and they gradually move to its wide part, that is, to the edge of the workpiece. As soon as 1/3 of the length of the corrugation is planted, they proceed to planting the next one. After landing all the corrugations on 1/3 - no more! - landing each corrugation on the next third, and so on, until full fit corrugations.

After planting the corrugations, the middle of the workpiece is knocked out (Fig. 26, d). The punch is driven by wooden hammers with a spherical head, on flat plate or anvil. The workpiece is hit often, but not particularly hard. First they hit in the middle of the workpiece, then the blows are distributed along the spiral diverging to the edges.

After the completion of the first cycle (corrugation - corrugation - punching), the operations are repeated a second, then a third time, and so on until the desired shape of the part is obtained. After each operation of the punch, the workpiece is annealed. Annealing removes all stresses in the part and makes the metal ductile after work hardening formed during the fitting of corrugations and punching.

The finished part is finished on the stand with a hammer with a wide and flat head of the appropriate shape. This process is called ironing (Fig. 26, e). There are options for this process. If ironing is carried out with a steel hammer, then we get semi-antique processing. If it is driven with a mallet with a plastic (kapron) striker, then the surface will be flat - “modern”.

Ironing is carried out from the center along a divergent spiral. The blows are not strong, close to each other.

Punching parts on a matrix, or, as it is often called, a blank, is an easier and simpler process than a punch on a stand, and coppersmiths are more willing to use it when making a series of identical parts.

The corresponding matrix is ​​machined from wood, taking into account the size and shape of the future part. An annealed copper (brass) sheet is fixed on it (Fig. 27, a). With wooden shaped hammers, the gradual knocking out of the part begins. It begins to lead from the edge of the workpiece in a converging spiral. The knockout process is carried out in several cycles. After each cycle, the workpiece is lowered by 1/4-1/8 of the total depth of the drift (Fig. 27, b). After the workpiece sits on the bottom of the matrix, it is ironed with a steel hammer with a wide striker.

In addition to punching, coppersmiths also use the cold drawing method to manufacture various parts. lathe. According to this method, the desired wooden matrix is ​​machined on the lathe planner. An annealed sheet of metal is fixed on the matrix (Fig. 28, a) and the machine is turned on at the lowest speed. The workpiece is processed with special crushers (Fig. 28, b). The crusher is brought to the edge of the matrix, pressed with some effort to the metal and gradually moved to the center of the workpiece. As a result of this, a hole is formed in the workpiece (Fig. 28, c). The technique is repeated several times, the hole is deepened so that the workpiece is aligned exactly with the matrix (Fig. 28, d). The detail is ready; she has smooth edges and smooth surface.

Copper work includes, in addition to those considered by us, bending and expanding tubes.

It is easy to bend tubes with a large radius manually without any special devices. When bending tubes of complex shape with sufficiently large radii, wooden patterns. The tubes are pre-annealed.

When bending tubes along small radii, forces arise in them that can flatten the tube at the bend. To prevent this from happening, they fill the tube with dry sand, nail it firmly on both sides. wooden stoppers and bend the tube along the conductor (template). Instead of sand, molten lead is poured into the tube, cooled and bent. After that, the lead is smelted. Sometimes the tubes are bent by freezing the water in them first.

For bending tubes along a small radius, use special device(Fig. 29, a). The basis of the fixture is a roller machined on a lathe. It has a notch (stream) of a semicircular shape. The diameter of the stream d is equal to the diameter of the bent tube. The small diameter of the roller D is equal to the diameter of the circle along which - like a jig - the tube will bend. The roller, together with two quadrangular pads, is bolted to the workbench. This is where the stop is set. The tube is inserted with one end over the stop, inserted into the roller stream and bent, pressing the long end of the tube as if it were a lever. It is not for nothing that the device has linings: when bending the tube, they prevent it from flattening.

Curly bending of tubes is carried out using several conductors installed in a certain order on a workbench (Fig. 29, b).

The flaring of the tubes is carried out in the same way as the flaring of the caps. For flaring thick tubes, that is, large in diameter, methods similar to flanging and flexible seam are suitable.

Cutting tubes at home is done with an ordinary hacksaw using a wooden mandrel. The mandrel (Fig. 29, c) consists of two beech bars with grooves for clamping tubes. The tube is cut so that new sections of it fall under the hacksaw all the time. This is achieved by rotating the tube in the mandrel (Fig. 29d).

Recently, interest in the interior (especially kitchens) in a rural style has increased. In the paraphernalia of such an interior, there must be objects made of copper or brass: plates, bowls, teapots, etc. It is almost impossible to get these items. They even bring them from abroad!

Consider how to make, for example, a bowl from a hemispherical blank. If the workpiece is processed a little, then the bowl is ready. Its edges are bent (Fig. 30, a) and leveled with a file. You can bend the edge onto the wire ring. The bowl is almost ready, but does not stand straight on the table. You need to make a flat bottom. They do it like this. They upset the bottom of the bowl. To do this, it is placed on a round mandrel (Fig. 30, b) and the bottom is leveled with a mallet. Then, on the dressing plate, smooth the bottom with a plastic mallet from the inside (Fig. 30, c).

Having stuffed your hand on the bowl, you can make a teapot (Fig. 31, a). It is made from two blanks for a bowl.

In the upper "bowl" a filler hole is cut out and beaded (Fig. 31, b). It is beaded on a special mandrel (Fig. 31, c), made of a steel strip 3-4 mm thick. A spout is soldered into the lower "bowl". The latter is made from a suitable tube. The tube is widened on a bar mandrel (Fig. 31, d), then bent in shape.

Having tinned the edge of the lower workpiece (near the hole for the spout) and the spout itself, they are soldered from the inside. To make the seam beautiful from the outside, a decorative ring made of wire with a diameter of about 2 mm is soldered.

Loops are soldered (or glued) to the upper "bowl" to secure the handle.

The lid is knocked out, a handle is fixed on it and a belt is soldered (Fig. 31, e).

Both halves of the teapot are soldered end-to-end with the overlay, having previously carefully fitted them to each other. Fitting is best done on big sheet medium-grained skin glued to a flat surface.

If the dishes made of copper (brass) are expected to be used for their intended purpose, then its parts are soldered and tinned inside with pure (so-called food) tin.

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