Do-it-yourself insulation and upholstery of entrance wooden doors. Upholster the door with dermantine How to upholster the door from the outside with dermantine

It is not always easy to choose the owner when choosing a finish for the front door. It is necessary to take care of the availability of high-quality in operation and aesthetic material. Modern manufacturers offer a wide range of such improvised tools to choose from. They can be dealt with at home without resorting to the use of expensive industrial equipment and tools.

The question of how to sheathe the door arises not only when installing a new one, but also when the old one becomes completely unpresentable. The right material can not only improve aesthetics, but also increase the reliability of the entire structure and provide heat and sound insulation. How to sheathe a door depends solely on the design features, than on financial condition and the interior of the apartment. Such "tuning" applies not only to the front door of a private house, it is also true for apartments in apartment buildings.

Actual materials

When the question arises of how to sheathe a door, most often homeowners use the following decorating methods for a metal surface:

  • laminate installation;
  • powder coating;
  • sheathing with wood or plastic;
  • usage faux leather.

Each of these methods has its own positive and negative properties. In most cases, all operations are carried out independently, since sheathing a door with invited specialists can sometimes be much more expensive than buying a new budget sash. Although independent work can drag on for a longer time, but in the end it will be possible to get the desired result.

The use of lining

Decorative cladding of entrance doors is often made with wooden clapboard. For more quality processing it is recommended to remove the canvas from the hinges. Then it is laid on wooden goats and cladding material is prepared.

Work begins with clear measurements. On a sheet of paper, a drawing is preliminarily drawn on a scale, which is supposed to be collected on the surface. For work, it is advisable to choose lining from hardwood, as this will serve as a guarantee of its long-term operation.

The use of wooden slats allows you to form any pattern on the surface from simple vertical or horizontal stripes to complex ornaments.

To keep wooden frame on a metal surface, it is enough to fix the planks on it around the perimeter using metal screws. Next, a decorative part is attached to the resulting base. The resulting cavity must be filled with stone wool or expanded polystyrene insulation. This will increase sound insulation and ensure the retention of heat inside the room.

After the metal door is sheathed with clapboard, the surface must be covered with a protective layer. Wood varnishes are also used.

Use of artificial leather

Artificial leather (kozhvini) - original, but very high quality material

In search of what else to sheathe the front door, it is traditionally customary to use artificial leather. This option improves the sound insulation of the room. The following operations are carried out:

  • an adhesive composition is applied to the surface to be treated;
  • immediately a layer of foam rubber or a similar material is laid on top of the glue;
  • after drying, an adhesive composition is also applied to the ends, and a canvas with leather is placed on top of it;
  • for additional fixation at the end, the material is fastened with staples from a stapler;
  • fittings are mounted in their places;
  • to ensure better fastening, it will be possible with the help of additional self-tapping screws that fix the canvas.

This type of upholstery, like all soft materials Not recommended for use in areas with animals.

Inexpensive and practical way cladding

To transform the appearance of a metal sheet, you can sheathe the front door with MDF boards. The following operations are carried out beforehand:

  • the surface is cleaned of mechanical impurities;
  • degreasing is done;
  • priming and painting of the treated surface;
  • in some cases, you can pre-paste the surface with a vinyl film.
  • holes for self-tapping screws are drilled along the surface of the canvas closer to the outer perimeter at a distance of 100-150 mm;
  • the connected surface of the MDF leaf with the door is processed using special glue;
  • through the holes we fasten the canvas with self-tapping screws.

The main load in such a situation will fall on the self-tapping screws, and the glue will provide a better fit so that the material does not “play”, but is more monolithic with the base. After that, you can mount the removed fittings in their places.

VIDEO: Replacing the mdf door lining

The popularity of laminate

Laminate is the most popular choice in sheathing

Before sheathing a metal door, you should pay attention to such material as a laminate. With it, the appearance of the door is easy to transform. Planks with a thickness of at least 7-8 mm are suitable for work. The material tolerates long-term exposure to ultraviolet radiation without losing color. This property makes it appropriate in the case of external door processing.

Sufficiently rigid strips are able to withstand mechanical force. They withstand moderate impacts with blunt objects without deformation. It should be noted that the laminate has several layers:

  • stabilizing paper with paraffin resins;
  • protective made of polymers;
  • base made of high-strength wood;
  • decorative paper with printed pattern.

It is most convenient to work with the door on a horizontal surface. This will ensure a better fit of the decorative material to the base surface. If it is not possible to remove the door from the hinges, then powerful clamps can be used to fix the trim on the door plane.

To fix the laminate on the sash, we hit the hardware from the door. Further, in order to sheathe a wooden door, it is enough to use decor and nails. If it is necessary to process a sheet of metal, then you will need to perform preliminary operations. In this case, wooden planks of small thickness are fixed to the edge of the surface with the help of “liquid” nails.

A plate of laminated elements is formed independently. Next, it must be applied over the door and fixed with nails or planted on an adhesive base.

If the web is horizontal, it is desirable to load the area for better penetration of the adhesive between the spliced ​​surfaces. For a vertical door, use small yews or clamps. Preliminarily, holes for fittings are formed on the shield. It is mounted after the glue has completely dried.

The above materials can be used for facing both metal and wooden doors. This will allow you to modify the entrance group, combine it with the general style of the house or apartment, as well as provide additional thermal insulation and a sound barrier. Actually, it is for such tasks that any front door is designed.

VIDEO: Upholstery wooden doors

VIDEO: Upholstery + soundproofing metal door+ do-it-yourself warming

Leatherette upholstery is a currently rarely used method of decorating a door leaf. But in some cases it justifies itself. Thanks to this method of finishing, several effects can be achieved at once: insulation, sound insulation and ennoblement of the old front door.

Depending on what material is used for upholstery, work can be done both with removing the door from its hinges and laying it out on horizontal surface and without taking it out of the box.

Door upholstery methods

There are three main ways to upholstery doors with leatherette:

  1. Upholstery interior doors using screw buttons.
  2. Classic upholstery with decorative nails.
  3. Tiled upholstery.

Each of these methods has its own advantages and the choice depends solely on the skills and tastes of the owner of the door. In addition, some of these methods cannot be applied to a panel door made of wooden blocks with fiberboard or plywood sheets glued to them (hollow sheets).

Leatherette upholstery materials

Leatherette is an artificial material, which is a fabric base with a polymer coating applied to it that imitates the skin. Modern leatherette has good performance (elasticity, sufficient strength, moisture resistance). Leatherette is easy to care for, wash with detergents. The main advantage is the breathability of leatherette.

As a filler (insulation and noise insulator), you can choose batting, foam rubber, polystyrene, technical wool or synthetic winterizer.

As fasteners are used:

  • nails;
  • decorative metal string;
  • Staples;
  • screw buttons;
  • glue.

Preparing the door for upholstery

If you plan to upholster an old door with leatherette, it must be repaired before starting work. First, they remove all the fittings: overhead locks, a doorknob, a peephole, an apartment number, a mailbox.

After that, the door is removed from the hinges and laid out on a flat horizontal surface. If there are deep defects on the door leaf, they are leveled with epoxy putty or filled with polystyrene foam patches. Through holes in the doors (from the peephole or lock mechanism), if they are not planned to be installed in place after upholstery, are closed with plywood, or clogged with a wooden chop or filled with mounting foam. Check if the door hinges need to be replaced.

Upholstery with screw buttons

Most suitable for paneled interior doors. It is impossible to drive a nail or stapler into a thin fiberboard, they will not be fixed. Glue is used to attach leatherette. It can be a "liquid nails" mounting adhesive or a similar construction adhesive designed for bonding building materials.

First, the door is marked out by applying a coordinate grid on it, which will allow you to evenly glue the base of the screw buttons to the canvas.

The bases of the buttons are glued to the marked places and left until the glue dries completely (usually 24 hours). After that, a heater with pre-cut holes is laid out on the door leaf, which must correspond to the locations of the buttons. The insulation can be fixed on the canvas with the help of construction stapler staples.

After that, the fabric of dermatin is laid out. In places of contact with the pins of the screw buttons, it is cut or pierced sharp knife and the pins of the buttons are brought out.

Excess leatherette and insulation are carefully trimmed around the perimeter of the door leaf with a sectional knife or scissors. Fix with staples construction stapler. Foam rubber can be fixed with glue.

Decorative button heads are screwed onto the protruding threaded pins. Along the perimeter of the door, PVC profiles are glued or fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. Work completed.

"Classic" door upholstery

They can only be upholstered with a wooden door made of solid wood. The method is convenient in that you can ennoble the door with leatherette without removing it from the hinges.

Handles are removed from the door, the door patch lock, the peephole is unscrewed. Insulation (batting, foam rubber) is fixed on the door leaf with the help of a stapler. Leatherette is placed on top of it, which is stretched and fixed with staples along the upper edge of the door.

After that, the actual upholstery of the door is made using decorative nails with wide hats. If a string is used to achieve an additional decorative effect, the nail heads are not completely achieved. A string is wrapped around them (1 turn around the axis) and only after that the nail is completely achieved.

Upholstery pattern options

Along the perimeter of the door, excess insulation and leatherette are trimmed.

A border is formed on the door frame, which allows you to close the gaps and contributes to better sound insulation. To do this, a strip of leatherette 100 mm wide is fixed from one edge with staples on the door frame. A tourniquet, folded from a heater, is laid along the strip and fixed at several points with a stapler. After that, starting from the top, the unfixed edge of the leatherette is tucked in such a way that the insulation bundle is inside the leatherette. The free edge is folded over and fixed with staples or upholstery nails with a small head.

If the front door opens outward, then the edging is formed on the door itself. To do this, before laying and fixing the insulation, the leatherette strip, from which the edging will be formed, is fixed along the perimeter of the door leaf, and the edging roller is formed after the door upholstery.

Tiled door upholstery

This is the most rarely used, but the most decorative way upholster the door with dermatin. Preliminary preparation of the door is carried out in the same way as in the first two cases.

The door must be removed from the hinges and laid out on a horizontal surface. You can use the glue method using screw buttons if the door is paneled or metal, or upholstery nails with wide heads if the door is solid wood.

Marking the door with a tiled method

The difference of this upholstery method lies in the use of diamonds of the same size pre-cut from leatherette instead of a solid canvas.

For rhombuses cut from leatherette, for ease of installation, one sharp corner is cut off. Upholstery starts from the bottom of the door. The first row of diamonds is fixed along the edge of the door with a stapler. Then sequentially, rhombus after rhombus, they are laid out on the surface of the insulation. The lower corner is fixed with a bracket. The edges of the rhombus are folded and the side corners are fixed with a screw button or nail, then the edges are again folded and the upper corner is fixed with a screw button (nail).

The formation of the edging for doors opening into the room is performed on the door frame, for those opening outward - on the door leaf, as in the case of upholstery in the "classic" way.

Leatherette upholstery of entrance or interior doors is one of the design solutions for the interior of a residential or office space in retro style. It can be easily done by hand, especially if ready-made sets of upholstery material are used for upholstery (leatherette glued to a foam base), which greatly facilitates the work process.

A material such as dermantin is very popular because of its technical properties and ease of care. So, leatherette is able to withstand harsh conditions of cold and moisture, is stable and durable, easy to clean and withstands high temperatures. Also dermantin is known because of its low cost. Of the minuses, the impossibility of restoring the material is noted: despite the resistance to mechanical stress, after damage to any area, the entire leaf will need to be replaced, because the door will lose its aesthetic appearance even after gluing the gaps.

Step-by-step guide to upholstery of iron and other doors with dermantine

Upholstery of doors with leatherette is an easy and inexpensive way to decorate and insulate a home, which begins with the entrance to a house or apartment.

To perform this work, you will need to know some of the features of the door trim. Namely: the properties and characteristics of leatherette, the lining material used, tools when working with wood or metal, decorative, fasteners and more.

Dermantine (from ancient Greek leather) is a type of artificial leather made from cotton fabric and a layer of nitrocellulose covering the fabric on one or both sides.

Leatherette for upholstery of doors is positioned on the market as a substitute for expensive genuine leather, not inferior to it in terms of individual characteristics. It is also used for furniture upholstery, book pieces, bags, wallets and car interiors.

Dermantin is a finishing material that has the following advantages:

  • Not subject to rotting and decomposition, resistant to various microorganisms;
  • Moisture resistant, does not allow moisture to penetrate into the layer of lining material, protecting it from mold and bad smell;
  • Relatively durable material that can last ten years with proper care;
  • Resistant to abrasion and chemical reagents (acids and alkalis);
  • Easy to wash and clean with conventional detergents: soap and powder;
  • Frost-resistant, able to withstand temperatures up to minus 35 degrees (depending on the type of leatherette).

Despite all the positive properties of dermantin, many are not satisfied with its shortcomings, namely: with the slightest damage (cut or rupture), the leather substitute cannot be repaired and a separate part replaced, thus full door upholstery with dermantin is required.

When burning, the leather substitute emits harmful substances that are unsafe for human health and contributes to the rapid spread of fire, as it is combustible and fire hazardous. These disadvantages are not so important, given that dermantin has a lot of useful consumer qualities, some of which are described above.

To distinctive properties dermantina include the fact that leatherette can be easily and simply cut, it does not crumple, does not wrinkle and does not shrink. In addition, there are enough on the market wide selection material color types from gray to red. So you can choose what will most harmoniously fit into the interior of the apartment.

What characteristics should be considered when buying leatherette? When buying leatherette for upholstery, you should pay attention to how the material stretches, whether it forms cracks when stretched. Also look at such a parameter as wear resistance, it should be at least 30,000, and preferably all 50,000 cycles. The greater the number of cycles, the stronger the fabric is to abrasion.

Leatherette should be resistant to kinks from bending the material and scratches. Also consider leatherette's UV resistance characteristics if your door is exposed to direct sunlight most of the time.

The surface of the leatherette can be smooth or matte, imitate aged leather, etc. Pay attention to the color scheme of the artificial turf, what color and texture will best harmonize with the design of handles and hinges, a peephole and other fittings.

Regular and decorative upholstery

When choosing material for upholstery in a store, take into account the type of door constriction. There are two types of screed: regular and decorative.

Regular upholstery includes simple finish door leaf smooth sheet leatherette, which is attached to the base only at the edges. A decorative tape is also attached around the perimeter, fixed to the door every 10 cm.

Decorative or carriage upholstery of doors with dermantine is a kind of decoration performed on a base of wood or MDF - panels nailed to the door leaf.

First, the fabric is stretched over the entire door leaf, and then in some places it is fixed with buttons or nails with leather caps. In this case, the pattern on the canvas from the buttons can be diamond-shaped or square, depending on the preferences of the owner of the premises.

Sheathing elements for a wooden door: rollers, lining material, nails

When preparing for a hauling, it is important to know about the basic materials and elements due to which the door sheathing process takes place.

rollers

When upholstering doors with dermantine, rollers are used. A roller is a special element that serves to protect the house from drafts and cold. It forms a tube of lining and leatherette, nailed around the entire perimeter of the entrance to the door leaf or to the door frame.

The method of placement depends on the type of door opening. If it opens into the room, then the roller is placed with reverse side from the entrance to the house. The roller should extend beyond the box by a few millimeters. In this case, the distance between the canvas and the roller should be such that the roller "slows down" the opening of the door and it slams shut with little effort.

Upholstery of doors with dermantine is carried out without a roller in only one case: if the metal structure is installed without special bars that allow you to attach rollers to them.

backing material

Upholstery lining is most often used foam rubber or isolon with the addition of batting. It is not excluded the use of one batting or synthetic winterizer. When using the latter, a more rigid and ribbed structure is obtained.

Foam rubber allows you to achieve softer and smoother surface drops. He possesses the best properties soundproofing than batting and synthetic winterizer, and isolon boasts the most outstanding thermal insulation.

Isolon is a new lining material made of polyethylene, more expensive, but also more perfect. It does not let in cold air and absorbs noise, being an environmentally friendly material.

Nails

Upholstery of doors with dermantine is carried out using special nails with wide hats. Sheathing nails can be either metal or leather (leatherette). Steel nails come in silver and gold.

Leather nails are made by hand, so their cost may be slightly higher than usual. In addition, there are special decorative nails that serve as door decoration.

To give the door leaf a beautiful and modern look, it is not at all necessary to spend huge sums on paying for hauling masters. Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine is easy and simple, you only need the right preparation of the door for hauling and tools with materials.

Preparing the door for reupholstering

How to determine the dimensions of the material required for upholstery of doors with dermantine, given the dimensions of the door leaf?

The leatherette should be equal to the area of ​​the door plus 15 cm on each side.

For rollers, one cut 14-15 cm wide and equal to the height of the door and two cuts cut along the width of the door leaf are required. The number of rollers is increased if the door opens outwards (all four sides are upholstered). Foam rubber or isolon is cut out the size of a door leaf, the thickness of the insulation should be no more than 2 cm.

Let's count the number of nails. It depends on the pattern and the distance between the nails. For a standard door, you may need somewhere around 50-60 pieces, excluding the pattern.

Tools for work: hammer, stapler, knife, pliers, scissors, nails. For metal doors, upholstery is carried out without nails, on an adhesive basis. Glue will need at least 100 ml.

door technology

We free the door from everything superfluous: from handles, hinges, old upholstery, etc. At the first stage, they will only interfere. The methods of fastening the leatherette to the door leaf differ depending on the material of the door.

Wood

We make rollers: right on the door we fix strips of leatherette face down with a stapler. We lay the tubes of insulation and tuck, closing the foam rubber. We clog with a stapler or nails. At the bottom of the door leaf, the material must be hammered so that the distance between the roller and the floor is 1-2 cm, otherwise the roller will simply rub off at the points of contact with the floor.

We strengthen the lining: we fix the foam rubber with a stapler starting from the middle of the door leaf (so the likelihood that the material will warp will be reduced to zero). We fix the lining so that the distance to the edge of the door is 1-2 cm. We fix the batting on the foam rubber layer (it protects the foam rubber from damage).

We fasten the dermantin: first, we turn it 6-8 cm from above and fix it with nails, making sure that there are no folds and creases. Then, straightening, we stretch on the sides and hammer with nails around the perimeter of the door. Properly stretched material does not wrinkle or form folds. The distance between the nails is a maximum of 10 cm, a minimum of 5 cm.

Metal

The door is removed and placed on a flat base, for example, on four stools. Lubricate with glue around the perimeter of the canvas and in the center, fix the insulation. Press the foam rubber to the surface and leave to dry a little.

Then the main cut of the leather substitute is glued starting from the top, just like with a wooden structure, moving to the sides and ending at the bottom.

Source: http://o-dveryah.ru/remont/obivka-dermantinom/

Sheathe the door with dermantine

If you want to update the entrance to your house without significant costs, there is a great way out of the situation - do-it-yourself upholstery of the door with dermantine.

To do this work is actually very simple, but you must first clarify all the nuances. Depending on the material from which the door leaf is made and the direction in which the door opens, there are certain differences in the principle of fastening the new upholstery.

Leatherette sheathing is a great way to update the door

Preparatory work

Among all the things that can sheathe an old wooden or metal door, dermantin is certainly the best option, it is quite affordable, looks good and is easy to work with.

First of all, you need to purchase all the necessary materials:

  • dermantin (should be 10 cm more than the door leaf on each side);
  • lining material;
  • furniture nails;
  • thin decorative cord;
  • glue;
  • furniture stapler.

It is better to remove the door leaf from the hinges, so it will be easier to work. Then remove all fittings, remove the old coating and clean the door of dust and grease.

In order to sheathe the door with dermantine as correctly as possible, it is necessary to pay attention to the direction in which it opens, this is necessary in order to use the number of rollers required in each case, if outside - you need four pieces for each side, inside - three are enough. These rollers will contribute to better insulation of the opening.

The upholstery of the front door carries a high mechanical load - this must be taken into account when choosing leatherette

For each roller, you will need a strip of leatherette 10-15 cm wide and a piece of lining, for example, a synthetic winterizer. Fasten one edge of the strip along one of the sides of the door face down, then roll up the padding polyester and wrap it with the second end of the dermantine. The work can be done with a stapler, nails or glue in the case of a metal sheet.

Attaching the backing material

Before sheathing the front door with dermantine, you should take care of its heat and sound insulation.

If you use foam rubber, the effect will be minimal, it is better to purchase a more modern material - isolon, it is quite dense and copes well with these tasks. The lining should completely cover the door leaf; on the side of the hinges, when opening it externally, it is necessary to leave a small indent.

Foam rubber is most often used as a lining material.

If you are working with a wooden door, the lining is fixed with a furniture stapler, placing staples every 15-20 cm along the perimeter of the canvas. If it is required to sheathe a metal door, the canvas is covered with a layer of glue, a heater is laid on top and gently pressed.

Working with dermantine

Now let's figure out how to wrap a metal door directly with dermantine. To neatly draw the edges, it is necessary to tuck the dermantine and, with the help of staples, fix its edge from the inside, then we glue the hem, the edge of the material with glue and press it. You need to move gradually in one direction.

The upholstery of the door is made using the simplest tools.

It is much easier to upholster a wooden door with dermantine with your own hands - we tuck the edges of the material and nail it with furniture studs with a wide hat in increments of 10-15 cm.

When doing this work, it is necessary to ensure that the places of fastening of the insulating rollers do not look out from under the bent edge of the leatherette, in addition, it is necessary to step back a few millimeters from the edge so that the new upholstery does not interfere with the free movement of the canvas.

Final design

The last step is the installation of accessories. In the new upholstery, it is necessary to make cuts of the hole slightly smaller than the size of the holes in the canvas, this is very simple, since they are well felt through the leatherette and the substrate.

Replace the handle and lock peephole, loops. Then you can proceed with the installation of the canvas in the opening, put it on the hinges and you can enjoy the work done.

In order to make the final result look a little more interesting, you can not only sheathe the front door from the inside, but add a few curly elements to its surface. To do this, you can use the remaining furniture nails.

Carefully mark the places for their installation on the surface of the dermantine, after you hammer in the nails, you can tuck a decorative lace under them. Leatherette and soft lining will change: the contours will be pressed through and a peculiar pattern will appear on the surface of the door. Usually rhombuses are made in this way, but other schemes can be used.

The easiest way to work with a wooden door, but with a sufficiently thick and dense layer of the substrate, you can make such a decor on an iron door. To do this, you need to fasten the nails or buttons with a strong thread on the reverse side before sheathing the fabric, connecting the foam rubber and dermantin.

Do-it-yourself door sheathing with dermantine is quite simple and interesting, besides, it allows you not only to save on buying a new door, but also gives you a unique opportunity to create your own author's version of the finish. When done correctly, it will look no worse than the industrial version.

Source: http://dvervdome.ru/remont/obivka-dveri-dermantinom.html

Features of door upholstery with MDF panels and dermantine step by step

Overhaul of a worn out metal door is possible in several finishes. In this case, door upholstery is most often chosen, especially if we are talking about economy class models.

Many owners decide to sheathe the iron door on their own. An additional decorative layer will also become a good sound insulation. How the repair will be made depends primarily on the material of the canvas and the exposure of the structure to the environment.

Finishing the front door using MDF

The most common type of finishing of entrance doors is "tuning" with MDF panels. Such material is made of wood fiber and is divided into:

  • Painted MDF. It is better not to use it for finishing metal entrance doors, since such canvases do not have high strength properties. With MDF panels of this type, it is better to finish from the inside.
  • Laminated panels. Sufficiently durable and resistant to moisture cloth. Smooth surface completely imitates natural wood. It has moderate strength properties, and is resistant to moisture. Such panels can also sheathe the opening.
  • Veneered MDF. Such upholstery for metal doors is the highest quality and durable option. The most commonly used veneer is oak or birch. In order not to increase the cost of the canvas, panels of expensive woods are rarely used: beech, mahogany or ash.

When repairing an MDF door with panels, it is necessary to prepare not only the main material, but also a number of additional ones, including for cleaning and removing grease from the metal surface.

If you plan to sheathe the opening, then you need to prepare wooden lintels to which MDF strips will be attached.

Of the tools, the following must be prepared in advance: a hammer, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws for attaching the canvas.

Installation work

Before starting the installation, you must be prepared for the fact that after the door trim is replaced, it will become wider. You will need to replace the lock, ties and handles. You may need to adjust the opening a little.

The installation process of MDF panels is divided into several main stages:

  • Preliminary surface preparation. Before fixing MDF, a complete cleaning and degreasing is carried out. To improve the quality of adhesion of the web and panels, painting and pasting with a vinyl film is recommended.
  • When the preparation process is over, the doors are upholstered with panels. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws in holes with an interval of 10-12 centimeters. So that the caps of the self-tapping screws do not stand out on the surface, a special sweat is performed.
  • First, the inner lining is fastened to the screws, and the outer lining is already attached above it. If the doors are opened inside the housing, then the fastening of the panels is carried out in the reverse order.
  • The repair with MDF panels is completed by the installation of door fittings. These are locks, handles and more.

When the installation is completed, it remains only to check the performance of the doors and all structural elements.

Having finished with the door with panels, you can sheathe the opening, both from the inside and outside of the room, if the quality of the material allows it.

Features of upholstery with dermantin and the choice of material

  • A material such as dermantin is resistant to any temperature changes.
  • With the ability to breathe, the material has the ability to repel moisture.
  • Resistance to tearing and damage allows dermantine upholstery to serve for a long time.
  • Ease of care. After a certain period, only light treatment with special impregnation is required. Any contamination can be easily removed with soap suds, ammonia or ordinary.
  • Relatively low cost.
  • Self-constriction with dermantine does not require additional hands.
  • This is an environmentally friendly material.
  • Excellent indicators of sound and thermal insulation.

When buying leatherette for door upholstery, you should pay attention to the thickness of the fabric that will serve as the basis, as well as the quality top coat. Preference should be given durable material which is slightly springy when stretched.

High-quality dermantin will not have stains from paint, and when held over it with a fingernail, it will not leave marks. You do not need to buy material with a pungent odor, as it does not weather well, and will be felt in the room for a long time.

Buying dermantin costs 15-20 cm more than the door leaf.

Padding with dermantine

The easiest way to haul dermantin will be on the removed doors. The door fittings, the old coating are also removed, and all dirt and dust is cleaned.

Before starting the upholstery of doors with dermantin, sound and heat insulation is carried out. Previously, foam rubber was used, but today it is best to purchase isolon for such purposes, which is denser and better copes with the task. A layer of isolon should cover the canvas of the entrance doors, and a small indent is left on the side of the hinges.

The insulation is glued to the metal door with a special glue, which is applied in a thin layer around the perimeter of the canvas.

You can enhance sound insulation by creating rollers along the edging. To create them, you will need a piece of lining and a strip of leatherette 10-15 cm long. The roller is glued to the canvas.

The next step will be the hauling of the doors with dermantin. For a neat design of the edges, the dermantine is tucked up and, using staples, is fixed from the inside. The bend is smeared with glue and pressed. All actions are performed strictly in one direction.

When the hauling is completed, the fittings are installed. The holes in the upholstery are made a little smaller than in the canvas. Handles and locks are installed. It remains only to install the doors on the hinges and you can enjoy the work.

To make the result more interesting, you can add several curly elements. For such purposes, the remaining door nails. According to the dermantin, the places for their installation are outlined, and then the nails are hammered. Under them, you can tuck a decorative cord, which will make the door more interesting. In this way, you can make rhombuses and other patterns.

The door opening with such a skin is adjusted to general interior premises.

Source: https://golddveri.ru/vxodnye-dveri/obivka-dverej.html

How to sheathe a door with dermantine

Entrance doors are, of course, first of all, protection from unexpected guests, as well as from the penetration of cold air into the room, extraneous sounds, and so on. However, its functionality does not end there.

The door leaf is also, one might say, a business card or face of a house or apartment. After all, when visiting someone, the first thing we see is, of course, the front door. That is why the appearance of the door leaf is a rather important aspect.

The most popular and cost-effective way to improve the appearance given element at home, its sheathing is considered to be materials intended for these purposes. Probably the most used of them is dermantin. How to sheathe a door with dermantin with your own hands will be discussed in this publication.

Advantages of dermantin

This sheathing material has a number of advantages compared to other similar materials:

  • High quality at low cost. Modern views of this sheathing material practically do not differ from natural types of skin. However, it is many times cheaper than genuine leather. Therefore, upholstery of the door with dermantine is also economically beneficial;
  • This upholstery does not shrink. Its dimensions do not change under the influence of ambient temperatures, and it is not afraid of exposure to moisture, while not losing its qualities;
  • It is an excellent heat and sound insulator. The canvas, sheathed with leatherette, retain even more heat and prevent the penetration of extraneous sounds into the room. Therefore, door insulation with dermantin is often used along with sheathing;
  • Easy care. To maintain a decent appearance of the door leaf sheathed with this material, it is enough to wipe the surface of the sheathing from time to time with a damp cloth, it is possible to use degreasing detergents;
  • Excellent decorative properties. Due to the variety of textures and color solutions, covering the front doors with leatherette can give it a completely different, modern and stylish look.

How to choose material

When choosing the material that will be used for thermal insulation and upholstery of the front door with leatherette, you should pay special attention to its base, as well as to the quality of its coating. Most preferred is a dense, slightly springy material when stretched.

The absence of stains from paint indicates the high quality of this material. Good and high quality leatherette is scratch resistant.

When choosing the material that will be used for thermal insulation and upholstery of the front door with leatherette, you should pay special attention to its base, as well as to the quality of its coating.

To check its quality, it is enough to run a fingernail over its surface - on quality material no trace should be left. And finally, about one more important nuance when choosing high-quality leatherette: pay attention to the smell of this material.

Cheap and low-quality, it tends to exude a specific "ambre" with chemical undertones. This can be a very serious problem, especially if the door trim is on the inside.

Required Tools

Before sheathing the doors with dermantin, it is necessary to prepare the necessary tools. This list is quite short:

  • Nails with wide (better decorated) hats;
  • Sandpaper. Preferably fine-grained;
  • A hammer;
  • Scissors or sharpened penknife;
  • A screwdriver and a Phillips screwdriver (needed to dismantle existing fittings);
  • Pliers and pliers. In case, when cleaning the door leaf, you have to remove old nails;
  • Construction stapler.

Preparing for sheathing

In order for the upholstery to lie on the door leaf evenly, beautifully, without distortions, the latter must be prepared for the sheathing process. Consider how to sheathe the door step by step:

Having removed the canvas from the hinges, we dismantle all the fittings on it (latches, locks, handles, viewing eye, and so on).

  1. We release it from the old skin, if any.
  2. If there are any significant irregularities on the canvas, for example, the remnants of old paint, then, before sheathing the door with dermantine with our own hands, we clean it all with fine-grained sandpaper.

After all the preparatory operations done, it is possible, as an additional protection for the door leaf, to degrease its surface with any degreasing agent and cover it with some kind of antiseptic. After that, the canvas should dry a little.

Sheathing process

If it is planned to lay insulation and lining materials, they should be prepared and marked out in advance. Then begins, in fact, do-it-yourself upholstery of doors with dermantin.

  1. We measure the height and width of the door leaf.
  2. We mark and cut the leatherette according to the measurements obtained, not forgetting to make 10-15 cm allowances for each side.
  3. On a pre-prepared door leaf, we evenly spread the marked and cut out sheathing material.
  4. On one of the edges of the canvas, we tuck it in and fasten it on the other side of the door with staplers. It will not work to sheathe an iron door with such brackets, therefore such canvases are sheathed using special self-tapping screws.
  5. We smooth the upholstery by pulling it over the surface of the door leaf, starting from the fixed edge to the opposite end. After that, we perform step 4 on all other ends. As a result, we get a surface completely covered with dermantin.
  6. The final step of the sheathing is the final fixing of the leatherette sheathing with curly nails with wide hats.

At the final step of the sheathing, when the finishing is almost completed, there is an opportunity to give free rein to your own imagination. To decorate a sheathed door with dermantine with your own hands, you can use a variety of decorative corners, slats, curly elements, and so on.

Everything is limited only by the imagination and financial capabilities of the owner. If desired, sheathing the door with your own hands with dermantine and decorating it, you can get your own exclusive design of the "gate" of your house.

Source: https://uteplix.com/obyekty/dver/kak-obshit-dveri-dermantinom.html

How to sheathe a door made of wood, metal - video

The easiest and most popular way to give the door an attractive appearance is to upholster or sheathe it with some material. This can be done both from the premises and from the outside, you just have to use different materials and different technologies. But in any case, the process is called "door upholstery." About all the subtleties and nuances - below.

How can you beat the door

There are two types of door upholstery - soft and hard. Soft is made of two materials - leatherette (leatherette) and vinyl leather. Leatherette is a woven cotton base coated with a film of nitrocellulose. This material was popular in the 40-60s of the last century, as it was practical and inexpensive.

A little later, vinyl artificial leather appeared. This material is made on different bases - woven and non-woven, stretching and not. Accordingly, artificial leather has different properties. A layer of polyvinyl chloride (PVC or PVC) is applied to the base. It is more durable, chemically neutral.

It has only one significant drawback - it reacts poorly to ultraviolet rays - it loses elasticity, changes color, and may crack. Therefore, the upholstery of doors that go directly to the street is undesirable with vinyl leather.

Leatherette door upholstery: several options

Now about a little confusion in terminology. Dermantine in its pure form, as it was in the last century, has not been produced for quite a long time. Instead, there are different types of vinyl faux leather.

There are also materials coated with other polymers, but not so many. Here they are, according to old memory, and are called dermantin or leatherette (although it is correct, by the way, to say “dermatin” without “n”).

Despite the fact that the material is essentially the same, it has different characteristics and appearance. There are elastic types that stretch well, there are hard ones that are difficult to stretch. In addition, modern artificial leather has many colors and shades, it can have a different surface structure:

  • smooth - shiny and matte, there is even a metallic effect;
  • porous;
  • structured, imitating different types skin (snake, crocodile, etc.).
  • under crocodile skin

So the choice of soft upholstery materials for the door is extensive. Apparently, this is the determining factor in the popularity of this type of door upholstery.

There are more hard upholstery materials for doors, although they are used less often:

  • MDF panels with a thickness of 8 mm to 18 mm;
  • natural wood - fragments, array;
  • veneer;
  • laminate;
  • plastic;
  • postforming.

From this list, most often the doors are trimmed with MDF overlays / panels. Such upholstery is especially popular for decorating metal doors, including home-made ones. The panels are made according to the dimensions of a particular door leaf, after which they are installed on glue or mounting foam into fixed starting bars. In this case, it makes sense to make slopes from MDF.

From the catalog - options for MDF overlays, and all this is still in different colors ...

In practice, the door trim is also covered with other materials - laminate, plastic, postforming. Around the perimeter of the door are installed starting profiles, into which trimmed "to size" trim fragments are inserted. Everything is simple, if you have basic skills in working with a drill, saw and hammer, you can do it yourself in a few hours.

Door upholstery with dermantine

The most popular way to trim a door is with artificial leather. Such a department allows, simultaneously with improving the appearance, to increase the indicators of heat and sound insulation. But this type of door upholstery also has disadvantages - this is the most difficult technological process, requiring at least a general idea of ​​​​the procedure.

Upholstery methods

We will talk about the technology of upholstery of doors with dermantine. You can attach it in two ways: with a roller around the perimeter of the door leaf and without it. Depending on this, the order of actions changes (more on that later).

For banners, you can use the same material that upholstered the doors. It is cut into strips 2.5-3 cm wide, attached to the upper nails, and then pulled and fixed by the next nails, a pattern is formed.

To secure the strip, it can be wrapped around a nail that is not completely driven in, which is then hammered. But this option is suitable if the decorative nails have large hats.

If the hats are small, the strips are nailed.

Also, a pattern can be formed using a thin metal flexible cable, but it is more difficult to fix it - it bends worse.

How and how to attach leatherette to the door leaf

If upholstery of a wooden door is necessary, there are usually no questions - they are fastened with staples from a stapler, then they are nailed along the contour with decorative nails. Only here there are nuances: the staples should be with a wide back (at least 1 mm), and the nails should be wallpaper, with a wide hat. Fastener installation step - from 2.5 to 7 cm, as desired.

More questions arise when it is necessary to cover an iron door with leatherette. There is only one way out - to put on glue. Glue is usually used "Moment", but you can use any other universal glue that can be used to glue both metal and leatherette.

They lubricate the flashing from the inside (a bar that goes along the perimeter of the door and closes the junction of the canvas with the door frame). When fixing vinyl artificial leather, it is cut out with a margin of 15 cm, just for the hem from both sides to the wrong side.

Materials for heat and noise insulation

Most often, foam rubber is used to insulate the door. It is inexpensive, if desired, allows you to form a three-dimensional convex pattern. The most common case is two layers of foam rubber 1 cm each.

This option is not the best - foam rubber has almost no effect on the soundproof properties of the door, and this is sometimes very important.

In addition, after 3-4 years, it loses its elasticity, begins to stick together, you have to re-upholster the door, although the appearance of the leatherette is still quite decent.

It is used for heat and sound insulation of cars. Sold in small sheets, the back side is coated with an adhesive, protected by a plastic film. So there will be no problems with installation. Of the minuses - the price and the rather large weight of the material.

To avoid problems, it is worth replacing the loops with more powerful ones.

There are two other materials used in the automotive industry with similar properties. These are "Splen" and "Vibrofilter". All of them are made on an adhesive basis, can be used to improve the characteristics of the door.

How to beat a wooden door

It is more convenient to work on the removed door, but if this is a problem, you can upholster it right on the spot. First you need to remove all fittings from the door leaf - locks, latches, door peephole.

If there is old upholstery, it is carefully removed. If a part of the door needs repair, the damaged fragments are removed and replaced with cut-to-size wooden ones.

Slots can be covered with putty or foamed with mounting foam with a low coefficient of expansion.

With their help, then we will break through the foam rubber and upholstery in the right places (just press with your fingers, all layers will push through). We will pull out ordinary nails, install decorative ones in their place, and with the help of tape we will form a pattern.

The procedure is simple.

with roller

To make the end of the door look no worse than the rest of the plane, we start with it. If you are not going to finish one of the sides, skip this step, just paint the end with paint to match the finish on one or the other side.

If we upholster the doors on both sides, we cut out a strip of material about 10 cm wide. More precisely, look at your door, since the thickness of the canvas is different. The strip should cover the end and go to one and the other side by 3-4 cm.

Lay the strip, fasten along the edge with staples from a stapler (faster and easier) or nails with a large flat head.

To form a roller, a strip of material is also needed. Width - 10-15 cm depending on how wide you want the roller. Next, there are two options:

  • Immediately form a roller. To do this, a tourniquet of foam rubber or batting is laid in the middle of the strip, crimped in the middle. In this form, it is fixed around the perimeter of the door. After, from above, foam rubber and material are laid. To form a neat edge, the material is tucked inward.
  • The roller is formed immediately, in ready-made attached around the perimeter of the canvas
  • The roller is formed later, after the vinyl is laid on the canvas. Here the technology is different - the strip is attached around the perimeter, face down. Then foam rubber and upholstery are attached. The edges are not tucked, just cut to size. After the end, the strip wraps on front side(you can put a strip of foam rubber in it), bend it and fasten it with wallpaper nails.
  • The strip for the roller is fixed in advance, it itself is formed after the upholstery is fixed

The difference between these two methods is only in appearance: in the first case, the nails are nailed along the edge of the upholstery, in the second - along the edge of the cushion. Choose whichever you like best. For example, it seems to me that the first option (on the right) looks better - more neat. But this is just a personal opinion.

What is this roller for? In order to cover possible gaps between the canvas and the jamb. Thus, we avoid the appearance of drafts and reduce heat loss.

But you can make a roller only if the doors are upholstered from the opening side (the doors open into the apartment, so we upholster them from the inside). If, on the other hand, this focus does not pass, it will not close.

Then you have to do without a roller.

without roller

In this case, everything is simple: the canvas is evenly tucked up, fixed with nails or staples - as it suits you best.

door upholstery process

To reduce the noise level, the doors are upholstered with one layer of sound insulation and one layer of foam rubber. The option with preliminary production of the roller is chosen. First, they removed the old fittings, embedded new castle. The lining and handle were removed, the internal parts remained in place. Let's move on to the door trim.

We immediately form a roller - we put narrow foam rubber in a strip of dermantine, fasten it along the perimeter of the door. It is more convenient to do this with staples from a stapler.

The next step is to fix the soundproofing. It is on an adhesive basis, so there are no problems - they cut it to size, carefully removing the film and glued it. When gluing, we try to squeeze out all the air, for this we tear off the film gradually, ironing the material from edge to edge.

We glue soundproofing

We lay and fix the foam rubber

The foam rubber is cut out with a small margin, after installation, the excess is cut off.

We tuck the upper edge by 2-3 cm, we begin to fasten from the upper left corner. There we hammer in the first nail, then we straighten the material and nail the second one at the top right. Then, in increments of 3-4 cm, we nail the upholstery from one edge to the other with finishing nails.

We fasten from the side of the loops, tucking the edge inward. Straighten evenly so that there are no creases at the top.

We nail from the side of the loops

Install locks and hardware

How to upholster metal doors

The front part of metal doors is rarely upholstered - it already has a very attractive appearance. The inner part suffers more often. That's what we'll talk about.

On the iron door inside there is a frame. In some models it is metal, in others it is wooden. Thermal insulation material is laid between the slats of the frame. It can be foam or boards. mineral wool. They are attached to mounting foam, which has a very small coefficient of expansion (mandatory!). From above, everything is closed with a sheet of plywood or OSB.

This is standard version. If the planks are wooden, everything is fine, there are no problems - the doors will not freeze through. But if the frame inside the door is metal, in good frosts everything will freeze through - through cold bridges, which are metal ribs.

The remaining processes for upholstery of a metal door are very similar to those described above. All the difference is in the method of fixation: the upholstery is glued to a suitable high-quality glue. The excess is immediately cut off at the junction using a sharp wallpaper knife.

This is where the classic mistake was made - there is no layer that cuts off the bridges of cold. Everything else is shown well.

How to sheathe a door - choose the material and do the work yourself

Sooner or later there comes a moment when the front door loses its presentable appearance during operation. Of course, you can replace it with a new one, but if the structure itself is still strong and reliable, it is better to get by with cosmetic repairs, especially since covering the door with a finishing material will cost much less.

If you follow the technology, it will not be difficult to sheathe the doors yourself. Consider the features of finishing wooden and metal doors, as well as the nuances of choosing materials for them.

Choosing a material

The range of finishing materials for doors is large and they all have their pros and cons. In order not to get confused and choose the right one, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of the most popular of them.

Vinyl leather

This material is one of the varieties of artificial leather. It is a film applied on top of a fibrous web. The basis for vinyl artificial leather can be paper, knitwear or other fabric, which is usually impregnated with special polymer compounds to increase strength.

The material can have different colors and textures, in addition, it has an affordable price and is practical to use. Therefore, vinyl leather sheathing is a good replacement for natural, very expensive material.

clapboard

Lining - these are slats made of wood, MDF or plastic, equipped with special grooves that make it easy to assemble them into a single canvas. It is suitable for finishing both wooden and metal structures, however, it is much more difficult to mount it on the latter.

For the outer part of the door, it is preferable to use a material resistant to external influences, for example, larch.

But keep in mind that such panels can fade in the sun, so door upholstery with plastic clapboard will be unprofitable if they are often exposed to direct sun rays.

Faux leather

Leatherette is an artificial material that mimics the structure of natural leather. In addition to its attractive appearance, it has other advantages:

  • strength;
  • profitability;
  • simple care.

The disadvantage is the sensitivity to temperature extremes and high humidity, which leads to cracking and thus reduces the life of the coating.

Leatherette

The name of this material comes from the Greek word "derma", which means skin. In construction terminology, dermatin is usually called leather imitation. Surely many have heard of him. But why is this material so popular?

The prevalence of leatherette for various finishing works is explained by its positive qualities, such as:

  • Affordable price. Although you need to understand that Leatherette is a popular material for sheathing, that too cheap material will most likely not be of high quality, so it is better to choose trusted manufacturers, even if the cost of their products is slightly higher.
  • Presentable appearance and variety of shades.
  • High strength and wear resistance.
  • Noise isolation properties.
  • Preservation of heat in the house.
  • Easy Care(material is well cleaned and is not afraid of moisture).

Also, leatherette is easy to process and stack, which allows you to work even without special skills. An additional plus of this coating is vapor permeability, which means that the door under the skin will be able to "breathe", which means that the wood under it will not become damp and moldy.

Leather

The door, upholstered in genuine leather, looks luxurious and emphasizes the viability of the owners, which is appreciated in some circles of society. In favor of the leather coating is also evidenced by:

But the price of such upholstery will be several times higher than that of various substitutes. Another point to consider is the need careful care behind the skin using special products to maintain its elasticity.

PVC film

Polyvinyl chloride film, which usually has a self-adhesive backing, is very practical and inexpensive material. The top layer of this coating can imitate various textures: stone, wood, velor, metal, etc. Such a film is sold in rolls and is a good way to update the surface of a metal or plastic door. Its main advantages:

  • undemanding to care;
  • small price;
  • simple installation;
  • moisture resistance;
  • no damage during installation on the glued surface.

True, there are several disadvantages - the inability to hide serious defects in the door leaf and a relatively short service life.

The listed materials are the most commonly used for upholstery and among them there is sure to be a solution suitable for your home.

Of course, the final choice depends on your preferences, financial capabilities, the condition of the door and the material from which it is made.

Given that correct installation coatings are no less important than the right material, below we will consider several ways of sheathing metal and wooden doors using the example of lining and leatherette.

Leather upholstery

So, how to sheathe the door with leatherette with your own hands? The process has some differences for wooden and metal structures, however, the preparation stage and the necessary tools in both cases are almost identical.

Upholstery preparation

To independently carry out the installation of the coating, you will need the following tools:

  • sharp stationery knife and large scissors;
  • industrial stapler;
  • a hammer;
  • pliers;
  • screwdriver;
  • brush.

Before starting work, you will need to dismantle all fittings from the door (peephole, handles, lock). Then the structure is removed from the hinges and inspected for any defects, if any, they must be eliminated.

Next, the leatherette should be cut to the size of the door, making an allowance of 10-15 cm on all sides. In addition, you can not do without cushioning material, which will give the upholstery the desired volume. If the door is not located inside the dressing room, but goes outside, then it is advisable to take care of its insulation. This function can be performed by the following materials:

  • isolon tape - has a long service life (about 70 years), is effective, but quite expensive;
  • foam rubber - can last about 15 years and has average heat retention;
  • batting - the service life is 30 years, it has good performance, but somewhat makes the door structure heavier.

Wooden door upholstery

The upholstery process begins with laying a heater cut to the size of the structure on the prepared door leaf. The material must be fixed with a construction stapler or nails; before that, it is worth lubricating the surface of the door with glue for a stronger fixation.

The upholstery fabric is laid in such a way that the overlap on all sides is the same. Then the edges are folded inward, monitoring the uniformity of the fold of the fabric and its tension.

After the fabric is securely fastened, you can give the coating a pattern using decorative tape and upholstery nails. Ready-made patterns of the pattern are shown below, but you can also invent something new, focusing on your taste and imagination.

Upholstery of a metal door

The upholstery of a metal door is made a little differently, but this process is even simpler than in the case of a tree. After all, you don’t have to nail leatherette to the metal, and it is this part of the work that is the most time-consuming.

After preparing the canvas, which is identical to that described above, the door is removed from the hinges and placed in a horizontal position.

The insulation is attached to the metal with glue, trying to lay it correctly the first time in order to avoid further displacements.

Then, leatherette itself (part of the material with an overlap) is attached to the ends of the door, smeared with glue. It is better to start from the top, then fix the material from the side of the hinges and the lock, and complete the installation with the bottom end. In this case, it is important to avoid the occurrence of folds and distortions.

After the glue dries, use a sharp clerical knife to remove excess material and install the fittings back.

This completes the work, and your front door not only looks updated, but also provides additional heat retention in the house.

Clapboard door lining

Another way to inexpensively and tastefully update the door structure is to make doors from lining with your own hands.

Where to start? For wooden panels, the following advice is relevant: if the finishing material you have stored outside the house, but will be used for interior cladding, then a few hours before the start of work, it is worth bringing it inside the room in which the decoration is planned. This will allow the wood to adapt to the humidity and temperature.

Wooden door

For sheathing a wooden door, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • panels of the selected material;
  • measuring instruments (tape measure, level);
  • pencil;
  • suitable cutting tool;
  • screwdriver;
  • planer and sandpaper;
  • screws or nails;
  • varnish and brushes.

Preparatory work is similar to that performed when sheathing leatherette. The door leaf will also need to be dismantled, cleaned and removed fittings. Then you need to decide on the direction of the skin - it will be horizontal or vertical.

The lining begins to be mounted from the lower edge of the door, checking the accuracy of its location with a level. It is better to fasten the material with special finishing nails, which will stand out less against the background of the coating, but self-tapping screws can also be used.

During installation, the panels are fixed closely, inserting each subsequent one into the connector of the previous one, and the sides are closed with special corners. After the completion of the main work, the lining can be varnished. Then, after waiting for it to dry completely, fittings are installed on the door, and the structure itself is returned to its place.

Metal door with clapboard trim

Metal doors sheathed with clapboard, in view of the strength of the metal, will be a little more difficult to make. To fix the panels, you will have to build a wooden frame attached to the door structure, and then mount the finishing material on it.

To make a frame you need:

  • bars or slats made of wood;
  • drill and screwdriver;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • saw;
  • pencil and tape measure.

The slats need to be adjusted to the dimensions of the door (length and width). Then drill holes in them for the diameter of the self-tapping screws, attach the components of the frame to the surface of the door and through these holes put marks on the metal. At designated locations metal structure also needs to be drilled.

Further, the frame elements are attached to the door leaf with self-tapping screws. The resulting design can perform another function - to serve as the basis for laying insulation. If you want to reduce heat loss, the selected heat-insulating material is placed between the frame rails.

The next stage of work is finishing. The panels are mounted in the same way as described for a wooden door and using similar materials.

Panels from lining - good decision for finishing and simultaneous door insulation

Decorating a door is a fascinating and creative process, but a responsible one.

A serious approach and a little training before finishing work will allow you to turn your ideas into reality, and the result will be a reason for pride.

metal door trim

Any front door is the hallmark of your home, and all residents of the apartment would certainly want the entrance to the home, from the outside, to seem strong and beautiful.

Because it often fully characterizes the owner of the apartment. With a wooden door, everything is very simple and easy - after installing it, you will need to slightly treat the surface with stain or varnish.

Not only an angry dog, but also an iron door will help you protect your home from unfamiliar guests.

All entrance doors, most often, are purchased with a ready-made finish. But the door trim is so primitive and easy to perform, especially often seen on inexpensive types of front doors, that most buyers will immediately want to redo it in their own way.

For these purposes it is necessary to use a variety of materials, which are divided into groups according to the type of installation and methods of application.

MDF

MDF metal door sheathing is the most common and well-known way of processing the door leaf. This wood fiber material can be divided into the following types:

  1. colored.
  2. veneered.
  3. laminated.

Painted MDF - this type of material, in the case of our canvas, it is advisable not to use, because there are no properties on its painted surface high strength. It is best used for indoor work.

Laminated MDF panels are moderately moisture resistant and have a large margin of safety. The first layer of the panel is made of PVC and has an excellent decorative property: different smooth surface and a variety of textures, with imitation of natural wood.

Sheathing metal MDF doors with overlays is what is really used as upholstery for the door leaf.

Very rarely, veneer from expensive tree species is used - ash, beech or mahogany. Accordingly, the cost of canvas with MDF increases.

Laminate

Also, the sheathing of metal doors is upholstered with a laminate, which is used, as a rule, as a floor covering. It differs slightly in composition from laminated MDF, but it has a relatively large margin of safety.

As a basis for a laminate, a fibreboard with a significant density is used. It is bonded together with paper layers, and treated with melamine or acrylic resin, resulting in a material that resembles a "layer cake" in shape.

Since the laminate is not affected ultraviolet rays, oscillation temperature regime and high humidity, it is easy for them to beat not only the entrance to the housing, but also the entrance to the cottage, which is located on the street.

powder coating

Metal door trim powder coated produced in a special way, in a factory.

This coating method is the highest quality, while using a special technology for painting powder paint on the surface of the door leaf, which is applied using the electrostatic spraying method, and then the metal is baked into industrial oven at high temperature.

Spraying with a special powder is not subject to mechanical stress, has dielectric and antistatic characteristics.

A huge selection of colors will help update the look of your door and pick up any imitation - leather, granite or gold.

Coating with such paint is the most expensive type of finish. If you wish to decorate a metal sheet with forged elements, then the price will directly consist of the complexity of making such elements.

Sheathing of metal fabric clapboard

Sheathing of a metal sheet is usually sheathed with a wooden lining.

This type of boards is made from various types of wood, for this reason, the consumer will be able to choose and purchase really high-quality and relatively inexpensive finishing material.

If you sheathe a door using lining, then here you can become a real designer. Laths can be distributed at different angles, as well as decorative strips, carved, burned out, or simply painted.

You already have a question: “How to sheathe a metal door with a wooden clapboard?”. After all, a tree cannot be nailed to a metal surface.

For the manufacture of a noise-suppressing layer, it is recommended to fill the cavity inside the structure with a heater.

We have shared with you the most famous upholstery methods. There are other types, these are: vinyl, leatherette and leather.

In the 90s, the sheathing of a metal door with dermantine was very popular among the people. This type of upholstery is the most economical, but it has also proven to be the most impractical.

The most expensive finish of the door leaf is considered to be the finish of solid oak. This method is uneconomical, due to the fact that this finishing technology can only be applied in production - it is quite difficult to work with this tree at home.

How to attach cladding panels?

The solution to this issue depends entirely on the condition of the canvas itself and right choice upholstery material and method.

  • If the cladding is made of MDF or laminate, then these panels must be attached with metal glue:
  • For good adhesion of materials, it will be necessary to prime the surface of the door leaf. This is a necessary measure; without it, the connection of metal and panels may be short-lived.
  • Liquid nails can be used to attach trim parts. For durable fastening of the decorative layer, it can be fixed using metal corners.
  • The lining can also be fixed in the same way. But panels made of natural wood are much heavier in weight than a panel made of MDF, so if it is nailed, then its fixation will be much stronger.
  • In other cases, fastening with glue is much more convenient and practical, since nails can only spoil the cladding.

As you have already seen, replacing the skin is not such a difficult job that a beginner and a professional can handle.

And finally, the most important thing - slopes

If you decide to install the door yourself, or improve the appearance of the old one, then this work cannot be completed if the slopes are not plastered correctly. A slope is such a part of the wall structure that frames the door leaf around the entire perimeter.

When dismantling the door leaf, the slopes may have a defect, both cosmetic and structural. Their finishing is carried out immediately after the installation of your door, while the assembly seam is strengthened. There are several finishing options available. A mini-instruction, which indicates the methods by which the slope is finished, is given below in the article:

  • The simplest and most economical option is surface plastering. For this you will need special tool- sample.
  • A template will be needed so that the angles at the slopes are accurate and even.
  • First of all, the slope is plastered from above, and then the sides. When the work is finished, it will take time for the plaster to dry completely, and after that you can walk on its surface with sandpaper. And finally, cover it with a primer - and then paint it, or stick wallpaper.
  • If there is no desire to deal with plaster, then you can finish the slopes with sheets of plastic or use drywall.

The choice of material for them is selected based on the type of door leaf finish or the nature of the adjoining wall to it.

  • If we talk about the side of the slope that goes to the entrance, then we will need to either plaster the slope, or use drywall, and then paint it with a water-based emulsion. Plastic slopes can be used in the decoration of those parts that are located in the apartment itself or the hallway.
  • In order for the slopes to look harmonious after the installation of the door leaf, it is necessary to use the materials with which you finished it. Laminate and MDF panels, in their structure, resemble the texture of wood, in this case, you can trim the slopes using these materials, after selecting the material by color.
  • In order for the wooden slopes on your canvas to look elegant, you need to remember about the mounting seams. They will need to be sealed with foam, and cut off its excess.
  • At the very beginning, the upper slope is set. It must be fixed with self-tapping screws or glued - the caps of the self-tapping screws will need to be hidden under decorative caps. The seams at the slopes are treated with a transparent silicone sealant and then installed plastic corners or platbands.

In this article, we shared with you how easy it is to beat your own front door and let it gain a second life. Repairing metal door trim is not the worst thing to do in your apartment.

Upholstery of metal doors - a detailed analysis of the most popular options

Suppose you decide to do steel door do it yourself or want to buy it, but the upholstery of metal doors in the store leaves much to be desired. Don’t be discouraged, it’s not so difficult to sheathe a metal door yourself, and then we will tell you in detail how to sheathe the front door and the slopes to it on both sides, with all the pros and cons of the options that exist today.

The upholstery of the entrance metal door speaks of the status of the owner of the house.

How are the doors trimmed now?

First of all, remember that the sheathing of a metal door on the outside and the decorative trim on the inside are not at all the same thing. Even if visually the materials look the same, their characteristics or at least the level of processing are completely different.

After all, do not forget, we are talking about entrance doors, where the outer lining is regularly watered with rain, freezes and roasts in the sun, and from the inside, the finishing of metal doors is in the comfortable conditions of a residential building. By the way, at this address you can learn about the insulation of iron doors with your own hands.

Laminate

Finishing metal doors with laminate flooring has long ceased to be a curiosity. After all, the flooring was originally designed for quite serious loads:

Finishing an iron door with laminate flooring is a good and inexpensive option.

  • It will not be difficult to wash an iron door finished with a whitewash laminate, clean it from dirt or footprints, because this coating is subjected to even greater tests on the floor;
  • Any laminate can easily withstand the claws of pets, even a large dog is not able to scratch such a coating;
  • A big plus in terms of design is the same finish of the floor, slopes and door leaf;
  • The thickness of the planks ranges from 6 to 12 mm, the weight of the cladding is also not large, which is an additional plus when choosing;
  • The planks are connected according to the thorn-groove principle, and after splicing they form a smooth monolithic surface, in which even the seams are palpable with difficulty;
  • To fix it on the canvas, it is enough to clean and prime the steel sheet, after which you can safely glue the planks, for example, on liquid nails;
  • If the doors are not sheathed on the inside with solid steel sheet, then the laminate planks are attached to the bars of the inner crate, and in order to hide the hard-hitting cut and self-tapping screws, a plastic U-shaped profile is glued along the edge.

Finishing the door from the inside with a floor laminate for an amateur is quite realistic.

Now let's move on to the "pitfalls" there are also enough of them here. Let's start with the fact that the floor laminate, no matter how expensive and elegant, was originally created as an internal coating, which means that it is not designed for sudden changes in temperature, frost and excessive humidity.

Accordingly, they can only finish the doors from the inside. Exterior decoration is possible only in multi-storey buildings with relatively warm entrances.

If you decide to opt for a laminate, then keep in mind: this material is divided into 7 classes. If the marking starts with 2, then this material is made for apartments and private houses (21,22,23). Everything that starts with a three (31,32,33,34) is calculated for commercial organizations, offices and shopping centers.

The classification of floor laminate depends on the level of wear resistance.

When buying, you do not need to listen to the persuasions of the consultant. The fact is that visually grades 21 and 34 may not differ in any way, and if you are not going to dance on your doors or wash them with a fire hose, then take the twenty-first grade, and the thinnest strips (6 mm), the price will please you.

MDF panels

MDF panels are solid large door linings; professionals call these panels cards. Now the upholstery of a metal door with such cards occupies almost half of the market.

Finishing metal entrance doors with MDF panels is now considered the most popular.

The material itself is made from wood dust and, according to the manufacturers, does not contain any harmful additives.

Wood dust is poured into molds, pressed and fried under high pressure, as a result, natural glue lignin is released from it, which turns the pressed mass into a monolithic sheet.

Before sheathing the canvas, you need to decide which panel you want to see. Sheathing the entrance metal door can be pure MDF, laminated or veneered.

To be honest, then clean sheets MDF is not suitable for ennobling the door leaf. The top layer of the sheet is practically not protected, its appearance is rather mediocre and the maximum that can be done is to paint it with something, while you will not achieve special beauty.

The most common is laminated MDF, such cards have quite a few advantages:

  • The laminated MDF card is resistant to fading;
  • Finishing a metal door with your own hands will not be difficult for you, both external and interior decoration performed equally simply;
  • For finishing work you need a minimum of tools. If you veneer only the door leaf, without slopes, then a drill and a screwdriver are enough;
  • Washing an MDF card from stains and other troubles is as easy as a floor laminate;
  • The door lining does not require additional adjustment and refinement, the product is immediately sold with fixed dimensions according to door standards. If your canvas is not standard, then you can use several small cards or order a panel according to your size;
  • In serial factory doors, MDF panels are inserted into special grooves, so before you disassemble the old door, see if you have such grooves. The principle is simple, the side clip is removed, after which the old panel is moved to the side and pulled out, and the new one is inserted into its place.

Decor options for MDF door cards. The result of an incorrect choice of MDF cards.

In the elite sector, MDF panels covered with natural wood veneer are used to finish the entrance doors. Veneer is a thin slice of wood, so if you paste over an MDF panel with it, then it will not differ in any way from a natural board.

It turns out that for reasonable money you will make yourself elite wooden doors, for example, from oak. Of course, a veneered card is not cheap, but compared to natural array the difference will be at least 2 times.

Veneered MDF panels are practically no different from natural wood.

Most European companies produce cards covered with so-called eco veneer. If you do not go into details and brush off the advertising tinsel, then eco veneer is just high-quality plastic, which contains a certain percentage of wood.

About the same story with multi-veneer, but it can be seen with the naked eye. The drawing there is quite abstract, cubes, waves, mugs and a lot of other options, but this is natural wood, only pressed, glued and cut, here it’s already an amateur.

Leather upholstery

For many people, quilted door trim is associated with Soviet design. Indeed, if you take cheap leatherette and upholster the doors with it, then the view will not be the best, but do not rush to discard this option, with a reasonable approach, quilted upholstery can look luxurious.

Now you will not find doors trimmed with natural soft leather because it is very expensive. For sheathing, a new material called eco-leather is used, this material is a synthetic coating that visually and to the touch is no different from real leather.

In addition to a solid appearance, quilted lining has 2 tangible advantages: firstly, it is additional insulation, and secondly, serious sound insulation. For indoor cats and dogs, though, quilted upholstery is first in line for tearing.

The carriage coupler belongs to the elite finishing of the entrance doors.

The easiest way is to take eco-leather and sheathe a sheet of plywood with it, and use foam rubber as a filler. If you want to get a truly luxurious door, then there is carriage coupler, make it more difficult, but the result is worth it.

If you decide to buy soft panels for doors, then keep in mind: high-quality upholstery is made from solid canvas. If you are offered a quilted panel sewn from pieces, then know that this is a cheap low-quality product.

Powder coating

Powder coating doors can not be done at home with your own hands. This is a high-tech process, the metal is cleaned, processed and applied special paint, after which the door is “roasted” in ovens, as a result, the surface acquires a unique protection.

A fine-grained film is formed on the metal surface, which is easy to clean and reliably protects the doors from corrosion. Manufacturers claim that such lining cannot be scratched, we do not know if these assurances are true, but animal claws powder paint holds without problems.

Hammer paint is a good alternative to powder coating.

Hammer paint can be a good alternative to powder coating, you can paint doors with your own hands and at the same time the look will be no worse than that of powder coating. At "this address" you will learn how to correctly disassemble doors, how to wash metal from rust, and most importantly, how to paint the doors yourself.

clapboard

Lining for different types finishes have been used for about 100 years and despite such an advanced age, it is still in the lead. Neat wooden planks are connected using tongue and groove technology. There are quite a few advantages to lining.

  • Clapboard can be used for both exterior and interior decoration of doors, however, for exterior decoration, wood will have to be treated with complex primer and varnished for exterior work;
  • The material is 100% environmentally friendly;
  • Natural wood will never go out of fashion; with proper care, such doors will always look fresh and original;
  • The lining installation technology is quite simple and accessible to anyone. home master, we can assure you that even if you have never dealt with lining, during the day you will sheathe your front door with it;
  • The slats can be combined as you like, as a result your door will have an original pattern.

Finishing iron doors with clapboard, novice craftsmen often do not know how to fix the slats on the metal. So from the inside, the lining is hemmed to a pre-fixed wooden crate, which in turn is attached to the stiffeners and the inner frame of the doors.

The outer cladding is prepared separately, first the lining is screwed with small screws to the plywood sheet, and then this shield is attached to the metal sheet. In order to securely fasten the front panel, in metal sheet you will need to drill a dozen holes and screw it on the inside with self-tapping screws.

By the way, lining is not only wooden, now they produce many options for plastic lining. Theoretically, it is possible to sheathe doors with plastic, but not everyone likes such a lining, plus the strength of the plastic is not high.

A few words about finishing slopes

Slopes are called the part of the wall that frames the doors or windows, respectively, until the slopes are made, the door lining cannot be considered finished. In this case, experts identify 4 running options for facing slopes.

  1. Plastering is considered the most reliable and durable. Such a slope will stand for more than a dozen years, but plastering work not everyone can do it, plus it's a rather messy process;
  2. No less reliable is the sheathing of slopes with drywall. GKL sheets can be either mounted on a crate or glued to a special building mix, but after installation, drywall must be puttied;
  3. Another popular way to finish door slopes is mounting on the crate. Everything is simple, the crate is stuffed on the slope, and already on the crate you can fasten everything you see fit - plastic, MDF, GKL, plywood, lining, etc.
  4. But the most popular option now is telescopic slopes made of MDF. They are a kind of constructor. Depending on the thickness of the wall, the width of the additional plank is selected and the entire structure is installed in a couple of hours, the only problem is that telescopic slopes are much more expensive than the others.

The choice of upholstery for metal doors is a responsible matter, because it largely indicates the status of the owner. When making a decision, carefully weigh all the pros and especially the cons of the materials described above and let your door be the most beautiful in the area.

Repair is an expensive event, and everyone is looking for ways to save on something. Many try to do a number of works with their own hands and involve specialists only at those stages where professionals cannot be dispensed with. This approach is often used in the arrangement of the front door. The owner orders a metal door with an open frame without cladding for a minimum amount, and does the cladding on his own. Financial benefits and individual interior decoration are the undoubted advantages of this work.

Cladding materials

The range of facing material today is wide. You can use ready-made decorative panels, which are made specifically for plating. You can experiment with other surface finishes.

Features of the choice of material for the front door

The choice of material for finishing is based on two factors: aesthetic appearance and performance. The front door trim is different from the interior trim. The inner side is always in comfortable conditions: the humidity level does not change over a wide range, the likelihood of mechanical damage is minimal. Therefore, it can be finished with any material.

The outer finishing layer is constantly exposed to aggressive moisture, temperature changes, and mechanical damage.


Therefore, you should choose a finish depending on the aesthetics and operational qualities. The main ones are moisture resistance and mechanical strength of the surface.

Important! When choosing a material, it is necessary to understand the installation technology. They differ in different levels of labor intensity and require appropriate skills.

Panels (cards) from pressed plywood and MDF

The range of design of such overlays is huge. There are conventional models with embossed volumetric panels, there are flat panels with deep milling. Designer models use glass or mirror inserts, patina finish, 3D engraving. But when choosing a card, you should, first of all, pay attention to the type protective coating. The cheapest are embossed MDF cards coated with a regular (inner) PVC film. They are ideal for interior cladding. But they are not suitable for the outside, because protective film does not have sufficient strength, the cards will begin to swell and deteriorate. Higher quality (and more expensive) are linings coated with an outer film of increased strength or painted with polymer paint.


Important! MDF panels with outer film can be installed on exterior doors if the porch is equipped with a wide canopy. Regardless of the quality of the coating, the cards do not allow direct contact with water.

solid wood panels

This is the most expensive option. Panel tinting can be done independently and get the desired shade in accordance with the interior. The surface of the overlay can be varnished several times. A worn surface can be repainted and restored over time. You can always remove the panel and ennoble it with a new layer of varnish or glaze.


Important! Panels can be made by yourself. To do this, use moisture-resistant plywood: cut out a rectangle of the appropriate size and decorate it to your liking. They can be covered with stain, varnish, stick home-made panels.

Wooden lining

Wooden clapboard is used both internally and exterior finish doors. The lining has a lock connection, so it is easy to mount, which makes the jointing even. The surface lined with clapboard does not look the same.

Plastic panels and lining

Plastic is not afraid of moisture, but this advantage is completely offset by its low mechanical strength. Therefore, only internal surfaces can be trimmed with plastic. In addition, outwardly it looks quite unpresentable.

Laminate

Laminate is often sheathed on the front doors to the apartment. Decorative finishing indoors when using a laminate is carried out in a complex in combination with flooring. Such interiors look solid and harmonious.


Upholstery fabric, leatherette

Leatherette finishing is one of the most common methods used to decorate old surfaces. Under it, a rolled insulation with increased elasticity (for example, foam rubber) is usually laid. It not only insulates the fabric, but also provides a uniform stretch of the fabric and allows you to perform a characteristic relief embroidery.


Important! For an iron door, dermantin is rarely used. This is due to the difficulties of installation and its unaesthetic appearance.

Sheathing installation

Facing materials are attached to the canvas in two ways:

  • mounting on the frame from the inside of the surface;
  • screwing (gluing) to a flat surface.

Panel fixing

MDF panels, solid wood sheathing or homemade cards are fastened with self-tapping screws:

  • Through holes for self-tapping screws are drilled of such a diameter that the screw passes freely into it. The self-tapping screw is inserted into the hole and screwed into the lining body from the back side. As a result, the card is attracted from the surface of the door.

Important! Overlays immediately sheathe the inner and outer side. When mounting the inner card on the outer surface of the canvas, the heads of the self-tapping screws will remain visible, which must be closed. Therefore, two overlays are usually bought or made at once.


  • First, screw the inner panel, which should be smaller than the outer one.
  • Before mounting the card, the web cavity must be insulated. To do this, use foam, mineral wool or isolon.
  • After installation inner panel screw the outer one, drill holes for the keyhole, under the peephole and under the handle fasteners.

This method of mounting the cladding is the simplest.

Sheathing with lath material

The supporting element for fastening the lining, laminate and other lath material is a frame made of a wooden lath, which is attached to the stiffening ribs of the canvas from the inside. The rail is taken of the same thickness as the height of the jumpers metal frame. It is fixed with metal screws. A heater is laid in the cavity cells and a lining is installed, nailing it to the frame rails.

Important! When using lining, it is also used for sealing slopes. The opening, fully lined with clapboard, looks spectacular.

When working with wooden clapboard, thin decorative slats are used to decorate the perimeter of the door leaf and close the joints between the planks at breaks in the direction of the lines. When working with plastic and laminate, a plastic starter is used for such purposes. L-profile. It is first stuffed around the perimeter of the canvas, and then the cut strips are inserted.

This method is more laborious in all versions, since trimming the lining takes much more time than instant screwing on the lining.


The outer cladding with a lath has some features. If on the inside the skin thickness special significance does not have, then with outer side she shouldn't be doing much. Therefore, from the outside, the lining is attached directly to the surface of the door leaf. To do this, take a thin lining and screw it to the canvas with self-tapping screws. Alternatively, you can make a card. On a sheet of thin fiberboard, a distillation is mounted on glue in exactly the same way as if it were laid directly on the canvas. It is left to dry, pressed with something heavy, so that the typesetting card does not move during the drying process. After drying, it is fixed in the same way as ordinary MDF cards.

slopes

If the owner himself took up the installation and cladding, then to complete the finishing of the doorway, you will need to make slopes. There are several options for making slopes. The simplest is the use of extensions or installation on the slopes of the same material from which the door trim is made. Plastering is a dirty and time-consuming technology, and natural stone does not always blend with the surrounding interior.

Dobors go well with laminate, panels, as they are similar to them in appearance. In addition, they are easy to install, they do not require construction complex framework, and a system with telescopic adjustment of the depth of the casing will allow you to easily install it yourself.

Video: How to sew a door surface with a card:

For sheathing the inner surface of the iron door, you can use any material that the owner considers aesthetically attractive and combined with the rest of the interior. The front door can be covered with wallpaper. To do this, instead of lining, a sheet of plywood is nailed to the frame. The main thing is to form a rigid base on the frame to which the skin will be attached.

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When an exterior door becomes unpresentable or you need to improve its heat and sound insulation, it's time to start looking for pragmatic solutions. If the reliability of the design allows, then it will be enough just to sheathe the front door. How to upgrade depends on the material of manufacture of the door leaf, as well as on how the structure is exposed to external influences. weather conditions and what are the ultimate goals of such "tuning". For the entrance doors of an apartment building and the exterior doors of a private estate, almost the same finishing materials are applicable.

The most expensive type of sheathing, used mainly for metal doors. The attractiveness of facing with such material lies in the possibility of exclusive application of a milled pattern or ornamental decoration on the door leaf.

Solid wood panels, with their natural beauty and unique texture, will certainly emphasize the individuality of the home as a whole and become a real highlight that can increase the status of the owner. The maximum effect can be achieved if you order a sheathing of a metal door with an array of precious woods with additional decorations of the finished canvas with forged details and unusual fittings.

Marine plywood

Unlike ordinary plywood, the surface of ship plywood, treated with stain and opened with frost-resistant varnish, looks like an array of valuable wood. However, the commercial unavailability of this material imposes certain restrictions on its use.

The main requirements for the quality of manufacturing marine plywood are:

  • finishing with high-quality veneer;
  • double-sided grinding;
  • adhesive type.

The use of phenol-formaldehyde adhesive bases with heat and moisture resistant properties for gluing veneer sheets made marine plywood particularly attractive both for the manufacture of furniture facades and for exterior finish entrance doors.

MDF panels

A material made from pressed wood fibers impregnated with synthetic resins is superior to wood in many ways. MDF resistant:

  • to temperature fluctuations;
  • to moisture;
  • to decay.

It has high mechanical strength and is environmentally friendly. The ability to choose a design and colors, apply almost any pattern or polymer film made it the most popular and in demand for sheathing entrance doors. Panel overlays can be mounted directly on the door leaf or on pre-glued foam sheets to improve the thermal insulation of the door.

It should be borne in mind that the mass of a door sheathed with MDF will increase significantly and create an additional load on the door hinges.

When installing panels on metal surface, special attention should be paid to the quality of welding of the door leaf and its geometry, which is installed quite simply. The determining factor will be equal in size diagonal doors.

clapboard

The door leaf sheathed with clapboard looks natural, natural and aesthetically pleasing. The material is profile rails with a thickness of 6 to 20 mm with a special shape of the lock, which allows them to be assembled into a single panel. Traditionally, the starting material for the manufacture of lining is an edged board made of natural wood. In addition, on the market of finishing materials, you can buy lining made of MDF and plastic (polyvinyl chloride).

According to the type of “thorn-groove” profile produced, the material is divided into two types - eurolining and “collective farmer”. Finished surfaces, after their assembly, have minor differences in appearance.

Before sheathing the front door with a clapboard made of wood, the material must be treated with an antiseptic, and the finished front surface with fire-resistant varnish. If you need to sheathe the front door of an apartment, then pine or spruce is quite suitable as an inexpensive raw material. For outer door exposed to atmospheric influences, it is necessary to use larch lining, which is more suitable for external cladding, as it withstands significant temperature changes and high, almost one hundred percent, humidity.

Relatively budget option can be plastic lining made of PVC, which is resistant to moisture and is not subject to rotting or corrosion. However, it should be protected from direct sunlight, which, with prolonged exposure, significantly impairs the aesthetic appearance of the material.

The basis of the laminate is a pressed high-density wood board. The high-strength film applied on its surface possesses water-repellent and antistatic properties. The thickness of the laminated panels is 7-8 millimeters.

A variety of applied film coating gives a wide choice to the consumer according to color scheme and textures that imitate precious wood or stone. The laminate is quite resistant to mechanical stress, but does not tolerate excess moisture, so this material is more suitable for sheathing an apartment door.

Viniplast

This rigid sheet material has long been used as cladding and sheathing in construction. It is made from unplasticized polyvinyl chloride with various additives that determine its specific properties.

Vinyl plastic of the VD brand is considered the most suitable for sheathing the front door, that is, decorative vinyl plastic. The sheet thickness of this brand is regulated by GOST and ranges from 1.5 to 3 millimeters. The material is temperature resistant, non-toxic and normal conditions withstands quite large mechanical loads.

The most budget option for sheathing the front door. The advantages of kozhvinil are:

  • in a variety of colors and shades;
  • in embossing invoices;
  • at a low cost.

Roll material is sold by the meter and has a suitable width - within 110-150 centimeters. This is enough for a standard door.

Kozhvinil is not afraid of high humidity, it is easy to clean, but it is subject to mechanical damage and is chemically unstable. The foam rubber substrate significantly increases the thermal insulation qualities of such a cladding. In addition, flat wooden doors can be easily given a relief surface with nails with a decorative cap, which increases the aesthetics of the door leaf.

The presented materials allow you to sheathe the front door, made of both metal and wood. They help her outwardly transform, become more attractive, harmoniously fit into the overall exterior of the home, and also create additional thermal insulation and noise protection. All these functions should be performed by the front door.