Workbench: design rules, manufacturing for all kinds of carpentry and locksmith work. Universal folding workbench-table for carpentry works Collapsible workbench

The peculiarity of this unusual mini-workbench is that its worktop can be attached to any table in any convenient location. The front pressure bar of the workbench can be quickly moved from one extreme position to another using an eccentric cam with a handle.

The parallel movement of the pressure bar is carried out by two guide rods that pass through the working plate and are connected to this bar. The opposite ends of the guide rods are fitted with compression springs. The compression force of these springs secures the workpieces between the pressure bar and the working plate. The required tension of the springs is adjusted using round knurled nuts on the side.
The free ends of the guide rods are interconnected by a longitudinal rod. An eccentric cam with a handle is installed exactly opposite the middle of the longitudinal rod. By turning the cam around its axis clockwise, you can “squeeze out” the pressure bar and release the part. To clamp the part, the cam must be turned counterclockwise. The necessary clamping force is provided by the springs.
To limit the maximum value of the “push-off” stroke of the bar, two studs with wing nuts are provided on the longitudinal bar as a stop. The working stroke of the clamping bar is relatively small - it is determined by the shape and size of the eccentric cam, as well as the position of the thrust wing nuts. Nevertheless, it is quite enough to secure the workpiece. The main advantage of this mechanism is that the part can be quickly fixed and
also remove quickly.
AT working plate and the front pressure bar are drilled several parallel rows of holes. They are designed to install special clamping jaws - large and small, in a set there should be 4 pcs. of every kind. Cams allow you to attach parts of almost any size and any shape to the workbench.
To fix the workpiece on the working plate in the "longitudinal" direction, a special screw clamp is provided in the design. Its movable boss, which is moved by a handwheel lead screw, also has a hole for mounting a clamping jaw.
The mini-workbench is very convenient in work. Easily configurable for workpieces and parts different shapes. It is also easy to remove and install in any place convenient for work, and when folded, it is freely placed in a desk drawer.

Fixing the workpiece along or across the workbench is not difficult.



The clamping jaws supplied with the device are inserted into the holes drilled in parallel rows in the work plate and clamping bar.



The clamping jaws can be rotated in any direction, which makes it possible to clamp workpieces with complex shapes.



Small clamping jaws can be used to fasten a flat workpiece directly to the build plate.

The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years is one of the common mistakes development of workbenches of their own design.

The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal bed.

Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile designs of workbenches for home/amateur work different nature a lot. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Second, how to make a workbench general purpose or universal for special conditions use - in a cramped garage, under the carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for small precise work, children's.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vise on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for installing them, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” prefabricated workbench

This is wrong decision not only because wooden table top from carpentry spoils. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. The approach to designing the countertop (board, cover) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - thin or rough, see below.

work bench

In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.

The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpenter's workbench, then garage and locksmith. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:

  • Underwork (in carpentry workbenches), or bed (in metalwork), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
  • Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
  • Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
  • The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not a mandatory accessory of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a pedestal, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or tabletop. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In the locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of softwood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.

The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame, not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never sag. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the bed of a home workbench will be fully provided by coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality.

The design of the wooden frame of the workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are conducted in mirror image. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.

If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. Load bearing capacity will rise to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbenches. A box-shaped cover is placed on it under the carpentry (see below), and under the locksmith a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

Solid wood workbench, no need for welding work for its manufacture, you can do according to the scheme on the next. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, glued from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

The opposite happens: metal more accessible than wood and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench according to the scheme at the top right of a professional pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: they turn the lid under the carpentry wooden side up or adjust as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vise.

For carpentry

The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best option fastenings for a non-separable workbench - steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench is arranged is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. B. Then quality boards solid wood only needed on the shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Vice for carpentry

All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.

First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.

The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped according to the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).

Note: the nut welded on the base must be allowed to rest for at least 2 hours before the thread passes, so that the residual deformations “subside”.

Vice and carpentry for a locksmith

The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see sidebar in the figure), so that as much as possible of the dynamic loads during metal processing falls vertically on corner post. Location cross beams and intermediate uprights It is advisable to make a workbench with a stationary vise a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vise. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:

  • A collet anchor is driven into a wooden corner post under the mounting bolt, and welded into a metal one high nut or a threaded bushing (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
  • If the fastener is welded, thread with taps, as in a homemade carpenter's vice nut, see above;
  • Put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes for fixing points 2, 3 and 4 in place;
  • The vise is removed and through holes 2, 3 and 4 are drilled;
  • Put a vise on the bolts 1, 2 and 3;
  • For mounting on bolt 4, put under the cover (tabletop) a strut U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the jib, but it should rest from under the bottom against the upper frame (strap) of the bed, but not against the tabletop!
  • Attach the vise finally to the bolt 4.

Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

The locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the table top for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs fit well plastic bottles, they withstand tight landings many times.

Garage workbench

A workbench in the garage cannot be made optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time already, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench "responds" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

The scheme of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of chipboard 32 mm thick and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; it will also fit into the house for fine work (electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box


Home station wagon

At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. Fortitude working surface and its vibration absorption in this case is not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.

More about plywood

In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If the pillow board locksmith workbench is still made of plywood, then to its bottom you need to glue a frame (frame) on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.

To the rising shift

Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.

Workbenches in the country

When country house or others. light wooden the structure is still being built, there is no time for bench wisdom, at least something is needed on which simple carpentry work can be done. For such a case, hastily you can put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. At minimum flow material and extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, tk. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a summer residence, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

A folding universal workbench can become an indispensable thing when equipping a workplace in a garage or at home for working with wood or metal.

Not every desktop surface is able to withstand the loads that occur when working with metal products. This workbench is made from specially durable materials, ready for workloads, shock and increased pressure.

Folding workbench universal and regular table

Recently, transformable furniture has become increasingly popular, which is able to change its purpose with ease and speed. Folding table allows its owner to work with different materials at one table and save space in the workplace.

Moreover, if there is no need for frequent use workbench, the folding design allows you to remove it from the room and free up space.

The main difference between the universal and the ordinary carpenter's table lies in the strength of the frame which is usually metallic. It can be with mobile powerful rollers in the basis or with a folding design.

It should be chosen very carefully due to the fact that folding options can be extremely unstable, and case ones often have high price.

Characteristics of a folding workbench universal for home and workshop

The main purpose of this table is to carry out work at home or a small workshop. The tables are different its size and price. In terms of their external working qualities, all tables are almost the same and have the following characteristics:

Benefits of versatile folding workbenches

This table is a compact workplace. Such workbenches are made mainly of metal and have a worktop made of medium-density fibreboard(MDF).

Such material is resistant to moisture and steam, which makes it a practical material for making a desktop.

Manufacturers have provided on the countertop special places for installing power tools from various manufacturers, which gives the owner the opportunity to supplement his workbench:

  • circular saw;
  • grinder;
  • drill;
  • electric jigsaw;
  • drilling device.

A set of necessary tools and a home workbench will allow the master to carry out carpentry work with precision, as in production. For those who dream of making their own pieces of furniture, such a device is a must.

In small repair shops, such tables will help significantly save space and get excellent results from the repairs carried out.

In spite of small size, they strong enough and allow the processing of massive parts. Some workbenches are able to withstand a total weight of about two hundred kilograms. In addition, modern worktops allow you to securely fix the parts during their processing.

All clamps for fastening the workpieces are placed in the holes of the tabletop, which makes the work of the master extremely easy. Clamps are included in the kit, but if there is not enough of them, you can always buy them separately. metal frame, thanks to the durability allows to use the manual tool in work.

When it is completely impossible to mechanize work, you cannot do without its use. justification hand tool usually happens with small volumes of work.

By by and large folding analogues are intended for carpentry work. But if you do not exceed permissible load, then you can install a bench vise.

When it is necessary to cut or bend thick sheets of metal, it is better not to use a folding table. The main working purpose for them is everything planing, sawing or cutting parts. If a ready-made options did not fit, then you can make a table according to your own plan.

What to consider when making your own workbench

A table for plumbing or carpentry work, first of all, must be stable. Its dimensions depend on the area of ​​​​the workshop and the frequency of use.

For the surface of the workbench, it is better to choose durable wood species, such as oak, beech or hornbeam. This will allow the master to work with mechanical, hand tools and various materials.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a workbench, it is necessary to decide on the purpose of its use. All workbenches can be divided into three groups:

  1. Stationary - are large durable tables tied to one location.
  2. Mobile - small folding tables with metal frame best suited for work with small parts.
  3. Compounds that are held with bolted connections, which are easy to replace parts and allow you to easily disassemble the tool.

At self-manufacturing workbench can make a design for your height to work without slouching. Finished workbenches rarely exceed a height of eighty centimeters, which is extremely inconvenient for tall people.

In addition, you can fill the workbench yourself essential tool and do suitable places for clamping parts. Optimal length the workbench is two meters with a width of eighty centimeters. For storing hand tools and small parts You can add a workbench with several drawers.

It is better to take as a working surface solid canvas which can be made from old interior doors. When using separate boards, they should be hammered together very tightly so that there are no gaps that debris and sawdust can get into.

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