Why does the yucca wither. How easy is it to defeat yucca diseases? Why do the leaves of a false palm tree turn yellow, dry and fall off? Diseases and natural organic processes

Dogwood, except for white dogwood, blooms beautifully and develops without any human intervention.

But in order for the bush to be a real decoration of the garden, pruning should not be neglected, whether it is rejuvenating or regular, correct pruning of shrubs.

Compliance with the deadlines, time for pruning shrubs is the most important condition for their beauty and health. What needs to be considered in order to flowering shrubs brought you joy?

A gardener with extensive experience in gardening and floriculture will help us understand this most important “health program”. He has been growing shrubs professionally for a long time and his collection can be kindly envied.

Pavel Semenovich, spring is on the street, what not to miss in pruning now?

Before bud break, inspect all your shrubs for how much they have suffered after the winter. Damaged branches and their dry parts must be cut to healthy wood.

Rejuvenating pruning of shrubs will help restore youth to old shrubs, brighten them, facilitate air access to skeletal branches and reduce the risk of fungal and other diseases. Young, strong plants should not be pruned unless absolutely necessary.

I prefer to prune a little each year so as not to weaken the plant. The size of the bush should be limited in a timely manner so that later you do not have to resort to strong pruning. I cut the hedge from the first years, so that the bottom of the bushes is not exposed.

Very old plants that have lost their decorative effect, it may make sense to cut them completely to the ground. Then young shoots will go from the root or base of the bush.

I cut out thick branches or cut them with a special pruner with long handles (lopper pruner), thin ones with a regular pruner. All my secateurs have been prepared since the fall - sharpened and disinfected.

Why do you need regular pruning of shrubs?

Pruning shrubs, as a rule, stimulates flowering, maintains shape. It is important not to miss the timing of pruning - they depend on the timing of flowering.

Pruning of shrubs is carried out over a healthy kidney, located with outside branches. In some plants, flower buds are located on the growth of the current year, in others - on the growth of last year, and in many on perennial branches. The location of the flower buds determines the flowering time.

If flower buds are laid on annual or perennial branches, flowering will occur in the spring. And if they develop on young shoots current year, then in summer or closer to autumn.

Hawthorn, almonds, vesicles, cinquefoils keep the shape of the crown well. It just needs to be tweaked a little from time to time.

Thinning and regular rejuvenation is especially necessary for barberry, deutsia, viburnum, cotoneaster, lilac, mock orange, wild rose. I remove wilted inflorescences from lilacs, summer spireas, tamarix.

At lilacs, I cut the flowering panicles to the base with a call to the underlying wood, trying not to hurt the young side shoots. In faded weigela, action, shrub willows, almonds, broom, forsythia, I shorten the branches by a third or even half to the place where strong young shoots are formed.

In these multi-flowering shrubs, flower buds for flowering next year are laid only on newly grown branches and offshoots.

What shrubs need to be pruned in March?

First of all in early spring I prune those plants that bloom on the shoots of the current year. These are mainly summer-flowering shrubs - spirea, panicled hydrangea, hibiscus, caryopteris, heather, David's budley, three-lobed almond, broom. If you are late with pruning, flowering will begin at least a couple of weeks later. Pruning should be solid, for two or three buds.

For example, I greatly shorten David's budley, remove all last year's long flower branches (leaving only two buds on each), as well as weakened ones.

In order for the budlea to bloom as early as possible, I prune without delay - sometimes even in February. First of all, I get rid of the drooping side shoots and keep them more in the center of the bush. This does not allow the bush to spread in breadth.

In Bumald's spirea, in the first year I cut off damaged or very weak growths, completely - all incorrectly located branches. In subsequent years, the skeleton is being formed, I cut off half of all last year's growths on a strong outer kidney.

Garden hibiscus blooms more luxuriantly if you thoroughly prune the bush in the spring. In March, I completely remove last year's inflorescences from heathers, cut out bare branches. At Potentilla shrub every 2-3 years I spend medium thinning, slightly cut

Proper shaping pruning - always a beautiful hedge

Beginning gardeners often face the problem of poor growth and flowering. ornamental plants. One of the main reasons is the lack of regular pruning.

When to prune ornamental plants

The procedure should be carried out before the appearance of the kidneys and the start of sap flow.

• IN southern regions where climatic conditions permit, formative pruning can begin in late February.
• In the Moscow region, pruning should be completed before the end of March.
• In the northern strip of Russia, it is recommended to wait until the beginning of April.

At temperatures below 10 ° C, pruning is not recommended: the tree crumbles and the wounds do not heal well. Tools that you may need: secateurs, pruner, brush cutter, garden knife. For pruning large branches, a chainsaw or garden saw is useful.

Cutting technology

• Before starting work, you should select unnecessary branches, draw a pruning plan and carry it out in stages so as not to remove anything superfluous.

• On thick branches, a cut is made along the fibers, and on the opposite side, in the direction of the cut, a longitudinal notch is made to avoid breaking. This prevents the crease of the cortex and promotes rapid healing of the wound.

• If the cut is large, it is covered with garden pitch. The layer must be at least 5 mm so that the wound does not dry out and the infection does not get there.
• In adults, two-year-old shrubs, thick old branches are cut out, lowering the density of the central part. Thus, you will prolong the youth of the plant, as the branches will be renewed.

• To improve the intensity of growth and the number of flower buds, periodic cutting of branches through one should be done. It will also help form a beautiful, unthickened shrub with high decorative qualities.

• Ornamental hedges are thinned out twice a year: in the spring before the start of sap flow and in the middle of summer, to remove rapidly developing branches and give shape. This prevents the appearance of empty gaps, and contributes to the uniform growth of shoots. For all ornamental shrubs, the rule applies: the more often you cut, the thicker it grows.

Deciduous shrubs that grow along the edge of the crown require minimum care. These are common barberry, cotoneaster, shrub cinquefoil, viburnum. In the first years, they need to be shortened at the same height of approximately 1.5 m.

Adult shoots of shrubs are sanitary pruned at the root, choosing old and damaged branches. If this is not done, then the plants will become thick, stretched out, and will look unkempt.

Deciduous ornamental shrubs that bloom on last year's shoots require extensive pruning. These include lilac, blood-red currant, large-leaved hydrangea. Biennial, non-flowering and damaged branches are removed after flowering. If pruned earlier, the tree may not release flower ovaries at all, and there will be no buds on it.

1. Why ornamental plants need pruning.
2 . Types of pruning trees and shrubs.
3. Trim timing.
4. Pruning of the main shrubs.

• Barberry.
  
• Lilac.
  
• Hydrangea.
  

5. Pruning ornamental trees.

1. Why ornamental plants need pruning

Pruning ornamental trees and shrubs is very important: it gives some plants the opportunity to get more large flowers, others a chance to increase the duration of flowering or even bloom again. Also, with the help of pruning, beautiful crowns of trees and shrubs are formed and maintain their shape in the future. In addition, it is necessary to prevent overgrowth, as well as to keep plants healthy.

All trees and shrubs need pruning.

2. Types of cropping

Formative pruning used to form crowns, restrain plant growth, stimulate flowering.

Most often, the crowns of ornamental plants are given outwardly rounded outlines, without going into the formation of the skeleton. Such pruning is more correctly called a haircut. From the crowns of plants can be cut geometric figures, give them the outlines of various objects or animals. For crowns of complex shape, usually used special frames repeating the given silhouette. The frames are left in the crown for several years, while the formation is in progress, and sometimes for the entire life of the plant. Trees and shrubs with similar crowns are called topiaries.

The formation of a clearly defined skeleton for ornamental trees is rarely used - mainly for the removal of trellises, palmettes or cordons.

The formation of shrubs often includes shortening growths (removing part of a branch) and thinning (removing excess branches completely).

Sanitary pruning- both on ornamental trees and shrubs - it is used to remove diseased and damaged branches.

Anti-aging pruning necessary for aging plants that have lost their decorative effect due to age-related changes. The purpose of this procedure is to achieve intensive growth of young shoots, from which a new crown will be formed in the future. Shrubs for rejuvenation are cut “on a stump”, that is, stumps 5–15 cm high are left, depending on the type of plant. In trees, all branches are severely pruned, and in some cases, the trunks themselves are sawn off.

3. Timing trimming

In order not to lose part of the flowering branches when pruning flowering shrubs, it is important to take into account their flowering time. Crops that bloom in spring or early summer are pruned immediately after flowering ends, and those that bloom in the second half of summer and autumn - in early spring, before bud break. Anti-aging pruning is best done in early spring. And sanitary - at any time, if necessary.

Topiaries are sheared both in spring and summer - so that they retain their shape as the shoots grow.

4. Pruning the main shrubs

Pruning spirea comes down to giving shrubs a neat shape, removing thin dry twigs and fruits. Spring-flowering spireas (s. arguta, s. gray, s. alpine, s. Vangutta, s. Summer-flowering (s. birch-leaved, s. Bumalda, s. Douglas, s. willow-leaved, s. Japanese and others) - in early spring. In bushes over 3 years old, old stems must be removed. Once every few years, rejuvenating pruning is carried out “on the stump”.

In the next video, you can see the process of spring pruning of summer-flowering spireas using the example of c. Japanese Anthoni Waterer, Little Princess, Magic Carpet, Macrophylla.

Barberry

Barberries keep their shape well, but they quickly accumulate a lot of dry branches, so every spring the bushes need to be cleaned. Depending on what is more important (crown shape or flowering), barberries are sheared in spring or summer, and not rarely even several times a season. For old collapsing bushes, anti-aging pruning is used. Tall species of barberries look beautiful when forming a raised crown on several stems. To do this, you need to cut the lower branches, as well as all the thin and randomly growing stems. Leave only 3-7 most well-placed trunks.

Young mock orange bushes usually do not require shaping, if you do want to cut them, it is best to do this after flowering. The plant needs to remove the bare dry tips of the branches, which spoil the decorative effect of the shrub. They are cut to living wood in summer or autumn, since in spring it is not particularly noticeable that they are dry.

With age, the plant has old branches, often deviating to the ground. They are thinned out in early spring before the buds awaken ( optimal time) or in autumn, cutting at the base or over a strong branch. This pruning will allow new shoots to grow. Old neglected mock orange bushes require radical anti-aging pruning in the spring.

Lilac

Lilac can be formed as a bush or as a single or multi-stemmed tree. To make the crown look attractive all year round, it is necessary to select several evenly spaced stems and use them as a basis for the formation of the skeleton. Delete the rest. In the future, annually maintain the shape of the crown by cutting out excess shoots. Lilacs should not be heavily thickened (this negatively affects flowering), so remove all small, weak and unsuccessfully growing branches regularly. This shrub is extremely durable, so it does not need to be rejuvenated.

When forming standard forms and growing grafted lilacs, it is important to cut out the shoots in a timely manner, this will also help to restrain the growth of spray lilacs. Coppice shoots need to be cut in the spring.

After flowering, dry flower stalks are cut off so that the plants do not waste their energy on the formation of seeds. This should be done carefully, cutting off the inflorescence at the first leaves located oppositely. If desired, at this time, you can adjust the shape of the crown by slightly cutting off excessively protruding branches.

For lilacs, do not forget to cut dry flower stalks

Hydrangea

Panicled hydrangea and tree-like hydrangea are pruned in the spring, before the leaves unfold. In order for the flowering to be plentiful, and the inflorescences to be as large as possible, the bush should consist of a small number of strong solid branches. They need to be greatly shortened, leaving only 3-5 buds. Cut out all weak growths.

Also in our gardens there is a large-leaved city, though much less often. It differs from its sisters in that it blooms on last year's shoots. Hence the feature in pruning: branches need to be cut after flowering. And do not cut completely, but only shorten to cause the formation of new shoots. In the spring, only sanitary pruning is carried out near the large-leaved city - and then only if absolutely necessary.

You can see with your own eyes how to cut panicle hydrangea in the next video.

5. Pruning ornamental trees

Pruning ornamental trees is necessary to form the crown, remove the bole of the desired height and further maintain the desired shape. But even if the trees grow freely, every year it is worth carrying out sanitary pruning, removing branches that cross and point inward, and also slightly thin out the crown so that it is well blown. Remember: thickening promotes the development of diseases and pests.

Trees with decorative leaves sometimes have shoots that do not correspond to this variety (chimerism). They should be immediately cut at the very base to stop the spread of this phenomenon.

Trees are also often pruned to restrain growth so that they are easy to care for.

Trees should be pruned in early spring, when the danger of a return of frost has passed. It is advisable to complete all pruning work before bud break begins.

Ornamental shrubs with their abundant flowering, wonderful foliage or graceful needles play big role in the decoration of the garden of any style.

Some novice gardeners mistakenly believe that ornamental shrubs after planting in the garden special care do not require, but they do not need pruning at all. However, it is not. All ornamental shrubs require timely and proper pruning, aimed at removing dead and damaged shoots, curbing rapid growth and forming a beautiful crown (by cutting and thinning), stimulating flowering, as well as rejuvenating old bushes.

The main task of pruning ornamental shrubs is to achieve maximum decorative effect, for which these plants are grown in the garden.

Types of ornamental shrubs.

The range of ornamental shrubs is very diverse, therefore, the methods of pruning them are different - depending on the characteristics of their species. Therefore, before proceeding with the formation of the crown, you should decide which group by type of pruning this shrub belongs to.

Conventionally, all types of shrubs can be divided into flowering shrubs (this can also include shrubs with beautiful fruits: cotoneaster, barberry, etc.) and decorative deciduous.

Beautiful flowering shrubs are grown for their magnificent flowers, so the main purpose of their pruning is to achieve abundant flowering.

According to the features of cutting flowering shrubs should be divided into three groups.

First group includes shrubs that do not form strong replacement shoots from the base or lower part of the crown. Annual growths in these shrubs appear along the perimeter of the crown. The most common in garden plots are common viburnum, varietal lilac, cotoneaster, common barberry, skumpia, irga, magnolia (star-shaped and Sulange), Japanese quince (henomeles), Syrian hibiscus and many others.

Ornamental shrubs of the first group need minimal pruning. In the first years after planting, it is very important to form the skeleton of the plant from strong branches. To do this, in early spring (during the dormant period), all weak, intersecting and incorrectly located shoots that spoil the appearance of the plant are removed.

Pruning of adult bushes can be limited to the removal of shrunken, damaged and diseased branches. If necessary, some living shoots are also removed or cut in order to maintain the symmetry of the branches and the desired decorative appearance of the bushes.

Second group includes shrubs that flower on last year's shoots (on last year's branch growth). Such shrubs include, for example, weigela, action, large-leaved hydrangea, tamariks (comb), Japanese kerria, colquitsia, stephanandra, forsythia, mock orange, three-lobed almonds, some types of spirea (mainly early flowering - spirea Vangutta, Thunberg, sharp-toothed, nipponskaya , oak-leaved) and others.

Shrubs in this group usually bloom in spring or early summer. Considering fast growth these plants, their seedlings should be planted in the garden no older than two to three years of age.

Planted plants are not pruned much - they are limited to removing weak and damaged branches, as well as gentle pruning (by a few centimeters) skeletal branches for a strong kidney. Immediately after flowering, the faded branches of these shrubs are cut off, leaving a strong developing growth, and thin and weak growths are removed.

And in subsequent years, pruning of shrubs of this group should be carried out immediately after flowering. Faded branches are cut off, leaving the best lower young growths and at the same time forming a beautiful crown of the bush to your taste. You should also regularly cut to the base a fourth or fifth of the old branches that have become unproductive - this will ensure the emergence of young powerful shoots from the base of the bush.

It should be noted that the pruning of many shrubs included in the second group has its own nuances. For example, in Japanese kerria, faded branches should be cut to the base or into strong young shoots. Quite strongly should be cut after flowering and three-lobed almonds.

Hydrangea garden (especially in young age), on the contrary, they are pruned purely “cosmetically” - only weak and damaged shoots are removed. And in adult hydrangeas, only a part of the old stems is removed to stimulate the annual formation of strong replacement shoots. At the same time, it is advisable not to cut even faded hydrangea inflorescences from the bush, since in winter they provide some protection to growths and flower buds from frost damage. Therefore, the removal of faded hydrangea inflorescences is best done in early spring.

Third group includes shrubs that flower on current year's growth. Of the common plant species, this group, for example, includes species and forms of spirea that bloom profusely in summer (Bumald's spirea, Japanese, Douglas', loose-leaved), as well as David's budley, tree and paniculate hydrangeas.

In early spring, mature shrubs of this group are pruned heavily so that they have powerful shoots - then they will bloom profusely in summer or early autumn. If this is not done, then the plants will quickly thicken and become neglected. At the same time, without pruning, the quality of flowering of adult shrubs of the third group gradually decreases.

It should be emphasized here that in the first year after planting, young 2–3-year-old seedlings of these shrubs are not pruned as much as in subsequent years (to ensure the normal development of their still weak root system).

After rooting and formation young plant in the future, the shrubs of this group are pruned annually and heavily in early spring. At the same time, all last year's growths of shoots are cut to well-developed buds above the older part of the stem.

If after a few years the main lignified branches thicken, they are thinned out, maintaining the decorative effect of the bush.

This group includes species and forms of ornamental shrubs with original foliage: the white-edged form of white svidina, the golden form of black elderberry and Bumald's spirea, Thunberg's barberry, red-leaved forms of hazel, barberry, skumpia, vesicle (kalinifolia spirea) and other plants.

Decorative deciduous shrubs it is necessary to prune annually in early spring, and prune quite strongly. This is done in order to cause the active growth of young shoots and their leaves have reached the maximum decorative effect, and the appearance of the bushes has been kept neat.

It should always be remembered that proper pruning is only one of the components of a multifactorial technology for growing ornamental shrubs. Even if their pruning is done correctly, however, with an erroneously chosen location in the garden, with improper planting, without timely and regular care(watering, fertilizing, removing weeds and mulching the soil, controlling pests and diseases, protecting heat-loving plants for the winter) the desired result will never be obtained.

Impeccable appearance and abundant flowering of ornamental shrubs are achievable only by studying and providing for their needs. Take care of the plants in your garden - only then they will be healthy and beautiful.

Features of pruning ornamental shrubs.

Pruning of shrubs is carried out in order to preserve and improve decorativeness, increase the number of flowers or fruits, improve bushes and regulate their growth and size, increase or decrease the leaf surface of crowns, create artificial forms and maintain their size and configuration.

To save good growth and the decorative appearance of shrubs with the help of pruning, it is necessary to know their biology, since the growth, aging and longevity of shoots are directly related to the practical tasks of pruning.

Pruning free-growing shrubs.Full cycle stem development includes progressive growth, branching, aging and the formation of renewal shoots. The entire period of stem development is divided into two cycles: the main one, which lasts from bud germination to full development, flowering and crown formation, and the recovery cycle, from the appearance of stem shoots to the complete death of the stem. The duration of the main development cycle of shrubs can serve as a criterion for establishing the degree, methods and frequency of pruning.

The least durable in terms of life span of shoots from ornamental shrubs are spireas and wild roses. Their shoots have vegetative growth within one year and quickly age after flowering. However, the bushes of these species are easily renewed by stem shoots, and many of them have a rather long life cycle. Shoots of other species usually live 2-4 years, depending on the lifespan of the fruit twigs.

Pruning of these shrubs should be done to the point of growth of large stem growth. When the shoots become obsolete, they must be cut back to the underlying stem growth or to the base of the trunk. Bushes that do not develop stem shoots should be cut to the very base (“planted on a stump”). This method of pruning allows you to always maintain the bushes in a decorative state.

Spireas blooming in early summer (medium, hypericum, oak-leaved, crenate, Vangutta, sharp-toothed) should be cut off immediately after flowering, and blooming in the middle and late summer (spirea willow, Menzies, broad-leaved, Japanese, Bumalda) - in autumn or spring ( in April). This is due to the fact that the first ones lay flower buds on the shoots of the last year, the second - on the shoots of the current year. Spiraea pruning must be done annually.

Shrub pruning: a - willow meadowsweet; b - bladder; c - meadowsweet town-leaved.

Honeysuckle and mock oranges have an unstable progressive growth of shoots, lasting from one to several years. Usually, in the second year, the apical growth of the shoots stops, and lateral flowering shoots develop from the axillary buds. The full cycle of shoot development in these types of shrubs is 6–7 years, and the bushes die off after 14–20 years. In honeysuckle and mock orange, at the end of the main development cycle, the aging parts of the stem should be cut out to the place where large stem shoots appear. Parts of the stem, which are woody from the coppice shoots at the top of the crown and are, as it were, a continuation of the main shoot, can be left, since their active life activity can continue for a rather long period (2–3 main development cycles). The perennial stem shoots of these shrubs provide a fairly long period of their life and decorativeness, and timely and correct pruning allows you to always keep them in a decorative state. Shrub pruning: a - Tatar honeysuckle; b - common viburnum; c - common lilac.

It is advisable to prune honeysuckle and mock orange after flowering. To maintain a good shape of the bush, old branches are cut out from the honeysuckle and the longest young shoots are somewhat shortened; in mock oranges, faded shoots are cut out, and young side shoots are left to ensure flowering on next year. Overgrown bushes are thinned out in the spring, leaving only strong young shoots that can quickly restore flowering. More durable compared to honeysuckle and mock orange is currant - alpine and golden. Currant shoots do not require annual pruning. The main methods of pruning are thinning the crown and shortening the shoots before the formation of stem shoots. Currants are characterized by renewal by stem shoots and shoots from the root neck. Therefore, when thinning, it is necessary to cut old branches to the base of the trunk or to the place where strong stem growth is formed. This operation is preferably performed in the spring before bud break or in May after flowering. Usually, old shoots of currants are cut out once every 4–5 years. Lilac and viburnum have a long progressive growth of shoots with the main development cycle of 9–20 years, the durability of trunks is up to 30 years. The types of renewal in these types of shrubs are similar. Rejuvenating pruning of these shrubs should be done to the base of the trunk or to the place where strong stem growth appears once every 5–6 years. Their main pruning consists in shortening the central and lateral branches of the trunk before the stem branches begin to dry out. The weakest and drying branches of lilac are cut out annually, fading branches and brushes - immediately after flowering. In grafted forms, it is necessary to remove root suckers, as they significantly weaken the growth and development of the main plant. best term lilac pruning - spring (March - early April). Old branches of viburnum, if necessary, are cut out immediately after flowering or in winter, when the fruits ripen. Cutting out old branches, you can quickly restore the decorative appearance of the bush. Optimal time pruning - April. The most durable shrubs with a main development cycle of 18–35 years and a life expectancy of up to 20–40 years are cotoneaster, shadberry, yellow acacia and hawthorn. They are characterized by the fact that they almost do not form stem shoots or give it very rarely. Pruning hedge shrubs: a - c - correct; d - d - incorrect.

The main method of pruning the listed shrubs is thinning the skeletal branches and shortening the shoots, which enhances the growth of the remaining branches and the appearance of shoots on the trunk and at its base. Pruning must begin before the onset of the period of aging and the death of the shoots. An indicator of the need for such pruning can be a weakening of the growth of shoots and a decrease in flowering. Technique for pruning ornamental shrubs There is a system for pruning ornamental shrubs, which comes down to nine techniques.

Technique 1: Haircut to keep fit This technique is used for shrubs that are grown in molded hedges and require constant pruning. If you form a hedge in the spring, remove only the growth of the previous year. If you prefer a haircut in the second half of summer, you delete, respectively, the growth of the current year. You may have to do both spring and summer pruning- if you are dealing with fast growing plants. (Attention: we are talking about pruning shrubs that have already been formed for a hedge, having reached the desired height and dimensions.) Formative pruning will help you keep the plant neat and compact - in the desired size and shape. Haircut to keep in shape.

And remember: once you have applied this type of pruning, it is advisable to apply it annually. Small plants can be cut with scissors or electric trimmer. For large ones, you need to use a pruner, as damaged leaves and stumps left from the shoots will turn brown and die. Using this technique, hedges are cut from barberries, privet, hawthorn, honeysuckle, cotoneaster, snowberry.

Technique 2: Cutting New Growth in Half Do not let broom and other gorse bushes spread wide and expose the base. Cut new growth by half every year. Start doing this when the plant is still young. If a few years for pruning are missed, in the future, young shoots will grow, falling down from old coarsened branches, which will drastically reduce the decorative effect of the shrub. Trim off any new green shoots to encourage new branches and growth. Do not cut to old rough wood. Remove dead branches completely. After pruning, the bush will look more elegant and compact. Trim gorse-type shrubs after the flowers have faded but before the seeds have matured. Using this technique, Russian broom, creeping broom, and English gorse are cut.

Technique 3: trimming dead ends Trim heathers and other similar plants, removing dead shoot tips with scissors. This will help the plant to be lean and compact and stimulate its flowering. As soon as the flowers begin to die off, remove them with scissors. With pruning fall-flowering heathers, wait until spring. Remove shoots close to the base of the current year's growth. Do not cut to old dark wood. Heathers are cut using this technique, almost all erics. Removing new growth by half Trim dead ends.

Technique 4: shortening side branches We are talking about shrubs that bloom on the shoots of the previous year. As a rule, these are summer-flowering shrubs. Pruning them stimulates the growth of a large number of side branches and more abundant flowering. It is necessary to cut the shoots one third from the top to well-developed buds immediately after flowering. Hydrangea paniculata can also be pruned in early spring if you want to admire its powerful inflorescences in winter. After pruning, the plant will not look significantly increased in growth compared to last year. But it will become more compact, and flowering next year will be more abundant. Using this technique, hawthorns, panicled hydrangea, rugosa rose (if you grow it not for the sake of fruits, but for the sake of flowering), tree-like erica (it should be cut not 1/3, but 2/3 of the shoot) are cut.

Technique 5: Removing one stem out of three A large number of shrubs that produce many new shoots every year will look healthy and beautiful if you cut one shoot out of three each year. This very common technique avoids over-thickening of bushes, and also stimulates flowering on strong shoots. The technique is applied to three groups of bushes: which bloom early on the shoots of the previous year (forsythia, spiral vanguta, ornamental currants); which bloom profusely throughout almost the entire summer (shrub cinquefoil); some shrubs that are grown for their sake beautiful foliage(turf white "Elegantissimo"). Shortening side branches.

This type of pruning should begin when the shrub reaches the age of three. And if every year after that you cut one branch out of three, the shrub will look strong and compact at the same time. Remove one stem out of three, cutting it as close to the ground as possible. First of all, choose the weakest and oldest branches. After all old and weakened branches have been removed, remove those that extend far from the center of the bush and break the shape of the plant. If you do not see a bud near the ground from which a new shoot can come, leave a short stem with a bud. Subsequently, you can delete this branch as well, when there is enough new growth to replace it. After pruning, the shrub may look somewhat sparse. But soon new shoots will appear that will fill the space. Using this technique, a significant part of the shrubs is cut, if they need to be formed as tapeworms, and not for a hedge. Among them are barberries, cotoneaster, hazel, action, white derain "Elegantissimo", colquitsia, honeysuckle, sea buckthorn, mahonia, weigela, snowberry, stefanander tanaki, mock orange, sucker, ornamental currant, forsythia, cinquefoil, lilac (you need to remove more than one of three, but one of four shoots), elderberry (if it is necessary to stimulate not the growth of foliage, but flowering and fruiting), as well as spirea - arguta, vangut, thunberg, nipponika, Japanese - Bumalda and Shirobana, viburnum (if you want to make the bush more compact). Please note: shrubs that bloom in early spring should be pruned only after they have faded. Summer flowering shrubs can be pruned in early spring.

Technique 6: cutting to the ground Use this technique to cultivate, improve the development of plants that are discarded a large number of strong-growing twigs (for example, sweet raspberries). Some shrubs, such as ornamental raspberries, produce many new shoots each year. Old branches are best cut in early spring to ground level. Cutting to the ground.

Such pruning is also used in cases where, in plants growing like raspberries, young shoots have decorative coloring. For example, Rubus cockburnianus has young shoots white color. With age, their color changes and becomes less interesting. It is advisable to cut such a plant annually to ground level. When pruning such plants, you do not have to worry about making a cut on a bud that you can see. Young shoots will come directly from the ground. Using this technique, decorative raspberries, stefanander inquis, and two-colored lespedets are cut.

Technique 7: pruning to the base of the bush (a) Plants grown for their beautifully colored shoots, such as white turf, will look more attractive if they are regularly pruned 2 inches from the base of the bush to encourage new shoot growth. The same technique is necessary in order to stimulate the growth of large decorative leaves (for example, in elderberry with yellow leaves). Let the plant grow season after planting and then next spring cut it at a height of 5-7 cm from the ground. It is not recommended to cut the plants in this way every year: if the shrub is not well fed or poorly mulched, it will only be able to throw out weakened thin stems. But pruning to the base every second year is just what you need. It will promote the growth of strong thick stems, and the plant will not need intensive feeding. Pruning at the base of the bush (a).

According to this technique, derens with decorative bark and decorative leaves, willows with decorative bark, elderberry (if it is grown for the sake of beautiful leaves) are cut.

Technique 8: pruning to the base of the bush (b) The technique is exactly the same as the previous one. But pruning should be done in the very first spring after planting and is required every year without fail. Buddleia and other shrubs that bloom on current season shoots (such as Hydrangea arborescens) will produce larger flowers on more compact plants if you prune the plant 2 to 2 inches from the base of the bush each spring. If this is not done, the plants will produce smaller flowers on ankle-length, outstretched branches. Pruning at the base of the bush (b).

Cut off all last year's growth, leaving two buds at the base. This is usually 5–7 cm on last year's shoots. If the bush has grown to a very large sizes and crowded with shoots, cut one or two old stems down to ground level. This will allow the plant to conserve energy for better flowering and get rid of badly placed branches. After pruning, many bushes can throw out shoots up to 1.5 m (or more) per season. The same technique is applicable in the case of dwarf Japanese spireas. By cutting them to the base of the bush, you solve several problems at once: create growth conditions for new strong stems, form a compact, beautifully shaped shrub, and in the case of yellow-leaved spireas, promote the growth of brighter and more expressive foliage. Using this technique, buddleys, tree hydrangeas, spireas "Little Princesses", "Golden Princesses", "Gold Mound", "Nana" and the like are cut.

Technique 9: Pruning plants with gray leaves Regular pruning of plants such as lavender helps to create the correct compact form. Start pruning the plant while it is young. If you first resort to a strong pruning of an adult plant and cut to old wood, the shrub can be greatly weakened and even die. Prune regularly every spring. If the growth of the current the year is coming directly from the base of the bush, cut the plant 5-10 cm from the ground. Pruning plants with gray leaves.

When pruning a mature plant with a lignified base that does not have young shoots coming from the ground, be careful. Do not cut into old dark wood. Get by with pruning the previous year's soft shoots 5-10 cm from the old dark wood. Lavender is cut using this technique. Of course, this scheme needs to be approached creatively. If, for example, a shrub that is usually pruned using technique 5 (one out of three shoots is removed) has grown strongly, has lost its attractive shape and has begun to bloom worse, it can be radically planted on a stump using technique 8 and thereby rejuvenate. If the tips of a shrub that is cut using the same technique 5 are frozen, you still have to not only remove one shoot out of three, but also walk with a pruner along the tips of the frozen branches. Deviating from the rules is quite acceptable if you know these rules well and understand why you are doing this or that movement with a pruner. Any pruning technique must be combined with sanitary pruning - remove all diseased, broken, crooked, weakened branches.

Formation and pruning of hedges.

Hedges are widely used in gardens and parks, on the territory of cultural institutions, schools, etc. They organize the territory occupied by green spaces, emphasizing the originality of its individual sections and general principles layouts.

There are two types of hedges: from free-growing shrubs that are not molded, as well as a certain artificial form with a well-defined transverse profile.

In hedges of the first type, flowering shrubs are usually used, the systematic pruning of which greatly reduces decorative qualities. They are not subjected to forming pruning, except for the pruning of some branches that protrude strongly beyond the general contours of the crown. For formable hedges, pruning is mandatory. Moreover, it is produced several times during the summer as new shoots grow and the shape of the hedge is lost, maintaining a given cross-sectional profile.

Pruning of hedges begins in the first year, immediately after planting, and is carried out at the same level from the ground along a stretched cord. Plants are cut from above and from the sides, giving the hedge the necessary transverse profile.

In the first years after planting, the hedges are cut off 1/2-1/3 of the growth of shoots; as they grow, the depth of pruning is increased to 2/3 of the average length of the shoots. When the height and width of the hedge approach the required dimensions, the pruning depth must be increased, leaving only 1–2 cm high stumps. The number of hedge trimmings at a young age does not exceed two per growing season, and when it enters the full decorative phase, their number increase for fast-growing shrubs up to four or six, for slow-growing shrubs - up to three (depending on the natural and climatic conditions and the object where they grow). Such a number of prunings ensures the preservation of a given transverse hedge profile throughout the growing season.

The most common hedges are the following forms cross-section: rectangular, straight and reverse trapezium, triangular, semi-oval and ovoid. The most common is rectangular shape. However, with such a cross-sectional profile, the lower parts of the hedge (especially the high one) are quickly exposed due to lack of illumination. To ensure that all parts of the hedge receive uniform lighting, its side surface should be somewhat sloping. This is especially true for living walls. The slope of the lateral surface of the hedge, equal to 12 cm per 1 m of height, or an angle of inclination of 83 ° to the horizon, creates the best conditions for uniform illumination of the lateral surfaces of the hedges.

The first pruning is done in March - April, before the buds open. At this time, in addition to the leveling haircut, sanitary pruning is carried out and, if necessary, thinning and rejuvenation. After the start of shoot growth and the loss of clarity of the transverse profile of the hedge, leveling haircuts are necessary.

Hedges serve not only for decoration, but also for delimiting space.

When starting pruning, it is necessary to imagine from the very beginning what your hedge will be, and take this into account, giving the required shape to the “cocoon” described above.

It is difficult to make a hemispherical fence out of a fence, which they began to form rectangular in cross section - this must be done from the very beginning. A hedge will only be beautiful if it is properly planted and properly cared for. At the same time, heavily trimmed and natural hedges are distinguished.

Natural hedges are formed from trees or shrubs growing in natural conditions, and are not severely pruned. They are very beautiful, but require a lot of space. Many are suitable for this. woody plants, for example, mock orange, action, diervilla, decorative quince, lilac or evergreens such as holly, different kinds juniper, cypress, Serbian spruce or thuja.

Various cylindrical shapes arborvitae or cypresses and without pruning hedges become slender and tall, the same applies to Serbian firs. Other shrubs still need to be adjusted, while removing overly prominent branches and limiting the height of the plant, rejuvenating. The result of such work should not be conspicuous, it is necessary to maintain the impression of a natural form. Plants for hedges are planted at a density of 1–2 pcs. for 1 running meter.

Trimming a strictly shaped hedge Such hedges are constantly pruned and therefore provide a wide field of activity. They are kept in shape, they should not be wide and too high, only then an ideal fence is obtained. Planting density should be 2-3 pieces. per 1 linear meter, depending on the tallness of the planted species. But it is hardly necessary to use flowering shrubs, at least those that bloom on old wood, such as ornamental quince and dogwood. For strictly formed hedges, primarily hornbeam, forest beech, privet, maple, hawthorn, cypress, thuja, yew and, possibly, holly are used.

Hardwood hedge trimming Small seedlings are used for planting. If they are still green, you must immediately cut them strongly. With repeated pruning, the hedge should grow annually by 15–25 cm. Whoever thinks that due to the weaker pruning of the hedge will achieve results earlier, he will only achieve that the hedge from below will have bald spots and even be bare. But the hedge should be dense over the entire height, starting from the bottom - for this, the shrubs must branch well, which is achieved by constant pruning. Pruning of hedges begins before shoot formation and is repeated 2-4 times until August - September. Intensively growing large-leaved shrubs (for example, maples) are pruned more often; small-leaved crops with tender branches are pruned less frequently. Fences can form vertical walls or take a trapezoidal shape. Last option time-consuming, but more desirable, because in this way you can avoid exposure below. At the base of the hedge, the final width should be observed - 0.4–1 m, depending on the crop, the height is determined at will.

Evergreen hedge trimming Deciduous and coniferous evergreen forms for hedges are not pruned as often as the rest. It is enough to prune before shoot formation and once in June - July. Trees and shrubs with thin branches can be shortened 3-4 times a year. But the last pruning of a hedge from such plants should be carried out in August, so that the cut surfaces heal by winter.

Trimming hedges to create borders For low hedges in the garden, dwarf boxwood is used less and less. Dwarf barberries or flowering shrubs are popular and are pruned only once before regrowth. Undersized spireas, red-, green- or yellow-leaved barberries, evergreen honeysuckle and other species are suitable for border hedges.

Rejuvenating hedge trimming If, despite all your efforts, the hedge is bare from below, it needs to be rejuvenated. This does not apply to evergreens and conifers. The stems are cut as low as possible, about 25 cm above the ground, and a new hedge is formed from shoots that do not need to be thinned out. At the same time, shrubs must be cut as often as young plants.

Beautiful flowering and decorative deciduous shrubs are grown in gardens to decorate them at any time of the year. Therefore, it is so important to be able to maintain their beauty through pruning, the purpose of which is to remove dry and damaged shoots, form a crown, stimulate flowering and rejuvenate plants.

Pruning ornamental shrubs in the spring will help not only maintain the health of the plant, but also give it certain form. From this article you will learn how to properly prune ornamental shrubs in spring and autumn.

In order to properly and timely prune, you need to know the developmental features of each particular plant. So, those plants in which annual increments appear along the perimeter of the crown (viburnum, lilac, cotoneaster, barberry, irga, magnolia, etc.), as well as shrubs, flowers on which appear on the shoots of the current year (species of spirea, buddley, tree and paniculate hydrangeas).

All decorative and deciduous species are also subject to annual spring cleaning. Let us consider in more detail the features of pruning the above groups of plants.

Peculiarities

The main purpose of pruning flowering crops is to achieve their abundant flowering. Plants that form annual growths along the perimeter of the crown need minimal thinning. In early spring, before the onset of the period active growth, carry out a forming procedure, removing all dry, crossing and incorrectly located shoots. It is allowed to remove or cut live shoots to maintain the symmetry of the branches and give the crown a certain shape.

Ornamental plants that bloom on the current year's shoots are heavily thinned in early spring. The purpose of this procedure is the formation of powerful shoots for future flowering.

Note: Neglect of pruning leads to a thickening of the crown and a decrease in the quality of flowering.

You should be aware that young specimens of this group do not lend themselves to strong cleaning in the first year after planting in order to allow the root system to develop. In subsequent years, they are pruned in the same way as adult plants, that is, removing all last year's growths to well-developed buds above the older parts of the stem.

Just as strong spring pruning decorative leafy species are subject (barberry, skumpia, vesicle, golden form of black elderberry, etc.). It is carried out in order to stimulate the active growth of young shoots and achieve the maximum decorative effect of foliage.

When carrying out spring thinning, remember that this procedure is only a small part of the whole complex of measures for caring for ornamental crops. Therefore, try to follow all the recommendations on the features of planting, watering, fertilizing, loosening, pest and weed control. And then your plants will look healthy and beautiful.

rules

Spring pruning of ornamental shrubs is one of the milestones caring for these crops. That is why it must be carried out so that the plants receive only benefit from the procedure.

For proper and high-quality pruning, we advise you to listen to these rules(picture 1):

1. The tool must be clean and well sharpened, rusty tools must not be used.
2. The cut should pass over a well-developed vegetative bud. Ideally, it should begin at the level of the base of the kidney with reverse side and finish above its top. If you make a cut too far from the kidney, then a dry knot forms in this place; if too close, the kidney will dry up.
3. To remove a large bough, first of all, it is necessary to remove the maximum possible number of shoots from it, and then cut it in parts in three washed down. This will prevent the splitting of the wood and the formation of deep wounds in the bark.
4. The edge of a large cut must be cleaned so that moisture does not accumulate in the remaining grooves. Then the cut point should be treated with garden pitch or putty. These substances have an antiseptic effect and are impervious to water. It is recommended to use them 20 minutes after the completion of the procedure, but no later than a day later.
5. The main principle of pruning is to get a crown more Sveta. Therefore, once every 2-3 years, strong thinning is carried out almost to the soil surface. On the other hand, the constant removal of all shoots to a certain height will provoke a thickening of the crown and a deterioration in the quality of flowering. Thus, plants lose their decorative effect.
6. shoots dwarf species must be shortened every year by one third. In this case, both upward-growing and lateral shoots are subject to removal.

Figure 1. Recommendations for pruning ornamental shrubs

When cutting a hedge, it is necessary to ensure that not only the top of the crown, but also the lower part of the plant is well lit. Therefore, the crowns should be narrower than their bases.

Terms of pruning ornamental shrubs

There is an opinion that all ornamental plants should be pruned in early spring. However, this is not the case, because different types have their own timing of bud break and the degree of development of shoots. Therefore, in early spring, you can only thin out decorative leafy species and varieties that bloom on the shoots of the current year.

Those shrubs that bloom on last year's shoots should be pruned after flowering. And some ornamental plants do not tolerate such a procedure at all, since they have a low ability to regenerate. Among these species are called magnolia, viburnum, flowering and common dogwood, irgu, hibiscus, etc.

Pruning ornamental shrubs in spring: video

To cut properly ornamental shrub in the garden, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video, which shows in detail all the stages of this process.

Both spring and autumn procedures have a positive effect on the growth, flowering quality and longevity of ornamental plants, because in a too dense crown, young shoots are suppressed by old branches, which leads to a reduction in the life of the plant as a whole.

However, incorrect or untimely pruning can harm the plant just as much as neglecting this procedure. Let us consider in more detail which shrubs are subject to autumn pruning, and how to properly carry it out.

Peculiarities

Autumn pruning is good because it makes it possible to slowly complete everything necessary work as the plants gradually go into a dormant period. The only condition for such a procedure is to carry it out before the air temperature drops to -10 degrees, when there is a risk of injuring the wood.

Note: Most often, autumn pruning is carried out for sanitary purposes, and for sufficiently mature specimens - for the purpose of rejuvenation. Some species are also subject to autumn formative cleaning. So they cut the hydrangea tree and paniculate, summer flowering spirea, fieldfare, David's buddley, shrub cinquefoil. In these plants, it is permissible to remove all upper part current growth, shortening the branches by 10-40 cm.

In autumn, it is recommended to prune varieties that bloom on last year's shoots (crimson, euonymus, bush mountain ash). Plants such as wild rose, cotoneaster, lilac, skumpia can be cut both in early spring, before the start of sap flow, and in autumn, at the end of the growing season. It is customary to thin out barberry and snowberry late autumn or early winter. Irgu, privet, golden currants lend themselves to this procedure immediately after flowering.

rules

Among the rules for removing branches in the fall, the following are distinguished:

• First of all, dry and broken shoots are removed.
• All cuts must be made at an angle, and their surface must be smooth, without nicks. A garden knife will help smooth out the roughness of the cut.
• Tools must be sharp and clean;
• It is necessary to choose the right tools depending on the goal. For example, shoots with a diameter of 2 cm or less are shortened with secateurs, and for thicker branches you will need a garden hacksaw;
• Pruning should be done carefully, trying not to hook on neighboring shoots;
• The cut point should not be too close to the kidney and not very far from it, since in the first case it may be damaged, and in the second - the formation of a dry leafless knot.
• During sanitary cleaning, unripened shoots are removed to the barked part of the branch, capturing it, leaving 2 cm above the bud.
• Strong pruning stimulates the growth of weak branches, but healthy and developed shoots do not need it.

The cut points must be treated with an antiseptic, for example, garden pitch, and no later than a day after the removal of the branch.