Bathroom renovation from scratch: what to look for. Bathroom renovation: estimate, room specifics, full cycle of work

Water was supplied to the bathroom through polypropylene pipes. Let's turn off the tap and dismantle the entire pipeline together with the mixer. In order to have water supply, we will attach a flexible hose to the tap and we will use it during the repair with our own hands.

There is a ventilation window under the ceiling, in which a fan was mounted and connected to electricity. Under it there is another entrance to the ventilation shaft, where the tin box coming from the kitchen is inserted.

Next in line is the bath. We disconnect it from the sewer and take it out of the room.

The sewerage laid in the bathroom has been in operation since the construction of the house. It's made from cast iron. Carefully, using a small sledgehammer, knock out the pipes from the entrance to the sewer riser.

The last to dismantle the toilet. It was connected to a cast-iron elbow, which is inserted into the sewer riser. To take out this knee - I had to suffer. They've done it right before. But there is still no reception against a sledgehammer and scrap. Just tap on the knee carefully, cast iron is a fragile material. Knocked, twisted - pulled out.

The floor was covered with ceramic tiles. During the repair, we also dismantled it using a perforator, having cleaned the floor to a cement screed.

INSTALLATION OF THE WATER PIPE IN THE BATHROOM WITH YOUR HANDS

The plumbing, which we dismantled during the renovation, ran over the wall. From the condensate that collected on it, it turned black. To prevent this from happening again, we will hide it, where possible, in the walls. To do this, we will make strobes in the places where we plan to install the pipe with a perforator with a nozzle with a spatula. The depth of the strobe should be slightly greater than its diameter so that it can be completely plastered. This work is quite dusty, so we recommend closing cracks under the door with some material. In several places, the strobe needs to be enlarged so that the pipe fastening to the wall can be inserted.

For the installation of water supply, we chose pipes made of polypropylene. It is modern, reliable and durable material, with a long service life. To connect them, a special soldering machine with metal nozzles of different diameters is used. It works like this: we heat the device, at the same time insert the pipe and the coupling into the nozzles, wait until they melt and connect them together. After a few seconds, when the material has cooled down, the connection is ready for use.

Before installing the plumbing in the bathroom with our own hands, we carefully measure all dimensions, calculate the number of required couplings, corners, stopcocks and fittings. If the connection needs to be made detachable, we use special “American” fittings. With their help, part of the system can be separated without destroying it. We plan to install a water meter. Just before the counter and after it, we use “Americans” so that we can replace it if necessary. We will provide for the installation of a main filter for water purification. We solder the shut-off ball valve so that you can turn off the water before replacing the cartridge.

After the renovation in the bathroom, we will have 3 water points - one near the sink, the other - at the bathroom, the third - at the toilet. To two points we will bring cold and hot, to the toilet - only cold. After we fix the polypropylene in the strobes, we screw the valves to the fittings and supply water. It is necessary to check the system for leaks before we start plastering and tiling. In our case, everything turned out to be normal, you can start. But before that, we will make more small strobes to hide in them electric wires. The bathroom had an outlet that was too high off the floor. During the repair, we will lengthen the wiring and lower it lower.

WALL PLASTER

First, we will plaster the window between the bathroom and the kitchen. From the side of the kitchen, it is already patched up, we will do the same in the bathroom. To do this, cut off the height of the opening aluminum profiles, fix them on the frame with screws.

Prepare the solution according to the instructions written on the packaging with the dry mix. Put it on a wide spatula and plaster the window.

To make it easier to lay ceramic tiles on the walls, they must be leveled. If the unevenness is large, you can use plaster beacons by setting them vertically in level. After that, we cover all the strobes with a mixture, then we completely plaster everything.

INSTALLATION OF TILE ON WALLS

To decorate the walls in the bathroom, we chose rectangular ceramic tiles. After waiting three days for the plaster to dry, we proceed to laying.

We will not tile under the bathroom. Let's start with the second row. So that it does not move out, we fix the rail along the entire length. Prepare the glue by mixing the dry mixture with water desired proportion mixer. We put it on the wall with a spatula, level it with a comb over an area equal to the size of one or two pieces and apply the tile, slightly pressing on it.

After laying the tile, wipe it off the adhesive residue. Then we'll take a bite desired color, mix it with water and rubber spatula neatly stitch the seams.

Next, we will fasten the “American” detachable fitting to it, we will attach the heating pipe to it.

To lay the pipe to the place of its installation,

INSTALLATION OF HEATED WATER FLOOR

On the bathroom floor, we decided to make a heating system. To do this, during the repair on cement screed we laid the welded mesh, attaching it to the floor with dowels and screws.

We connect the metal-plastic to the heating system using special corners and fittings. At the entrance to the water heated floor, we will install a valve to regulate the water pressure and a Mayevsky tap. At the exit we will put a shut-off valve. This is done so that you can completely turn off the warm water floor during a possible accident.

After we connect everything into one system, we fill the base of the bathroom with self-leveling properties. Pour the contents of the bag with the dry mixture into a container with water and mix thoroughly with a mixer. Be sure to maintain the proportions indicated on the packaging, otherwise the manufacturer of the mixture does not guarantee the declared strength of the self-leveling floor. After pouring the mixture onto the screed, roll it with a spiked roller to expel air bubbles.

After the rest, we proceed to the final stage of repair. In ventilation holes install decorative elements and electric fan by connecting wires to it.

The self-leveling floor is dry, so ceramic tiles can be laid on it. Here the technology is the same as when laying it on the walls. We stir the glue, apply it to the base, level it with a comb spatula, lay the tiles.

Wait a day for the glue to dry.

Connect the water supply to the entry point. Immediately after the tap, we will install a water meter, after it - the main water purification filter.

The renovation is slowly coming to an end. Already n the time has come . It is installed on the frame that comes with it. Acrylic bathtubs - modern product industry. They are lighter than steel and cast iron, retain heat longer, are silent and practically do not fade.

First we assemble the frame, then we fasten the legs to it.

Next, we put the floor cabinet along with the sink, connecting the tap to the water supply system, and the drain to the sewer pipe.

To install the toilet, you need to make marks in the places of its attachment to the floor,, insert plastic dowels into the holes and fix it with bolts, putting decorative plugs on top of them.

We hang a wardrobe and a shelf for toiletries on the wall. We connect the shelf to the electrical network.

We close the bottom of the acrylic bathtub with a screen, hang a curtain.

We glue skirting boards on the ceiling, hiding the bumps.

Video

In order for your repair, once started, not to become an endless nightmare for you, you need to organize such a serious event as correctly as possible. So, we will develop a step-by-step action plan that will help us start and, most importantly, complete the repair in a reasonable time.

Budgeting

Do not forget that bathroom renovations are quite expensive. Therefore, a preliminary budgeting will be very useful. Initially think over the design of your bathroom, determine everything that you would like to place there. Decide if you are ready to completely change the plumbing, or it is quite possible to get by with such a simple trick as bathroom restoration. Moreover, if you can do some (and maybe all) of the work yourself, without involving builders, this will help save about 50% of the cost of the entire estimate.

Preparatory work

If you have decided to overhaul bathroom, then you need to get rid of old plumbing. Then you can begin to dismantle the old finishing materials. Be sure to pay attention to the condition of the sewerage and water pipes and, if necessary, carry out complete replacement pipes.

If the condition of the plumbing equipment and pipes is satisfactory and does not require complete dismantling, then it will be enough for you to carry out such a procedure as restoring bathtubs. This can significantly reduce the time and cost of repairs.

Bathroom cladding

First you need to prepare the walls and floor for laying tiles. The surface must be smooth and even, only then the tile will look good. After leveling the surfaces, do not forget about waterproofing, which can cover the floor and walls where necessary.

The choice of tiles for wall and floor cladding in the bathroom is huge. Material - ceramics or porcelain stoneware, and color and size - a matter of your taste. After laying the tiles, grouting is required, which can also be matched to any color.

The ceiling in the bathroom can be painted, or plastic can be used to finish it. Besides great choice for a room with high humidity is a stretch ceiling.

Filling the bathroom

Now you can fill the bathroom with everything you need and, first of all, this is of course plumbing. Please note that if you are going to install cast iron or steel bath, then this should be done before tiling. The same items as acrylic bath, shower, sink, toilet, are already installed in a fully prepared room. Enameling baths (if you decide to leave the old bath) is also carried out after all the dirty work.

Then we install and connect the washing machine, place all kinds of cabinets, shelves, mirrors, and various accessories. And enjoy your new bathroom!

Before you start repairs in the bathroom, you should consider the sequence of work. Not observing the technology, you can spoil the tiles laid out on the floor if you start finishing the walls. You can also damage the tiles on the walls when you need to lay electrical wiring. In order for a bathroom renovation to turn out to be of high quality, you need to start it right, which can be found in this article.

Necessary materials

From the materials for the initial stage of repair in the bathroom you will need:

• Mix for mixing concrete.
• Waterproofing (roofing material, epoxy resin or bituminous mastic).
• Pipes and hoses for pipeline construction, stopcock.
• Cables of the required length and section for electrical appliances.
• Waterproofing.

Tools

The following tools will be used to carry out the work:

• Putty knife.
• Container for mixing solution.
• Scissors.
• Rule.
• Construction meter.
• Pencil.
• Brush.

Where to begin

Any work in the bathroom begins with determining the location: sinks, baths, showers, furniture.

To do this, the location of all objects is drawn on a piece of paper. The future environment of the premises depends not only on own desires, but also from the convenience of laying pipes. It is necessary to place all objects in such a way that it is convenient to pull pipes for supplying and draining water to them.

Bathroom preparation

Preparing a bathroom for renovation consists of several stages:

• Water covers.
• Dismantling of old plumbing, pipes.
• Dismantling the door.
• Preparation of all surfaces.

The first step is to shut off the water that enters the bathroom. Only after that you can dismantle all items from the room. When the room is free from unnecessary items, all surfaces are prepared.

If the walls and ceiling have old tiles, then it must be destroyed. On the painted wall, the coating must also be removed. You can use special tools for fast withdrawal paints. If the old coating is still poorly removed, then shallow notches are made over the entire surface of the walls so that the wall becomes rough.

Bathroom renovation. Step-by-step instruction

After the preparatory work the following steps are performed:

• A floor screed is being made.
• Waterproofing is being installed.
• A pipeline is being laid.
• Power is supplied to the devices.

A floor screed is needed to facilitate further tiling work. Due to the implementation of this stage of work, the floor is perfectly flat. In addition to leveling, the screed provides sound and heat insulation. This is especially important for those who live in a private house and on the first floors of apartment buildings.

When the screed dries, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing, which will protect the floor from moisture penetration. Then the pipeline is connected to all plumbing fixtures. Water inlet and outlet is provided.

We must not forget about the laying of electrical wiring.

This is very important at the initial stage of repair. After all, it is possible to immediately make a strobe on the walls without finishing for laying cables to electrical appliances.

Screed installation

The screed is done only on a clean, dry floor. It is necessary to remove all debris from the floor so that no grains of sand remain. After that, the floor is primed with a brush. Then the mixture for the screed is prepared.

First you need to determine the curvature of the floor. For this, the building level is used. If the floor is level, then no screed is required. With height differences per 1 m 2 no more than 1-2 cm, it is done cement-sand mortar. But if the curvature exceeds 2 cm, then a concrete mixture of cement, crushed stone and sand will be required.

Concrete mixture to eliminate large height differences is prepared from cement, crushed stone and sand in a ratio of 1: 3.5: 2.5 in a concrete mixer or thoroughly mixed by hand in a large container.

After preparing the solution, beacons are installed on the floor, along the upper part of which a horizontal line can be drawn. If you put a building level on top of the lighthouses, then it should show a flat surface.

Then the prepared mixture is poured onto the floor in parts. It should reach the top of the lighthouses, but not completely. After an hour, the beacons are pulled out of the dried solution, which is why it is required that the solution does not completely cover their tops.

The resulting cracks from the beacons are filled with a solution. After that, the room is left to dry the floor. During drying, it is better to cover the floor surface with plastic wrap, due to which the concrete will not crack.

Do-it-yourself floor waterproofing

After the concrete has dried, it is imperative to make waterproofing. This is extremely important in order to protect the concrete from absorbing excess moisture.

Waterproofing consists of the following steps:

• Primers.
• Preparation of material for waterproofing.
• Application of mortar (or material)

First of all, the floor must be re-primed. When insulating the floor with liquid mixtures, priming will additionally provide better adhesion.

If rolled waterproofing is used, then it is cut into sheets required dimensions. After that, it is laid on the floor. Sheets of material should be stacked tightly to each other. The seams should be glued with a special tape.

When using liquid mixtures, there will be no problems with seams - the compositions lie on the floor in seamless layers.

Using bituminous pastes, you can not only perform insulation, but also level the floor.

Liquid waterproofing is applied with a brush to the entire surface. And when using pasty formulations, a spatula is used. In the first and second cases, care must be taken to ensure that the material is applied in a uniform layer.

Installation of pipelines

Plumbing in a bathroom is one of the challenging tasks. The main thing in this matter is correct compilation communications layouts. It has already been described above how to do it correctly.

After that, the laying method is determined, which can be:

• open.
• closed.

Open implies the passage of pipes along the walls from the outside. This type is less presentable than the closure type gaskets. The last option is good because all the pipes are hidden in the walls. But for this you will have to spend a lot of time, because you have to ditch the walls.

So if selected open type installation, then all pipes are laid along the walls as low as possible to the floor. When closed, it is necessary to draw on the wall the places where the pipes pass, then to perform the gating of the surface. Pipes are laid in the prepared strobe, which are smeared with cement mortar on top.

When installing the pipeline, it is necessary to connect one of its elements to another in series. All connections must use rubber gasket which will protect against leaks.

Serial laying will not allow the simultaneous use of several devices with good water pressure. To ensure uniform distribution of water, you can use collector wiring.

The collector type of laying implies a separate laying of pipes for each device. Due to this, a shut-off valve can be installed on each site, which will allow you to turn off the water not immediately in the whole house, but only on separate area. After laying the line, you need to check the system for leaks.

Wiring

When laying electrical wiring in the bathroom, there are several points to consider:

• Installation of automatic switches.
• Use of 3-core cables.
• Use only protected electrical appliances.

First of all, you need to calculate the load of all electrical appliances in the bathroom. You need to add about 25% of the stock to it. After that, the devices must be divided into several groups (the load of a separate group should not exceed 1.5 kW). After that in electrical panel for each group of consumers, an automatic switch of the corresponding rating is installed.

With an installed power of a group of electrical appliances of 1.5 kW, a 10 A circuit breaker is suitable (1500 W / 220V \u003d 6.8 A. The nearest 10A circuit breaker is rated).

Cables should be used only three-core. The 1st core is connected to the phase, the 2nd - to the neutral conductor, the 3rd - to the ground loop on the house. If in apartment building there is no such circuit, then the core can be brought to any metal surface, for example, on the shield door.

Top tips from professionals for initial bathroom renovations:

• First of all, you need to level the floor.
• The second step is to connect the plumbing and electrics.
• You need to decide in advance on the location of the plumbing so that you do not have to redo it.

Performing the initial stage of renovation in the bathroom is the most difficult and responsible. Further work and the final result depend on this. Such recommendations will help to complete the rough work as efficiently as possible and help save time and material resources.

Are you thinking about renovating your bathroom with your own hands? This is not surprising, since the implementation of the entire repair process on your own will be much cheaper. On average, the amount of the possible fee is calculated from half the cost of all necessary materials.

But, of course, you should not think that everything will be simple: you will need to calculate all possible costs, have knowledge and sufficiently high skills, if not in repair, then at least in handling tools. If you do not have the above, then it would be better for you to contact the specialists. Think and weigh your decision carefully. Read this article about do-it-yourself bathroom renovation with a photo and then finally decide on your decision. In it, we will dwell in sufficient detail on the production of actions in their chronological order with materials and approximate cost the cost of the necessary materials.

To carry out a bathroom renovation with your own hands, you will have the following:

• Choose plumbing, determine its quantity and nomenclature;
• Develop a bathroom design and choose the color you need:
• Calculate and purchase the necessary finishing materials;
• Prepare the room in which the repair will be carried out;
• Estimate Current state floor in the bathroom. Decide on the method of its repair and purchase materials for the work;
• Repair floor. This item will include:
• its waterproofing - that is, measures to make the floor waterproof.
• screed replacement, under the screed rises the layer created to level the floor, and on which the flooring is usually installed.
• floor insulation;
• Pipeline laying;
• Work with electrical wiring;
• Plastering of the ceiling and walls;
• Wall cladding, grouting and sealing corners;
• flooring;
• Installation ventilation system.
• Installation of plumbing of your choice.

The time that you spend on do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is counted from 2 weeks, in case of replacing the bathroom and toilet. It will take at least 2 months to replace the floor screed. Let's go directly to the points of the specified plan:

Selection of plumbing

It is difficult to talk about specific tips here, since everything will depend on your choice of brand and manufacturer. We only mention that when repairing, you should think about what to do with the old bathroom. If it is intact, then below, when considering the preparation of the premises, ways to improve it will be indicated.

Design stage

This stage is directly related to the choice of plumbing, as it will affect the complexity and cost of the repair itself. So, the characteristic depends on the shape of the washbasin tiled flooring walls. It will be impossible to specify all the details; this is a topic for a separate article. Keep in mind that when building a house, bathtubs are made out the same way with the same materials from the same supplier, respectively, the cost of repairs can reach up to 1/5 of the cost of housing. AT ordinary house it makes no sense to think about a mixer built into the wall, since such an opportunity is laid even during construction, and breaking the wall is an unacceptable option.

Do not use normal commercial wood and simple steel parts. Such materials absorb moisture or are prone to corrosion, so using them in a place with high humidity does not justify itself. For the same reasons, installing sockets and switches in the bathroom is life-threatening. Of course, there are ways to make them, meeting a number of formal requirements, but we will not consider them here. If your apartment is tight on space, consider installing a walk-in shower. This will help free up some space in which you can install something more necessary. Think and choose a design that you like.

estimate

It makes no sense to explain why it is necessary to evaluate the equipment needed for repair. Remember that it is wrong to be guided by a lower price when choosing materials for do-it-yourself bathroom renovation. There are a number of parameters that are essential, but which are quite difficult to figure out without special knowledge. These are the coefficients of moisture absorption, thermal expansion and porosity of the material. Since the bathroom is a place with a large variation in temperature and high humidity, which affects both the strength of materials and the sanitary and hygienic situation in the home, it will be wrong to proceed from the principle of cheapness.

Some parameters, you most likely will not find in the description of the material, so you should select materials that are directly intended for use in the bathroom. The materials used for outdoor construction may also be suitable, since the conditions of interest to us are similar.

• Price for tile will be from 40 to 60 rubles apiece, depending on the country of origin. The quality of tiles of domestic and European manufacturers on average do not differ from each other, but European samples usually have a better design. The situation for floor and wall tiles is the same, the difference is only in size. Porcelain tiles will cost more, from 50 rubles apiece, however, it is recommended to use it for flooring. Unlike ordinary ceramic tiles, they have a non-slip surface and greater durability. Given the rather high traumatism of bathrooms in medical statistics, this is an important circumstance. In the store, you should pay attention to the condition of the surface of the tile. The presence of damage on it will lead to the appearance of uncleaned dirt. In order to make sure the integrity of the tile you choose, lean it against your face and look at it along the light source. Another factor is the aspect ratio. If the tiles are of different sizes, and this is quite possible, then during installation, the surface will look repulsive, and even if it is not installed, you will have to spend time returning the goods to the seller. To check, take a few pairs and attach the edges to each other and take a closer look. The difference in size should not exceed a millimeter. Then test the edges, they should be even.
• Tile adhesive. Given that the installation of tiles will be carried out by you yourself - the best choice there will be a slowly drying glue, from half a day to a day. This will allow you to correct all possible mistakes made and give you the opportunity to work for your own pleasure. The spatula should be selected specifically for the glue, such information is contained on the package. If for some reason the package does not contain information about the pitch and depth of the teeth, and the glue itself has proven itself, then choose a shallow depth of 3 to 6 millimeters. Using a large-toothed trowel will most likely result in cavities under the tiles.
• Templates for laying tiles. It is best to take plastic crosses, because they are easier to work with.
• Tile grout. It is not necessary to purchase, since a piece of cable 5-6 millimeters in diameter may be suitable for grouting.
• Glass-magnesite sheet from 250 rubles per 1 sheet.
• Laminate from 300 rubles per board.
• Bulk floor. For the bathroom, it is preferable to use two components, this is the initial viscous filling, then comes the liquid one, for leveling. The approximate price is from 220 rubles per 10 liters, the same with the effect of insulation - from 640 rubles per square meter.
• Teak or larch floor. If you decide to make a wooden rather than a tile floor. It will cost more, but it looks and feels better. Price from 500 rubles per square meter.
• Pipes. The best option is polypropylene pipes: for cold water (PPN) from 24 rubles per square meter, for hot (PPR) from 35 rubles. The choice is due to the fact that working with steel pipes is difficult, metal-plastic tends to flow in fittings over time, while polypropylene can be welded and hidden in the wall. Sewer pipes go from 45 rubles. Fittings fall into the same category. Solid plastic fittings are most preferred as this will avoid potential leaks. The transition to metal makes sense when connecting pipes to the boiler. Shut-off valves must be spherical and soldered into plastic. The cost of fittings and fittings will be 60% of the price of pipes. Measure when buying outside diameter pipes with calipers. To work with pipes, diamond drills are required, if the sizes do not match, you will have to buy more, and such drills are quite expensive.
• PVA emulsion - from 240 rubles for a 5-liter package.
• Plumbing. It all depends on your choice, let's just not skimp on quality - plumbing should serve for a long time and in good faith. Considering the options for a heated towel rail, it is recommended to take a heated towel rail from of stainless steel. Other options are either of poor quality or overpriced. When choosing a faucet, consider purchasing with infrared sensor, which automatically turns on water when hands are raised with a pre-set temperature. You've probably seen this at airports. The mixer, of course, is not the cheapest, but it will allow you to cut your water costs by half, and heating energy by 40-45%.

Prices are approximate and based on the current market value. Nevertheless, you can somehow navigate at such prices and, taking into account the area, calculate the repair of the bathroom with your own hands. You will not need all of the above directly when performing work, some of the options presented are alternatives, their choice will be discussed in more detail below.

We repeat once again: you should not be guided by cheapness when choosing materials, their use will only lead to more complicated work. When purchasing materials, consider possible marriage and calculation errors: there is almost always a need for some stock. So, with tiles it is recommended to have 3-5% of the excess amount. When renovating a small bathroom, you will do a little more - 5-7%. For other materials, add 35-40%.

Now let's get straight to work.

So, as already mentioned: first of all, the question is in the old bathroom. Cast iron bath can be upgraded with acrylic or epoxy. Installation new bath from cast iron will not give any advantage in quality and service life, and its dismantling and installation of a new bathtub is quite time-consuming. For a tin bath, in the absence of enamel chips or other serious damage, an acrylic liner can be used. At bad condition tin bath do not hesitate and choose a new one. To update the bathroom, you do not need special skills. The difference between acrylic and epoxy is price and labor intensity, the latter being cheaper but somewhat more difficult to work with. It is impossible to create an insert on your own - it is made at the factory, where you will have to order it, the installation technology is as follows:

• thoroughly clean and degrease the bath;
• insert the liner and check the correct fit drain holes;
• recheck and apply glue to the inside of the tub.

The method is quite expensive, but still cheaper than a new bath.

Turn off the water. Disconnect the cold water supply from the cistern. If you are not going to move out for the duration of the repair, then it makes sense to run water to the kitchen through a temporary pipeline. Even using an ordinary hose will do, the main thing is not to forget to turn off the water for a period of absence or at night. The quality, as you understand, of such a system is far from ideal. But otherwise, you will have to do without water for about 10 days, which is an even worse prospect.

Proceed to dismantle everything in the bathroom. Only the walls should remain. sewer system at this stage, do not touch yet, muffle the heating for the heated towel rail with screw plugs. Next, turn off the power in the bathroom.

Now you can start cleaning the surfaces of the bathroom. This part of the work is associated with garbage and dust, work with glasses, a respirator and, if you don’t want to clean the whole apartment later, with closed door or a film in the opening.

Work starts from the ceiling. For old tiles, use a hammer drill with a chisel for concrete. If cement mortar was used to fasten it, then you will have to remove it completely. Be careful when working with the floor! If your old screed is in good condition, then the puncher can damage it when cleaning the cement substrate, and this is unnecessary trouble for you. If there is reason to save the old screed, then use a grinder with a diamond cup. The work will be done more accurately and will reduce the cost of overhauling floors.

For the top layer of plaster and old paint a drill with a 80-100 mm round metal brush is used. In old houses, the plaster is often fragile, this must be removed to the ground, whether it be brick or concrete. It is enough to level a solid one with a drill using a cleaning brush and measuring the level. When working with plaster over electrical wiring in the bathroom, you need a hammer drill with a chisel. Remove the wires. Just in case, tap the walls and try to drill them: in a number of houses of the Brezhnev era, gypsum-fiber boards were used for insulation. If you find something like this, you will have to dismantle them. Work will increase, but their replacement is necessary. Be careful when working with the ceiling, it can come to collapse. Take care of the supports.

Cleaning completed, old tiles removed. Time to mop the floors. After wet cleaning you can start inspecting the installed screed. The presence of at least one crack will lead to the need to replace it, which means a major overhaul of the floor in the bathroom. Of course, if the damage is small, then this can be avoided by using a self-leveling floor layer. But more on that later. First of all, consider the need to remove the old screed and proceed with the waterproofing of the floor.

In order to waterproof the floor, there are few options: it is aquaizol or its polyester analogue. Plain film it is not applicable for the bathroom, moisture will somehow seep through, while Aquaizol will retain water at any temperature. The insulation should be led to the wall at least a quarter meter (25 cm) based on weight. 4000 liters of water for 10 square meters is the tensile strength of the coating. Folds at the corners should not have cuts. The joints of the waterproofing layer are glued with mastic or welded with industrial hair dryer. Before doing such welding, practice, it's not easy.

Having finished with the insulation, proceed with the installation of a new screed. In assessing the possible costs, already mentioned desired material. This is a glass-magnesite plate. Its strength will allow you to lay the reinforcing mesh and install beacons without delay. There are no alternatives, foam concrete and foam concrete are too fragile, and expanded clay absorbs water. This is an extremely long stage, the new screed must stand for 40 days before you can continue work. For screed there are special requirements for cement mortar:

• brand of cement from the 400th; sand must be quartz;
• sand and cement are related to each other in a ratio of 4: 1;
• the volume of water must be equal to the volume of cement;
• to water you need to add PVA emulsion in the amount of 1/10 of the volume of water.

The formation of the screed is carried out along the markers in a layer of 4-5 cm. Having leveled the formed surface, bring it to smoothness. A tiled floor requires a level base surface for its flooring.

Let's move on to replacing the pipeline. You should start with sewer pipes, since on seals with sealant they are assembled quite quickly, one day is enough. Welded joints are not made on sewer pipes. After that, you can proceed with peace of mind to soldering water pipes.

How to lay them? AT open form you shouldn’t do it, it won’t bring aesthetic pleasure to anyone, making strobes, if you don’t know the concept, is a groove in the wall laid to be able to remove the pipe, a tedious and time-consuming task, and in the case of block houses, the reinforcement cannot be broken, yes and she herself will not give a shtroba. Nevertheless, there is a solution: the pipes can be run parallel to the floor, and then a galvanized slope can be made on them. Next, with the help of silicone on the completed slope, glue the facing tiles in the same color to the future look of the bathroom.

The slope is also glued with silicone to the floor and ceiling, and can be completed even after the work is completed. If necessary, silicone can be cut with a mounting knife. With a standard bathroom layout, the length of the slope will be approximately a meter. You still can’t do without strobes, but this is only for vertically installed pipes: for a faucet in the bathroom, if there is one in your bathroom, for a faucet in the washbasin, and a couple more if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. Pipes should be foamed in the strobes, this will serve as additional protection against fogging and heat loss. Installation process polypropylene pipes very simple, the main advantage is that thirty minutes after the end of the welding of the last joint, you can use your piping system. uh

Remember, butt joints are not allowed. Use fittings and couplings to connect them.

For welding joints, you will need: a machine for socket welding of pipes made of polypropylene; nozzles for used pipes; pipe cutter; shaver, beveler. Metal-plastic is well suited for a heated towel rail. Thanks to its flexibility, the lower fittings will be hidden under the slope, and the position of the upper ones will not change.

It is worth laying it with a double-insulated wire tightened into a corrugation. The most commonly used is plastic, the price is low, however, if you are planning to replace the wiring throughout the house, use metal, the wiring will be shielded.

Before starting plastering work, glue the protruding waterproofing to the wall with construction tape; as already mentioned, it cannot be cut off. The bathroom is a cramped room, so for plastering we recommend using not a trowel, but half rubber ball. It can be used for all kinds of work with alabaster, plaster or hardening compounds. It will be easier to work that way.

The plaster itself must necessarily be carried out along the lighthouses - a flat surface is required for subsequent wall cladding. It is best to use beacon profiles, which are easy to get at any hardware store. Making lighthouses yourself is not worth it, you will only waste your time and hardly be able to achieve flat surface. The plastering sequence is normal, to the floor from the ceiling. Apply two layers - for the conditions of the bathroom with its fluctuations in humidity and temperature, this form will be the strongest.

Ceiling insulation is required not to comply with the temperature regime, but to prevent future problems that will certainly arise if condensation is not stopped. The best option would be to use a glass-magnesite sheet, unlike the floor, it will be bonded to the LSU ceiling surface with silicone or mounting adhesive. At the time of work, use the slats as supports, somewhere around 1-2 per meter of ceiling. Do not remove them until the glue has dried.

Having finished with insulation, we proceed to glossing, although this gloss carries a functional value like condensate. A good option is material such as plastic lining or laminate. Don't worry about the reliability of the material. Moisture-resistant adhesive, even if it peels off in part of the ceiling, will not cause collapse - since the boards are interconnected, forming a single integral structure. Upon completion of work with the ceiling, you will proceed to the wall cladding. The laid tiles will serve as a support for the laminate.

When preparing the material, follow these points:

1. processing the wrong side of the PVA material with an emulsion;
2. laying itself is carried out using mounting glue or construction silicone;
3. the crest of the tongue, it is understood as the protrusions due to which the boards are connected, as well as the method of such a connection itself, a thin layer of glue is applied, its drips must be immediately removed.

For silicone, table vinegar is suitable, for glue, solvent. Please note - the last two boards of the laminate should be laid together, fold them into a house and insert, pressing the joint until it clicks into place. Do not forget about the props before the glue hardens.

Corners should be sealed with silicone to prevent moisture from penetrating under ceiling cladding. When making holes for wiring, do not make them at the junction of laminate boards. I think you understand why. When finished with the ceiling sheathing, foam the hole or fill it with silicone.

Of course, there are other options as well. But independent production stretch ceilings is often unjustified, and we will not describe its methods here. If you wish to do so, please review the selection criteria. Possible and rack ceiling- also a very common option, but its manufacture is the topic of a separate article.

For wall cladding, tiles are usually used. Porcelain stoneware has similar properties, but is more expensive, while the advantages that were mentioned when choosing floor tiles do not matter for walls. Extended bathroom wall covering plastic panels, it is quite cheap and meets the rules of hygiene, but in this article we will not consider how to work with such material.

When laying tiles on the walls, the cutting of the seams should be observed. For this, crosses are used, inserted between the tiles on the glue and immediately removed, as described above. The application of glue is carried out with longitudinal strokes of a spatula, with an average tile size of 30 by 30 centimeters - 0.25-0.35 square meters each. There are no voids under the tiles, so apply glue so that the rustications are parallel to each other and not too deep. Each tile you install should be tapped side by side with a rubber mallet from the previous tile to the free edge. On those tiles that will fall on the outlets of the wiring pipes, you need to pre-drill holes with a diamond crown. Once the glue has set, seal the corners with silicone. The method is simple - a thin layer is applied to the silicone polyethylene film, then a piece of electrical cable is applied.

Apply pressure and then remove the silicone streaks with vinegar. A smooth concave surface should form. If desired, the corner seam can also be covered with a decorative overlay due to the same silicone. On the plane, the cutting of the seams is carried out with a special composition, which is cheaper than silicone. The cross is removed, the remaining seam is filled and pressed down with a cable - the film is optional in this procedure - the streaks are removed. Do not cut the seams with your finger - irregularities that are not visible to the eye will appear inside the seam, in which dirt tends to accumulate. The technology of laying tiles for walls and floors does not differ in itself, about small features for gender will be discussed in the next section.

Please note that if you use a mixer with decorative caps, then you should buy a crown with a larger diameter than pipes. Otherwise, you will have to measure out the places for the holes, which requires jewelry work.

For the floor, there are two options for tiles - the reasons why porcelain stoneware is better than tiles or wooden floors have already been explained.

In the case of a wooden floor, the procedure will cost more, but the result is more pleasant. The boards should be selected tongue-and-groove, the laying procedure will be similar to the ceiling, but leaving an indent from the wall of 2-2.5 centimeters. This space is designed for the swelling of the boards. Do not leave cavities, fill the gaps with polyurethane foam before installing the skirting board. Coated with PVA emulsion and liquid acrylic varnish wood flooring will last a very long time.

For tiles, installation should be done from the door, so that the cut tiles are under the slope or in the bathroom, where they will not be visible. This last row of cut slabs is laid last after the glue has set under the other slabs so as not to knock down the work already done. The only difference from laying on the wall is the absence of seams - the tiles fit together.

First of all, inspect the box, removed in preparation for repair. Often, after cleaning and repainting, they are suitable for further use. Just install it back. It would be better if you additionally install a flapper valve in it to avoid cold air flows into winter time. It is recommended to install a fan for the ventilation system, this will ensure better air circulation in the apartment, and prevent the appearance of fungus on the walls.

It has no fundamental features. Often, for new products, you can even find instructions for the sequence of actions for its installation. Your actions include installing a bathtub (it will not be possible to carry it out on your own, without an assistant) or a shower cabin, as well as a sink. Then there are mixers, then a water meter. If you wish, you can connect a water heater to your bathroom.

In the bathroom, it is permissible to mount such stationary electrical appliances as an exhaust fan, the cord must be three-core, have a protective conductor and a Euro plug with a sealed entry into the housing, and ceiling lamp requiring waterproof performance. Washing machine- a topic for a separate discussion, since it does not apply to stationary devices.

All the necessary steps for making repairs in the bathroom with their own hands were dismantled. Watch the video, where the bathroom renovation procedure is described step by step. We did not mention the bathrooms combined with a toilet due to the numerous features of the work and about twice as much labor than for the repair of two individual rooms, this topic needs to be discussed separately. As you can see, the procedure is time consuming, and if you are unsure of your skills, then it is better not to take it.

It is better to entrust this time-consuming and rather long procedure to specialists. They definitely know how to do things right. But you should still be familiar with all aspects of a bathroom renovation, for a higher chance of completing the entire renovation process successfully and without complications.

At least after reading this article, you will be able to control the work of the performers to whom you decide to entrust the repair in the bathroom. On the other hand, if you are sure of success, go ahead! Repair costs will be significantly reduced. For a more successful do-it-yourself bathroom renovation, we recommend that you watch a video on this procedure.