Metal frame special adhesive self-tapping frame. The main nodes and connections of the frame house. Rafter system nodes

Building a frame house is like assembling a constructor. Wooden frame house assembled according to the scheme. At the same time, the strength and reliability of the future structure depends on the quality of the assembly units. What are the features of the implementation of the main components and connections of the frame house? And how to properly fix the lower and upper harnesses, racks, jibs, crossbars?

Knots for connecting the lower trim

The lower one is a frame made of a wooden beam or several boards knocked together, which is laid on top. On the concrete foundation under the lower strapping, the so-called beds - boards are placed. They perform the main function - they level the foundation and hide those flaws that could be made during its pouring.

The beds are attached to the concrete foundation with anchors. Mounting points are located at a distance of no more than 0.5 mm. At the same time, at least the ends of the beams are fixed with anchors.

Connecting the bed to the concrete foundation.

To install anchors, holes of a certain depth are drilled. They pass through the board and go deep into the thickness concrete foundation. The depth of drilling and driving in the anchor is determined by the height of the wall of the house and the design of the foundation. For traditional 2.5-3m stud wall on concrete base the depth of the anchor in the concrete is 15-20 cm.

The second option for mounting anchors is to concrete the anchor studs in the process of pouring the foundation. When casting concrete slab or tapes in predetermined places hollow cones are inserted into the thickness of the uncured concrete with internal thread. After the concrete has hardened, the anchors are screwed into these elongated cone-shaped studs.

Features of the anchor connection

• Holes in the beam are drilled 2-3 mm more than the diameter of the anchor stud.
• Wide washers can be placed under the anchor bolt heads to increase their contact area with wooden surface, and increase the strength of the fastening connection.

Anchoring bottom harness.

Before fixing, mandatory waterproofing is carried out - a roofing material is placed on the concrete or its surface is covered with a special waterproof composition, mastic. After installation, check the horizon. Deviations from the horizontal level are allowed in sizes not exceeding 0.5 ° per 3 m.

Lower strapping knot on a columnar foundation

The fastening of the structural units of the frame house described above is used on tape and slab foundations. For columnar bases, a different scheme is used:

• For ease of attachment top part column supports should have a flat horizontal head with holes.
• Put on top of the headband wooden beams, which perform the function of grillage.
• In the beams, recesses of the required depth are drilled. They are drilled under the holes in the headband.
• Fix the beam with bolts or screws.

Strapping from a built-in board on pile foundation.

On a note

It is necessary to fasten the beam to the foundation. Shallow belts and slabs are subject to significant movement during freezing. Reliable connection bedding and lower strapping ensures the reliability and durability of the entire structure.

The design of the nodes of the frame house

Vertical frame racks are installed on top of the bottom trim and fastened with nails. Fastening with metal corners is used for T-shaped connection of beams without cutting. It's easier to do it. Beam fixing metal nails used at the junction with partial cutting of the lower beam. This is a more difficult do-it-yourself connection.

A joint without cutting is used for corner frame supports. Butt joint with fixation with plates or corners is used in the main nodes of a frame house, if the construction is done by hand, without the involvement of professionals. If experienced builders work, then they use a connection with a partial tie-in. It prevents strong movements of the timber and frame boards during drying.

On a note

The size of the cutting for the vertical frame rack is 30-50% of the thickness of the lower trim beam.

The corner joint without cutting is fixed with metal plates using wood screws. In this case, reinforced steel corners with several perforations are used. As well as durable self-tapping screws in light golden and silver color.

Strengthening the corners for fixing the corners of the house is carried out due to technological processing - metal plates are hardened during the manufacturing process. Or through the use of metal with big thick section, up to 2-3 mm.

Ways of fastening racks.

A punched connection is often used to attach posts in the middle of a wall. The supports are inserted into the prepared recesses and additionally fixed with nails. After that, their fixation in a vertical position is supplemented with jibs - diagonally inclined strips that rest on one side against a vertical rack, on the other - against a horizontal harness. For the convenience of the stop, the ends of the jibs are beveled - they cut off part of the end.

Temporary jibs

In the process of assembling the frame, temporary braces are also installed, which fix several uprights. Temporary jibs are placed between the upper and lower trim at an angle. They connect several vertical racks and are fixed with nails.

Temporary braces are located with outer side frame. For their fastening, it is not necessary to cut down, but they need to be fixed in such a way that, upon completion of construction, temporary auxiliary beams can be easily dismantled. Therefore, nails are used to fix them.

Temporary jibs for racks.

Temporary braces hold the posts upright until permanent braces are installed at the bottom and top of each stanchion. Once the permanent braces are in place, the temporary fixing beams can be removed.

On a note

The construction project contains a description of the nodes of the frame wooden house in the drawings. He often does not describe in detail the method of attaching temporary jibs, since they do not bear the main load and support the frame temporarily.

Upper binding knots

The upper trim of the frame house is laid on the vertical frame supports after the installation of the corner posts. If the perimeter of the house is large enough (more than 6 m), then in addition to the corner posts, intermediate ones are also placed - in the middle of the wall. And only after - put the top harness.

After laying the top row, temporary braces are attached - through the entire wall. Next - attach the remaining vertical racks and struts to them. After that, the temporary braces between the upper and lower trim are removed.

It is most convenient to assemble the walls of a frame house in a prone position, knocking together the lower trim, vertical posts, crossbar, jibs and upper trim. And only after that raise the walls in vertical position, where it remains only to fasten together all the walls of the house. For strong connection walls of the frame house, the second upper trim is used, which overlaps the first upper trim.

Double top knots.

When using a double top trim, you can do without the use of steel corners. In this case, there is no need to partially cut off the ends of the boards, performing the connection "in the paw". Because such connections with cutting out part of the butt end violate the integrity of the board and, accordingly, weaken it.

Beams are placed on top of the second upper trim interfloor overlap. The beams are laid on the end, the distance between the beams is set depending on the size of the spans and fastened with nails.

wall corner

The corner of the frame house is the place of maximum heat loss. As a rule, it is in the corners that condensation accumulates and it is they that need to be insulated in the first place. Therefore, even at the frame assembly stage, care must be taken to ensure that the corners of the future frame house are warm. How to do it?

Smooth fixing plates are placed on the outside of the vertical beam. They connect adjacent single-level surfaces of a vertical post and horizontal beams. Fixing corners are located on the side. They connect mutually perpendicular surfaces. What else is important to know about angles?

During construction in regions with a cold climate, non-solid wood is used as vertical racks. wooden beam, but assemble the corner post from separate boards. The resulting design resembles a well. A heater is installed in this internal space, which retains heat and limits possible heat loss.

Installation of corners in the frame of the house.

It should also be warm, for this, single racks are used, but the load from window and doorways removed with a bolt. The crossbar is fixed along the entire length of the frame wall with the help of a gash into all vertical posts. At the same time, it is important to take into account that under each window opening there should be at least 1-2 vertical support boards.

Rafter system nodes

To the knots truss system include all connections between its elements, namely:

• Fastening the floor beams to the top trim.
• Fastening the rafter to the upper harness.
• Fastening racks on the gables to the upper trim and to the extreme rafters.
• Fastening of internal racks to the rafter bed and to the ridge.
• Fastening struts - inclined beams that support the rafters and rest on the bed.
• Fastening the crossbar to inclined rafters.
• Lathing fastening.

The nodes of the truss system.

The fastenings listed above can be done using corners or using nails if the elements of the truss system are connected with overlapping each other.

Fasteners

The following elements are used as fasteners for the nodes of a frame wooden house:

• Mounting plates (corners or even plates with or without holes). Plates and corners are attached to beams or supports using wood screws.
• Staples (straight and angled) - wire fasteners of a certain diameter. Their edges are bent and inserted into the ends or side surfaces beams.
• Bolts - used to tighten adjacent beams and rafters, inserted into through holes and fixed in them with nuts.
• Nails.

All connecting fixing and fasteners for frame buildings are made from metal. For fastening load-bearing elements use reinforced corners made of hardened steel or increased thickness, 3-4 mm. For fastening the supporting elements, corners made of ordinary steel with a thickness of 2-3 mm are used.

Variety of fasteners.

In order to protect against corrosion for the manufacture of corners, plates, galvanized steel is used. Rust protection is especially important in outdoor construction, when metal fasteners in the walls can become the center of moisture condensation, wetting a section of the wall. Therefore, galvanized fasteners are in high demand in various nodes of the frame house.

Node connection errors

The drawing of knots assumes the presence of sketches and descriptions. However, despite this, novice builders often make offensive mistakes. Let's list the main and most frequently repeated erroneous actions that beginner individual builders make when assembling a frame:

Not all jibs are installed. This is not true. The braces ensure the stability of the wall against wind loads. In addition to the jibs, to withstand the wind, it is necessary to use rigid plates in the outer skin.

• Use a solid beam or boards tightly placed next to each other as corner posts. Such a corner will be cold. Moisture will condense in it and mold will grow.
• Use "black" self-tapping screws for fasteners. They are not strong enough, especially if not enough has been purchased for construction. dry wood. When drying and warping, “black” self-tapping screws can be corny “torn off”. A more durable option is golden and silver-colored self-tapping screws, coated with galvanization or a layer of chromating, phosphating.
• An insufficiently dry tree is used, which shrinks heavily and “tears” the existing knots and connections.
• And another mistake is not to use nails. These proven fasteners are often stronger than any self-tapping screws.

Frame construction - new technology, in which, with seeming simplicity, there are many nuances and features.

When creating a modern frame structure, they use self-tapping screws, nails or screws. This is enough convenient option fasteners. And in ancient times, such wooden structures were created without a single nail or screw. The craftsmen knew how to create a hidden tenon-groove. This mount was very strong. Created several centuries ago, Western European half-timbered houses still live today, because the tenon-groove that the carpenters of that time used is a skill without which it was impossible to build a frame house. Most likely, there were already nails and various staples, but they were not used at that time, due to their extremely high cost. The tenon-groove fastening justifies itself in many ways, because with it the tree is connected to the tree, and this is considered more appropriate than fastening wood to tree with screws or nails. And yet today, self-tapping screws and nails are a popular type of hardware, and today there are almost no craftsmen who master the skill of making an accurate and reliable type of “oblique tooth”, “dovetail”. Although such alternative compounds are quite acceptable and even preferred in our time.
Strength frame structure and its rigidity depends not only on the quality of the connections and the quality of the material itself, but also on the method of fastening, and correctly distributed loads at the design stage. If the connections are made incorrect or overloaded, then soon they will manifest themselves as singing sounds and squeaks. To prevent the structure from loosening, it is necessary to strictly observe the assembly technology and monitor the assembly quality of the frame elements. To prevent corrosion, self-tapping screws must be galvanized or otherwise treated against corrosion. You can additionally dip them in drying oil, primer or some other protective compound during screwing or work well after, although this will be less effective.

In fact, nails are successfully replaced with self-tapping screws. various types. Because they have a wide range of benefits. The main advantage is that they securely fix all the elements. Unlike a nail, a self-tapping screw has a thread. This allows it to be screwed into any material: be it wood, plastic, drywall, plywood or metal. For metal, special self-tapping screws are used, with a stronger structure and smaller threads. In addition, self-tapping screws, with the same length as a nail, have improved qualities in terms of holding strength for pulling out or stretching. Even small screw will hold any material firmly, and most likely will not loosen over time, as can be the case with a nail when assembling furniture. This allows you to successfully use self-tapping screws where nails can ruin appearance. And more importantly, self-tapping screws can be easily removed if necessary, as they have a thread and a slot for unscrewing.

A few tips and tricks when using self-tapping screws and nails in construction

The number of nails used does not yet guarantee the strength of the structure.

You need to arrange nails “wisely”. It is advisable not to hit them on the edge of the board, so as not to split. It is better to hammer nails “at an angle” - this way they hold more securely.

If you need to hammer a nail in a certain place, but there is a risk of splitting the board, first blunt the point, the nail will not push the fibers apart and split the board, but will crush them.

It is desirable to select the length of the nail in such a way that it does not slightly go out of the material to which we nail. Too thin a nail will not hold well. Long - to score for a long time, but it will not be stronger if it comes out or even splits the board.

Where the design "works to tear", instead of nails, it is better to use self-tapping screws of the required diameter. It's more reliable.

Self-tapping screws are also preferable where any vibrations are transmitted to the structure, for example: doors, windows; and also where we carry out wood paneling with any other material: fiberboard, chipboard, plywood, plastic, etc., as well as when attaching to wooden structures, for example: metal wire hangers, flagpoles, etc. In such places, the nails “crawl out” over time, and they have to be finished off, which does not add strength. It is better to immediately replace such a “live” nail with a self-tapping screw or screw.

Self-tapping screws are also used in places that will probably have to be disassembled later, this will facilitate disassembly and will not damage the material being disassembled.

To prevent the self-tapping screw from splitting the wood when screwing, you can pre-drill a hole of the same or smaller diameter.

It is much easier to tighten a self-tapping screw if it is lubricated with soap or dipped in oil.

A drill will help you quickly wrap a lot of self-tapping screws, in the chuck of which a bit or a screwdriver is installed. If possible, use a special screwdriver. Of course, it will be more convenient for them to work. In this case, the assembly speed on self-tapping screws will be the same as on nails.

In chapter, Download documents, instructions, programs there is a document: Connections on nails, screws and screws. Selection of fasteners for wooden housing construction, requirements and test methods.
The standard was prepared by the Association of Wooden Housing Construction within the framework of the adopted program “The General Program of Work on the Regulatory and Technical Support of Production and Application wooden structures". A very detailed document with explanations: what and where to use fasteners, their type and size.

And now another fact: what happened to the self-tapping screws in just a few rainy days.

In 2013, in the summer, the porch of my house was painted. Before painting in the middle of summer, all the boards were removed (fortunately, everything was held on galvanized self-tapping screws). The boards were lightly sanded with a manual electric planer so that burrs did not stick out and the paint lay more evenly. Since the boards completely dried out in a couple of years and they were trimmed, they had to be screwed to new places close to each other, but without much fanaticism. Everything was done quickly without gaps and painted with a covering antiseptic "Vinha", which is used to paint the whole house. What was my surprise when, having arrived at the dacha in the fall (autumn turned out to be extremely rainy), I found that where the boards below were screwed onto one whole beam of the porch frame, the boards were torn off and went beyond the porch by almost 5 cm! Taking into account the fact that only boards are no more than 1.8 m wide, and they were not subjected to direct precipitation (maximum rare slanting rains on a well-painted surface).
Since it was already quite cold, he did not do anything, leaving next year. The first photo below shows what happened to the 4x40 mm galvanized screws: the screws in the six outermost boards (out of a total of twenty) were broken into 3 parts. The first part - the head and body 0.8-1 cm was in the board outside, part of the body about 1-1.5 cm stuck out of the board inside, and about 2 cm remained in the beam of the porch frame, of which only a few pieces turned out, and most failed to catch. Therefore, I had to fasten the boards with self-tapping screws at a slight angle so as not to get into the debris remaining in the timber, Fig. 2.

Over the past decade, screws and self-tapping screws have become so popular that we practically don’t remember about nails. At the same time, in the West, for the most part, only nails are used in frame construction. So which is better, nails or screws?

We did a little test to show one of the main disadvantages of screws, which many people forget about.

So that self-tapping screws or screws made of a metal alloy do not bend when screwing, they are hardened during the manufacturing process. After it, the metal becomes hard, but brittle. This is the main disadvantage of screws and self-tapping screws. But to be precise, only galvanized self-tapping screws (white, yellow) are hardened. Black self-tapping screws are usually made from oxidized C1022 steel, although this is also relatively brittle.

The nails are not hardened, so they hold heavy loads better. If the load is excessively increased, the nail will bend but not break, as opposed to screws or self-tapping screws. That is why they are still used in construction when assembling frames in areas with increased loads. Screws, often, are assigned the role of fastening finishing materials.

Another advantage of nails is that with special nail guns, the process of assembling structures is accelerated at times.

Now a little test. For comparison, we took two screws 6x90 and 4.5x70, two self-tapping screws 4.8x110 and 3.5x55, as well as a small 3x75 nail.

A short video will help you see the difference between them.

It can be seen that hardened self-tapping screws are the most fragile and break almost immediately. Black steel self-tapping screws are more durable, but also do not withstand several bends. But to break a nail, you need to make a couple of dozen sharp bending movements.

This test does not mean that we are campaigning for the use of nails. We just want to show that the choice of fasteners should be treated with due attention. And, of course, there are a lot of places where self-tapping screws will give odds to any nails.

You can often hear the opinion that frame houses are one of the simplest, most rational and inexpensive species building structures. Based on this idea, many developers choose frame technologies for construction, thinking about savings and even about the possibility of building a house on their own. Unfortunately, the idea of ​​simplicity and low cost of frame technologies applies only to those that do not correspond to any building codes and rules for buildings that are built by guest workers and inexperienced do-it-yourselfers. However, the same can be said about the construction of log houses made of wood with your own hands.

Frame technologies really have many advantages, but only in those cases when the house is being built experienced builders from industrially produced components for frame housing construction. An inexperienced or illiterate builder, working with frame technology, can make many more mistakes than when building a house from solid wood or stone materials. Where, when building a house from massive wall materials, only a few technological operations are required, frame technologies will require a much larger number of technological “passages”. At more operations significantly increases the risk of errors, non-compliance with technologies and misuse of materials. Therefore, frame houses built without a project and attracting qualified specialists “at random” or on trust in guest workers can be short-lived, they will soon require overhaul due to unsatisfactory consumer qualities(freezing, wetting of insulation, high heating costs, rotting structural elements, destruction of both individual elements and the entire structure as a whole). Unfortunately, in Russia the list of regulatory construction documentation for design and construction is significantly limited. frame houses. At present, the set of rules of 2002 SP 31-105-2002 “Design and construction of energy-efficient single-family residential buildings with wooden frame, based on the outdated 1998 National Housing Code of Canada.

In this article, we will provide short review the main mistakes and violations of the technology of frame housing construction.

Construction without a project.

This is a universal "general" mistake when choosing any construction technology. However, it is in frame technology the cost of errors can be especially high and lead to cost overruns instead of saving them both due to the use of an excess amount of material (a frame made of large-section timber) and the need for repairs due to insufficient sections of beams, a rare step of their installation, destruction of structural elements due to for unaccounted loads, incorrectly chosen methods of connection in nodes and fastening materials, biological destruction tree due to a violation of steam and moisture removal.

Building from wood natural humidity».

Practically nowhere in civilized countries do they build houses from raw wood, just as before in Russia they never built houses from freshly cut tree trunks. SP 31-105-2002 clause 4.3.1 states: « Bearing structures(frame elements) of houses of this system are made of lumber conifers dried and protected from moisture during storage. Raw wood is only a semi-finished product for the production of building materials. In Russia, sellers and suppliers delicately refer to raw lumber as "natural moisture" wood. Recall that a freshly cut tree has a moisture content of 50-100%. If the tree was rafted on water, then the humidity is 100% or more (the amount of water exceeds the amount of dry matter). "Natural moisture" usually means that the wood has dried out a little during processing and transportation, and contains between 30 and 80% moisture. When drying in the open air, the amount of moisture decreases to 15-20%. The normal equilibrium moisture content of the dried industrial way wood in contact with the atmosphere will have a moisture content of 11-12%. When drying a wet tree, the length of sawn timber is reduced by 3-7%, and the volume of wood by 11-17%. The use of wood of "natural moisture" for the construction of frame houses leads to uncontrolled shrinkage of the tree, which changes the linear dimensions of the structural elements, can lead to deformations, cracking and rupture of wood with the destruction of fasteners. When the wooden frame shrinks, numerous cracks and gaps open, significantly increasing the thermal conductivity of the walls of the frame house, tearing insulating materials preventing the penetration of moisture. When wood shrinks, its density increases, which leads to better vibration and sound transmission.

Construction from lumber without preliminary antiseptic treatment.

Even in the most properly designed frame house, a certain amount of condensate is inevitable on the sections of the media, which are much more in frame houses than in buildings made of massive materials. A moist tree containing polysaccharides in its structure is an excellent nutrient medium for various forms microflora and microfauna, whose representatives are able to destroy the structure of a tree in a short period of time. SP 31-105-2002 (clause 4.3.2) states that all wooden elements located closer than 25 cm from ground level and all wooden elements not made of dry wood are subject to antiseptic treatment.

Incorrect use of materials.

In classical frame technology corner posts frames should not be made from a bar or from three boards knocked down closely - in this case, increased heat loss through "cold corners" is provided. Right " warm corner» is assembled from three vertical posts located in mutually perpendicular planes.

For sheathing the frame, materials capable of bearing loads are used. For example, OSB should be structural and designed specifically for outdoor work.

Insulation of vertical frame walls is permissible only with rigid insulation boards. Backfill and roll insulation due to shrinkage and slipping over time can only be used on horizontal surfaces or in roofs with a slope of up to 1:5. When using economical versions of low density insulation boards, it is recommended to fix each row of boards with spacers between the boards to prevent slipping. This solution increases the cost of the structure, increases the thermal conductivity of the wall, so it is more profitable to use a high-quality more expensive insulation more high density. The size of the openings between the racks of the frame should not exceed the transverse size of the insulation boards - 60 cm. It is even better if the size of the opening is reduced to 59 cm in order to exclude gaps between the racks and the insulation boards. You can not fill the walls with scraps of insulation - there will be many gaps.

Incorrect fastening of materials.

Black self-tapping screws can only be used for fastening sheet materials. The use of black self-tapping screws in a power frame, especially in a frame made of wet wood, can lead to rupture of these unreliable fasteners with low shear strength.

In all cases of assembling the power elements of the frame, galvanized nails, or chrome-plated or brass-plated self-tapping screws with a minimum diameter of 5 mm, are used. Use of perforated steel fasteners without bandaging wooden elements do not always guarantee the design strength of the frame.

Fasteners of beams and other elements of the load-bearing frame must not be fastened to OSB boards, especially with nails.
When nailing sheet elements or screwing them with self-tapping screws, it is unacceptable to sink the cap or head deeper than the plane of the surface of the material. From the point of view of structural strength, the penetration of the head or cap by half the thickness of the material is considered a missing fastener and must be duplicated by a correctly installed self-tapping screw or nail.
Minimum distance from the edge of the sheathing material to the cap or head of the fastener is 10 mm.

Since 2012, the International building code for residential buildings (International building code, paragraph 2308.12.8) requires to prevent shear during an earthquake, wind load, etc. to fix the frame of all newly erected frame buildings to the foundation anchor bolts through clamping plates with a size of at least 7.6 by 7.6 mm with a steel thickness of the plates of at least 5.8 mm. Minimum Diameter bolts or anchors is 12 mm.

Construction of frame houses using "innovative" technologies.

The most widespread technology in the world frame construction provides sequential assembly"platforms" - ceilings with floors, followed by assembling walls on them and placing them in a vertical position. In this case, it is convenient for builders to move along a solid surface, it is convenient to work with materials, any deviations from the design position can be eliminated before the construction of walls begins, and the ceilings themselves rest securely on the underlying structures. For some reason, domestic builders are trying to invent their own options for building a frame house with assembling walls "in place", mixing the technology of building a frame house with half-timbered technology or "pillars and beams" with the device of floors last, which is fraught with the need for insertion or "suspension" floor beams, the need to move on temporary decking, with a high probability of injury when falling from a height.

Errors in working with floor beams of a frame house.

Most mistakes are made with the fastening of beams. It is best to rest the beams on the top trim bearing walls, for runs. It is forbidden to reduce the cross section of the beam by washing down the cutout for joining with the strapping. If it is necessary to join a floor beam with a strapping beam or a beam run, it must be fastened through a backing support bar with nail penetration, or with the help of steel beam supports. The steel support of the beam must have a height equal to the height of the beam and be fastened with nails through all mounting holes. Attaching beams with undersized supports, not punching all mounting holes, fixing with black screws, fixing only on nails without a support bar are errors.

The most common step of floor beams in the world practice of frame housing construction is from 30 to 40 cm. This step of the beams allows you to get strong floors that do not bend under impact load. Overlapping with a step of more than 60 cm is generally not recommended. The minimum thickness of sheet materials for flooring on floor beams is 16 mm for a beam spacing of 40 cm.

Often, bending beams are rallied flat from the boards, and not installed on the edge.

Load bearing capacity floor joists increases if the covering sheet material of the subfloors is additionally glued to the floor beams.
Load bearing capacity frame floors can be increased by rigid cross-beam bracing. Such connections are installed in increments of 120 cm and can serve as a support for internal non-load-bearing partitions (through the subfloor). Also, the cross struts serve as an obstacle to the spread of flame in case of fire.

How to drill holes in floor beams correctly:

I-beams:

Composite H-beams can only be cut or drilled in specific locations per manufacturer's specifications. The upper and lower elements of the I-beams should not be violated. No more than 3 holes are allowed per beam. One hole up to 40 mm in diameter can be drilled in any part of the I-beam, with the exception of the bearing parts. Glued I-beams Wood-OSB-Wood have the designation "Top". At self-manufacturing Beams based on OSB should take into account the direction of the force axis of the material.

Sawn timber floor beams:

Mistakes in working with frame house cladding.

According to foreign building codes and the recommendations of the American Engineering Wood Association (APA), sheathing the frame with OSB boards can be done both vertically and horizontally. However, if the OSB board is sewn along the frame studs, then the force axis (indicated on the OSB panel by arrows and Strength axis) will be parallel to the studs. Such an arrangement of plates is useful only to strengthen the weak racks of the frame, working in compression without significant lateral and tangential loads (which is almost unrealistic in real operating conditions). If the OSB boards are sewn perpendicular to the posts, they reinforce the frame of the building to absorb the tangential and lateral loads that occur when exposed to wind, base movements due to soil movement. Particularly relevant is the horizontal sheathing with OSB panels in frames with no slopes, to give the required structural rigidity. If the OSB sheets are laid across the uprights, then the force axis will be perpendicular to them, and the OSB sheets will withstand a large compressive and tensile load. So, for example, in the domestic joint venture 31-105-2002. "Design and construction of energy-efficient timber-framed single-family residential buildings" provides (table 10-4) the recommended minimum plywood thickness parameters for framing cladding: if the plywood fibers are parallel to the frame studs at a 60 cm step, then the minimum plywood thickness is 11 mm. If the plywood fibers are perpendicular to the posts, then thinner sheets with a thickness of 8 mm can be used. Therefore, it is preferable to sew OSB sheets with the long side not along, but across the racks or rafters. For exterior cladding of one-story frame houses, OSB 9 mm thick can be used. But during construction two-storey houses and any houses in the zones strong winds The minimum thickness of OSB for outer cladding is 12 mm. If the frame house is sheathed with soft fiber boards of the Isoplat type, then the frame structure must have jibs to ensure lateral rigidity of the structure.

Between everyone sheet materials cladding should be left with gaps for thermal expansion of 2-3 mm. If this is not done, then the sheets will “swell” during expansion.
Docking of sheathing sheets is carried out only on racks and crossbars. The sheets are sewn "in a row" in order to ensure greater strength of the load-bearing frame structure with chain ligation. The outer skin must connect the wall frame with the bottom and top trim.

« Pirogi, floors, walls and roofs of a frame house.

The main mistake in the design of frame pies of floors, walls and roofs is the possibility of wetting the insulation from moisture penetration. General rule building walls in heated rooms - the vapor permeability of materials should increase from the inside to the outside. Even in the floor, where the opposite is often done: the vapor barrier is laid on the side of the ground, and the vapor-permeable membrane is laid on the side of the room.
In any insulated cake of a frame house, there must be a continuous layer of vapor barrier from the inside. "Solid layer" really means that the vapor barrier must not have any defects: the sheets must be glued with an overlap along the entire contour to be protected, without exception. For example, almost all builders at the frame assembly stage forget to lay a vapor barrier under the junction of internal partitions to outer walls according to typical connection diagrams of paragraph 7.2.12 of SP 31-105-2002.

Additionally, all gaps between the sheet materials of the skin during wet rooms and on the roof must be glued with waterproofing materials to prevent moisture from getting inside the insulated "pies".
In addition to preventing moisture from entering the insulated cake, moisture should also be removed: outside frame wall must be either sheathed with OSB boards, which are a “smart” vapor-permeable material capable of increasing vapor permeability when the environment is moistened, or protected by a semi-permeable membrane that ensures the removal of moisture from the insulation. Cheap single-layer membranes have unsatisfactory vapor permeability, and require a device air gap between insulation and membrane. Also, cheap single-layer membranes do not protect well from the penetration of moisture from the outside. It is preferable to use expensive superdiffusion membranes, which have really good vapor permeability and can be mounted directly on the insulation.

Frame house ventilation.

Figuratively speaking, the interior space of a properly built frame house is identical inner space thermos: heat loss through the walls is very small, and the transfer of moisture through the walls is most often practically absent (but can be maintained during use). Accordingly, it should be taken out. Without thought it becomes impossible. In a frame house in each room must be installed ventilation valves, or windows must have a micro-ventilation mode or built-in slotted ventilation valves. In the kitchen and in the bathroom should be installed exhaust ventilation. Abroad frame houses for permanent residence practically do not build without supply and exhaust ventilation with a recovery system.

At the end of the article, we give illustrations of the widespread "folk" design of a frame house, in which, upon closer examination, there is not a single correctly executed element.

The typical mistakes that we have described in the article are easily preventable. Before you start building your first frame house or hire builders, study in detail, albeit slightly outdated, but the only set of rules for frame housing construction SP 31-105-2002 available in Russian. Paying attention to all the details and subtleties of the creation of the power frame of the building and ensuring the durability of its operation, you can avoid costly mistakes when building or ordering your frame house.

It seems to me that the love of our frame house builders for self-tapping screws stems from a misunderstanding of the elementary laws of physics and mechanics. It seems to them that if you tighten it tighter, it will be strong and reliable! Well, they screw self-tapping screws wherever they go - they fasten the frames of walls and ceilings with them, mount the slab sheathing and sincerely believe that if you use not hardened, but galvanized screws on the outside, then the house will stand on them for centuries. Oh well...

"Nails! Everyone needs nails!" shouted Krosh in a famous cartoon and was largely right. The North American "CODE" regulates the use of only nails, our SP 31-105-2002 also insists on nails, the Finns and the Swedes out, for some reason they build frame houses using nailers ... Maybe they all don't know that there is such a thing in the world a miracle, like a black Chinese self-tapping screw? =)

However, everything is much more prosaic - the material from which the nail is made implies the possibility of its deformation. That is, in the event of any non-design loads, the nail will bend or stretch without deforming the knocked down parts and without breaking itself.

In the case of a hardened self-tapping screw (and they are all hardened, even galvanized), it turns out that either the parts will be damaged, or the self-tapping screw will simply break. Yes, and the same black self-tapping screws rot only on the way, because they are intended for fixing GKL / GLV where no heavy loads are expected and there is no aggressive effect of moisture on the fastening material.

So, the use of self-tapping screws (screws - one hell of a thing) in the frame of the walls is:

• loss of time for the process (nailing with a nailer is an order of magnitude faster!);
• loss of finances (nails are cheaper than self-tapping screws and bits gradually grind off);
• destruction of fasteners in the future due to corrosion;
• high risk of breakage or destruction of the frame in the event of a strong shear load ( strong wind, For example).

The only place where self-tapping screws can be used is the installation of materials to the floor frame, because. in this case, the self-tapping screw is not affected by shear loads, daily operation does not involve the presence of moisture, and you can save on glue and screw nails.