Connecting two sockets. Connecting sockets with a loop - how we do it. Hidden wiring - pros and cons

Installation of all electrical wiring at home or is an extremely responsible matter, requiring certain knowledge and experience in performing such work. Therefore, such large-scale events are most often entrusted to electricians. But some problems that arise, for example, when conducting cosmetic repairs or simply during the operation of the electrical facilities, you can solve it on your own. Such available operations include the connection of stationary lighting fixtures, installation of new or replacement of failed sockets and switches.

In this publication, we will focus on sockets - they have to be dealt with most often. The saturation of everyday life with useful electrical appliances is constantly growing, and new technology often requires new points of connection. In addition, any socket is not eternal, it is designed for a certain number of plug connections. And sooner or later it develops its resource, begins to sparkle, loosen up, and sometimes completely crumbles “to dust”. And just when carrying out cosmetic repairs, the owners often want to replace all sockets and switches with new ones that are most suitable for the style of the chosen finish.

So, he is considering the question of how to connect the outlet on his own, without calling the wizard.

It would be logical for a person who will undertake the installation of an outlet for the first time to first understand how it works. Its structure is not particularly complex, but nonetheless.

Let's look at the diagram. True, it does not reflect the whole variety of designs of modern sockets, but the principle of the device is approximately the same.

The main role is played by the housing (pos. 1), in which contact groups and terminals are assembled, as well as devices for fixing the socket in the socket of the socket or directly on the wall surface. The case is made of a dielectric material - most often it is plastic, but it can also be ceramic. Sockets with ceramic housings are somewhat more expensive and are considered to be of higher quality. However, they require careful handling during installation - if the socket is accidentally dropped or, for example, the fastening screws are overtightened, the case may break and cannot be restored.

On the front side, the socket is closed with a plastic cover (pos.2). The cover has a figured groove with holes-sockets, which includes the pin contacts of the plug. The lid can be solid or collapsible - often it has an additional decorative frame(pos.3). At correct installation this frame will be firmly pressed against the wall and completely cover the installation site of the outlet. The cover is fixed to the body with a screw (pos. 4). There may be several screws - for example, on double or triple sockets. As a rule, the screws are equipped with a simple stopper from the inside, so that in the unscrewed position they do not fall out of their sockets.

The contact group is located in the body. Since we will only consider single-phase 220 V sockets, there are two such contacts - for connecting zero and phase (pos. 5). The most commonly used spade (lamellar) contacts. Spring ones are considered more reliable for switching and durable, but they are now rarely found on sale.

To connect to the contacts of the wiring suitable for the socket, each of them is equipped with a terminal (pos. 6). There are many varieties of terminals, but conditionally they can be divided into two categories.

- In one (predominant) fixation of the conductor is provided by tightening the screw. screw head in different models sockets, by the way, can be located in different ways - at the back, from the front, on the side or from top to bottom.

A lot of sockets at night are equipped with additional contacts for connecting to a ground loop. Most often in our region there are models with two grounding curved petal contacts located respectively above and below (pos. 7). The metal plate of this PE contact also has its own terminal (pos. 8) for connecting the wire.

To fix the socket in the socket, two variants of the clamps can be used simultaneously or separately.

- Firstly, these are special retainer paws with pointed jagged edges (pos. 9). Each such tab is equipped with a screw (pos. 10), when tightened, it extends to the side and firmly rests against the body of the socket box.

- Secondly, most modern socket boxes also provide for fastening the socket with a screw (self-tapping screw). For these fasteners, there are special lugs (pos. 11) of a characteristic arcuate shape - this makes it possible to slightly correct the position of the socket.

By the way, perhaps not the most typical example of a socket was shown above. overwhelming number modern models they are also equipped with a metal support (pos. 12) - a special plate that greatly simplifies the installation process.

When installed, this caliper rests perfectly against the plane of the wall, that is, it is impossible to make a mistake with the depth of the socket housing. The plate itself will then be completely hidden by a decorative cover.

The caliper is always provided with the lugs already mentioned above for screw fastening to the socket. In addition, there may also be holes in the corners (pos. 13). They are very useful when the socket is installed on a rigid base without a socket at all. For example - on a wall sheathed with clapboard or other panels, provided that there is a small space under the finish, sufficient in depth for the socket housing. In this case, just cut out the window right size, and the socket itself is attached to the surface of the finish through the caliper with four self-tapping screws. Easier nowhere!

As mentioned above, sockets can be single, and even triple, that is, designed to connect several electrical appliances at once. Another approach is when several single sockets connected in parallel are installed for these purposes.

A few words on the types of sockets.

In the recent past, type "C" prevailed - only two contacts, zero and phase. It is still widely used today - it is quite suitable for electrical appliances of small and medium power that do not require mandatory grounding.

This type, by the way, is also not homogeneous. Surely, many have come across that such sockets of the old "Soviet" type do not include plugs of many electrical appliances, since the pins have a larger diameter than the holes. However, now, as it seems, the “Soviet” type is no longer on sale, so the problem becomes insignificant.

Type "F" has the same two sockets for plug pins, but also equipped with grounding contacts. It was this type that was shown in the diagram when the socket device was considered.

Such sockets dominate in our time, as human life is increasingly saturated with a variety of equipment, for the safe operation of which grounding is necessary. However, such an outlet allows you to connect other electrical appliances without any problems. With the exception, perhaps, only of the old forks with a round body rim that does not have figured cutouts.

It is permissible in our conditions to install sockets of type "E". The sockets for phase and zero do not differ from the “F” type, but the ground contact has the form of a protruding pin.

Such sockets are not particularly popular with us. But if you pay attention to the design of the plugs of most modern electrical appliances, you can see that it is suitable for both types, "F" and "E" - it has a special hole with a contact for the pin to enter. But another plug is clearly not suitable, that is, the socket does not differ in versatility. In addition, a 180-degree turn of the plug in the socket is completely excluded, and this sometimes becomes useful during the use of electrical appliances.

Of course, there are many more types of outlets. Here, only three were singled out, since they are used in Russian conditions often.

Sockets also differ in the degree (class) of body protection. This indicator is indicated by the IP index and a two-digit number. The first digit indicates the class of protection against the penetration of solid bodies and dust, the second - about the protection against water.

- For ordinary premises of a house or apartment, the IP22 or IP33 class is quite enough. If the socket is planned to be installed in a children's room, then it is better to purchase a model with a class of at least IP43. A feature of such products is the presence of a cover and special shutters that cover the sockets for the plug pins when the socket is not in use. This will make it difficult for a curious young “researcher” to access current-carrying contacts.

- But for bathrooms, showers, kitchens, models with a class of at least IP44 are purchased - here the humidity is high, and there is a very high probability of water splashing on the outlet.

- IP44 class is also suitable for installation in an unheated basement.

- An even higher class is needed if the socket needs to be installed on the street or, for example, on open balcony. This takes into account both the impact of dust and direct precipitation. So for security reasons, it is recommended to use models with a security class of at least IP55.

Now that general concepts about the design and types of sockets received, you can contact circuit diagrams their connections.

Schemes for connecting sockets to the electrical network

Socket connection schemes are not particularly difficult. But they still need to be considered.

First - a diagram for connecting sockets to a single-phase network, which does not provide a ground loop.

On the diagram, numerical designations show:

1 - common safety coupled machine.

2 - an automatic machine that turns off the phase on the line to which the sockets will be connected.

3 - bus zero.

4 - distribution junction boxes. According to the rules for laying wiring in the house, they should be located exactly above the sockets so that the vertical outlet section goes down. Each outlet (or multiple outlet bank) must have its own junction box.

5 - conventionally shows a hidden or open wiring cable.

Find out from our new article on our portal.

Please note - in accordance with the rules that are followed professional electricians, the phase on the outlet is usually located on the left, zero - on the right. Unfortunately, not everyone does this. Although such installation greatly simplifies the operation of some devices (those where the obligatory position of the phase and zero is fundamentally required), and the diagnostics and maintenance work if there are problems in the network.

Where is the best place to install outlets?

This publication is devoted specifically to connecting sockets, and not to planning their location and wiring rules. These questions are so important that they are given a separate article on our portal. In it, by the way, a lot of attention is paid to the peculiarities of placing sockets in the kitchen, where the maximum “concentration” of large household appliances.

The second scheme is also single sockets, but already of the “F” type, with a connection to the ground loop.

6 - ground connection bus (PE) wires. They are shown in green on the diagram.

However, another version of the connection is also possible, often used, for example, in utility rooms, especially with an open type of wiring. In this case, the ground loop runs from below, along the floor along the perimeter of the walls. And a separate wire rises from it to the outlet. And the eyeliner itself from above is the usual phase and zero. The switching at the socket terminals does not change in any way.

Now - let's slightly increase the connection area of \u200b\u200bthe sockets and see how switching is performed if it is necessary to install a block of two or more pieces.

If the connection goes to a network without a ground loop, then everything is relatively simple. Sockets in this case are connected by a so-called loop. That is, the phase wire approaches the first, from it it is connected with a jumper to the second. Further, from the second jumper goes to the third. Zero contacts of sockets are switched in the same way.

The method, it must be said, is not without drawbacks. For example, if there is insufficient contact of one of the wires, say, on the second outlet, the third one already a priori becomes inoperative. However, this is easily diagnosed, and for the purpose of prevention, it is recommended to tighten the screw terminals annually.

If the design of the terminal in the sockets provides such an opportunity, optimal solution will make connections not with jumpers, but with a solid wire. In a small area, the insulation is removed, the wire is bent into a loop and this loop is clamped in the terminal of the first outlet. Then the insulation section for the second outlet is removed - and so on. There is certainly much more fuss, it is required to foresee the required length of the supply line wires in advance, but the sockets are obtained according to the degree of their performance - they are independent of one another.

It would seem that sockets with a grounding contact can also be connected with a cable in the same way. However, such a connection (using jumpers) is undesirable, since it is not reliable. If the absence of a phase or zero becomes immediately noticeable to users, and measures are taken to restore the socket's performance immediately, then unreliability protective earth may remain undetected for a very long time. And this can pose a very serious threat to the operation of electrical appliances.

By the way, the rules for operating electrical installations directly prohibit the serial connection of a ground wire.

"PUE-7

1.7.144. The connection of each open conductive part of the electrical installation to the neutral protective or protective earth conductor must be carried out using a separate branch. Consistent connection of open conductive parts to the protective conductor is not allowed.

Therefore, it should be done, in extreme cases, as shown above - with a common ground wire and the creation of several sections on it for terminal connection (although this will not be entirely correct).

And best of all - on the ground wire suitable for the first socket box, perform high-quality twisting (unsoldering). And already from it to each socket of the block lead a separate ground wire for individual connection.

Will such a twist fit in the socket of the first outlet? Numerous examples, presented in the photographs on the Internet, convince that it is possible to do this.

It is possible to put a deeper socket for the first outlet - not 40, but 60 mm - it will be much easier to fit the wires there. By the way, if space permits, nothing prevents such twisting (unsoldering) from being performed for a phase with zero - the reliability of the socket block will only benefit from this. Naturally, all connections are carefully insulated, with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. And the twists themselves are very convenient to do using special PPE caps - it turns out quickly, and accurately, and very reliably. Wago terminals are also very convenient for such purposes, but for loaded lines, high-quality twisting will still be more reliable.

Sometimes they do this too - they put one more socket, and it is used as a local mounting box. Then, after switching the entire block, it is closed with a plug, and then - decorative trim walls. In this case, certainly nothing will prevent you from making a reliable high-quality connection to all sockets of the block.

The installation process of the outlet - step by step

In this article, we will not focus on laying wires to the installation site of sockets, mounting boxes and socket boxes. This is a topic for a separate and very detailed consideration, and it has already found coverage on the pages of the portal.

How to independently lay wiring in a house or apartment?

The task is not an easy one, requiring certain knowledge and very high care during the work. In addition, in the course of its implementation, a lot of general construction operations will have to be performed. very detailed about theoretical foundations and all stages of installation are described in a large article-instruction of our portal.

When installing sockets, follow the established color marking of wires. It is customary to switch zero with blue (light blue) wires, and grounding with green-yellow wires. With phase can be various options- brown, black, white, red and others, but in any case - always different from zero and ground.

When installing sockets, and during other electrical installation operations, in any case, the first step is to make sure that the line is completely de-energized. Certain measures are taken to prevent its unauthorized activation - this must be constantly monitored until the end of the work.

Below we will consider several options for installing outlets. All of them, of course, are similar, but they have some differences related to the peculiarities of specific cases.

Installing a Single Outlet

A very common case - it was produced, and it's time to put new sockets. A cable is connected to the socket, which is still inside it in an isolated state.

Illustration
	When pasting the wall with wallpaper, two diagonal cuts at once indicated the location of the socket. This is where the socket will be installed.
	First of all, you need to fully open the socket itself. Fragments of wallpaper around the perimeter are carefully cut with a sharp knife ...
	...and are removed. The action is carried out carefully so as not to accidentally damage the finish in the area that will remain uncovered by the outlet.
	The end of the power cable hidden inside is pulled out.
	Inside the socket after finishing work, a lot of debris, residues of mortar, dust can accumulate. All this needs to be cleaned up.
	After removing large debris, small ones can be quickly cleaned with a vacuum cleaner.
	Everything, the place is prepared - you can proceed to the installation work.
	First of all, if necessary, shorten the cable suitable for the outlet. It is usually assumed that it should protrude beyond the wall surface by 60 ÷ 80 mm.
	Next, it is necessary to remove the outer layer of protective insulation (braid) from the cable. Here it is shown that the master is wielding an ordinary knife. It is possible, of course, but still - not entirely correct, since it is so easy to damage the insulation of the wires. Below, in the following table, a more competent approach to this operation will be shown.
	The braid is removed, freeing the wires. Its remains are carefully cut off and removed so that they do not interfere with work.
	The released wires are immediately bred to the sides, exactly in the order in which they will be connected in the outlet: phase on the left, zero on the right and ground in the center. The ends of the wires (about 25 mm) can be bent down a little at once.
	With the help of an insulation stripper, the ends are exposed - about 10 mm from the edge.
	The ends of the wires are stripped and ready for installation.
	In this example, a socket equipped with self-clamping spring terminals is used. That is, the work is simplified to the limit. The stripped end of the wire is inserted into the terminal hole and simply slips into it until it stops. Switching the socket takes only a few seconds.
	After that, it is necessary to check the reliability of fixation in the terminals of all three wires with a pulling movement. If everything is fine, you can move on.
	The connected wires are slightly bent so that they are located along back side socket housing.
	Here in this form, the socket is ready for installation in the socket socket.
	In this example, the mounting screws in the socket still remain unremoved. Of course, they should be unscrewed. But usually this operation is carried out a little earlier, when cleaning the socket from construction debris.
	The socket housing is inserted into the socket socket and approximately, by eye, is aligned horizontally. Then it is temporarily fixed with self-tapping screws. First on one side...
	... and then with the opposite. The self-tapping screws are not yet tightened.
	The next step is to set the top edge of the outlet strictly horizontally. To do this, a level is applied to the upper edge of the caliper, and the necessary position adjustments are made. Arc-shaped cutouts under the screws make it possible to slightly turn the socket in the right direction.
	Then, without knocking down the set position, the fixing screws are tightened. After that, the screws of the stoppers-legs are also screwed in, which, having diverged to the sides, will rest against the walls of the socket and finally fix the socket.
	You can proceed to the final assembly. The shown outlet model has decorative frame consists of two parts - first it is assembled.
	Then a central cover with a plug socket is inserted into it.
	In this form, they are connected to the body of the installed outlet. The system of grooves and protrusions on these parts will ensure perfect unambiguous alignment - it’s simply impossible to install the cover somehow unevenly.
	It remains only to tighten the fixing screw in the center - it will finally press the cover to the socket housing. True, “fanatical” efforts should not be applied when screwing in, so that the plastic of the cover does not crack.
	Everything, the socket is installed - the control of the correctness of its placement is carried out. If this was the only electrical task, you can turn on the machine and check the performance of the outlet.

Installing a block of two sockets

The situation is similar - after finishing it is necessary to install a block of two single sockets. The master will switch them between themselves with a loop. The negative aspects of this method have already been mentioned above, but very many do just that.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	Even before the start of finishing work, two socket boxes were placed in the right place at a fixed distance from one another. Power cable is routed to the left
	Two single sockets "Legrand" will be installed and closed with one common frame.
	This is the remainder of a three-core cable that was used for hidden wiring. A piece of it will be required for switching sockets among themselves.
	After cleaning the socket boxes from construction debris, you can immediately unscrew the mounting screws from them. After installing the socket boxes, they are usually left in place before finishing so that the holes do not clog with mortar, but now they should be removed.
	Pull out the end of the supplied cable from the socket. When trimming the excess, the master is guided by the “rule of 4 fingers” - this is how much the cable should protrude beyond the wall surface for the convenience of further electrical work.
	The braid is removed from the cable. But here the master first deliberately demonstrates how to do it. When cutting the braid with a knife, there is a high probability of damaging the insulation of the wires located inside.
	This is how bad things can happen. In addition, insulation damage can be almost imperceptible, but once, already during the operation of the outlet, it can play its fatal role.
	To remove the outer insulation of the cable, a special knife with a heel should be used.
	When working with such a tool, the risk of damaging the insulation of the cable wires is completely eliminated.
	The ripped cable sheath is cut off and removed so that it does not take up space in the box and does not interfere with work.
	After that, the ends of the three wires are exposed by about 10 mm. For this, a special tool must also be used - an insulation stripper. Making cuts with a knife is to provoke a break in the conductor. In addition, scratches on the conductor are very unhelpful for high-quality contact when connecting in terminals.
	Stripped ends of the wires in the first socket. Now it is necessary to bring wires into it for switching with a second outlet.
	To do this, take a piece of the same cable that was used for the connection. This is important, because if you do a loop, then only with completely identical wires. The braid is removed to a length from the edge of approximately 200 mm. After that, the wires from the side of the second socket box are pushed into the first one through the channel between them.
	Here's how it will look in practice after pulling the wires.
	The ends of the inserted wires are also stripped of insulation; you can proceed to connecting the first outlet. This model has three screw terminals, but each has two identical sockets for inserting wires.
	In them, wires are wound up in pairs with the same color coding. In the left pair - white (phase), in the central - green-yellow (ground), in the right - blue (zero). After installing each pair, the terminal is immediately tightened tightly with a screwdriver. After tightening all three terminals, the wires at the back are slightly bent down along the socket housing ...
	... and then the socket is carefully inserted into the socket and roughly aligned.
	The socket is not yet fixed with screws - first you need to immediately install the second one. Here it is even easier.
	First, the required length of wires is also measured with “four fingers”, their ends are stripped of insulation.
	Then the wires are inserted in the same order to the socket terminals and tightened with screws.
	After that, the wires are bent along the body in the same way, and the socket is installed in the socket of the socket.
	Now you can provide a preliminary fixation of the sockets with self-tapping screws - two pieces for each, left and right. At the same time, the self-tapping screws are not tightened to the end.
	The next step is to align the outlets horizontally. The master has a special tool for these purposes - miniature levels. Firstly, they are well fixed by magnets to socket supports and do not bind hands, and secondly, they allow alignment with very high accuracy. It is clear that if there are no such levels, you will have to do with the usual ones.
	After the necessary adjustments have been made to the position of the sockets, they are finally fixed. First, the self-tapping screws are tightened to the stop, and then the screws that will open the stop tabs of the sockets.
	After the sockets are set, and after fixing, the correctness of their position is checked again, you can proceed to the final procedures - installing the outer lining and covers. The overall frame is unpacked and tried on.
	Then they are alternately inserted and finally fixed with the screws of the cover.
	Everything, the installation of a double block of sockets is completed.

By the way, often, when you need to have two sockets in a certain place, but there is no desire to mess around with two underlattices and a block assembly, they simply install one double. In fact, its installation is practically no different from the installation of a conventional one - it is simply larger in size. But there is one important nuance which should not be forgotten.

The fact is that in most models, to provide contacts on both connected plugs, two lamellar tires are installed inside the socket - for phase and zero. But sometimes it happens that each of the tires has two terminals - it seems to be for ease of installation. And a fairly common mistake for those who perform such installation for the first time - the phase and zero wires are clamped in the terminals of one bus.

The consequences of such inattention are quite obvious. When the power is turned on, there is an instantaneous short circuit. And it will still be very good if the case is limited to just a burnt or melted outlet. It could be much worse than that.

So attentiveness and accuracy during electrical work must be mobilized to the fullest.

Features of installing sockets on a plasterboard wall

Another option that is often encountered during repairs or an option is that an outlet (one or a block of several) must be installed on a plasterboard partition or on a wall lined with it.

Naturally, this question is thought out in advance, and to the planned installation site even before installation drywall sheets a cable is pulled, enclosed in a special corrugated pipe for safety.

The process of installing sockets, in principle, does not differ much from the options discussed above. Here, the nuance, rather, is the installation of socket boxes.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	For such a task, special sockets for drywall are used. There are several similar models, but they all have one common distinctive feature.
	On both sides of such a socket there are presser feet that move upwards along the groove intended for this when the screw (self-tapping screw) is screwed in. Thus, the paws will press the socket from the back of the drywall sheet.
	The design of the body of the socket box and the paws themselves are different. In this example, the body has the shape of a truncated cone, that is, the legs, when moving up, will also diverge to the sides. In other versions, the shape of the guide groove is made such that the tab, when the screw is rotated, first rotates 90 degrees, and then moves upward in translation. But this does not affect the installation order. Before starting installation, the legs must be in the lowest position.
	In the sockets, they are cut, and then windows are squeezed out to pass the wires. In the first one - from below for cable entry and from the side for a switching channel with a second socket. In the second - only on the side for switching.
	The socket boxes are prepared - you can proceed to the markings on the wall. The location of the outlets, that is, the area where the supply cable is hidden under the drywall, should be known to the owners. In this case, a block of two outlets will be installed, and they, of course, should be placed on the same horizontal line.
	A vertical line is also drawn - this is the axis of the first outlet. At the intersection point, a round window for the socket box will be further drilled.
	The standard distance between the centers of the socket boxes, if they are planned to be assembled into a single block, is 71 mm. This segment breaks off along a horizontal line. Naturally, when marking the centers of the holes, the location of the elements of the frame structure of the wall is always taken into account so as not to get on the racks or lintels.
	Both centers are marked - you can proceed to drilling.
	For this, a special crown with a diameter of 68 mm is used. You can, of course, cut it with a knife or a saw, but there is a very high risk of inadvertently making a mistake, going beyond the boundaries of the cut, and the socket may not have sufficient support for reliable fixation. When drilling special efforts no need to apply - drywall is cut easily. With excessive pressure, the back cardboard coating of the GKL may be damaged. In addition, do not forget that somewhere behind the plasterboard wall there is also a cable that can be damaged if the crown falls uncontrollably deep into the wall due to great effort.
	The first window for the socket is ready. Move on to drilling the second.
	Both sockets for sockets are drilled.
	Now you need to find the cable laid there behind the plasterboard lining ...
	... and gently pull its end out.
	Then the cable is passed through the hole in the bottom of the first socket, and the socket itself is carefully inserted into the cut out socket ...
	... until it stops, so that the side along the outer circumference rests on the surface of the drywall.
	After that, the second socket box is inserted into its socket.
	The socket boxes are trimmed along the vertical axis, and then they are fixed. To do this, turn the screws (or self-tapping screws) clockwise to ensure the movement of the presser feet. On many models (in particular, on the one being demonstrated), this movement is well observed visually. For some, it is imperceptible, and you have to focus on the effort on the screwdriver. In any case, the rotation of the screw is carried out until it is felt that the foot has rested against the drywall. Go to the opposite foot - and bring it to the same position. After that, another half-turn is made on both screws - and that's enough. In no case should you overtighten - the foot can begin to crumble drywall from the inside.
	Similar actions are repeated on the second socket. We can assume that they have been successfully installed.
	Next, the cable sheath is removed. In principle, sockets can also be installed. But it is recommended that this knot is also puttied - this will increase its strength. And, in general, it is better to finally mount the sockets after finishing the finish.
	So, the ends of the wires must be insulated ...
	... and then carefully roll up and hide in the socket. The installation of the outlets themselves, when the final conditions are created for this, is no longer different from the examples discussed above.

* * * * * * *

So, the issues of self-installation of sockets were considered. Of course, the diversity shown by examples options installation - not limited.

If, after reading the article, an inexperienced reader in matters of electrical engineering has unresolved issues, the fear of self-installation has not passed - it’s better not to take it. Call an electrician - it will be more reliable and safer.
But if you decide to do it yourself, then always make sure that the network is completely de-energized before starting work. And after the installation is completed - carefully check the correctness of all connections, the quality of the insulation - and only then it will be possible to carry out a test by turning on the voltage.

At the end of the publication - an interesting video on the same topic:

Video: The nuances of the correct installation of sockets with grounding

Performing routine household duties is greatly facilitated by numerous technical devices and equipment. "Indefatigable workers" illuminate the premises, wash, whip, bake, wash dishes instead of us. However, just buying them is not enough, the equipment needs to be correctly connected, agree.

Remember how many negative emotions are caused by a triggered machine that disconnected the line due to an overload in an extremely wrong moment. A damaged boiler, computer, refrigerator gives quite a bit of pleasure. But the listed troubles can be tritely prevented and generally excluded, in which we are happy to help.

To do this, you just need to find out how the parallel and serial connection of sockets for home appliances is made, in which cases the “loop” and “star” schemes are used. This article will acquaint you with this very useful information.

Today, sockets are connected in two ways: in the first, a separate electrical wiring line is equipped for each point, in the second, several points are connected to one branch at once.

The type of sockets to be installed is closely related to the type of wiring: whether single-phase sockets are used, equipped with or without grounding, or three-phase devices are installed to power devices that operate on a 380-volt network.

overwhelming majority technical devices who need to be connected to the power supply, located or confined to the kitchen and bathroom:

Image gallery

Sockets for powerful consumers, such as electric ovens or boilers, are connected with a separate line. If possible, use whole pieces of cable, devoid of any connections, during installation. Power lines are laid separately from the shield to each point, which somewhat resembles the rays emanating from the star according to the scheme.

If it is necessary to connect each such consumer, the powered point must withstand a rated current of 16 - 32A. For a current with the same indicator, the current at the input is also calculated.

Daisy-chaining is chosen if it is necessary to power electrical outlets of the same group. These groups are formed in accordance with the location of appliances around the house.

Sockets with separate lines are the only right option for servicing powerful household appliances such as a washing machine or electric stove

The method involves the connection of all elements to a common power line of electrical wiring.

In order to nullify the risk of disabling several points at once, the masters recommend including no more than two or three outlets in one system. This point is clearly spelled out in SP 31-110-2003: it is allowed to connect up to three additional electrical receivers with a loop.

A significant "minus" of such a scheme is that if one of the cores is accidentally damaged at the point of contact, all the elements following it stop working.

The only condition is that the total current load does not exceed twice the value of the operating rated current of the first (head) power receiver.

But, in any case, the circuit created in this way is designed for a load whose total indicator does not exceed 16A. If the operating conditions are not observed, there is a high probability of creating emergency situations.

When connecting sockets, it is not at all necessary to use a clean type of wiring. With the right approach, they can be combined, for example, bring the power cable to. And after it, send one cable in the form of a loop, and bring the other separately to the power point of powerful equipment in the house.

The number of power lines laid from the shield depends on how many wiring routes are supposed to be laid.

To connect an electric fireplace with a power of 2 kW, it is worth providing a separate independent outlet, while the iron can be safely powered from points connected by a daisy chain.

Regardless of the type of method chosen, wiring can be done in one of two ways:

open - involves laying wires on the surface of the wall;
closed - involves gouging channels for laying power lines in concrete and brick walls, sampling a channel in wood for laying a cable pulled into a corrugated pipe.

The open version is more convenient and easier with respect to not only installation, but also maintenance and control. But regarding the aesthetic aspect, an open wire is not always appropriate. Yes, and besides, "eats" part usable area: it is impossible to hang a shelf on top of the cable or move furniture close to the wall.

With an open installation method, cable channels or plastic skirting boards are used to protect the PE conductor from mechanical damage and make it more presentable.

The inner space of the majority has partitions between which it is convenient to place wires. Control over the state of the track is carried out through the upper removable part.

Closed variant wiring is convenient in that it eliminates the possibility of accidental damage to the cable, while making it invisible to others.

In order to minimize the need to "unravel" the walls to create a strobe, closed wiring is performed at the stage of construction or repair work until the finishing is completed.

But the “invisibility” of closed wiring can also play a cruel joke when trying to “hammer in a nail”. Therefore, there is an unspoken rule: lay the wires relative to the sockets strictly vertically or horizontally.

Peculiarities of daisy chain installation

As already noted, the daisy chain method is used to connect sockets that are in the same group, which power low-power devices such as a computer, audio equipment ...

This type of connection is more cost-effective and technically simpler. After all, for its implementation there is no need to lay a lot of cables and use additional protection. But it is worth noting that each additional point of the created chain will make it more vulnerable.

For example, we know that the rated current per outlet should not exceed 16A. If you connect such a load to one point, then nothing bad will happen. But when such a load is turned on for at least 2-3 sockets of one line, its total readings will increase, as a result - the supply cable may not withstand.

The key condition for a daisy chain connection is that the cross section of the jumper conductors will correspond to the conductors of the main supply line.

According to the PUE, with a daisy chain connection, it is not allowed to break the PE conductor of the protective ground wire. Its contour in any case should remain inextricable.

The use of one of the technical solutions helps to reduce material costs when connecting a PE conductor to sockets:

Mounting with connectors

This type of connection is chosen if it is necessary to connect sockets that are located almost close to each other.

With a daisy chain connection, the main wire supplied from the power shield goes to the seat of the multi-place socket box. From it, he feeds the first outlet, from which, through its own contacts, power goes to the second outlet, from the second to the third.

All conductor cores: blue for zero "zero", red-brown for "phase" and yellow-green for "ground" - are connected in parallel

When mounting with a loop, the incoming and outgoing cables are connected directly on the contact part of the device. For this reason, masters recommend using models equipped with a flat spring contact.

In extreme cases, samples are suitable, the contacts of which are made in the form of a plate pressed by a bolt. Devices in which an ordinary bolt plays the role of a contact are not at all suitable for this purpose.

One of the mandatory operational requirements when connecting sockets with a loop is the need to reduce the contact resistance in the circuit between the contact terminals of the socket and the contacts of the electrical plug.

To achieve the desired effect, the terminals are given shapes that allow you to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe contacts themselves, as well as the force of their compression. Today, Scotchlok type connectors are often used to mount a protective zero. This type of clip-on connector is equipped with mortise contacts.

To create a branch, the clip-on connector is mounted inside the installation box, placed between the bottom of the device and the socket mechanism

To use a clip connector, you should choose products that provide additional space for its placement.

Through the contact of the first socket, the phase wire of the supply cable and the PE conductor of the loop that goes further to the second socket are connected. On the second contact - neutral wires of the supply cable and a cable to the second outlet. By the same principle, they connect to the third and subsequent outlet, if its presence was provided for by the power wiring diagram.

According to the PUE, clause 1.7.144, in order to connect the open conductive part of the device to a neutral or ground conductor, it is necessary to make a branch in the cavity of the housings of electrical installation products intended for this purpose. These include sockets.

The main task when connecting sockets equipped with grounding is to provide elements throughout the entire line. After all, if the ground contact for some reason burns out in the main power outlet, all other participants in the circuit will lose their protective zero. Therefore, if necessary, a branch of the grounding conductor is used the most reliable type of connection - crimping.

To perform crimping, the cleaned ends of the wires are inserted into the cavity of a special metal sleeve and crimped using manual press tongs

The method involves, in addition to the use of conventional twisting of wires, additional insulation and crimping of their ends with a sleeve. This ensures uninterrupted contact of the chain elements and its high mechanical strength.

Installing an additional junction box

This method involves the installation of sockets connected to the shield of a branch box or a connecting block next to the cable. In this case, the cable branches in the junction box in the area before being led to the socket.

The use of an additional junction box for PE conductors also allows you to connect the grounding contacts in parallel when wiring sockets with a loop

The connections inside the junction box leading to each outlet are most often made by welding. It is recommended to lay the insulated ends of all conductors in junction boxes so that they do not intersect and do not touch each other.

When planning to make new connections from the junction box in the future, at the installation stage it is worth leaving a supply of a cable 15-20 cm long

In both cases, when the phase and zero wires are connected to the sockets, a loop is formed, and a branch is formed from the PE conductor. Therefore, when looping sockets, it is important to observe the polarity of the contacts: remove the zero from the terminal with a zero conductor. Do the same with the phase wire.

Taking into account the number of working electrical appliances, the number of sockets in the room can reach 10 pieces. Using tees and extension cords is not always convenient, and besides, it is dangerous. In this case, the problem is solved by installing socket blocks instead of a single outlet.

The design of the socket block, which includes up to four separate elements, is connected in the same way as a single socket.

The main difference between the overhead frame and the socket block is that each element in it is assembled into a serial loop from one to the other.

When connecting the blocks, the cores of the conductors are connected by any of the methods described. Bare areas are insulated with a heat-shrinkable tube or wrapped with insulating tape.

Parallel connection specifics

A feature of the parallel circuit for connecting sockets, otherwise called a “star”, is a separate connection to the shield of each socket.

The third well-founded name is “boxless”, because. suggests the possibility of abandoning the junction box. The method is actively practiced in European countries, and in our country it is used to provide a separate line of powerful consumers, most often in combination with loop technology.

One of the options for a parallel circuit demonstrates a selection of photos:

Image gallery

Plus "stars" in ensuring the maximum degree of security. A significant advantage lies in creating the ability to control large energy consumers separately, which is a priority for power distribution for, for example. The minus of the scheme lies in the impressive labor costs of the electrician and in the almost threefold increase in cable consumption.

A parallel circuit is also used to connect three-phase power outlets that will power powerful electrical appliances. In this case, the cross section of the conductors supplying such consumers should be at least 2.5 square meters. mm.

For greater reliability, they should have a small current margin. This will make it possible to compensate for the actual deviation from the diameter specified by the manufacturer from their nominal value, which is often the “sin” presented on modern market products. In addition, such a solution will ensure the possibility of equipment operation in overload mode.

This method of installation is beneficial in that the performance of each individual point does not affect the functioning of the other participants in the chain. For household appliances, such a scheme is considered the most stable and safe.

The parallel method of connecting sockets ensures the independence of each power point: no matter how many sockets are present in the circuit, the voltage will remain uniform

The connection of a three-phase socket equipped with grounding is carried out using a separate four-wire wiring. The cable, which includes three phases, ground and zero, goes directly from the shield.

The purpose of the wire is easiest to determine by the color of the insulation:

"phase" - wires with a white tint;
"zero" - the insulation is colored blue;
"grounding" - yellow-green braid.

Grounding is essentially a protective zero. In order for it to remain so, it is necessary to ensure its reliable and permanent connection throughout the entire line.

To connect the wires and connect to the outlet, first shorten their ends. The use of side cutters will allow you to do the job as accurately as possible. The end of each wire is stripped of 15-20 mm from external insulation with a sharp knife.

The wires are connected in the following sequence:

Remove the plastic protective cover from the outlet.
The clamping screws are unscrewed by 5-6 mm. The same manipulations are done with the screw and on the ground terminal.
The stripped ends of the wires are alternately brought into the box, taking into account the position of the input terminals, and placed in the appropriate sockets.
Sockets with laid wires are tightly tightened with screws.
The socket with connected wires is inserted into the wall niche and fixed with side clips.

To obtain a more reliable assembly, some craftsmen roll the bare ends of the strands into a loop or ring so that their diameter matches the size of the legs of the screws.

The scheme is used not only for powering separately located sockets, but also for connecting blocks that include two or more points

After that, each screw is unscrewed in turn, its base is wrapped with a wire ring and tightly tightened.

With all the advantages of the scheme are preserved. The only thing is that the connection process takes a little more time and effort.

Provided that the amount of electricity spent on domestic needs only increases every year, and therefore the requirements for the reliability of sockets will certainly increase, a parallel wiring scheme should still be preferred. Especially when it comes to serious energy consumers.

To power lamps, electric alarm clocks and similar devices, a cable connection option is suitable.

Proper connection of sockets with a loop

All sockets located on the same electrical group have one connection scheme - parallel. But you can "parallel" sockets different ways: connect them in soldering boxes(twisting, terminals, soldering) — 1 . or connect them to each other at the terminals, bypassing these boxes ( daisy chain) — 2 .

Which socket connection to choose. By connecting sockets with a loop, you can significantly save on material - wires, boxes and, accordingly, significantly reduce labor costs. However, at present, the Rules for the Installation of Electrical Installations (PUE) have a clear and unambiguous prohibition on breaking the PE conductor (“earth”).

When, if you change the wiring in your apartment (house) there is nothing special to fear - after all, you do not need to officially commission the facility, but you must admit, it is better to sleep peacefully, knowing that the electrical wiring of your home is in order and meets all regulatory electrical safety requirements.

how correctly make the connection of sockets with a loop. without violating the PUE? There is an alternative: the figure shows the method of such a connection of sockets. The method is quite old, but proven, and for reliability it is better not to be limited to the "ground" wire, but to leave the current-carrying wires - phase and zero - unbroken.

With this connection of sockets the load on the terminals of the first outlet where the power “comes” will be limited only by the power household electrical appliances included in it. This method of connecting sockets prolongs their service life and, most importantly, keeps the PE conductor (“ground”) inseparable.

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Connecting sockets with a loop. Features of connecting sockets with a loop

Schemes for connecting sockets with a loop

Connect sockets with a loop in several ways;

— radial connection or star connection is used when installing electrical wiring in houses and apartments. With this installation of sockets, each socket is connected to a junction box or to an electrical panel by a separate line and they are installed in one place, side by side.

This method is characterized by great reliability and safety, but due to the need for additional cables, it is considered the most expensive. A strobe for this method of parallel connection can be made one wide for all males. If the sockets are designed for heavy loads, then this installation method is necessary;

— ring connection represents the connection of sockets on both sides, that is, on the ring. This type of connection increases the reliability, safety and efficiency of electrical wiring. But in our country this method is practically not used, although it is quite popular abroad;

— connecting sockets with a loop(in parallel) are done in order to reduce the cost of the cable, but in this case, the reliability and safety of the wiring is reduced. With this connection option, it is necessary to provide that the total power of the loads of consumers of the socket loop does not exceed the permissible cable current.

Connecting sockets with a loop

For loop connections, it must be ensured that the total load power of the socket loop does not exceed the permissible cable current. Here, the permissible load per socket is lower than for a single socket with a separate line or a socket connected in a radial way.

Features of installing sockets with a loop

Connecting sockets with a loop has its pros and cons. The downside is that if the wire breaks in the group, subsequent sockets will not work. With a smaller number of outlets in the group, their reliability increases. The only plus can be considered savings and ease of installation of electrical wiring.

Connecting sockets with a loop without breaking the ground by soldering

The connection of sockets with a loop according to the PUE must be without breaking the PE conductor. Grounding is connected to the PE socket terminals only by a branch. This is due to the fact that when the ground conductor breaks, the socket remains without a protective ground. The power of a group of sockets should not be more than 3 kW and is connected to a 16 A machine. If the load of the group exceeds 3 kW, then it is necessary to run a separate line to each outlet.

The order of installation of branches in the socket

Often they connect a group of sockets to one three-core cable and connect them with a loop, that is, in parallel. Parallel connection does not comply with the continuity requirement of the protective earth. Connection by a loop of two PE conductors on one terminal reduces the reliability of the contact.

A loop connects all three conductors in each outlet (phase, zero and ground). Loop connection is made in case of small loads of consumers and under normal operating conditions. They also use a loop if it is necessary to quickly add sockets.

Connection of sockets with a loop without breaking the protective earth PE by crimping

When connecting with a loop, to increase the reliability of contact, the ends of the cores must be bent under the ring and soldered. It is desirable that the terminal has a rectangular washer for tight contact. However, the correct connection of the PE conductor must be continuous and branched.

The ends of the ground wire are connected by crimping, with a branch outlet. The sleeve after crimping is insulated with a special cap. Such a ground connection is made for each socket in the socket. Crimping is considered the most reliable connection and ensures the continuity of the ground wire.

A branch reduces the load on the terminal. Some experts recommend using a branch and crimp connection, not only for grounding, but also for the phase and neutral conductors. There is enough space for laying branches and crimping in modern socket boxes. They make a daisy chain connection by adding one or two outlets, with minor repairs.

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How to connect an outlet?

Features of connecting sockets with a loop

The connection of sockets with a loop is often used when installing electrical wiring in an apartment. This is a fairly common connection method; in essence, it is a backbone connection of consumers.

Connection methods

Currently, there are two main schemes for arranging electrical wiring in an apartment:

Radial connection (sometimes called "star" connection, which should not be confused with the circuit used in three-phase circuits). This technical solution is widely used in apartments and private houses.
country affairs

Its main advantages are simplicity and reliability. The main disadvantage is the high consumption of expensive cable.

Ring scheme. It is practically not used in our country, but it is widespread in some regions. Western Europe. The meaning of such a connection is that the electrical circuit supplying the load is closed in a ring. This achieves the possibility of supplying consumers simultaneously from two sides. The ring scheme significantly increases the efficiency of electrical wiring compared to the traditional radial connection and at the same time is more reliable in relation to the main one.

Wiring diagram

In the case of a radial connection, each socket is allocated a separate line that goes directly to the junction box. Naturally, the reliability of such a scheme is the highest of all non-redundant connections. In order to reduce the consumption of electrical cable required for the installation of electrical wiring in a radial pattern, looping of sockets is often used.

Loop connection can only be used in cases where the total power of consumers, as well as their technical characteristics and operating conditions allow it.

In general, the scheme for connecting a group of sockets with a loop looks like this:

Since this circuit uses socket terminals as places for connecting wires, such a connection has some properties of a series electrical circuit. Namely:

If the wire burns out at the terminal of one of the devices (the vast majority of breaks occur in such places), all the devices following it are inoperative.
Connecting each of the consumers causes a significant increase in current in the wires connecting the sockets to the electrical box.

Thus, it is advisable to use the connection of sockets with a loop in cases where the total power of consumers does not exceed the maximum allowable power of the cable supplying the group of sockets.

Features of mounting a group of sockets with a loop:

According to the requirements of the PUE, the PE conductor should not have breaks. To connect it to the terminals of the electrical installation, separate branches must be used. Incorrect connection of the ground conductor can lead to the fact that if it breaks at one of the outlets, all other devices will also be ungrounded. Since it is impossible to determine the quality of grounding without special measurements or visual inspection of the integrity of the PE conductor, in this case it is not possible to achieve the required level of electrical safety.
To protect consumers fed from a group of outlets, a 16 A circuit breaker must be used. If the total power of the electrical installations supplied exceeds 3 kW, then a separate line must be laid for each device.

Installation of branches in the socket

To fully comply PUE requirements and don't carry too much high costs for laying a separate PE conductor to each outlet, you can make branches directly in the socket. For this, special terminal blocks or crimp sleeves can be used.

The main advantage of terminal blocks is the absence of the need to use special tool for their installation. Such products are installed very quickly and easily. In addition, each of them can be easily dismantled for repair or maintenance of the junctions of the wiring elements.

In turn, the advantages of crimp sleeves include higher quality electrical connection as well as their low price.

When using terminal blocks or crimp sleeves, it is necessary to proceed very carefully, since it will be necessary to compactly arrange all the resulting connections in the socket. Some experts recommend not being limited to making a branch for the ground wire, but connecting the phase and zero to the socket contacts in the same way.

Phase and neutral wires can be connected directly to the socket contacts. The quality of such a connection is largely determined by the type of contact. Standard bolt clamps are often not able to provide sufficient reliability for connecting two wires inserted into them at once. Therefore, terminal blocks must be used for devices intended for daisy chain connection. Another option is to use quality devices equipped with several clamps for each terminal.

The procedure for the installation of a stub connection

Preparation of installation sites for socket boxes and wall chasing for cable laying between sockets.
Laying a cable from the junction box to the first socket, from the first to the second, and so on according to the number of sockets in the loop.
Installation of sockets.
Preparation of branches for connecting a PE conductor, and, if necessary, a neutral and phase wire.
Installation of branches and laying them in the socket.
Connecting the neutral, phase and ground conductors to the corresponding terminals of the device.
Fixing the working part of the product in the mounting box.
Installing the outlet cover.

Thus, the daisy-chaining of sockets can significantly save on the length of electrical cables. In addition, it makes it possible to significantly reduce the volume construction works for electrical wiring. Such a technical solution may be ideal when it becomes necessary to add one or two outlets in the room without major repairs.

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Parallel and serial connection of sockets and switches: how to connect a socket with ground

Do-it-yourself installation and connection of sockets and switches is a simple process that can be performed with certain knowledge. When installing electrical wiring in an apartment, you need to know what a socket connection diagram is. In addition to installing simple single-phase electrical outlets with or without grounding, three-phase electrical outlets are required for individual electrical appliances operating on a 380-volt network. Currently, the most common outlet blocks of several units or a block of sockets and a switch. All units of the socket group are connected only using a parallel connection, it is impossible to connect in series in the block. Of the parallel connections, the most popular is the connection of the outlet with a loop.

Socket and switch connection diagram: loop, series, parallel

Let's look at how to connect an outlet or a block of several units. You can connect electrical outlets in parallel through a junction box or using terminals, this method is also called a daisy chain connection. When connecting electrical outlets with a loop, the cable is connected to the first unit of the block, and the cable for the next block is powered from the last one. Daisy-chaining requires mandatory independent socket outlet disconnects. To do this, the conductors are connected to neutral conductors through terminals or soldering. Zero and phase are connected to the first electrical outlet. A clamp is placed on the ground wire, from which a ground wire is connected to each of the units. To connect the second socket block, you need to connect the phase and working zero from the last unit of the first block, and the ground wire to the compression.

Now consider connecting a conventional single-gang switch.

Socket connection diagram

To do this, we connect the phase wire to the switch using the clamp marked with the English "L" or the arrow "out", connect the zero to the clamp with the arrow "in" or the letter "N". Both wires are securely fastened. Since grounding is not used in the switches, we cut off the excess wire and isolate it.

Another topical question: "How to connect the switch from the outlet"? To do this, it is better to use a block consisting of an electrical outlet and one or more switches. A new cable is laid from the junction box. On one core of the cable, the phase is directed to the switch, and on the other - the working "zero" to the outlet. The rest of the wires pass to the lamps through the switches. From the junction box to the fixtures, 3-core wires are laid (zero, ground and phase).

How to connect a double socket and a triple, three-phase and three-wire (ground)

When connecting a double or triple socket block, the supply wires are connected to different conductive plates. If these are separate electrical outlets, connect them using parallel connection, for example a loop, as described above.

Now let's look at how to connect a grounded socket (three-phase). All three-phase electrical outlets are distinguished by the presence of four contacts for a three-phase plug (the fourth is ground or zero). The socket with grounding is connected using a separate four-wire wiring (three phases, ground and zero), stretched from the electrical panel. The wires are connected to the same contacts on the electrical outlet.

Find out more about connecting outlets

Why is serial connection so rarely used?

If you are thinking about how to connect sockets in series, then you should remember that such a scheme has two unpleasant features:

The voltage in the assembled circuit rises from the first socket to the next. And an increase in voltage, in turn, leads to increased heating of sockets and plugs, as well as to an extra load on electrical appliances.
Since the scheme involves powering each outlet from the previous one, damage to one of them will lead to the failure of all those following it.

It makes sense to use the series connection of sockets in cases where these power points will be used for low-power electrical appliances - small lamps, phone and laptop chargers, hair dryers, etc. For three-phase power sockets in the kitchen, such a scheme can be simply dangerous.

What is the best parallel connection?

Parallel connection of outlets, unlike serial connection, ensures the independence of each power point. The voltage will always be uniform - no matter how many sockets in the circuit participate. And the performance of each individual power point does not affect all the others at all. Such a scheme is the most stable and safe for household appliances, and it has one minus - more wire consumption.

Parallel connection is used not only on free-standing sockets, but also in blocks of two or more pieces. All the advantages of such a scheme in this case are preserved. True, the connection process itself will be more laborious and long.

How to connect the switch and socket?

The wiring diagram for the switch and socket may be different. For example, this is how it will look for a block of sockets and a switch:

From distribution boxes to the block we pull a three- or, if there is no grounding, a two-core cable. We connect the phase, zero, and ground, if any, to the outlet.
Further from the socket, we clamp the phase into the switch terminals.
From the switch, we pull the phase to the lamp and so we connect them.
From distribution boxes to the lamps we lay zero and earth.

And one more scheme. It is not complicated, and is suitable for a switch located separately from the outlet:

From the outlet, the phase is conducted through the switch and connected to the fixtures.
Zero and earth for lamps also stretch from the outlet.

As you can see, the circuits are different, but they have one general rule: the phase must be broken by a switch.

Grounded outlet: what to do if the wiring is two-wire?

Connecting a grounded outlet is not difficult if the wiring in the apartment or house is three-core. But in buildings where the network was divorced many years ago, the wiring, as a rule, is in two cores: phase and zero. In this case, the problem can be solved in two ways:

There is always a switchboard on the landing, with grounding. It is necessary to extend the contact from it to the apartment, and distribute grounding through the bus already throughout the apartment. It is better to use a wire with a copper core.
Performing the so-called "zeroing". Here, zero is connected to the terminals of the ground contact. This method should be used only as a last resort, as there may be problems in the operation of sockets with grounding.

How to connect the socket to the wires?

There is nothing difficult in how to connect the wires to the outlet. First, we prepare the wire: we remove the outer insulation by about 10 cm, and we clean the wires by 1.5 cm. This is done with a special tool or any convenient knife. Remove the protective cover from the socket plastic cover, and then unscrew the clamping screws - so that between their caps and the base of the clamp there is a space of approx. 5 mm. We also unscrew the screw on the ground terminal. The electrical outlet is now ready to be connected. We put the stripped wires - phase, zero and ground, one by one into our socket and tighten them tightly with screws.

There is another option for attaching wires to an outlet. We clean each core by 2 cm and turn the bare horses into rings with such a diameter that the legs of the screws enter them. We unscrew each screw in turn and put the ends of the wires twisted into rings under it. Insert the screw back and tighten tightly. This assembly is more reliable, but takes more time.

How to connect a triple switch?

A triple socket is connected in parallel or in series, they are described above. The triple switch can also be connected in two ways:

From an outlet. Zero and earth on the lamps at the same time come from the socket or from the junction box.
from the junction box. Phase is coming on the switch and connected to the key terminals. Then the cores are returned to the junction box and from there they are bred to the lamps. Zero and earth go from the box to the fixtures directly.

The second method is preferable, since in the first case, if the outlet fails, the switch will also stop working.

How to connect a double outlet if the wiring is done for a single one?

To work, you will need a double socket with a double socket, a piece of a three-core cable (approx. 25 cm) and tools for cutting and stripping wires. The connection is made like this:

We pull the wires into the left socket of the socket.
We cut off a piece of cable, we clean the cores from both ends.
We put the cable into the socket so that its ends come out of both sockets.
In the left nest, we twist the wiring cores with the cable cores in pairs - phase with phase, zero with zero, etc.

A master who knows how to connect an outlet without errors will save residents from defeat electric shock. This is the main thing, but not the only one. An incorrectly connected outlet will not provide adequate power to various devices. It will be inconvenient to use, absolutely unreliable and will not last long.

The information contained in this article can be read quickly. But valuable information about the features of working with a home electrical network will be useful for many years. Sockets, switches, circuit breakers and other fittings from time to time have to be repaired, reinstalled or installed in a new location. It is better to do this in such a way that the safety and reliability of the device is not in doubt.

The main components of the socket are a block assembly, protected from the back by a socket box, with an external one - a decorative box with a fixed screw. The box in most cases consists of a front panel and a frame. The socket box is used only for those sockets that will be installed on the wall, and not in the recess. The deck includes:

frame;
phase and zero contacts, into which the plug is connected;
terminals for connecting electrical wires;
ground contact;
movable or fixed legs for mounting in a box or on a flat surface.

Grounding is not provided for all sockets, in the simplest devices it is not. When screwing the screws, the movable legs are spread apart, being fixed on the walls of the plastic boxes. Double-tongue tabs hold the joint more securely, as they are sharper and penetrate deeper into the plastic.

If the terminals to which it is connected are screw, they should be lubricated before use, for which cold solder is used.

Common types of sockets

Connecting the outlet begins with its correct choice. There are hundreds of types and subspecies of sockets, they all differ from each other both in design and purpose. But there are not so many devices most common in everyday life, GOST 7396.1-89 recommends their use, depending on further conditions operation.

Type C 1a. Socket without grounding. In operating mode, must withstand up to 10A direct current, up to 16A alternating current and voltage up to 250 V. Such a socket can ensure the operation of simple devices that do without grounding;
Type C 2a. This outlet has two grounding prongs on the sides. The operating parameters are the same as those of the first type, but you can already connect to such an outlet electrical appliance high power. We are talking about washing machines, electric ovens, water heaters, water pumps and similar appliances;
Type C 3a. The same device as C 2a, but with pin type grounding;
Type C 5. Sockets of the Soviet period, well suited for equipment left over from the same time. Withstand up to 6A;
Type C6. The so-called euro-sockets with wider holes for the plug and a housing protruding above the wall. Suitable for electrical appliances with the appropriate plug.

Before installing sockets, you should select the cable. For options with grounding, it must be three-wire, without grounding - two-wire. Usually, a core with yellow insulation is intended for grounding, red or brown for phase wire, blue for zero. The cross section of the wire is selected depending on the upcoming load.

Moisture protection and dust protection are designated, for example, IP44. This marking indicates that a device protected from particulate matter larger than 1 mm and against circular splashes.

It is undesirable to install sockets in the bathroom or in the bath, but it is often difficult to do without it. If there is no other way out, you need to pick up a waterproof device equipped with a special cover.

Wiring and socket installation method

Usually, to install an outlet in a concrete wall, it is planned to make a special channel (strobe), drill holes for the socket box, install the wire and the box, and then install the outlet.

Installing sockets in drywall requires similar work, with the only difference being that you will have to make much less effort.

On wooden or adobe walls, the wiring is fixed in an open way, since it is not safe to deepen it from the point of view of the rules fire safety. A socket with a socket box is installed on such a wall. If we are talking about, for example, a steam room, then the installation of the wire must be carried out using special plastic boxes.

Connection type

How to properly connect the socket (sockets), based on the number and characteristics of electrical appliances that will be connected to them? First you need to select the type of connection. There are two of them:

"loop", or serial connection;
"star", or parallel connection.

"Loop" - the connection of each next outlet is actually from the previous one. This applies to zero, phase and ground. In this way it is convenient to assemble in one row, vertical or horizontal, up to five or more outlets. The disadvantage is that it is not recommended to connect powerful equipment to such sockets.

"Star" - with this socket connection scheme, it is connected directly to the junction box. It is done like this:

With the help of special caps, ordinary electrical tape or other devices, the power wire in the junction box is connected to right amount wires leading to sockets;
Each socket receives its wires from a junction box, which allows you to connect devices with high power consumption without risking the socket itself;
To make such a connection, you should choose wires that are smaller in cross section and capabilities than the wire connected to the junction box. For example, if a 25A cable with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm, it is possible to connect wires to 16A with a cross section of 1.5 sq. mm.

At what height to install sockets

The installation height of sockets is determined on the basis of purely practical considerations. User convenience, power cable length for heavy appliances (refrigerator, washing machine) and safety must be considered. Sockets break down from time to time and need to be replaced or repaired. When preparing the installation, you should keep this in mind.

The distance to sockets from the floor is usually from 30 to 80 cm. When installing at a low height, you should take care of the safety of children by choosing devices with special curtains. top point The location of the outlet is not defined by the norms.

But you need to know that there should be at least 15 cm from the floor slab to the socket, and at least 10 cm from the edge of the window opening. atmospheric factors.

Installation process

We have one strict rule, which corresponds to the official safety standard. When performing any work on the network, you must turn off the power supply. Moreover, double control will not be superfluous: after the circuit breaker is turned off, from time to time it is necessary to check the wiring for the presence of current. Scrupulousness in this matter will help to avoid many troubles.

Stage one: preparatory work

The socket tends to be disassembled into parts, and this should be done on preparatory stage. It is necessary to unscrew the housing, which is fastened with a fixed screw. If the outlet has a socket, you need to remove it as well. The bottom line is to gain access to the terminals to which the wires will be attached.

Here it should be clarified that not all sockets are removable. There are also those who are one with the block. In this case, the disassembly process is somewhat simplified.

If the outlet has to be mounted on top of a concrete wall, it is recommended to use plastic dowels. For them, it is necessary to pre-drill the wall according to the diameter of the dowel and the location of the mounting holes on the socket. If we are talking about a wooden wall, it is quite possible to get by with self-tapping screws.

Hidden installation of the outlet is somewhat more complicated. Under the socket box, you will have to drill a hole of the appropriate diameter and depth in a brick or concrete wall. A core drill for concrete, a hammer drill or an impact drill, a chisel and a hammer are useful for work. A round groove is cut with a core drill.

Everything that is inside this groove is removed using the tools mentioned above. The wire leading to the junction box will also have to be hidden under the plaster. To do this, you need to make a groove with a puncher, drill or wall chaser, if any.

It is also necessary to the power cable in the junction box.

Each master chooses his own method, but the most popular are three:

Use of PPE caps. The insulation from the wire should be removed by 3 cm, twisted with the power cable, put on the cap on top and screw it on;
The use of VAGO terminal blocks is more promising, since the process is simplified to the limit, and you can connect the required number of wires by creating several parallel lines. The wire is stripped one and a half centimeters and inserted into the terminal block. When installed correctly, a click is heard;
The same as in the first method, but instead of caps, electrical tape is used.

With all types of connection, it must be ensured that adjacent conductors do not come into contact with the cleaned parts. Otherwise, a short circuit will follow when turned on.

Step two: connecting the wires to the outlet

A double or triple cable must be connected to the socket terminals, arranging it so that all the wiring is separate inside the housing. The connection must be reliable, but contact of the cleaned parts of the conductors must not be allowed.

The overall insulation is removed. If the outlet is not a consignment note, experts recommend leaving up to 20 cm of cable for future use. The total insulation must be removed one and a half centimeters more;
There is nowhere to place a supply of wire in an overhead outlet, so the cable length should not be more than required. It is recommended to lead the general insulation into the socket housing by about half a centimeter if the wire is mounted on the wall without a box;
To connect the wires to the terminals, they must be stripped of insulation by about a centimeter;
The contact of the wire and the terminal should be as large and reliable as possible. It is recommended to twist the cleaned wiring into a ring and then clamp it with a screw to the contact pad. An aluminum or copper ring can be further flattened with a hammer;
The screws are tight, but not too tight. With excessive effort, you can damage the socket, which has a lot of fragile plastic elements.

Step three: connect the outlet

The socket box or socket box in the case of a surface-mounted socket was prepared in the previous steps. It remains only to fix the block, and then screw the decorative box.

The paws are screwed in turn, each by several turns, otherwise a distortion will inevitably occur. In this case, it is necessary to control the position of the block so that the line between the legs remains parallel to the floor line. The block itself should go deep into the box to the desired depth. Otherwise, the decorative box will also be installed unevenly. The paws are screwed to the stop. If the socket box is chosen correctly, the design will hold securely.

When the assembly is completed, it remains only to connect the circuit breakers and check the performance of the outlet. But you should not make a common mistake and turn on some household appliance first. Use a multimeter to check for voltage.

Important! To protect your home from fire, and relatives and friends from electric shock, House master must always be aware of safety regulations while working.

Conclusion

Replacing the outlet with your own hands is carried out in the same way as installing it, but some steps are skipped.

Connecting an outlet is a very simple, but responsible procedure. This article is for those who are doing it for the first or second time. Although it may be of interest to an experienced amateur electrician, for example, with its step-by-step instructions and photographs. If you have any questions or comments, leave them in the comments, I will be happy to answer.

Scheme

Options for connecting sockets: parallel and serial.

The socket can be connected both to the shield and in a row with existing sockets. By connecting it directly to the shield, we free ourselves from some of the problems (this method is called "parallel"). But, as a rule, you have to connect them into one loop (this method is called "serial"), and here you need make sure that the wire from the shield is thick enough. The wire in the example below is rated for up to 15 amps. Wiring diagrams are trivial and we present them here only for general information. The PE ground wire is drawn with a broken line.

In the diagram, the right two sockets are considered connected in parallel. Left sockets - in series. Connecting sockets in a loop (“in series”) is absolutely not scary for connecting lighting fixtures, irons and kettles, drills and fans, refrigerators and vacuum cleaners. If you also connect a TV, computer, video player, printer, Wi-Fi access point, satellite dish receiver to this cable, then you are guaranteed completely unexpected failures and even equipment breakdowns. Sockets are divided into several types: built-in, overhead, outdoor, with and without a grounding contact, with and without shutters, sockets for three-phase network… Wikipedia has an excellent article on this topic, which not every specialist will read in its entirety. Here we will show how to connect a double socket. We connect the socket to the open wiring in the country. In those days when the dacha was being built, there was no talk of any "earth" wires, so we use a simple double socket without a ground contact and without curtains. In our opinion, curtains only complicate life without increasing safety at all. They are needed in that short period of life when you have small children. But for this time it is necessary (even necessary!) To buy special plastic plugs. This is how a double socket looks disassembled on the floor:

Training

The ground wire is always yellow-green. Never use it for other purposes. Phase wire- white, red, brown; zero - blue, black. Unfortunately, some electricians adhere to other traditions. In old Soviet houses, in general, all the wires are white. It will be convenient for you if all sockets have zero and phase wire will be placed in the same way. For example, the neutral wire is always at the bottom or left.

It is customary to place the socket so that the contacts are at the bottom. This makes some sense: in the event of a roof leak, the water flowing down the wires will collect in the form of drops at the bend below and will not immediately reach the live contacts.

We start connecting the outlet with cooking:

tools (screwdriver, indicator screwdriver, long-nose pliers, wire cutters, possibly a crimping tool (crimper, press tongs), building level);
consumables: suitable wires, terminal blocks, possibly sleeves or cable terminals;
flashlight.

Choose the exact location of the outlet. It is impossible to solve it scientifically, only for reasons of convenience and possible movements of the sofa, table, cabinet ... We mark out places for fixing screws. Building level - to help. However, you can get by with a modern smartphone with a suitable downloaded program.

In our case, it is now necessary to cut the wire in the right place. We estimate the length for bending and 1 cm for the terminal. We have a snack. (Measure seven times - cut one!) We clean the wire from the upper braid, We clean the ends of the wires by 1 cm. (It is wrong in the photo - the ends are too short.) It is quite convenient to do this with a clerical knife. You can extend the blade just the thickness of the insulation and do not damage the wire. A special tool, of course, is convenient, but it is necessary only for professionals for daily work.

Wire stripping with a special tool

We bend. It is more convenient to work with a soft stranded wire, and more reliable with a thick single-core wire. The example uses copper wire with a section of 2.5 square millimeters.

Connection

We fasten the socket to the wall, insert the wires into the corresponding sockets.

Next, we clean the ends at the continuation of the train. We bend. Using terminal blocks (or sleeves with a crimping tool) and wires of a suitable size, we extend the cable.

We bend and insert the wires into the corresponding sockets. In each socket, one wire will be to the left of the clamp screw, the other to the right. The most crucial moment: tighten. It is important not to overdo it, but it is even worse not to do it. We check each of the four wires by pulling them and tightening, if necessary, the screws. Do not use indicator screwdriver for these purposes. There are screwdrivers with limited torque, but this is a completely different money. The socket connection is made as on the left side of the diagram.

A rather difficult, but not very responsible operation:

I never manage to do it quickly and beautifully without a special tool. You can use pliers to punch holes in the belt.

Examination

We fasten the outlet cover, checking the horizontal position using the building level. Turn on the main switch. We check first for table lamp, then - on the iron. If at least some sounds are heard from the outlet when the iron is turned on, then we double-check and re-tighten all connections beforehand turn off the main switch!

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