Profile for siding - the basis of installation work. How to choose the right components for siding Ji profile for deck siding

The J-profile got its name because it resembles the letter "J" when cut. When working with siding, many accessories can be replaced with this versatile element. Manufacturers have developed a ji profile for siding as a part that covers the ends of the panels.

Types of J-profile

There are several types of J-profile used for various purposes:

Application features

So:

• The ends of the panels are closed.
• Is being replaced finish profile.
• Finishing the pediments.
• Horizontal cornices are made out.
• Replaced standard corner profiles.
• Plugs are made for external corner profiles.

Panel end trim

When a vertical seam is made that joins two types of finishing material:

• When to do less noticeable seam, the normal profile is installed. To highlight the joint, a wide one is selected.
• J-rail is used as a window, wind and so on.

Note. J-profile frames windows that are located in the same plane with the wall.

Arched openings

Flexible J-bar is designed for finishing round, arched openings and other curly elements:

• Notches are made on the rail (with a smaller radius, notches are made more often).
• The finished part is attached to the bend.

Mounting the pediment

Finishing the pediment is carried out similarly to the installation of ordinary strips:

• The angle of the roof is measured.
• The starting strip is attached.
• The J-profile is installed along the roof slopes.

Note. Under the roof, along the gable slopes, a J-profile is installed so that the top is fixed with a self-tapping screw at the top of the mounting hole, and the rest in increments of 20-30 cm - in the centers.

It plays a role, because the standard finishing profile (at an angle) does not securely fix the siding. The j profile is more often used on gables (see), since the cornice finishing profiles in construction stores are rare.

The left and right profiles are joined at the top of the pediment;

• Reiki overlap each other.
• The front is cut diagonally.
• A gap (6 mm) is left between the slats.

Note. The second J-rail is overlapped by 2 cm if more than one GI profile is required along each gable. Siding on the gable must be cut at a certain angle (for this, the angle of the roof is measured).

Replacing the standard corner profile

This helps to save on self-assembly:

• The negative points include the fact that the tightness of the corner is reduced.
• Then it is recommended to glue it with a piece of rolled waterproofing.

This is a valid option for a budget finish option (the price of a regular corner bar is higher).

Using stubs

In order to close (bottom and top) the outer corner profiles, you need to make a plug:

• A piece of rail is cut off, the length of which is equal to twice the width of the profile.
• A corner is cut in the center of the strip.
• The piece is folded so that it goes around the corner correctly.

Installation of horizontal cornices

To the top of the pier ( wind board) is attached to the J-rail, in which it is installed eaves plank. The soffit panels are joined to it, and the second edge is also included in the j profile. Siding is easy to install.

Soffit installation

Note. Soffits (with and without partial perforation) are installed before the installation of the top row of siding. They are chosen by weather conditions specific region.

So:

• First, the marks are made on the wall parallel to the pediment by a level, and a J-profile is attached to them with self-tapping screws.
• The instructions indicate that when installing soffits, the main goal is to fix the J-profiles in order to place the soffit panel in them.

The elements are fastened strictly against each other:

• On the wall.
• Below the cornice.

Depending on the type of roof overhang (see), there are several options for fixing spotlights:

• Standard J-profile.
• Modified plank.
• Special rail for fixing spotlights.

Let's take a closer look:

• In the first option, along the wall must be located wooden beam(a reliable support, to the bottom of which it is planned to fix the J-profile).

Note. When such a support is not available, it is recommended to install it.

• In the second case, it is necessary to modify the J-rail and mount it directly on the wall.
• To do this, you need to make cuts on the J-profile mounting plate, bend the resulting "tongues" and attach with self-tapping screws.
• At the bottom of the pediment, a regular J-profile is attached (strictly opposite the first one). It is recommended to mount an additional frame.
• Next, you need to measure the distance between the J-profiles, subtract 12 mm (standard expansion margin) and cut off such a soffit. Install it in place, be sure to fix it in the perforated holes.

In the corners, spotlights are joined in several ways:

• Diagonal.
• Straight.

When finishing a building, the j profile is used to join the spotlights (two J-rails are connected back walls). Diagonal docking is more beautiful, but it is more difficult to perform.

Docking Features

To avoid problems, do the following:

• First, two J-rails are installed vertically along the window;
• a J-profile is attached to the top of the window so that it overlaps the side chamfers.
• In its bottom (on the sides), ears are cut out (size 2 cm) and bent down.
• Its edges are cut at an angle of 45º.
• At the top of the side profiles, the bottom is also cut out by 2 cm.
• Their top is cut at an angle of 45º.

Possible mistakes

You should not replace the starting rail with a j profile, siding:

• It does not fix - only supports the panels, even a moderate wind can rip off the finished skin.
• The slat recess collects water.

For an unprepared person, a variety of materials for exterior finish available on modern market, may cause some confusion.

Such advantages often become decisive factors when choosing siding for house cladding. The only issue is the installation technology, which should be discussed in more detail.

If there is no experience finishing works, best solution siding becomes, which has a number of advantages over other types of finishes:

• There is no need for "wet" work (plastering, etc.).
• Restrictions due to weather or temperature conditions set by the employee himself according to his own feelings.
• To install the material does not require any special skills, ease of installation provides the possibility of self-plating at home.
• The result of the work looks very impressive and lasts a very long time.

This article is a step by step installation guide for dummies.

Siding is a sheathing material used for exterior decoration of buildings. It has the shape of oblong narrow strips with a longitudinal relief applied to them, imitating various options wooden building(most often) or, less commonly, masonry.

Strips (panels, lamellas) are equipped with special sides for fastening to a support on one side and for connecting to each other - on the other. The design allows you to collect canvases of any size from them.

Siding is assembled on site, which is convenient and practical. The panels are light in weight, so it is easy to lift and carry them. In principle, it is possible to work alone, but for large areas with long panels need help.

The birthplace of siding is Canada, where it was first produced.

The first samples were wooden, today there are different types material:

• (PVC, acrylic, etc.)

The most common plastic (PVC) and metal types siding with the best performance or the most successful combination of quality and price.

In addition, there are many profile options:

• Timberblock.
• etc.

Mounting direction:

• Horizontal.
• siding.

Some types allow installation in both directions at the request of the owner.

Developers are constantly adding the lineup, so there can be no exhaustive list, the list always remains open.

Siding kit

In addition to panels capable of forming only planes, additional elements (additions) are produced that serve to decorate the joints of different canvases at an angle or in the same plane, for finishing window or doorways etc.

to standard types can be attributed:

• simple and difficult angle(external and internal).
• H-profile.
• J-bar.
• Starting bar.
• Finish plank.
• Platband.
• Soffit.
• Circumferential profile.

All additional elements are fully consistent with the main panels in terms of material type, color or type of protective coating.

Attention! Sometimes, as a decoration, the extensions of another are used, contrasting color, which gives the skin an elegant and original look.

The choice of crates - which is better, wood or metal?

Lathing is a system of planks arranged in a certain order perpendicular to the direction of the panels and serving as a support for them. As a material for the crate, it is customary to use wooden blocks or metal drywall guides.

Disputes about that have been heard from the very first days of using the skin. Wooden planks have low thermal conductivity, while metal planks conduct heat very well and need to be insulated.

At the same time, wooden parts there is a common disease - they are subject to warping, deformation during shrinkage and decay. The metal profile does not create such problems; it is protected from corrosion by a layer of galvanizing.

Another problem with wooden bars is curvature. Picking a perfectly straight piece from a stack of timber is a difficult task, as wood is highly susceptible to warping or screwing. The metal profile is almost perfectly straight.

Thus more good option to create the crate, a metal profile is presented, but the cavity formed by it should be taken into account and filled in parallel with the installation of the insulation.

Installation of the selected crate

Installation of the crate begins with the installation of extreme strips (if you plan to install vertical siding, then the upper and lower ones). They are attached to the wall in the corners, the position is checked by a plumb line. Then a cord is pulled between the extreme strips (at least two), which serves to check the position of the intermediate strips of the crate and ensure the plane.

Intermediate strips are installed with a step that allows you to tightly lay insulation boards between them. To ensure a plane, pieces of wood, plywood, etc. should be placed under them in the right places.(for wooden purlins) or adjust the height metal profile above the plane of the wall when using a direct (U-shaped) drywall hanger.

After installing the first layer of planks and carrying out intermediate operations, a counter-lattice is installed, which will directly serve as a support for the siding. It is installed perpendicular to the planks of the first layer (and, accordingly, to the siding panels), with a step that provides optimal fastening of the sheathing (40-60 cm, in some cases - 30-40 cm).

The control grill performs additional function providing a ventilation gap between the casing and the wall cake, which ensures the removal of steam a.

NOTE!

If you are not planning to install outer insulation, then mounted immediately carrier layer battens (perpendicular to siding panels).

Warming and waterproofing

During the installation of the crate, external wall insulation can be performed. As a heater, a material with a vapor permeability higher than that of the wall material is selected.. This moment is very important, otherwise water (condensate) will accumulate on the border of the two materials, which will sooner or later cause the destruction of the wall.

Therefore, the most preferred insulation will be slab mineral wool, which freely passes water vapor. To cut off the ingress of moisture from the outside, a layer of hydroprotection should be installed.. This is done at the stage of finishing the installation of the first layer of the crate and insulation.

A layer of a waterproof membrane is installed on top, a material that facilitates the removal of steam, but prevents the ingress of moisture from the outside. The counter-lattice is installed on top of the waterproofing layer.

Installation of the starting bar (J profiles)

The starting bar is the support for the bottom row of siding panels. To install it, you need to draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the house, which is 40 mm above the intended bottom edge of the panels. Then starting bar is applied with the upper edge to this line and fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate.

CAREFULLY!

Self-tapping screws should not be tightened tightly; a small gap should be left for the bar to move freely. The self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the elongated holes, so that during temperature shifts the part can move and compensate for dimensional changes without deforming the skin plane. This rule applies to all siding elements.

The next bar is not fastened closely, but at a distance of 6 mm from the previous one to compensate for thermal expansion.

How is siding installed?

The siding panel is inserted with its lower edge into the lock of the starting bar, snapped into it, and the upper edge is fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate. The following panels are attached in a similar way, the skin "grows" from the bottom up (or sideways if vertical type siding).

Attention! In some cases, top-down installation is used. It is believed that this option is less successful due to the possibility of rainwater penetrating into the lining space, but in practice no problems have been found.

Installation of internal corner strips

The installation of the corners is carried out before the installation of the main panels, immediately after fixing the starting bar. The inner corner profile is fastened with the lower edge at the level of the starting bar, the density of the self-tapping screws is recommended to be 25-30 cm.

If the starting bar prevents the profile from being positioned in the right place, the nail strips should be cut from the corner profile to a length equal to the width of the starting profile plus an expansion gap.

If necessary, increase the corner strip, cut off the top nail strips by 30 mm and overlap the top one over the bottom one for proper water flow. The overlap is not more than 25 mm, so that the temperature gap is observed.

Can be issued corner connection using a J-bar, which is cheaper than an angle bar. This can be done with one plank, when it is tightly adjacent to the outer edge of the row of panels on one side, and the panels on the second side are installed in it.

The second option is to use two planks on each side of the corner, while there is a danger of water penetrating into the gap between the planks, since the absolute tightness of the connection cannot be achieved here, in addition, temperature gaps are necessary in any case.

Installation of external corner strips

External corner strips are installed in a similar way, adjusted for the element's reverse geometry. The same method of overlapping, temperature gaps are required, etc. As a replacement for a complex corner, you can use two J-bars located at the corners close to each other.

For outer corners, a simpler design method is possible - using a simple corner, which is installed on top of the panels. In this case, the siding is installed first without a corner, so that the junction of the planes is the most accurate, after which a simple corner is screwed on top. Often this option is the most preferable, because it is simpler and for unprepared people, this option seems to be optimal.

How to lengthen siding strips

If it is necessary to end-join the panels, an H-profile or a simple overlap joint can be used. The size of the overlap is 25 cm, for its implementation it is necessary to cut off the nail strip from the top and part of the lock from the bottom from one panel to the length of the overlap and plus a temperature gap of 12 mm. Overlapping is best done at random - in each row of panels on different places so as not to weaken the entire canvas.

H-profile installation

Installation of the H-profile is carried out simultaneously with the installation corner strips(immediately after the start line). The same rules apply as for corner profiles - trimming nail strips for joints and mandatory temperature gaps. The use of the H-profile makes the longitudinal joining of panels more aesthetic, allows you to immediately cut to length right amount panels for this area.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

It starts immediately after the installation of the starting strip and the corner and H-profiles. Siding can be immediately cut to the desired length, not forgetting the need to leave temperature gaps, which for panels are 12 mm.

The starting bar has a lock, the same as the panels. The first lower strip is inserted into it until it is completely connected and fastened along the upper nail strip with self-tapping screws.

The usual rules for siding apply - the self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the oblong hole and loosely fixes the part, leaving room for free play. Next panel attached in the same way. By itself, the process of creating a plane is simple and does not require special knowledge, except for those indicated.

Every 3 rows, a horizontal check is made and measures are taken to eliminate distortions if they are found.

Loose connections or other causes may interfere with correct position panels, causing slight distortion. If you do not make constant control, then by the end of the installation, the changes may become noticeable and the whole work will be spoiled. Therefore, periodic monitoring and correction of the accuracy of the location of the lamellas to the horizontal is necessary.

How to siding around windows and doorways

They are made in almost the same ways, the only difference is the presence of rain tides on window openings. The method of tying the opening depends on the depth of planting the block in the plane of the wall.

For the design of openings that are in the same plane with the wall, platbands are used. They have grooves for the end placement of the siding, so the installation of the trim is done before installing the main panels.

If the openings have a depth of up to 20 cm, then a J-bar is used. It is installed on top finished panels, on the window frame around the perimeter it is necessary to fix the finishing bar.

For large depths of openings, sets of the same siding panels are used, cut off taking into account the temperature gap along the length of the slope and recruited according to the usual principle. A universal bar is installed along the perimeter of the window block, and a complex angle is mounted on the outer junction of the planes. In this case, it is also necessary to install extensions before mounting the main panels.

To finish the slopes, it is necessary to first install the crate on them, which is usually done during the construction of the main one, since the openings need to be insulated along with the plane of the walls. Regardless of the angle of the slope, the lathing of the openings is set perpendicular to the main one, and the angle is provided by the position of the finishing or universal strips.

Siding finish strip

The finishing bar forms the upper (final) edge of the last panel and fixes its position. installation is carried out almost simultaneously with the top panel. The plank is fastened strictly horizontally at the desired height, the nail plank on the last panel is cut off.

The panel with a cut edge, on which the locking profile remains, is inserted into the slot of the finishing bar and snaps into it. The shape of the profiles is such that the size of the required gap is observed, the lock securely fixes the panel in the plane of the leaf.

NOTE!

For correct installation the finishing strip and the last panel require an exact calculation made in advance, or the possibility of some level discrepancy if a separate pediment sheathing is planned.

Gable siding installation

Either in the same way as the facade, or using a vertical arrangement of siding panels in contrast to the main canvas. It will require a fairly accurate trim in length and at an angle.

A feature of the design is the need to provide a temperature gap in combination with trimming panels at an angle, at which errors are possible, so careful measurements will be required. It is recommended to start installation from the rear sides of the house, so that before moving to front side got some experience.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to install siding:

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself siding installation is a simple and quite affordable procedure that you can do yourself. The main condition is the looseness of fastening parts and compliance with temperature gaps, all other subtleties are comprehended intuitively along the way. To successfully complete the work, you should abandon the haste and act deliberately, then the result will become the pride of the owner of the house.

In contact with

Today the situation in the market of budget finishing materials for facades is such that the most popular and in demand is vinyl siding. The popularity of this material is due to the availability, relative ease of installation that does not require highly specialized knowledge and tools, the absence of "wet" processes, which allows, if necessary, to carry out work in the winter.

Various appearance panels: “shipboard”, “herringbone”, “log”, “shingles”, “scales”, vertical siding with flashings or "board and plank" and a rich range of colors allow you to decorate the facades of buildings with a wide variety of architecture.

In order to perform high-quality finishing of the facade, ordinary panels alone are not enough. Manufacturers have developed a system of mounting accessories and additional parts, thanks to which it is possible to join panels on the plane and in the corners, finish window and door openings, including arched ones, include cornice strips and moldings in the wall decoration, perform roof hemming.

It is not easy to sort out the nomenclature of accessories with a swoop. In this article, we will consider in which cases one of the most versatile elements for installing siding is used - the J-profile.

J-profile - what is it?

J-profile - a profile that looks like latin letter"J", hence its name. This is a universal element, which, if necessary, can replace almost all other accessories. Although it was developed by manufacturers as an element that serves to close the ends of ordinary wall panels on the side. The photo shows what this profile looks like.

There are several varieties of J-profile, depending on the type, different applications are expected:

1. Normal J-profile. At different manufacturers dimensions may vary slightly, but in general, the universal J-profile has a heel width of 23 mm and a height of 46 mm. The internal width of the heel perfectly matches the profile thickness of the siding panel.
2. J-profile for arched openings. There are notches on the profile shelf, along which cuts can be made, allowing the profile to be bent along a curved path. Used for round and arched windows, doorways, and other complex elements.
3. Wide J-profile. The dimensions of the wide profile also vary. Usually it has the same width as a simple one, and a height of 85-91 mm. The height of the front wall is 65 mm. A wide profile is also called a platband and is used to decorate door and window openings, although considering standard sizes thickness, it can be used in other cases.

In what cases can I use the J-profile

As mentioned above, there are many areas of application for the J-profile when installing siding. What is it for?

1. For overlapping the ends of siding panels. Any vertical cuts are covered with a J-profile: around windows, doors, if there is a vertical seam between two types of finishing materials. If the seam needs to be made less noticeable, use a regular profile, and if, on the contrary, it is necessary to emphasize its decorative effect, choose a wide one.
2. as a finishing profile. The regular finishing profile is similar in shape to the J-profile, therefore, it can be used.
3. To complete the cladding of the gables. On the sloping edges of the gable under the roof, it is the J-profile that is used as the finishing strip, because the finishing profile in the inclined position does not fix the siding panels. Of course, there are special eaves finishing strips, but they are rarely found in the assortment of hardware stores.
4. For the design of horizontal cornices. A profile is attached to the upper part of the prichelina (windboard), a cornice strip is inserted into it, with which soffit panels are joined. Their second side also ends with a J-profile.
5. Instead of regular corner profiles. The corner profile is replaced by two "J" shaped profiles. For budget way finishes are quite acceptable.
6. For the manufacture of a cap for an external corner profile. If it is necessary to close the corner profile from below or from above: cut off a piece equal to two corner widths, then cut a corner in the middle of the strip and fold it so that the profile goes around the corner of the house. How to do this is shown in the photo. There are cases in which using the J-profile is a blunder.

Cannot be replaced by J-profile start profile; Because it does not fasten, but only holds the panel. Already with a moderate wind, the entire skin can be torn off. The second reason why you should not use it as a starting profile is that water accumulates in the recess turned up.

Do not use two J-profiles instead of an H-profile to join siding panels. Dirt gets clogged into the gap between two profiles turned back to each other and water flows in.

A little about color

Additional accessories are available in the same color scheme as the siding panels. Some use facade design options using contrasting trim details, such as Brown. Although, from a design point of view, this is quite an interesting move, but it should be remembered that dark PVC elements heat up more in the sun and can warp.

If you plan to mount the siding yourself, then the manufacturer's booklets contain detailed description how and in what cases certain additional details are used.

Siding has become one of the most popular types of house cladding today. For its fastening to each other, a j profile for siding is more often used. It is necessary to figure out why this docking material is so good, how and where it is used, and also in what places it is better not to put it.

What is j profile

If you look at such siding products, then almost all of them resemble a letter. English alphabet. There are H, F and j-profiles. All of them have a special purpose and places of application when facing a house. The ji option has become one of the main ones, since in addition to the main attachment areas - windows, doors, roof, it can be used almost everywhere. J profile is of three types:

1. Regular - measures 46mm high and 23mm heel width.
2. Arched - the dimensions are the same as the previous one, but there are notches on it. Applicable for full decoration round windows and one side and doors.
3. Wide - the heel remains the same as a regular one, and the height varies from 85 to 91 mm.

Areas of application j profile

The main area for attaching profiles of this type is the cladding of windows, doors and corners of the house. In order to block the end parts of the siding panels. They are also used as a finishing profile. It is necessary to install it under the sloped roof slopes, but it has one significant drawback, it does not fix the siding panels, while the j option does an excellent job with this. There are special profiles for the corners of the house, but they are much more expensive, so most craftsmen use more a budget option, replacing them with j type.

The only place you definitely shouldn't mount this species- this is the starting level, since water accumulates in the recess or heel in rainy weather, and the second reason is that this option is considered supportive, not fixing. If the wind blows, then the entire structure can be partially or completely torn off.

In order for the cladding of the house to look like a single whole, then you need to choose the color of the profile in accordance with the color of the siding itself. Manufacturers provide a wide range and good color scheme all necessary materials and fasteners.

Do-it-yourself home decoration

Professionals in the field of building cladding will get the job done much faster than a simple layman, but it's so interesting to try your hand at all areas of construction, especially if the house was built by yourself.

Siding installation begins with preparatory phase, namely cleaning the walls from overhanging elements. Everything needs to be removed drainpipes, platbands, shutters. Then the exact markup is made according to building level and with the help of a thin beam, the crate of the building is made. To wooden house they are fastened with self-tapping screws, to brick or stone using a perforator using dowels.

After that, the rest are attached - in the corners and for cashing doors and windows, you must set the j option. At the same time, it is necessary to leave a small distance to the lower and upper edges of the building, since the profiles can be cooled or heated and either shrink or expand due to temperature changes. If the latter occurs and the product rests on a hard surface, then from this it can crack and burst, and this will lead to deformation of the entire lining. It is better to fasten the profile to the wooden lining with press washers, since when using nails, a hammer can also damage the material. They should not be twisted a little so that the gap allows the product to move easily when the temperature changes.

The correct installation of j profiles for doors and windows is as follows: first, the vertical strips are attached and only after the horizontal ones. From two ends top material bends and lies on the vertical.

All preparatory work completed and only now begins the fastening of the siding panels. First, the bottom one, which will close the start profile, and then the subsequent ones. They are inserted into the products and securely snap into place, and are also fixed with press washers. One of them is pushed into the oval slots of the panel along its center, which is also not screwed in, as in the case of attaching profiles.

The j type is mounted under the roof slopes, and the starting one is mounted on the eaves. Work continues, as with the facing of the house itself. The panels can be overlapped, but it is better to use the H profile.

The use of siding of different textures

Of course, you can cover the whole house with the same material, but there is such a view as alpha siding. This type is more durable and is used on the lower part of the building. The alpha profile will close any foundation, with the only difference being that with a tape crate it is attached to the concrete itself, and if the house is on piles, then you will have to make a hinged crate. The process of decorating, like two drops of water, is similar to the facing of the house itself. The only thing that is needed, in addition to cleaning the foundation itself, will have to do the same with the surface of the land.

For more beautiful design use different textures. If the whole house is finished with ordinary, one-color material, then the foundation can be distinguished by siding under natural stone or brick. The old, worn-out tree looks good too. It is even impossible to distinguish a real stone from a siding for this material in the photo.

When facing a house, for its greater attractiveness, you can use one product, but different colors or two, for example, a stone and a board.

Conclusion on the topic

With the right and quality installation all components and fixtures, the cladding will last a long time, and the annual process of painting the house will be a thing of the past by about 30 years. Any kind of siding only needs to be rinsed with a water jet from a hose. A good pressure will remove the dirt that has settled over the year and give the house its original look.