Installation of wind board siding instructions. Do-it-yourself siding installation. What is needed for wall cladding with siding

To give the building a stylish aesthetic appearance, such finishing material as siding is becoming popular. For its installation, you can, of course, use the services professional builders. However, the price of the services of construction companies is quite high. Therefore, having the right tool, installation siding can be done by hand. The owner of a private house or cottage, this is especially true.

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Necessary power tool

The process of finishing the facade of any task with siding will facilitate the presence of the following tools:

Perforator.
Hacksaw and scissors for metal
Cordless drill (screwdriver).
Building level (length - 2 m).
Marker or pencil for marking.
Roulette, at least 5 meters long.
Rope.
Building corner.
Electric carry.
Punch.

Of course, it is not enough to have the necessary tool, you need to be able to use it correctly. Below step-by-step instruction DIY siding on the facade of the house will help you avoid most mistakes. However, before starting facing works you should understand what siding is and what materials it is made of.

Siding and its varieties

It is no secret that the quality of any finishing works, including the installation of siding will depend on the material used. Siding is a sheathing material made in the form of lamellas (plates) or slats. The plates are used to finish the walls and facade of the house, and basement siding is used on the lower floors. Facing material of this type is made from such raw materials as:

Plastic. It is based on acrylic and vinyl polymers. The popularity of such material is difficult to overestimate. Despite the low price, it has a number of advantages. Such siding will not rot, because. it is resistant to moisture, it does not crack, it is resistant to fire. plastic siding It can be used both for finishing the house from the outside and from the inside. The disadvantage of this material is the low resistance to mechanical damage.
Metal siding. As a rule, galvanized iron or aluminum is used for manufacturing. Such sheathing material has maximum resistance to fire and deformation. cons metal siding is its weight, and as a result, a more labor-intensive installation. Moreover, in case it polymer coating broken, the siding will be susceptible to corrosion. Therefore, timber sheathing wooden house metal siding requires special care. The condition of the metal coating should be checked regularly.

Wood siding. Finished with wooden siding on the outside of the house are quite rare. Such sheathing material is not as durable as metal, requires constant care. Wood siding also has a very high price. However, all its shortcomings are offset by excellent thermal insulation, aesthetic appearance, soundproofing, and moisture resistance. Remember that for wood siding open fire is extremely dangerous.
Fiber cement siding. This material has all the above advantages. It is absolutely resistant to fire, mold, moisture. However, it also has a solid weight, respectively, its installation will be difficult. For example, if plastic or metal siding is mounted using a tongue-and-groove method, then fiber cement siding is only overlapped and only using special fasteners. Basement siding made from such material is in demand.

Finishing the facade and walls of the house with do-it-yourself siding is a simple, but very painstaking work. Getting started, calculate the amount of material required. Do not forget that siding in the form of rails is used for the basement, and in the form of panels for walls and facades.

preliminary calculations. Preparatory work

The approximate amount of siding required for finishing the house is determined based on the area of the walls, facade and other elements outside the house. In other words, the area of the walls and facade of the building is divided by the length of the siding panel. Accurate result can be obtained using the sketch of the building. Finishing long wall surfaces with siding will require butt joints, this will require an H-profile. Please note that joints made in different places, spoil appearance Houses. A high-quality sketch of the facade of the house allows you to calculate the installation of siding with your own hands with the least number of connections, while maintaining an acceptable cost.

Before installing siding with your own hands, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work to prepare the walls outside the house. To do this, it will be necessary to remove dust and dirt, lime and other residues from the sheathed surfaces. finishing materials etc. If plaster has been applied to the facade and walls of the house, which has become of poor quality, then it will need to be dismantled.

In addition, it will be necessary to remove from the walls all external elements that interfere with the installation of siding, these include gutters, cornices, window sills. For wooden building It will not be superfluous to check the walls for the presence of fungus and mold.

If laying is planned for siding thermal insulation materials, would need vapor barrier film. It is used to protect the insulation from condensation.

First stage. frame

Installation of siding is carried out on a frame prepared in advance by one's own hands. For its manufacture, metal or wooden materials are used. It is worth noting that the metal crate has the advantage of durability and strength. Besides, metal carcass Better grip on uneven surfaces. Beat stun defects with wooden frame much more difficult.

The profile is attached to the wall with hangers, and the distance between them should not exceed half a meter. This installation method allows you to set profiles using building level, despite the unevenness and imperfections of the walls.

If finances are limited or installation metal crate impractical, use a frame made of wood.

For such a crate, it is forbidden to use material that exfoliates, is deformed, has traces of mold or rot. This is especially true for a wooden log house.

The frame is mounted on even, prepared for this, walls. Siding panels are mounted on the facade of the house or its walls horizontally. Accordingly, the lathing bars or metal profiles are installed vertically. The guides are attached to the wall of a wooden house with nails or self-tapping screws. If the base is made of concrete, monolith or brick, use a perforator and dowels. Each rail or profile is leveled.

In the event that, together with the cladding work, it is planned that the external thermal insulation of the walls of the siding crate is installed after all work with insulating material. In this case, two frames will be mounted: for siding and for thermal insulation. It is important that the laths of the crate are parallel to each other.

How to work with siding

Regardless of the material from which the building is built, after preliminary work, do-it-yourself siding installation is carried out in the same sequence.

Finishing work on a brick, monolithic, timber, any house begins with the installation launch pad and its fixation with nails or screws. The next step is to mount the H-rail, if it is provided, and install the corner fasteners. window blocks and doorways are formed using the J profile.

Starting profiles and guides must be installed flawlessly, and the step-by-step instructions serve as a guide for beginner finishers. The first steps look like this:

Initially, you need to use the level to find the lowest point on the frame, and step back from it up 5 centimeters, make a mark. This is done with a screw or a nail.
Consistently, moving around the house, we screw in the screws as marks. Starting profiles will be installed in these places. Do not forget about the marks in the corners of the building.
We stretch the construction cord between the corner screws.
We put on the rails of the frame the borders of the profiles installed at the corners. To do this, we apply the profile to the crate, and, using a pencil or marker, put marks on its edges.
Adhering to the cord, we make a horizontal gap of six millimeters from the corner profiles and mount the starting guide to the profile or battens of the crate.

Remember to leave a gap of 10 millimeters between the profiles.

This is necessary to compensate for temperature differences. A gap of six millimeters should not be made if you remove part of the nail strips in advance, and they will not rest against the J profile during temperature differences. The initial profiles should only be mounted horizontally. Don't waste your time on this. Otherwise, it will be extremely difficult to fix the siding, which will appear later on.

External corner profiles

Do-it-yourself installation of these elements is carried out in the following order:

We mark the spotlights, it is important for us to know where their edges will be.
We take the guide and apply it to the crate, leave a gap of three millimeters between it and the soffit (roof). Then we fix the guide with self-tapping screws, but its lower edge should be six millimeters lower start profile.
We check the vertical installation. In the absence of defects, we fix the bottom and other places. Do not abuse the fasteners in the corners.

If the height of the building exceeds three meters, the profile will lie one on one. To do this, the upper profile will need to be trimmed. This is necessary so that there is a gap of nine millimeters between the connecting elements.

Profiles need to be connected at the same level and on one side of the building. If basement siding protrudes, the profile must be cut so that a gap of six millimeters remains between them.

Internal corner profile

Installation methods internal corners th profiles are practically no different from the methods of finishing the outer corners. The distance between the corner and the soffit should be three millimeters, and the lower edge of the profile should be six below the J profile. If the basement siding or other element protrudes from below, the profile will need to be cut.

Finishing windows and doors

Many novice finishers experience difficulties at this stage. Openings can be flush with the wall surface, they can be recessed, or they can protrude. The most common openings are on the same level with the wall. The instructions for finishing such an opening look like this:

We protect openings from precipitation.
We install platbands on the openings (two vertical and two horizontal are used for each opening).
Joining profiles.

Installation of the main siding panels

Do-it-yourself siding work on the facade of a house always begins with the most inconspicuous part of the building. This allows you to work out the installation technology with the least losses.

The panel is mounted in the corner profile and joined with the lock of the starting rail.
The panel is fixed to the frame.

In the future, the panels are mounted using H-profiles or overlap one another. Installing the remaining panels is no different from fixing the first one. Approaching the opening, the excess will need to be removed. Don't forget to check the horizon of the panels every three levels with a spirit level.

To equip the lower part of the house, basement siding in the form of rails is used; you should not use ordinary panels for these purposes.

In addition to decorative functions, siding protects the house from precipitation, winds, and when laying a heat-insulating layer, from temperature changes.

Mounting vinyl siding with your own hands - budget way protection of a residential or industrial building from the impact external conditions. It is possible to carry it out independently by a person who has minimal skills in construction. The main thing at the same time: to adhere to the technology of work.

The frame on which the siding panels will be installed can be made of a metal profile or a wooden beam.

Metal crate

The finished structure will be more durable, stable and reliable. metal slats easier to fix on uneven surfaces.

The profile is fixed at a distance of 50 cm from each other; suspensions are used to connect it to the wall of the building. This technique helps to smooth out wall deviations, allowing you to assemble an even frame.

Wooden frame

This method is more affordable, but you will need to carefully study the material before buying. Usually bars with a section of 50 * 50 mm are used.

For the crate, you can not purchase wood that exfoliates or has traces of rot, deformation. Any damage will significantly reduce the life of the entire structure.

The installed frame must be carefully treated with protective impregnations to increase its resistance to decay, repel insects and reduce flammability.

Tools for the job

For self-assembly you will need:

sharp knife or jigsaw for cutting vinyl parts;
screwdriver;
perforator;
nails;
roulette;
a hammer.

Calculation of the amount of materials

Calculating the amount of vinyl siding

To find out the exact amount of materials that will be needed for work, you should measure the sheathed building.

The external surfaces of any structure can be divided into geometric figures: squares, rectangles, triangles. To facilitate the process, you can use this technique by first measuring the individual elements of the walls, and then adding the resulting values.

When calculating, it is important to remember that vinyl, like any PVC material, tends to change in size with an increase or decrease in temperature. environment. The degree of deviation can be almost 10 cm.

Therefore, it is important to take into account this property of the facing material when drawing up a plan for sheathing. If this item is ignored finished construction very soon it will lose its original appearance - the panels will warp or, on the contrary, gaps will form between the individual elements.

To prevent this from happening, before attaching vinyl siding, it is worth studying the installation recommendations.

Rules for installing vinyl siding

In order for the finished structure to be durable and not lose strength over time, you should:

During installation, fix the panels so that they can move freely.
Drive a nail exclusively into the center of the hole intended for it. It is impossible to fix the panel with a nail located at one of the ends of the hole - this can ruin the product. If it is necessary to drive it into the end (for example, if only in this area it can be connected to the lath of the crate), the hole must first be expanded using a puncher.
It is impossible to drive a nail to the end - there should be a distance of 1 mm between the panel and the cap.
The fasteners must be hammered in at a right angle, otherwise the lining elements may be bent.

Surface preparation

Any hinged elements– gutters, platbands, lamps, doorbells, mailboxes and others are removed from the walls.

After that, they carefully inspect their home: if there are traces of mold on the walls, large cracks and other defects, they are eliminated. The old wall cladding (plaster, tiles, boards) is completely removed.

Lathing installation

Do-it-yourself installation of battens is performed, taking into account the method of fastening the siding: under horizontal mount you need a vertical frame, and vice versa.

If at the same time as the cladding they plan to insulate the building, the crate is made double. In this case, the first frame should be perpendicular to the second, on which the siding will be installed. For example, if the sheathing will be fastened in a horizontal way, then the frame under it - the second one - should be vertical, and the first one, installed on the wall, should be horizontally directed.

The step of the crate is determined based on the width of the insulation of the plates.

Lathing installation

Siding installation

If there is no experience in carrying out such work, a video instruction will help: after viewing it, it is easier to understand all the nuances of the process.

Finding the starting point

The final result will depend on the evenness of the position of the initial bar; close attention should be paid to this point.

Along the entire perimeter of the building, it is required to designate the installation line. Using the building level, find the lowest point on the crate, screw a self-tapping screw in this place.

Do the same around the perimeter of the house. A thread is fixed on the first self-tapping screw, stretched along the perimeter, returning to the starting mark.

Using the cord as a reference line, fix the J-profile. At the same time, an indent of 6 mm is left at the corners. The profiles themselves are fixed at a distance of 10 mm from each other so that they do not warp when the temperature changes.

Installation of corner external and internal profiles

Before installing these elements, soffits are first installed or their locations are marked.

The corner profile is applied to the corner of the crate with the expectation that between its end and the soffit there is a free space of 3 mm. The bottom edge should protrude 6 mm below the starting bar. Fix the part using self-tapping screws.

Using the level, make sure that the profile is strictly vertical position. The rest are fixed in the same way.

The process of installing internal profiles is no different from installing external ones.

Framing door and window openings

If the openings are located in the same plane with the wall of the building, a j-profile is installed along their perimeter.

Profile connection order:

Bridge cuts are made on the upper profile at each end.
Bend them down. The resulting hole is designed to drain precipitation from the top part to the bottom.
Cuts are made on the side profiles so that the part can be tightly fitted to the upper profile.
Assemble the structure.

By the same principle, make the lower part of the frame.

Installation of the first row and extension of panels

Step by step instructions for installing vinyl siding:

Work starts from the rear of the house - here possible mistakes beginners will not be so noticeable.
The panel is inserted into the lock of the initial bar, at the same time leading its end into the corner profile. At the same time, it is important to maintain a distance of 6 mm (summer) or 9 mm (winter) from the bottom of the corner profile lock.
Building panels is carried out by overlapping or using the H-profile. In the first case, the locks and mounting frames are cut so that when the parts are installed, an overlap of 2.5 cm is formed. The H-profile is installed in the same way as the corner profiles - departing from the spotlights by 3 mm and going beyond the level of the initial bar by 6 mm.

The remaining panels are mounted either around the perimeter, or separately sheathed for each wall. This does not affect the final result.

At this stage, the evenness of the work is checked every 3 rows. To install a row interrupted by an opening, the panel adjacent to it is cut to the desired size. Another one is installed in the lower part of the frame of the window opening. finish profile- so the siding will be aligned in the plane.

Roof siding installation

Almost completed siding in the area adjacent to the roof is fastened with a J- or finishing profile.

First, a profile is fixed along the perimeter of the house under the roof. After that, the distance remaining between the bottom of the J-profile lock and the lock of the penultimate row of panels is measured. 2 mm is subtracted from the obtained value (the norm of the technological indent).

Points are marked on the vinyl panel (so that the lock is also removed during the cut), draw a line, cut off the excess. Make hooks, bend them on outside element. If this moment causes difficulties, and it is difficult to repeat it with your own hands, the video will help you figure it out.

Insert the prepared panel, fix it in the J-profile lock, slightly pushing it up.

This guide will help you install vinyl siding yourself.

How to multiply all the practical characteristics of the house and at the same time make the house look more solid and attractive? Ordinary siding will help achieve such goals. About all types of this cladding of the facade of the building and how to properly install the siding with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions for dummies will tell you in detail.

Necessary tools and materials

Any construction and repair process begins with preparation necessary tool and building materials. What does siding installation require?

Regardless of the type of siding, the master will definitely need such electric tools like a portable circular electric saw and a screwdriver.

From the usual repair improvised tools will come in handy:

Level;
Roulette;
A hammer;
Hacksaw for metal;
Knife-cutter;
Awl;
Screwdriver;
Pliers.

Siding fastening involves active work on wood or metal, which means it is desirable to protect it from getting small particles eyes and hands. To do this, builders are advised to wear safety glasses and construction gloves.

Which siding is better metal or vinyl

Depending on the material from which the elements for house cladding are made, there are several of the most popular types of siding: wood (blockhouse), metal and vinyl. What is the best siding?

We will analyze each type from the point of view of the customer (i.e., in terms of external indicators and cost) and from the position of the master installer (i.e., what needs to be done to pre-prepare the panels, how easy it is to install the siding, how to calculate the siding by cost and consumables etc.).

Vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride, almost no preparatory work Vinyl siding is not required. This material will be mounted on the wall of the house without special efforts, since all panels are made according to a clear geometry.

Of the positive performance characteristics worth pointing out:

environmental safety;
High fire safety;
Polymer siding almost completely eliminates the risk of rotting and damage by fungal diseases;
Tolerance to temperature fluctuations (from -50 to +50 C).

The disadvantages of vinyl siding include:

Low noise and heat insulation;
The inability to create bright contrasting colors;
It will not be possible to restore the color worn from time to time;
After installation, the vinyl surface requires constant processing and careful maintenance;
The manufacturer gives a warranty period for trouble-free operation of only 50 years and only if the structure is correctly installed.

Metal siding is galvanized steel panels with an additional coating with various colorants.

What has:

Excellent resistance to fire, fungal attack;
Not necessary special care behind the siding (it is enough to periodically wash with water);
Metal panels are most convenient for the implementation of a wide variety of design ideas: more than 100 color options+ decorative coatings;
Before installation special training the original surface is not held;
Mounting is easy at any ambient temperature;
There is no need to adjust the parts with a hacksaw.

The disadvantages for buyers include:

The complete absence of sound and heat insulation, which means that the installation of siding with insulation will be necessary;
Poor resistance to mechanical damage;
The service life is up to 50 years, also with competently carried out installation.

Installation features of block house siding are even more complex:

Here, additional pretreatment of wood with an antiseptic solution and various varnish-coloring substances is necessary;

Cleaning of the most basic surface of the building is required;

Horizontal panels should be fixed to the surface in a special way;

It is necessary to constantly treat the surface of the siding after installation;

Due to the considerable weight of the tree, the structure makes the walls of the house heavier;
Extremely high fire hazard;
The threat of rotting and infection with fungal diseases;
Possibilities of color presentation of siding: only shades of wood, i.e. siding brown with shades of halftone.

Considering all the above points, experts conclude that the duration of using siding under a log is 100% dependent on pre- and post-treatment/care.

But among the most valuable characteristics indicate high heat and sound insulation properties, resistance to mechanical and other types of damage, environmentally friendly and healthy material.

After analyzing the properties of each of the presented types, you can fairly determine which siding will look better on the facade of the house.

Lathing installation work

Siding sheathing always begins with the installation of the siding sheathing. What is siding and what is it for? The crate for siding is a frame made of metal or wooden (section 20-40 mm) guides, on which a siding fence is attached.

Frame horizontal and vertical slats under the crate can be made of galvanized, aluminum profile, CD-profile for drywall or other material: it is important that the contact of the building material on the walls of the house with the slats of the crate does not provoke destructive reactions (corrosion, decay, etc.).
Why you need a crate for siding is not difficult to understand. Firstly, this design allows you to "correct" the curvature of the walls of the house, hide small ledges, surface irregularities. Secondly, it greatly increases the operational durability of the material due to the created ventilation.
If the siding panels must be laid vertically, then the crate is made with horizontal guides. And vice versa: the installation of metal siding with horizontal panels requires a vertical crate.
With the help of the level, horizontal and vertical markings are carried out. From the drawn guides, after 30-40 mm, frame strips are attached to dowels (for walls made of brick, shell) or to self-tapping screws (for wooden surfaces). Under drains, lamps and other practical elements, additional laths of the crate are installed.

Thermal and moisture insulation

Installation of vinyl siding is not complete without additional measures for thermal insulation and moisture insulation. On the mounted crate with an overlap of 10 cm, a thermal insulator is laid in slabs (or in roll form). The insulation is supplemented by a hydrobarrier. On top of a double layer of insulation + waterproofing, another crate is installed (parallel to the slats of the first crate), on which it will be mounted outdoor siding under a log, from vinyl, metal or other material.

It is imperative to leave space between the hydro / thermal insulation cushion in the crate and the wall of the house. This air gap will be an effective help in the implementation of the functions of thermal and moisture insulation of the house, which will greatly increase the performance.

Installation of guide elements

The correct installation of the cladding of the facade of the house always begins with the fastening of the first plank. This is a special siding strip, which will subsequently be almost completely hidden by other siding elements. But, the final result depends entirely on how accurately this bar is attached: beautiful siding succeed or not at all.

What needs to be done? From the bottom of the wall on which it is planned to install vinyl siding, a distance equal to the thickness of the siding is measured (this is the width of one siding element). A nail is driven from one edge of the wall to a point according to the measured distance, and with the help of a level, a place is determined for another nail on the opposite edge of the wall.

Two such landmarks are connected by a line - this is the main guide for mounting deck siding. After several attached strips of siding along the frame crate, it is worth checking again with a level the clarity of the guide in order to eliminate errors.

Installation of external corner profiles

Exterior decoration of the house necessarily includes work on the plinth, i.e. protruding part of the foundation. For installation basement siding a material of a more expressive format and often a contrasting color is chosen.

For example, under gray siding for the facade of the walls, beige siding for the base will look quite impressive. Corner elements, which must be used for the installation of basement siding, are also used to finish the corners of windows and doors.

Manufacturers have developed several different shapes as external corner profiles.:

J-profile is used to fix end and corner panels (in window openings, doors, corner joints), and also as a finishing bar. Under the starting bar this species profile is not advised to apply, because due to the shape (in the form latin letter J) water can accumulate in the profile.
The H-profile is designed to fasten the plates together on a flat section of the walls.
F-profile close the slopes.

It is necessary to leave a gap of 6 mm between any of the protruding wall elements and the profile - this takes into account the maximum expansion of the profile material when the temperature changes. It is this installation scheme that is performed for contact with the base: there is a 6 mm indent between it and the profile.

Installation of internal corner profiles

The order of installation of internal corner profiles is practically no different from the installation of external corners.:

Use J-profile;
A space of up to 3 mm is left between the profile and the siding panel.

If the wall of the house is more than 3 m, then, when installing the alto siding on the profile, the profiles should be spliced.

There is such a pattern: vinyl or other siding changes dimensions with an increase / decrease in air temperature, but you can determine in advance the direction of linear expansion of the material. For this, self-tapping screws are used.

If you screw a self-tapping screw into the extreme oval hole of the vertical bar not in the center, but along the very top edge, then the material will not deform up, but only to the sides and down.

Installation of the first panel

As mentioned above, the first panel and the first row is the index for all subsequent rows. It must be attached to the starting bar. From this first panel, all of the following elements will rise to the top of the wall.

Particular attention and diligence, of course, should be given to the starting bar. How to fix properly starting bar- already described above. After the starter bar is fixed, you can proceed to install the first siding panel.

Building practitioners have identified a number of tricks through which you can achieve High Quality and wear resistance of installation of siding panels:

Strips of siding material have a number of oval holes along the outer strip, which are intended for fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws). These fasteners should only be installed in the center of the oval, as this avoids damage to the panels when their width and length increase with temperature changes.
Advice on the tightness of the fit of the self-tapping screws to the surface of the panel has a similar justification: the width between these elements should be such that a coin can freely enter.
At the corners, the fastening of the slats is not carried out end-to-end, since there are their own elements for these structural parts of the house (corner slats).

Installing vinyl siding on a house wall is easy if you carefully follow the recommendations of professionals and have all the necessary materials / tools at hand.

In addition to siding plates, it is necessary to purchase internal and external corners, starting and finishing rails, a connecting profile, and trim. These design elements will help you complete quality installation siding finishes in all difficult places at home (corners, near-window frames, doorways, under the roof, etc.).

From the lower level of the house from the extreme left corner, we begin to build siding:

The starting strip is attached;

The first siding panel is attached to the starting strip with a lower lock;

The higher rows are fixed with the lock of the lower row;

Completes the construction finishing bar.

Roof installation

The scheme of work is no different from the above described:

Installation of the crate;
Installation of the starting rail at a distance of up to 15 cm from the ends of the walls;
The first siding panel is laid into this starting rail;
Siding parts are overlapped, 2 cm each. The distance between the fastening strips must be at least 0.5 cm.

Mounting the pediment

The pediment of the house is one of the most striking details of the construction; its appearance is striking from afar. Naturally, the design of all installation siding works should be completed with a similar finish of the pediment.

It is convenient that, regardless of the type of siding chosen, the dimensions of the panels can be changed: the width is usually not adjusted, but the length and shape of the edge of the panel can be easily cut with an ordinary carpenter's knife. The accuracy of the whole structure will be ensured by the types of profiles described above.

The crate must be done for the pediment. It consists of the same guides as for the wall of the house.
The surface of the gable can be covered vertically or horizontally with siding panels. You can use a combined method - the transition from one direction of installation to another is possible using an edging profile.
Work is carried out from the bottom up and ends with a finishing bar. The top panel must be cut at the angle of the roof slope. To do this, it is enough to make a template from a small piece of the panel.

How to calculate gable siding? There is a simple installation method: from the center of the gable. An H-profile should be installed on the central vertical axis, starting strips should be inserted into it, and panels should already be mounted on them in both directions.

Panel installation

Externally, corrugated siding can be placed both vertically and horizontally on a wall or on another surface. The first siding panel is inserted into the fixed starting bar along the lock. A click should be heard - it means that the bar is installed correctly.

Further rows of panels are raised up, fastened with self-tapping screws to the crate, taking into account the above construction technology, and the finish bar completes the structure, behind which the edge panel is inserted, bending it slightly.

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation rules

Anyone can do all the work on finishing the facade of the house with siding panels. The cost of work during self-assembly, of course, is several times lower than payment to hired craftsmen. If all the recommendations are followed thoroughly and clearly, then there will be no mistakes, and the appearance of your home will allow you to experience a sense of pride and joy in full.

When installing siding with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions repeatedly focus on this rule: when fixing the siding panel to the wall with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to leave a distance of 1-2 mm between the screw head and the wall.
This is a must, because when changing temperature indicators vinyl material panels dock siding it tends to expand, and when fixed “tightly” to the wall, the panels can simply burst or be significantly deformed.
It is for this reason that siding work in Russia should be performed only in the summer (i.e., in the warm season). After all, the material of polyvinyl chloride, from which vinyl siding panels are made, has sufficient linear expansion.

Particular attention should be paid to the installation instructions, since even slight deviations from the rules may result in sagging of panels of this type.

Rules for installing metal siding

Metal siding panels are made of galvanized iron, and this implies a significant weight of the material. This means that the crate under them should be more serious than for vinyl, which will naturally affect the cost of the work of the craftsmen and the cost of building materials for the crate.
Metal siding m2 at the prices of manufacturers in the Russian Federation is almost twice as expensive as vinyl siding.
For metal siding, post-installation work is also important, since the material requires attention to the condition of the paint. This means that the cost of work after installation is also considerable.

Conclusion: clearly define good and bad view siding-finishing the facade of the house is impossible, because. it depends on individual aspects: the condition of the house, the taste preferences of the owner, the size of his wallet, etc. Only one thing is true: dressing your house in a chic dress from Siding Design is profitable, durable and beautiful!

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation

If you decide to finish the walls of the house with material such as vinyl siding, installation, the instructions for which should be studied first of all, can be done by yourself.

Vinyl siding is popular due to affordable price and ease of installation. But first you need to familiarize yourself with the order of work and fastening technology.

Characteristics of the siding installation process

Installation of vinyl siding includes several stages:

Preparatory work, including basic measurements, development of a panel mounting scheme, preparation of materials, fasteners and tools necessary for work.
Installation of vinyl panels according to the instructions.
Installation of soffit panels to ensure ventilation of the space under the roof.
The final stage, which includes checking the quality of the work performed and cleaning.

Materials:

vinyl siding;
beam for the frame or CD-profile;
near-window plank;
external or internal corners;
soffit panel;
initial profile;
finish line;
H-profile connector;
drain bar;
J profile.

Instruments:

circular electric saw;
hacksaw for metal;
metal scissors;
knife-cutter;
cross saw;
pliers-perforator;
crimp pliers;
pliers;
hammer with a nail puller;
metal joiner's hammer;
screwdriver;
awl;
ruler;
roulette;
building level;
rope;

Preparatory work for the installation of siding

For the siding to work properly long years, you need to fix it according to the instructions, making thermal insulation, which will protect the walls from freezing and moisture penetration. All contact points of siding with brick, plaster, stone, concrete and spaces around openings in the wall must be insulated.

If siding will be clad for a new facility under construction, then it is recommended to clad the facade first with moisture-resistant OSB boards. To clad the facades of a commissioned building with wooden wall covering, all damaged boards must be replaced and loosened boards must be fixed. From the facade, before starting work, it is necessary to dismantle all drains, ebbs, shutters, lighting fixtures etc.

Installing siding under siding

The installation of siding begins with the fastening of the crate to the walls from even bars along the entire length of 25x80-50x50 mm.

Under horizontal siding, the bars are nailed vertically, under vertical - horizontally. The fastening step of the bars is 30-40 cm. If insulation is to be laid under the siding, then first of all, a crate is attached perpendicular to the future crate under the siding for laying insulation with a step equal to the width of the insulation roll or mat. Along the perimeter of windows and doorways bars should also be nailed.

After laying the insulation, it is protected waterproofing film fixed with a stapler to the crate. You need to stretch it in a horizontal direction from the bottom of the wall. Each next row of film should overlap the previous one by 10 cm.

The crate on which the panels will be attached can be made both from bars and from a CD profile. Metallic profile does not lend itself to precipitation, so it is preferable to wooden bars, which should be treated with an antiseptic.

Instructions for fixing horizontal siding

Starting point designation. First you need to decide on the location of the first row of panels. If the rear is exploitable, it can match the old cladding. If the building is new, then the first row should overlap upper part foundation. Control verticals and horizontals with a plumb line and building level.
Installation of accessories - starting strip, outer and inner corners, architraves. You need to start with them and then move on to attaching profiles. First of all, you need to set the corners, the tops of which should be 64 mm lower than the cornice or soffit.
Installation of the initial panel. The entire surface of the siding will depend on how evenly the first panel is installed. Draw a straight line across the width of the launch pad on the wall. It will be a guideline for attaching the starting profile. Adjacent panels must be fixed at a distance of 12 mm from each other.
Installation of insulating elements on window and door openings. At this stage, install all platbands, ebbs, window trims and finishing linings. It is advisable to join the final overlays to each other at an angle of 45 ° - this way the openings will look more neat.
Mounting facing panels. This is the main stage, but all the most difficult is over. You need to fasten them from the bottom up, starting from the starting bar. To do this, insert the panel into the initial profile and secure with nails. In this case, the panel should move slightly. It is necessary to fasten the panels with an interval of 40.5 cm. A gap of 6-12 mm must be left between the main siding and accessories. Panels should be mounted one on top of the other 1/2 of the mark indicated by the manufacturer. Do not make frequent overlaps, the joints should not be too noticeable. Finally, fasten the panels around the openings.
Setting the top edge. You need to install profiles under it in the same way as under the openings. Under the edge of the roof, you need to mount only solid panels, you do not need to cut them. The final row of siding is done using a J-profile or finish strip. At the top of the J-profiles, you need to make holes with a diameter of 6 mm in increments of 60 cm to ensure that water drains from the roof.

Siding installation: summing up

So, strictly adhering to the above recommendations, strictly observing the order of work, you can install vinyl siding with your own hands, with a little effort. This will save on the work of professionals, and the result will please for many years.

Siding is a material that is intended for exterior wall cladding. Quite often it is used as decorative coating when finishing interior spaces. Such widespread use is explained by the fact that these panels not only protect the house from external influences but also give the interior a unique flavor. In addition, this material is relatively cheap and easy to install. But in order for the coating to serve you for many years, you need to know the rules for installing siding and strictly adhere to them.

When installing siding, fasteners made of anti-corrosion materials should be used, otherwise under the influence of external environment they can cause rusty streaks.

Panel installation tools

At the moment, in stores selling goods for construction and repair, most often there are panels made of vinyl. And experts recommend this particular material for self-assembly. Therefore, all of the following rules apply specifically to PVC siding.

Before proceeding with the installation of the panels, prepare the tools that you will need for the job. First of all, they depend on the type of mounts you have chosen. You can use the following fasteners:

Stainless fasteners - will increase the life of both fasteners and the siding itself.

nails;
self-tapping screws (screws);
construction staples.

Each of these types of mounts has its own advantages. Nails are the simplest and most affordable type of fastening, but for mounting panels with them, you need to have a certain skill. In addition, in order to hammer a nail, you must use both hands. Accordingly, without assistants it becomes impossible.

Staples or screws can be installed independently. But using a stapler for a novice master will not be easy. Accordingly, the most the best option become self-tapping. And to install them, you need a screwdriver.

In addition, you will need:

measuring devices ( construction tape measure, centimeter ruler, square);
carpenter's knife and scissors for cutting (hacksaw, when it comes to wood siding);
a simple pencil for marking;
building level.

If you prepare everything you need in advance, then you will not have to be distracted by searching for it during work.

Rules for choosing fasteners for siding

For proper installation of panels, fasteners made of anti-corrosion materials should be selected. The fact is that average term siding services that most guarantee modern manufacturers, is 30-50 years. No fastener made of steel will last that long. In addition, under the influence of the external environment, fasteners that are not protected by a special coating can cause rusty streaks. And such defects are almost impossible to eliminate.

When choosing screws and nails, pay attention to their length. It should be sufficient to ensure that the fastening tip enters the crate to a depth of at least 2 cm. When installing the panels, you should also look at the fastening cap. Its diameter should not be less than 0.7-0.9 cm. Otherwise, they can simply slip into the siding hole, and reliable fastening will not work.

The rules for the installation of PVC panels provide certain conditions to install fasteners. The fact is that vinyl tends to change its volumes under the influence of temperature. Moreover, these changes can be very significant (up to 1 cm). And if the siding is installed incorrectly, then the entire wall covering can be deformed. This will spoil not only the appearance of the walls, but also weaken their protection.

Mounting rules

For the correct installation of panels, it is necessary to adhere to several prerequisites:

When installing siding, direct your efforts strictly from the bottom up. Press down on the plate until the parts of the lock are securely connected.
The fastener (nail, screw or bracket) must be located exactly in the center of the hole intended for them.
When installing horizontal siding, fasteners should be at least 39-41 cm apart.
It is necessary to install the fasteners so that there is a gap of 1-2 mm from the cap to the surface of the plank. Remember that the siding should "walk" freely enough in the locks.
Make sure that the screws enter the plank and the crate below it at an angle of 90 0 degrees. Otherwise, such fastening may interfere with changing the volume of the bar.

Pulling the siding up or to the side can damage the locking mechanism. And this will lead to deformation of the entire coating. And not only in the future, but also when installing adjacent rows. They can warp, and the panels will begin to loosely fit together.

When fixing fasteners, make sure that the head of the nail or screw does not press the bar to the crate. Installing a nail in this way is quite difficult. And for this reason, it is preferable to use screws. It is enough to "drive" it all the way, and then loosen it by one turn.

If necessary, pay attention to the crate. For her, you need to use well-dried quality wood. Only such a base can guarantee an even and durable coating.

If you need to install fasteners above or below the holes provided by the manufacturers, then in no case do not punch the bar.

Scheme of the facade lathing: 1 - wall, 2 - bracket, 3 - thermal insulating gasket, 4 - anchor dowel, 5 - L-profile, 6 - insulation, 7 - film, 8 - BLOCK HOUSE panels, 9 - corner bracket, 10 - L-shaped profile, 11 - self-tapping press washer, 12 - rondol, 13 - bracket.

It is much more reasonable to first form a nest with a drill and a drill, and only then install the fasteners. In order to protect the fastening of the panels from environmental influences, use special washers made of nylon or plastic. They are quite soft and plastic, so they will not interfere with the natural shift of the panels. And at the same time, such gaskets reliably protect the fasteners from moisture or wind.

The rules for mounting horizontal, vertical or decorative (for example, corner) panels are practically the same. The only difference is the distance from one fastener to another. Vertical and horizontal strips are attached in the same way (there should be approximately 39-41 cm between the screws). But for additional elements, this distance is on average 2 times less. It is 21-25 cm.

Rules for the formation of temperature gaps

When installing siding panels, it is often necessary to join several separate dies together. Manufacturers strongly recommend that at the same time it is imperative to leave so-called temperature gaps between the slats.

Temperature gaps at the skin nodes: a - docking horizontal element with a vertical J-profile, b - joining a vertical element with a horizontal one, c - joining horizontal hidden elements, d - joining elements with an overlap, e - joining elements on an H-profile.

Otherwise, with an increase in volume, one siding may rest against another. In this case, the entire surface is deformed. And when the ambient temperature drops, the bar will slip out from under the docking. Then the wall will have to be repaired, replacing the damaged element, which is not at all easy to do.

There is no need to calculate the gap yourself. For a quality product, this parameter is indicated in the instructions that come with the package. But there are some nuances here. As a rule, manufacturers imply a gap width for solid panels. Accordingly, for a cut siding, it should be less, since it cannot increase by the same length as a solid one. Therefore, the specified size must be reduced depending on the length of the bar. If you shortened the siding by half, then the gap should be about 2 times less than the initial one. If cut off by 1/3, then the gap should become the same amount narrower. Usually in practice we are talking about only a few millimeters, which can be ignored. But in some cases this parameter plays an important role.

The nuances of the formation of temperature gaps

In addition to all of the above, it should be borne in mind that the instructions usually indicate the dimensions for only one gap. But if you join 2 horizontal panels, then this number must be doubled. Because when the temperature changes, both adjacent sidings will increase in volume. Accordingly, you need to leave room for both the upper and lower bars.

But when joining vertical panels, you need to leave the distance indicated in the instructions. Since such a panel increases in length by about 2 times more than in width. Accordingly, it requires less space for changing dimensions.

But even if you know these rules, then you must read the instructions for installing siding, because PVC expansion parameters largely depend on the composition from which the product is made.

The self-tapping screw should be fixed exactly in the middle of the hole provided for this.

When forming gaps, it is necessary to take into account the ambient temperature. If it is high enough, then the panels are already expanded and elongated. And if you mount siding at low temperatures, then after heating the strips will "grow" in volume. Usually, manufacturers in the instructions indicate only the boundary air temperature. That is, the lowest possible, at which the siding can be mounted, and the highest possible. Accordingly, you need to make certain amendments that will be closer to reality.

The size of the temperature gap can also be affected by incorrectly installed strap fasteners. The installation rules state that the self-tapping screw must be fixed exactly in the middle of the hole provided for this. But, of course, no one measures this parameter. And the fastening unit is formed "by eye". Manufacturers also take this into account, so the holes on the panels are oval.

The size of the perforation provides not only for the possible deformation of the siding, but also for an allowance of approximately 2.5 mm. If you fix the fasteners too close to the edge of the hole, then when changing the dimensions, the bar may warp. Therefore, if you installed the panel incorrectly, then you should increase the temperature gap next to it. At the same time, consider the possibility of displacement of the siding in one direction or another. Or simply replace the damaged fasteners with new ones.

How to install siding

remember, that correct installation panels guarantees you a reliable and durable coating. Therefore, be sure to divide your work into stages and then stick to them. An example workflow is as follows:

The installation of the first siding panel is carried out after the installation of all finishing strips.

Unpack the new package with siding and let the panels “rest” for 1.5-2 hours at the temperature at which you will be installing.
Determine the amount of siding you need and the dimensions of the planks themselves. Do not forget to take into account the size of the temperature gaps. Trim the panels if necessary.
The first panel is attached exactly in the middle of the wall, on which the markup has been previously applied. Tools such as a level and a plumb line help you draw lines accurately.
Fix the panel by installing fasteners exactly in the center of the holes in the siding intended for this purpose. If there are not enough such "nests" or they are located in an inconvenient place, then pre-drill additional perforations.
Check installed panel. If it moves a few millimeters up, down, right and left easily enough, then the siding is installed correctly. Put the panel back in place.

Continue the installation of the coating, adhering to the same rules.

Some nuances of installing siding

When fixing decorative siding (corner profiles, J-rails, etc.), make sure that the fastener assembly does not come into contact with the crossed profile. In order to avoid this, cut it (while providing the necessary temperature gap). Another way out of the situation would be to install a rail over the bar. Wherein plastic coating will slide and will not interfere with the natural deformation of the coating.

When installing a decorative coating, its appearance is of considerable importance. In order for the siding to look like a uniform canvas, try to “hide” the panel joints in an inconspicuous place. All seams should be directed away from front door. When finishing external walls at home, the overlaps should be directed towards the front door. Since a person usually pays attention to the walls when entering the house, and not when leaving it. And the installation of the side walls occurs from the rear corner of the building to its facade.

Do not try to save material by using the leftovers after trimming the panels. The spoiled appearance of the coating is not worth the money saved. Make sure that objects that will be attached to the walls (for example, drainpipes, lamps, hanging furniture), did not interfere with the natural shift of the panels. To avoid this, expand the holes for the fasteners that you previously made in the siding.

It is not necessary to seal the seams at the junctions with the gutters of the corners and decorative panels, as well as places of overlaps. And remember that the siding overlap must be changed (shifted) approximately every 2-3 rows. This technique will allow you to mount not only a neat, but also a reliable coating.

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