How can you treat chipboard from moisture. How to cover and process chipboard from moisture. Oil varnish or drying oil

Due to the ease of processing and excellent consumer qualities today is one of the most widely used in furniture production. Modern technological processes make it possible to obtain a sufficiently high-quality and easy-to-use material from chips and composite resin.

However, chipboard also has its own specifics of use, which dictates some conditions for its processing. For example, this board can crumble and split under strong physical impact, and, moreover, to a much greater extent than ordinary wood. The fact is that the wood fibers present in the array of natural solid wood, are, as it were, a connecting element that gives additional strength to the entire board.

In chipboard, these fibers are destroyed, so such a board requires slightly different conditions for use and handling.

How to cut chipboard

If there is no power tool at hand, almost any saw will do for sawing chipboard. The only thing that should be observed when sawing is to try to keep the saw almost flat in relation to the surface of the plate. So the plate will crumble less when sawing, and the cut will be more accurate.

Circular saw or electric jigsaw, of course, will prove to be more productive tools in this matter. The only wish in this case is to drive the tool not too fast, only slightly pressing. However, it is better to keep the speed of rotation of the circular saw and the stroke of the jigsaw at a high level. A fine-toothed saw blade or saw blade is best suited for sawing this material, so you can avoid coloring the material and the appearance of an uneven edge.

It is clear that the sharper the mil, the cleaner the cut is. You can additionally protect the edge from coloring if you use masking tape glued on the cutting line. This is especially true when sawing chipboard with a decorative coating.

At chipboard processing with a decorative (for example, laminated) coating, you should also not rush, it is better to cut slowly, avoiding chips. Another way to protect the coating from chipping is to pre-cut it with a sharp knife.

Drilling, planing and rasping

With drilling and planing chipboard, everything is exactly the same as with sawing - a blunt or slow moving tool will split and crumble the material. So, a dull drill will chip off the edges of the hole, in order to get even, high-quality holes, you should approach the choice of a drilling tool with all responsibility. You need to feed the drill during work smoothly and not too fast, so you can improve the quality of drilling.

Small irregularities resulting from sawing on the cut of the slab can be eliminated with a planer or rasp. The tool is blown along the edge smoothly and carefully, taking care not to chip or tear the material.

If the chipboard you are processing has a coating in the form of a film, it is better to cut its edge with a planer. If you do not have the skills to work with this tool, you can use a file.

We process the surface of chipboard

During this operation, two methods can be used - facing the surface with some kind of decorative material or varnishing. It must be said that due to the specifics and texture of this chipboard material quite rarely varnished, it is very difficult to achieve any impressive results in terms of beauty. Therefore, most often this is done in order to protect the outer layer of the plate from moisture.

Before proceeding with varnishing the surface of the plate, it should be carefully leveled with putty and sanded. The fact is that a layer of varnish will show everything, the smallest surface irregularities, which will greatly spoil the impression of the result of your work.

Putty must be applied with a spatula, it must be allowed to dry well, and then treat the surface sandpaper. Such preparation will help to get a completely even and smooth surface ready for varnishing.

If you have thoroughly puttyed and sanded the surface of the slab, most likely you will need to apply only one layer of varnish. If, however, flaws and irregularities were found during varnishing, you can repeat the procedure - before re-applying varnish, dry the first layer thoroughly and walk a little over it with fine sandpaper.

As for drawing decorative coating, then for this purpose it is better to choose a decorative self-adhesive film- it is convenient to work with it, and a wide selection of colors and textures will allow you to choose exactly what you need. Such a film has an adhesive layer, which facilitates and speeds up its application; before applying such a film, the plate must also be carefully sanded - the fact is that the thickness of the film is small, so all the irregularities of the plate will show through it. With due diligence, you will get a beautiful and even surface.

Alternatively, instead of a film, you can use sheet plastic– it is more durable and provides better protection for the surface of the slab. To apply it, you will need a special glue, which is applied to the surface and ensures a strong adhesion of the plastic to the chipboard.

How to protect the surface and edges of chipboard

We have already mentioned above that chipboard furniture has some storage and use features - for example, it does not tolerate excessive moisture very well (strictly speaking, no furniture tolerates dampness well, but this is best seen on chipboard furniture).

Therefore, if you have made any piece of furniture from this material, it will be useful to protect the edges and surface of the slab. In addition to protecting against moisture, such a measure will also help reduce the release harmful substances that may be contained in the chipboard.

An excellent measure in this regard is the application of additional layers of varnish - this will help to avoid the release of formaldehyde. The layer of lacquer coating should be thick enough, it is necessary to lacquer the furniture at least twice.

It is also possible to protect the chipboard surface with a laminate or self-adhesive film, as we have already written above. The only thing that can be added here is that the joints of the protective material should be as tight as possible to prevent moisture from penetrating.

You can also protect the surface of chipboard with plywood, the only point here is that the plywood itself can be made using formaldehyde. If you know or suspect that your plywood may contain formaldehyde, varnish the plywood to reduce its release.

Matter or wallpaper is not too good for this purpose - the porous structure of these materials will not be able to reduce the amount of formaldehyde emitted from plywood, although as decorative material they fit just fine. A separate topic is the edges of chipboard boards.

Their protection is no less important than for the surface of the plate, with prolonged exposure to moisture, the edge swells greatly and loses strength and integrity. The edge is also required to be protected from mechanical stress; with a strong impact, it can crumble. In addition, the chipboard cut is not very aesthetic, so furniture manufacturers tend to further decorate it.

For this purpose, many manufacturers produce special edges for cutting chipboard; a huge number of the most diverse products are on the market today, differing in thickness, material, color and texture.

Using this material is quite easy - usually such a strip already has a layer of glue applied to it, with the help of a not very hot iron or hair dryer, the glue is heated and the strip is applied to the edge. After that, in order to fix the edge in place, you can iron it again with an iron.

If the edges of your chipboard exposed to high loads, it makes sense to protect them with thin wooden planks - such a lining will not only protect them from impacts, but will also be in perfect harmony with the color of the surface itself. It is better to plant such planks on glue, but if there are no other options, you can use small carnations, only it is better to bite off their hats so as not to spoil appearance.

After the wooden plank is in place, it is cleaned and, together with the surface of the plate, is covered with a layer of varnish or other protective composition.

The adhesive tape prevents splitting of the surface layer of the board during sawing. hand saw should be set at the maximum angle.

The jagged edge is a sad sight. It is especially striking on plates painted white.

Chips and artificial resin create a strong bond when pressed, but with a certain processing of the plate, the chips can split. For example, along the edge of the cut, at the place of drilling, when planing and rasping. The fibers natural wood longer and stronger connected to each other. This is why particle board needs to be handled more carefully.

How to cut chipboard

For these purposes, almost any saw will do. Only it must be driven at a very sharp angle to the surface of the plate, that is, placing the saw almost flat on the surface. Disk and bow saw drive with a slight feed, with only light pressure. This will also reduce the risk of a brittle cut line. It is advisable, of course, to use a saw with the smallest teeth. Additional protection may also become adhesive tape, which is pulled along the cut line. This is generally recommended for coated particle board.

One more tip: drink without haste. Excessive haste can lead to such a result that the uneven, chipped edge of one part forms an ugly joint with another. By the way, the coating can be protected from splitting by cutting it sharp knife- the deeper the better.

Drilling, rasping and planing

Drills that are dull or running at limited speed tend to split the edges of the hole being drilled. Only picking up good drill, and by properly guiding the tool, damage can be avoided.

With an even clean cut additional processing not required. But Circular Saw may leave bumps that need to be removed with a rasp or planer.

The rasp (or planer) is carefully guided along the edge, as when working with wood, and from outside to the inside so that the chips do not break out, and the edge after stripping does not seem even more sloppy.

For plates covered with film, a planer is more suitable. Those who find working with a planer too difficult can use a file.

Surface treatment

There are two ways decorative processing surfaces of wood products and chipboards - varnishing or cladding. Lacquered, as a rule, wooden surfaces, particle boards for aesthetic reasons - extremely rarely, only in the case when it is necessary to "ennoble" the not very impressive appearance of the plate or the finished product.

Before varnishing, the surface should be puttied.

Even a factory-sanded wood surface particle board needs to be puttied and sanded before applying varnish to it. Tiny, barely noticeable damage can be clearly visible under the varnish film, and this will only worsen the appearance of the product.

Putty is applied evenly with a spatula, and after drying, the surface is treated with sandpaper. This preparatory work an absolutely flat surface should become, and then one layer of varnish is enough to form a flawless film.

If any errors are found after applying the varnish, then the surface should be lightly sanded with sandpaper before re-coating.

Glue the cover.

The choice of coatings for particle boards is very large. Those who have special requests regarding color, it is better to use the film.

Films are produced in a wide range color scheme and with various decor, moreover, they are usually treated with an adhesive composition, which simplifies the work on finishing the plates. Since the film coating is very thin, the bearing surface must first be carefully sanded before stretching the film.

Sheet laminate, thicker and more wear resistant. It is glued special glue, which is applied to the bearing surface of the plate and to the coating.

The laminate coating makes the particle board attractive and at the same time protects it from various influences.

Surface protection

If you bought or made furniture from particle boards, the composition of which is unknown to you, then it is better to take additional measures to protect your health.

Lacquer protection.

Formaldehyde fumes can be stopped by recoating the furniture. This layer should be thick enough. Thus, the varnish coating, at least in two layers, prevents further evaporation of formaldehyde.

Films and sheet laminates also protect the surface. Here you need to pay attention to the joints: they should be as tight as possible.

Plywood can also become a protective material, but not any. Some types of plywood are made using an adhesive composition in which the same formaldehyde is present. Therefore, it is desirable to process plywood and varnish it.

Matter and wallpaper.

Matter and wallpaper are absolutely unsuitable materials for protection against formaldehyde emissions. They are porous and therefore cannot serve as reliable protection.

Carpeting, as well as the adhesive used to install it, can also release formaldehyde. If an increased concentration of hazardous fumes is found during inspection by the relevant authorities, it is necessary to find out what kind of material is the source before blaming chipboard for everything and starting new processing their surfaces.

edges

A narrow strip of plastic is applied to the edge. The iron promotes bonding.

The cut of chipboard does not look very beautiful, and, more importantly, it exposes the loose, most vulnerable inner layer. Also, with impact and strong pressure, the edges of the cut can be damaged. Therefore, the edge must be protected.

The simplest, but in most cases enough reliable protection- glue with a not very hot iron plastic tape with an adhesive coating or a veneer plate.

Wooden planks.

The edges of the slab, which are subjected to the greatest loads, need to be better defense. Thin planks of wood will help to ensure it. In color, they should be in harmony with the coating of the plate. After gluing the planks separately or together with the plate, they must be varnished or some other protective compound.

Even a 5mm bar is an effective edge protector. A wider bar will also prevent the slab from sagging.

This post is about waterproofing. ends of laminated chipboard. To a greater extent, it is relevant for protecting the countertop from water, but when assembling furniture in the bathroom or in the kitchen, it will also be useful to process the ends of the parts that make up the box.

As can be seen from the structure of the laminated chipboard, the part most exposed to moisture is the cut that is not protected by the laminate. When water gets on it, sawdust swells and the part is deformed. I will say right away that moisture-resistant chipboard (green polymer sawdust is visible on the cut) is not a panacea - for the experiment, throw a piece of such chipboard into a bucket of water ... So for her, waterproofing issues are just as relevant, albeit to a lesser extent.

So, let's analyze the various protective techniques - their advantages and disadvantages.

1. edge banding(often kitchen countertops the edges are glued with a simple one - PVC or melamine). To be honest, this technique does not greatly protect chipboard from swelling - water penetrates into the joint between the edge and the laminate and does its dirty work. Not suitable for waterproofing(see photo 1).

2. - due to the fact that the edge has overhangs that go a little on the surface of the laminate, the joints, which are so defenseless in the previous version, become more closed, therefore provides the best waterproofing. But isolated, that is, without the use of sealing compounds, its effectiveness is clearly insufficient.

3. Silicone sealant - can be used both in isolation and in

in combination with other methods (processing the ends under the edge or decorative end strips).

In addition, it is possible to seal the ends of the laminated chipboard in the boxes with sealant in the places of the screeds (those that are not pasted over with an edge), after tightening the joint, it is necessary to remove the squeezed out excess sealant with a rag - after the silicone dries, the box will be more airtight. Silicone should be used sanitary, that is, with protection against fungus. A "sausage" of sealant is squeezed out of the tube onto the end, and then smeared with a spatula or finger.

Separately, I note that the edge is not glued to silicone, and if it is glued, then not for long!

4. Aquastop treatment - Great alternative to sealant. Apply twice with a brush. After complete drying, it forms a layer on which you can even glue the edge (according to the furniture makers, I haven’t tried it myself).

5. Paraffin treatment - it is grandfatherly, but nevertheless, extremely effective method waterproofing. The method looks like this: we put the part on the end, masking tape is glued on both sides of the laminate (so that the end looks like with sides), then we take a candle and building hair dryer we melt the paraffin, pouring it into the resulting groove so that it spreads evenly over the surface of the butt). And keep warming it up. In this case, the paraffin will be absorbed into the laminated chipboard, like water. Processing is carried out at least twice. After that, we spill the end with paraffin, but do not fry it so that it hardens, forming a protective layer. Excess is removed with a knife. On the cut of the laminate, it can be seen that paraffin penetrates into the material to a depth of at least 3-4 mm, which provides excellent, but again not 100%, waterproofing.

The main disadvantages of this technique are the laboriousness and, again, the impossibility of gluing the edges.

Today, the use of recycling waste for the manufacture of secondary materials is very popular. Such products include chipboard, which is currently used as the basis for the construction of various types of products.

This substance has good technical indicators, which allowed them to replace to some extent, even a tree. Chipboard is processed with special tools that allow you to obtain parts of certain sizes and shapes. You can find more details where you can also purchase these mechanisms.

We use solutions

Chipboard is trimmed very often, since in production it is made in sheets of a certain length. Of these, a lot of types are subsequently made. different products ranging from simple partitions to sophisticated furniture. This material is often coated (laminated) special paint.

You can process the butt with several substances:

1. waterproof glue. This is done primarily to protect it from moisture.

2. Special sealants. These substances have the same purpose as the previous type.

3. Paint. If you need to give beautiful view product, then the end can be covered with any paint, choosing it to match the color of the object.

We use a special tape

All factory-made chipboard products always have an attractive appearance, but even they have ends. To hide them, a special edging tape. It is attached to the edge with a special tool.

Such products can be mounted at home. This material sticks to the end face of the chipboard when heated. This property is used in technological processes.

At home, you can do this with the help of an iron, which is heated this product and attached to the edge of the workpiece.

To give the product an aesthetic shape, the end can be sanded with a special tool and coated with special paint and varnish. In such cases, you can apply different types putties that are designed to work with this type of material.

Edge processing is a very responsible process, since in most cases not only the appearance, but also the life of the entire product depends on it. To obtain quality products from chipboard, only special tools, which will greatly facilitate the work and allow you to create modern beautiful products.

Video instruction for gluing the edge on chipboard end to help you:

For more than half a century, laying chipboard on the floor has been relevant for finishing floor covering. Continuous improvement of technology and technological processes improves the structure and improve the quality of chipboard.

The plate has become durable, moisture resistant, environmentally friendly. And if we take into account that the basis of the panel is woodworking waste, then in terms of price-quality, the plate is out of competition with others finishing materials. Like a subfloor, a chipboard base will last for decades, extending the life of the flooring.

Characteristics and use of chipboard

The slab is made from sawmill waste, carpentry and furniture woodworking; shavings, sawdust, chips. The product uses wood-shaving material of coniferous and hardwood, and a polymer thermosetting resin based on phenol-formaldehyde is used to bond the wood particles.

The quality of the panel depends on the dosage of the resin when applied to the wood particles, the lack or excess of the binder leads to the rejection of the product. In the manufacturing process, the boards are sanded, laminated, laminated and veneer is applied.

By use, chipboard products are divided into general and special purpose(made to order).

Building panels are used in the decoration of walls, indoor ceilings, and chipboard is laid on the floor as a finishing coating or a rough base.

According to the properties that determine the use of chipboard products, the panels belong to the P-A and P-B grades, distinguished by physical and mechanical indicators.

Chipboard properties

According to their physical and mechanical chipboard properties belonging to groups P - A and P - B, depending on the components used and additives to binder resins, differ in density, strength and water resistance to swelling.

Products of the P - A brand are used for finishing in residential premises, where the release of phenol and formaldehyde from the boards, harmful to human health, does not exceed the norm.

Panels with increased emission of harmful substances are used at facilities such as auxiliary materials or temporary structures.

Chipboard characteristic

According to the properties of chipboard, they are chosen for finishing various objects. When choosing, it is important to find out everything about the panel manufacturer and view product certificates, which reflect laboratory testing of samples. The table shows the indicators of physical and mechanical properties constantly produced products.

At choice of chipboard for use in a house or apartment, we check the product for the presence of phenol and formaldehyde in the composition of resins in order to prevent the use of panels with harmful emissions.

Draft floor from chipboard on logs

The use of chipboard as a base for flooring is justified economically and technically. But, using panels, we take into account the operating conditions of products. In a room where the humidity is above 60% and the temperature is below 10°C, the plates swell and collapse.

This also applies to laying panels on the concrete floor of the first floors. multi-storey buildings. And the draft floor is made of chipboard on the logs, the right decision for long-term operation of plates. The slab base raised above the concrete creates flat surface on which the coating will last no less than the standard period.

Work order

Before laying the logs, we prepare the concrete floor, level the surface concrete screed. We lay the beams on concrete and connect them with jumpers into a rigid frame.

A heater is laid between the lags and lintels, which, together with the chipboard flooring, creates heat and sound insulation of the base. It is easy to assemble a rough floor from chipboard with your own hands, given the procedure for step-by-step instructions:

A strong and rigid frame made of beams and lintels, tightly pressed against the walls of the room and is not attached to concrete base anchors.

The use of a frame made of beams, for the base of the floor covering, allows you to separate the chipboard flooring from concrete floor and insulate the floor, keeping the heat in the room.

Chipboard floor on wooden base

Any flooring is laid on a wooden floor, but to serve normative term floors laid on a solid and even base will be able to. This base is old restored floor slats or chipboard.

Leveling a chipboard floor is a simple task and is done on your own. Getting started with the repair of the old wooden base. We check the logs and floor slats for the presence of rot, wormholes, mechanical damage and replace the defective ones. We cover the logs with an antiseptic solution, we rally the floor boards so that there are no gaps left.

We stretch the wooden coating with an electric planer, remove old paint and level the surface. After checking the levelness of the surface laser level, the base is primed.

Logs for the base frame and floor board for flooring are used with a humidity of not more than 12%. Before installation, the materials are treated with an antiseptic.

Laying chipboard on the floor, the prepared old floor covering from the floor lath, is carried out according to the scheme, which reflects the estimated number of plates. The layout of the panels on the floor of the room is made in a checkerboard pattern and provides for a compensation gap of 1.5 cm of chipboard flooring from the walls of the room.

Before assembling the flooring under the chipboard, we lay a jute underlay to level out the errors of the wooden base and maintain air exchange between the paneling and the wooden floor. We begin the installation of chipboard on the floor by processing the plates with drying oil and drilling holes on the panels for fixing screws, we cover the edges of the plates silicone sealant.

We lay the plates from the corner of the wall opposite the entrance to the room, compressing the rows of laid out panels with wedges. Plates of the first row through the prepared holes with self-tapping screws are attached to wooden floor with a gap of 1.5 cm from the wall.

So that the joints of the plates do not coincide in the rows, we lay the 2nd row with a shift by half the plate. We cut one plate in half and apply sealant to the ends. We lay half of the plates at the beginning and end of the row. We compress the row with mounting wedges and fasten the panels with self-tapping screws to the wooden base.

We lay the rest of the chipboard in a checkerboard pattern. If it is provided for in the scheme, then we cut off the last row of plates in order to lay them tightly against the wall. At the end of the laying of the flooring, we close the expansion gap with a plinth, fasten it to the walls of the room. How to level the floor with tiles this material see in this video:

If the chipboard coating was provided as a front one, then we cover the plates with two layers of wear-resistant varnish and after the varnish has dried, the coating is ready for use. And if it was planned to use the flooring from the plates as a subfloor, then we lay laminate or linoleum on it.

For the long-term operation of the floor covering, a base made of concrete, a frame of beams or a floor board is carried out without deviating from the step-by-step instructions.