Wood composite: material characteristics and applications. Which is better - a deck board made of WPC or solid wood

When choosing a material for construction, most often the owners of suburban real estate pay attention to wood. Wood from time immemorial is the most demanded product. It has many positive properties, both operational and decorative.

However, it also has its drawbacks - in particular, a strong dependence on factors environment, especially when used in outdoor structures. At present, for flooring is very popular terrace board wpk, which is devoid of the disadvantages inherent in natural wood.

Today the following types of terrace boards are produced:

• Solid wood planks. This material is made from wood species with a high resin content, resistant to moisture and mechanical damage. After laying, such boards are treated with special protective and decorative compositions(cm. ).
• Heat treated wood planks. This material is processed in special chambers at a temperature of 120-190 degrees, thereby increasing its strength, water resistance and durability.
• WPC boards.

WPC decking production

The first production for the production of WPC boards was opened in Switzerland, back in the seventies of the last century - however, the product did not immediately gain popularity. A new round of development of this direction and popularization of the WPC began in the nineties in America. In Russia, the WPC market is still in its infancy, but the trend suggests that in a few years it will become one of the largest.

Currently, factories for the production of terrace boards from wood-polymer composite are operating everywhere. The quality of manufactured products directly depends on the equipment and technology used.

Terrace board made of wood-polymer composite is produced by extrusion. Waste can be used as raw material polymer production, as well as secondary raw materials and woodworking waste. This is extremely important in today's problems with the environment and deforestation.

Stages of manufacturing decking from WPC.

Wood shredding

In the crusher, the wood is crushed and turned into crumbs. The fraction of wood powder required for the production of decking: 0.4-1.5 mm. How smaller size particles, the higher the quality of the finished product.

Drying of the wood fraction

Drying wood flour is necessary if its moisture content is more than 15%. For this, they are used different methods. The most common is chamber heat treatment.

Dosing and mixing ingredients

Different manufacturers use their own, individual manufacturing recipes. So, the content of wood flour can be 55-80%, polymer (PVC, high and low pressure, polypropylene) ̶ 20-40%.

Some manufacturers add chopped straw to the mass and rice husk. Additionally, modifiers and dyes are introduced into the composition of the product. All components are mixed as directed by the instructions. Then they are granulated.

Extrusion

At this stage, melting occurs under pressure and at a high temperature of the resulting mixture. The molten mass is extruded through the dies from the extruder, stretched, cooled and the boards are trimmed (standard board length: 3.4 or 6 meters).

The extrusion process provides high density material and minimum scrap. Production waste is recyclable.

Production equipment can be a single-stage, two-stage or three-stage line:

• One step production. In this case, all ingredients are immediately sent to the extruder, where granulation, drying, mixing and extrusion take place. This equipment provides the most convenient and fastest technological process, takes up little space, is the least energy- and labor-intensive, but it is very expensive.
• Two-stage production. Granulation and extrusion are carried out on separate lines.
• Three step line. Pelletizing, mixing and extrusion are divided into stages, and are carried out on separate equipment. This is the most budgetary production option, however, the equipment takes up a lot of space.

As a result, perfectly even boards are obtained, which are packed and sent to the warehouse.

Description of the material, types, characteristics, applications

Materials made from WPC have found their application in various fields: in furniture production, in the automotive industry, in the production of garden structures and building materials. In the segment of building materials, WPC is represented by facade boards or siding, boards for the manufacture of fences and railings, window sills, steps for stairs. Half of the total volume of produced WPC is occupied by.

Where is wood-polymer composite decking used:

• in the construction of berths and piers;
• in the arrangement of tourist and resort recreation areas;
• when arranging the territory around the pools;
• as floor covering terraces, verandas and gazebos;
• when finishing balconies and loggias;
• on the exploited roofs of buildings;
• in premises for keeping livestock;
• as the basis of sports and playgrounds;
• for the device of paths and platforms for cars.

Standard decking dimensions: width 135…165 mm, thickness 18…28 mm.

WPC decking can vary in structure and be:

• full-bodied;

These boards are very resistant to impact and point loads. They are used in places with high traffic, such as embankments, sports grounds, dance floors. Full body decking is stronger, heavier and more expensive. Withstands a load of 1000 kg/m2.

• hollow.

Such structures are distinguished by the presence of voids inside. They can withstand loads of 100-600 kg/m2.

According to the surface treatment method, the board is:

• polished
• corrugated

According to the shape of the section, the decking of the composite is divided into:

• Boards without ribs.
• Boards with closed edges.
• Boards with open edges.

The first two types are laid on the logs, the second - on a rigid base (if the ribs are wide, it can also be placed on the logs).

Advantages and disadvantages of a WPC board

Decking made of wood-polymer composite is endowed with numerous advantages:

• The material has high strength.
• Durability. Service life of products exceeds 30 years.
• Excellent moisture resistant properties. Water absorption does not exceed 5%.
• Resistance to ultraviolet radiation.
• The composite is not subject to rotting and corrosion.
• Resistance to temperature changes. Boards can be operated at a range of -45 ... + 90 degrees. Polyethylene becomes soft at high temperatures, while polypropylene becomes brittle at low temperatures. To improve these indicators, special modifiers are applied.
• High resistance to abrasion and mechanical damage. On the quality coating Virtually no scratches or chips.
• Resistance to aggressive environments. The coating is not afraid of exposure to salts, acids, alkalis, and can be treated with detergents.
• Environmental friendliness. In the production of products containing PVC, it is possible for unscrupulous manufacturers to add additives containing lead, which adversely affects human health when it is released. When used in the production of polyethylene and polypropylene, such modifiers are not added.
• Non-slip surface.
• Ease of maintenance.
• The material is easily processed (drilled, sawn).
• Attractive appearance, imitating wood structure, big choice shades and textures.

• There are many products on the market that are made either on low-quality equipment or in violation of technology. As a result, boards may have strength issues, poor heat resistance, and poor UV resistance.

Important! The low price of a decking board may mean the use of low grade raw materials and additives in its production. Please read product specifications carefully before purchasing. Otherwise, you can purchase material that will lose its wonderful properties in a couple of years.

• The presence of polymers in the composition of the decking suggests the possibility of linear expansion of the material with a change in ambient temperature. However, mounting the board using special fasteners provides the necessary mobility of the material, and hides a possible change in size.

Installation of a terrace board from WPC

Decking is laid by a suture or seamless method.

In the first case, the board is attached to the terminals, which provide even seam between boards. In the second - the boards are stacked closely using hidden clips.

Important! Due to the linear expansion of the material, this laying method is not recommended for areas larger than 10 m2.

To carry out the work, it is necessary to purchase materials.

So, in addition to the board itself, for the construction of the terrace you will need:

• Support or bearing lags:

1. The choice of one or another option depends on the structure of the terrace. If your site already has a reliable, even base: dense rocky soil, or a concrete platform, adjustable supports and support logs are used to install the frame part.
2. On weak ground, a foundation has to be erected under the terrace. In this case, it is advisable to give preference screw piles and bearing lags.

• Clamps or mounting clips:

1. Clamps are metal fasteners that are used to fix the decking to the substructure. They provide a small gap between the boards - no more than 3 mm.
2. Plastic mounting clips are also used to fasten the board to the log, but it allows you to make a gap of up to 6 mm. On average, consumption fasteners for 1 m / 2 flooring is 20-23 pcs.

• end fittings: accessories in the form of plugs, side strips and corners, used to decorate the end part of the flooring and steps - they give the terrace a finished look. They are also made from wood composite, and are selected according to the color of the board used.

As a set for decking, manufacturers also offer piles and adjustable supports. When buying materials, you should first of all pay attention to the quality of the composite.

It should be homogeneous, without any inclusions and voids on front side and slices. Too much low price material should certainly alert you - the price of 1m2 of a WPC board cannot cost less than 1600 rubles.

Tools that you will need when laying the board with your own hands:

Composite decking board decking is attached as follows:

Illustration	Description
	Before starting work, you should already have a finished base. There can be many options here: Aerated concrete blocks; Concrete foundation of tape type; Columnar concrete foundation; Brick supports; Wooden beam; Adjustable feet. There is not much difference, the main thing is that the foundation is strong.
	Logs are laid across the supports. They should be located in increments of no more than 40 cm. If high loads are applied to the surface, then the spacing of the elements should be 20 cm. If the decking will be laid diagonally, then the logs must also be placed every 20 cm.
	The lags are set so that there is no more than 40 cm from the center to the center of the elements. At this stage, they do not need to be additionally fixed.
	To fix the elements, you need to drill holes like this: In the upper part it is necessary to use a drill 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the used dowel-nail; The internal partition is drilled with the same drill as the diameter of the dowels. You just need to put in more thin drill into a wide hole and drill a log and a base under it. The depth should be approximately 20 mm less than the length of the dowel.
	The dowel is placed in the hole flush with the upper partition. Just stick fasteners in all places, fixing will be done later.
	This is how the dowel is located at the intermediate stage. It is important to get into the bottom hole so that the fasteners stand straight and do not fall.
	To finally fix the lags, you need to finish the fasteners to the end with the help of any spacer. In our case, this is a broken drill from a perforator. Since the hole is 20 mm smaller, the dowel will not go in completely. It turns out a floating mount, which does not allow the elements to move, but at the same time does not interfere with them during deformations that can occur during temperature and humidity changes. Important! Never finish the dowel to the end, the minimum power reserve for the lags must be at least 5 mm.
	From the side of the beginning of laying the terrace board, you need to put starter clips. They should stand on each log, yellow self-tapping screws 3x30 mm will be used for fastening.
	The clip must be positioned correctly. To prevent the lags from being visible from under the decking, the edges of the latch should extend beyond the end by 1-2 mm. Do not forget about this nuance when you screw the elements.
	The board is cut to the right size, if necessary, after which it is placed along the edge and snaps onto the clips. In order for the element to be fixed, it should be pressed with force so that the bracket enters the groove and holds firmly in it.
	Plastic clamps are installed so that one ledge enters the decking groove, and the lower part rests against the log. Just press the element to the edge of the board and hold with one finger. A 3x30 mm self-tapping screw is inserted into the hole, which will fix it.
	The kleimer is not completely screwed on with a screwdriver. The head of the self-tapping screw should protrude 1-2 mm above the surface of the plastic retainer. This will give a little free play to the joint and allow better joining of the next elements to be laid.
	Fasteners are placed on each lag. This is very important for the strength of the structure, it is not worth saving and putting clamps through one - the surface will subsequently walk.
	The second board is placed as follows: the element is pressed tightly along the entire length, after which it is necessary to additionally knock out all the joints rubber mallet. This will ensure the best fit and the gap will be the same everywhere.
	There should be a gap of 4-5 mm between the elements. It is necessary for the unimpeded removal of moisture and good ventilation of the structure. Thanks to the kleimers, the gap will always be as needed. You just have to tightly join the boards and fasten them.
	After laying four boards, you need to hold on to the fasteners between the first and second board. A long bit is taken, placed on the slot of a self-tapping screw and wrapped all the way. This is how the final fastening of the decking is made. The next rows are pressed in the same way. But there is no need to rush, you can only tighten the joints, starting from the second from the edge of the board, you should not immediately carry out this process.
	Work continues in the same way until you cover the entire surface. The boards are laid, knocked out with a rubber mallet and fastened. After connection, they are pulled through the slots to securely fix the WPC.
	The last deck board is fastened with metal clips. Only now they are first tightly inserted into the groove, and then screwed with a self-tapping screw. It is important to fix the edge well so that the edge board does not wobble and stands securely.
	When the work is finished, you can proceed to the installation of plugs. First, carefully consider them to figure out how to properly arrange the elements. There are always holes in the lower part to remove moisture, and on the upper part a rounding of the corner is made so as not to cling to your feet.
	Plastic elements must be placed very carefully, as they are easily damaged. First, the protrusions are placed in the decking grooves, then, holding the element with one hand, it is carefully knocked out with a rubber mallet, as shown in the photo. Try to evenly drive the plug, knocking it out from different sides.
	This is what the result looks like. It turns out very neatly, while the ends are securely closed.
	put on the edge end plate from aluminium. First, measurements are taken, and the element is cut off with a hacksaw or jigsaw. After it must be firmly attached to the surface to make sure that the corner fits well along the entire length.
	Angle is being fixed. Everything is simple here: there are recesses for self-tapping screws on the surface, so you place the fasteners with the required pitch, no instructions are needed here.
	This is what a fixed plank looks like. After that, the terrace can be used, the work is over.

As you can see, laying a composite coating on your own will not be difficult. Installation of composite decking is clearly demonstrated in the video in this article:

If you decide to make a floor covering that will have excellent performance and serve as an exterior decoration, you will certainly be interested in a WPC decking board. Having bought quality material, and laying it in accordance with technology, you will not regret your choice for many years.

Construction on a suburban area is not limited solely to the construction of a residential building. Associated buildings are also being built for recreation, storage and ancillary work, for which appropriate building materials with the necessary characteristics are selected.

From the materials used in fresh air, requires solid strength, durability and resistance to environmental influences. Therefore, for the construction of such buildings as terraces, gazebos and open areas, the highest quality material is chosen. And first of all, this applies to the floor covering, which is under greater load in comparison with other elements of the structure.

decking

For the flooring of buildings located in the open air, the reliability of the material is extremely important. Therefore, for the manufacture of the floor, as a rule, boards from solid wood are used. solid wood. However, recently a new construction material with the best performance.

This is a WPC decking board with all the advantages natural material without its shortcomings. High performance characteristics are successfully combined with ease of installation and no costs in the process of use. WPC production volumes are growing annually, for example, one of the leaders in WPC production in Russia, Smart Decking produced only 10,000 m2 per year in 2008, and in 2016 it was already about 60,000 m2.

The production of WPC involves the use of two types of raw materials - wood (mainly chips) and polymer. This combination made it possible to achieve unique strength and durability of the material.

What to choose: decking made of natural wood or WPC?

To understand which is better - wood-polymer composites or solid wood, it is necessary to consider and compare the characteristics of both materials.

The durability of WPC boards is about 40-50 years, while solid wood- about 15-20. But only if wooden plank properly soaked in all protective equipment. At the same time, the tree requires not only the initial treatment with varnish or paint, but also the periodic renewal of the coating. In this regard, a WPC terrace board is not only more convenient, but also profitable in operation, since it does not require additional care during use.

The main advantages of wood-polymer composite

In addition to durability, WPC has a number of additional advantages that determine its use as a floor covering for buildings located outdoors:

How much does a WPC board cost?

It makes sense to separately mention the cost of the WPC. At first glance, a facade board made of wood-polymer composite seems prohibitively expensive. However, if we take into account the fact that a significant part of the costs of additional expendable materials it just won’t be needed, in the end it turns out that WPC decking is quite profitable.

In addition, the installation of flooring is so simple that it can be done independently without the involvement of a specialist. The board is laid on almost any substrate, with the exception of waterlogged soil. However, after conducting a qualitative drainage system and this problem is solved.

Is it really expensive?

WPC board, the price of which is slightly higher in comparison with the array, perfectly compensates for this disadvantage with its resistance to environmental influences. This material does not swell from high humidity, does not fade in the sun and does not dry out from high temperatures.

Estimated cost for wood-polymer composites varies within 300-470 rubles. behind running meter depending on the manufacturer and brand of the product. Another factor affecting the cost of a board is the type of wood used in its manufacture. The more valuable the wood, the greater the amount that will have to be paid for the material for construction.

Terms of use for WPC boards

Even such unpretentious material to the conditions of use has its limitations in operation:

• WPC terrace board is not used in places with permanent high humidity out of the wind and sun rays. Decking in without fail must be ventilated periodically. Otherwise, even this building material may become moldy.
• It is absolutely unacceptable to use composite decking while constantly in the water.
• And the last limitation. Do not use the material in rooms where frequent and large temperature changes are possible, for example, in a steam room. This may cause the board to warp.

I must say that although wood-polymer composite decking practically does not fade in the sun, slight discoloration is still possible.

From the foregoing, we can conclude that the rather high cost of a terrace board made of wood-polymer composites will fully pay off later due to the durability of the material. While the solid wood coating will become unusable much earlier. Therefore, we can say with confidence that the future belongs to the WPC.

History of the KDP

The technology for the production of wood-polymer composite was developed back in the 70s of the 20th century with the aim of more effective use a large number wood waste. At the same time, the first material production plant appeared in Sweden. But since the technology was imperfect and the equipment wore out heavily during the production process, the experience did not become successful.

At the end of the 20th century, American manufacturers became interested in the technology. Terraces (floorings) traditional for private buildings were previously assembled from wood. But such designs required constant care and did not differ in durability. Plastic, which could also be used for the construction of terraces, was expensive in those days. Therefore, the material, which was half wood waste and half plastic, became a real find for all builders and ordinary homeowners.

At the same time, wood-polymer composite began to be actively used in Japan. They covered balconies and terraces. And in China, even sidewalks, garden paths, benches and gazebos were made from WPC

Currently composite materials literally conquer more and more new areas. The growth of the WPC market in the world is 20% per year, production technologies are being improved and become even more economical and safe for humans and the environment. And the material itself acquires new properties and in certain areas confidently displaces both wood and plastic.

have long become an integral part of almost any sphere of production and life due to higher strength, low cost and other consumer qualities.

They are especially widespread in the construction industry, where various mixtures, paints, insulation, etc. are made from polymers. Due to their qualities, polymers are gradually replacing natural materials, becoming more widespread.

Wood-polymer composites became new high-tech materials, the use of which made it possible to create boards, combining best qualities natural wood and ceramic tiles . It is about these materials that it is worth talking in more detail.

Main varieties and composition

Wood-polymer composites are a range of artificially obtained materials, consisting of a mixture of wood flour and monomers, which subsequently undergo polymerization, acquiring the necessary properties.

The material consists of four main components:

• wood. The total share is between 30 and 80% depending on the material. Most often, sawdust, seeds, crushed bark and twigs, as well as other waste from the woodworking industry are used;
• composite polymer. PVC, polyethylene, polypropylene can be used;
• chemical modifiers. Mass fraction in matter about 0.5%. Used to impart the necessary technological properties;
• dyes. Introduced into the composition of the mixture at the initial stage to obtain the necessary color shade finished products.

Particular attention is paid to thermoplastic wood-polymer composites. They have increased resistance to chemically active substances and high mechanical strength, which makes it possible to obtain from these materials not only a terrace board, but also roofing elements, and cladding panels for walls.

Terrace board made of wood-polymer composite has three varieties, depending on the percentage of chopped wood and polymer:

• 30% polymer and 70% wood is the cheapest option that currently dominates the market for finishing materials. Unfortunately, apart from the low price, such a board has practically no advantages. Due to the high content of crushed wood, the product has low mechanical strength, is highly susceptible to wear and swelling from moisture. The average service life of such a board in our climate zone is no more than 5-7 years;
• 60% polymer and 40% wood. The resulting material has high mechanical strength, is not affected by water and active chemical environments and has a very long service life. The only drawback is that the natural look is almost completely lost, and the board resembles a piece of plastic. The material is very often used to create berths and lining the space around the pools in hotels, as it is designed for high loads;
• 50% polymer and 50% wood. The most optimal ratio of the main components. The board is different natural look and has all the benefits synthetic materials- strength, durability and reliability. It has a high cost precisely due to the appearance.

Main consumer characteristics

Terrace board made of wood-polymer composite (WPC) has a number of useful consumer properties:

• high mechanical strength. One of the main characteristics that allowed the wide use of the material in the lining of pools, the creation of terraces and piers;
• a wide range of operating temperatures from -50 to +180 degrees allows the use of the material in almost any climatic zone;
• moisture resistance and resistance to ultraviolet radiation. Due to these properties, the material is used in the construction of saunas, baths, ship decks, garden furniture, fences and gazebos, where natural wood will not stand idle for a long time or maintaining its integral structure or appearance will take a lot of time and money;
• the material is not a habitat or spread of bacteria, is not subject to decay and does not change its physical properties with temperature fluctuations.

In addition to these main characteristics, high aesthetic indicators should be noted - WPC products look like they are made from natural wood, thanks to dyes they successfully imitate any species, including expensive mahogany, teak or rosewood.

The material does not support combustion, and during production or use does not emit harmful substances - formaldehydes and carcinogens.

Ways to install a decking board from WPC

There are only two main options for laying such a board - seamless montage or using seams. Each of them has its own characteristics during installation, as well as advantages and disadvantages that should be considered before purchasing a specific decking board.

In the first case, the elements have a special lock on the side faces - a tenon-groove, through which the boards are fixed to each other. The parts are fastened with self-tapping screws directly to the support beam through special holes that are closed by the adjacent board. The coating looks integral and monolithic, however, to ensure drainage, it is worth laying with a slope of 2-3 degrees.

In the second case, boards are installed on the main logs with a small gap of about 1 centimeter using a kleimer ( special kind fasteners made of plastic or metal). The advantages of this mounting method are high speed installation and excellent drainage through the seams.

As a disadvantage - garbage can get into the seam, when installing terraces in suburban areas weeds can grow through the seams. There is also a possibility of deformation of the flooring elements due to indirect attachment to the guide.

Results

Wood-polymer composites are new, high-tech materials that have excellent consumer characteristics and a lower price than natural wood. This allows the material to be used in various facing works indoors or outdoors, and creating finishes for specific designs– yachts, moorings, swimming pools, saunas and baths.

Due to the fact that WPC appeared no more than 10 years ago, the demand for them is constantly growing at a fairly high cost, which is beyond the reach of most consumers. Over time, there is a trend towards a slight decrease in cost due to the discovery and implementation of more economical technologies.

Wood and plastic are well-known and widely used materials, each with its own pros and cons. Until recently, the disadvantages of using plastic and wood have been minimized by special additives and impregnation, but modern technologies allow you to create completely new, revolutionary materials. One of them is called wood-polymer composite (WPC), or simply liquid wood.

In fact, a wood-polymer composite is a cross between wood and plastic. It is made from crushed wood with the addition of polymers (polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, etc.) - the particles of the materials are mixed, after which, under the influence high temperature and pressure, the mass is given the appropriate shape. The content of wood in the material can be up to 90%. In this combination, WPC acquires the positive properties of wood and plastic, and its use provides a number of advantages.

WPC - composition

Like any other material, wood-polymer composite has a number of disadvantages that should be considered when buying and installing it.

Based on all of the above, WPC has much more pluses than minuses, and in the future its price may significantly decrease, since waste from the woodworking industry can be used to manufacture the material.

Well-known manufacturers of WPC facade boards:

• DeckMayer (Germany);
• TM Tardex (Finland);
• EcoDecking (Russia);
• Legro (Hungary)
• Eternal tree (Russia).

Wood-polymer composite products

The range of products that can be made from WPC is not the most extensive today, since the properties of the material have not been fully studied, but all products have already gained considerable popularity among consumers.

In addition, WPC products are often used for the manufacture of fences, railings and small architectural forms(for example, gazebos). They have good bearing capacity and can be used in crowded places.

A board made of wood-polymer composite can have different colors and shades, be absolutely smooth or have an embossing that completely imitates the structure of wood. This allows you to implement any design solutions, as well as select a board, taking into account the peculiarities of the architecture of the building and the surrounding landscape.

How to choose a facade board from WPC?

For the manufacture of a facade board from WPC, wood flour is used, the quality of which has no special significance, but special attention should be paid to the binding components. The material based on polyethylene and its derivatives is quite cheap and contains a large number of wood, but at the same time it is highly susceptible to fading in the sun. Another type of material that is made with using PVC, more resistant to temperature extremes, ultraviolet and fire, and also twice as durable as analogues.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a WPC facade board

Proper installation of wood-polymer composite is the key to durability, reliability and attractive appearance of the finish. The facade made of WPC panels and boards belongs to the so-called ventilated facades, which have a number of advantages over other structures. Despite the fact that the installation process in this case is quite simple, it requires compliance with some important rules.

1. A WPC board is not recommended for cladding buildings made of hollow materials (for example, aerated concrete), as it requires the installation of a massive frame that can damage the walls.
2. Store material should be stored in a dry place in horizontal position so that the board does not bend. If it is stored outdoors, the boards must be covered with an opaque material.
3. Do not pay attention to the fact that between individual elements there may be slight differences in shades. This may be due to the use of different raw materials and WPC processing technologies, but it ensures that the finished surface will have a natural look.
4. Before proceeding with the installation, it is advisable to place the material for 72 hours so that it has time to acclimatize. Work can be carried out at temperatures from -10 to +35 degrees.
5. It is very important to use only high-quality hardware, preferably galvanized or stainless steel.
6. Before installing WPC panels, it is necessary to install a rigid frame made of composite logs, galvanized or aluminum profiles on the building. It is not recommended to use wood for this purpose, as it is too exposed to atmospheric influences and can lead to deformation of heavier WPC panels. If you need to mount wooden grate nevertheless arose, you need to choose durable wood processed in the factory (for example, bog oak).
7. The wood-polymer composite is not suitable for operation in closed areas and in places with high humidity(for example, in baths).
8. Cladding with wood-polymer composite panels should not be made directly from the ground, but only from the basement of the building.
9. Additional elements for decoration finished facade it is better to buy from the manufacturer of the material. If this is not possible, their technological and design features, otherwise they can spoil the appearance of the facade or even make it less reliable and durable.
10. Before installation, be sure to check the material for damage and cracks.

Another important point is that during installation it is necessary to maintain the distance necessary for the thermal expansion of the material, which depends on the environmental conditions.

The installation of WPC panels is carried out in several stages, each of which is very important for the final result.

Stage one. Preparation of tools and materials

In addition to panels made of wood-polymer composite (the calculation must be carried out taking into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facade plus 10-15%), the following materials will be needed for cladding:

In addition, to perform the work, it is necessary to prepare a number of tools, including:

• electric drill;
• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• manual circular saw;
• a hammer;
• level (length not less than 60 cm);
• metal scissors;
• joiner's square metal;
• ruler, tape measure, pencil.

Stage two. Surface preparation

Before mounting WPC panels on the walls, they must be prepared accordingly. All unreliable or worn surface elements should be removed, replaced or cleaned. If there are remnants of the old coating on the walls (for example, plaster), they must be removed and, if possible, removed drainpipes, fixtures for fixtures and protruding window sills.

The walls should be cleaned of dirt and dust, and treated with means to prevent the development of harmful microorganisms and fungal spores. Work can only be carried out on condition that the surface is solid, clean and dry.

Stage three. Frame installation

The frame is a very important part of the hinged ventilated facade, on which the durability and reliability of the entire finish depends. First of all, you need to make a project and develop wiring diagrams so that the crate is installed appropriately, after which you can proceed directly to the work.

The frame can be mounted in three ways: using aluminum profiles (well processed and dried wooden beam), wood-plastic profiles or L-brackets and profiles.

Option number 1. aluminum profiles(wood). The advantages of such a frame are ease of installation and low cost. For the crate, it is not recommended to take an untreated or wet timber, as there is a possibility of the entire structure being skewed.

Option number 2. WPC profile. A fairly simple and reliable frame, which is mounted to the walls with the help of dowel-nails.

Option number 3. L-shaped brackets or profiles. A universal design that makes it possible to use insulation of any thickness, and L-shaped profiles compensate for all drops and surface distortions. Facing material in this case, it is attached to the frame with the help of clamps.

The sequence of actions when installing a frame from a profile for a ventilated facade is as follows.

Step 1. Determine the installation height of the facade along the perimeter of the wall, as well as vertical and horizontal levels.

Important: at the joints of the panels, a wider profile must be installed (you can use two intermediate elements installed side by side).

Step 2 Using a pencil and a level, mark the walls vertically - it will serve as a guide for mounting the brackets, and the interval between the marks should be 30-50 cm.

Step 3 Attach the brackets in one vertical line, starting at the corner of the building. Installation is carried out as follows: holes are drilled on the surface at intervals of 40-60 cm, then brackets are attached using anchors or dowel-nails.

The extreme rows of elements are installed at a distance of no more than 20 cm from corners and slopes. Above and below the facade, the brackets should be mounted horizontally, the distance is 10-15 mm from the wall.

Step 4 Attach the first profile to the brackets (again, you should start from the corner of the building), then screw the second profile on the other corner, aligning them in one line. Next, attach the brackets to the entire wall, except for window openings, and fasten the profile to them, constantly checking the evenness of the frame. It is recommended to fasten the profile with two self-tapping screws to each bracket, screwing them into pre-drilled holes.

Step 5 In a similar way, assemble the frame for the remaining walls, and then install the end, corner and docking strips in the right places so that the structure is a single whole.

The wooden crate is mounted in the same way, only instead of brackets, ordinary logs are used, which are attached to the wall with screws.

Stage four. Insulation installation

Installation of insulation is carried out if it is planned by the project. Insulation allows you to get rid of the so-called cold bridges that form between the frame and the wall. The choice of method depends on which type of material was chosen, since each of them has its own styling characteristics.

Important: a special membrane with a vapor barrier effect must be placed under any insulation and on it. As a result, it should be as if packed in a membrane bag - without this, the material can get wet and completely lose its properties.

1. Basalt or mineral wool fastened to the surface using dowels made of plastic with wide hat. First you need to drill holes in the surface to a depth of 5-6 cm, then insert the dowel there and fix it with a spacer nail. On the square meter material is taken about 6 dowels.
2. For polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam, glue is used, and the material must be laid in at least two rows, and the joints must be foamed. This is best option for residential buildings, providing complete thermal insulation.

The thickness of the insulation should be equal to the thickness of the frame elements so that the finished cladding does not deform or sag. Important: to insulate a ventilated WPC facade, it is not recommended to use cheap and low-quality material, as they tend to caking, which is why they cease to perform their functions, and fungi and mold can begin to multiply under the facade.

Stage five. WPC board installation

To fix the WPC board on the frame, special clips and self-tapping screws and screws are used (recommended length is 20-25 mm, width - 2.5-3 mm), as well as clamps. Installation must start from the bottom corner of the building and continue horizontally, laying the boards in rows, and it is important that there are ventilation joints between the wall in its upper and lower parts and the mounted facade for ventilation.

Step 1. Drill a hole at the very bottom of the frame, and its diameter should be slightly larger than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.

Step 2 Insert the front board, fix it with a clip and a self-tapping screw, screwing it as perpendicular to the surface as possible so as not to damage the material. When tightening the screws, do not use too much force, as this can cause deformation or cracking of the board. It should not “sit” too tightly, otherwise, with thermal expansion and contraction of the material, the facade may crack.

Note: if clamps are used to fasten the board, make sure that they fit snugly, but without effort, into the longitudinal grooves.

Step 3 Insert the retaining clip into upper part boards of the first row and install the next board, securing it in the manner described above. Each panel is recommended to be fixed to the profile with two self-tapping screws, and special attention should be paid to the joints of the profile and the board (in these places the fastening must be especially strong). The subsequent upper rows of panels are best mounted with a slight offset of the seams.

Step 4 For the finishing row, the boards, if necessary, must be cut, and when fastening, provide a technical gap of at least 10 mm wide between the adjacent surface and the edge of the board.

Installation option for DKP siding without clamps

Step 1. Having slightly bent the panel in the center, apply the ends of the panel
castle parts

Step 2

Step 3

If it becomes necessary to dismantle the panel, the work should be done in the reverse order: pull out the screw and carefully remove it with a hook. To make the design look aesthetically pleasing, corners and joints can be closed with special additional elements.

Care of the facade from the WPC board

The wood-polymer composite facade does not require any special care– you can wash the surface with a hose, and clean with simple household means. Strong contamination is best removed immediately, and for this it is allowed to use a sink high pressure(maximum 80 bar, minimum distance from the surface - 20 cm). Grease and oil stains are removed with household chemicals which is suitable for wooden and ceramic surfaces using a medium hard brush. After the procedure, be sure to rinse the facade with water.

It should be noted that the most difficult material to care for is facade board light colors, as it has a relief surface in which dirt and dust can accumulate. If in the process of cleaning on the boards formed small scratches, they can be removed by grinding.

To prevent the appearance of mold and fungus, it is necessary to thoroughly wash the WPC facade during the flowering period of grasses, when pollen can fly in the air, and also strictly follow the instructions for laying the material.

Wood-polymer composite board is a revolutionary material that combines unique natural characteristics wood with practicality and excellent operational properties plastic. The use of WPC for the installation of ventilated facades ensures that the finish will retain an attractive appearance for a long time and will fully perform its functions.

Facade decking - WPC board

Video - Facade composite board