Installation of a wooden floor in the garage. Laying a wooden floor in a garage, installation technology, what materials to choose. Chipboard and plywood floor in the garage

The garage serves not only to protect the iron horse from car thieves or weather conditions, but also acts as a kind of repository of "very necessary" things. One way or another, a lot of time is spent in it, in connection with this, motorists approach its arrangement with special care. The owners select material for the construction of walls and roofs based on two main criteria: taste preferences and the financial side of the issue. Unfortunately, the organization of the floors is given less attention. The article will discuss how to make a wooden floor in the garage with your own hands.

Types of flooring

The most common types of floors are earthen and cement, less common are wooden flooring. The first two options are ideal if the room is used for intensive use for its intended purpose. The floor from the boards is relevant when vehicle operated in the warm season or on weekends.

Below is a brief description of the most popular types of material used for arranging the floor in the garage.

Concrete

• Such floors are made with strict adherence to technology, otherwise through a short time cracks will appear on the surface, which will lead it to complete disrepair. Well, if you follow all the rules, then such a floor will last at least 20 years.

• Of the shortcomings concrete base low resistance to abrasive wear can be noted, which leads to the formation of dust. In addition, the spilled liquid penetrates deep into the pores and remains there forever. A polyurethane coating can act as a savior, but its cost annuls the affordability of a concrete floor.

Plates

• Ceramic or porcelain tiles are distinguished by both aesthetics and practicality. Their surface is simply incapable of absorbing liquid substances, a upper layer glaze is easy to clean even without the use of special cleaning compounds.

• Porcelain stoneware is a rather expensive pleasure for arranging a garage. Preparation of the base, and the installation itself requires labor-intensive work. The material is recommended to be laid 2-3 years after the completion of the garage, that is, when the structure shrinks.
• At ceramic product there is also a significant disadvantage - low resistance to mechanical shock. And, as you know, the fall of various pieces of iron, especially in such rooms, is not at all uncommon.

Wooden floor in the garage

• The lowest price for a wooden floor in the garage, in addition, such a floor is considered warm. Therefore, it is much more pleasant to repair a car or inspect it while lying on your back.

Wooden floor in the garage photo

• Of the minuses, high absorbent properties can be noted. Do not forget that the tree is classified according to its resistance to decay and is divided into fire hazard classes. But processing with modern protective equipment will extend the life of the flooring and protect it from the effects of fire.
• Of course, the floors can be covered with special rubber tiles, which are certainly not afraid of any load. As already mentioned, the choice of coverage rests on material possibilities.

• In any case, if the arrangement of the floors is carried out on their own, then you can save quite a decent amount on the purchase, for example, tools, spare parts for a car, hinged shelves or racks for storing various inventory.

How to make a wooden floor in a garage on an existing base

Installation of the material must be carried out on a solid foundation so that the work done and the investment made are not in vain.

Laying on a concrete base

• A flat surface with minor imperfections, such as surface cracks and chips, allows the floorboard to be mounted on top of it. Lumber is fastened with screws and plastic dowels or anchor bolts.
• If the floor has large irregularities, then it is recommended to fill in the screed, which will provide not only the same level on the entire surface, but also strengthen the base.

• Before work, make sure that cement coating completely dry. You don't need a device to do this. special purpose. You can also determine the humidity using an improvised method; for this, a small square of plastic or a piece of film is hermetically attached to the surface with adhesive tape.
• After a few days, the material is removed if inside many large drops are found, then it is still impossible to lay the board. In this case, it is necessary to give the base more time to dry or take additional measures to reduce moisture. A slight condensate allows the planned work to be carried out.
• In any case, polyethylene or roofing material is first spread out, which will prevent moisture from entering the base base. Laying is carried out with spades on the walls and the width of the overlap of the material must be at least 10 cm. The seams are glued with adhesive tape or moisture-resistant mastic.

Laying on logs

• If the surface is relatively flat, then the boards can also be mounted on pre-installed logs. Here, bars of small section (50x50 or 40x50 mm) are fixed on a concrete base along the perimeter of the room. The same lumber is used as cross members. For more reliable fixation, the logs are attached to the bars using metal corners. They are installed parallel to the entrance / exit of the garage with a step of no more than 50 cm.

• Here it should be remembered that the level of the floor will rise by 70-80 mm, depending on the width of the selected lumber, for example, a 50 mm beam and a 25-30 mm floorboard. Thus, a difference is formed, a step between the floor and the entrance to the room.

Laying on a wooden surface

• Strengthening an existing plank floor by attaching new floorboards is possible only if there is full confidence that the structure can withstand severe loads. If there is even the slightest doubt, then the old coating must be dismantled.
• Here, the log and other wooden elements are inspected, the damaged parts of the frame are replaced. At capital works a layer of waterproofing material is laid. It is advisable to fill the space between the lags with expanded clay or dry sand, the floors will become warmer.

• The satisfactory condition of the old coating allows fastening the boards, but only in a perpendicular direction.

Wood processing

It would not be superfluous to mention that wooden elements need to be treated with protective equipment. Preparations are selected individually, since some are responsible for the uniformity of shrinkage, reduce cracking, others guarantee protection against decay, and others prevent ignition.

It is worth noting that it is not advisable to purchase miraculous “5 in 1” solutions, since one remedy cannot simultaneously protect against all “misfortunes”. Therefore, when going to the store, it is better to have at least a basic knowledge of their classification, their purpose, and the best manufacturers.

Protective compounds are divided into 3 types:

• Lucky after drying, they form a transparent film, which has bioprotective properties, that is, it protects the surface from premature decay, damage by woodworms. Such coatings exclude cracking of the material and do not lose their original qualities under the influence of temperature changes.

• Paints not only give decorative appearance, but also protect the painted elements from the short-term influence of moisture (periodically formed condensate). For processing, it is better to select paint based on organic solvents.
• Antiseptics- these are multifunctional products that can protect wood from biodegradation (mold formation, the appearance and spread of house fungus). Combined variant antiseptics and has fire-fighting properties.

The lag is coated with water-repellent agents, which are characterized by a deeper degree of penetration, or antiseptic impregnations based on solvents, which form a thick protective film. Borate- and fluoride-based preparations are ideal.

You can use an oil analogue, only here you need to make sure that the lumber being processed is absolutely dry, otherwise the wet inside of the material will contribute to the development of fungal spores, which in turn will lead to its complete destruction.

Floorboards are treated with preparations that provide effective fire protection and contain copper hydroxide.

Top Producers

The top three included companies that produce the most effective means for the protection of wooden surfaces:

• from domestic producers "Wood healer", "Bioks", "Biosept";

• foreign brands represent - " TIKKURILA" (Finland), "Dulux" (England), "ALLICATOR" (Germany).

Folk recipes

Since ancient times, wood has played an important role in national culture, so people have always been concerned about how to protect buildings from the harmful effects of adverse conditions. Over such a long period of time, many effective methods have accumulated:

• silicate glue diluted with water, about 1 liter of water is taken 400 grams of glue;
• copper sulphate, also known for its bactericidal properties (100 grams of vitriol is diluted in 10 liters of water);
• boric acid is a popular "preservative". The solution is prepared as follows: for 5 liters of boiling water, 50 grams are taken boric acid and 1 kg of salt.

The device of a wooden floor in the garage from scratch

Do-it-yourself wooden flooring in a built garage can be done in a matter of hours, since logs are usually laid at the stage of foundation construction. But, if the construction was carried out in a lightweight version, then more time and effort will have to be applied.

• The zero level of the future floor is determined. As a rule, the "threshold" of the garage is taken as the basis. The soil is selected by about 50 cm, more accurate calculations are made as follows: 10-15 cm will “leave” on a sand cushion, 10-15 cm - a crushed stone layer, 10 cm - a section of a beam (log) and the thickness of the floorboard is added 2.5-3 cm.
• Each layer is moistened and compacted. For this, it is not necessary to apply special equipment. Suitable here homemade tool, where a square piece of board is attached to the end of the bar with a section of 50x50 mm with nails or screws, which will be used as a sole.

• Be sure to line the waterproofing material with an overlap on the walls, slightly exceeding the zero mark. The joints of the material for sealing are glued with construction tape or smeared with mastic.
• All wooden elements are treated with antiseptic and fire retardant preparations.
• A beam of 100x100 mm is installed along the perimeter, such a section will help distribute the load of both the flooring itself and the weight of the car. In the corners, lumber is fastened with metal corners. The level checks the horizontal position, if necessary, trimmed plywood or boards are placed.

• Parallel to the entrance, lags are installed from the same beam. The distance between them is maintained within 50 cm, but no more. Fixation is carried out with self-tapping screws and L-shaped metal products.
• Expanded clay or dry sand can be poured into the formed cells.
• Floorboards are laid on top, located along the movement of the car. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws in two places to each lag.

Wooden floor in the garage step by step video

Material calculation

For arranging wooden flooring in the garage standard size 3x6 m, you will need:

• timber 100x100 mm - 32 m;
• metal corner - 32 pieces;
• floorboards 25x150x6000 mm - 20 pieces;
• wood screws 4.2x65 mm - 570 pieces or 2 kg.

• For a tighter and more secure fit of the floorboards to the logs, it is recommended to drill holes for hardware, with a drill with a diameter of 0.5-1 mm more thickness self-tapping screw. The same applies to corner metal fasteners.
• Before proceeding with flooring, strips of rolled roofing material should be glued to the edges on both sides of each board, or fixed with a construction stapler.

Compliance with all the rules and technology for arranging a wooden floor in a garage will allow you to repair a car in comfortable conditions even in winter time.

For some car owners, the garage is the place where he spends a very significant part of his free time. And therefore it is quite logical that there is a desire to ennoble it somewhat. You have to start from the floor. Why? Yes, because you walk on it, drive a car, lie under the car, put things and tools. In this article, we will dwell on how to make a wooden floor in the garage with your own hands - quickly, efficiently and inexpensively for the family budget.
Why will we make it wood flooring? And because it is the most the best way: the tree is relatively inexpensive, easy to work and install. And since this is the room where the car, gasoline and chemical substances, then the covered floor must be resistant to these factors. In order for the wooden floor in the garage to serve you for a long time, carefully read the tips below.

Training

First, you need to prepare the garage itself: take out all the excess, throw out all the garbage. The room should be covered with plastic wrap. To purchase wood flooring should also be taken very seriously. Wood should not be too dry or vice versa - too wet. This will affect how and how much it will serve you. When choosing boards to do the installation of the floor in the garage with your own hands, be sure to make sure that there are no boards on the boards (well, or at least it was smaller) various defects- blue, knots, cracks, rot, etc. Boards must be taken with a thickness of at least 3 cm, but it would be better if you take it with a margin. If the boards are of decent thickness, then there should be a minimum distance between the lags. If there is an opportunity and means, then it is better to immediately take the material prepared for laying - the so-called grooved boards:

Thanks to special docking elements - protrusions and grooves along the length of the board - you will not have to deal with gaps during installation and installation. Such a wooden floor will be easy to process and paint! If you have a standard garage, then you will need 6-meter boards.
To flooring walked for a long time, it must be placed on brick or concrete columns, or on a concrete base. By the way, last option the most convenient and fastest - you don’t even have to align it. If in the future there is a desire to replace the boards with tiles, then this will not be difficult either!
The latter option is most suitable for making a do-it-yourself coating, since when replacing it, you can use boards or tiles.

Laying wooden floor on concrete

In order to make the floor in the garage with your own hands, you will also need the so-called "lags".

In their quality, it is best to use a beam with a section of 10 × 10 cm.
I would strongly advise wood with an antiseptic or flame retardant before installation. This will protect it from instant fire and rotting in the future.
It is necessary to impregnate the boards on the street with a brush or roller. After impregnation, they must also be dried.

Garage floor made of grooved boards

If you have a concrete base, then you will first need to lay the waterproofing.

To do this, you can spread the usual roofing material, overlapping stripes. At the same time, the distance between the lags should be 0.4-0.5 m.

If this is not done, then the floors will be deformed under the wheels of the car due to its large weight.
The first logs are made at opposite walls at the same distance. Then a thread is pulled between them and intermediate logs will already be mounted along it. To ensure that the surface is even and without distortions, be sure to use the building level. If you are faced with the fact that the base itself is crooked, then you will have to put wedges of wood under the logs.
The logs, placed according to the level, must be firmly attached to the concrete base with the help of long dowels.
Next, you can start laying the floorboard. All of them should be of the same thickness - thanks to this, the load will be distributed more or less evenly.
Lay the floor boards tightly and end to end, avoiding gaps.
To ensure that the boards are knocked down tightly during installation, use spacers. Wedges are perfect for them. Reiki to the lags are attached with nails or self-tapping screws.

Do-it-yourself garage floor made of chipboard or plywood

To make the floors in the garage yourself from sheets of plywood or chipboard, you still have to first pour the leveling concrete layer. The thicker it is, the longer your coating lasts. If a small layer of concrete is expected, then the base should be reinforced with a metal mesh with a bar diameter of at least 1 cm.
To create a durable wooden floor for the garage, you should buy the thickest plywood, and not simple, but not moisture-permeable.
Chipboard boards are not recommended for use due to the fact that they do not tolerate temperature changes and therefore quickly collapse.
After the plywood laying is completed, close the joints between the walls of the garage and the coating with a regular baseboard. The floor itself is recommended to be first treated with drying oil and then painted.
If this is not done, then in the future, during the operation of the car, it will be difficult for you to remove oil and gasoline from the surface of the garage flooring.

Laying the floor on the ground

Another option that owners of metal garages usually resort to is laying a wooden floor in a garage on the ground.

To do this, you also need to prepare - remove the fertile soil layer from the inside of the foundation and replace it with a sand-gravel mixture and clay. Compact the embankment well. The edges of the wooden beams will rest on the sides of the foundation. As supports between the beams, it will be necessary to make brick columns. To do this, dig holes 40 × 40 cm so deep that they coincide with the deepening of the main foundation.
The first row of supports from the wall is usually done in increments of 50 cm, and the subsequent ones at a distance of 100 cm. There should be at least 55 cm between the beams.
A layer of coarse gravel of about 20 cm should be poured into each of the pits. Then concrete with a fine fraction should be poured into it to ground level.
After the concrete hardens, lay out the brick columns in 3 rows. Make sure they are the same height.
Between the brick and concrete, on top of the supports, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing roofing layer. So that the floor covering in the garage does not lead in the future, the open area of ​​\u200b\u200bclay must also be closed with roofing felt waterproofing.

For beams, you need to take a beam 20 cm thick. To increase rigidity, you can put it on the edge.
Logs should be made perpendicular to the entrance so that there is a gap of 3 cm between them and the wall. Wooden flooring is laid along the direction of movement of the machine. Then they must be securely fastened. The beams are placed on posts so that there is little space under them for air circulation.

Underfloor heating in the garage

In order to make it comfortable to work in the garage even in the cold season, it will not be superfluous to immediately insulate the future floor. This is easy and inexpensive.
First, a draft floor is placed on the beams. Next up is waterproofing. polyethylene film over which insulation is placed.
For insulation, it is better to take sheet, roll or backfill material. Extruded polystyrene foam is considered the most effective.

It will also need to be covered with waterproofing and sheathed along the logs with a floorboard.
After the floor covering in the garage is completed, it will be necessary to clean it from building dust and dirt. It might even be better to go over it with detergent.
Good luck!!!

Car owners are very scrupulous about arranging their garage. This is due to the fact that the room is used not only to protect the car from external threats but also for other associated purposes. For example, repair work or hanging out with your friends. There are many available on the market. However, not all of them can boast such a deliberately comfortable advantage as the presence of good heat-conducting properties. And in this regard, the wooden floor in the garage is admirable. Next, we describe why wooden flooring is so good and how to make it with your own hands.

Specific gravity wooden floors in the total mass of garage flooring is growing steadily every year. This is due to the undeniable advantages of wood, which are worth listing:

• The thermal conductivity of the material makes the inspection or repair of a car much more comfortable, especially if it needs to be carried out in a supine position;
• The durability of wood will be much higher if the material is pre-treated with protective mastic or special means that protect it from moisture and fire;

Important. Modern wood impregnations allow wood to absorb excess moisture into the premises, protecting it from dampness and maintaining physical characteristics floor covering.

• Ease and speed of replacement of damaged flooring elements;
• A competent approach to choosing the thickness of the floorboard will provide the required strength, which is in no way inferior in this regard to other types of coating;
• Ease of installation wooden planks allows you to manage on your own, without the involvement of experienced professionals;
• Wooden floors in the garage do not generate dust;
• The budget cost will pleasantly please car owners.

The disadvantages include the following points:

• Attractiveness of wood to insects and some species of rodents;
• The susceptibility of the material to odors and stains, which are very difficult to get rid of later;
• Susceptibility to the harmful effects of moisture, if the wood has not previously been treated with moisture-resistant agents;
• Depending on the type of wood, the price of the finished coating can vary greatly.

Wood floor protection

Since most of the disadvantages of wood flooring can be negated by following certain rules, then it is worth paying attention to them special attention. We are talking about the use of special varnishes or impregnations, which can significantly increase the life of wood, making it better. performance characteristics. In particular, such as resistance to moisture, increased wear resistance, improved fire safety and many others. All these special means can be classified into the following types:

1. Antiseptics - penetrating deep into the wood and protecting it from the destruction of the substance. They are also an excellent protection against small rodents, decay processes. Give wood flooring fire retardant properties;
2. Wood varnishes - forming a protective coating on outside wooden boards and preventing it from abrasion, physical damage;
3. Paints - perform faster decorative role, however, also protect the coating surface.

The order of protective work must follow a certain sequence of steps. So, first of all, the wood is thoroughly dried, then treated with antiseptics, and only after that you can proceed to applying varnish or paint.

The procedure for laying a wooden floor, surface preparation

Installation work must be carried out on a solid foundation so that you do not have to regret later on the money spent. That is, first of all, the installation of a wooden floor in the garage provides for surface preparation. Order preparatory work in that case it should look like this:

1. Purchase required material in the required quantity;
2. Cleaning the surface from dirt and excess objects;
3. Laying concrete screed with reinforcing mesh;
4. Laying a waterproofing film;
5. Layer of heat-insulating materials;
6. Installation of transverse logs;
7. Installation of wood flooring;
8. Applying special protective equipment to the floor from the boards in the garage.

To carry out such work, the following materials will be required:

• Medium-sized crushed stone for the base of a concrete screed;
• Cement with river sand for solution;
• Metal mesh with wire for reinforcement;
• Roofing material or a special film can act as waterproofing;
• Mineral wool or expanded clay as a heat insulator;
• Wooden beam for mounting transverse logs;
• Wooden boards for flooring.

Note. On the market, you can find already tongue-and-groove boards with special grooves provided. Their acquisition will help to seal the joints.

Choice of wood

For arranging a wooden floor, it is not recommended to use red rocks or a beautiful walnut, it is better to use them for other purposes. Strong oak or durable species are most suitable. coniferous trees also known for their abrasion resistance. The material of the boards should be free of cracks and taken with some margin.

Sand-cement screed

Before laying the floor screed, a half-meter layer of soil should be removed and the plane should be leveled with a level. Next, you should tamp the surface of the subfloor, if it is loose, pour a layer of sand, and on top of the same - gravel. On the formed "cushion" a reinforcing mesh is installed from metal rods. They must be evenly tied with wire to form square cells. The resulting mesh is installed at some elevation from the top layer of gravel and then pouring follows. concrete mortar. The thickness of the liquid layer should be about 10 cm. While there is an opportunity, the surface of the solution is carefully leveled, after which they are waiting for drying.

The degree of humidity is determined by placing a piece of film on the surface and fixing it with tape. If after a few days there is still condensation or large drops on the reverse side of the film, some more time is needed for drying. Next, you should clean the plane and do the styling waterproofing materials with a slight overlap on the walls. The roofing material must prevent the penetration of moisture, for which its seams are covered with bituminous mastic.

Cross lags

Bearing beams with an average section value are installed at a distance of half a meter across the garage room and connected with dowels to the screed. For a strong fixation, it is possible to use metal corners with a small step. Be sure to leave a gap between the walls and the ends of the logs, since wood tends to become wider or narrower, depending on the level of humidity. Between themselves, the bars are connected by boards, and the places of all fasteners are lubricated with bituminous mastic. Also, it will not be superfluous to have a gap between the surface of the screed and the lags, which will ensure free air circulation. Through wooden spacers it is also possible to eliminate the unevenness of the cement screed.

Note! Do not forget that depending on the width of the bars and the thickness of the boards, the floor level will rise slightly. This should be provided so that the resulting drop near the entrance to the garage does not come as a surprise.

thermal insulation

Since the garage is planned to be used during the cold season, the required level of comfort cannot be achieved without this procedure. In order to preserve heat, as a rule, mineral wool or expanded clay is used. The thermal insulation is placed as tightly as possible in the cells between the installed lags so that there is no free space. The situation is similar with expanded clay, which should be compacted before laying a transparent film on top of it.

Laying boards

Directly laying sheet pile products is much easier than all previous work. It starts from the far corner and is carried out in a checkerboard pattern so that the ends next to each other do not match. The key point here is the density of the seams, to achieve which they are treated with silicone sealant.

Finishing flooring

After all work is completed, the dirty wooden floor in the garage should be thoroughly cleaned and treated. For this, construction debris and dust are removed, then the wood is impregnated with an antiseptic. Further, it becomes possible to apply protective paintwork materials to the surface of the boards.

Advice. To increase the service life of the flooring, it is recommended to additionally lay rubberized flooring (floorboards) in the traces of the wheels, that is, in the direction of the vehicle. They will be fastened with self-tapping screws in pre-drilled holes.

Conclusion

These recommendations are a universal answer to the question of how to make a wooden floor in a garage with your own hands and are applicable as instructions for laying this flooring. Let be installation work and do not look the lightest, however, a competent approach to their implementation will provide a warm and durable floor covering. The environmentally friendly floor will best friend car owner who likes to tinker with the device of his car. The material has both its advantages and disadvantages, but knowing about them, they can be leveled. Or maybe choose?

With special attention should be paid to the floor. If the surface becomes damp, emits a lot of dust, and cannot withstand the load, this will negatively affect the safety of the car. There are several ways to make a floor in a garage with your own hands, each of which has its own advantages. A concrete screed is considered a classic base, but other floor options are also in demand: earthen, self-leveling, wooden, and even tiled.

The cheapest floor is earthen. It does not require financial costs, has a very simple device, but at the same time it has low strength and highly absorbs moisture. Such coverage can be done temporarily if the construction budget is very limited. Also, this option is suitable for those who do not often use the garage, and most of the time is on the road.

The process of arranging an earthen floor is very simple:

You can do without clay, but it significantly increases the strength of the floor and provides good protection from moisture.

Concrete floor

Concrete screed is the most popular coating in private garages. Such a floor can withstand very strong and uneven loads, is not afraid of fire, is resistant to various oils, solvents and gasoline, and is durable. Concrete can draw moisture, but the correct arrangement of the floor completely eliminates such risks. Although the amount of work is quite large and will require a lot of time and physical effort, the process itself has a simple technology.

Construction stages:

• manufacturing viewing hole;
• floor level markings;
• soil preparation;
• backfilling with sand and gravel;
• laying waterproofing;
• reinforcement;
• floor filling.

All work is carried out after the completion of the construction of the garage, but before the start interior decoration premises.

Step 1. Preparation of the pit

Not a mandatory element of every garage; it is only needed for those who independently repair their car. It should be noted that a pit cannot be made in a site where the groundwater level is 2.5 m. A place for it is usually chosen in the center of the room, departing a certain distance from the entrance.

Having determined the location of the pit, they dig a pit. Its parameters are:

On the ground, mark the boundaries of the pit and begin to dig. During work, you need to ensure that all walls remain as vertical and even as possible. After excavation, the floor is compacted with a rammer, then a thin layer of clay is poured and rammed again. Next, the bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of roofing material, the edges of which lead a little to the walls. A concrete mixture is poured over the roofing material to a height of 7 to 10 cm. The top of the concrete is leveled and left to dry. It is not necessary to cover the pit while the solution dries.

Step 2. Laying the walls

When the pit is hardened enough, you can lay out the walls. For these purposes, red burnt brick and aerated concrete blocks are best suited. Laying is carried out immediately around the entire perimeter; it is impossible to lay each wall separately. So, the first row is laid in level, leaving about 15-20 cm between the walls of the pit and the brick. The protruding mortar is immediately removed with a trowel so that when finishing the pit, it is not necessary to knock down the hardened concrete.

All subsequent rows are laid out with offset vertical seams, which helps to strengthen the walls. To keep the masonry vertical, every 2-3 rows are checked with a level; at a time it is not recommended to build more than 6 rows of bricks. The last row of bricks should be 6-7 cm below the threshold level. Subsequently on brick walls a metal corner will be laid, which should not protrude above the floor surface.

Step 3. Pit waterproofing

After two or three days, the walls of the pit can be waterproofed with outside. Using a dense roller on a long handle, the brick surface is coated with a primer and left to dry. Next, the bituminous mastic is heated, and it is applied to the walls with the same roller. dense layer. Backfilling with soil of free space behind the walls of the pit is carried out after the mastic has completely dried. Clog voids with soil should be layered with obligatory tamping, otherwise under concrete pavement the earth will sag and cracks will form.

Step 4. Marking the floor level

The markup is done with a laser or water level, the usual building one is not suitable here. With a laser level, the whole process will take a matter of minutes, but marking with a water level will take more time. For convenience, marking is done at a distance of 1 m from the subfloor, and then transferred to the zero mark. So, first, 1 m is measured from the threshold upwards and a mark is made with a pencil. Then one end of the level is attached to the mark, and the other to the adjacent wall, where the water level in the tube will show the location of the next mark.

Thus, 2-3 marks are left on each of the walls; after that, 102 cm are measured down from the upper beacons and marks are also made with a pencil. It remains only to beat off the marking line with a coated cord, and the zero level is determined.

Step 5. Preparing the base

In the process of building a garage, excess soil and construction debris remain inside the building. All this must be removed, and then additionally remove another layer of earth to a depth of 30 cm. The depth should be the same over the entire area, so all visible irregularities should be cleaned off with a shovel. With the help of a rammer, the soil itself is carefully compacted, then a layer of sand and clay 3-5 cm thick is covered, spilled with water and again taken up by the rammer. The higher the density of the base, the stronger the floor will be.

Step 6. Arrangement of a sand and gravel pad

The thickness of the gravel layer is 10 cm. If the garage is large, it will be difficult to pour a layer of the desired thickness without additional measurements, so you can simplify the task. To do this, wooden pegs of the desired height are driven into the ground, placing them in even rows. Having fallen asleep gravel to this level, you should tamp it well, pull out the pegs and fill the voids with the same gravel.

In a small garage, you can do it differently: in each corner and in the middle of the walls at a level of 10 cm, you need to put a bright mark. This technique will help to quickly fall asleep gravel, without wasting time on measurements. The next layer is sand; it can be fine or coarse-grained, even with an admixture of clay, but without debris and large clods. sand cushion for greater compaction, they are spilled with water and rammed again. Finally, the base plane is checked with a large building level or rule to avoid the formation of bumps.

Crushed stone with a diameter of 40-50 mm is poured onto the sand, the thickness of this layer is about 5 cm. The surface is leveled, compacted, covered with a small amount of sand and moistened. They ram again, trying not to leave sharp protrusions. In conclusion, the base is poured with lean concrete, the layer thickness of which is 3 cm. The lean one is kneaded in the following proportion:

• 1 part cement;
• 3 parts of sifted sand;
• 6 parts of small gravel.

This solution has low strength, but it perfectly levels the base under the screed. Concrete is poured onto rubble, leveled over the entire area with a rule and left to dry.

Step 7. Waterproofing the floor

When the concrete dries, it is treated with any primer mixture. Special membranes are used as waterproofing, roll materials, bituminous mastic and liquid rubber. Ruberoid, film, membrane are spread on the floor, and the edges lead to the walls. Cloths are necessarily laid with an overlap of 10 cm. Very often, roofing material is laid directly on hot mastic, then the canvas is tightly glued to the base and reliably protects the floor from moisture.

Step 8 Reinforcement

For reinforcement you will need metal grid with cell sizes of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. It is cooked from reinforcement with a section of 5 mm. The grid is laid so that about 5 cm remains between its edges and the walls. The same distance must be left around the perimeter of the viewing hole. In addition, the mesh should be slightly raised above the surface, so plastic or metal supports 2 cm high are placed under the bars.

Step 9 Install Beacons

To make the floor perfectly flat, you need to make a screed along the beacons. Such beacons can be metal corners, a profile, but it is most convenient to use steel pipes of small diameter, for example, 25 mm. To fix the guides, a little solution is kneaded, and the pipes themselves are liberally lubricated with machine oil. Lighthouses should be located in even horizontal rows, the distance between which is 1.2-1.5 m. Along the wall, piles of mortar are thrown onto the floor every 15 cm and the first pipe is laid on them. Using the level, set it horizontally and at the same time level it at the zero mark. When all the guides are installed, you should once again check their horizontal. To do this, the level is placed perpendicular to 2 or 3 lighthouses.

Along the perimeter of the garage, it is necessary to leave small gaps between the screed and the walls 1-2 cm wide and fill them with damper tape. This will help to avoid damage to the coating when shrinking the garage. Now there remains a frame of corners for a viewing hole. A steel corner 50x50 mm is cut into 4 parts according to the size of the pit and welded in the form of a rectangle. Finished frame primed and dried, and then laid on brick walls. If desired, you can paint the corner with red lead - this will be additional protection against corrosion. Under the weight of the concrete solution, the frame may be slightly deformed; to prevent this from happening, the corners should be strengthened with temporary struts from a bar.

Step 10. Filling the screed

First you need to calculate the approximate volume. To do this, the floor area is multiplied by the height of the screed, which is 5 cm. For example, if the area is 35 square meters, then the screed will require at least 1.75 cubic meters concrete mix. A solution is being prepared in a ratio of 1: 3, and it is better to take cement grades 400-500, and sand can be replaced with screenings.

The solution should be sufficiently thick and homogeneous, so it should be mixed very carefully. The finished mass is poured between the beacons so that the solution covers them, and then metal rule run along the pipes and pull together all the excess. The rule must be pressed strongly on both sides and driven evenly, then the surface of the screed is simultaneously compacted and leveled.

1-2 days after pouring from the screed, carefully remove the guides. Since the pipes were lubricated with oil, this process will not require much effort. The grooves from the lighthouses are filled with the same solution and the surface is left to dry. To avoid cracking, it is recommended to moisten the floor regularly; you can also cover the surface with wet sawdust and periodically spray them with water. After 10-12 days, the sawdust is swept away, and the floor dries already in the open state. The complete drying of the concrete screed usually takes about 4 weeks.

Ceramic tile flooring

This option is quite costly, since the quality floor tiles it's expensive. But such a floor looks great, is easy to clean, emits very little dust. Tiles must be purchased with a wear resistance class of at least 5, and if there is no heating in the garage, then frost-resistant. Laying is recommended to be done no earlier than 2 years after the construction of the garage, otherwise the coating will deform during shrinkage.

For work you will need:

• primer;
• tile adhesive;
• ceramic tile;
• notched trowel;
• level;
• plastic crosses for seams;
• grout.

Step 1. Preparing the base

On a concrete base. If the rough screed has been damaged during operation, all irregularities must be repaired cement mortar, clean it of dust and cover with two layers of primer. High-quality screed is easy enough to prime.

Step 2: Finishing the floor

The adhesive composition is diluted according to the instructions and allowed to brew for 10 minutes. Part of the adhesive is applied to the back of the tile, the rest is applied to the floor with a notched trowel. Apply the tiles to the floor, smooth and gently press. Plastic spacers are inserted between adjacent fragments, which ensure the uniformity of the seams. After leveling, check with a level so that the floor is perfectly flat. Glue must not come into contact with front side ceramics, all accidental splashes and smears are immediately wiped with a rag.

Step 3. Grouting

After laying, you need to wait 3 days and wipe the seams. For this, a special composition based on cement is used. The seams are moistened, and then the working mixture is applied with a rubber narrow spatula. After filling the seam, the excess is removed with a neat sharp movement. When the process is completed, the grout is allowed to set for half an hour, after which the seams are washed with a damp sponge. You can drive into the garage by car after 2 weeks, when the glue is completely dry and the floor acquires the desired strength.

self-leveling floor

Self-leveling floor is expensive, but the benefits of such a coating fully justify the cost. The service life of the self-leveling floor is at least 40 years, it has a very high strength, is easy to clean, does not burn, has an ideal flat surface. Epoxy and polyurethane industrial mixes are best suited for the garage. You can do the installation yourself, because the pouring technology is very simple.

We prepare the surface - we take out all the excess

Step 1. Preparatory work

The rough base is cleaned of dust and everything is sealed. Recesses with a depth of more than 3 cm are also filled with mortar and dried. After that, the floor is treated twice with a primer.

Decorative "chips"

Step 2. Pouring the mixture

The floor solution is prepared exactly according to the instructions, otherwise the quality of the coating will decrease. During operation, the temperature in the garage should not be less than 10 and above 25 degrees. If the room is large, the filling is carried out in stages, dividing the area into several sections. Level the mixture with a spiked roller, carefully removing air bubbles. Drying will take about 20 days, after which the coating is ready for use.

In the course of pouring, we scatter the “chips”. We enjoy the result

Wooden floor

Wood floors in garages are very rare. Despite the ease of installation, low cost and environmental friendliness of the material, such a coating is not popular. Even the densest wood cannot withstand the stress of a car for more than 5 years. In addition, a wooden floor is flammable, and in a garage where gasoline, oil and thinner are stored, this is doubly dangerous. If you still have a desire to floor, the installation technology is simple and straightforward:

• the concrete screed is cleaned and primed;
• timber for logs is processed and dried;
• install logs on concrete in increments of 1.-2 m, fixing with dowels at a distance of 50 cm;
• lay intermediate logs every 40 cm;
• the wooden frame is covered with waterproofing material;
• boards are stuffed perpendicular to the lags.

The boards must be very dense, with a thickness of 40 mm or more, be sure to be dry. To extend the service life, the floor must be primed, treated with a flame retardant and painted.

Wooden floor can be insulated with expanded clay

Video - Do-it-yourself floor in the garage

Landscaping a garage starts with choosing the right flooring. The problem has many solutions, boardwalk is one common option. It can spread on the ground or concrete screed. Having studied the features of the process, how to make a wooden floor in the garage, you will be able to do the work on your own.

Features of a wooden floor

There is no consensus on the practicality and comfortable operation of the boardwalk. To finally make sure that the chosen solution is correct, studying the features of the wooden floor in the garage will help. The advantages include the following:

• Long service life. Pre-treatment of wood flooring protective compounds significantly extends the life of the floor. Wear time largely depends on the intensity of use of the garage.
• If a separate section of a wooden floor is damaged, it is easy to replace it with new material.
• It is much more pleasant to inspect or repair a car on wooden surface than on a cold concrete screed.
• Properly selected material can compete in strength with a concrete base.
• Simple installation allows you to design your own wooden floor in the garage.

Comment! The use of wood impregnation helps to reduce moisture in the garage, which slows down the process of body corrosion.

Any garage floor covering has disadvantages, with regard to wooden flooring, the following negative points should be noted:

• Wood actively absorbs foreign odors. It is almost impossible to remove a stain from accidentally spilled oil or gasoline, and the specific aroma will remind you of the incident for a long time, especially when the engine is running.
• The cost of the material fluctuates different regions, therefore, from an economic point of view, it is sometimes more profitable to decorate a garage with floor tiles.
• The wood floor is not moisture resistant, so there is a risk of rotting. It can be damaged by rodents and insects.

The treatment of wood coating with protective compounds, which will be discussed later, is able to prevent the problem.

Wood flooring protection

Before starting installation in the garage floor of wooden boards, care should be taken to protect the material. Application various formulations in the form of impregnations, varnishes and paints improves the performance of wood.

All the variety of protective equipment is conditionally divided into three groups:

• Antiseptics and flame retardants. Protect the wooden floor in the garage from damage by rodents, rotting as a result high humidity, provide fire resistance.
• Wood varnishes. Protective film slows down the process of floor abrasion and reduces Negative influence mechanical loads.
• The functions of paints are similar to those of wood varnishes and additionally play a decorative role.

Advice! Before proceeding with the processing of a wooden floor, the material is thoroughly dried and treated with antiseptic substances. The combination of compositions depends on the purpose of the garage and the likely risks.

Installation of a wooden covering on a concrete screed

The installation process is preceded by the study of the floor device, drawing up detailed plan actions, purchase of material. There are several technologies on how to decorate a wooden floor in a garage with your own hands. The following option is considered optimal:

• Formation of a cement screed reinforced with reinforcement.
• Installation of a waterproofing layer.
• Improve quality characteristics the floor from the boards will help its insulation, although this stage is not mandatory for the garage.
• Strengthening the lag.
• Floor board installation.
• Treatment of a wooden floor with protective structures.

materials

The list of materials for arranging a concrete screed on the garage floor with subsequent coating of wooden flooring:

• crushed stone of large or medium fraction to form a pillow;
• cleaned sand for cushion and concrete preparation;
• get a strong screed will allow cement grade M400 and higher;
• the function of waterproofing will be performed by polyethylene or roofing material;
• on the transverse joists there is a bar with a section of 200x 200 mm;
• insulation is created by expanded clay or mineral wool;
• installation of the flooring is carried out with a board whose thickness exceeds 3 cm.

The dimensions of the board are largely determined by the mass of the car and the intensity of operation of the garage. The use of tongue-and-groove boards greatly facilitates the installation process due to the presence of grooves, and a tight connection contributes to the formation of sealed joints.

Preparatory work

Work on arranging a concrete screed in the garage as a subfloor under wooden flooring consists of the following steps:

After the concrete base has dried, they proceed to the arrangement of waterproofing. The installation of the material comes with an overlap on the walls, the achievement of tightness is facilitated by the design of all joints with adhesive tape.

Installation of beams

Logs under the wooden floor are made of timber 200x200 mm. If a material with a cross section of 150x200 mm is used, installation is carried out on the edge to increase rigidity. There is a specific installation order:

• Beams are placed across the garage with an interval of 0.3-0.5 m. The optimal gap depends on the thickness of the wooden floor and the mass of the car.
• Laying boards should be done perpendicular to the beams.

The main steps in the process of installing a log for a wooden garage floor:

• The tree has the ability to deform when the level of humidity or temperature changes, so a gap of 2-3 cm is left between the end of the beam and the wall.
• The use of a level during laying will ensure the stability of the lags. Wooden spacers will help correct the slope.
• Air circulation is necessary between the beams and the concrete screed subfloor. To this end, a gap of 2-3 cm is formed using the same wooden spacers.
• The edges of the logs rest on a grillage, column or plinth about 10 cm high.

Installation of beams is carried out in a direct way or with strapping around the perimeter of the garage.

Warming

Installation in the garage of wooden floors provides for the implementation of thermal insulation.

Comment! The process is optional, but in the absence of a heating source, it will help to keep warm during the cold period.

Expanded clay and mineral wool have suitable properties. The material is distributed into free areas between the beams.

When making a heat-insulating layer with mineral wool, it is necessary to lay mats with maximum density, the presence of free space is not allowed. To preserve the operational characteristics of the material will help its impregnation with flame retardants and antiseptics. This measure will prevent the risk of ignition of mineral wool and its damage by bugs. If expanded clay performs the function of insulation, it is poured between the lags and carefully compacted. Reach maximum effect heat preservation will help the additional application of the existing transparent film insulator on top. This is especially important if the wooden floor of the garage will be laid with a non-grooved board.

Finishing the floor

The final stage of arrangement in the garage of a wooden floor will be the installation of boards. The process does not contain complex steps, key point is to maintain the tightness of the seams. Strengthen the tightness of the wooden floor will help Preliminary processing silicone joints.

Installation begins from the far corner of the garage. The boards are laid in such an order that the end connection of the first row is not next to the junction of the next, that is, the chess method is used.

When the installation of the boardwalk in the garage is over, they proceed to the processing of the wooden covering. Before applying varnish or paint, the wooden floor is cleaned of dirt and dust, antiseptics and other protective equipment are applied. After drying, proceed to decorative design garage floor. paints and varnishes are selected taking into account their purpose for wooden surfaces.

Advice! Areas where it is planned to contact the wheels of a car with a wooden floor can be decorated with a rubberized coating. This helps prolong the life of the boardwalk.

Arrangement of a wooden floor on the ground

It is faster, easier and cheaper to equip a wooden floor in a garage without first decorating a concrete base. The technological process consists of the following stages:

The areas where it is planned to find the wheels of the car are strengthened with additional props. It is also desirable to equip this place with stronger lags.

Instead of brick supports, installation in the garage of a wooden floor can be done on columnar foundation done by myself. For this, holes are prepared with a drill, into which a pipe made of roofing material is inserted. A reinforcing frame is installed inside and poured with cement mortar.

The remaining stages of arrangement in the garage of a wooden floor are carried out similarly to the described process of laying on a concrete base.

Conclusion

Despite some shortcomings, a wooden floor can become a reliable garage cover, subject to technological process laying and processing for the purpose of protection.