How to close the groove in chipboard. Finishing the ends of chipboard with PVC piping. Application of garden pruner

1. Main material: chipboard

Surprisingly, wood in its purest form is the lot of expensive "elite" furniture. In cabinet furniture, wood is almost never found.

The main material from which cabinet furniture is made is laminated chipboard (LDSP). Usually these are plates with a thickness of 16 mm. Also on sale are sheets of chipboard with a thickness of 10 mm and 22 mm. 10 mm chipboard is used as a filling for the blind doors of sliding wardrobes, and 22 mm for shelves in bookcases, where required great durability to loads, and the usual 16 mm chipboard can seriously sag under the weight of books.

Also, sometimes 22 mm parts are used as design elements of furniture products, bringing originality to the design (for example, on top of a regular 16 mm cabinet cover, you can put a protruding cover 22 mm thick more dark color). Such delights are economically feasible only for mass production, since you always have to buy a whole sheet of laminated chipboard for cutting. Usually, all parts of cabinet furniture (except doors and facades) are made of 16 mm chipboard.

The chipboard is sawn into special machines along the guides. Of course, at home, you can saw something off with an electric jigsaw - but at the same time, the edges of the seam will be "torn", and the seam itself will probably wag from side to side. It is almost impossible to achieve a straight saw with a jigsaw.

2. Edges

Saw chipboard - is the most ugly and vulnerable place - moisture easily penetrates through it and the material swells and deforms. Therefore, it is recommended to cover all ends of chipboard with special edges. Several types of edges are known:


. ABS edge- an analogue of the PVC edge from another, more environmentally friendly plastic. In addition to environmental friendliness during disposal, other differences are more likely invented by marketers. It's not even for sale in our city.


. Wooden and veneered facades- will delight lovers of natural products. True, in the modern plastic world, such facades are quite expensive. Yes, and evil tongues claim that there are so many varnishes and impregnations in this wood that there is only one name from the wood. At the very least, manufacturing companies strongly recommend regular maintenance of such facades with special chemicals.

. Facades under enamel- painted facades. Their main drawback: the coating is very easily scratched, deformed, and is not resistant to chemicals. Previously, they were used only because of the saturated bright colors. With the advent of acrylic plastics on the market, the demand for painted facades has decreased significantly.

. Facades made of aluminum with glass- made in high-tech style. They are beautiful and modern, but difficult to manufacture and require non-standard fittings for fasteners, often installed simultaneously with the production of the facade.

4. Back walls and bottom of boxes.

Usually, the back walls of furniture, like the bottom of the drawers, are made of HDPE. At the same time, its front laminated side looks inside the drawer or cabinet. The HDF color is matched to the color of the HDF used. Sheet thickness is usually 3-5 mm.

At one time it was fashionable to put such a wall on brackets using furniture stapler. This is wrong - the staples hold for a limited time, and no matter how strong the structure seems to you immediately after assembly, after a few years it may well disperse under pressure or deformation. It is especially wrong to put the bottom of the drawers on the staples, which constantly experiences tear loads. So forget about the furniture stapler - it is applicable only in upholstered furniture.

Sometimes fiberboard is inserted into the groove- but for this technology, this groove needs to be milled, and at the same time, all dimensions of the product must be exactly up to the millimeter.

Sometimes the back walls and the bottom of the boxes are made of chipboard. It is practiced to create " stiffening ribs"in tall cabinets, and in those drawers where there will be a very heavy load (20 kg and above). The back wall of the cabinet can be equipped with one or more stiffening ribs from chipboard, and the rest of the space can be filled with HDPE.

5. Countertops

table top- horizontal working surface, where people constantly work (cook food, eat, write).

Most office desks and cheap options dining rooms are limited to a worktop of the same material as the table itself. It can be chipboard 16 mm or better 22 mm, chromed with a 2mm PVC edge.

For kitchens, special countertops are used. Usually they are a sheet of chipboard with a thickness of 28-38 mm, covered with plastic using postforming technology. This plastic is quite durable. If the cut of the tabletop is gray, this is ordinary chipboard, if it is blue-green, then moisture resistant. correct kitchen countertops equipped with a strip of silicone - the so-called " drip tray", which prevents spilled liquids from flowing down onto kitchen furniture.

The weak point of such countertops is the edges of the cuts. They are usually edged with melamine in the color of the tabletop when it is cut. But melamine is afraid of moisture, and often the edges become unusable after a year of operation. Therefore, for the ends of the table top, it is recommended to use a special aluminum profile, having previously thoroughly smeared the saw cut surface with silicone sealant. There is also a profile for joining worktops at a right angle - without sawing them and fitting each other - such a profile is very convenient to use in corner kitchens.

It is not customary to make holes in the tabletop (they spoil the smooth surface of the table and then dirt clogs in them), so such a tabletop is usually screwed on from the inside self-tapping screws to horizontal struts. In this case, the screws should not be too long so as not to pierce the cover through.

Countertops made of natural or artificial stone . Products made of natural stone are very heavy and require additional care due to the porosity of the material. Artificial stone is devoid of these shortcomings. In addition, an artificial stone countertop can be given almost any size and profile. The only drawback of such countertops today is their price.

6. Location of parts

We have come to those sections that will form your final understanding of how to make cabinet furniture. So first let's talk about relative position details.

Detail- this is any element of cabinet furniture: bottom, cover, sidewall, back wall, facade, shelf. So, every detail can be nested, maybe overhead.

Consider this thesis on the example of two kitchen cabinets. One will stand on the floor (with legs) and the other will hang on the wall.

Floor cabinet:

As you can see from the figure, it is best when the operating voltage (and for a floor cabinet it is directed from the cover down) naturally transmitted through wooden details to the place of contact of the product with the support - on the legs of the cabinet (see diagram "correctly").

In the second, "wrong" version, the voltage is transmitted to confirmation(this is such a special furniture screw, we'll talk about them a little later) - and the effort will constantly try to pull it out of the wood for a break.

Second example: wall cabinet .

Here, the opposite is true: the force is applied to the bottom shelf by the things on it, and the attachment point of the cabinet is higher than the force application point. Natural way (joint wood boards) we will not transfer the force upward. Therefore, the voltage will necessarily be transmitted through the fittings.

If we make here the same construction as in the floor cabinet (see diagram "wrong") - all four confirms will experience a constant force pulling out from wood. Therefore, we choose the worst of two evils: it is better for the confirmers to experience the effort to break(see diagram "correctly").

At first glance, this seems complicated, but trust my experience: after the third designed and assembled product, you will already intuitively, without hesitation, determine where this or that part should be located.

7. Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware, which serve to connect furniture parts. Most often, such a connection is made at a right angle of 90 °. all modern types of furniture fasteners are very well described, with detailed description their advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a quick look at those with which we will not have to work.


. Eurovint (confirmed)- a special furniture screw. The most common fastening of cabinet furniture. Confirmate is especially well suited for beginners - since it does not require precise fitting of parts - you can drill a hole for it already "in place", during the assembly process of the product.

Have you noticed that self-tapping screws are almost never used to connect parts? That's right, in the furniture business they are replaced by confirmations. Due to the shape ideal for 16mm laminated chipboard, they have a significant large area threads and hold much stronger than self-tapping screws.


To drill holes for confirmations, it is required special drill- it was not easy to find this in our provincial town. In principle, if there is no such drill, it’s not scary: you can get by with three drills of different diameters: for threading, a neck and a confirming cap.

Confirmations come in several sizes. Usually used 7x50. When drilling for confirmation, special attention should be paid to the perpendicularity of drilling - so that the drill does not “run away” and pierce the wall of the part to be drilled.

Confirmations are twisting screwdriver with hexagonal bit or manually special hex key. Confirmations made under a Phillips screwdriver are not the correct confirmations! You will never be able to tighten these screws all the way.


The main aesthetic drawback of confirmations is hats that remain flush, but still noticeable. To hide them use plastic plugs inserted into hats. The color of the plugs is selected in chipboard color.

. Eccentric couplers- the most correct modern look furniture fixture. Leaves no traces front side products, only from the inside. Main disadvantage- Requires very precise drilling, including aligning the holes on both sides and limiting the drilling depth (so as not to drill through).

For drilling additives for eccentrics, a special tool is usually used. Forstner drill. It is realistic to do it manually - but it is very difficult, it is better to have a drilling machine.

If you collect furniture, the ends of which will not be put on public display, but will be hidden (for example, a kitchen cabinet or a wardrobe in a niche), then there is no point in bothering with eccentrics. Use confirmations.

8. Furniture fittings




More hinges can be adjusted in height and depth of planting. This allows you to more accurately align your locker door. There are also inset hinges - when, when the door is closed, the facade is recessed inside the cabinet (rarely used). There are a number of loops for glass doors, in which you can firmly clamp the glass without drilling.

Buy only quality products well-known manufacturers(From inexpensive, we can recommend Chinese Boyard) - so that you do not have problems with them in the future. Of the major global manufacturers - Austrian Bloom, but it is expensive and you still have to try to find it.

9. Drawers and their guides

There are many ways to make furniture drawers. The easiest way is to make the perimeter of the box (sidewalls, front and back wall) from chipboard. This method is described in detail and with illustrations. The only thing I disagree with the author is that instead of nails for attaching the bottom, I would use self-tapping screws.

If you want to beautiful facade, then it is screwed with screws to one of the sides of the box into the overlay, as shown in the diagram in section 5 (in this case, the role of the countertop will be played by the facade of the box).

But collecting the box is half the battle. The main thing is to make it open and close. That is, put it on the guides.

Drawer guides There are two types: roller and ball.

. Roller guides - usually white, attached to the bottom of the box. The box on such guides rides on two rubberized rollers, rumbles due to its unstable position, and at the point of maximum exit it strives to fall out of the guides from any sharp push. Such guides are bad in that a heavily loaded box will try to tip over from any position when it is extended more than halfway. The only advantage of such guides is the price: about 30 rub for a couple.

. Ball guides - or as they are commonly called "guides full extension". These guides are a telescopic structure that can exactly double its length. Inside they contain several dozen balls (as in bearings), which ensures the drawer runs smoothly. The guides are rigidly fixed with self-tapping screws to both the cabinet and the drawer, which eliminates the possibility overturning, and does not allow the box to "go off the rails" regardless of the load and the speed of the jerks.

The process of mounting the drawer on full extension ball bearings is well described. The price of such guides is approx. 100 rub per set. It is very disappointing to see when in a kitchen with a total cost of more than 40 sput, the manufacturer presses and installs roller guides, while saving 70 rubles. I want, you know, to take and strangle for such a swine attitude towards the buyer. So if you order a kitchen, immediately specify what type of guides the drawers will have.

. Metaboxes- a solution first proposed by an Austrian firm Bloom. The idea is to save the craftsman from the need to attach the rails to the box, and sell ready-made side walls, with built-in guides, openings for the facade and grooves for the rear wall. Having bought a metabox, you just have to hang a facade on it, put in a back wall and a bottom (by the way, many metaboxes are designed for a bottom made of chipboard and not fiberboard).

Guides in metaboxes are roller. Accordingly, the metabox is not a full extension product. Blum metabox price: from 300 before 500 rub. Now many companies, including Chinese ones, produce products with the name "metabox", which has already become a household name. Here is a good article on calculating and assembling a metabox.

. Tandemboxes- a more technological solution of the same company. If the metabox rides on roller guides, then the tandembox rides on full extension ball guides. The number of balls in them is several hundred. The tandembox is usually equipped with an automatic closer and shock damper (BluMotion system) - which provides a surprisingly pleasant and soft closing of the drawer (always full closing) with one push.

For tall drawers, tandemboxes can be equipped with one or two additional stops. Manufactured tandem boxes white color and stainless steel. The latter, of course, are twice as expensive.

If you happen to be at a furniture show, stop by the Blum booth. You can’t even imagine how pleasant and high-quality the usual furniture fittings can be. But the tandembox costs accordingly: 1000-2000 rub per set.

10. Doors for wardrobes

The last thing worth talking about in our furniture educational program is wardrobes. In general, the kitchen and wardrobe are the most accessible and interesting areas for a novice furniture master. Well, not counting, of course, bedside tables and shelves. Furniture for the living room and bedrooms usually requires a serious design approach, the use of non-standard or difficult-to-cut materials: natural wood, tempered glass. With kitchens and wardrobes - everything is simple and clear.

The sliding wardrobe comes in two versions: with walls (side and back) and without them. the last option is just a part of the room (usually a niche) fenced off by sliding doors, inside which you can do whatever you want: shelves, drawers, hangers, and a bunch of other interesting things. Here are listed and given photos of the most common elements of filling wardrobes.

The most interesting and attractive mechanism in the sliding wardrobe is its sliding doors. You can’t skimp here, and you need to purchase only high-quality fittings - otherwise you will then suffer with falling and jamming doors so that you yourself won’t be happy. In our city, from a decent one, they sell only sliding systems domestic firm Aristo, however, the reviews are quite worthy.

The sliding wardrobe usually contains two-three doors. Each door is a canvas enclosed in a special frame made of decorated aluminum profile. At the same time, the door does not have to be homogeneous - it can be created from two or more different canvases connected at any angle using a special profile.

Traditionally, the frame profile for sliding wardrobe doors is designed for a leaf thickness of 10 mm. For the manufacture of blind doors, 10 mm chipboard sheets are usually used. Special sheets can serve as a design alternative to it. rattan(decorative braid), bamboo, and even faux leather(based on chipboard or MDF).

With the help of special silicone seals, 4 mm is easily inserted into the profile mirror. The main thing is that those who will cut mirrors for your cabinet do not forget to apply a special elastic film on its reverse side, which will hold the fragments in the event of an impact. Even if the child breaks mirror surface this will greatly reduce the risk of injury.

In order for the doors to move, guides are attached from below and above. The lower guides of the sliding wardrobe provide opening/closing of the door, the upper guides ensure the fixation of the door relative to the depth of the cabinet. The bottom rollers are usually made of plastic, equipped with a shock-absorbing spring and a height adjustment screw. The top rollers have a rubberized surface.

To obtain Additional information on self-manufacturing cabinet furniture, I strongly recommend reading the following resources:

. http://mebelsoft.net/forum/- Forum of professional furniture makers. Perhaps the largest and most popular resource dedicated to this topic.

. http://www.mastercity.ru/forumdisplay.php?f=19- City of masters, section "furniture and interior design". Those who try to do everything with their own hands gather here.

. http://mebelsam.com- Do-it-yourself furniture. Many articles and examples of a wide variety of technologies, not only cabinet furniture.

. http://www.makuha.ru- Furniture directory. Beginning portal, but already contains interesting articles.

Well, our little furniture educational program has ended. I hope you are now full of strength and determination to make cabinet furniture with your own hands. Add a little imagination here in the choice of colors, edges, fittings and curly cuts - and you will get the opportunity to make the furniture that exactly what you need.

And it's not even about what happens cheaper and often better than in a store. And not that you no longer limit yourself to factory models. The fact is that things made by you, things in which you have invested your soul, your enthusiasm and skill - keep the warmth of your hands. I think it's important.

It's no secret that chipboard ends can be processed different materials, such as pvc edge, melamine edge, and, of course, pvc edging.

Let's talk about trimming chipboard with pvc edging. Methods depend directly on the variety facing material- mortise edging with or without girth, or laid on edging.

PVC mortise edge with girth:

Pvc mortise edging without girth:

PVC overlay:

You can read more about the types of flexible profile in this.

First of all, an important fact is the temperature in the room in which the work will take place, as well as at what temperature the profile was stored. Strong temperature fluctuations will affect the rigidity of the profile and the processing of the part.

PVC edge is produced directly under a certain thickness chipboard. At the corners of the part, the edging is not cut; for facing adjacent ends, the corner is smoothly rounded.

Perhaps the most commonly used mortise profile. T-shaped piping has a spike (leg), for which a groove is made at the end of the chipboard, coinciding with it in width and depth. This groove is made with milling machine or a manual cutter. It is optimal if the cutter leaves a groove 0.5 mm wide and a tooth height of up to 2.8 mm.

Before making a groove for the edge with a cutter, it is necessary to grind the edges of the chipboard board so that when the edge of the edge is stuffed, no chips are formed on the laminate. The edging is clogged with a rubber mallet, the excess ends of the edging that go beyond the chipboard are cut off with a knife or secateurs.



Can show enough complicated process edging. However, after watching the video below, you will see the opposite.

Furniture makers are constantly improving production. like this unusual way trimming was invented by furniture manufacturers:

In this case, a conventional pneumatic hammer with a nozzle was used, which was fixedly fixed on a workbench.

As you may have noticed, when using such a tool, the facing speed is much higher, which means higher productivity.

Using overhead (C-shaped) piping You don't need any power tools.

It is enough to have a knife and glue on hand.

To increase adhesive adhesion on inner surface profiles are sometimes scratched with a knife.

However, on inside the profile offered by our company already has the necessary "factory" transverse notches, which significantly improve adhesion.

After that, glue is applied to the inner surface of the edging, often using liquid nails. A slinkon sealant is perfect if you want to protect the chipboard from moisture as much as possible (for example, if bathroom furniture is made). Then the edging is sequentially put on the end of the chipboard. The exposed adhesive is removed.

When processing curved sections, where the edge forms a bend, the already pasted profile is fixed with adhesive tape. Unlike the mortise edge, which you quickly and easily stuffed onto the part, when processing the overlay profile, it will take some time for the glue to dry.

Our company is pleased to manufacture and supply flexible profiles in various colors.

To order or select the profile of the decor you need, contact us in any way convenient for you.

Along with the usual , for framing chipboard ends PVC edging is used. Typically used in places high humidity, a high risk of mechanical damage or based on design decisions.

Distinctive PVC feature edging from is that it is made immediately for a specific thickness of the slab, where it is not allowed to trim the excess in width. The most common width sizes are 16.18 and 32 mm.

Also, the mounting technology of this profile does not allow its joining at the corners. For example, to edge two adjacent ends, it is necessary to round the corner (at least along the smallest radius).

  • Consignment note (U-shaped)
    • Hard
    • Flexible
  • Mortise (T-shaped)
    • Without girth
    • With girth

Laid on U-shaped edging

Working with such PVC edging for furniture is not at all dusty, and you can even do it at home.

Hard click and done

It is used for edging straight ends of chipboard. It is also possible to trim the ends of chipboard with a small rounding radius. Of the tools, only hands and the edge itself are needed. Just snap the profile on the end, and you're done. And the side ends are closed with special plugs.

It is thanks to this method of installation that they love it. But it also has its drawbacks, which manifest themselves in the impossibility of edging rounded (radius) parts.

Flexible

Such edging can be used as a furniture edging for facing chipboard ends, both straight and rounded. For installation you will need a sharp knife and good glue. If there are concerns about moisture penetration, use silicone sealant in excess instead of glue.

To improve adhesion between the edge and the end of the chipboard, the inner surface of the profile can be scratched in different directions sharp object(knife, screwdriver, scissors).

The stiffness of this profile is also affected by the room temperature. Therefore, it is recommended to fill it in a warm room, where it becomes softer and more “obedient”.

Further, everything is simple. We apply glue or sealant to the inside of the edge and glue it to the end of the chipboard. We iron it well, and also remove excess glue. Trimming the edges of the edging is done only after a two-hour exposure, when the glue grabs. Well, the complete drying of the glue will come only after one day.

You can trim the excess profile along the length with a sharp knife or garden pruner.

Mortise PVC T-profile

T-shaped edging is quite often used in the manufacture modern furniture. This is not surprising, since it has a number of undeniable advantages:

  • posh appearance(structural, matte, glossy and reflective surfaces),
  • strong fastening,
  • Hides chips and irregularities on the ends of the plate,
  • Easy to mount on complex parts with both outer and inner radius.

The only negative T-profile PVC can be called the need for milling a groove. For milling we need manual frezer with a 2.8-3 mm cutter, as well as a special room, since there will be a lot of dust, but we don’t need it at home.

But still, this minus is not so terrible as to completely abandon this type of edging of the ends of the chipboard.

Types of T-profile

Mortise T-profile happens:

  • no girth,
  • With girth.

It can also be:

  • Solid,
  • Soft.

A mortise edge without a girth is used quite rarely, because. it is not able to reliably hide the irregularities of the end and protect it from moisture and debris.

The mortise T-shaped profile with a girth (with antennae) is quite popular. It is especially popular when edging curved and radius parts that have been cut (in these cases it is simply irreplaceable).

Usually, after cutting the part with an electric jigsaw with a poor-quality cutting blade, chips form over the entire surface of the end, which are usually furniture edge unable to hide. Therefore, only a T-shaped mortise edge with antennae should be used here, and the larger they are, the better.

When choosing a mortise edge, give preference to a rigid profile. Do not take a soft edging, you are very much tormented with it both during installation and when using the part itself.

The fact is that the soft mortise edge is rather flimsy and when driven into the groove, its leg will bend and break very strongly. Even if you stuff it normally, it will constantly bend over, thus garbage is always brought under it. Also under it will be visible all the potholes and irregularities of the end. And this will negatively affect general view products.

The ideal solution would be a mortise T-shaped rigid edging with a large antennae.

For installation we need:

  • Manual electric milling cutter,
  • Edge cutter with a tooth thickness of 2.8-3 mm and a depth of at least 10 mm,
  • Rubber mallet.

The first step is to make a quality groove in chipboard end. It should be located strictly in the center (in a 16 mm plate - exactly 8 mm from the edge).

We make the groove with a cutter with a tooth thickness of 2.8-3 mm. For reliable fastening, the width of the groove should be 0.5-0.7 mm less than the thickness of the spike (T-leg) of the edge, and the depth should be from 10 mm.

If suddenly the groove turns out to be very wide, you will need to use glue or liquid nails. But it will take more time for it to dry.

Before stuffing the T-shaped PVC profile the end must be cleaned of chips and sanded sandpaper.

When driving the edge into the groove, bend the profile towards you. This is done so that the antennae do not rest against the edges of the butt, but immediately wrap around it on both sides.

If you will fill the edge on parts with a large outer radius, for example, on a rounded corner, then in order for the profile to fit normally and an “accordion” does not form in the leg, you need to make a cutout in it.

When stuffing, use only rubber mallet! With a regular hammer, you just ruin the edge.

If you use PVC edging with a reflective surface, then the protective film should be removed after all installation work, only on the finished product.

The video below shows the operation of the end milling machine for the installation of a mortise T-shaped edge:

And here is a semi-automatic machine for driving a T-shaped edge:

After cutting chipboard or chipboard on the part, an open end edge is formed, which must be closed for the following reasons:
- to give an aesthetic appearance to the workpiece (details);
-reduce formaldehyde fumes;
- protect the end surfaces of the workpieces from minor mechanical damage;
- protect the end surfaces from moisture ingress into the plates.

There are also cushioning edges (SOFT edges) used for children's furniture.
Consider some ways of sealing the end surfaces of the chipboard and line them up according to the stiffness of the end surface. The hardest surface will take first place.

FITTING EDGE (PVC)

In the sectional drawings we see several different edges.

To install them, you need a manual milling cutter

make a groove, along the entire length of the end, of the required width and depth.
The groove width is formed by a cutter,

after passing which, it should be 0.5 ... 0.7 millimeters less than the thickness of the spike. The depth of the groove can be 6…10mm, depending on the length of the spike.

Step-by-step instruction.
1. We grind (grind) the edges of the chipboard end face with fine-grained sandpaper.
2. We select a cutter of the required thickness and diameter, install it in the center of the tenon.
3. We mill the groove of the desired size.
4. PVA glue or "liquid nails", cover outer surface spike.
5. We carefully fill the edge with a rubber mallet until it fits snugly against the end surface.
6. Cut off the ends on both sides and finally align with the end surfaces.

KANT

Overhead plastic profile does not require the use expensive tool. During operation, there is no noise and dust.

To install the profile, we will use glue and a knife.

1. Grind the end faces.
2. Lubricate the inner surface with liquid nails or silicone sealant.
3. We put the profile on the end of the chipboard.
4. Remove excess glue or silicone sealant Let's wait for the glue to dry completely.
5. Cut off the ends and align them with the end surfaces.

On curved sections, the profile must be fixed, pressed against the end surface. This can be done with masking tape.

FURNITURE EDGE

Paper or plastic tape, which is glued to the open end of the chipboard part.
The thickness of the edge can be different - 0.4 ... 5mm. The thicker the edge, the higher its strength characteristics, therefore, the ends in hard-to-reach places are pasted over with a thin edge, and vice versa, the ends in easily accessible places are pasted over with a thick one. The width is selected according to the thickness of the plate, plus a processing allowance of 2 ... 3 mm.

1. Check the uniformity of the adhesive application on the inner surface.
2. Press to the end and heat with a hairdryer or iron.
3. Cut off the ends and clean them. If light stripes form, they can be repaired with furniture wax, stain or potassium permanganate solution.

Material classification:
- melamine edge (paper strip impregnated with carbamide (melamine) resins and varnished);
-PVC (polyvinyl chloride);
-ABS (ABS) (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene);
-PP (polypropylene).

We know how to choose the material, building fasteners, how to seal the ends of the selected material. Having studied the proposed material, you can begin to independently manufacture furniture that you yourself invented and designed.


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Having mastered the skills of carpentry, how nice it is to show your family and friends furniture made by yourself. What could be nicer than touching a razor-sharp blade, smelling the wood, feeling its texture, and then making a clean, fresh cut!

This article talks about the basic techniques of carpentry. How to use carpentry tools to get various forms, joints and textures of wood. If you're unsure of a technique or type of wood, it's worth experimenting with wood trimmings. Get your workshop in order and maintain it. Some masters sharpen before starting a new project hand tool, clean up the workshop and clean all their tools and machines.

Wood preparation and marking

Once you have decided what you are going to do, divide your carefully selected and planed lumber into groups. Mark each workpiece in accordance with its future place in the product, mark the top, bottom, front surfaces and best edges. Using a pencil and a tape measure, mark the cuts of the desired length, and with a square - the cut lines. Use a compass to draw arcs and circles. Using a dividing compass, transfer the dimensions from the drawing to the wood.

If you need to make the board narrower or mark a joint, set the thicknesser to the desired division and scratch the mark by moving the thicknesser along the edge of the workpiece. Small mark lines running at oblique angles. If you need paired parts, mark them out at the same time and remember that one part should be mirror reflection second. Use a knife to mark the connections.

Curved cuts

Can be made with an electric saw, electric jigsaw or band saw. A hacksaw is good for large radius cuts and thick wood where the cut line is away from the edges.

Hacksaws are equipped with swivel bases that change the cutting angle, and depending on the type and thickness of the material, different saw blades should be used. For curved cuts with small radii and wood thickness less than 50 mm, use jigsaw machine or electric jigsaw.

Install a new file and tighten it so that it rings when you flick it with your finger. If you need to cut an opening, you can do two things: either start the cut from the edge, or, if you do not need to touch the edge, first drill a hole in the part to be removed, then release one end of the file, pass it through the hole made and again clamp and tighten.

For accurate and accurate drilling big holes use a drilling machine and Forstner drills. Mark the center of the hole, attach the appropriate drill and set the depth gauge. Then press the workpiece with clamps to the desktop (this will take some time, but it will fully justify itself). If the hole is deep, raise the bit several times as you work to remove debris and minimize overheating. If you have to drill a lot of holes in the same parts, it is useful to make a template from scraps of wood, which is attached with clamps to the desktop of the machine.

For drilling holes for screws and mounting holes for nails, it is worth using a drill, and it is more convenient to use a cordless drill. If you need to drive a lot of screws, install the screwdriver included with this tool into the drill chuck.

Planing by hand

Planing with a planer is very exciting when the blade is sharp and there is enough time. The jointer is ideal for planing along the grain. Do not forget to strengthen the workpiece on the workbench. Make a test pass, make sure the blade is set to the correct depth, and then get to work.

The end planer is good for processing sharp edges and for cleaning the ends. Set the blade so that it cuts the thinnest chips. When processing the end sections, try not to stray to the side and prevent chips.

Selecting grooves manually

Mark the groove with a pencil, ruler, square and possibly the edge of a knife, transfer the workpiece to the work table drilling machine and drill right size drill out the bulk of the unwanted wood.

Remove the chips, clamp the workpiece in a vise and remove the remaining unwanted wood with a chisel, holding the tool vertically. By the way, there is an excellent one.

The groove can be selected with a cutter, while the working technique depends on the size and location of the groove. The milling cutter can be held in your hands and guided along the workpiece, while choosing an open groove, attach it to the desktop and move the workpiece. In this case, the accuracy of the work will depend on the position of the guide bar (stop) and the height of the cutter. Always make a test pass using a piece of wood. It is best to choose a groove in stages and make several passes. Remove sawdust after each pass to avoid overheating the cutter.

Cutting a spike by hand

Mark the shoulder lines (stud length) with a square and a knife, then mark the height and width of the stud with a thickness gauge. Remove unwanted wood with a tenon saw. First make cuts along the fibers to the shoulder line on all four sides of the spike. Then cut the spike along the shoulder line across the fibers. Clean the spike with a chisel.

If you have a lot of studs to cut (or if you just love working with machines), then a table router is the perfect tool. If the large size of the workpiece does not allow it to be placed on the worktable of the router, it is better to press it with clamps to the workbench and process it while holding the router in your hands. Set the fence to the tenon length and the cutter to the desired height, then, pressing the workpiece firmly against the fence, remove excess wood in several passes. When the end of the spike rests against the stop, turn the workpiece over and repeat the procedure on the reverse side. If you stop before the cutter reaches the shoulder line, clean up the tenon with a chisel.

To select a groove 6 mm wide and 4 mm deep at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the board, proceed as follows. Attach the router to the work table and install the 6mm router bit. Set the guide bar to 10 mm. Adjust the cutter height so that it is 2mm above the table. Make a pass along the guide to get a groove 2 mm deep. Turn off the router, raise the bit another 2mm and repeat the pass. You will get a groove with a depth of 4 mm.

To select a rebate 10 mm wide and 4 mm deep, proceed as follows. You will need a spur cutter that is smaller than the rebate width (eg 5 mm diameter). Set the stopper 5mm from the trailing edge of the cutter and set the cutter to a height of 2mm. Rest the board against the limiter and select a 5 mm wide rebate. Repeat the pass, still resting the board against the stop, to get a 10 mm wide seam. Turn off the router, set the router bit to a height of 4 mm and repeat the procedures to complete the rebate.

Press the workpiece with clamps to the workbench. Select a slot width or smaller cutter and set the depth gauge. Press a wooden plank parallel to the groove with clamps to the workpiece, which will serve as a guide. Lower the router, press its base against the guide, turn it on, wait until the router has reached full speed, and make a pass. If the cutter is narrower than the slot, move the guide and repeat the procedure until you have the desired slot width and depth.

Edge milling

Cutting shaped edges with a router is very simple. Attach the router to its table and insert the cutter of your choice - round, radius or shaped. Use a cutter with a support roller.

Move the stop so that it does not interfere. Press the workpiece against the table and make several passes with the cutter from left to right. Continue milling until the workpiece is pressed against the cam roller, at which point the cutter stops cutting. If the shaped edge looks burnt, either the cutter is dull or you were feeding the workpiece too slowly.

Template milling

Use a template if you need to make several parts with the same edges. First, use a saw to cut blanks of approximate shape, leaving no more than 4-5 mm of excess wood on the edges to be milled. Install the guide roller on the base of the router. Cut out a template with a flange allowance from plywood and nail it directly to the surface of the workpiece. Turn on the router and guide it along the edge of the template.

As a template, you can take an already manufactured part and use a spur cylindrical cutter with a support roller (it can be on top or bottom of the cutter).

This saw makes it easy to cut at any angle. Install cutting blade on the frame at the desired angle (90, 45, 36, 22.5 or 15°) and fix it. Set the depth gauge to the desired mark. Place the workpiece on the saw table, press against the stop, and then make a cut in smooth back and forth motions.

Inspect the workpiece and decide exactly where to drive the nail. If this location is close to an edge and there is a risk of splitting the wood, use an electric drill to drill the installation hole first, using a drill that is smaller than the diameter of the nail. Then use a suitable size hammer to drive in the nail. If the nail is crooked, pull it out with a nail puller or pliers. If you are driving very small nails that are difficult to hold with your fingers, hold them with round nose pliers.

Screwdriving

You have a choice between mild steel, stainless steel, brass or aluminum screws with slots or cross slots and countersunk or pan head. Semi-round heads stand out clearly on the surface of the wood, countersunk heads are either flush with the surface, or edged with brass washers, or hidden by wooden plugs. Screws are screwed in with a hand screwdriver, a drill with an appropriate nozzle or a screwdriver.

When using a drill, install a locking mechanism so that the screw is driven to the required depth. If the wood is soft, the installation hole can be made with an awl; if it is hard, drill with a smaller diameter drill.

In order to be able to hide the screws under the wooden plugs, you will have to drill a hole for the plug with a countersink drill and a corresponding cork cutter. Do not use steel screws for oak - they react with wood and moisture and stain. Use plated steel, brass, or stainless steel screws instead.

If you want to make parts round section(legs of chairs, bowls, plates), you can not do without lathe. Get the most powerful and heaviest machine your budget allows, with an adjustable chuck and faceplate set. Spindle-shaped and cylindrical parts are turned, fixing the workpiece between the front and rear centers of the machine, bowls or plates - on outside spindle.

The best lathes are equipped with a device that allows you to turn large workpieces on the outside of the spindle. You will need a variety of turning tools - a chisel, a cut-off tool, an oblique chisel and a radius scraper.

To cut door handle or a latch, you won't need anything but a good sharp knife(not stainless steel). Hold the workpiece in one hand, the knife in the other and cut the wood by pressing the back of the blade with your thumb. The rest is a matter of skill. For practice, first experiment with, for example, soft linden wood.

Hinge installation

The two most common types of hinges are decorative brass hinges (fastened with screws with countersunk heads, screwed flush with the surface) and steel mortise hinges (attached in sockets with steel screws with countersunk heads). In the latter case, circle the hinge leaf with the tip of a knife, cut the outline with a chisel, and then select the wood with a chisel to the desired depth. The sash should sit tightly in the nest. Always buy suitable screws along with the hinges.

Sanding wood

To receive smooth surfaces use numerous grades of sandpaper (skins). The skin can be used either by itself or wrapped with it. wooden block. It is best to sand the wood several times - after sawing, after the glue has dried, and after the final finish.

For the first sanding, use ordinary sandpaper, for finishing - fine sandpaper based on aluminum oxide (it is more expensive, but lasts much longer). For sanding large flat surfaces, use a circular grinder. Work in a well-ventilated area and be sure to wear a dust mask.

Natural wood finish

Originally, the term "natural finish" meant that the wood was sanded and left to in kind, now this concept also includes oil or wax treatment. Danish or teak oil is applied in a thin layer with a lint-free cotton cloth or brush.

Allow to dry and work with the finest sandpaper to remove the "ridges" (a rough texture of raised wood fibers that occurs when the first coat is absorbed), then a second coat is applied. thin layer. If you want to make the surface less hard, rub it with wax mastic.

When finishing products that will come into contact with food, use a vegetable oil such as olive oil instead of teak or Danish oil. Rub it on with a cloth.

You have the choice between mineral spirits based oil paint and water based acrylic paint. Both types of paint are applied with a brush. The visual difference between surfaces painted with one or another paint is very small, however, after working with oil paint, the brushes should be washed with mineral spirits, and after acrylic paint- running water.

Vapors from oil paint can cause dizziness and nausea, while acrylic paint can cause dry throat. Regardless of the type of paint you use, wear a respirator and work outdoors whenever possible.

Special wood finishes

When working with American oak, you can get an interesting texture by wire brushing the wood. This texture is pleasant to the touch, and the resulting rough surface will allow you not to worry about being damaged by the claws of pets.

The brush is driven along the fibers until there are no untreated spots on the surface, after which it is rubbed with oil.

Candle flame finishes help hide imperfections in low-quality wood. Apply to the painted surface with a brush oil varnish. After a while, it dries up and becomes sticky, and then a burning candle is driven under the surface. Be sure to wait for the surface to become tacky (fingerprints should remain on it) and keep the nail polish jar and brush away from the candle. This work is best done by two people somewhere away from the workshop. Practice on scraps before you get into serious work.

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