Plastering walls on your own - all the secrets of the craft. Grouting plaster: types of work and their execution, processing of smooth and decorative surfaces

Often beginners ask the question, what do they rub the walls with after plastering? Covering and grouting a surface treated with plaster is final stage work. Sometimes grouting is replaced with smoothing, while the same tool is used for work. The tool, of course, affects the quality of the coating, but the composition of the mixture is no less important. How to wipe the plaster so that it has an attractive appearance?

Usually, for a finish coating, sand with a fine fraction is added to the solution, which should be of normal fat content. If you plan to tile the wall, you can put coarse sand into the solution. In this case, the wall will be rough and will give better adhesion between materials.

If you add gypsum to a lime-based mortar, you will get a decrease in the strength of the plaster.

A greasy mixture after applying it to the surface will bring a lot of streaks left from the tool and nataska. Such plaster is best used for the smoothing process. The area treated with lean mixtures does not last long, and is difficult to grout.

If for the first time you decide to do repairs yourself or do not have your time, it is recommended to use ready mixes which can be purchased in specialized stores. For beginners, this option will be most acceptable, because due to the poor quality solution that you prepare yourself, you will have to redo everything in the future.

Grouting methods

Everyone who plans to do repairs with their own hands needs to know how to properly overwrite cement plaster. There are two ways to grout a plastered surface with trowels: round and round. These two operations refer to the general procedure for plastering walls and ceilings.

It is worth knowing that you can only use the grout around if you do not need it. smooth surface. For quality coverage both methods must be used.

Grout round

To carry out this procedure, we press the grater against the wall, while making circular movements with our hands. It is better to make movements in one direction - counterclockwise. It will be easier for you to make sure that the edge of the grater removes all the hills in the area. At this time, the removed solution will fill the small pits on the wall, and thus level the surface to be treated.

Experience suggests that the tool must be pressed harder in the place where there are tubercles. And vice versa, reduce the pressure on the grater in places where depressions occur. At first glance, it seems that the technique is simple, but it requires some practice.

During the working process, a solution accumulates on the side of the tool, which is better to remove from time to time. Otherwise, it may fly off in your face, since you are working very close to the surface to be treated. There is also no need to dump excess solution on the floor. It can be collected on a spatula and used to fill chips and pits.

When grouting a plastered surface with graters, there are some nuances. This process requires patience and accuracy. Over time, the plaster sets and becomes more difficult to rub off. Therefore, it is necessary to constantly moisten an already dry surface with water using a brush, broom or “foam” brush.

Even with great effort, traces of the grater remain on the surface. They can be left in case you do not need completely smooth walls. For perfect surface treatment, it is necessary to carry out the work in the overclocking method.

Overclocking grout

With this type of grout, you can achieve a completely flat surface, which is prepared mainly for painting. It is important to follow this procedure wet plaster, and, preferably, immediately after round-robin grouting. This work is best done in small sections.

Using a perfectly even grater, you should move your hand up and down without lifting the tool from the wall. To avoid scratches from the tool on the surface, its edges must be rounded. And do not forget to monitor the humidity of the coating.

Experts know how to grind plaster to give it best effect. They start grouting with a wooden or polyurethane trowel. After that, you can walk with a grater with a felt nozzle for best quality processed plane. For further painting, the walls are treated with a metal float, which gives it a glossy look.

With expensive repairs using a mixture High Quality many craftsmen use smoothing plaster instead of grouting. At the same time, they use the same tool, only better. This surface treatment operation should only be carried out on smooth and damp plaster. The smoothing procedure is carried out first in the vertical direction, and then in the horizontal direction.

Surface plastering is the most effective method prepare the base for the finish coat, as well as one of the options decorative finishes. To give the plaster layer the desired texture, it must be processed, in other words, grout. The grouting process itself is not complicated, but it has its own subtleties and secrets, without which a high-quality result cannot be achieved.

Grouting plaster - photo

Grouting is the final stage of plastering work, which consists in eliminating the smallest errors, leveling and smoothing the surface by rubbing the dried mortar special tool. Using decorative plaster the main purpose of the grout is the formation of a certain relief of the working plane.

Before grouting, a "cover" is applied to the base - finishing layer plaster mortar. The base layer, or primer, is very strong and therefore difficult to process, while the covering provides uniform filling of irregularities and maximum smoothness when grouting. Rub the plaster after setting the solution, but before it dries completely.

Tools for the job

In principle, only one tool is used for grouting plaster - a grater, which is a rectangular canvas with a handle. Graters differ in size and material of manufacture, and depending on this they are used for a certain type of work.

The coating solution is kneaded in the same proportions as for the base layer:

• cement mortar - part of cement and 3 parts of sand;
• cement-lime - 1 part of cement and slaked lime, 3 parts of sand.

Table - Solution proportions

The only difference is that the finest sand is used for covering, with a grain size of not more than 1.5 mm.

Coarse sand is allowed only if the base is plastered under the tile. For high-quality grouting, the solution must have a normal fat content: lean mixtures do not have sufficient strength and crumble during surface treatment, and excessively greasy ones are poorly leveled and leave stripes.

Advice. It is not difficult to determine the fat content of a plaster mortar: if it sticks strongly to the trowel, it is a greasy solution, and you need to add sand; if it does not stick at all, it is a lean mortar that lacks cement. The normal solution is easily stirred, has a uniform consistency, leaves an even thin mark on the trowel.

Sand is sifted through a sieve with a mesh size of not more than 1.5x1.5 mm.

Pour cement into the mixing container, add sifted sand and mix dry. Next, pour water in small portions to achieve the desired consistency.

When mixing a cement-lime mortar, the lime dough should also be filtered through a sieve. The presence of even small grains will lead to the formation of marks on the surface, and it will not be possible to achieve perfect smoothness.

Procedure for grouting

Coating application

Step 1. The plastered surface is moistened with a sprayer. This increases the adhesion of the coating to the primer layer. It should be moistened evenly, without gaps and not too abundantly so that water does not flow from the wall in streams. This should be done 15-20 minutes before applying the solution. If the working area is large, you should divide it into squares, and wet only the area that will be processed.

Step 2 To apply the coating, you will need a trowel and metal rule, or wide spatula.

The solution is thrown in small portions onto the wall, starting from the top, after which it is distributed by the rule over the entire plane. The rule must be pressed well with your hands so that the solution is more densely clogged into the slightest irregularities. Excess mixture should be removed. The thickness of this finishing layer should not exceed 2 mm.

Step 3 When the coating is slightly seized, take a grater and begin to rub the surface. Some plasterers prefer to grout at the same time as applying the mortar.

There is no fundamental difference here, and this does not affect the result in any way, the main thing is to grind the composition along the plane with high quality in order to eliminate irregularities. Let's take a closer look at both options.

Dry grout

So, if you decide to wait for the plaster to set, the grouting process is carried out as follows: they take a polyurethane or metal grater, moisten it with water, press it against the surface and smooth the plaster in a circular motion. You don’t need to press hard on the grater - this way you can tear off a fresh solution and have to repair scratches, but it makes no sense to rub too weakly.

Perform movements with the same effort, slowly moving along the plane from top to bottom or horizontally. At the joints of the walls, apply the grater sheet parallel to the corners and rub with vertical movements, and not in a circle. Where elevations are noticeable, the tool is pressed harder; on the recesses, on the contrary, the pressure force is reduced. A solution is collected on the side of the grater during operation, so it must be cleaned periodically.

When grouting large area the coating can dry out quickly and become more difficult to work with. To soften the coating, it is periodically moistened with water. You can use a spray bottle or put a bucket of water next to it and prepare a wide brush with long bristles. With the same brush it is convenient to remove excess mortar from the grater.

If grouting is carried out with the application of a mortar, the procedure will be as follows: the mortar is made a little thinner than the plaster mixture, they are picked up a little directly on the grater, the tool is applied to the wall and the composition is distributed over the plane with pressure. The grater must be held at an angle to the surface. Having smeared the solution, press the cloth of the grater against the wall and carefully rub everything in circular or arcuate movements. Try to rub intensively, applying uniform efforts, then smoothing is faster and better.

Very little solution is required for this application, and it takes a lot of time to grout, and it is better to knead in small portions to avoid solidification. When processing one plane, the intervals between grouting adjacent sections should be minimal - take a break only to prepare the solution. Moisturizing each subsequent square, moisten the already worn edges a little - this will increase the adhesion of the solution and transitions will not be visible at the border of adjacent sections.

Grout "round" and "overclocking"

Surface treatment in a circular motion is called "circular" grouting. This method makes it possible to compact plaster layer, get rid of all the tubercles and depressions. But it still does not give ideal smoothness, since noticeable arched traces remain from the circular movements of the grater. Of course, under the tile or textured paint such a base is quite suitable, but under ordinary paint these irregularities are clearly visible. Where the smoothest possible surface is required, it is necessary to grout in another way - “overclocking”.

Grouting "overrunning" must be carried out necessarily on wet plaster and immediately after grouting "round". Only if these conditions are met can excellent result. A solution is no longer needed here, and moisturizing is performed only if necessary. Another important point- the grater must be absolutely clean, even, with rounded edges. If the tool is not cleaned of the solution, hardened crumbs will leave scratches on the plane, as well as the sharp edges of the canvas.

Grouting plaster - methods

For convenience, the surface is treated in small areas - about 1 m2. The grater is pressed against the wall and driven up and down the plane with measured, precise movements. During grouting, try not to tear the tool away from the plaster, and keep the same pressure all the time. Horizontal or circular movements are not allowed here - only vertical ones.

Surface Smoothing

Smoothing is the final, but optional, step in smoothing the surface. Some master plasterers replace grout with it, but only if high quality factory plaster mixtures are used. For smoothing, use a grater covered with felt or rubber, or metal. In general, the process resembles “overclocking” grouting, only the surface is treated twice: the first time the movements are performed strictly vertically from top to bottom, the second circle - horizontally.

The pattern of decorative plaster is formed in two ways - during application and after the mortar has set. In the first case, smooth trowels are used for grouting, which allow you to remove sharp protrusions on the surface and soften the relief of the pattern, in the second case, both smooth and textured trowels can be used, depending on the composition of the plaster.

1 way

A solution is applied to the prepared base with a spatula or trowel, making strokes in a certain order or randomly. Nothing needs to be leveled and smoothed, the main thing is that the layer of plaster lays down in approximately the same layer over the entire area, and there are no missed sections left. After application, you need to wait about 20 minutes until the solution grabs so as not to stick to the instrument. Next, they take a grater, moisten it with water, apply the canvas to the surface and, with light pressure, very carefully perform movements in one direction.

If you apply too much pressure, the plaster will smooth out and the pattern will be smudged. And so only sharp protrusions will be smoothed out, the recesses will take on a slightly more rounded shape. Periodically, the grater needs to be moistened for easier sliding.

2 way

The plaster is applied in a layer of 2-3 mm and carefully distributed over the plane with a metal spatula or a rule. The surface should be as smooth as possible, without traces from the spatula, transitions and other defects. Allow the solution to dry a little (15-20 minutes), and proceed to the grout. Here it is more convenient to use a plastic grater. Grouting is carried out in strips with a width of not more than 1.5 m.

Movements can be circular, vertical, horizontal, oblique and even zigzag, but always in one direction. Only in this way a clear pattern will appear on the surface.

Be sure to moisten the grater, and in the process of work, periodically clean it from adhering plaster - its particles fall into the recesses and lubricate the pattern. Perform movements carefully, trying not to cling to already completed sections. After processing one strip, immediately begin to overwrite the next. So that transitions between the strips are not visible, moisten the joints well with water. Do not allow interruptions in work, because the plaster dries quickly, and it will be impossible to form the desired pattern.

After grouting is completed, wait for the surface to dry completely and treat the walls with a foam grater. Such grinding will give the coating smoothness, remove excess particles of the solution, and at the same time will not damage the pattern at all.

Video - Grouting plaster

Doing overhaul apartment, office or home, you will definitely encounter the need for plastering work. This process is very time consuming and requires professional skills. Therefore, it would be better to entrust this work to specialists. But if, in order to save on the repair budget, you decide to finish the walls yourself, then before mixing the mortar, read our article, complete guide plastering the walls with your own hands.

Wall plastering can be done in several ways.

1. In the plane, using the rule (without beacons). This option is suitable if the walls as a whole are fairly even, without drops and strong deviations.
2. Alignment of the walls on the lighthouses. The second method is suitable if the walls have significant deviations and irregularities.

Requirements for plaster

The main requirements for the quality of the plastering work being carried out are set out in SNiP III-21-73. It is especially important to know them if you decide not to do the work yourself, but to hire workers. The quality of work is divided into 3 parts: for simple, improved and high quality plaster.

1. With simple plaster, vertical deviations of not more than 3 mm per 1 m, but not more than 15 mm for the entire height of the room, are permissible. Thus, the maximum deviation of the wall with ceilings of 2.5 m is 7.5 mm. Smooth irregularities are allowed, for every 4 sq. m. - no more than 3 pieces. Their height or depth should not exceed 5 mm. Horizontally, the maximum deviation is 3 mm per 1 m.
2. SNIP for improved plaster requires more stringent compliance with tolerances. Vertically - no more than 2 mm per 1 m, but no more than 10 mm for the entire height of the room. Smooth irregularities are allowed - no more than 2 pcs. for 4 sq. m., with a depth of less than 3 mm. For each meter horizontally, a deviation of no more than 2 mm is permissible.
3. The most stringent requirements in SNIP are specified for high-quality plaster. Vertical deviations should be less than 1 mm per 1 m, but not more than 5 mm per room height. The maximum allowed is 2 irregularities per 4 sq. m., with a depth of less than 2 mm. At 1 m horizontally, a deviation of no more than 1 mm is permissible.

Alignment of walls with lighthouses


It is in this way that significant wall irregularities can be removed. Beacon profiles will serve as a limiter so that the work is done perfectly evenly with a tolerance of 1 mm / sq.m.

The cost of work

Price for plastering work is from 600 rubles. per sq. m. Let's calculate how much you can save if you do not hire workers.

First of all, you need to buy a puncher and a bubble level 2 m long. All the rest expendable materials will be indicated below. All these accessories will be enough for 6,000 rubles, so you will save money after leveling one wall with an area of ​​15 square meters. m.

If you want to level the walls with an area of ​​​​90 square meters. m., then the savings will be at least 30,000 rubles! You will have the whole tool forever, and if you already have it, then it’s a sin not to use it. If we plaster the walls ourselves, then we will definitely be sure of their quality.

Choosing a mixture for plaster

To better understand the process of leveling walls, look at the following on plaster:

• The last step is grouting the plaster. To make this easier to do, it is better to start grouting before the solution dries. To do this, you need to dilute the plaster in small portions in a more liquid consistency. Moisturize before grouting small plot walls about 1 square meter.
• Apply the solution to the malt and smear it thin layer. Then level this square with a small one at an angle of 45 degrees, with strong pressure.
• Continue smoothing the square until the grout no longer accumulates on the malka, while removing its excess. The surface should be even and smooth.
• Repeat these steps, but smooth each new square overlapping the previous one. Try to work without interruptions, being distracted only by mixing the solution.

Note! If you are tiling, the minimum layer of plaster should be 10 mm. In addition, grouting is not required, since for the greatest adhesion of the tile to the wall, it will be necessary to create artificial bumps.

The result of the work is shown in the photo:

Facade plastering

The plastering of external walls (facades) according to the technology of lighthouses is almost the same as inside the premises. The main thing here is to comply temperature regime. The temperature outside must be above zero.

For facades, a mixture based on cement and sand is usually used. For greater durability on the facade can be attached metal mesh and plaster over it. It is especially important to use a grid if the walls of the house are made of sand-lime bricks.

We have examined in detail how to properly plaster walls with the help of beacons. Now you can easily do these works with your own hands. Do not be discouraged if you do not succeed in this business the first time, everything goes with experience, and you will definitely learn how to make the walls perfectly even. We also recommend that you read our article about.

Grouting plaster on walls and ceilings, as well as the skill of this work, is necessary for a number of reasons: surface leveling saves material consumption for subsequent finishing and puttying, and simplifies work. It is impossible to pull off the rough plaster with the rule to smoothness, and additional grouting over the plaster layer is required. After applying the last finishing layer of putty and drying it, remove all irregularities using emery trowels or diamond meshes. A special technique requires grouting on plaster decorative designs- the desired texture is given with special graters. For the popular bark beetle plaster, grouting is performed in several ways, which dramatically changes the decorative effect.

Grout after plaster

Grouting can be done manual method, if the area of ​​​​finishing allows it. You can manually smooth out the rough plaster, or you can apply and grout decorative mixtures, while grouting is done in completely different ways.

Mechanical equipment with rotating discs gives a gain in time, and quality compared to handmade much better - the difference is especially noticeable on large areas walls. But with mechanical grouting with an abrasive wheel, it is impossible to apply patterns other than circular ones. With manual troweling decorative effects- do not list.

It is especially important for high-quality grouting and artistry of decor - if it is provided - the presence of good hand tools, and it is extremely unprofitable to save on their quality. Classic hand tools for grouting:

• Wooden graters. Inexpensive, durable - canvases wear out for many years. The downside is that they are quite heavy, and the hand gets tired quickly even with an experienced master.
• Styrofoam graters are modern modifications of ancient wooden counterparts, the configuration and methods of work are the same, but low weight gives the advantage of ease of work. But in terms of resource, foam plastic is incomparable with wood, the grater wears out very quickly. But since the prices are low, the replacement is not a problem. Standard size foam graters 12*24cm, convenient to operate.
• Sponge floats are universal - with this tool you can not only wash (the correct definition of the operation is wet leveling) the plastered surface, but also tile joints at the final stage of cladding.
• Metal irons. Same as graters, but made from of stainless steel and polished. The sole is smooth, and the specificity is different than when working with the above-described graters. The metal does not overwrite the plaster layer, contrary to the name, but smoothes. Best of all - and as a rule, most often used - the method of smoothing with a metal float is used on semi-liquid putties or covering mixtures.
• Spatulas for putty - wide spatulas from 400 mm are used for smoothing gypsum plasters.

Auxiliary tool - to speed up the work, sprayers with water are kept nearby to moisten the soles of the graters and the surfaces to be rubbed, since the top layer of plaster dries quickly. Also need good light, otherwise you won’t get a good grout, and the lighting should be lateral. Directional lamps and spotlights are used - the desired stream of light will show all gaps and defects and it will be easy to eliminate them on fresh plaster.

Mechanisms for grouting plaster, or trowels, are quite expensive, but they are indispensable for large finishing areas. The weight of the machines is small, and long time holding a trowel in your hand is not difficult. The electric motors that are used for these machines are distinguished by low level vibrations - this is important for leveling the plaster layer. For floor screeds and others horizontal surfaces use other machines, larger and heavier. For large rooms smoothing the screeds is carried out with trowels on dry substrates, they work in protective clothing.

The grouting method also depends on the composition of the plaster mixture. Sand-cement plasters with manual grouting are treated with two classical methods included in all textbooks - round and round grout and overclocking. The methods differ in the direction of the grater. Circular grouting requires a slight pressure on the tool and direction with a circular motion. If they are rubbed in an overclocking way, they lead the grater from top to bottom and vice versa. The second way is much more difficult, and it is also more difficult to learn it. But the skill achieved is very useful, since it is during acceleration that smooth plaster is obtained. To perform grouting close to ideal, they combine circular movements with the grater up and down, and the second method allows you to remove the smallest error.

With mechanized grouting, it is necessary to wet the surface, but not with a stream of water from a hose, but drip - you can use a sprinkler. Perform mechanical grouting on dried cement surfaces, approximately two to four hours after a layer of plaster has been applied to the entire surface. On wet base cement coating pass around the trowel. The screeds are smoothed out in several penetrations, depending on the evenness of the bases. If the depressions and irregularities are significant, it is necessary to lay a coating - a semi-liquid solution of cement and sand, with the consistency of sour cream. The last penetration is done with felt circles. Vertical surfaces are smoothed according to the type of screed - a large roughness is filled with a solution of a slightly thicker coating, moistening the top layer during operation. Felt and felt discs perfectly grind wetted cement-sand plaster, the adhering sludge mixture has to be cleaned frequently.

Gypsum plasters do not overwrite - they are smoothed out, this is the difference finishing for gypsum and cement plasters. Use metal trowels and / or wide spatulas from 400 mm. Smooth horizontally and top-down, alternating these movements of the tool. A spatula or trowel is applied in the wall with an angle of about 25 degrees, the main direction of contraction is from the bottom up, and then lead in a horizontal direction, in both directions with alternation. At the same time, they work on wet gypsum plaster, and the edges of the trowels accumulate gypsum slurry mixture, which experienced craftsmen do not remove - it is more convenient to fill small depressions on the surface.

A special technique is required for grouting decorative plasters, and there are a lot of tools and fixtures here. Particularly indicative is the bark beetle plaster, which includes a fractional filler that gives when grouting original drawing the bark of a tree corroded by woodworms - the effect is almost artistic. The wall looks antique and antique, especially if it is painted accordingly. Granite crumbs under the grater move to top layer plaster, leaving a picturesque rectilinear or fantasy pattern directed along the movement of the float. You can also perform bark beetle circles, as well as combine various patterns.

Grouting skills are learned on the job and it takes patience and time to be successful. Wipe plaster - simple, but extremely useful way get high quality decorative coating and for internal walls at home, and for the facade.

Plastering is the most effective method preparation of the wall surface for applying the finishing coating, as well as one of the options for decorative finishes. To give the top layer the necessary texture, it needs to be processed, grouted with plaster. By itself, this process is not very complicated, but it requires compliance with some rules. Without this, it will not be possible to achieve a high-quality result.

What is the grouting process

This is the last stage. It consists of eliminating minor flaws. The walls are leveled and smoothed by rubbing the previously applied composition with a special tool. Before grouting, a “coating” is applied to the working surface - this is the finishing layer of the plaster mortar. The grouting process is performed after the composition has set, but before it dries.

Tool selection

A trowel is an item used when applying a mixture and to eliminate defects made during the plastering process. With it, you can remove excess mortar from the surface and slightly level the base. However, it is impossible to achieve complete smoothness with it; this requires a grater. This tool has large quantity positive characteristics:

1. The convenience of use. The design is made in such a way that even with many hours of continuous work, a person does not experience discomfort.
2. Light weight. For the production of graters, light materials are used so that the hands do not get tired of the weight during work.
3. Low cost.
4. Long term operation. Subject to the application technique and careful attitude, one grater is enough to process a thousand square meters.
5. Big choice. The construction markets are represented by the most different variants grater: wooden, plastic, metal, large, small and so on.
6. Waterproof. The tool for grouting plaster is made of materials that do not absorb moisture.

Varieties of graters

Previously, tools for grouting plaster were made exclusively from wood. A piece of wood was taken as a basis and a plane with a handle was cut out of it. But such a product has a significant drawback - natural material quickly absorbs moisture, so long work becomes very heavy, and after drying, the base is deformed and cracked.

Modern manufacturers produce graters different kind. They are classified depending on the material from which the work surface is made. It can be wood, plastic, polyurethane, latex, foam, rubber, sponge or metal. When choosing, you should rely on experience with these materials or on the recommendations of specialists.

Tool selection

Each type of grater has its own purpose:

1. Spongy. It is used for grouting decorative plaster.
2. Styrofoam. The cheapest and most fragile material that breaks with any careless movement.
3. Metal. Used for leveling porous plaster compositions, as well as to prepare the surface for applying paint.

A novice repairman is best to give preference to a polyurethane grater, which is strong, durable and light. And here plastic product more suitable for professionals. Such a grater is most often used for one-time work on grouting plaster.

Preparing a coating solution

For this purpose, the composition is kneaded in the same proportions as for the main layer:

1. A mortar of cement - three parts of sand and one part of cement.
2. Cement-lime composition - one part of cement with lime is mixed with three parts of sand.

The only feature of the preparation of such solutions is to use as fine sand as possible. The grain size should not exceed 1.5 mm. Coarse sand can only be used if, as top coat walls will be used tiles.

In order for the plaster grout to be of high quality, it is necessary to monitor its fat content (content of binders). The greasy mixture will be poorly leveled and leave streaks, and if this indicator is insufficient, the plaster will begin to crumble during surface treatment.

Solution preparation

The process consists of the following steps:

1. Sand is sieved through a fine sieve optimal size cells - 1.5 * 1.5 mm.
2. Cement, sand are poured into the mixing container and all this is thoroughly mixed.
3. Water is poured in in small portions. This should be done until the solution acquires the desired consistency.

If a cement-lime mortar is mixed, then the lime must also be sifted through a sieve. If there are even small grains, traces will remain on the plastered surface, and subsequently it will not be possible to achieve perfect smoothness.

Procedure

The grouting process after plastering consists of several stages, the first of which is the application of a coating.

1. The plastered surface is wetted with a spray gun. This is necessary in order to increase the degree of adhesion of the primer layer to the coating. Humidification should be carried out evenly, without gaps. At the same time, the surface should not be heavily wetted, water should not drain in streams. This is done 15-20 minutes before applying the composition. If a work zone very large, then it must be divided into sections and wet only the one that will be processed. If you don't have a sprayer handy, you can use a brush. Soak it in water and spray on the wall.
2. To apply the coating, you will need a trowel and a wide spatula or a metal rule. The solution is poured onto the work surface in small portions. You should start from the top, gradually distributing the composition as a rule over the entire wall. The tool must be pressed with force so that the solution clogs more densely and penetrates even into microscopic irregularities. Excess is removed immediately. Max Thickness of this coating is 2 mm.
3. After coupling the solution, you can pick up a grater and start grouting cement plaster. Some masters prefer to do this at the same time as applying the composition.

When to do this - there is not much difference, and the result is not affected. The main thing is to distribute the composition well over the surface so that all irregularities disappear. Let's consider each of the methods in detail.

dry method

If you decide to wait until the plaster on the wall dries, and grout later, then the process will be carried out as follows:

1. A polyurethane or metal grater dipped in water is taken.
2. The tool is pressed against working surface and with the help of circular movements, the process of leveling the plaster begins.

It is not necessary to press hard on the grater, otherwise there is a risk of tearing off the fresh composition, but too weak movements will not bring results.

Efforts must be distributed evenly, slowly moving along surfaces from top to bottom or horizontally. At the joints of the walls, the base of the grater is applied parallel to the corners, and the direction of movement of the hands changes from circular to vertical. Where tubercles are visible, the tool should be pressed harder, and in deepening zones, the pressure force, on the contrary, is reduced. In the process, a solution is collected on the sides of the grater, so it needs to be removed from time to time. You can do this with a wet brush.

When grouting gypsum plaster over a large area, the coating dries quickly. As a result, the job becomes more difficult. To correct the situation, the solution must be moistened with water. For this purpose, you can use a wet brush or spray.

Grout with mortar

When using the method with the application of the composition, the process consists of the following steps:

1. A small amount of mortar for grouting plaster is collected on a grater (its consistency should be slightly thinner than for plastering walls), after which the tool is applied to the surface and the contents are evenly distributed over the plane. In this case, the grater must be kept at an angle.
2. After applying the solution, the tool blade is pressed against the wall, and the grouting process begins. Movements can be arched or circular, but always careful and uniform.

With this method of application, the solution for grouting walls after plastering is spent very economically, but it takes a lot of time. To avoid solidification of the composition, it is better to knead it in small portions. If one large plane is being processed, then the intervals between grouting adjacent sections should be as short as possible, a break is allowed only to prepare a new portion of the solution. When moistening the next square of the surface, it is recommended to wet the edges of the already rubbed, this will increase the degree of adhesion. After drying, the transitions will not be noticeable.

You can check the quality of the work performed in the following ways:

1. Directing the light of the lamp along the work surface will help to identify any bumps and errors.
2. Applied to surfaces building level will accurately “show” whether there are irregularities. You can eliminate the shortcomings with the help of a grinding bar (grater).

Before proceeding with grouting the surface of the walls, it is necessary to take measures to protect other rooms of the residential building from the smallest dust particles that inevitably form during the plastering process. The following steps will help keep you clean:

1. Wrapping all furniture and items in the room, plastic wrap. For more thorough protection, secure the material with tape.
2. Window covering with polyethylene. The film is fixed along the width and length of the openings with adhesive tape.
3. hanging on front door wet fabric. A wet cloth is also laid under the threshold so that dust does not fly out into neighboring rooms.

Also, take care of your own safety. In the process of plastering and grouting the walls, it is recommended to wear a special mask, goggles and clothing. Before sending items to washing machine they must be shaken out thoroughly.

Conclusion

Grouting plaster with your own hands is, of course, laborious process but not very complex. Almost anyone can master the work, even without the appropriate skills. To receive good result it takes patience, practice and quality materials. If you take the matter seriously, then, in the end, you will get beautiful and even walls, completely ready for further processing.