How to lay tiles on a wooden floor: laying methods and a description of the process. Laying tiles on a wooden floor: preparing the subfloor Draft floor for tiles

Laying ceramic tiles on wooden floors is associated with certain technical difficulties, due to significant differences in their structure. Wood is able to deform in a changing climate pattern (meaning its drying out with a lack of moisture and swelling with an excess of the latter). In addition, it can change its volume with sharp fluctuations in ambient temperature, which, of course, affects the state of the facing layer itself. The thing is that microscopic displacements imperceptible to humans wooden base have a negative impact on the solidity of the tiled surface. In this case, there is a violation of the structural bonds of the material, accompanied by the appearance of characteristic cracks on the tile and crumbling of the seams, which, as a rule, leads to peeling of individual elements of the coating.

That's why before you put tiles on a wooden floor, you should definitely get acquainted with special techniques, the use of which allows you to get rid of the problems described above. The specificity of these procedures lies in the preliminary application of another intermediate layer on the rough wood floor, which has damping properties and faces its elastic surface towards the "unstable" base.

At the same time, such a layer provides air access to the wood (i.e., creates conditions for its ventilation), which eliminates the possibility of decay of the material, as well as the appearance of fungal formations and mold on it.

Installation conditions and tools used

The house doesn't have to be new.

Before starting the work procedures for laying tiles in wooden house we recommend that you first of all familiarize yourself with the conditions that determine the possibility of its use in each specific situation. For this, the following requirements must be met:

firstly, the house in which the outdoor work, should not be new, as the subsequent shrinkage of the structure will lead to a change in level floor covering(so after shrinkage, it may need to be built up);
secondly, the base you use as a subfloor must be made of moisture-resistant material (which is especially important when facing the floor in the bathroom, for example);
and, finally, before starting work, an assessment of the current state of the used rough foundation must be carried out.

notched trowel

In addition, for laying tiles, you will definitely need the following working tool:

regular spatula of standard size;
notched trowel;
building rule of the required length;
special rubberized hammer;
tile cutter;
level, tape measure and marking cord.

tile cutter

Assessment of the state of the subfloor

Before starting the work procedures for laying ceramic tiles, you will have to familiarize yourself with how the subfloor should be properly prepared for the upcoming work. In this case, a wooden floor is understood as layered construction, consisting of support beams and a log with boards tightly packed on them. So in the course of assessing the state of the foundation, all its elements should be carefully examined and checked.

Check the condition of the subfloor

To do this, you will need to completely disassemble the old wooden floor, which will allow you to access the beams and joists. This operation is quite reasonable, since you will most likely have to use a completely new coating of tongue and groove board or other material to form a rough base.

An old floor with wooden floorboards (despite the absence of creaks and deformations when moving on it) is most often not able to serve as a reliable base for laying tiles.

Foundation preparation

Insulated subfloor

During the preparation of the floor base structure for work, special attention should be paid to the following points:

Consider a thermal gap

Leveling and damping the base

The final leveling of the already laid subfloor for ceramic tiles is carried out by means of grinder or by simple sanding with a suitable size sandpaper.

First, the technological gap existing around the perimeter of the room is filled mounting foam or glued with pieces of tape from a special polymer membrane(in this case, the gaps between the laid boards or between sheets of waterproof plywood are sealed in exactly the same way).
To form a soft monolithic layer that softens the deformation and vibration of the subfloor, the latter is treated with latex impregnation or heated drying oil (instead of impregnation, its bituminous or waxed counterparts, produced in rolls, are sometimes used).
In the case of using drying oil or impregnation, without waiting for their final drying, the surface is completely covered with a special paint mesh.

Drying oil and paint mesh will come in handy

Upon completion of all the above operations, you will receive a solid insulating layer, which will not only provide compensation for fluctuations and changes in the volume of the wood base, but also reliably protect it from penetrating moisture. It should be noted that the method of preparation of the intermediate layer considered by us refers to the methods of leveling, in which it is possible to do without a screed at all. After its formation, you can proceed directly to the installation of the ceramic tile itself.

Lightweight tie device

Light screed under the tile

But most often, in order to improve the quality of the intermediate layer (to obtain a more rigid substrate under ceramic lining) on a leveled base, a lightweight screed is additionally made, which only slightly loads load-bearing structure rough floor. Such a screed can be implemented in several ways, involving the use of various binders:

It can be made in the form of a classic cement screed no more than 3 cm thick. In the process of its preparation, it is first mounted on top of the rough base metal grid, which is then poured with a pre-prepared cement mortar.

As a replacement for the classic screed, fills from modern polymeric materials are often used, which include glue based on liquid glass.

In addition, for these purposes, you can use a two-component polyurethane adhesive composition, which, upon completion of polymerization, forms a sufficiently elastic layer that perfectly protects the tiles laid on it from possible deformations.

Facing laying

Tiles will need to be cut.

Before gluing the tiles on the base prepared by oneself, a trial layout of the blanks is carried out, which allows them to be adjusted in problem areas (along the edges of the flooring or near pipes and other communications). With any installation option, you are unlikely to be able to avoid the so-called cutting of tiles; workpieces cut in place are recommended to be placed in shading zones (along the perimeter of the room). In addition, it is also desirable to determine in advance the shape of the trimmed tile blanks and form their complete set even before laying.

Laying tiles on a leveled floor

The very process of laying ceramic tiles on an already prepared wooden base in one of the premises (in the kitchen, for example) does not differ in any significant way from the typical methods of laying facing coatings of this class. To implement them, you will need all the previously mentioned working tool.

Particular attention must be paid to the adhesive composition, which must be prepared in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. This composition should not be diluted in quantities greater than necessary for finishing one square meter surfaces.

In conclusion, we note that all excess adhesive composition is removed from the surface of the tile with a damp rag as soon as they appear, and the seams formed after the adhesive has hardened are moistened with water and gently rubbed.

Laying ceramic tiles on wooden floors is associated with certain technical difficulties, due to significant differences in their structure. Wood is able to deform in a changing climate pattern (meaning its drying out with a lack of moisture and swelling with an excess of the latter). In addition, it can change its volume with sharp fluctuations in ambient temperature, which, of course, affects the state of the facing layer itself. The thing is that microscopic displacements of the wooden base, imperceptible to humans, have a negative impact on the solidity of the tiled surface. In this case, there is a violation of the structural bonds of the material, accompanied by the appearance of characteristic cracks on the tile and crumbling of the seams, which, as a rule, leads to peeling of individual elements of the coating.

Installation conditions and tools used

Before starting the working procedures for laying tiles in a wooden house, we recommend that you first of all familiarize yourself with the conditions that determine the possibility of using it in each specific situation. For this, the following requirements must be met:

firstly, the house in which the floor work is carried out should not be new, since the subsequent shrinkage of the structure will lead to a change in the level of the floor covering (so after shrinkage it may be necessary to increase it);
secondly, the base you use as a subfloor must be made of moisture-resistant material (which is especially important when facing the floor in the bathroom, for example);
and, finally, before starting work, an assessment of the current state of the used rough foundation must be carried out.

In addition, for laying tiles, you will definitely need the following working tool:

regular spatula of standard size;
notched trowel;
building rule of the required length;
special rubberized hammer;
level, tape measure and marking cord.

Assessment of the state of the subfloor

Before starting the work procedures for laying ceramic tiles, you will have to familiarize yourself with how the subfloor should be properly prepared for the upcoming work. At the same time, a wooden floor is understood as a multilayer structure consisting of support beams and a log with boards tightly packed on them. So in the course of assessing the state of the foundation, all its elements should be carefully examined and checked.

An old floor with wooden floorboards (despite the absence of creaks and deformations when moving on it) is most often not able to serve as a reliable base for laying tiles.

Foundation preparation

During the preparation of the floor base structure for work, special attention should be paid to the following points:

Leveling and damping the base

The final leveling of the already laid subfloor for ceramic tiles is done with a grinder or by simple sanding with a sandpaper of a suitable size.

First, the technological gap existing around the perimeter of the room is filled with mounting foam or glued with pieces of tape from a special polymer membrane (in this case, the gaps between the laid boards or between sheets of waterproof plywood are sealed in exactly the same way).
To form a soft monolithic layer that softens the deformation and vibration of the subfloor, the latter is treated with latex impregnation or heated drying oil (instead of impregnation, its bituminous or waxed counterparts, produced in rolls, are sometimes used).
In the case of using drying oil or impregnation, without waiting for their final drying, the surface is completely covered with a special paint mesh.

Upon completion of all the above operations, you will receive a continuous insulating layer, which will not only provide compensation for fluctuations and changes in the volume of the wood base, but also reliably protect it from penetrating moisture. It should be noted that the method of preparation of the intermediate layer considered by us refers to the methods of leveling, in which it is possible to do without a screed at all. After its formation, you can proceed directly to the installation of the ceramic tile itself.

Lightweight tie device

But most often, in order to improve the quality of the intermediate layer (to obtain a more rigid substrate for ceramic cladding), a lightweight screed is additionally made on a leveled base, which only slightly loads the supporting structure of the subfloor. Such a screed can be implemented in several ways, involving the use of various binders:

It can be made in the form of a classic cement screed with a thickness of no more than 3 cm. In the process of its preparation, a metal mesh is first mounted on top of the rough base, which is then poured with a pre-prepared cement mortar.
As a replacement for the classic screed, fills from modern polymeric materials are often used, which include glue based on liquid glass.
In addition, for these purposes, you can use a two-component polyurethane adhesive composition, which, upon completion of polymerization, forms a sufficiently elastic layer that perfectly protects the tiles laid on it from possible deformations.

Facing laying

Particular attention must be paid to the adhesive composition, which must be prepared in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. This composition should not be diluted in quantities greater than necessary to finish one square meter of surface.

Floor base made of ceramic tiles - practical option for wet rooms. This is due to her high operational characteristics- aesthetics, durability, resistance to moisture, decay and deformation.

Often homeowners have doubts about whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. Of course, it is possible, but with strict observance of the installation technology of the facing material.

Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor

Ceramic tiles and wood are practically incompatible materials, since wood, like any material of organic origin, cracks and deforms over time. It can also swell and crack, even if well fixed.

If you put a layer of tile adhesive, or make cement screed right on the floorboard, then the movement of the wood will certainly lead to the peeling of the tile, cracks in the screed and, consequently, the loss of money and time for the next repair of the floor.

The main task is to make such a shock-absorbing layer between the wooden floor surface and the tile, which will compensate for the micro-movements of the base, without transferring them to the tile adhesive layer.

The demand and popularity of ceramic tiles allows it to be widely used for facing old wooden floors. Ceramic laying is allowed on the following types of substrate:

frame,
log,
lumber,
shield.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor requires taking into account the specifics of the surface, its quality training and compliance with installation technology.

Based on the results of the preliminary inspection of the wooden base, the following activities are carried out:

The surface is in good operating condition without damage - floor preparation and tiling in progress.
The surface is damaged or deformed - installation is not possible. To begin with, a full or partial restoration with the replacement of damaged areas.

A damper layer is arranged between the tile and the base to cushion the possible movement of the floor. She also provides additional protection floors from increased moisture and prevents premature aging of wood.

Difficulties when installing floor cladding

Neglect of the basic rules for preparing the base and laying floor ceramics can lead to:

To deformation, cracking and damage to the cladding as a result of wood movements.
To the defeat of rot and mold in rooms with high humidity.

In the process of installing tiles, novice masters may encounter some difficulties:

Insufficient rigidity of the base due to the mobility of wood for fixing floor ceramics.
Insufficient access of oxygen to the lower part of the floor structure.
Uneven distribution of ultimate loads over the entire surface area.

Mounting floor tiles in a wooden house after the completion of construction, as well as the arrangement of floors with wooden floors, is not carried out. Works are possible only after complete shrinkage of the building in 3-4 years. If the house is built of brick, reinforced concrete or cinder block, then flooring can be done at any time.

Features of laying tiles in the bathroom and in the kitchen

Often ceramic tile used to protect wooden surfaces in rooms and buildings with high humidity - entrance hall, shower room, kitchen, corridor, bathroom, sauna and swimming pool.

The main difference is that in the bathroom, kitchen and other functional areas the air is saturated with moisture and steam. This requires the arrangement of additional waterproofing of the surface. For these purposes, PVC film or bitumen-based roofing material is used.

An excellent alternative is moisture-resistant drywall and cement chipboards up to 2 cm thick. Waterproofing materials are mounted on a pre-installed bituminous roofing material with fixation on self-tapping screws.

Important! gaps between waterproofing material and walls are carefully filled with mounting foam. This will provide additional strength to the base.

The prepared surface is primed, after which the tiles are laid.

Wooden base preparation

Before executing facing works must be properly prepared wooden surface. The device of a multilayer floor cake will ensure the solidity and ventilation of the base, reduce the load on the wood.

Dismantling first. wooden structure gender. Deformed and damaged elements are replaced with new ones. If necessary, the laying step of the lag is reduced and the surface is leveled. Additionally, the structure is treated with antiseptic compounds.

Instructions for preliminary preparation wooden flooring involves the following steps:

Stage 1 . Dismantling the base and pre-cleaning from paintwork. Surface cleaning is carried out in three ways:

Chemical. Wood floor processing chemical reagents, contributing to the dissolution of varnishes and paints.
Thermal. Heating the base with building hair dryer and dismantling the coating with a metal spatula.
Mechanical. Dismantling the coating with a power tool - a grinder with a nozzle, a grinder or medium-grain paper.

Stage 2. Checking the condition of individual elements of the floor structure - log and beams, replacing with new parts and leveling the surface.

Stage 3 . Antiseptic surface treatment. The tree is susceptible to increased moisture and temperature changes, therefore it requires maximum protection from rotting, deformation and mold damage. Processing is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, observing the interval and intensity of application.

Stage 4 . Arrangement of a heat-insulating layer. For insulation, expanded clay of fine fraction is used to fill free space between the joists in the floor. For supporting natural ventilation a 6 cm technological gap is provided between the lower part of the log and the insulation.

Stage 5 . Subfloor installation. For these purposes, a clean and even board is used, which is fixed to the base with galvanized self-tapping screws. The surface is leveled thin layer putties. The distance from the wall to the floorboard is filled with foam.

Instead of a floorboard, 12 mm plywood or chipboard sheets after pre-treatment antiseptics.

Waterproofing layer under the tiles

Careful waterproofing of the surface will ensure a long service life of the floor cladding. For these purposes, a practical, wear-resistant and reliable material resistant to moisture penetration and condensation.

The surface is treated with heated drying oil or latex-based impregnation, on top of which a special damper tape is overlapped. It provides the necessary cushioning and compensation for the movement of the wooden base.

The double-sided cushioning tape is installed with the elastic side against the wood, and the strong side against the tile. An additional benefit of using a damper layer is to maintain natural ventilation and prevent moisture ingress.

Methods for leveling the floor surface

To lay tiles on a prepared wooden floor, it is necessary to equip a reliable monolithic surface. This can be done in three ways:

dry way,
method of pouring cement-concrete screed,
express way.

Dry leveling

Quite a popular way to get flat surface using moisture-resistant drywall, plywood and OSB boards. Similar materials different increased strength and static, resistant to deformation and decay.

Dry leveling of the surface is different:

promotion thermal insulation characteristics grounds.
Simplicity and accessibility technological process insulation installation.

Among the disadvantages are:

A significant rise in the floor level, which is unacceptable for small rooms with low ceilings.
The visual difference between a smooth and unfinished surface.

Dry leveling is performed according to the following scheme:

Thermal insulation installation, processing protective compounds and fixing the paint mesh with an overlap.
Backfilling of a leveling dry mix of expanded clay chips, sand and others binding components. Uniform distribution of the mixture over the entire surface.
Installation of the selected material - plywood or boards - in a checkerboard pattern so that the joints between the individual elements do not match.
Cleaning the surface and joints with a grinder and processing with a deep penetration primer mixture.

Wet screed

The method of leveling the surface is similar to creating a conventional screed for decorative trim.

The floating screed is prepared from leveling polymer and cement-sand mixtures.

Its main advantage is the creation of a monolithic base, resistant to the movement of a wooden structure. And the disadvantages include: an increase in the height of the floor pie, significant labor and financial costs.

Arrangement works wet screed are performed in the following order:

Increasing the strength of the base. If the logs are located in increments of 50 cm from each other, then it will be necessary to check and replace the deformed sections with the reinforcement of the structure with the help of bars.
Installation of intermediate flooring from the board. For these purposes, solid floorboards up to 4 cm thick are used, which are fixed on logs in compliance with technological gaps of 1 cm.
Installation of plywood or slabs up to 12 mm thick like brickwork. Technological gaps between individual elements are 3 mm.
Arrangement of a waterproofing layer from polyethylene film or oiled paper over the entire surface of the floor with fixation on double-sided tape.
Pouring ready leveling compound or cement-sand screed up to 10 mm high over the entire surface.

Express way to level the surface

It is used to level the surface, which is in excellent operating condition or has minor visual defects. For work, moisture-resistant cardboard is used, which is fixed to the draft board using self-tapping screws or special polymer-based glue.

The main advantages of the method include simplicity and low cost of installation, resistance to temperature changes in wood.

The process itself is carried out as follows:

Before installing drywall, the horizontalness of the floorboards is checked. Differences are eliminated by improvised means: waxed paper, roofing felt or fiberboard.
Drywall is mounted on the surface brickwork in two layers. It is important to ensure that the joints between the rows do not match.
A gap is provided along the perimeter of the base, and the seams between the individual elements are filled with sealant.
The base is carefully treated with a primer mixture.
The gap is filled with mounting foam, after which the plinth is mounted.

Laying ceramic tiles

The technology of mounting tiles on a wooden surface is quite simple for independent development. First you need to prepare working tools and materials:

Ceramic tiles.
Crosses for tiles.
Tile adhesive.
Construction mixer.
Spatula with teeth.
Rubber mallet.
Tile cutter.
Level.

Several options for mounting tiles are available: rectangular and checkerboard masonry, herringbone, rhombus or pattern.

Important! First, dry laying of the material on the surface for selection best way installation.

The main stages of laying tiles on a prepared base:

Drawing markings around the perimeter and dividing the room into four zones diagonally.
Preparation of the adhesive mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions per 1 square area.
Application of the mixture with a spatula and even distribution on the surface for mounting two elements.
Installing the tiles on the adhesive mixture with soft tapping with a hammer for tight shrinkage of each element. Placing crosses in the seam space to adjust the width of the seam.
Next, the material is laid to fill the entire surface of the floor.
Checking the quality of masonry with a building level.
After the adhesive mixture has completely dried, remove the crosses and grout the tile joints.

A well-laid tile on a wooden floor will allow you to get a reliable and practical coating that will last for decades. The main thing in this matter is to observe the installation technology, as well as take into account professional advice and recommendations.

Draft floors have several types according to their purpose and method of installation. First, you should consider their features and differences, and then talk in detail about the method of construction. As always, with an example, we will consider the most difficult option, if it becomes clear, then it will be much easier to make subfloors simpler.

According to the lags. Most often used as a base for finishing floor coverings with low load-bearing performance: laminate floors, linoleum, parquet board or block parquet. Draft floors in these cases perceive loads and evenly distribute them over the floor area. Sometimes such floors are called the base, this name is used by inexperienced builders, but it has the right to life.
Under the lags. In the lower part of the lag, cranial bars are fixed, they serve as the basis for attaching the subfloor, insulation, and vapor and waterproofing.
By load-bearing beams . In our opinion, the most good option, but it needs to be thought through at the design stage wooden house. Why do we think so?
The distance between the floor beams is ≈ 1–1.2 meters, specific values \u200b\u200band thickness values are calculated depending on the load. Then logs are placed on the floor beams with a distance of 40–60 cm. Why do double work, it is much more expedient to install floor beams a little more often, while reducing their size. The same beams will perform the function of the lag. What will be the result? Significant material savings.

If you calculate the number of beams for beams and logs in traditional version construction, the second option makes it possible to achieve savings of at least 40%. At modern prices for natural high-quality (and for these works lumber is used only from the very High Quality) in cash transfers, the savings amount to significant amounts. Another undoubted plus is the increase in the height of the interior, with a lag height of within ten centimeters, this is a noticeable increase.

Any low-quality materials can be used for the subfloor, unless it serves as the basis for the installation of finishing floor coverings. It can be either pieces of boards, OSB sheets, plywood or chipboard, or unedged boards. The thickness of the materials does not matter; boards or slabs with a thickness of one to three centimeters can be used on the same floor. It will be laid on thermal insulation materials, for them, slight differences in the height of the base are not critical. Of course, unedged boards should definitely be sanded, wood pests breed under the bark.

Second important point for all subfloors - protection against negative impact moisture. Currently, there are quite effective antiseptics in the implementation, with which you need to soak the boards at least twice.

Important. Before impregnation, lumber must be dried. The lower the relative humidity, the more they will absorb antiseptics, the more reliable the protection.

No antiseptic - not a problem. Just oil the boards, the effect will be exactly the same. Handle the ends of the boards for the subfloor with particular care. An inattentive attitude to the ends is one of the main mistakes of inexperienced builders. They first lay the cut boards on load-bearing elements, and then two surfaces are treated with a brush, they forget about the ends. The ends of the wood absorb the most a large number of moisture, in this place all capillaries of wood are open.

And the last. Keep in mind that no antiseptics will help if the underground of a wooden house does not have effective natural ventilation. The draft floor will sooner or later lose its original properties. You will have to change not only it, but also the entire floor covering.

If you are afraid of rodent penetration through the air, put on them metal gratings. If it seems to you that in winter the floor in the rooms on the ground floor is very cold due to the air (and this can be), then close them for a cold period of time. But be sure to open all the vents with warming. Ventilation, by the way, is a prerequisite for the durability of the lower rims of the log house.

Practical advice. Using smoke or a lighter, check the effectiveness of the products. Bring open fire to the holes and observe how and with what force the flame reacts to the air currents. Weak air movement - take immediate action to improve ventilation efficiency.

How to make a draft floor in a wooden house

Consider one of the most complex options- arrangement of draft floors along the logs without floor beams. This gender is often found in small rooms a private house or in cases of features of the construction technology of a log house, when floor beams were not used.

Important. Be sure to impregnate all lumber twice with an antiseptic, before that dry them well.

Step 1. Markup. Make a zero mark along the perimeter of the room using a water or laser level. This will be the level of the finished floor. From this label you need to minus the thickness finish coating and lag. Make a second mark, at this level there should be supports under the logs. They can be made from concrete, blocks or bricks. There must be concrete in the ground, only the above-ground part is allowed to be laid out with bricks.

Step 2 Make supports in any way, the distance between them should take into account the linear parameters of the log and the total load on the floor.

Step 3. Put all the logs under the rope, do not forget to isolate them with two layers of roofing material.

Practical advice. If possible, then at the bottom of the lag along the entire length, nail long boards, in width they should exceed the width of the lag by 6-8 cm. A subfloor will be laid on these ledges. It is much faster and easier to do this than later in an uncomfortable position and cramped conditions to fix cranial bars on both sides of the lag. Of course, the thickness of the boards should be taken into account when marking the position of the support posts.

Step 4. Fasten the legs. To do this, you can use metal corners and fix them to the walls of the log house.

Do not forget to make a gap of about 1-2 cm between the walls and the ends of the lag, take metal corners with oblong slots to ensure free longitudinal sliding. Tighten the screws in such a way that the logs can move in the slots. For reliability, it is recommended to attach the logs with dowels through at least one column, the side of the corner fixed to the log must also be movable.

Step 5 Prepare material for the subfloor.

We have already mentioned that in our case all trimmings are suitable, you can partly lay with plywood or OSB, and partly with pieces of boards or unedged materials. It is desirable that the sheets of plywood and OSB are moisture resistant, if there are none, then soak them with drying oil or an antiseptic.

Step 6. Check the distance between the lags. If it is the same, then you can cut off all the blanks according to the standard length.

Practical advice. Much faster to work with a template. Cut one board to size, it should fit between the joists with a gap. With this template, walk along the entire length of the lag. The dimensions are correct - use this segment as a template when cutting the rest of the blanks. Remember that measurements should only be taken from the template, and not from cut fresh boards. If each time you use a new segment, then errors accumulate, and they will certainly be, and the last boards may differ significantly from the required dimensions.

Step 7 Lay the boards on the prepared shelves. We have already mentioned that it can be either wide boards nailed at the bottom of the lag, or cranial bars installed later on both sides. Do not try to make the subfloor solid, small gaps do not affect anything. In order to save materials, it is recommended to specifically leave a distance of 5–8 centimeters between individual boards. But this can only be done in cases where pressed mineral wool or foam boards are used as heaters.

Step 8. Steam and waterproofing. If you have extra money and time, then you can install hydro and vapor barrier in any case.

If you do not want to act thoughtlessly, then figure out why such protection is needed. Mineral wool has excellent heat saving performance, does not rot, does not contribute to the reproduction of microorganisms, including fungi. This is great, but it has two very significant drawbacks. The first is with an increase relative humidity thermal conductivity increases sharply. Water conducts heat well, there is no need to talk about any heat-shielding functions. Second, it takes a very long time to dry. This means that all adjacent wooden elements will be constantly in the conditions high humidity. What is the result of such conditions need not be explained.

If you make insulation on the ground floor with mineral wool, then vapor barrier is required. It will not allow the penetration of moisture from the ground into the thermal insulation. If foam-based materials are used as thermal insulation, then such vapor barrier is unnecessary, these materials do not absorb water.

Now about waterproofing. In any case, the draft floor from below does not need to be laid with such materials; there are no “gushing” sources in the underground. But after thermal insulation has been laid on the subfloor, it is imperative to protect it from moisture penetration from the side of the finishing floor. This applies to all types of materials mineral wool and foam. Waterproofing protects not only them from water, but also subfloor boards and logs.

Insulating layer over mineral wool

Draft floor for "soft" floor coverings

With its help, not only the loads are evenly distributed over the surface, but also the logs are leveled or concrete bases. Such floors are used for laminate, piece parquet and parquet board or linoleum. The materials used are plywood, OSB or fiberboard, all materials must be waterproof.

The screed must be even, the difference in height cannot exceed ± 2 mm.

There are two ways to lay the subfloor on the screed: on the slats or directly on the base. The first method is used in cases where the base has significant irregularities, it is required to lay under the floor network engineering or make additional insulation.

Align concrete pavement using rails is much easier and faster than re-screeding using cement-sand mortars. Waterproofing is necessarily placed between the slats and the screed, the slats are leveled in height with various linings, fixed with dowels. The slabs of the subfloor are nailed with nails, the dimensions of the slabs must be adjusted to the distance between the slats. The side faces should be located in the middle of the rail, two plates are fixed on it at the same time. Make sure that four corners do not meet in one place, this position of the sheets can cause swelling of the finish flooring.

The second option for laying the subfloor along the screed is used on even bases that do not require additional insulation. For achievement perfect surface construction adhesive is allowed. It is smeared with a comb under the slabs and eliminates even the slightest irregularities, the subfloor becomes a single monolith with a screed. Further, the floor device algorithm depends on the materials used.

The heads of the hardware must be completely recessed; for this, special or home-made finishers are used. If by subfloor it is planned to lay linoleum, then it is recommended to grind the entire surface with an electric machine.

Plywood floor putty

Remember to always leave a gap of 1-2 centimeters between the subfloor and the wall. To prevent bridges from appearing in these places, place pieces of any heat insulators in them.

Video - Subfloor construction

Underfloor heating is an invention of the 20th century. Our great-grandfathers did not have a heating electric cable and gas boilers. However, they came up with their own way of heating. To do this, they used the walls of buildings. While laying, they left channels in them for the movement of hot furnace gases.

Today, there is no need to resort to such tricks. You can make warm floors in a wooden house with minimal cost forces and means.

The choice of a heating heating system is very simple:

Electric cable or mats with flat conductors;
Underfloor heating based on plastic pipes with a liquid heat carrier.

Both heating options deserve positive reviews. They are equal in terms of comfort and heat dissipation, but not the same in terms of energy cost. Electricity is essential more expensive than gas, so the heating cable for underfloor heating is best used in small spaces: bathrooms, kitchens and hallways. For bedrooms and living rooms, a liquid system of pipes, a gas or solid fuel boiler is best suited.

About the warm floor better than radiators much has been written and said.

We only note its most important advantages:

Optimal heat distribution. Zone comfortable temperature coincides with the living space (from the floor surface to a height of 1.7 meters). During battery operation, the air under the ceiling warms up the most.
A radiator heating system activates the movement of dust to a greater extent than a warm floor.
In terms of interior aesthetics, underfloor heating outperforms radiators.

Features of underfloor heating (water and electric) in a wooden house

The technology of laying a water-heated floor in a wooden house depends on the type of flooring. If the first floor and basement are closed reinforced concrete panels, then the heating system is made according to the "classical" scheme:

leveling mortar screed;
insulation (extruded polystyrene foam, perlite concrete);
heating cable or plastic pipes;
leveling screed covering the warm floor;
finishing coating (tile, parquet, laminate).

It is more difficult to make a warm floor when wooden beams are used to cover the basement and the first floor. In this case, there is no solid base, so the structure is assembled according to one of two options:

Option number 1

from below, a board is knocked to the beams to support the insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, perlite);
having laid the thermal insulation, plastic pipes are attached to the side faces of the beams;
cutouts are made in the beams for passing pipes;
they lay a fine wooden floor from tongue-and-groove boards or a rough one for laying parquet or laminate.

Option number 2

thick plywood is laid on the beams or OSB board(15-20 mm);
attached to the cover wooden bars section 50x50mm;
insulation is laid between the bars;
lay a material that reflects heat (aluminum foil);
pipes are placed on top of the thermal insulation, fixing them to the bars;
mount a draft floor from a board, gypsum-fiber sheets (gvl), particle boards or plywood;
lay the finish coating (ceramic tiles, parquet, laminate).

Two options for installing a warm water floor using "dry" technology

In advanced systems mounted on wooden floors, heat-distributing metal plates are used. They perform two functions: they form channels for pipes and reflect heat.

Heat-distributing plates of a water floor

To simplify installation, you can use ready-made factory chipboard with milled grooves for pipes. In addition, on the market you can find panels made of dense foam with stamped channels (foam shield). In them, pipe wiring is fixed quickly and easily.

Installation plastic pipe in foam board

The pipeline of any configuration is mounted in a profile plate (laminated mats with bosses)

In the case of using foam, there is no need to attach a board to the beams to support the thermal insulation. Rigid insulation in this case is attached directly to the surface of the subfloor. After that, a substrate is spread on it under the laminate or applied adhesive solution, then a reinforcing mesh and lay the tiles.

Foam board with distribution plates and pipe

Main disadvantage finished structures(foam board and milled chipboard) - high cost. Therefore, some home masters use more cheap way channel formation. They stuff wooden planks on the base, leaving gaps between them for laying pipes.

Using wooden planks and heat spreading plates for laying the heating pipe

Instead of expensive thermoplastic plates, you can use affordable aluminum foil(this method is suitable for both water and electric underfloor heating).

Planks are made from planed boards or cut from moisture-resistant plywood. Their thickness must be greater than the diameter of the pipeline (pipe 17 mm - rail 30 mm). To improve heat transfer, the channel width is made 5-6 millimeters larger than the pipe diameter.

"Folk ways" of forming channels for pipes

The width of the slats is made 3 cm less than the selected pipe layout step (for example, a pipe step of 30 cm - a board width of 27 cm). For a smooth bending of the loops of the pipeline, semicircular grooves are cut out in the slats.

Another way to lay a warm water floor with your own hands is shown in the diagram below.

The option of using galvanized corrugated board for laying pipes

The profiled sheet in this case acts as a heat-reflecting screen and forms channels for pipes. In the diagram, we see a variant of the installation of a heating floor not above the basement, but on the ground floor. From below, along the beams, a finishing filing of the ceiling was made from lining. Therefore, the shield (10), which supports the insulation, is attached not to the lower edges of the beams, but to the cranial bars nailed to their sides.

Please note that when laying thermal insulation (except for foam), it is always protected from above and below vapor barrier film. It protects the insulation from getting wet, as it allows water vapor to freely escape from it.

Leaving a thermal gap between the edge of the flooring and the wall, it is necessary to lay a damper tape in it. It seals the contact zone and compensates for thermal deformations.

Helpful advice!

For laying a finished floor, use a board that has undergone chamber drying. Do not rush to fix the finishing wood flooring to the base. Up to this point, the warm floor should work for at least 2 days.

Installation of a "dry" electric floor heating in a wooden house easier installation water system. A thin current-carrying cable does not need deep channels. It is fixed to the base plastic zip ties or metal plates.

The installation sequence looks like this:

A reflective layer of aluminum foil is laid on the thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, ecowool, perlite);
A galvanized steel mesh with a cell of 40x40 or 50x50 mm is laid on the foil.
Slots are made in the lags for the passage of an electric cable;
A cable is attached to the grid with clamps;
In the middle between the wires, a temperature sensor is installed in a corrugated tube and connected to the thermostat;
On a fireproof base or in a metal hose, a power cable is output to an electrical outlet;
A draft plywood floor is being laid;
Finishing coating is mounted (laminate, parquet board).

If the electric underfloor heating is covered with ceramic tiles, then the installation procedure changes. In this case, the insulation is covered with moisture-resistant plywood or OSB, fixing them to the beams. After that, a solution is applied to the coating with a spatula, a plastic reinforcing mesh is embedded in it and the tiles are glued. If the heating cable is not in a bay, but glued to the grid, then its installation is simplified. Having rolled out the roll, you just have to apply glue to the surface of the base and lay the tile.

Installation of ceramic tiles on electric floor heating

In the same way, a film warm floor is laid on wooden floors. It consists of thin mats with flexible current-carrying plates glued into them.

The minimum thickness allows you to mount infrared film floors not only under tiles and laminate, but also under linoleum and carpet.

Which floor in a wooden house is better?

The answer to this question is not unambiguous. If the cost of construction and work is at the forefront, then it is better to use electric floors. If we compare the price of energy carriers, then it is more profitable water system. To save the height of the room, a thin film floor is used.

Regarding heaters, the following should be said: foam for underfloor heating - not best material. Being in contact with a warm floor, working temperature which can reach +70C, it ages, releasing toxic gas. Therefore, it is better to lay ecowool or perlite between the floor beams.

Having chosen mineral wool for insulation, it must be well insulated by wrapping it with a vapor barrier. Otherwise warm air through gaps and leaks, it can carry its particles out of the underground space into the room. Under laying tiles, it is better to use a chemically neutral sheet material: cement-bonded, glass-magnesite board or gypsum fiber sheet. OSB and plywood are inferior to them in terms of environmental safety.

Wooden flooring above the warm floor should not be thicker than 21 mm. Do not forget that wood is a good thermal insulator, which reduces the efficiency of the heating system.

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