How to insulate the ground under the house. Warming the soil in the garden. Insulation of the base plate

In the first warm spring days the sun begins to actively warm the soil, and greenhouse installations.

The main methods of insulation:

Seam insulation and sealing. First of all, they insulate all the seams through which a draft can penetrate. The cracks that appear are filled with a sealing compound.

Electric ground heating. A thermal cable is placed along the perimeter of the greenhouse, which maintains the required air temperature.

Deepening the foundation for the greenhouse. Since a significant part of the heat escapes through the soil, it is better to deepen the base. The foundation is deepened to the depth of soil freezing to ensure minimal heat loss. When laying the foundation, the base is additionally insulated with roofing material.

Construction of a high base. The higher the greenhouse will be from the base, the less it will undergo freezing in winter. The basement is built at a height of 50 - 60 cm from foam concrete, expanded clay concrete and aerated concrete.

If there is no plinth on your site, insulation can be carried out with foam. Layers are laid along the walls and tightly fixed.

Structures of a closed vestibule in front of the entrance to the greenhouse. To cold air did not penetrate at the entrance build adjoining room, without heating, in which plants are not planted. The advantage of this room is the ability to store garden tools.

Layer of air. A good option for a double greenhouse. Inside, a second layer of glass, film or polycarbonate is installed, which completely repeats the shape of the greenhouse. The air gap formed between the walls will not allow heat to leave the structure.

Fill the structure around the perimeter. Insulation can be carried out with an embankment of expanded clay or sand. A trench is dug around the greenhouse, 60-70 cm deep and 40 cm wide, bulk material is poured into the pit and covered with earth from above, or laid out with tiles.

Installing the frame and pouring concrete, which will enhance the heat-shielding properties.

During the off-season, you can increase the temperature in the greenhouse using water bottles. Bottles filled with liquid are placed on the ground, which are heated during the day due to sunlight and give off their warmth at night.

Raising the beds by 80 - 90 cm will reduce the impact low temperatures to the root system.

Film for thermal insulation. Inner surface the walls of the greenhouse are glued special composition, which maintains the temperature due to the reflective effect, even in severe frosts.

Glass wool insulation. Fiberglass will retain heat very well if placed correctly. Layers of glass wool fill all the cracks, spaces, and voids between the supporting elements. Wool should not be compacted. Air must circulate between layers.

The most optimal and reliable way of insulation is to conduct a heating system.

I go sometimes

I figured here the need for effective warming of the soil under the transformer substation. And here's what happened:
The thermal conductivity of wet soil (10%) is approximately 1.75, the thermal conductivity of XPS (in wet soil) is approximately 0.04 (slightly rounded). The difference is slightly more than 40 times.
Let's take 150mm EPS as the necessary soil insulation (it will definitely not pay off with gas).
Let's leave 50mm of EPPS, and replace the remaining 100mm with wet soil. You need 4m of soil for an equivalent replacement.
Let's take the temperature delta in the screed and soil 30 "C (this is 34-36 in the screed). So the delta in the soil (from 0 to 4m) will be 20" C.
Under the house with an area of ​​100m2 there will be 1024m3 of soil (depth 4m, and 4m to the sides). Or about 2000t
This soil is the first heating season it will be necessary to warm up with a delta of 20 "C. Or on average up to 10" C.
The heat capacity of wet soil is about 0.5 kW / t * "C. That is, for warming up, it is necessary to spend 0.5x2000x10 \u003d 10,000 kW * h.
At electric heating this is about 25,000 rubles (or about 18,000 at the night rate.). But with gas only about 4-4.5 thousand rubles. And then the heated soil will work as a full-fledged replacement for 100mm XPS, without consuming additional energy.
The cost of 100m2 EPPS with 10cm thickness is 40-45 thousand rubles...
Those. the payback of these additional 10 cm EPS, with gas heating will be about 10 years (practically the maximum reasonable payback period). And this is under almost the most unfavorable soil conditions.
If there is dry soil under the house, with a lower heat capacity and thermal conductivity, then the payback period can increase up to 8 times, i.e. up to 80 years (on gas) or up to 16 years on electricity.
But these figures are for the annual warming up of the soil from 4 "C. And there is still the question of the reverse cooling of the soil during the warm period. It definitely will not return to the initial temperature. That is, subsequent heatings will be more economical (how much should be considered).
So the thought worries - is it worth investing in additional (reinforced) insulation of the soil under the transformer substation, especially for those who do not bother with enhanced wall insulation ... According to calculations, it turns out that it is not worth it ... At least for those who do not insulate walls polyfoam and mineral wool up to 150-200mm...

Moved this question from another more specialized thread...
Sorry moderators for repeat...

Each owner of a private house thinks about how to provide comfort and warmth in a home in winter period. A considerable part of heat loss falls on the foundation, so its insulation is no less important procedure than the thermal insulation of walls and roofs. Many do not know how to insulate the foundation in order to save on heating in the future. achieve effective insulation possible if you use suitable materials. There are several ways to insulate this part of the building.

The main methods of insulation

Any of the known modern construction insulation methods can be attributed to one of 2 categories:

• produced before pouring the foundation;
• produced on the finished building.

For greater reliability, the foundation must be insulated both from the outside and from inside. Please note that the concrete from which the base of the building is poured does not have thermal insulation. This must be taken into account at the stage of filling. Heaters with which this is permissible must be installed in the formwork under the foundation. You can use fixed shields for this purpose.

It is much more difficult to insulate the foundation of a private house, the construction of which has already been completed. Certain difficulties arise when working with a foundation that is laid at an inappropriate depth. If during construction the depth of occurrence was not calculated or was calculated incorrectly, then most likely the ground under the house will freeze heavily. In the most difficult cases, it is necessary to dig the foundation from 2 sides and lay the material around it.

The main methods of thermal insulation of the foundation are as follows:

• earth;
• polystyrene foam;
• expanded clay.

In addition to the main insulation works, it is also recommended to fill the floor in the basement with expanded clay to prevent it from freezing. In addition, it is desirable to insulate the ceiling above the basement. These activities are appropriate if ground water located high enough, since when they are raised, the ground under the house will let in more cold.

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Ground insulation

Scheme of frost-protected foundations: a - normal, b - shallow.

How to insulate the foundation without the cost of heat-insulating material? Very simple! Use simple land, a sufficient amount of which you always have at hand. This technology suggests that a private house will be covered with earth to floor level. The entire base of the building must be completely covered.

Please note that if you give preference to this method of insulation, then the air outlet will need to be provided in advance. It will need to be brought upstairs before filling the ground. It is the most economical but least effective method insulation. The earth has a low thermal insulation capacity. It is permissible to limit ourselves to this type of insulation if the foundation of the house is deep enough and it has a basement that will prevent the floor from freezing.

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The use of expanded clay

Expanded clay is a traditional insulation for the foundation. This method of insulation is the most popular today due to its low cost and efficiency. You can combine this method of insulation with earthen, in which case the efficiency will be increased.

Expanded clay must be laid in the formwork before pouring cement mortar to the foundation. Expanded clay has a unique porous structure, due to which it does not allow moisture and cold to pass through. Such properties of the material allow it to be used for floor and wall insulation. Heat loss is possible only through the cement falling between the granules. Expanded clay is often used to insulate the floor in houses with shallow foundations.

Expanded clay - very lightweight material: if you will use it during the construction phase, when the foundation of the building is already poured, then it is recommended to perform the lightest formwork possible.

Slate can be used as shields, as it is quite easy to install. The only drawback of expanded clay is its fragility. To insulate the floor with it, it is necessary to lay on top mineral wool, and on top - a film. The film will help protect the mineral wool from moisture.

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Thermal insulation with expanded polystyrene

Most effective thermal insulation able to provide polystyrene foam, which can be called modern material for real professional insulation. It is able to almost 100% eliminate heat leakage through the floor and foundation. On sale it can be found in whole plates.

Before installing polystyrene foam, waterproofing must be applied to the surface of the foundation. The slabs of material must completely cover the entire space from the bottom of the foundation to the floor level. Seams between separate slabs polystyrene foam must be sealed with mounting foam.

For high-quality and effective insulation, it is necessary to lay the plates as close to each other as possible. Expanded polystyrene is sensitive to ultraviolet radiation, so it is very important to use facing materials for his protection.

Many materials can serve as heaters, which either have a porous structure, or in their mass form many cavities that retain air. Where to look for them?

Under your feet

Earth, turf and peat are natural heaters that have been used in housing construction since time immemorial. The traditional dwellings of the northern peoples were huts with a base of poles covered with layers of peat or sod. Such houses were indispensable in the conditions strong winds. Until now, in Iceland, buildings break into the slopes of hills or fall asleep from the sides with earth so that the house is in a small hillock.

In many Russian villages, until the middle of the 20th century, the huts were still insulated with the help of earthen, sandy or peat mounds. They were arranged with the help of wattle or tesa, creating a box around the house, where the earth was poured or peat or turf was laid in layers. Since ancient times, turf has also been used for roof insulation: it was laid in several layers on a multilayer birch bark substrate. In the villages, soil was often covered over the ceilings for warmth, and the houses themselves were buried. The warmth of the earth allows you to raise the temperature of the air in the house by 1-2 degrees Celsius.

How it's done. There are several options: the house can be deepened into a natural or artificial hill, you can create a multi-layer wall with cavities for backfilling earth or dried peat, you can build the wall itself from bags of earth or overlay an existing one with bags of soil. The main condition for the device of such insulation: all building construction, which can rot on contact with the ground, must be isolated from it with a moisture-proof layer (polyethylene film, bituminous roll material or even birch bark plates).

Let's say you decide to insulate with bags of soil small house 3 × 4 m in size and 3 m high. With a bag width of 40 cm, only one wall will need about 4.8 m 3 of soil weighing 13 tons.

in the trash

Good insulation boards can be made from empty juice or milk bags.

How it's done. The bags must be washed, dried, hermetically sealed with lids or sealed, folded into plates and sealed in polyethylene film.

To cover one wall of 12 m 2, at least 770 liter bags are needed.

Among recyclables

Many are attracted by the idea of ​​​​using corrugated cardboard from boxes for insulation.

How it's done. Dry boxes can be dismantled, folded into multi-layer boards, wrapped in polyethylene film and sealed. When installing into walls, all seams between such impromptu slabs must be carefully glued with adhesive tape or covered with plastic wrap.

To close a wall with an area of ​​12 m 2 with one layer of corrugated cardboard, you will need at least 12 cardboard boxes 30 × 40 × 50 cm in size. To ensure standard thermal insulation, one layer is not enough, a panel with a thickness of 360 mm is needed, that is, at least 480 boxes.

In the field or sawmill

Hay, straw, reed, moss, sawdust or shavings are another category of time-tested natural heaters. Moss insulated (and continues to this day) interventional seams in log cabins. The roofs of houses were made of reed and straw, and their thickness could reach 1.5-2 m (at the ridge). Hay in the villages was covered in winter on the floor and ceiling, and thick woven straw mats were hung on the windows outside. The first post-war panel houses insulated with shavings.

How it's done. Chopped straw, reeds, shavings and sawdust can be used as backfill in shield wall structures. The organic material can be mixed with clay, cement, gypsum or lime. To protect against fire, sawdust and shavings are mixed with clay, cement, gypsum, lime (10 parts of sawdust per 1 part of binder and 1 part of lime). As an antiseptic, you can add to the mixture boric acid. Wall backfill made of organic materials is compacted in layers to eliminate the presence of voids in the insulated wall. From the outside of the house, the panel must be closed with a windscreen, and from the inside - with a vapor barrier.

To insulate a wall with an area of ​​12 m 2 with a panel 20 cm thick, we need more than 2 m 3 of sawdust, 20 buckets of clay and 20 buckets of lime.

Free price

As a rule, the use of improvised materials as heaters requires either colossal labor costs or extensive utility rooms for storing and processing materials, and most often both together. Before choosing one or another material for insulation, carry out a detailed calculation.

We have been hearing about the need to insulate the facade, walls, floors and ceilings for a very long time. And we've been doing this for a long time. Effect as they say on the face. After warming, it becomes much warmer and quieter in the house. This, in turn, removes many questions about heating and our gas bills. It is already clear to everyone that it is still worth spending money once and insulating your house completely - in order to save on heating bills in the future. Foundation insulation is a more exotic experience, and it gains popularity with its application on plinths. But the goal here is not much different. We are also talking about saving on heating, but last. As you know, the depth of the foundation should correspond to the depth of soil freezing. It depends on latitude. For example, in the gray regions of Ukraine, this is a maximum of 90 cm - 1 m. In the latitudes of Moscow, this is already 1.5 meters. Kharkiv somewhere 80-90cm. Of course, winters are getting warmer every year - many will say! Yes it is! But it plays very important role temperature fluctuation factor. Sharp thaws and then great frosts contribute to significant heaving of the soil.

Foundation insulation and soil

Agree that making a meter foundation is very expensive. If developers are offered the option to make the foundation smaller by 40% with the same characteristics, everyone will agree 100%. The insulated foundation does not transmit the coldness of the wall, but also insulates the soil layer. Ground freezing depth indicates how deep the ground will freeze. Below this depth, the temperature of the earth remains constant within +5 degrees. Before this level, the temperature drops below 0 degrees and the water contained in the soil freezes. As a result, the expansion of ice and soil volume occurs. It, in turn, exerts pressure on the walls of the foundation. Thus the foundation is destroyed. As a result of climate warming, thaws and frosts occur constantly. This erodes our foundations even more. In addition, the insulated foundation may have a smaller depth and, as a result, a smaller cross section. And this will save money. Less heaving soils are sand and granotsev - sand is sold for dumping from this Internet company

Soil drainage

I describe all these processes as a whole, because they have complete solution. To do it right and in the complex you need to do this:

• Insulation of the foundation tape
• Foundation waterproofing
• drainage system in for the foundation
• Soil insulation

See how everything is connected. If you do not do this in a complex, then you will have to break the foundation again. If the box of the building has already been erected, this can lead to irreversible consequences. If this is done immediately and correctly, then it will not cost much. Otherwise, the house will look like this photo: The drainage system is very important so that the house does not float, especially during rainy times. It will keep the soil constantly dry and reduce its ability to heaving. After all, wet soils puff much more. If you are building on wet ground, foundation drainage is a must. How to properly insulate the soil around the foundation The title already contains a partial answer to this question. It is necessary to insulate the soil around the foundation. What material to use for ground insulation? Extruded polystyrene foam is used here's why:

• Extruded polystyrene is stronger than regular polystyrene
• it sheet material and they are easy to work with
• When filling the ground will not break.
• It can serve as a bridge and will withstand a mass of concrete.
• It is durable and resistant in open ground

Ground insulation works

The first thing we start with is to determine the depth of soil freezing. It is different for different latitudes. The further north the area, the deeper the soil will freeze. I already wrote about this above. All documentation can be found online. But pay attention to the date of the last tests of the soil pits. The climate is changing, but it has not risen much. For greater reliability, it is better to take the data from the design institute of your city. Remember this value, it is measured in centimeters. Soil insulation is done to the depth of freezing to the side horizontally from the foundation. So, for example, in Kharkov it is about 80 cm. So from the outer edge of the foundation we will lay 80 cm along the soil surface with polystyrene foam. But just laying 80 cm sheets of polystyrene on the ground is not reliable and absurd, so we immediately make a blind area. We dig a 80 cm trench 10 cm deep. 10 cm is enough for concrete. We reinforce it with a welded mesh or reinforcement. We lay polystyrene foam on the bottom and pour concrete for the blind area. Along the perimeter with a ring around the entire building, we pour concrete for the blind area and at the same time insulate the soil. As you know, the cold that leads to freezing of the soil comes from the air. And PPS does not allow this cold to penetrate into the ground. How thick is the styrofoam layer needed? The thickness of the soil insulation layer should be 20 times less than the depth of soil freezing. For Kharkov, this is 80 cm and divide by 20! We get 4 cm. This is quite enough, no more is needed! The same thickness is needed for insulation of the foundation itself. Where else can this technology be used for soil insulation?

• In the same way, the cellar is insulated
• This is how roads are built in Germany
• Heaving protection for concrete pads
• Protection against heaving of concrete pavements