Damp basement in the country what to do. Dampness in the basement of a private house: methods of elimination, waterproofing and ventilation. Basement insulation intended for utility room

When building a house, garage or any other outbuilding, many homeowners prefer houses with a basement. This is extremely convenient, because there is additional space for storing various useful things, and if you're lucky, you can equip, for example, a workshop here.

However, construction is often carried out according to an “economical” project or with a violation of technology, as a result of basement a terrible and destructive enemy appears - moisture. It gradually undermines the structure, and its constant companion - mold fungus - spoils not only appearance and takes part in the destruction, but also renders substantial harm human health. The question arises, how to remove dampness in the basement?

Three reasons for dampness in the basement

Naturally, it is simply necessary to deal with all this, and first you need to find out the root of the problem. So, where can water and condensate come from in the basement, consider the main causes of dampness in the basement:

• capillary through walls, ceiling, floor;
• direct way through the cracks;
• condense from the air due to lack (or insufficiency) of ventilation.

Now that the enemy has been identified, you can proceed directly to the fight. Yes, before proceeding to work, the water from the basement, of course, must be pumped out and the room well ventilated, and, if possible, dried with a heat gun (fan, hair dryer).

Getting rid of cracks and capillary water in the basement

Cracks and cracks - the source of moisture in the basement

To do this, carefully check all surfaces for the presence of large and small cracks. May have to be completely or partially dismantled thermal insulation coating walls, ceiling, remove flooring. Having found the place of violation of integrity, we carefully close it. Then we produce waterproofing works. These works are divided into: internal (floor, ceiling, walls) and external.

Outdoor waterproofing

First you need to check the entire building from the outside, because very often the reason that the basement is flooded or simply damp is that the drainage system around the house is simply stupidly equipped.

It includes:

• • slopes on the roof, windows, above the porch;
  • drainpipes"directional action", that is, draining water into the funnel of an underground storm drain, or at least into an above-ground gutter;
  • drainage system around the walls of the house;

If all these components or at least part of them are absent, then this drawback must be eliminated. You should start from above, that is, from slopes and downpipes.

Now you can move on to the next step: protecting the underground part of the outer walls. For this:

1. We remove the old blind area.
2. Digging a hole a little more than half a meter wide beyond the outer walls of the basement (so that you can get into it and carry out work).
3. Dry thoroughly outer wall at home (natural or forced).
4. Coating the wall antifungal compounds (the choice in building stores is simply endless).
5. Coating the wall(can be clay, concrete based liquid glass or with additives that reduce moisture absorption);
6. Optional step: making an underground from a sheet of ruberoid. To do this, we fix it on the wall of the house 0.5 meters above the ground level and take it over the edge outer wall basement.
7. We fill the hole.
8. We equip the blind area(you can use any kind soft roof).

If serious excavation you can’t afford, then you can get by for the first time with only the last item. At the same time, a soft roof sheet should partially go onto the wall of the building (somewhere by 50–70 cm), and it is important to fix it well, for example, with the same bitumen. The second edge must go over the edge underground wall basement by the same 50–70 cm.

Internal basement waterproofing

To get rid of dampness in the basement, you must:

1. Good first.
2. Get rid of crumbling coatings.
3. Clear cracks.
4. close them up cement mortar.
5. Soak the walls with an antifungal drug;
6. Lubricate everything with a waterproofing solution (the simplest is bituminous mastic).

Pressure leaks, as well as their former places, must be very carefully repaired, for example, with alabaster.

To enhance the effect, you can plaster the walls completely or only partially 0.5–1 meter from the floor. But this step is not mandatory.

You can also make new walls from moisture-resistant material, in large cellars often build new brickwork. Between old and new wall there should be a distance of at least 3 cm. It is important to drill holes between the old and new walls so that the air from the basement exits into the outdoor vents, and also so that moisture does not accumulate between the walls.

Dampness in the basement can also provide the old floor, even if it concrete screed. To remedy the situation, it is necessary to remove the decorative flooring, close up all the cracks in the concrete, if any. Then wait until everything dries, cover it with sand or expanded clay - the layer should be about 5 cm, and then lay the roofing material or other waterproof durable material. After processing bituminous mastic you can make a new screed or lay logs, and on them - a plank floor.

Ventilation

Internal ventilation in the basement is a must. At the same time, it should be precisely the supply and exhaust. The most simple circuit: two pipes, one of which goes almost from the very floor of the basement and goes out under the ceiling, the second is located under the ceiling and also leads outside. The outer parts of the pipes must be protected from the ingress of melt and rain water.

Fighting mold fungus

The two main enemies of mold are oxygen and dryness. The first we have already provided by arranging good ventilation. If for some reason this is not possible, then the basement should be ventilated as often as possible, but remember that the fungus will definitely return. The second can be provided by drying ( industrial dryer, heat gun, heater). After drying, you can proceed to the treatment of walls, floors and ceilings with antifungal compounds.

If you have a rather old building, and cracks still appear in the basement from time to time (in the corners, between bricks), then as a temporary measure, you can plug them with rags smeared with bituminous mastic and plaster them on top.

In the basement, where you need to pump out water, it is worth organizing a pit- waterproof "glass" made of metal, concrete with waterproofing or other similar material. We will already pump water out of it with a pump.

The floor in the basement should be at an angle, even if small, directed to one corner. In this corner is a pit. Then all the water will collect where we can easily fight it.

Express method for removing moisture and dampness in the basement

For quick release from humidity, it is necessary to organize the collection of moisture with a hydrophilic substance (excellently absorbent). To do this, we take a board, put it at an angle in a bucket, sprinkle the board with hydrophilic powder (lime, alum, and so on). This method allows you to perfectly maintain dryness in the basement in the absence of the owners.

Blitz for the fastest

Briefly, all methods of dealing with dampness in the basement:

1. We carry out external waterproofing works (rainfall, coating of external walls with bitumen, arrangement of a blind area)
2. We remove mold.
3. We produce repair work to eliminate cracks.
4. We make new waterproofing.
5. Set up ventilation.

Having done all of the above, you can be sure that your home will be insured against the appearance of such an extremely undesirable phenomenon as dampness and mold, which can affect not only the basement, but also living quarters.

Dampness in the basement is perceived by many as a prerequisite, but this is a delusion. The basement should be cool, but not damp. And if during construction it is possible to foresee and prevent dampness, then in order to remove dampness after the Nth amount of time the basement has been used, you will have to try. One thing pleases: there is nothing impossible in this and it is not envisaged, all the work is feasible, relatively not expensive, and all of them are completed quickly enough.

Why dampness occurs

Excess moisture in the basement - this phenomenon can occur due to various reasons. The most common of them:

• Moisture absorption by walls or floors.
• Insufficient basement ventilation.
• The passage of moisture into the room due to cracks in the walls, ceiling or at the junctions of walls and ceiling.

Establishing one or sometimes several causes is how to properly diagnose a disease for a person. Then the treatment will be successful, and it will take much less time than rushing late.

Walls absorb moisture from the ground

If waterproofing was not provided for during the construction of the basement, only big thickness walls. Miscellaneous materials have different hygroscopicity, that is, the ability to absorb moisture into themselves. For example, brick is more hygroscopic than cinder block.

Two options can serve as salvation: if the humidity is not very high, then improving ventilation will dot all the “i”, and with high humidity, internal waterproofing of walls or floors saves. We will talk about ventilation in the next section, but now we will learn how to waterproof walls or floors in basements.

Few ways:

• Building new walls
• Waterproofing with mastics or waterproofing compounds.

The first way, let it not seem wild to you. It's pretty old way, which cannot be called ideal, but it is quite considered as an option. The bottom line is the construction of new walls at a small distance from the old ones - about 2-3 cm. Only with such an arrangement, it is necessary to think about ventilation from the new inter-wall space.

Waterproofing various materials also solves the problem. Bitumen-based mastics are able to keep moisture out. Preliminary cleaning of the walls and forward, you can apply.

Only both methods will not allow moisture to penetrate into the basement, but leave the wall material wet. Sometimes this is fraught with the destruction of the brick.

Poor ventilation or lack of it

If the basement is damp and you don’t know what to do, then ventilation will solve the problem and you don’t even have to use the first method. It just needs to be organized. For basements, it is customary to consider ventilation of high quality if it is a supply and exhaust. In the basement, two pipes leading outside are mounted in opposite corners. Only one pipe is flush with the ceiling, and the second almost touches the floor with its lower edge. In this case, the air circulation will be continuous and the problem of dampness will be solved for sure. There are only two nuances:

1. Obligatory peaks on pipes, otherwise the first thunderstorm will force you to go into the basement in fishing boots.
2. Pipe diameter plays a role. For better circulation, a larger pipe diameter will be needed, but in winter time there is a risk negative temperature in the basement.

cracks

When the basement is old and even your grandmother does not remember it, but not because of sclerosis, then cracks in it are already a pattern. Careful sealing of such passages for moisture is a quick and easy job. Cement-sand mortar, putty or even polyurethane foam for large gaps - these are the most available materials and a simple algorithm of actions.

Instead of a conclusion

Dampness in the basement is unpleasant and undesirable. It is only better to think about it at the beginning of the construction of the basement than after. But even if this happened, then you should not be especially upset, because everything can be solved. Determine the cause and choose a solution. Perhaps you know others effective ways eliminate dampness - then welcome to the comments below.

Getting rid of mold in the basement

Fungus is the oldest organism on the planet. Some of its species are used by humans in pharmaceuticals and Food Industry. The one that appears in dark and damp rooms does not carry any benefit and can be very dangerous for humans. In the people, he received the name "mold". In homes and offices, you can find the following varieties of it:

1. Mold is stains various colors(blue, green, brown, black) that appear on concrete and other surfaces coated with poor quality paint. Able to completely destroy the material and the entire decoration of the room.
2. Blue fungus - striking wooden coverings, destroys their structure, stains them blue and increases moisture. May promote the penetration of other types of mold into the material.
3. Rotting fungus - affects only wood. There are several types of such rot:

• bacterial - reduces the strength of wood, stains it gray;
• brown - can destroy even a very strong tree;
• white - very quickly destroys the affected material (oak boards about 4 cm thick can completely destroy in a month).

White mold is very dangerous both for the premises itself and the territories adjacent to it, and for the health of a person who is in such conditions. Requires special attention.

Causes and sources of mold

In order to basement mold control or cellar was effective, it is important to find out where it comes from. It develops from microscopically small spores present in the soil. They can be carried with dust, thus getting into the house. If there are suitable conditions for their life activity, they begin to develop and form a “mold colony” - a mycelium.

Basements are an ideal place for their reproduction for a number of objective reasons:

• the air is humid due to the proximity of groundwater;
• ventilation is poor or non-existent;
• the walls are not insulated enough, which is why they freeze;
• pipes (water supply, sewerage) may leak;
• boards already infected with fungus were used in construction / decoration;
• storage of spoiled products.

If condensation accumulates on the walls of the basement, finishing materials become wet, the fungus gets excellent conditions for their reproduction.

Understand what you have mold in basement or garage, can be on the following grounds:

• condensation on walls, ceilings and other surfaces - moisture is not able to evaporate due to problems with waterproofing, ventilation and heating;
• the air becomes musty - the fungus, receiving from the atmosphere the substances necessary for life, processes them, releasing various toxins and esters, which emit a specific smell.

If you notice any of the signs of mold, start fighting it immediately. The rapid spread rate will allow it to capture large areas in your basement in a short time. But the worst thing is that spores can also penetrate the human body. This can lead to some pretty serious health consequences. Let's dwell on them in more detail.

Why is mold dangerous to humans?

Microbial spores are volatile and very small. They are able to easily penetrate inside a person, and different ways- through food, skin, respiratory tract. Than it can be fraught?

1. Allergic reactions.
2. Headaches, migraine.
3. Indigestion - nausea, vomiting, etc.
4. Asthma, diseases of the upper respiratory tract.
5. Inflammation in the nose, bleeding.
6. Exacerbation of chronic diseases.
7. Pneumonia.

Avoid prolonged exposure to mold spores and toxins. This can lead to poisoning - mycosis. Possible damage to the kidneys and liver, internal bleeding.

Having decided to start the fight against the fungus, take care of the safety measures - do the work with gloves and a protective mask.

What is mold afraid of: methods of struggle

If the fungus has managed to capture only a small part of the territory, and the likelihood of its reappearance is negligible, try to adopt the following measures(they can be called preventive):

• prepare a formalin solution - mix a glass of 40% liquid with 10 liters of water;
• carefully treat them with all the affected areas;
• let the product dry;
• plaster the ceiling and walls.

It is important that the room is well ventilated. In this case, a small mold that has appeared in the basement will not bother you anymore.

Large territory captured

In this case, simple surface treatment does not get off - it is recommended overhaul premises, its complete disinfection, should also be improved hood in the basement and its waterproofing.

Mold removal work will consist of the following points:

1. Warming up a room affected by a fungus - forcing warm air into it.
2. The use of strong agents that kill mold.
3. Repair is the replacement of all contaminated materials.
4. If a natural ventilation missing in the cellar, you have to think about how to make an extract so that air can freely escape and enter the room.

Let us consider in detail all the measures to eliminate the fungus - how they are carried out, what means to use.

Preparatory stage

Before remove mold which struck quite large area, you need to get rid of all the excess in the room. This will allow you to carefully check and process each of its corners, which means preventing the remains of the fungus on some surfaces.

Preparation includes the following steps:

1. To provide access to all surfaces, the cellar is completely cleared of all items stored here - racks, cans, products.

Take them outside and carefully inspect, if necessary, disinfect. Otherwise, mold can again enter the basement through these objects.

1. Clean the walls and ceiling with a metal spatula - take care of loose and soaked areas of plaster with special care.
2. Floor, made from concrete, just clean off loose plaster. Remove at least 10 cm of soil from the earth, as it is likely that mold has settled there as well.
3. Carry out a full cleaning of the premises, all affected wooden materials throw it out.
4. Thoroughly dry the basement, and then proceed to disinfection.

Do not throw away during cleaning old plaster with land on a plot next to the house. Mold can infect trees, bushes and vegetables growing there.

Disinfection

To defeat the fungus, it cannot simply be scraped off and washed off, it must be destroyed. For this, various antifungal and antibacterial antiseptics are used, as well as some folk remedies.

sulfur checker

One of the old but effective methods mold control. Vapors of sulfur dioxide can kill the fungus even in the most inaccessible places. You need to use the checker as follows:

1. Close all ventilation openings and outlets tightly.
2. Set fire to the saber and leave it in the basement for several hours (preferably at least 10-12).
3. After disinfection is completed, the room must be thoroughly ventilated.
4. Treat all surfaces slaked lime.

Be careful when working with it: wear closed clothing, a respirator and goggles. After setting fire to the checker, quickly leave the room so that the gas does not harm your health.

Chemical and chlorine products

It can be various bleaching, washing and disinfectants- for example, known to many "Whiteness".

The disinfection process is simple:

1. Prepare a highly concentrated chlorine solution.
2. Treat them with walls, ceilings, all corners and other places affected by mold.

You can also use special antifungal agents - for example, Sanateks.

All these products are toxic! Be sure to use thick gloves and a mask during work. Leave the room ventilated for the duration of the disinfection.

vitriol

copper and inkstone also works great for mildew. We will see, how to remove fungus with it:

1. Prepare a solution of 50 grams of each type of vitriol and a liter hot water. Add some clay to it.
2. Coat the affected areas with the resulting paste-like mass, use a brush for this.

For greater reliability, repeat the procedure after a month.

Folk methods

Folk remedies can also very effectively eliminate mold. Here are some simple yet effective options:

1. Citric Acid or Vinegar - Mold doesn't like acid treatment, so this simple remedy works well. The solution is prepared from 100 grams of lemon powder or a liter of vinegar with a liter of water.
2. Salt with boric acid in a ratio of 1 kg and 100 ml, respectively, to 5 liters of water.
3. Deactin solution - treat painted surfaces and shelving with it.

In order to prevent poisoning with this substance, work in a mask, leave the room open.

1. Slaked lime - dries the air well, absorbing moisture from it. Place containers with it in the corners in order to prevent dampness. Mix a kilogram of lime with 100 g blue vitriol- two buckets of water. Spray surfaces with this mixture.

In the process of disinfection, carefully check every centimeter of the area - if any area remains untreated, then, affected by the fungus, it will reduce all your efforts to zero in a very short time.

Creating conditions that prevent the development of the fungus

Just removing mold from the basement is not enough. So that after disinfection the fungus could not enter the room, and even more so multiply there, you need to create the appropriate conditions here:

1. Ensure good external waterproofing - high-quality drainage system (downpipes, drainage, slopes on the roof). The presence of all its elements is important.
2. Make internal waterproofing:

• after thoroughly cleaning all surfaces, seal the cracks with plaster;
• after drying, treat the walls and ceiling first with an antifungal agent, and then with a waterproofing agent.

1. Cover the concrete floor screed with a moisture-resistant material, such as expanded clay.
2. Take care of good ventilation - if there is no possibility of natural air intake, you will have to make a vent in the basement.

To do this, it is necessary to remove two pipes from the room - from the ceiling and from the floor. Thus, here will always come Fresh air preventing the spread of fungus.

1. Periodic use of the heater will help reduce the humidity in the basement. For the same purpose, heated bricks (ceramic) can be laid out in the corners.
2. Every year, carry out preventive maintenance to combat mold:

• thoroughly clean and ventilate the room (this should be done on warm sunny days);
• process soapy water and dry all shelving and other furniture in the sun;
• apply an antibacterial agent to the walls, floor and ceiling;
• dry the cellar for a couple of days.

Many garages have a basement or cellar. In the absence of good air exchange, these rooms will quickly become damp, and there is a high probability of mold. In addition, various toxic substances (chemical fluids, car engine, etc.) can affect the products stored here.

So hood in basement garage should not only remove air from there, but also ensure its regular intake from the outside. This problem will be solved by supply and exhaust ventilation equipment. It can be done in two ways:

• natural air exchange - using two pipes, supply and exhaust;
• forced - less popular, but preferred option.

The first method is more accessible, this is its advantage. The second one is more efficient. If the garage is large, then you should stop at compulsory system ventilation.

You can improve air circulation in the subfield by installing air vent exhaust fan.

For the winter, corked in glass jars.

Deciding on terms

dampness problem, high humidity, and even flooding - one of the most common among owners own house with basement and cellar. So before looking effective methods struggle, it is worth deciding: what, in fact, are we fighting?

• Humidity

The cellar is a special building. It cannot be approached with the usual standards. What is good for a person is not always suitable for the stocks stored in the cellar. If for people normal humidity- this is 65%, then for most vegetables and fruits a moisture content of 70% is critical - they begin to wither, dry, lose useful material and, ultimately, poorly stored. Optimal mode differs for different fruits, but if it is not possible to organize separate storage facilities, then it is advisable to maintain the humidity level in the cellar within 85-90%.

Do not rely on your own feelings, use the device to control the humidity level. Air humidity is measured psychrometers and hygrometers. The simplest psychrometer can be made independently from two alcohol thermometers. And for convenience, you can purchase a small weather station with remote sensors temperature and humidity - then you do not need to regularly dive into the cellar to control the readings of the device.

• Dampness

If water oozes along the walls in the cellar, the corners are covered with gray-black velvet mold, then you don’t need an instrument to understand: there is excessive dampness in the storage room. Before looking for ways to fix the problem, try to determine the cause.

Get primary information it is possible, for example, by the method of arranging test pits. True, this test is possible only if the floor of the cellar is earthen.

Dig small holes (about the size of a bucket) in the cellar next to the walls and monitor them regularly. If the bottom starts to get wet in the pits, then, most likely, ground water stand high. It may happen that water will appear at the bottom of not all test pits, but only in some: this indicates that there is a leak under the cellar. underground stream.

When moisture seeps from the side of the outer (facing the street) wall of the pit - most likely, it penetrates surface water , rain or melt water. Well, if the water evenly moistened inner surface pits - to be assumed condensate.

• Flooding

Water regularly appears in your cellar, it stands in a puddle on the floor - this is the most difficult case. Perhaps there are violations in the construction technology or the place is simply unsuccessfully chosen. And to cope with the problem in this case is possible only by radically eliminating the cause - that is, by rebuilding the cellar.

Now that we have determined that the humidity in the cellar must be maintained within 80-95%, dampness must be dealt with, and the issue of regular flooding of the vegetable store should be addressed radically, we will consider some methods.

Eliminate the cause, not fight the effect

Whatever the extent of the presence excess water in the cellar, you need to eliminate the cause, and not permanently perform some work, buying the latest tools to or remove mold. It is much more efficient and cheaper if you calculate how much money you will spend on wrestling. Yes and own forces- they just don't seem to be worth anything.

We arrange ventilation

The presence of a system is a prerequisite for the proper functioning of the cellar. It should be exactly the system - with inflow and exhaust. Bottom supply pipe placed at a height of 150-200 mm from the floor, and the exhaust hole - under the ceiling. It is desirable that the supply and exhaust pipe were spaced in different corners: in order for air flows to wash the entire room.

ventilation pipes it is necessary that they do not freeze in winter, and also provide condensate collectors and valves. Gate valves are used to reduce the air flow in winter, so as not to cool the cellar too much in cold weather.

For effective work ventilation, you need to choose the right cross-section of air ducts - depending on the volume of the room. And if the pipes are already installed, but of a smaller diameter than necessary, a small fan will correct the situation. If the fan model has a humidity sensor, then it will turn on automatically.

Ventilation will help to cope with many problems of excess water in the cellar: it will regulate the humidity, eliminate excessive dampness, prevent the formation of mold and help dry the flooded cellar faster.

We divert water

To get rid of rain and melt water penetrating the cellar, they do and around the cellar. The blind area device should divert water flowing down from the roof slopes as far as possible from the walls of the cellar. And, of course, the correct waterproofing the entire structure.

To prevent the penetration of groundwater, the cellar floor is waterproofed. One of the stages of waterproofing is the installation of a gravel cushion that cuts through the capillarity of the soil. Sometimes it happens that at first the cellar was dry, and after some time of operation, groundwater began to rise. If the floor of the cellar is earthen, then additional gravel filling can be created by removing a certain amount of soil and replacing it with compacted gravel.

If the site is located in a swampy area and it is impossible to get rid of water with the help of waterproofing, then the only possibility is to make a cellar in plastic or metal caisson. Although in this case, you still have to deal with condensation and high humidity.

If droplets of water accumulate on the ceiling of the cellar, this is condensate. This means that the ceilings are not sufficiently insulated. You can fix this by additionally insulating the cellar ceiling.

We use hygroscopic materials

Decrease excessive moisture may materials that can absorb moisture. Clay serves as a natural moisture regulator, but today cellars do not often make adobe floors and use clay plaster on the walls.

A substitute for a clay finish can be a box of lime or a decent bag of salt. Coals are also good adsorbents. True, they will perform their function for a limited time: until all the lime reacts with water or until salt or ash absorbs the maximum amount of moisture. Whitewashing the walls of the cellar with lime not only disinfects, but also reduces humidity.

Achievements of household appliances - in the cellar

You can solve the problem of humidity with the help of achievements modern technology- installed in the cellar household dehumidifier air. You just need to remember to drain the accumulated condensate from time to time if the model does not have a sewer connection.

Correctly operating the cellar

In order for vegetables to be well stored, it is important and correct operation cellars. Before the start of a new storage season, the room is cleaned of the remnants of old fruits, mold, if any. Racks and drawers can be washed with a solution of formalin or copper sulphate. If possible, equipment should be exposed to the sun to destroy germs. If you can’t take out the containers and shelves from the cellar, then you can make quartzing with an ultraviolet lamp.




Disinfection is also carried out with the help of smoke sulfur bombs or lime vapor. After processing, the cellar must be thoroughly ventilated and dried. There is one subtlety here: it is logical to assume that it is better to dry the cellar in the middle of summer, when it is the most hot weather and many do just that. But in the summer warm air lots of moisture. On hit warm air inside a cool cellar, the moisture contained in it condenses on the walls, on the contrary, moistening the cellar.

The storage should be ventilated and dried when the temperature of the outside air and the temperature in the cellar are equal, that is, closer to autumn. And since the weather can be rainy at this time, you can use a heater or put a bucket of embers in the cellar to speed up the process.

Stored vegetables must be dry. And it is desirable that their temperature also does not differ much from that in the cellar. If the temperature of the products is higher or lower than the temperature in the storage, condensation will accumulate on potatoes, pumpkins, carrots and other vegetables - it will increase the humidity of the cellar.

Proper arrangement of a pantry for supplies, careful preparation at the end of summer and control over the state of the cellar in winter will keep the bins intact. You don't have to disappointedly throw away half of the crop that you have grown but failed to save.

If dampness appeared in the cellar, not everyone knows how to get rid of it. First of all, it is necessary to find out the causes of this phenomenon, because you can deal with the consequences, but soon moisture will still appear on the surface, which will lead to an increase in its concentration in the air. Because of this, the stocks of vegetables and fruits gradually deteriorate, the materials from which the cellar walls are made are destroyed. Having received an answer to the question of why it is damp in the room, you can get rid of the unpleasant consequences of this phenomenon forever. At the same time, stocks of products will remain for a long time.

Causes of dampness in the cellar

Such a nuisance can happen as a result of an increase in the level of air humidity, the formation of condensate on the surface, a leak at the joint finishing materials or structural elements. All these factors are the result of larger problems. Common reasons for increased humidity in the cellar:

1. Violation of the circulation of air flows. The main symptoms: stale air, the room becomes stuffy. Underground, and even more so at a significant depth, the natural circulation of air flows worsens, which leads to the accumulation of steam in the cellar. This is due to installation errors. ventilation system. Even if at first nothing interfered with natural circulation, over time, during the operation of the cellar, communications become clogged with debris and foliage. Because of this, the intensity of air exchange is reduced.
2. Answering the question why the air in the cellar is highly humidified, the probability of capillary penetration of liquid through the partitions of the structure that are in contact with the soil is also taken into account. main reason This is in violation of the tightness of the walls. It happens that all surfaces are covered with droplets, water drops appear in these places due to errors during the installation of the cellar foundation. As a result, the structure may collapse, which occurs due to the gradual deterioration of the quality of concrete.
3. Incorrect waterproofing or its absence.
4. Rising groundwater levels. The liquid rises in spring and autumn, which is due to frequent rains. If the drainage does not cope with the task of outflowing water, it will accumulate and stagnate on the cellar floor. This will give rise to bad smell, the products will spoil. The materials from which structural elements are made are exposed to negative impacts.

What is the danger of high humidity in the cellar

The first sign of a violation of the normal microclimate is condensation, followed by a musty, unpleasant smell in the room. Based on these signs, it can be assumed that such an indicator as the humidity in the basement has changed. Negative consequences this phenomenon:

• in humid conditions, mold and fungus intensively develop;
• is changing temperature regime in room;
• in conditions of high humidity, an increase in the number of harmful microorganisms is noted;
• regular contact with water can lead to the destruction of the structure;
• if the cellar is done fine finish, materials lose their properties under the influence of moisture;
• if the wall, floor or space under the floor often becomes damp, food can also become damp, as a result, it will be much more difficult to preserve vegetables;
• the appearance of rust on metal communications.

The fight against dampness in the basement should be carried out by complex methods. If you eliminate the obvious cause of condensation, but ignore the accompanying factors (inefficient ventilation, flooding during the rainy period), soon the negative phenomena will appear again.

Fighting mold fungus

The two conditions under which mold develops are: the access of oxygen is blocked, high level humidity. It is important to eliminate these factors, for which they improve or repair the existing ventilation system. Dehumidifiers will help get rid of moisture in the cellar ( building hair dryer, heat gun). An antifungal agent has a negative effect on mold. With its help, wood, brick, concrete surfaces. If, for various reasons, a high level of humidity could not be lowered, substances based on sulfur, chlorine or acid are periodically used.

How to remove dampness and humidity in the basement

An integrated method of struggle implies the need for simultaneous application waterproofing materials, dehumidifiers, as well as the need to install a ventilation system. Measures are being taken to divert groundwater. However, any work begins with the removal of the effects of moisture. Surfaces must be dried properly. There are several ways to eliminate dampness and water

• the use of a building hair dryer;
• drying surfaces with a heat gun;
• arrangement of drainage for the removal of accumulated water: clay, crushed stone, sand;
• pumping fluid through pumping equipment, for which a pit with a waterproof cylindrical sleeve is preliminarily equipped.

If the question is how to dry the cellar, it is not always necessary to consider all methods at the same time. The most suitable one is selected, taking into account the intensity of leakage or the volume of water. If there is little liquid, dry special equipment. In case of severe flooding, the last two methods are considered. Only in this case it is not enough just to remove excess water. After performing these works, it is necessary to use dehumidifiers.

When the level of humidity in the basement is lowered, they proceed to the next stage, which is to eliminate the cause of the change in the microclimate in the room. To this end, work is underway to restore protective coatings: internal and external waterproofing. The load-bearing structures are inspected. All defects are eliminated. Only after that you can proceed to the installation of a moisture-proof coating.

Along with this measure, one should consider the possibility of increasing the flow of air and normalizing the process of outflow of the spent medium from the cellar. For this, special equipment is used. However, first of all, the option of enhancing natural air circulation should be considered. So that in the future you do not have to face the problem of moistening the cellar again, it is recommended to take up the diversion of groundwater. For this purpose, drainage and strengthening / waterproofing of the foundation are used.

Use of dehumidifiers

Moisture must be removed, we remove all products and objects from the cellar, especially those that are flammable. Then choose a method of drying air and surfaces:

1. Based on the ventilation system. Even if the air circulates naturally in the cellar, it is permissible to choose this method. This group includes electrical appliances: industrial hair dryer, heat gun, specialized equipment (air dryer). More dangerous methods: gas burner, potbelly stove and kyrogaz.
2. The use of hygroscopic (absorbent) materials, they absorb moisture, but only up to a certain point. Any hygroscopic material can absorb and release liquid, which occurs when the pores in the structure are completely filled and under the influence of external loads.

If the first group of funds is considered, special attention is paid to the air dryer. Such devices pass the air flow through themselves. Inside, it passes through a chamber with cold air. As a result, condensate is formed, which settles on the walls of the tray specially provided for this task. If you are considering a heat gun or an industrial hair dryer, you should pay attention to models that are characterized by a power in the range of 2-3 kW. Less powerful devices will run slower.

The use of a potbelly stove, gas burner or kyrogaz in the basement is complicated by the risk to health and life. This is due to the fact that during the operation of such devices, carbon monoxide. It is impossible to be in the cellar until the device has finished working, and harmful substances won't fade. In addition, when burning open fire intensely heats surfaces and air. Sometimes average temperature in the process of drying the cellar reaches +70°C.

If methods of moisture removal without ventilation are being studied, bulk materials that absorb water well are considered. You can fill the floor in the cellar with salt, sawdust, newspapers, cardboard, corks, slaked lime. These are absorbent materials that absorb excess moisture. They should be changed periodically. To remove condensate, any of the materials or substances with such properties are left in the cellar for a while. This method will not completely solve the problem, but it will help to get rid of moisture for a short time.

Organization of the correct inflow and outflow of air

If the ventilation works effectively, the room will be dried out, there are two ways to dry the cellar after flooding or deformation of the supporting structure:

• natural;
• forced.

The inflow and outflow of air are enhanced by installing pipes in the upper and lower parts of the room. It is recommended to place them at opposite points. The top pipe must face the street. To prevent condensation from forming on communications, they are insulated. Forced ventilation suggests the need to install a fan, while the dampness in the basement will go away faster.

Internal waterproofing

If cracks appear in the foundation, they can be the cause of capillary moisture. To eliminate such a defect, sealing of leaks is carried out. Sequence of work:

• the cellar must be dried using any of the above methods;
• sections are removed from the wall and floor rough coating that crumble;
• dirt, dust are removed from the cracks;
• large defects are eliminated with cement mortar, if the leaks are small, they are filled woven fabric, then covered with silicone sealant;
• given that dampness in the cellar may appear from time to time, it is recommended to treat all surfaces with an antifungal compound;
• from above, the structure is covered with a material for waterproofing.

As a moisture barrier, use any of the following options:

1. Roll waterproofing of the floor and walls: roofing material, hydroisol. From above, the coating is protected by a moisture-resistant finishing material.
2. Injection waterproofing. It consists of introducing special composition into concrete. The material fills the pores and prevents the penetration of water into the structure of the walls and floor.
3. Mastic, polymer resins. Such compositions can only be used as auxiliary insulation, since they do not provide 100% protection against leaks.

Outdoor waterproofing

It is necessary to maintain a microclimate in the cellar, in which the concentration of moisture in the air is lowered, it is possible to lower the humidity by organizing a drainage system from the supporting structures:

1. Remove the blind area.
2. It is recommended to dig a trench 50 cm wide along the perimeter of the outer walls of the basement / cellar.
3. The walls are dried, plastered, antifungal composition is applied.
4. Bearing structures are covered with mastic or concrete mortar with glass additives.
5. Build a blind area using roofing material.
6. Produce backfilling with soil.

Groundwater diversion

Constantly damp basement / cellar and accumulation of water on the floor can cause the structure to collapse. To avoid such troubles, it is recommended to divert groundwater (stormwater, drainage are being arranged). Sequencing:

1. Excavation is carried out along the perimeter of the foundation.
2. Arrange drainage.
3. Strengthen the foundation, then it is isolated from moisture outside and inside.
4. A blind area is made around the perimeter of the base.

Additionally, sand and gravel are poured onto the cellar floor. Thanks to this, groundwater will not rise to floor level.

Conclusion

To reduce the humidity in the cellar, it is recommended to find the cause of this phenomenon. If all is removed negative factors, you can save bearing structures intact, because excess liquid adversely affects materials. It is recommended to use a complex method of moisture control. If it was possible to normalize the microclimate in the underground, in the future it is necessary to control the parameters of the air environment in this room.