How to strengthen the gutter in the country. How to properly strengthen the walls of the drainage ditch. Strengthening slopes with slate or car tires

Unfold to save required level soil moisture on the land plot. If groundwater lies close to the surface of the earth or there is heavy rainfall, then a drainage ditch is necessary to remove excess water. A drainage ditch is usually located along the site.

The site where the house is built needs to be equipped with a drainage system - a complex and by no means cheap design.

Closed drainage network ( concrete pipes for a ditch) is expensive, so landowners prefer to deploy several open ditches that connect to each other. In this case no piping is required. However, an open gutter also has a disadvantage. It consists in the fact that over time the slopes crumble. Therefore, it is advisable to strengthen them, especially if there is a drainage ditch along the fence.

The method of strengthening is chosen depending on the angle of inclination of the walls of the ditch and on the depth of the trench.

If the angle of steepness is less than 8°, then the strengthening of the slopes is carried out by planting.
Geogrids and geomats fix slopes, the angle of which is in the range from 8 ° to 15 °.
Steep slopes, the angle of steepness of which is greater than 15 °, are reinforced using reinforcement from the inside. For this, methods of reinforcing with geogrids and gabions are used.

Shallow trenches are laid out from the inside with stones.

Consider the most popular strengthening methods.

Option 1 - a three-dimensional geogrid to strengthen the walls of the drainage ditch

The geogrid is very often used to fix the slope. It is a cellular mesh of reinforced threads intertwined with each other. The junctions of the threads are additionally fixed. For production, a polymeric material is used. Also polymer compositions use for additional processing to reinforce the grid. The roots of plants planted near the soil easily penetrate into the cellular holes and thereby create additional soil anchorage on the slope surface.

Geogrid limit slope deformation and ground movement

The polymer from which the geogrid is made is resistant to decay, unfavorable natural factors, corrosive processes. The grid is not subject to deformation and has high wear resistance; able to withstand high loads and stress. The geogrid is made from flexible material, so it is laid even on an uneven surface.

Lay the grid as follows:

With help manual roller compact the soil inside the ditch.
Next, rolls of material are rolled out, the strips are joined together.
Fasten the material inside the trench every 1.5 m with special brackets.
The grid is decorated or masked by backfilling or planting.

Option 2 - anti-erosion geomats

The structure of the geomat consists of layer-by-layer connected polypropylene gratings fastened with polypropylene threads. Outwardly, it resembles a multilayer cobweb. The gaps between the threads are small, so the geomat holds the soil of the slope and prevents the spread of vegetation roots. Over time, the plants are tightly intertwined with the material and reinforce the walls of the ditch.

Polypropylene geomats are resistant to conditions external environment(water, sunlight, temperature changes, decay), non-toxic, non-flammable.

Laying the coating is easy and can be done even in winter. Work is performed in the following sequence:

Trench preparation, cleaning.
We fasten the edge of the roll with anchors to the top of the slope.
We roll the material to the bottom of the trench and cut it off.
The lower part of the piece of material is fixed.
We roll out the next strip of material from top to bottom with an overlap of 15 cm from the previous one.
A layer of earth 3-5 cm is laid out on the coating and seeds are planted. At the same time, the mesh to strengthen the slopes is further enhanced by vegetation.

The geomat is distinguished by its porous structure, which allows the root system of plants to easily grow through the material.

Option 3 - homemade gabions

Gabions are a frame made of metal mesh, filled with material such as stone, pebbles and other. The cell size of the frame is made larger than the material being poured. This design holds and decorates the slope.

The mesh is made of double twisted metal, galvanized or PVC coated to avoid corrosion. First, the installation of the gabion is performed, and then the selected material is poured.

Gabions are factory-made and own. To make gabions on your own, you need:

Weld from rods for the slopes of the ditch. The diameter of the rods is about 6 mm.
Install the frame in the ditch.
Next, fill the frame with pre-purchased filler and close it with a metal mesh.

Option 4 - volumetric geogrid

The geogrid is a strip of synthetic material fastened in such a way that the coating itself appears as a honeycomb structure. Filler is poured into the cells. At high humidity, it is preferable to fill in crushed stone or pebbles. If the slopes are dry, then sand can also be used.

Geogrids are made of perforated strips and strips. Perforated geocells have the best drainage properties, so they are the most preferred for strengthening the drainage ditch.

A non-perforated coating can be used if a geotextile layer is first laid!

The width of the tape determines the height of the lattice rib. The cell width also varies. The bulk material and the angle of inclination of the trench wall to be reinforced determine the choice of the geogrid.

The material used for geocells is characterized by increased wear resistance, strength, resistance to putrefactive processes and other environmental influences.

Various fillers can be filled into geogrid cells

The process of laying the coating is carried out in several stages:

We level and compact the soil on the slopes of the ditch. If necessary, we line the bottom of the trench and geotextiles.
The cover is laid from top to bottom.
We stretch the coating and fasten it with anchors with a bent upper end. It is important to do this correctly, as the service life depends on it.
We fill the geocells with filler.

Option 5 - budget methods

Under conditions of scarcity Money can apply economical options structures that will strengthen the slopes. Ways to strengthen the ditch on suburban area a lot has already been invented. Let's describe some of them.

Old tires - popular for giving

Tires are laid in rows, fastened to the surface and to each other. Then the filler is poured, including in the gaps between the tires. The drainage pit is also strengthened by the tires.

slate sheets

The option is inexpensive and does not require special efforts. Installed and fixed sheets of slate on the slopes of the ditch perform a strengthening function, but the material is not wear-resistant.

Slate is popular and cheap material, and besides, there is in almost every area

We put the foam with our own hands

An inexpensive option is the slopes of the foam. The material is resistant to decay. Styrofoam is also used as a geotextile layer. Strengthening the drainage ditch with polystyrene slopes is popular among owners of cottages and private houses.

retaining walls

Retaining walls - a method that prevents the collapse of soil from slopes under different angle. It is widely used not only in drainage ditches.

There is different types retaining walls. They are made from materials: wood, stone, brick, concrete and others. For gutters, it is preferable to use a moisture-resistant material: concrete, stone. The design of the retaining wall should be calculated by professionals or independently in specialized computer programs. Retaining walls are needed to strengthen the drainage ditch.

The retaining wall looks like this:

Foundation. Takes on the main load. This part of the wall is located below ground level.
Body. Actually the wall itself, which is created from selected materials.
. It is placed behind the wall above the foundation. It prevents the erosion of the structure.

For example, consider the construction of concrete retaining walls.

Concrete reinforcement of the ditch at their summer cottage is characterized by strength and durability. If necessary, the concrete wall is decorated with stone, brick or other facing material. The first step is to dig a trench, the depth of which depends on the slope being fixed from the collapse. For example, for a slope of 1 m, a trench for the wall is dug with a depth of 0.3-0.4 m. A frame is made from boards fastened together. A layer of rubble is laid out at the bottom of the trench and a reinforcing mesh is installed. Concrete is poured into the prepared frame.

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The tree is more often used to strengthen the walls of the pit. To eliminate the risk of soil collapse along the perimeter of the pit, vertically expose wooden bars butt. Spacers are laid out at the bottom (horizontal boards abutting vertical ones).

There are many ways to strengthen yourself. Factory materials are considered more reliable than improvised materials. To determine the reinforcing material, they analyze the type of soil, the angle of inclination of the slopes and financial possibilities. Strengthening the drainage ditch is important point, which must be taken into account when installing sewerage in the country.

Not everyone was lucky enough to become the owner of a land allotment on a flat, sunlit and at the same time dry area - many are forced to be content with plots on soils with high level groundwater and high risk of flooding. However, this is not a reason for sadness - you can get rid of this problem!

Features and purpose

Before understanding the features of the drainage ditch, one should dwell on the very concept of "drainage". So, drainage is the process of draining swampy soil and removing excess moisture from the soil. This term also refers to the device of a system of trenches, ditches and wells, which are designed to drain water. Why is it necessary?

Excess water in the ground creates many problems. Constant "squishing" underfoot and non-drying puddles are just the smallest of them. Other troubles are much worse.

Negative impact on landings. Collect good harvest in conditions high humidity almost unrealistic, the roots of plants rot, and the seedlings simply do not develop.
High groundwater excludes any possibility of arranging a basement or cellar under the house.
A great danger threatens the house itself, as well as additional outbuildings on the site, since during the period of active snow melting, the earth is filled with moisture and begins to swell. This creates additional pressure on the supporting structures and often causes deformation of the supports.

Drainage arrangement is considered great solution which will help prevent all listed problems. As a rule, private areas are protected with a drainage ditch in which a pipe is fixed. This system creates good conditions to collect and remove water to a lower zone.

It is quite possible to create protective structures in the country on your own, but this must be done before the start of improvement work. Drainage ditch, pipe or well - these elements form the drainage system on the site.

Even before the start of work on the arrangement of the site, it is important to determine the likelihood of flooding, as well as evaluate your own capabilities and choose a drainage system that best suits the terrain and budget possibilities.

There are several types of drainage ditch.

open drainage- this system is considered the simplest, it does not require serious earthworks, the only thing that is needed is to dig several ditches throughout the site, and also bring rain pipe. Such a system allows you to effectively remove excess irrigation and rainwater.
deep drainage- this option is more laborious, it is used in areas where groundwater is located close to the surface, as well as in clay soils with poor moisture absorption. The basis of the drainage structure here is a pipe, reinforced in a previously dug trench. The latter, in turn, leads to a special water collector or a larger collector pipe.
vertical drainage- such a system involves the arrangement of a network of several wells that are mounted around the building, the moisture poured into them is pumped out by a pump. This is efficient system, however, it requires careful engineering calculations and costly work.

Where is it needed and what are the requirements?

The drainage ditch is most often provided for on a relatively small areas, this is due to the low degree of automation of work on its implementation, the need for regular repairs and short term operation. For industrial purposes, ditches are practically not used.

There are certain SNiPs that establish standards and requirements for drainage ditches.

In accordance with them, it is strictly forbidden to bring a trench with storm water to:

water bodies inhabited by living organisms;
washed out ravines or unfortified ditches;
flowing streams and rivers;
reservoirs, on the banks of which family recreation areas are equipped;
lowlands prone to swamping.

It is not allowed to install a drainage ditch on land plots in cases where the height of the groundwater flow is less than 2 meters. Otherwise wastewater may enter watercourses. For such areas, experts recommend equipping channels equipped with closed hatches.

All types of drainage systems are subject to the standards of SP 104-34-96 and SNiP 2.05.07-85. They specify the permissible angles of inclination, the maximum distances to residential facilities and other structures, as well as the best options for execution, depending on the characteristics of the soil, terrain, as well as the required bandwidth ditches.

In accordance with them, the following requirements are distinguished.

On flat terrain, the angle of inclination should not exceed 3-5% - this roughly corresponds to a height difference of 3-5 cm every 10 meters.
The drainage ditch should be arranged away from the fences and load-bearing structures of the house and outbuildings, otherwise there is a high probability of erosion of their base. Therefore, the distance from the ditch to the erected structures should be at least 30 cm, and the walls of the drainage system should be without fail must be sealed so that water does not wash out under the foundations.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of a drainage ditch are obvious - this is the possibility of effective removal from excess moisture from the site which means reducing the risk of the following unpleasant phenomena:

flooding of the land;
waterlogging of the soil and the frequent formation of non-drying puddles;
rotting of load-bearing wooden supports of building structures;
death of plant roots;
inhibition of the growth of seedlings on the territory of the land allotment;
mold formation and active reproduction of the fungus;
excessive accumulation of dirt in the local area;
development of chronic bronchopulmonary diseases due to constantly high humidity.

A nice bonus is the possibility of self-arranging a ditch. This does not require any special equipment, every adult can take a shovel and dig a trench, and, of course, this is the lowest-budget drainage method, since it requires almost no financial costs.

But among the shortcomings, you can specify the following:

the ditch is less efficient than the storm sewer;
this type of drainage system has a rather short period of use;
the ditch requires regular maintenance and periodic compaction, as well as clearing and restoring the embankment.

Many believe that the drainage ditch significantly worsens the landscape, however, experts assure that, if necessary, it is possible to decorate the trench so that it harmoniously fits into overall design site.

How to do it yourself?

Owners of summer cottages and suburban areas are most often engaged in arranging a drainage ditch with their own hands.

In order for the drainage system to be as efficient as possible, first mark the site, and then wait for the first heavy rain and look where the most water accumulates - it is from there that it is necessary to remove water in the first place.
The easiest way to make ditches is if the land on the site has a natural slope, then the only thing you need is to dig a U-shaped hole along the fence. Although quite often a trench is dug in the shape of a Christmas tree, the "branches" of which are wound up on different areas land allotment, and then reduced to a single "trunk".

The depth of the ditch should be 70 cm, and the width should be about 40-50 cm. It should start above the level of the house in order to fully collect the runoff of melt and rainwater, and be discharged outside the site through the installed drainage pipes.
The bottom of the trench is usually laid out with crushed stone, which is tightly compacted, and a perforated corrugated drainpipe with a diameter of about 10 cm is laid on the gravel.
On the finishing stage the pipes are wrapped with a layer of geotextile and the slopes of the trench are strengthened.

If the site is devoid of slope, then other types of drainage system should be preferred.

A drainage system is necessary for most sites on which houses are built or will only be built. This design is not cheap, so prudent owners most often seek to save money as much as possible without causing damage to the quality of the structure. This can be done by arranging drainage on the site. open type. It is a system of interconnected grooves that effectively drain excess water.

The main thing is to properly strengthen their walls in order to protect them from shedding. You need to know that not all grooves need such an arrangement. If the angle of inclination of the walls is less than 8%, they can not be strengthened. Slopes with a slope of 8 to 15% are best secured with geomats or geogrids. If the slope of the walls is more than 15%, internal reinforcement should be used.

5 most effective methods for strengthening the slopes of drainage trenches

Use of geomats

This coating is made in the form of a kind of interweaving of three layers of three-dimensional polypropylene meshes. Lattices have double orientation and are fixed among themselves by means of polypropylene threads. The result is a material resembling a porous bulk washcloth. It fixes the soil well, but does not pose an obstacle to the development of plants.

The anti-erosion coating is durable and resistant to aggressive environments and microorganisms. It is non-toxic, insensitive to sudden temperature changes and does not burn well. Over time, the structure of geomats is only strengthened due to the fact that the roots of plants braid polypropylene gratings. The coating is very easy to lay, and you can do it if necessary, even in winter.

Before strengthening the walls of the groove, they must be cleaned of debris and leveled. After that, they start rolling out the geomat roll. Its edge is securely fixed on the top of the trench, the material is lowered down, a strip of the desired length is cut off. The next panel of the coating is laid on the first with a slight overlap. The laid geomats are covered with soil with a layer of 4-5 cm. Later, plants are sown in it.

Installation of a volumetric geogrid

The anti-erosion material is made in the form three-dimensional construction. It is a polyethylene tape welded together in a checkerboard pattern. The result is a strong synthetic frame, consisting of cells of the same size. Filler is poured into them, which is selected based on the operating conditions of the structure. Crushed stone, sand, pebbles, etc. can be used here.

There are two types of geocells: with perforated and solid walls. The first option has the best drainage characteristics and it is they who are recommended to strengthen the slopes of the grooves. In addition, the geogrid can have different sizes cells and wall height. Either way, the material is different. high strength and flexibility. It does not rot and is resistant to various aggressive environments.

Installation of the cover is quite simple. The groove walls are leveled and compacted. If necessary, they are covered with geotextile, after which a geogrid is laid from top to bottom. Be sure to fix the top and bottom edge of the cover. Moreover, fasteners are installed from below after the material is stretched and acquires the desired shape. Filler is poured into the resulting cells.

Fixing the walls with a three-dimensional geogrid

The material is intended for fixing and reinforcing steep slopes. It is a polymer mesh of an interwoven structure, which is greatly enhanced by monofilament stitching. To give even greater strength, the coating is impregnated special formulations. The structure of the material does not interfere with the growth of plants whose roots strengthen the crumbling slope of the groove.

The geogrid is non-toxic, easily tolerates significant stresses and temperature changes, is insensitive to aggressive environments, durable, and does not rot. Moreover, during operation, the characteristics of the coating remain unchanged. It withstands ground displacement, subsidence and frost heaving. It can be used to strengthen surfaces of any configuration.

Before laying the anti-erosion material, the slope is cleaned, leveled and compacted with a roller. The mesh is rolled out along the wall and every 1.5 m is fixed with L-shaped anchor fasteners or metal brackets. Each next strip of material is laid end-to-end with the previous one. The laid geogrid is covered with a small layer of soil or decorative backfill, on top of which plants are planted.

Installation of gabions

To strengthen the slopes, box gabions are well suited, which are a mesh frame filled with pebbles, crushed stone, stone, etc. The structure of such decorative structures does not interfere with the drainage process. At the same time, they prevent the removal of soil from the walls of the trench, strengthen its slopes and decorate the landscape. Over time, the effectiveness of gabions only increases. The service life of such structures is tens of years.

For installation, you can purchase prefabricated structures or make them yourself, which is not so difficult. Frameworks of future gabions are welded from metal rods, filled with the selected filler and closed with a chain-link mesh. For the manufacture of elements, it is desirable to choose a material with anti-corrosion coating otherwise finished the structure will not last long and will have to be repaired. published

It is quite easy to equip drainage around your site to remove excess moisture. It is important to choose the optimal format according to which the drainage ditch will be prepared along the fence, and to determine the required set of materials and tools.

Problems to be solved:

In areas with heavy rainfall, soil erosion is a problem;
With a high passage of groundwater in the area, the soil is waterlogged;
With a natural slope of the site, all the water accumulates in the lower part and “pulls” the entire fertile soil layer with it;
In hilly and mountainous areas, depending on the season, a huge amount of water falls on the site from the territory above the slope;
Atmospheric precipitation since pavement accumulate under the fence along the perimeter of the site and are able to wash away the base and supports of the fence.

In all these situations, the optimal solution is the arrangement of drainage ditches or a productive hidden drainage system around the perimeter of the site.

The main task of the drainage ditch is to collect surface precipitation and remove it from the site.

However, it is not used to transport excess water., it is rather a localized drainage field, where excess water accumulates and gradually soaks into the ground, without bringing negative consequences for buildings and the fertile soil layer of the site.

Kinds

There are three types of drainage:

open;
closed, laying of perforated pipes with backfill;
backfill, the ditch is filled with coarse gravel and filter media for quick water drainage.

For arranging drainage under the fence around the site with outside the easiest way is to use open drainage ditches with reinforced slopes and a stable slope so that all excess water from the site and adjacent territories, including the road surface, quickly went to the depth of groundwater or was transported to the drainage field, drainage well.

Of the main advantages:

small volume of land works;
minimum materials;
an extensive selection of slope strengthening;
an easy way to maintain, clean and prevent drainage.

Requirements. Distance from the fence

For any drainage systems oriented to the reclamation of a private plot are standardized by SP 104-34-96 and SNiP 2.05.07-85. Negotiated optimal slopes for the organization of a drainage ditch, the distance to the fence and other structures, as well as options depending on the required throughput and characteristics of the drained area, such as general slope, soil type, etc.

For flat area or with a slight slope of up to five degrees to the horizon, an additional slope along the bottom of the ditch should be 3-5 ‰ (ppm), which corresponds to a difference in height of 3-5 cm for every 10 m.

In fact, the quality of the slope and its uniformity are determined on site during the preparation of the trench. It is difficult to ensure the shape of the trench with high accuracy, so it will be necessary to correct its geometry during the operation of the drainage.

It is important that the drainage ditch is located at a distance from the fence posts and supporting structures so as not to blur their base. It is enough to move the upper boundary from the plane of the fence by 30-50 cm, and when arranging the reinforcement of the walls, compact the soil so that the water does not wash out under the fence.

Wall reinforcement methods

The drainage ditch only partly acts as a transport system, the water entering it must be effectively absorbed into the soil along the entire length along the bottom of the ditch. It is not advisable to use concrete sections or otherwise reinforce the bottom.

The use of a rigid waterproof base is allowed only if underground communications pass under it, which should be protected from the effects of precipitation and groundwater.

Effective ways to strengthen slopes:

During the earthworks and the preparation of the foundation of the ditch, an extended pit is dug with a width of about twice as much as necessary. A pillow of coarse sand or gravel is poured along the bottom.

Slopes are compacted manually or mechanically, are covered with the material selected for reinforcement. Next, a layer of soil is poured in the same way with tamping and compaction, only of a lesser intensity.

Calculation

In order for the drainage ditch to cope with the task, several important rules must be followed:

The depth of the ditch along its entire length must be greater than the depth of the foundation nearby buildings by 300-500 mm;
The slope along the entire length, taking into account turns or detours along the perimeter of the site, is directed to one point or along the lower boundary of the site;
The slope is determined by the composition of the soil and the design capacity and is in the range of 1 to 5 cm for every 10 meters of extension.

In the presence of drainage well, separated from the contour of the drainage ditch, you should take the extreme point of the drainage system that is separated from the well and calculate the depth, and then calculate the control points located along the route, which will be used to derive the correct geometry of the ditch.

DIY

Equipping a ditch is quite simple and do-it-yourself, even if you do most of the land work by hand. However, the complexity will be caused by the presence of a large volume of selected soil along the length of the ditch.

It can be used to equip the front garden around the perimeter of the site so that it is raised above the general ground level.

The easiest way to use the option is to strengthen the slopes with biomats, geomats, mesh or geotextiles. In this case, there is no need to over-compact the soil under the base, you can limit yourself to a small amount of loose drainage, sand or gravel, which will significantly reduce the load on the performer.

Price

A qualitatively, quickly and aesthetically pleasing drainage ditch can be organized using heavy rafter equipment.

In the minimum volume, an excavator is required, which will dig the base for the ditch in a matter of hours and at the same time it is easier to adjust the shape and geometry of the slopes, the depth of the base.

The executing company will prepare a project of work and an estimate in advance, so as not to guess about the cost of work after the fact and count on a guaranteed result.

The main burden on the budget of this event may be the preparation of a drainage well, if necessary, the rest of the work is much cheaper.

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