The bluish color on the pine board is the reason. Blue on a tree: causes, danger, methods of getting rid. Conditions for the formation and development of mold fungi

CLIENT QUESTION:

A stack of new, purchased pine boards lay for 2 weeks, after which some of the boards went black and blue in spots. The boards lay on sleepers laid on the ground, each layer was laid with a bar. In each layer, the boards were laid with a gap of 1-2 cm, during the rain? covered with foil.
Tell me, please: What is this black and blue disease and can it be cured? pine?
TorgLes ANSWER:

Hello Dear Customer!
I have been manufacturing and supplying lumber for 15 years. I sell lumber on the market? Slavic world?.
Your mistake was that in dry and hot weather the wet board remained closed, thus a greenhouse effect arose and the board turned blue.
Actually this is a common headache as a seller as well as a buyer. Because the suppliers do not comply with any standards, because the harvesting technology and GOST are becoming a thing of the past as the Union.
Freshly felled and sawn pine is sure to turn blue. That is, we are talking about a violation of the harvesting technology, since a sawn tree in a round timber must be left to winter, when temperature regime does not rise the mark?10 degrees Celsius. That is, moisture is removed by freezing by squeezing out of the pores? natural way.

Winter Wood? the most favorable for construction, because it has a lower percentage of humidity and is less susceptible to fungal bacteria in the future, i.e. it does not turn blue.

A tree felled in spring and summer? does not freeze and has high humidity. The board and timber starts to turn blue despite the fact that you laid it out on gaskets and covered it, moreover, even when transporting it to the customer’s construction site in a car closed type the material may darken in places.
This process is especially susceptible to a small board with a section of 100x25, 150x25, sometimes 150x40 and very rarely timber. Because of this, disputes often arise between the supplier and the customer. Many capricious Citizens do not care that darkening is a property of freshly felled and sawn pine material and does not lose its functions as a board or timber material.

Wood and board 2-GRADE? sometimes when sawing logs it becomes clear that the forest is blue in the bud. I, as a supplier, consider this issue as a loss of presentation, the only question is the price. Moreover, we dissolve it as a 2nd grade, i.e. we leave one working surface (we maintain the size in width), the other comes out ashed. T. to this board has no special claims to quality and goes to rough work.
FALSE sellers and suppliers:

By the way, the statement of many sellers and suppliers of edged lumber that they are trading in the midst of? Construction season? winter wood? it's a lie?. As a rule, by mid-July-August, wood harvested in winter from suppliers who serve large metropolitan areas ends. And then goes into action? FRESH?. That is, a tree after cutting down in a round timber is immediately delivered to a sawmill and sawn to the ordered sizes.
TorgLes TIP:

Yes, I agree that there is one and reliable way remove this problem? ?SEPTING?.
But there is an old-fashioned way, when there was no chemistry at all, by the way, many sellers on the market still use this method:
In good dry, sunny weather, row by row, the board is laid out in the sun and dried. Under influence sun rays the board is fired and the surface darkens a little and the places of stain formation also, later stains and blue do not appear anymore. (don't forget to turn them over during the day)

It looks like a board that lay in the sun and dried up (in the photo on the right), on the left (SVEZHAK):

By the way, there are a number of positive points here. Is there? NATURAL SELECTION? boards, i.e. it will be possible to find out which board and where to put it in during the construction process, because some boards will be unscrewed in the sun and they can be put aside and used for rough work (formwork, scaffolding, subfloor, etc.). ), the rest of the boards, the longer they lie, the greater? WEIGHT? how the material will be collected.

The most popular material that is used when construction is started or, despite technological progress and latest developments, is still wood. It is also related to his technical specifications, and with the fact that the cost of repairing an apartment in Moscow can become significantly less if wood is used, and not, for example, metal elements. Alas, the wood is subject to various damages and quickly becomes covered with dark gray spots and blue stains. With damp air and high temperature flying fungal spores quickly do their job. What to do? Should the affected material be disposed of or can it be salvaged? Let's try to figure it out.

Correct workpiece

Why does wood darken? In fact, everything is simple. Wood is a biological material that has its own certain humidity. Microscopic spores of mold and fungus, freely moving through the air, settle in a nutrient medium and begin to multiply actively there. Unfortunately, this process cannot be prevented. During construction or when, for example, an office is being renovated, it is difficult to process wood. What to do? First, choose the right material. Winter wood is considered the highest quality. It is harvested at a time when the temperature environment does not exceed 10 °C. Such conditions naturally cause moisture to freeze out of the pores. Winter blanks have an optimal percentage of humidity - 10-12, or even 8%. Such wood is the least susceptible to infection by fungi and mold.

Due to the absence of natural freezing, wood harvested in the summer, due to the activity of the construction season, is sometimes immediately sawn and goes on sale. It is raw, and therefore its use threatens with trouble. Not only can blue spots appear on the tree, it can also become deformed. This is especially true for boards, since the smaller the cross section, the easier it is for the fungus to penetrate inside. Actually, that is why the blue on the beam is a rather rare occurrence.

Secondly, it is better to purchase aseptic wood, especially if the construction is going to be long or you are stocking up on material for future use. This material completely soaked in a protective solution at the factory. A uniform layer is enough to prevent the spread of fungus on the surface of the product, which significantly increases its shelf life.

You can also impregnate purchased boards yourself. To do this, you will need a sprayer, roller or brush. However, this is quite labor intensive. It is best to take a non-tinting antiseptic impregnation that does not form a film on the surface of the material.

Fungus that stains wood blue color, is not the only pest that can ruin building material. However, unlike other lesions, blue is dangerous symptom, since it not only penetrates deep inside, but also precedes decay.

Save or discard?

If the blue has settled on the building material or on finished construction, you need to get rid of it. The sooner you do this, the better. You can bleach it special formulations. However, the first step is to dry the surface, ventilate the room - in general, do everything possible to get rid of excess moisture.

Wood bleaches are most often made on the basis of chlorine. For example, these are Neomid 500, Sagus +, Senezh EFFO. It is not always possible to remove blue from the first time. Therefore, the surface is usually re-treated. After bleaching, the wood should be washed. This is necessary to avoid efflorescence. Then it is dried. Only then can the result of the work done be evaluated.

It is important to bear in mind that bleaches are effective only in cases where the spores have not penetrated very deeply and have not affected the core. Sometimes it is easier to throw away building materials than to revive them. The penetration depth of the impregnations is on average 3 mm. If it can be seen with the naked eye that the damage to the wood is excessively large, if inside it is dark, almost dark and has a loose structure, then bleaching will not help in any way.

Potion for wood

Having performed the bleaching procedure, you can begin to apply a protective layer. For this, antiseptics are used. They may or may not form a film on the treated surface. The latter require regular treatment, since the biocide included in their composition is quickly washed out under the influence of precipitation. Antiseptics that do not form a film, as well as primers on wood, are applied before further painting (enamel, transparent glazing or completely covering with moisture-resistant paint). They are also applied to wood, which will subsequently be closed. finishing materials in particular siding.

Primers penetrate quite deeply into the wood, they create a vapor-permeable coating and often contain UV filters. On the surface, they form an elastic coating that promotes better adhesion to paint or enamel. Among them there are those that can be applied to raw wood, the moisture content of which does not exceed 40%. Also, primers can cover parts of structures that will be constantly under the influence of adverse factors. Such compositions include Belinka base, AQUATEKS and primer-impregnation VDAK "On a tree".

The compositions that form the film not only protect the surface, but also create a decorative layer that gives the wood a pleasant shade. As a rule, manufacturers offer consumers about 10-15 colors to choose from. Antiseptics also protect the tree from fading and lightening.

For internal works primers and paints based on acrylate are used. Such compositions are distinguished by good thixotropy (that is, they do not drain) and do not have an unpleasant odor.

For outdoor use, it is best to choose solvent-based paints - alkyd azures. They will create a more durable coating.

When applying acrylate film-forming coatings, it should be remembered that their color appears only after complete drying. Alkyd, on the other hand, incorporate various waxes and oils, which provide a special coating strength.

So, in most cases, wood can be saved. However, no manufacturers of antiseptics guarantee that the blue will not return again. Repeated problems can be avoided if the wood is treated in a timely manner with appropriate compounds, monitored and cared for. So any building and structure will stand for a long time, delighting with its beauty and impeccability.

AT total in nature, there are about a hundred species of marsupial fungi of the genus Ceratocystis, which color certain types of tree species blue. In wood protection guides, the term blue or chemical color is used to refer to such fungi.

The most famous blue of the pines, which colors the lumber sawn from pine in a bluish-gray color. Pine lumber begins to turn blue when wet and dry. warm weather when the average daily temperature is set above + 10 ° C, while the occurrence of blue requires wood moisture content of more than 20% and poor ventilation. For the Ural region, this time usually comes at the end of the May holidays and ends with the onset of the first frost, so it is more advisable to purchase lumber for construction in the winter.Purchased lumber is stored at the construction site in piles on spacers, i.e. each row in the stack is separated by spacers for better ventilation. Such stacks of lumber are very well ventilated during the spring months, and by the beginning of the construction season you get dry lumber with a moisture content of about 18%, which is no longer afraid of blue.

Blue lumber with a moisture content of less than 20% humidity is quite suitable for construction purposes, the strength of such lumber does not deteriorate, it is also noted that when such wood is painted or coated with any compositions, the absorption of such wood is much higher. However, it should be remembered that one must not re-occurrence suitable conditions for the growth of the fungus, as the development of blue will be started again.

Blue on wood can also develop in an already built house, again if there are favorable conditions for its development. As a rule, if blue develops inside the house, then this first of all indicates very poor ventilation of the rooms in the house, excess moisture is not removed, thereby contributing to the development of blue, and then the appearance of mold.

During normal operation of a house built using lumber, the wood inside the building has a moisture content of about 6 - 12%, and on outside at home, such as the roof area, the edged board has a moisture content　within 15-18%. It follows from this that, only for very complex weather conditions(rainy season, flood) and poor ventilation, wood moisture in such areas can exceed 20% level.

The eternal problem of freshly sawn material or the main questions of customers. How to store material? Correspondence example:

QUESTION client:

A stack of new, purchased pine boards lay for 2 weeks, after which some of the boards went black and blue in spots. The boards lay on sleepers laid on the ground, each layer was laid with a bar. In each layer, the boards were laid with a gap of 1-2 cm, during the rain they were covered with a film.
Tell me, please: What is this black and blue disease and is it possible to “cure” pine?

Hello Dear Client!
I have been manufacturing and supplying lumber for 15 years. I sell lumber at the Slavic World market.
Your mistake was that in dry and hot weather, the wet board remained closed, thus there was a greenhouse effect and the board turned blue.
In fact, this is a common headache, as a seller as well as a buyer. Because the suppliers do not comply with any standards, because the harvesting technology and GOST are becoming a thing of the past as the Union.
Freshly felled and sawn pine is sure to turn blue. That is, we are talking about a violation of the harvesting technology, since a sawn tree in a round timber must be allowed to stand for the winter, when the temperature regime does not rise to -10 degrees Celsius. That is, moisture is removed by freezing by squeezing out of the pores - in a natural way.

Winter Wood- the most favorable for construction, because it has a lower percentage of humidity and is further less susceptible to fungal bacteria, i.e. it does not turn blue.

Tree felled in spring and summer- does not freeze and has high humidity. The board and timber begin to turn blue despite the fact that you laid it out on gaskets and covered it, moreover, even when transported to the customer’s construction site in a closed type car, the material may darken in places.
This process is especially susceptible to a small board with a section of 100x25, 150x25, sometimes 150x40 and very rarely timber. Because of this, disputes often arise between the supplier and the customer. Many capricious Citizens are not in the house that darkening is a property of freshly cut and sawn pine material and does not lose its building functions as a board or timber material.

Wood and board 2-GRADE- sometimes when sawing logs it becomes clear that the forest is blue in the bud. I, as a supplier, consider this issue as a loss of presentation, the only question is the price. Moreover, we dissolve it as a 2nd grade, i.e. we leave one working surface (we maintain the size in width), the other comes out ashed. Because this board has no special claims to quality and goes to rough work.

By the way, the statement of many sellers and suppliers of edged lumber that they sell winter wood in the midst of the "Construction Season" is a "FALSE". As a rule, by mid-July-August, wood harvested in winter from suppliers who serve large metropolitan areas ends. And then goes to the case "SVEZHAK". That is, a tree after cutting down in a round timber is immediately delivered to a sawmill and sawn to the ordered sizes.

Yes, I agree that there is one and reliable way to remove this problem - "SEPTING".
But there is also the old-fashioned way, when there was no chemistry at all, by the way, many sellers on the market still use this method:
In good dry, sunny weather, row by row, the board is laid out in the sun and dried. Under the influence of sunlight, the board is burned and the surface darkens a little and the places where stains form, too, as a result, stains and blue do not appear anymore. (don't forget to turn them over during the day)

It looks like a board that lay in the sun and dried up (in the photo on the right), on the left (SVEZHAK):

By the way, there are a number of positive points here. There is a "NATURAL SELECTION" of the board, i.e. it will be possible to find out which board and where to put it in the construction process, because some boards will be twisted in the sun and they can be put aside and used for rough work (formwork, scaffolding, subfloor, etc.), the rest of the boards, the longer they lie, the greater the “WEIGHT” as the material will gain.

Wood is durable, strong, eco-friendly and lightweight building material. It is actively used for the construction various designs: baths, gazebos, houses, etc. Buildings are warm, safe, comfortable.

Wood has a lot positive properties, but there are also disadvantages. The most unpleasant of them is the blue or blackening of lumber, logs or timber. These pigments downgrade the wood material and make it unsuitable for construction work.

The main causes of blue and blackening of wood according to scientific developments

The main reason for the scientific development of blue and blackening of timber, logs, lumber is the development of Ceratocystis fungi, it is they that pigment the surface of the wood.

Many blame the improperly organized procurement of materials for their formation, but most often a violation of technology leads to their development.

For example, the processing of logs, timber or lumber was carried out incorrectly or at the wrong time. protective compounds. And in the future, as soon as the most favorable conditions for the development of fungi are created, they will immediately show themselves.

Another reason for the formation of fungi is incorrect organized storage wood. Sometimes they are in a room with excessive humidity, average temperature and a complete lack of ventilation - these are the conditions that are optimal for the formation and further development fungi.

Opinions of experts on the causes of blue and blackening of wood

White, black and blue spots on wood are formed as a result of exposure to fungi. They feed on the cells of the wooden material and leave behind pigmented spots.

Even though these lesions are not rotten, such wood cannot be used in construction, otherwise other, healthy materials will be infected. Basically, such pigmented areas are eliminated, completely removed, and then the material is used for its intended purpose.

The most dangerous is that fungi can get through cracks, pores into the wood, then begin to destroy the structure of the wood, leading to its decay.

To a greater extent, the culprits for the contamination of materials with fungi are their owners. They store wood in the open, folded sometimes even just dumped in a heap, it will not be possible to avoid the formation of biological agents.

The tree under the influence of precipitation will constantly get wet, and the lack fresh air, which does not enter the lower "row" will lead to their defeat by fungi. Long-term exposure to ultraviolet sunlight can also lead to blackening of wood.

How to deal with this unpleasant phenomenon

To keep safe wooden material from fungus, rot, the following series of measures should be carried out:

• Organize proper storage wood. Logs, beams, lumber should not be in a humid environment, otherwise they will become very attractive to microorganisms.


• Treatment of wooden material with protective compounds. Antiseptic compounds should be applied immediately after assembly of the structure, they will prevent the appearance of mold fungi, mildew. If you plan to store wood, then it must also be impregnated with protective agents.


• At the end of the assembly, the log house must be placed under a roof or a canopy to protect it from precipitation and harmful moisture.

By implementing these measures, the formation and growth of biological agents can be prevented.

More than once I came across the opinion that the defeat of lumber with a thickness of 1 mm absolutely does not threaten lumber, logs, or timber, and therefore they are in no hurry to cope with this problem.

Really wood-staining fungi and mold on initial stage development will not be able to bring significant harm wooden material, they will not impair its strength, will not destroy the structure in the coming months.

But do not forget that they will prepare wooden surface to the appearance of other, already more dangerous wood-destroying fungi, which will begin to rapidly destroy the wood.

It will be much more difficult to destroy these pests, and the damage caused to the wooden material can no longer be eliminated, to restore its former strength, to improve appearance won't work anymore.

Therefore, the appearance of wood-staining fungi on logs, beams and lumber should be alarm signal for owners and should immediately begin to eliminate them.

In addition, if they are infected with wood in a residential area (for example, crowns in a house), then residents, inhaling their spores, do great harm to their health. Allergic diseases may appear, serious problems with the respiratory system, constant headaches, etc.

If, nevertheless, the defeat of lumber, timber or logs has already occurred, the defeat must be immediately eliminated, otherwise the wood will become unusable.

• First you need to adjust the humidity level in the room. A high percentage of moisture is a nutrient medium for the growth and development of microorganisms. Also, wood needs to be provided at least periodically with an influx of fresh air.


• After optimal humidity air - 20%, has been reached, you can proceed to the next stage of work. Namely, to destroy biological agents with the help of special bleaching compounds.


• If the damage to the wood is not more than 1 mm, then they can be removed by grinding the material without resorting to processing logs, beams, lumber with special bleaches.


• Treat the material with antiseptic impregnations or film-forming protective compounds in several layers. If you do not cover the wooden material with these compositions, then fungi and mold will soon form on their surfaces again.