Many novice growers do not fully possess the skills of cultivating varieties, they need advice or tips. It is not easy to understand the intricacies of the case, to understand all the nuances. Prepared thematic material will help to master the art of creating favorable conditions for a ripening vine on grapes.

The main rule of the grower is that each variety has its own specific ripening period. Therefore, shrub species are classified according to several main features, on which care, its volume and timing will depend:

1. Productivity. There are varieties of productive, low-yielding and champions.
2. Weather resistant. Grapes originally grew in the south, most species continue to be cultivated in warm climates, while there are hybrids artificially adapted for the northern regions.
3. Susceptibility to diseases and pests. Different in most varieties - from extreme insensitivity to complete effeminacy.
4. Appointment. Table, technical and universal grapes (this also includes decorative).

The list can be continued by adding breeding methods, taste qualities berries, portability of transportation and others. With regard to the timing of ripening, the month in which the clusters ripen, the berries are divided into ultra-early, extra-early, early-medium, medium, medium-late, late and very late.

Each type has its own undeniable advantages, by default, medium and late varieties are sweeter than early ones. But sometimes breeders breed hybrids that combine excellent taste and fast ripening.

The grape variety is “tied” to the region in which it will be grown: the later ones will never be able to ripen in the conditions of a short Siberian summer, moreover, they will not endure the test of cold in winter period.

Of the early species, the most popular are Aleshenkin, Arcadia, White Miracle, Zilga, Moscow White, Victoria, Early Vavilova, Kesha, Decorative and Muscat Chasselas. From the middle ones - Kishmish, Gift to Zaporozhye, Nadezhda AZOS. Late varieties - Moldova, December, Karaburnu, Taifi and others.

An experienced grower varies varieties on his plot, alternates them to harvest berries different shapes, taste, color, purpose during the warm season. Therefore, residents of the southern regions of the Russian Federation, with long summers and mild winters, are in a more advantageous position.

Super early

This category includes varieties that ripen in 105 days. The countdown begins from the moment the central buds open, the full period depends on air temperature, weather, and humidity. In a hot, arid climate, berries ripen worse than in relatively cold ones. The main advantage of such species is that they are guaranteed to ripen and give a harvest. And most problems (pests and diseases) can be safely avoided with them.

very early

Ripens between 105 and 115 days, suitable for Middle Band. Such varieties will be in demand, as they are among the first to bear fruit, serving delicious, fragrant berries on the table.

Early

Early grapes have a growing season of 115-120 days, which is enough for clusters to decorate sweet ripe fruits at the end of July. The spread in color, size of berries, bouquet is great - there is plenty to choose from.

early-middle

Medium

These include varieties that ripen in the time interval from 125 to 135 days. These are Armenia, Aelita, Beige, Voskhod, Seaside - more than 5 dozen items in total.

Late

A number of diverse, not similar to each other, types of grape berries are closed by late varieties. They sing the slowest of all - 135 days and longer. There are many delicious, sweet, unique varieties in this category, but they are the most susceptible to classic grape diseases and require careful care.

These include Agadai, Dniester pink, Isabella, Tair, Anniversary of Moldova. They can grow in southern regions, in others they will not have enough time to mature.

Factors affecting the ripening of berries

This, of course, is the sun, air and water. Everything should be in moderation, to a greater extent it concerns watering and wind. Grapes are sensitive to waterlogging of the soil, the roots will simply rot, and constant drafts will cause a “runny nose” in the vine - the buds will develop poorly. Without knowledge of these subtleties, the harvest cannot be harvested.

Proper placement of vineyard rows

With a large-scale planting, the bushes are placed in such a way that they do not interfere with each other's development, do not obscure the sun. At different varieties different requirements as they can grow up, sideways or both directions at the same time. One-Stop Solutions no, you will have to look for clues in relation to the selected species in order to provide the plant optimal conditions development.

Sometimes mint is planted near the grapes - its tart smell repels aphids. It is allowed to place bushes near the walls of buildings to protect seedlings from drafts.

How to speed up the ripening process of grapes

This section is not for lovers of dangerous experiments and all sorts of "improvements". It will not work to make an ultra-early variety from a late variety, otherwise breeders would not have been painstakingly working for decades to create adapted hybrids, crossing different varieties.

You can influence the growth process of the vine if you correctly choose a planting site, feed the bush, prune and stop pests from trying to settle on the grapes. Mulching, sheltering, banding, soil replacement (partial or complete), pinching are also used.

Spring treatments

In the spring there is a movement of juices in the vine, the kidneys wake up from hibernation. It is very important to "push" the plant to further development, help him gain strength and begin to actively develop. In the southern regions, they start at the end of February-beginning of March, in the Middle Strip - in April. Before sap flow, pruning is performed, this applies to varieties that are not sheltered for the winter.

In more severe regions, in April, they begin to open the vine, removing it from under a layer of sawdust, peat and needles. Be sure to remove dead, weak and old areas. For grapes older than 2 years of age, pruning is performed radically, removing more than half of the buds and sprouts.

You should get several last year's shoots with healthy ovaries. As soon as "overboard" during the week it will be 10 degrees, the vine will begin to "cry", actively secrete juice. It will last from 14 to 21 days. When frozen on the soil, sap flow is stretched over time, growth processes slow down.

The successful completion of the "crying" is evidenced by the pecking of the buds, the development of the first shoots. If there is experience in pruning, during this period, “extra” buds are mercilessly removed so that the vine can feed the rest. In the second half of April, the garter begins: the sleeves are oriented at an angle, the shoots are vertical.

In the same period, young bushes are planted. In May, the vine is thinned again, breaking off double and triple shoots (growing from one kidney) so that only one remains. The procedure is consistently repeated when the sprouts reach a length of 15-20, and then - 35-40 centimeters.

The crown is formed throughout May, removing stepchildren and all shoots coming from the rhizome: this way the most viable, strongest of them will remain, which will give strong, ripe clusters. In addition to these, they carry out activities to feed the vines with mineral complexes. A suitable period for this is the first half of April.

Organics suitable for future plantings young grapes. The spring season is favorable for the prevention of diseases: the bushes are sprayed with chemical solutions.

soil mixing

Grapes do not like heavy clay soils. Therefore, when planting, they practice mixing the soil with humus, sand, compost, depending on the condition of the site. Drainage is necessarily placed at the bottom - stones, rubble, brick breakage. The resulting "pie" from the earth mixture should be air and moisture permeable - so the vine will grow better.

pruning

Includes "selection" of shoots, clusters or individual berries with signs of underdevelopment, diseases, defects. Allows you to increase the chances of those remaining to survive, to accelerate their maturation.

Vine ringing

The ringing method is used to accelerate the ripening of berries, stimulate sap flow. It consists in making a cross-section along the vine in a certain place with a sharp knife so that a narrow strip of bark is obtained. Usually carried out in early spring, before the bush finally wakes up.

pinching stepchildren

To avoid the growth of "extra" branches and rejuvenate the vine, pinching stepchildren is used. The procedure is carried out immediately after their appearance, removing the selected shoots. Good for medium fast grape varieties.

Breaking shoots

This is not about total destruction, but about the removal of unviable, weak shoots. Otherwise, they will draw juices from the vine and interfere with the development of other parts of the plant. For late species is an essential processing step.

Summer treatments

In July, and especially in August, they continue to actively care for the grapes, regulating watering, applying pinching, fertilizing and chemical treatment from pests and diseases.

Timely reduction of watering grapes

The amount of liquid is reduced after the first decade of July: this way you can significantly speed up the ripening of berries and bring the harvest closer. If this is not done, the plant will form ovaries and fruits slowly, slowly, guided by its internal calendar.

pasynkovanie

When the vine has started up fresh sprouts that have grown and developed into stepchildren, they begin to thin out. Remove all shoots that are not involved in the development of the crop. This is done between July and August.

Summer processing

Summer is the time of active reproduction of pests, the appearance of diseases on leaves and berries. Processing includes pickling grapes at the first sign of gray rot, oidium, mildew, and insects. Apply both chemicals and folk remedies: soda, potassium permanganate.

Foliar top dressing to accelerate the ripeness of the gron

Many experienced winegrowers successfully apply root zone feeding, adding fertilizers under the stem. Not everyone knows that spraying at the end of summer (in August) with a weak infusion of wood ash or a solution of potassium monophosphate acts on ripening clusters as a stimulant.

Chasing shoots

In order to stop the growth of greenery and let the juices into the development of berries, chasing shoots is used: for this, the tops are cut off on them (approximately at the level of 15 leaves).

Removing extra grons

In abundantly fruiting grape varieties, as a necessary measure, the removal of “extra” clusters is used - shading, diseased, undeveloped. If this is not done, mother plant will try to feed all the grons, grow every berry, which, unfortunately, is not always possible.

Autumn procedures

Beginning gardeners often ask what to do in the fall besides harvesting. In the last warm days, the vineyard is mulched, freed from heavy clusters, dead branches are removed and prepared for winter. During the same period, for late varieties, use growth stimulants that accelerate the ripening of berries.

Partial removal of berries

The measure is forced, but necessary. Especially for the Middle Strip, where the weather does not indulge in warmth. On individual shoots, the upper clusters are removed so that the most powerful, heavy ones remain. Further, on the gronks, the berries are carefully examined and weak, unformed ones are cut out.

Mulching and insulation

For grapes, it is very important to maintain a constant temperature balance in the root zone. Therefore, it is mulched with peat, humus, foliage, covered with a dense film (can be black), burlap.

What to fertilize to accelerate the ripeness of the gron

For fast, but uniform ripening of berries, there is nothing better than the sun, warm weather and moderate watering. If it is not possible to ensure the presence of all these components in in full use mineral stimulants. They will come in handy to get a crop faster in the harsh climate of Siberia or the Urals.

The use of phosphorus

Phosphorus is very important for the nutrition of the vine, it is one of the main components that ensure its growth. The balance of the mineral in the soil is the key to flowering, normal ripening of berries in the hands. A common mineral complex containing phosphorus is superphosphate. It is used in the fall, watering the bush with an aqueous solution of fertilizer.

Ammonium molybdate

A solution of ammonium molybdate is used for foliar and root top dressing. It stimulates the growth and formation of ovaries, as it carries in itself bound form One of the main, extremely important components for grapes is nitrogen.

How to tell if berries are ripe

The degree of ripeness is also easy to recognize by color: in fully formed fruits, it fully corresponds to the description in the catalog, a reference book of grape varieties.

Do you want to get a rich harvest of grapes and as soon as possible? But don't know what is needed for this? Then this article is for you! We will show you how to speed up the ripening of grapes.

Many gardeners would like to get tasty and juicy bunches of grapes by mid-summer, but do not know how to do it. There are many ways to accelerate the ripening of grapes. We have selected the most simple and effective.

Vine ringing

Experienced gardeners use this method in two cases - if they want to speed up ripening or increase yield. The difference is only in the time of the procedure. To speed up ripening, banding of the bark is carried out before the berries begin to ripen, and to increase the yield, when the berries in the bunch grow the size of a pea.

How to do ringing correctly?

You will need sharp knife and a little dexterity. On the fruit-bearing shoot under the lower bunch, an annular cut is made with a width of not more than 5 mm. This trick helps to stop the current down organic matter that produce leaves. Because of this, the nutrition of the ringed part of the shoot is significantly improved, which accelerates the ripening of grapes.

Removing some of the berries in the bunches

The most effective and proven way to increase the yield. Its principle is simple - you need to remove all underdeveloped berries. The most suitable time for this is the ripening period of the grapes. Remove spoiled berries and those that grow in the middle of the brush. But remember that you can cut no more than 20% of the total mass and not all the berries in a row, but only on those bunches where there are too many of them.
Thinning improves the light exposure of each berry, making them ripen much faster.

Chasing shoots

The chasing of grape shoots is carried out at the moment the berries begin to ripen. The meaning of this method is to remove the tops of the shoots that grow too much and take over nutrients. Therefore, the secateurs are removed upper part branches to the first developed leaf. This helps to accelerate the ripening of berries, increase their sugar content and improve the ripening of wood.

Mulching and insulation

To keep the heat of the day near the grape bushes longer, you need to lay stones around them and concrete tiles, tinted bituminous varnish. Mulch the soil with a black film, it will absorb the sun's rays.
All this will help the berries to pour and ripen faster.

Foliar top dressing of grapes

It is no secret for an experienced grower that phosphorus helps speed up the ripening of berries. Moderate top dressing of the bushes will give its result. Therefore, if there is a need to get a crop earlier than usual (10-12 days before flowering, feed the vine with phosphate fertilizer at the rate of 10 g per 10 liters of water).

The ripening of the grape vine is an important process on which the correct growth of the bush depends. The vine ripens in autumn. When this happens, you need to prune the plant, and during the entire period of ripening, you should carefully care for the grapes.

Methods for accelerating vine maturation

Let's talk about how to speed up the ripening of the vine bush. In order for the vine to ripen well, the following rules must be observed:

• choose the right grape variety for planting;
• control the process of shoot development;
• carry out chasing shoots;
• normalize the harvest;
• properly organize watering;
• apply fertilizer in a timely manner;
• conduct preventive treatments bush from diseases and pests.

The choice of grape variety depends on climatic conditions its cultivation. For better vine maturation in southern and central regions it is recommended to grow early and very early forms.

It is necessary to control the development of the vine throughout the growing season. If there are too actively growing shoots, pinching their tips is carried out. The time to pinch the grapes to ripen the vines depends on the vigor of the bush and the weather.

Chasing is the pruning of the tops of vine shoots, which is usually carried out in August and is needed to improve the maturation of the vine. If it is not done, the shoots will pull nutrients, as a result of which the maturation of the vine will slow down.

It is especially important to correctly determine the time when to make chasing. If the growth points are removed too early, multiple stepchildren will appear, and the buds will become active in the sinuses, as a result of which shoots will begin to grow on the sides. This will slow down maturation. vine and reduce the frost resistance of the bush. Minting too late isn't bad, but it doesn't make sense either.

To determine the minting period, you need to carefully observe the vineyards throughout

summer. With active growth, almost all shoots have a top bent down. Over time, it straightens out, which is the signal for minting. During this period, parts of the shoots are removed, up to the first full-fledged leaf. Subsequent pruning is done after the leaves have fallen.

Another reason why the vine ripens slowly or does not ripen at all is the overload of bushes with a crop. Normalization should be done after the formation of ovaries. On each fruitful shoot, no more than two clusters should be left.

It will also help speed up maturation. proper organization glaze. Optimal for grapes is moderate soil moisture. The frequency of irrigation depends on the weather. As a rule, plants need to be watered once a month, except during the flowering period. At the same time, 2-3 buckets of water are poured under each adult bush. The procedure is carried out in the evening. After each watering, it is recommended to loosen the soil, remove weeds and mulch. Can be used as mulch sawdust, hay or peat.

You need to fertilize the bushes during the entire growing season. In spring, grapes are fed with nitrogen substances. The main thing here is not to overdo it. Fertilize the plants with a small amount of nitrogen (maximum 200 g of the substance per 1 bush). Otherwise, it is possible to activate the growth of green mass, which in the future will slow down the ripening of the vine.

In the summer, the bushes need to be fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. It is applied both under a bush and used for foliar top dressing, which involves spraying the aerial part of the plant with a solution of this fertilizer. With a row planting method, it is allowed to introduce nutrients into the space between the bushes before rain or watering.

In order for the vine to ripen better by the autumn period, you need to feed the grapes immediately after the berries ripen. At this time, complex mineral fertilizers. They are also used to feed a mature bush after the leaves have fallen.

The acceleration of the ripening of grape vines provides for the absence of diseases and the protection of the bush from pests. For this purpose, preventive spraying of plants is carried out. Bushes are processed every month. For this, special preparations are used - fungicides and insecticides.

A mature vine with dense wood and a high-quality core is the key to a full harvest and protection during the cold periods of the year. Vegetation of grapes during summer growth occurs in three stages, which form the plant, preparing it for the wintering period, determining and accumulating the necessary supply of nutrients.

Ripe vine

Reasons that affect the maturation of the vine

The structure of the vine

Grapevine, like any tree, has a rhizome, trunk or trunk and crowns. The cutting, planted in the soil and giving rise to the bush itself, is an underground stem. The root system appears from its lower and lateral parts, and the aerial part appears from the upper eyes. About 3-4 years, sleeves are formed from the eyes, also called boles. This is the base of the plant.

Fruitful shoots include only green shoots developed from the buds of annual specimens. For this reason, for a rich harvest of grapes, pruning is regularly done, which also helps to speed up its ripening. Dormant buds are located on top of the underground trunk, allowing the vine to recover from frostbite or if pruned too hard. These buds awaken only in the listed cases of damage to the shoots.

The vine is fixed on a support with the help of tendrils on reverse side from the leaves, on the run. If a bush is formed on a gazebo, its mustache is thinned out so that the inflorescences receive enough nutrients. In the autumn, inflorescences begin to form. To get a crop, a male or bisexual specimen should be planted next to the female bush.

Grapes are not whimsical to the soil, but for its planting it is necessary to avoid salt marshes and places with high level groundwater. Other soils, even not the most suitable for growing vineyards, can be improved on their own:

The vine develops well in the warm season. Darker varieties are more thermophilic than light specimens. But when the temperature rises to +38 ° C, the growth of shoots slows down.

Sunlight also provides big influence on the maturation of the plant, but under conditions of penumbra, the phases of the growing season are not disturbed.

To give to the bush right amount light and heat from the sun and accelerate the time of its ripening, the cuttings should be planted in the southern part of the garden. In the absence of such an opportunity, the plants are placed in trenches 40-50 cm deep, protecting the roots from frost.

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Phases of the vegetative period of the grape vine

Grapes is perennial plant, the life cycle of which in the wild lasts more than 20 years, and in households - 60-80 years. Every year the vine goes through phases of development during which it needs certain conditions. The annual cycle of plant development consists of a growing season and a dormant period.

The growing season lasts from spring to autumn and includes 6 phases:

The degree and timing of vine ripening

To find out how ripe the vine is, look at the following signs:

The ripening of the vine is influenced by various activities that will help speed up this process.

The vine will bring big harvest next year, if you correctly cut the plant for the fall. Remove all branches, except for the most powerful shoots. Growth adjustment is desirable to carry out before the onset of winter, because at the end of autumn, useful minerals move from branches to wood and plant roots. The winter period has a positive effect on the internal movements in the wood, and slight cold snaps will not harm the grapes.

Important! A well-ripened plant will not suffer from frost, but if the vine has not had time to ripen, then it must be insulated, otherwise a weak bush will not bring a crop.

A strong plant is pruned in November, because at this time a gap is visible between ripe and not yet ready sprouts. If this is done late, the bush will turn completely brown, and it will be more difficult to identify the part to trim.

Caring for planting material in the spring, vine bushes begin to cut and regulate their growth. You also need to monitor the development of buds and shoots, getting rid of unnecessary ones in a timely manner in order to prevent the loss of nutrients and disruption of aging.

Compliance listed rules and advice will speed up and make the ripening of the vine correct. It is enough to control the growth of branches, ensure the proper supply of light and moisture, in order to achieve excellent quality clusters. At the same time, one should not focus on a large number of fruits and shoots, because their excess will weaken the vine, which will spend all its strength on the formation of fruits.

How to help the vine ripen
In order for the grape bush not to suffer in winter and be with a harvest, you need to grow a well-ripened vine with dense wood and a thin core.
Therefore, after planting a seedling on its one-year-old shoot, only one young, strongest green shoot should be left, the rest should be broken at the base. The mentioned green shoot completely takes over all the growth energy of the aerial part of the plant. After removal, one, but a tall shoot with high-quality matured wood is formed. The shoot that is located closer to the base of the one-year growth of the seedling grows more intensively. On elite annual seedlings, after planting, two shoots can be left to develop simultaneously, since their development of the bush occurs most rapidly.
Balanced nutrition for grapes
The grape bush also reacts to soil conditions. The growth and maturation of shoots depend on the composition of nutrients in the soil and their concentration (lack of the norm or excess). For the vast majority of amateur gardeners and viticulturists, especially for beginners, this topic remains mysterious, so it would be very advisable to take soil samples from your site for analysis to an agrochemical laboratory, where you can get expert advice on the use of fertilizers for particular garden. Excessive use of fertilizers during planting and after it greatly inhibits growth and development. grape seedling, and this is reflected in the ripening of the shoots. There were cases when, from an overdose of superphosphate, seedlings had a “zero version” of their development (they grew only up to 40 cm) and died during the winter.
Shelter for ripening vines
The maturation of shoots begins not only with a decrease in the day, but also directly depends on an increase in the amplitude of fluctuations in the temperature of day and night. According to my observations, a good addition to the ripening of the vine on the seedling is to cover it with plastic wrap or non-woven covering material from the beginning of September. First you need to tilt the green, non-ripening shoot closer to the soil and fix it in this position. Then, using greenhouse wire arcs, make a low dome using a film. In northern latitudes, this technique can be used earlier.
As for the ripening of the shoots of adult vine bushes, here you can take note of the last of the above methods. To do this, cover the trellis with a film, fixing it on the bottom wire of the trellis with adhesive tape or tape. Don't forget to secure the edges or ends film shelter the same material. In the case of very hot weather, from the contact of the film with the leaves, the latter can burn and dry out, which is very undesirable for a grape bush. Therefore, in the upper part of the trellis at the level of the upper wire, you need to install transverse struts 50 cm long with additional wire rows (broaches), then you should pull polyethylene film. Due to the increase in the internal under-film space, there will be no contact between the leaves and the film.
Rationing the load of the vine
Overloading grape bushes with crops and vegetative mass reduces the degree of ripening of shoots, it is better to underload bushes than to overload them. But a significant underload of adult bushes causes a violent growth of shoots. They "fatten" and as a result ripen worse. Each variety of a well-ripened vine has its own color: yellow, brown, red-brown and their shades. At the same time, the vine may be colored in appearance, but weakly matured and loose. With a slight bend of a well-ripened vine, its crackling is heard.
All short, thin and underdeveloped shoots on adult vines must be removed in a timely manner, as they take on the nutrients that full-fledged shoots lack for their best ripening.
Grape diseases also affect the ripening of the vine, to avoid this, it is necessary to spray fungicides (drugs against plant diseases) in a timely manner. Option 2 If the vine is not ripe

They planted a seedling of grapes in the spring, and it still stands green, neither the buds nor even the vines have turned brown. The thing is bad. You can lose it. By the way, this can also happen with 2-4 year old bushes, if the plants were not watered in the heat and were not sprayed from diseases, and by autumn the owners came to their senses and tried to correct the situation.

But precious time has already been lost. It is good if the bush is strong, with a powerful root system, which will kick out new shoots in the spring. True, the year of the life of the bush is lost. And the harvest next year is unlikely to wait.

There is information from Siberians, who are constantly faced with the problem of non-ripening of shoots, about the successful overwintering of even green vines. They dig trenches 10-15 cm to cover the grapes, cover them with sugar bags and pin the vines to them directly with the leaves, after shortening them to the desired length.

They put small arcs on which they stretch lutrasil or spunbond, and when it gets cold or frosty, leaves or grass tops are poured on top, and all this is covered with another layer of spunbond.

They say that under such a "featherbed" the vine winters ideally. In the spring, you only have to remove small dead and rotten areas.

Young seedlings (1-2 years old) can be dug up and planted in a pot with soil or wet sand and stored in the basement. In February, they are taken out to the windowsill, where they are kept together with tomato seedlings.

You can do it even easier. Before frost, a 5-liter plastic container is taken from under the water, the neck is cut off, and the bottom without a neck is put on a bush, like an individual greenhouse. From above it is sprinkled with an earthen hill.

Under such mounds, unripe seedlings winter well, there are practically no attacks.

You can improve the ripening of shoots if you properly prepare the bushes in the autumn. For this you need to do:

1. Pre-pruning - immediately after harvest. We cut weak shoots, outdated and diseased sleeves.

2. Autumn loosening of tree trunks to a depth of 25-27 cm with incorporation of organic fertilizers and superphosphate. Per m2 of the trunk strip, 5 kg of humus or compost, 50-60 g of superphosphate, 300 g of ash, 1 g boric acid.

3. Carry out two moisture-charging irrigations - the first after the leaves die from frost. We do it even if it rains. Pour 5-10 buckets of water onto the bush. In the first bucket, you can add 1 g of potassium permanganate. Watering of fruit-bearing bushes is carried out only in drainages.

The second, if the weather is dry before the onset of frost, in such a way that the poured water, without having time to evaporate, freezes.

Method 3 The quality of aging of shoots is significantly affected by the availability of potassium. Therefore, top dressing with mineral chlorine-free potassium (potassium sulfate, potassium magnesia, wood ash) are very relevant. In practice, I spend one subcortex under the root and several weekly foliar top dressings. Potassium sulphate dissolves relatively easily, and potassium magnesia is somewhat worse. So I let her sit for a day. I bring, about 30 g potash fertilizer on an adult bush. The best concentration of the solution should be recognized as 30 g / 10 l. I often use solutions of maximum concentration up to 60 g / 10 l during the period when the ground is moistened with precipitation and poured under the bushes excess water not desirable. For foliar feeding, a concentration of 30 g of salt per 10 liters of solution or a 2-3-day infusion of 1 liter of ash in 10 liters of water is suitable

How to help the vine ripen

In order for the grape bush not to suffer in winter and be with a harvest, you need to grow a well-ripened vine with dense wood and a thin core.

Therefore, after planting a seedling on its one-year-old shoot, only one young, strongest green shoot should be left, the rest should be broken at the base. The mentioned green shoot completely takes over all the growth energy of the aerial part of the plant. After removal, one, but a tall shoot with high-quality matured wood is formed. The shoot that is located closer to the base of the one-year growth of the seedling grows more intensively. On elite annual seedlings, after planting, two shoots can be left to develop simultaneously, since their development of the bush occurs most rapidly.

Balanced nutrition for grapes

The grape bush also reacts to soil conditions. The growth and maturation of shoots depend on the composition of nutrients in the soil and their concentration (lack of the norm or excess). For the vast majority of amateur gardeners and winegrowers, especially for beginners, this topic remains mysterious, so it would be very advisable to take soil samples from your site for analysis to an agrochemical laboratory, where you can get expert advice on the use of fertilizers for a particular garden. Excessive use of fertilizers during planting and after it greatly inhibits the growth and development of the grape seedling, and this is reflected in the ripening of the shoots. There were cases when, from an overdose of superphosphate, seedlings had a “zero version” of their development (they grew only up to 40 cm) and died during the winter.

Shelter for ripening vines

The maturation of shoots begins not only with a decrease in the day, but also directly depends on an increase in the amplitude of fluctuations in the temperature of day and night. According to my observations, a good addition to the ripening of the vine on the seedling is to cover it with plastic wrap or non-woven covering material from the beginning of September. First you need to tilt the green, non-ripening shoot closer to the soil and fix it in this position. Then, using greenhouse wire arcs, make a low dome using a film. AT northern latitudes this technique can be used earlier.

As for the ripening of the shoots of adult vine bushes, here you can take note of the last of the above methods. To do this, cover the trellis with a film, fixing it on the bottom wire of the trellis with adhesive tape or tape. Do not forget to fix the edges or ends of the film cover with the same material. In the case of very hot weather, from the contact of the film with the leaves, the latter can burn and dry out, which is very undesirable for a grape bush. Therefore, in the upper part of the trellis at the level of the upper wire, it is necessary to install transverse struts 50 cm long with additional wire rows (broaches), then stretch the plastic film. Due to the increase in the internal under-film space, there will be no contact between the leaves and the film.

Rationing the load of the vine

Overloading grape bushes with crops and vegetative mass reduces the degree of ripening of shoots, it is better to underload bushes than to overload them. But a significant underload of adult bushes causes a violent growth of shoots. They "fatten" and as a result ripen worse. Each variety of a well-ripened vine has its own color: yellow, brown, red-brown and their shades. At the same time, the vine may be colored in appearance, but weakly matured and loose. With a slight bend of a well-ripened vine, its crackling is heard.

All short, thin and underdeveloped shoots on adult vines must be removed in a timely manner, as they take on the nutrients that full-fledged shoots lack for their best ripening.

Grape diseases also affect the ripening of the vine, to avoid this, it is necessary to spray fungicides (drugs against plant diseases) in a timely manner.

What needs to be done so that our beloved grape culture constantly pleases us with a beautiful appearance and a rich harvest? This question worries many gardeners, especially beginners who face many pitfalls when growing grapes, such as disease or an unripe vine. There are many nuances in the cultivation of grape plants, which I would like to know as much as possible. Grapes, the vine is not ripe, what are the reasons?

Mature vine shoots have quality wood with a dense core inside. During the growing season, the accumulation of nutrients that plants need in winter occurs. An unripe vine is unstable to winter cold, which can negatively affect the entire vineyard, therefore, it is very important that the ripening occurs completely. The main reasons due to which full maturation does not occur may be:

• rainy cool weather or extreme heat, in which the process of photosynthesis is disrupted;
• fungal diseases that occur if plants are not treated with appropriate preparations in time;
• lack of nutrients, which occurs due to the failure to carry out timely feeding of the vineyard, as a result of which the metabolic processes of plants are disturbed, can also be the cause of non-ripening.

All these factors inhibit the normal growth and vital activity of plants, and do not allow the protective functions that preserve the grapes in winter frosts to be fully formed.

Elimination of causes

Providing plants with high-grade soil, with all the microelements necessary for growth and development, is an important component for good vine maturation. To do this, before starting the cultivation of a grape crop, it is necessary to examine the soil of the site where they plan to plant a vineyard, and, if necessary, enrich it with all the substances necessary for plants, avoiding oversaturation, which can also adversely affect the future development of the vine.

You should be responsible for the formation of vine bushes during planting, removing all unnecessary parts of plants that will take the nutrients needed for the maturation of the main shoots. You can leave no more than two well-developed shoots, cutting off all other small shoots at the base.

When the air temperature reaches +7 degrees, the growth of grapes begins to slow down. After the leaves have already fallen, it makes no sense to stimulate the growth and maturation of the vine, therefore, you need to take care of reliable protection plants in winter, and if part of the plant was still damaged by frost, such shoots must be completely removed, however, the possibility of slowing down plant growth still remains.

Heavy harvests can also slow down vine maturation, so it's a good idea to control the number of bunches by removing extra ones, and pinch grapes, removing weak shoots to allow the remaining ones to ripen.

Feed the grapes in rainy and cold weather with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which will ensure the ripening of the vine. To do this, 100 grams of superphosphate is diluted in 10 liters of water. You can feed the grapes with a solution of wood ash.

Timely processing grape plants drugs for fungal diseases, it is also possible to eliminate the problem of not ripening the vine, if the cause was precisely fungal diseases.

Carrying out two water-charging irrigations in autumn period will be able to ensure the maturation of the vine in the summer. The first time they are watered when the first frosts occurred, from which all the leaves died. Moisture is brought in regardless of whether it rains or not. For each plant, it is necessary to pour 5-10 buckets of water. In the first bucket, add 1 g of potassium permanganate. The second watering is carried out in dry weather before frost hits, so that the moisture does not have time to evaporate and freeze.

Autumn loosening of the soil with feeding organic fertilizers and superphosphate will also help in solving the problem. To do this, the following mixture is made - 5 kg of compost or humus is mixed with 300 grams of ash and 60 grams of superphosphate, then 1 gram of boric acid is added and all this is added to a depth of 25 cm when loosening, into special grooves.

Use of cover

In cold regions, in order to ensure the maturation of the vineyard, plant shelters are used with the help of arcs, on which a film or covering material is stretched. It is best to do this in mid-August, when daylight hours have already decreased significantly. In this way, there is a chance to save the entire vineyard.

To preserve grapes during winter cold, the unripe vine must be dug to a depth of about 20 cm, before that, reducing the length, and wrapping it with covering material or burlap along with the leaves. For this, you can also use arcs, on which the material with which the grapes are covered is placed on top, then sprinkled with soil mixed with 1: 1 compost. Young plants can be dug up and, having packed the roots so that they do not die, they can be placed for winter storage in a basement or cellar. Inventive winegrowers came up with the following method - they cover a young bush with trimmed five-liter plastic bottles, having previously made holes in them so that the plants can breathe normally, and are covered with soil from above.

To take care of the good maturation of the vine, you need to start in the spring, from the time the buds open and the first shoots appear. The main conditions for the high-quality maturation of vines are: proper normalization and optimal load with green shoots and grape bushes, balanced root and foliar top dressing, timely protection against fungal diseases. If all these conditions are met, then usually the vine ripens well before the onset of frost. After normalizing the load of grape bushes with shoots and clusters, it is necessary to regularly remove stepchildren, partially remove leaves in order to improve the illumination of the shoots and the ventilation of the bushes. A fairly common mistake of growers is to overload the bushes with a crop. When overloaded, a significant part of the nutrients goes to the formation of clusters, growth, ripening of berries, and the vine remains on a starvation diet. Most often, the result of such an attitude towards the plant will be an unripe crop and an unripe vine.

Timely chasing of shoots has a positive effect on the quality of vine maturation, especially if the vines are placed on vertical trellises. After its implementation, the nutrients in in large numbers will begin to enter the ripening berries, the illumination of the shoots will improve, and the ripening of the crop will accelerate. Coinage has a particularly noticeable effect on vigorous grape varieties of medium and late deadline ripening, the shoots of which usually ripen later. With the onset of prolonged cool weather with rains, it is sometimes not bad, sacrificing part of the unripe grapes, remove it from the bush and let the remaining clusters and shoots ripen

Highly great importance for timely ripening of the vine has protecting the vineyard from fungal diseases. In the first half of summer, the development of mildew usually causes the greatest damage to grapes, the affected green organs of the plant dry up. In the second half of summer, oidium, black spot and rot, especially gray rot, pose the greatest threat to growing shoots. Shoots affected by fungal diseases ripen poorly or do not ripen at all. Therefore, for normal growth and maturation of shoots, it is necessary to carry out regular treatments of the vineyard with fungicides. It should be borne in mind that preventive treatments of the vineyard are much more effective than treatment bushes affected by fungal diseases. Affected shoots after treatment of fungal diseases on next year will be less fruitful, and it is impossible to grow high-quality seedlings from cuttings harvested from it.

A very large influence on the maturation of the vine is weather: bad for the vine if it's too damp, bad and if it's too hot and dry. At high humidity, especially in rainy years with quite low temperatures air is drawn in vegetation and are created very favorable conditions for the development of fungal diseases.

Under such conditions, the vine ripens only partially; for better ripening, it needs special stimulation. First of all, it is necessary to remove the stepsons and thin out the leaves in order to improve the ventilation of the vines. Mulching or loosening the soil regularly will also help reduce soil moisture in the vineyard. If installed very dry and hot weather, the processes of formation and accumulation of organic substances in the vine are disturbed, and this does not contribute to the maturation of the vine. You can check the level of starch accumulation in the vine at home. To do this, you need to drop a drop of iodine solution on a fresh cut of the vine. A section of a well-ripened vine becomes stained under the action of iodine. If the color is dark blue to black, then the vine has a normal supply of starch, if it remains yellow or yellow-green, then such a vine does not yet have enough carbohydrates, and it has not yet matured.

In conditions of dry and hot weather, mandatory watering of the vineyards is necessary, additional chasing of grape bushes can be carried out, stepchildren and part of the leaves can be removed in order to reduce the evaporation of moisture by the plant. It is desirable to supplement irrigation with soil mulching, if this is not possible, then its constant loosening is necessary to reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil surface.

A very large influence on the maturation of the vine is mineral supplements plants. Entering into large quantities nitrogen fertilizers, and in any form: either mineral, or in the form of humus, slurry, etc., leads to a violent growth of shoots, which sometimes continues until autumn itself. The plant works for growth, but the processes of ripening of bunches and vines are delayed. With a strong "overfeeding" with nitrogen, they not only lose their crops, but also often destroy bushes whose vines do not ripen. Therefore, fertilizing plants with nitrogen fertilizers must be carried out carefully, not to get involved in them for the benefit of strong growth, but also the ripening of shoots. After flowering, the use of nitrogen fertilizers in the vineyard should be minimized and from mid-July, only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be used for top dressing. Good result to accelerate the ripening of vines gives the application complex fertilizers containing trace elements (plantofol, solute. vuksal, etc.) not containing nitrogen in the second half of summer. If, subject to all agricultural practices, the maturation of the vine is still delayed and there is a threat of its death, it is necessary to apply preventive "therapy" to accelerate maturation. To improve the maturation of the vine, phosphorus-potassium or potassium foliar top dressing is used on the upper tier of leaves. The best drugs for these purposes are potassium monophosphate and potassium sulfate. Apply two schemes for the treatment of the vineyard with these drugs. The first option is to treat the vineyard every 7-10 days with solutions of these preparations (30-40 g per 10 liters of water). The second option is treatment by them with increasing concentration in solution: the first treatment from mid-August is 20 g of the drug per 10 l of water, the second after 10 days is 40 g of drugs per 10 l of water, the third is 60 g per 10 l of water, and so on , on the rise, with an interval of 7-10 days. At the final stage, even the treatment of grape bushes for green mass with a solution containing, for example, more than 100 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water did not cause chemical burns of leaves and shoots.

Helps speed up the ripening of vines heat reflective screens grape bushes (from a foil-coated film), arranging a film shelter over them or installing small greenhouses on arcs. This operation is especially relevant for stimulating the ripening of young or grafted bushes, especially when it comes to new varieties or hybrid forms of grapes.