Insulate the house outside with isover. Proper insulation of a wooden house from the outside. Insulation of a wooden house with mineral wool

Properly executed insulation of a wooden house can significantly save on heating, improve the microclimate in the house, and also extend the life of the log house. When the question arises about the thermal insulation of the walls of a wooden house, the first and most important point is the choice of the method of insulation - from the inside or outside. Most home owners choose external insulation, and this choice is absolutely right - the external insulation of a wooden house is more effective.

With internal insulation, not only decreases effective area rooms, but the dew point shifts inside the log house. Only insulated inner space, the log house itself is constantly experiencing changes in humidity and temperature, it freezes in winter, and rots in summer. The greatest destruction of the log house in this case occurs with inside covered with insulation.

External insulation protects not only the room from freezing, but also the log house itself. The dew point shifts to outside, and condensation occurs outside wooden structures, under a ventilated facade, where moisture dries quickly.

Materials for warming a wooden house

As a heater for wooden houses mats made of stone or mineral wool are most in demand. It is not recommended to use foam plastic for warming wooden structures, since it does not have vapor permeability and does not remove moisture vapor from the surface of the log house. Mats made of stone or mineral wool are different thickness and density. The denser the insulation, the easier it is to install and the longer it retains its performance characteristics. Soft and loose mats often slide down, disintegrate, forming dust that is harmful to health. Therefore, you should not save on high-quality insulation. Other advantages of stone or mineral wool include its incombustibility and unpopularity with rodents, unlike polystyrene.

In addition to insulation, two layers of film are needed: one is waterproofing and protects the log house from moisture penetration. It is placed on a protected wooden surface. This film must have vapor permeability and remove moisture from the log house through the insulation to the external environment. The second is wind and water protection, it is mounted on top of thermal insulation. The purpose of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture coming from external environment. Waterproofing of mineral insulation is required, since when wetted, it loses its thermal insulation properties.

From the outside, the insulation is closed with any facing material with the obligatory arrangement of the ventilation gap. Such a cladding is called a ventilated facade. Due to the air circulation between the cladding and the walls, the formation of fungus and mold is excluded, moisture is successfully removed from the insulation and all conditions are created for the long service life of the log house and the entire building.

The technology of warming a wooden house from the outside

The walls of a log or squared house are treated with an antiseptic in two layers, paying special attention to the lower crown and corners. The ends of the logs are impregnated with an antiseptic especially carefully, since they are most susceptible to decay. Processing is best done in warm, dry weather. After treatment, the walls are dried for 1-2 days.
The walls are fixed with staples and a waterproofing film with a vapor-permeable coating. This film has different coverage sides: glossy should be facing the insulation, and porous, capable of absorbing and removing moisture from the log house - to the wall. The joints of the film are overlapped and glued with special mounting tape. A vertical crate made of a bar is attached to the film, the thickness of the bar should correspond to the thickness of the insulation. The step of the crate is chosen 3-5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Laid by surprise, they will hold perfectly without additional fastening.
Heat-insulating mats are laid on the film between the bars, slightly pressing them. If necessary, mats are cut with an ordinary knife. If the mats are not hard enough and do not hold well inside the frame, you can perform a temporary filing by fixing them with slats. The mats are finally fixed with anchor nails. If it is necessary to lay several layers of thermal insulation, the next layer of mats is laid with offset seams so that the upper mats overlap the joints of the lower ones. All work on laying mineral wool mats must be carried out with protective gloves and a respirator.
On top of the insulation, a hydro-wind-protective membrane film is attached to the staples. The waterproofing surface must face the outside. The joints are overlapped and glued with adhesive tape.
Installing a hydro-windproof membrane film over the insulation using a stapler
A ventilated frame is required on top of the film. It is also made of bars, providing a distance of at least 5 cm between the layer of insulation covered with wind protection and the decorative facade. The bars are attached to the lower frame with self-tapping screws, and if the walls are not even enough, then perforated hangers for the profile are used, allowing you to adjust the distance to the frame. Under sheathing with metal siding or corrugated board, you can use a drywall profile instead of a bar.
The casing is fixed according to the technology recommended by the manufacturer. For cladding, you can use vinyl siding, metal profiles, block house or imitation timber. When cladding, make sure that there are no gaps through which moisture can penetrate into the facade.

An additional measure to protect a wooden house is the insulation of the foundation and basement. It can be produced using or, as well as by spraying polyurethane foam. A ventilated facade or decorative stone or brick cladding is also mounted on top of the insulation layer.

Follow the technology insulation of a wooden house from the outside, perform the work carefully and in the indicated sequence:

the first layer is a film for vapor barrier of walls;
installation of a frame crate;
direct installation of the selected insulation;
fastening to the frame of the waterproofing layer;
installation of facade cladding.

The choice of insulation

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house? Get to know the popular materials for protecting a wooden structure.

Mineral wool

Many owners choose mineral wool. Quite reasonable. This lightweight material:

retains heat well;
not subject to combustion;
it is soft and elastic;
it is easy to work with him;
withstands temperature changes;
cold bridges are absent.

External wall insulation mineral wool often used by owners of new and old log houses. First, equip the frame and fill it with rolls of mineral wool. The material fills the voids well.

The supporting structures of the frame tightly hold the mineral wool. Additional mount not required. They produce material in rolls, plates or mats.

New boards are laid on top and sheathed with plastic siding. The building will acquire modern look.

Ecowool

This insulation came to us from Finland. In harsh conditions, the material, consisting of cellulose and antiseptics, successfully passed the test severe frosts and freezing winds.

Advantages:

eco friendly, natural material;
prevents the appearance of mold;
mice do not gnaw ecowool;
excellent noise and heat insulation;
used for external and internal insulation;
the walls "breathe" well;
when smoldering does not emit toxic substances.

Installation of ecowool does not require the arrangement of a vapor barrier layer. Methods for applying the cellulose mixture: wet-glue, bulk, by blowing using a special machine.

A high-quality, monolithic layer 10 cm thick will create reliable protection against the cold. Suitable for use in various climatic zones.

Styrofoam

This material insulates the house from the inside. Outside, insulate a house from a bar with polystyrene foam Not recommended. Cause? The material does not breathe well. The result - the appearance of condensate, wood decay, the development of mold fungi.

Cold bridges inevitably form between the base and polystyrene foam in places of loose fit. Some of the heat will be wasted.

For internal thermal insulation with the help of foam, it first fills the rack frame to provide an air gap. Plates up to 5 cm thick are fixed with adhesive mortars or special fasteners.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside

Have you already decided on the type of insulation? Mineral wool or ecowool - you decide. It remains to consider stages of insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house.

In the photo you see one of the insulation options, the order of work.

vapor barrier

The purpose of this layer is ensure adequate ventilation of the facade under the foil. If the facade is made of round logs, you can fix the material directly on the tree. The gaps will be sufficient.

On the smooth surface First you need to fill the wooden slats. Thickness - 2.5 cm. Keep the distance between them - within a meter.

You will need aluminum foil, roofing felt, a special vapor barrier film. Attach the vapor barrier layer to the rails. Cut a hole in the top and bottom for ventilation. Diameter - 2 cm.

Important: where nails or staples are driven in, glue the surface with adhesive tape to seal.

Arrangement of a wooden frame

You will need a regular board. Width - no more than 10 cm, thickness - no more than 5 cm. Thinner ones are not suitable for this design.

Nail the boards vertically. Make sure that the distance between them is 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation. So you prevent the appearance of cracks and voids.

thermal insulation

If you chose ecowool, use a blower to apply the cellulose mixture to the wall. Remember- No vapor barrier needed!

Lay the mineral wool slabs in the prepared frame, achieving a snug fit. Choose semi-rigid boards with a density of 120kg/m3. Additional fastening is not required.

waterproofing layer

To you special film required with vapor permeability over 1300g/sq.m. its task is to let steam through, but prevent it from getting on the insulation layer. Installation is carried out in the same way as when installing a vapor barrier layer.

It remains to fill the frame with boards to dry the condensate that has fallen on the waterproofing layer. Suitable boards with a thickness of 2.3 to 3 cm and a width of 5 cm.

To protect against insects and rodents, install from below metal mesh with small cells. Pay special attention to the arrangement of the protective layer when insulating a log house with mineral wool.

outer skin

What will your house look like after insulation? You can stuff a wooden lining or eurolining made of larch, oak or pine. Treat the boards, open them with varnish.

Think about the design of doors and windows. Insulation will increase the thickness of the walls up to 25cm. You can move them to another place and equip new ones. wooden frames, platbands, window sills.

The second option is to give the house a stylish, modern look. You will need a block how, vinyl or metal siding. Work is carried out from the bottom up. Attach the cladding with screws or nails.

To your attention is a video about the insulation of a wooden house from the outside. What is the best way to insulate?

Prices for insulation

Warming of private houses and cottages can be done independently. This option only costs material.

Many owners turn to construction companies. In the absence of skills, time and desire to carry out the insulation of your home, allocate some money to pay for the work of professionals. These are the average rates.

A full range of works on the arrangement of thermal insulation: from 1080 to 4000 rubles. per sq.m. The total cost depends on the chosen insulation and the method of installation of the protective layer.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside - a process that requires a balanced approach to all stages of work. Purchase quality materials, listen to the advice of experts, follow the technology - and your house from a bar will be warm. New decorative facade will create a mood.

In the building materials market, one of the leading places belongs to the well-known French brand Izover, under the brand name of which a whole series of insulation materials is produced for thermal insulation of the house. The product has excellent performance characteristics, which were appreciated by consumers who used it to insulate their home. The material is excellent for internal and external thermal insulation of wooden buildings. Izover house insulation is a great way to eliminate heat loss, prevent cold masses from entering the room, and increase living comfort. In the article we will consider the types and characteristics of a heat insulator, as well as dwell on the methods of insulation.

The manufacturer produces several lines of products, among which there are universal heaters that are suitable for thermal insulation of the entire structure. There are also highly specialized materials designed to insulate one or another part of the house: internal and external walls, roofs, floors, baths.

Universal heaters

This group is subdivided into:

"Optimal". The material is made of basalt fiber. It is designed for thermal insulation of all parts frame house except for the foundation. They can insulate the roof, partitions, walls, floors along the logs. It has low thermal conductivity, is not combustible, it can be laid without additional fasteners.
"Pro". The insulation is fiberglass mats. It can be used for thermal insulation both inside and outside the log house and frame structures. It has a very low thermal conductivity. Safe and non-flammable insulation.
"Classic". It is also based on fiberglass. It is produced in mats and slabs with a porous structure, due to which it has good heat-insulating characteristics. Applies to various structural elements houses made of logs and timber, except for surfaces with a high load, including the foundation. It has low strength, so it can not be used under the screed and plaster.
"Extra". Fiberglass plate insulation, characterized by increased strength and elasticity, resistance to compression. It has the lowest thermal conductivity compared to other materials of the manufacturer, due to which, when using it, heat losses are minimal.
"Warm house". This insulation is made from recycled fiberglass. It is suitable for thermal insulation of any parts of the structure. The material goes on sale in the form of slabs, which are convenient to use for vertical surfaces, and roll mats used to insulate the floor between the logs and interfloor ceilings.

Heaters for highly specialized works

Among the materials produced under the Isover brand, it is worth dwelling separately on highly specialized mineral wool heaters, which are divided into various groups according to individual areas of application:

Facade heaters. This group of materials is intended for wet insulation of the facade under plaster. The name of each insulation necessarily contains the word "facade". They are sold in slabs and are made from basalt or fiberglass.
Heaters for outdoor and internal walls wooden house. This group includes materials that can be used for thermal insulation hinged structures: for lining, siding, blockhouse and others. All of them are made of glass fiber in the form of plates, less often in the form of mats.
Roof heat insulators. Materials for this purpose are additional processing providing increased moisture resistance. They are made of basalt and glass fibers in the form of plates and mats.
Materials for floor insulation. The products of this group are increased strength and stiffness, they hold up well increased loads. They are used for laying floors and floating floor structures.
Heater for a bath and a sauna. Main distinguishing characteristic from other groups - a two-layer composition, one layer - mineral wool, the second - a foil coating. The material simultaneously performs two functions - insulation and vapor barrier.

Pros and cons of the material

Despite the fact that each product has its own specifics, it is possible to single out both positive and negative sides of all Izover brand heaters.

Advantages:

low thermal conductivity;
good sound absorption;
high degree of vapor permeability;
water resistance;
incombustibility;
light weight plates.

However, the material also has some disadvantages:

Formaldehyde resins are used to connect the components, which calls into question the environmental friendliness of the insulation.
During installation, small particles of material can enter the respiratory tract, so the use of protective equipment is mandatory.
In direct contact with water, the insulation absorbs moisture, which requires good waterproofing, especially when laying the material on the facade and roof of a log house.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the log house by Izover

Mounted on walls wooden frame from bars, the distance between the uprights should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulation.
Insulating material is laid between the racks. It should lie very tightly, usually no additional fixation is required.
On top of the thermal insulation spreads horizontally vapor barrier membrane. The sheets are overlapped, and their joints are sealed with adhesive tape.
A counter-lattice is mounted on the racks to create air gap, and sheets of drywall, lining or other finishing material are fixed on it.

According to this instruction, the walls are insulated both outside and inside a wooden house.

How to insulate the roof with your own hands

Installed wooden racks at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
A windproof membrane is spread on the frame, it is necessary that it completely covers the inside of the roof and wooden elements crates.
The width of the insulation roll is 1220 mm, cutting it in half, two strips of 610 mm are obtained.
The cut parts are installed between the bars, due to the size, they will fit snugly against the racks.
The entire insulation structure is covered with a vapor barrier film.
To create a ventilation gap, a counter-lattice is installed, which is then lined with a decorative coating.

How to insulate the floor along the logs board material, described in detail in the article. Work with Izover is carried out in a similar way. Here we describe the main points of warming with a wet method.

The concrete base is covered with a waterproof film.
A special damper tape is installed around the entire perimeter of the room, it should capture part of the floor and the wall, while its height should be 15 cm higher than the level of the screed.
Install insulation boards.
On top of the thermal insulation to protect the material from moisture penetration, another layer of waterproofing is laid, the sheets should overlap each other by about 20-25 cm.
The cement screed is poured, after it has completely dried, the excess tape is cut off and the finishing floor covering is laid.

How is the thermal protection of the bath Izover

Work is carried out in the following sequence:

The first stage of work is the installation of a frame crate, as indicated above.
Between uprights suddenly lay the heater. The foil side should face outward to provide a reflective effect.
Between themselves, the plates of the heat insulator are glued with adhesive foil tape.
On top of the insulation, perpendicular to the uprights of the main frame, additional slats 2.5-3 cm thick are mounted. They will press the insulation more tightly against the wall, and also create a gap between the insulation and the decorative cladding.
The final stage is the lining of the walls with clapboard, which is attached to the counter-rails.

Instead of a conclusion

Despite the fact that Izover is an easy-to-use material, insulating a house with them is not as easy as it seems. In the thermal insulation of log and log house There are many nuances known only to specialists. After all, wood is a living material, and it is quite difficult to work with it, so you should not rely on your own strength in this work.

The company "Master Srubov" offers its services for the thermal insulation of wooden houses to residents of Moscow and the region. We will choose best option insulation, we will make an accurate calculation of materials and perform all the work with high quality. We have already insulated hundreds of homes and received appreciative feedback from our customers. We will carry out the work at a high professional level and meet the deadlines.

On the page you will find all the ways to contact us.

Calculate the cost of painting and insulating your home right now

Wooden houses are traditional for Russian cities and sat down - they reliably serve their owners for a lot decades and even often cross the century boundary. But sooner or later the time comes when the insulation of a wooden house outside becomes necessary action, because, being under the influence of wind, moisture and ultraviolet rays, the details of the walls dry out and become covered with cracks, through which cold enters the rooms without much difficulty. To reduce heating costs, you need to invest in wall insulation, and it will pay off in the first winter.

Having spent the exterior, the homeowner will solve three problems at once - make the house warm, reduce the penetration of street noise into the rooms and update the exterior design of the building.

But, before you buy the material and get to work, you need to find out which of the modern heaters better fit for wooden building, and in what sequence it is necessary to carry out its installation.

At the moment, the most popular materials for insulation wooden buildings outside is expanded polystyrene in panels and mineral wool of various types, made in the form of mats or rolls. But apart from them, last years sprayed insulation compounds are increasingly being used, such as penoizol or ecowool, as well as thermal panels, which include not only an insulation layer, but also a decorative finish.

Expanded polystyrene is the most affordable material for insulation. It has good performance characteristics, makes it possible to significantly save on heating.

Expanded polystyrene is produced in panels of various thicknesses, 1 × 1 and 1 × 0.5 m in size, with a density of 15 to 40 kg / m³. For insulating outdoor work, medium-sized material is usually used. density - order 25kg /m³ and thickness from 50mm. It must be remembered that the higher the density of the insulation, the lower its thermal insulation qualities, but the higher the resistance to stress. Therefore, high-density expanded polystyrene is used mainly for floor insulation.

Expanded polystyrene is light, as it consists of a foamed mass filled with air, therefore it becomes a good barrier to both cold and sound waves. Expanded polystyrene has a low thermal conductivity and therefore guarantees the long-term preservation of the heat accumulated in the room.

It is easy to cut and fix on the wall. It is resistant to temperature extremes and ultraviolet, and almost does not absorb moisture, so it has a fairly long service life.

But, in addition to numerous advantages, polystyrene foam has its own significant disadvantages:

low mechanical strength- the material breaks and crumbles quite easily, therefore, after fixing to the wall, it will require protection with mesh reinforcement and a decorative coating;
ordinary expanded polystyrene cannot be called non-combustible, and when exposed to high temperatures, it turns into a fluid burning mass and releases substances dangerous to the human body. Only extruded polystyrene foam is considered non-combustible, or rather, self-extinguishing, and it is recommended to use it for warming wooden buildings.
if you plan to fix the boards with glue, then you need to find out in advance whether it is suitable for use with polystyrene foam, as some substances destroy this material.

Installation of polystyrene foam insulation

The panels are attached to the surface in two ways - on the crate or directly on the plane of the walls using glue and fasteners - "umbrellas" ("fungi"). The choice of technique depends on the surface on which it will be mounted.

If the house is built of timber and its walls have flat surfaces, you can use both options, but it's easier to get by with glue.

Before installing the insulation, the surface must be inspected for cracks and cracks. If there are any, then they need to be repaired. The process can be carried out different ways- this is plugging cracks with tow treated with lime or sealing modern materials such as sealant or construction foam.
After that, the wooden surface must be treated - it will protect it from harmful insects and the formation of moss or mold spots.
When the antiseptic dries, you can proceed with the installation of insulation. To make it stick well to the wall, you can lightly walk on its surface with an iron brush.
Installation of insulation begins at the bottom corner of the wall. For ease of fastening and evenness of the first row of panels, it is recommended to install a special profile in this place. It should have a width corresponding to the thickness of the material.

The slabs are smeared with a solution of special building glue, pointwise and along the edge, and then applied and pressed against the wall. They should be pressed tightly against each other, creating a single surface. If gaps have formed between the panels, then after the glue has dried and fixed to the wall, they must be sealed with mounting foam.

After removing the first row, subsequent rows are attached according to the system brickwork, in a dressing.

After waiting 3-4 days after mounting the plates to the wall, they must be fixed with the help of “fungi” fasteners. Each plate must be fixed with 5-6 similar elements. Fasteners should have a leg length of several centimeters more thickness insulation, for example, if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the “fungus” must be chosen with a leg of 100 mm. When clogging, the cap should enter the styrofoam plate flush with its surface.

Fixing the mount - "fungus"

When all the insulation is installed, you can begin to reinforce the expanded polystyrene - this is done using a fiberglass sickle mesh.

At all corners of the building, you need to install special corners with a grid fixed to them, they are fixed with glue.

Corner reinforcing mesh - serpyanka

A wide mesh is fixed to the rest of the surface, which is sold in rolls. It is laid with an overlap of 70-100 mm also on the adhesive mass. Serpyanka should, as it were, drown in glue. Having fixed it on the surface of expanded polystyrene, they pass it with a spatula from the center to the edges - according to the herringbone system, removing excess glue.
When the glue on the reinforcing layer dries, the wall must be covered with a primer mixture - decorative plaster will fit well on it.

In this case, you can only make decorative plaster finishing - siding or there will simply be nothing to fix the lining. But on plastered walls, you can fix a light finishing material, for example, plastic tiles under brick or stone.

find out detailed information with instructions, how, from our new article.

Since installation work according to the second option (on the crate) is carried out in the same way as with mineral wool insulation, they will be discussed below.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is not a new insulation material, it has been tested by time, as it has been used for decades, and during this period it has not lost its popularity at all.

One of the best heaters- mineral wool

Mineral wool consists of numerous fibers fastened together special formulations. Three different types mineral wool, and they differ in base material manufacturing is stone wool, glass wool and slag wool.

Of course, they also have other differences - this is moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, resistance to some external influence, as well as the thickness and length of the fibers.

slag wool

This material is made from blast-furnace slag, which, after processing, is drawn into fibers with a length of 10 to 20 mm and a thickness of up to 10 microns.

When choosing a heater for the facade, this option should be immediately abandoned, since it is hydroscopic. Moisture on it can lead to mold inside the material. In addition, if it is located next to metal profile, then an oxidative reaction can occur, since slags have residual acidity in their composition.

Slag wool has a sufficiently high thermal conductivity for insulation, and according to this characteristic, it is also not quite suitable for insulating the walls of private housing.

glass wool

Glass wool is made by melting glass mass, the length of the fibers of the material is from 15 to 45 mm, and the thickness is not more than 12-15 microns. This insulation is well suited for protecting walls from the cold outside - glass wool is heat-resistant and non-hygroscopic. In addition, it has a small weight and good elasticity. Glass wool is produced in mats or rolls, and due to its elasticity, the packaging does not have excessive large volumes because the material is easily compressed.

Glass wool made in mats is denser and more durable. It not only insulates the walls well, but also perfectly protects from the wind, and, in addition, it is much easier to install it between the bars of the crate.

The disadvantage is that during its installation it is necessary to carefully protect the eyes, face and hands, respiratory organs, since thin glass fibers, if they get on the tissues, can injure them or cause severe irritation. Therefore, when working with this material, it is necessary to wear a respirator, goggles, gloves and a protective suit.

stone wool

Basalt rocks serve as raw materials for the manufacture of stone wool. It, like other types of insulation, consists of fibers, has low thermal conductivity and high hydrophobicity, as well as the ability to withstand high temperatures, so it can be called a heat-resistant material. This type of cotton wool is not so elastic, so its shape and volume are quite stable. Thanks to all your positive characteristics, it is excellent for insulating facades.

Basalt (stone) wool - the material is practically without flaws

Basalt wool is available in the form of rolls or slabs, it can be denser or softer, but for walls it is necessary to choose the most dense material.

This insulation is not dusty and does not irritate the skin, and you can work with it even without protective devices.

All of the above types of mineral wool have a hardness classification. This indicator needs to be clarified, since not all brands are suitable for facade insulation. For such work, you need to choose the material of the brand PZH-175 - this is a rigid plate, or PZH-200, which means increased rigidity of the plate.

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

Installation of a mineral wool insulation layer is carried out with a crate installed on the wall - this method can also be used for insulation with polystyrene foam. It is suitable for both flat and log surfaces.
In this case, a crate made of timber or galvanized metal profiles is installed on the walls, between which a slab or roll insulation is fixed.

In order to achieve best effect insulation and keep the walls safe from moisture, it is advised to pre-fix the vapor barrier material under the crate.
It must be remembered that the lathing bars are installed at a distance from each other, which should be 5 cm less than the width of the insulation. This is required so that it fits snugly between two adjacent guides. If the material will be mounted in two layers, then it is necessary to provide for the thickness of the installed bars - it must correspond to two layers of insulation.

There are several ways how to fix the crate, and which one to choose - the owner of the house decides, depending on the quality of the insulation and the evenness of the wall.
After installing the lathing bars, between them, starting from the bottom row, insulation mats are laid. In order for them not to slip, you can connect all the bars from below with a supporting rail.

In the event that it is used roll material, laying starts from above, fixing the upper edge to the "fungi". The remaining fixing elements will be installed later.
Then, the laid insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. She often completely covers the entire wall, fixing it on the bars with brackets. Sometimes it is laid only on a heater, but the first option is preferable.

Further, all the insulation material, together with the vapor barrier, is fixed with “fungi” to the wall.
Fastened over the crate decorative trim- it can be siding or lining. The rules for the installation of such a finish are considered separately, in other publications.

Mounted on top of the frame decorative coating- siding, block house or other materials

If the crate is installed vertically, then the sheathing will be horizontal and vice versa. This point must be taken into account when installing bars or profiles. It happens otherwise - with two layers of insulation. First, the first crate is made horizontally, then, after laying the first layer of insulation, the second crate is mounted along the bars, perpendicular to the first. After laying the second layer of mineral wool - everything is the same as described above.

Video: an example of wall insulation with mineral wool

Sprayed heaters

In addition to materials in the form of mats and rolls, recently they began to use liquid heaters that are sprayed onto the walls. These include such as ecowool and polyurethane. When choosing such a heater, you should pay attention to their characteristics - they can become great alternative mineral wool or rigid polystyrene foam.

polyurethane foam

Wooden house covered with polyurethane foam long years can be considered protected from the negative processes of mold, exposure to dampness, wind, low and high temperatures.

Modern method of thermal insulation - polyurethane foam spraying

However, this spraying method is rarely used, as it requires special equipment and good skills, and inviting a professional with special equipment is quite expensive. Nevertheless, it must be taken into account that the service life of this material reaches fifty years, while other heaters become unusable after a shorter period. Therefore, having once spent on insulation, you can forget about repairing the facade for many years.

After covering the walls with polyurethane foam, they acquire properties such as hydrophobicity, low thermal conductivity, and resistance to almost any external influence.

The advantages of this technology also include the following qualities:

- excellent adhesion during application;

— absence of fasteners;

— the material penetrates into all the small holes and crevices of the wall, preventing cold air from penetrating inside the building;

— compatibility with any materials;

- formation on the surface seamless coating, which is very important for the heat-saving effect;

- the coating does not require repair and renewal for many years;

- mold does not appear on it and rodents do not damage it.

Application of polyurethane foam

Any surface for mounting sprayed materials must be prepared. In particular, bars of such a size are nailed onto its surface, with what thickness it is planned to arrange a spray layer - this will become a kind of beacon. Protruding frozen sections of the foam will be cut off along these guidelines.

When applying insulation, the device operates under high pressure- more than 100 atmospheres. The master with the help of a pneumatic gun sprays the material on the surface of the wall. Once on the surface, the polyurethane foams in 2-3 seconds. Setting and the beginning of hardening of polyurethane foam occurs almost immediately.

To achieve the desired effects of heat and sound insulation, the coating should be sprayed in three layers.

Sprayed polyurethane is divided into materials for internal and external use. For application outside, we use "Ecothermix 300", "HEATLOK SOY"

For example, the video shows the application of polyurethane on wooden walls from the inside of the house. The process of spraying from the outside is practically no different.

Video: spraying polyurethane foam thermal insulation

Ecowool

Ecowool is a warming and soundproofing material also applied by spraying. The raw material for its manufacture is recycled cellulose with the addition of borax and boric acid which are non-toxic and non-volatile. The insulation looks like a gray powder.

Another method of thermal insulation of walls is ecowool spraying.

The ecological purity of the material is confirmed by the fact that it does not contain synthetic compounds and petroleum products, other substances that can emit fumes hazardous to human health.

When applying the material to the surface, it fills all the holes and voids, forming a monolithic insulating layer without joints.

Additives from borax and boric acid are excellent antiseptics for insulation, which do not allow any forms of biological life to breed in its thickness.

important positive quality ecowool for a wooden building is his heat resistance - material smolders, but does not ignite with an open flame.

Application of an insulating layer of ecowool

The wooden surface for spraying must be prepared - a crate is fixed on it right size- it will regulate the thickness of the coating. In addition, it will play the role of supporting elements so that not completely frozen material does not slide out from under its own weight.

To spray ecowool on the walls, a special installation is required, in the bunker of which dry material is poured. There it is loosened and moistened, and through a special pressure gun it is applied to the surface. The process itself is quite simple, but it cannot be carried out without a special apparatus.

Video: the technological process of spraying ecowool on wooden walls

In addition to the materials and technologies described above, to date there are many other heaters. Therefore, if the goal is to make the house warm and save family money on energy bills every day, then you can always find a material that meets all the criteria.

How to deal with the required thickness of insulation?

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the thickness wooden walls and climatic features region of residence.

Knowing the right thickness of insulation is important. An excessive “fur coat” can only damage a wooden house, and an insufficient one will not allow you to create comfortable living conditions. In addition, this parameter directly affects the design of the frame - it is important to know how far from the wall its guides should be placed under the outer one. Making independent calculations is not so difficult, especially if you use the proposed calculation method.

The point is, what total resistance to heat transfer of a sandwich wall structure R should not be less than calculated for a particular climatic region of the country. For convenience, these values are plotted on the map of the Russian Federation. In this case, we are interested in the upper value (purple numbers) - for the walls.

The wall is not only the frame itself, but also interior decoration(if it exists and is it planned, a layer of thermal insulation and exterior finish facade (important - external decoration, made according to the principle of a ventilated facade, is not taken into account). For each layer, its thermal resistance index is calculated.

An example is the following diagram:

1 - wooden wall (beam or log). There is a nuance - the thickness of the log wall (on the right) can be somewhat smaller than that of the timber. It is worth paying attention to this when measuring and further calculations.

2 - walls, if any. Often, in log houses, the walls in the rooms are left unsheathed - so as not to lose the naturalness of the coating. But they may well be sheathed with drywall (for painting or wallpapering), plywood, natural clapboard or panels made of wood composites, OSB sheets, etc.

3 - A layer of thermal insulation - it is precisely its thickness that must be determined.

The design may have several layers. So, if a sheathing without a ventilated gap is provided outside, close to the thaw material (for example, using natural board or wagons). then it will also need to be taken into account.

The figure also shows:

4 — vapor-permeable diffuse membrane.

5 - frame details ( battens).

6 - siding or lining, mounted according to the principle of a ventilated facade, with a gap (7). Here is such a finish, as already mentioned, no matter what material it would be made of, it will not make any tangible contribution to the overall thermal resistance of the wall structure, and we do not take it into account.

So, in order to determine the required thickness of insulation, it is required to know the thickness of each layer and the coefficient of their thermal conductivity.

Rn = Hn / λn

hn is the thickness of a particular layer.
λn- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material from which the layer is made.

As a result, the calculation formula takes the following form

Hu = (R– H1/ λ1 – H2/ λ2 – H3/ λ3 … ) × λу

Well- the thickness of the insulation.
λу- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the selected thermal insulation material.

Find coefficients for various materials it is easy in the reference literature - a lot of it is posted on the Internet. Measuring the thickness of existing layers is also not difficult.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house - milestone during construction country cottage. Insulation solves several problems at once: it provides thermal insulation and retains heat in the room for a long time, protects from noise and wind. In addition, it is convenient to lay the finishing of the facade on the insulation. Experts recommend insulating the walls of the house from the outside, as interior work reduces the space inside the building and does not provide full effective insulation.

In this article, we will look at how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside.

Warming a wooden house from the outside includes three main stages. First of all, you need to calculate and select the material. Then follows the laying of insulation and at the end - finishing facade. First, let's look at how to choose the right insulation for the exterior walls of a wooden house.

Which heater to choose

Today manufacturers offer different kinds heaters. When choosing a material, pay attention not only to the cost and ease of installation. High-quality insulation should have low water permeability, high thermal insulation and vapor permeability, resistance to fires and rodents. It is desirable that it be a natural material that does not violate the environmental friendliness of wood. If you are insulating walls with your own hands, the insulation should be easy to use.

Most suitable material for the insulation of wooden walls, mineral wool is considered. It guarantees high thermal insulation, allows air to pass through (ventilated) and allows the wood to “breathe”. Mineral wool is distinguished by softness and elasticity, simple calculations and installation. Therefore, you can easily lay the material with your own hands. Mineral wool effectively fills cracks and voids. In addition, rodents cannot damage the product, and the low weight of the insulation will not create a load on the walls and foundation of the house.

The second most popular insulation for wooden walls is polystyrene foam. It represents foam in sheets. It's good and effective insulation which will keep the heat in the room for a long time. It is characterized by light weight and simple installation, high soundproofing qualities and long service life.

However, such material "does not breathe" and is not ventilated, which is bad for natural wood. As a result, the walls will gradually rot and mold. In addition, the foam plastic can be damaged by rodents, and in the event of a fire, the insulation will slowly smolder, which is very dangerous.

Experts recommend using mineral wool to insulate the walls of a wooden house. Mineral wool is produced in layers or in rolls in slabs. The material in the plates is more convenient to use and during installation, which is important when doing do-it-yourself work.

Top best mineral wool manufacturers

rockwool

The heaters of this Danish company absorb noise and vibration, are distinguished by high thermal insulation, environmental friendliness and fire safety. Such material will last a long time without deformation and destruction. It will not crumble either during installation or during operation. Be careful, as fake products of this company are often found on the market!

Isover

The French company offers a wide range of mineral wool, which guarantees protection from cold and noise, increases the energy efficiency and comfort of a wooden house. The materials have several environmental quality certificates, which confirms the environmental friendliness and durability of the insulation. In the company's catalogs you will find modern products with high strength and elasticity, without dust and “pricklyness”.

Paroc

The mineral wool of the Finnish company is characterized by high thermal insulation, fire resistance, durability and environmental friendliness. The big advantage of this insulation is energy efficiency, because the material saves thermal energy. Mineral wool Paroc protects against noise and dust, but has a rather high price.

Knauf

These are Russian heaters with high rates of vapor permeability, heat and sound insulation. The material is characterized by increased fire safety and environmental friendliness, strength and durability, resistance to mold and bacteria. Knauf mineral wool is distinguished by easy installation with low dust generation and no strong odor.

Ursa

Mineral wool made from natural and naturally renewable components. The material is distinguished by rigidity and strength, high heat and sound insulation, incombustibility and long term operation. Experts recommend the new generation of PureOne cookers as they meet every requirement for quality and environmental friendliness.

Ursa PureOne is 1.5 times more rigid and durable than other thermal insulators! The material does not prick, does not crumble and does not deform. However, it is not among the top three products, as it collects dust a lot and emits bad smell during installation. Therefore, during installation, be sure to use special protection!

Beltep

Good and inexpensive mineral insulation with a wide choice of models on density. The material is characterized by high vapor permeability, fire safety and environmental friendliness, resistance to deformation. Minvata Beltep will provide acoustic comfort for the room.

Izovol

Mineral wool with good sound and thermal insulation properties, increased fire safety and environmental friendliness. Non-combustible material has an average density, suitable for wall insulation, shed and mansard roofs. But keep in mind that the insulation crumbles slightly when laying and is difficult to cut.

TechnoNIKOL

The largest manufacturer representing wide selection heaters. Materials are distinguished by environmental friendliness and fire safety, high heat and sound insulation. But despite the popularity and availability of the material, he collected a lot negative reviews. The mineral wool of this company is deformed and crumbles during installation. In addition, packs often come across slabs that are different in structure and density. Some sheets are much thinner than the indicated values.

wall insulation technology

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside is best done in the warm season. Before starting work, the surface of the walls is prepared for insulation. Preparation includes cleaning logs, repairing cracks and processing wood protective equipment. Antiseptics will protect wooden materials from rotting and mold, and flame retardants will not allow fire to spread over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe walls in case of fire.

Two days after the processing of the wooden walls, they proceed to the waterproofing layer. Used as waterproofing aluminum foil, standard polyethylene or special porous insulating film. When laying the insulating film with your own hands, make sure that the porous surface lies inward “facing” to the wall.

The waterproofing material is laid horizontally from below with an overlap of 10-15 cm and gradually lifted up. The film or foil is attached to the surface of the walls with brackets using construction stapler. The joints are carefully glued with construction tape.

A crate of bars or boards with a thickness equal to the thickness of the insulation is laid on the waterproofing layer. The standard thickness of the insulation is 50 mm. For a wooden wall with a thickness of 20 cm and temperatures in winter up to minus 20, one layer of mineral wool is enough. In colder winters, two or three coats should be applied. The distance between the bars or boards is made 3-5 centimeters less than the width of the insulation.

The next step is the installation of insulation. Mineral wool is easy to install with your own hands. If necessary, the plates are cut. Through the cotton wool with an interval of 50 cm, a hole is made in the wall and an anchor is driven in, and a core is driven into the anchor. When working with mineral wool, wear protective mask and glasses!

Waterproofing is once again laid on the insulation layer, which is fastened with brackets to the crate. Then a counter-lattice is made of bars or slats with a section of 50x50 mm. It is desirable that the wooden materials of the battens and counter battens be treated with antiseptics! This will increase service life designs.

The final stage

At the end, the facade is finished. Block house, lining, siding and even brick are used as finishing materials. Experts recommend using natural material, such as wooden lining, block house or timber. This will preserve the aesthetics and harmony of a wooden house.

The above finishing materials are also easy to install with your own hands. During installation, it is important to fasten the products close to each other and not leave gaps and crevices through which moisture or insects can enter the wooden walls.

Caulking and wall sealing

But what if you want to keep log house in its original form, and at the same time use the building for permanent residence? Indeed, without insulation in such a cottage it will be cold. In this case, insulation and sealing of the seams are used.

After installing the log house, the walls are caulked, i.e. lay logs with insulation. The material used is jute, moss or tow. Installation starts from the bottom crown, go along the perimeter of the house and only then move on to the next crown. First, insulation is done inside the house, and then outside.

Warming and finishing are performed only after shrinkage of a wooden house!

To consolidate the result, the seams between the logs inside and outside the house are sealed. Experts recommend using acrylic sealants (“warm seam”). Such material is distinguished by environmental friendliness, durability, good thermal and waterproofing. In addition, the sealant is easy to use and install.

To properly insulate wooden walls from the outside, you need to choose a high-quality insulation and follow the laying technology. External insulation will require serious financial and time investments, but as a result, you will get annual savings on heating your home. In addition, living in such a room will be comfortable, and the service life of the structure and wood will increase.

If you do not know which insulation to choose and how to install the insulation of wooden walls, contact the professionals! Masters "MariSrub" will select and calculate the necessary thermal insulation materials, reliably and promptly perform work on the insulation and decoration of a wooden house, cottage or bath.

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