To date ideal option A simple redevelopment in the house is the installation of a plasterboard partition. Prefabricated installation wall panels considered more acceptable and economically profitable solution than the process of building walls using bricks or blocks. Moreover, this technology is not particularly difficult and it is available to anyone who can work with power tools and has at least some idea of ​​​​gypsum boards.

Schematic diagram of a plasterboard partition.

Drywall is a material that is a gypsum layer lined with cardboard on both sides. GKL is made of special building plaster, which allows you to both absorb excess moisture and give it back. The material is non-toxic and has high refractory characteristics. It is used for the construction of internal partitions, wall cladding and suspended ceilings.

Design features of plasterboard partitions

Wall erection drywall partitions There are three types, the choice and arrangement of which depends on the purpose of the room:

1. Simple. This technology provides for sheathing a metal frame with one sheet of drywall.
2. Reinforced. In this case, for the installation of plasterboard wall panels, it is assumed that the frame is sheathed with plasterboard on both sides.
3. Reinforced. reinforced metal structure has a double plasterboard cladding.

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Partition device

chief constructive element interior plasterboard wall panels is a rigid metal frame, consisting of steel profiles. During installation, several types of profiles are used, each of which is designed for a certain type of load. The frame element is made of steel tape cold rolling, the width of which varies from 0.55 ... 0.8 mm. To protect against exposure environment they are galvanized. In addition to resistance to such influences, the profiles can withstand sufficient load when attaching additional finishes and various hinged elements. To do this, they are provided with stiffeners.

The following profiles are used to assemble the frame:

1. "PS" - a rack profile, used as a vertical rack, on which the GKL is subsequently attached. Its section has the form of a channel.
2. "PN" - used as a guide base for rack profiles or as a jumper between them. It also has a section in the form of a channel.

In some cases, special material is laid for sound and heat insulation. Drywall partitions typically use mineral wool or Styrofoam, which is a thermoplastic foam (2% plastic and 98% air).

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Installation of drywall to the frame

Before proceeding with the installation of drywall, you should complete the installation of ventilation, electrical and plumbing work in home. The technology for installing drywall partitions begins with marking.

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We make drywall partitions on our own - 5 stages of installation

Mounting technology

Mounting interior partitions can be divided into five stages:

You will also need parts to assemble the frame:

In wooden houses, partitions are often made on a wooden frame. In this case, instead of profiles, a bar with a section of 75x25 mm or 50x25 mm is used.

In addition, to perform the installation of drywall partitions, you will need some other materials:

• dowel-nails and self-tapping screws for fastening profiles and drywall;
• primer;
• tape for reinforcing joints;
• starting putty, as well as finishing if the partition is to be painted.

Now you can get to work.

Stage 2: Marking

Before making drywall partitions, it is imperative to mark the ceiling, walls and floor. This operation is carried out as follows:

1. start work by marking the future partition on the ceiling. To do this, step back from the wall required distance and mark a few points. Then connect these points with a line, drawing it with a pencil and a rule, or using a masking cord;

1. now the markings need to be transferred to the floor using plumb lines. To do this, mark several points on the floor, and then connect them with a line.

1. the resulting lines on the ceiling and on the floor must be connected by vertical lines on the walls. If you do not have a plumb line, you can draw vertical lines on the wall from the line on the ceiling using a level, and then connect them with a line on the floor.

Before proceeding with the layout, it is advisable to draw up a plan of the room and determine the location of the partition on it. This will avoid mistakes and rework.

In the process of marking, make sure that the corners of the junction of the walls correspond to 90 degrees, unless another value is originally planned.

Stage 3: frame assembly

Installation of a plasterboard partition begins with the assembly of the frame. True, it is possible to start it only if the foundation is solid and even.

If the floor is uneven, you must first level it. On the concrete floor you can perform or even use a self-leveling mortar. True, the latter allows you to eliminate only small level differences.

Especially responsibly it is necessary to approach the preparation of a wooden floor. If the boards stagger or bend when walking, you need to securely fasten them or even strengthen the base with additional lags.

So, let's take a look at how to assemble the frame step by step:

1. first of all, prepare the guides - cut them along the length of the partition;
2. then you need to fix the guides on the wall and floor, aligning them with the markings. Fasten the rails to the wall so that you can later attach jumpers to them.
   To fix the profiles, dowel nails are usually used, however, if the installation of plasterboard partitions is carried out in wooden house, you can use self-tapping screws;

1. then you need to cut the rack profiles along the height of the wall;

1. after preparing the rack profiles, you can begin their installation. The work is carried out quite simply and quickly - the racks are inserted into the guides, after which they are attached to them with self-tapping screws. The distance between PS profiles should be 60 cm;

1. to strengthen the frame, a beam of the same section as the racks should be inserted into the profiles. Strengthening may be required if you want to attach furniture to the wall. In addition, it is desirable to strengthen the doorway;

1. after that, jumpers are installed. They can be made with your own hands from ordinary profiles in several ways.
   Most often, incisions are made in the corners of the profile, i.e. between the backs and the shelf, after which they are bent at 90 degrees. You can also make oblique cuts, as shown in the diagram above;

Jumpers should be located in increments of 60 cm. To ensure the greatest rigidity of the structure, they must be installed in a checkerboard pattern.

To improve the sound insulation of the frame, stick a sealing tape on the profiles.

This completes the installation. By the same principle, drywall partitions are assembled on a wooden frame. The only thing is that metal corners are used to join the frame parts, into which self-tapping screws are screwed.

Keep in mind that for wooden frame only well-dried timber can be used. If the humidity exceeds 15-20 percent, over time they can lead. As a result, the entire structure will warp.

In addition, do not forget to treat the bars with antiseptic impregnation. Otherwise, the timber may be affected by rot, mold or insects. Therefore, partitions from GVL on metal frame more practical in this regard.

Stage 4: frame sheathing

Now the frame needs to be sheathed with drywall. This process quite simple - the sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. The only thing is that in the process of work it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

• the caps of the self-tapping screws must be slightly recessed, otherwise they will interfere with further puttying. At the same time, they cannot be deeply buried, otherwise they will break through the cardboard;

• the pitch between the screws should be 250 mm. As a rule, drywall has a marking for the location of self-tapping screws, which simplifies the work;
• the ends of the sheets should fall on the center of the profiles. "Hanging" joints will lead to cracking of the finish in these areas;

• sheets should be placed with ligation of seams.

Before you install drywall, you will probably need to cut some sheets. This is done quite simply:

1. draw a cut line on the sheet;
2. attach a ruler or rule to the cut line;

1. cut a layer of cardboard along the rule or ruler with a knife;
2. then gently refract the GKL along the cut line and fold in half;
3. now cut the second layer of cardboard along the fold line.

After one side of the partition is sheathed, lay soundproofing material in the space. Mineral basalt mats are excellent for these purposes. Their price is slightly higher than polystyrene, but this material is more environmentally friendly and copes better with the task.

If you install a drywall partition without sound insulation, then literally every rustle will be heard in the next room.

Stage 5: drywall finishing

We can say that the installation of a drywall partition is completed on this. However, the resulting wall is not yet ready for finishing.

To prepare the partition, you must perform the following steps:

1. the first step is the jointing of the seams - a chamfer is cut off from the edges of the gypsum board at the joints. To do this, you can use a sharp mounting knife;

1. then the wall surface must be treated with two layers of primer using a roller or brush. The second layer can only be applied after the first has dried.
   Pay special attention to the processing of the ends of the sheets. You can even “walk” on them with a brush;
2. now you need to reinforce the joints of the sheets. To do this, prepare starting putty, and fill the space between the sheets with it. Putty is applied perpendicular to the seam.

Then level the putty by running along the seam with a spatula. Without waiting for the composition to begin to set, glue the reinforcing tape to the seam, and apply a second layer of putty in the same way.

According to this principle, all the seams of the sheets on each side of the partition must be sealed;

1. then you need to putty the caps of the screws with the same putty. To do this, type the composition on a spatula and run it over the hat. As a result, the recess should be filled with putty;
2. after the putty has hardened, the surface must be cleaned with a spatula. Then these areas must be cleaned of dust and primed with a brush;

1. then putty the entire surface of the partition on both sides, using wide spatula. At this stage, you also need to stick the plaster corners on all the outer corners of the wall, if any. The corners will not only align the corners, but also protect them from chipping;
2. after the putty has hardened, it must be sanded with sandpaper or mesh with P120 abrasive. In the process of grinding, try to get rid of all serious flaws on the surface. To do this, make circular movements with the tool;

1. then you need to clean the surface of dust and primed;
2. if you are going to paint a wall, be sure to apply thin layer finishing putty and carefully sand it with sandpaper or mesh with fine abrasive - P150;
3. to achieve perfect smooth surface, remove dust from the partition and prime it again. After that, you can finish the wall with a finish coat.

Conclusion

Now you can install drywall partitions without the help of specialists. Try not to violate the above technology in order to get good result. I recommend watching the video in this article, and if something is not clear to you, feel free to ask questions in the comments, and I will definitely answer you.

A modern selection of finishing materials allows you to easily carry out repairs of any complexity in own apartment or home. The main thing is to be available necessary set tools and detailed instructions.

The delimitation of space in a room has long ceased to be a problem, since you can easily make a simple plasterboard partition with your own hands. Drywall is a fairly affordable and easy-to-work material. It has a lot of pros and almost no cons.

1. Light weight.
2. Low price.
3. Ease of processing.
4. Good soundproofing.
5. No "wet" and dirty work during installation.
6. Variety of finishes on the outer layer.
7. The framework allowing laying of any communications.

Plasterboard structures of any configuration are usually mounted on a metal profile. It is not advisable to use a wooden frame structure: the tree rots, deforms over time, working with it requires additional effort and availability special tool. And the cost of wooden bars is not lower than a metal profile.

Other Required Materials

1. Sealing tape.
2. Reinforcing tape for fastening seams.
3. Self-tapping screws for metal.
4. Self-tapping screws with a press washer.
5. Dowel nails.
6. Putty for sealing joints between sheets of drywall.
7. Acrylic primer.
8. Drywall sheets 12-14 mm thick.

What is the profile for drywall

Ordinary and familiar ceiling profiles for siding cannot be used for the installation of plasterboard structures. They are too fragile and unreliable. For drywall, special fittings are used: reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles. Guide fittings are used to fasten drywall to the ceiling or walls. There are 4 guide profile markings, depending on the thickness of the material. The thinnest - 50 by 40 mm, the widest - 100 by 40 mm. The length for all sizes is the same - 3 meters.

Rack fittings are also divided into 4 types: from 50 to 50 mm to 100 to 50 mm. As can be seen from the markings, the widest profile is the strongest and most reliable. Length y rack profile varies from 3 to 4 meters. The rack profile, from which the vertical frame of the plasterboard partition is formed, is not recommended to be extended in length, otherwise the structure will not have sufficient strength.

Tools required for the construction of a drywall partition

After everything the right tools and materials purchased, should be carefully considered future design partitions and its location in the room.

On the second wall, exactly such marks are made. They must match. You can check the accuracy of the markup as follows: you need to draw a straight line across the floor from one mark on the wall to the second. If the lines match, then the markup is correct. Along these lines, a plasterboard partition will be attached to the wall and to the floor.

In the same way, marks are measured on the ceiling. It is important that the line on the floor is strictly perpendicular to the markings on the ceiling. In this case, the future partition will not have a roll or skew in any direction.

After the markup is applied, you can begin mounting the profile on the walls, floor and ceiling. Guide fittings are screwed to the ceiling. A rack profile is attached to the walls and floor.

A sealing rubberized tape is placed between the wall and the profile. This material is designed for tight coupling of load-bearing wall structures with a partition. Also, the sealing tape plays the role of a buffer when the temperature and humidity climate in the room changes, due to which drywall construction may shrink or expand slightly. The tape will protect it from cracks and deformation.

To get into the room, fenced off by a partition, you need a passage, under which profiles are specially mounted. If you plan to insert the door into the partition structure, then the doorway needs to be strengthened. This can be done in several ways.

1. Insert into each other and fasten the rack profiles.
2. Insert a wooden beam inside the profile.
3. Strengthen the profile with a steel frame.
4. Place two rack profiles side by side.

According to experts, the first method is the most optimal, but only if the intended door is made of lightweight materials, and the estimated weight does not exceed 45 kg. For heavier door panels it is recommended to purchase a special reinforced rack profile, the thickness of which exceeds 2 mm.

Under the doorway is required to leave desired width(web size) and add another 8 cm to the existing size for the door frame.

After door profile exposed, between them the upper jumper is exposed and fastened.

The next step is to reinforce the structure with reinforced rack profiles. From the mounted doorway, a vertical crate of fittings is made, from floor to ceiling, step - 40-50 cm. After completion of the work, a kind of cage is obtained, with a vertically attached profile.

It is important to know

Rack profiles are required to be mounted in a certain order: the stiffener should be directed in the direction from which the plasterboard lining of the frame will begin. This is due to the fact that you need to fasten the first sheets of drywall from the side of the rib, the next - to the rest of the rack profile. If you do not follow the recommended frame sheathing technology, the partition will turn out to be convex or deformed.

If you plan to lay communications ( electrical wires, computer and television cables), it is desirable that the holes for the wires are at the same level.

If it is planned to hang a picture or a lamp on the partition, then a transverse jumper from the profile must be pre-mounted in the metal frame. The place of the jumper should be noted in order to further attach the accessory using self-tapping screws to the profile.

The width of the partition can be varied. The thinnest partition consists of a single frame. If you need a stronger and robust construction, then the profile can be mounted in several layers. Thanks to this, it is possible to improve the soundproofing and heat-saving performance of the partition.

Facing the erected frame from the profile with drywall

Rules for cutting sheet material

When attaching the material to a metal profile, the sheet must be less than the height of the walls and 1 cm from the floor. When cutting facing material care should be taken to cut off the cardboard and gypsum core with a special knife for cutting drywall. This will protect the material from cracking and breakage during cutting into fragments of the required size.

It is desirable to process the edges with a peeling planer, then with the help of an edge planer a chamfer is cut at the ends, having an angle of 20-22 degrees.

It is worth knowing that sheets can only be joined on a metal profile, therefore, when cutting drywall, the step between the rack fittings should be taken into account.

The sheets obtained after cutting are attached to the metal profile using self-tapping screws, at least 3 cm long. It is necessary to screw the screws to the profile after 15-20 cm, at the jumpers and joints of the sheets, this distance can be reduced to 10 cm. , optimally - 15 mm from the edge.

When fixing the facing material, it is not necessary to embed the self-tapping screws into the drywall too much, maximum by 1 mm. Embedded hats can be puttied later.

After one side of the partition is lined with drywall, you can proceed with the installation soundproofing material and laying communications inside the structure.

Communication wires are passed through special holes in the metal profile.

For soundproofing, you can use mineral wool, polyfoam, expanded polystyrene, isover. Each type of material has a whole set useful properties, for example, expanded polystyrene can be used in rooms with high humidity.

To soundproof the partition, the material is cut into fragments and placed inside sections from the profile. It is important to choose a material of a certain thickness that will not stick out due to the edges of the metal profile. After placing the soundproofing material, you can proceed to facing the second side of the partition.

After the construction of the drywall construction, it is required to give it a presentable appearance. To do this, a layer of primer is applied to the surface of the material, which will protect the wall from moisture and corrosion.

After priming, the drywall is puttied, leveling out all the irregularities, hiding the fastener caps, seams. Putty is applied to the seams between the sheets, leveled, then, until it dries, a reinforcing tape is attached to the top of the putty and recessed with a spatula.

Video - Installation of a large partition in a private house

It is worth knowing that if a plasterboard partition is pasted over with wallpaper, then its surface must be completely puttied. This is due to the fact that seams can be visible through thin wallpaper and spoil the whole look of the structure. There is another reason: the surface of the material is made of cardboard. If you stick wallpaper on cardboard, then after a while they cannot be removed by anything. You will have to glue new wallpaper on top of the old ones.

Do not use facade putty for internal works. This material may release toxic substances and be harmful to health.

For the construction of a partition in places with unstable humidity and temperature indicators, it is recommended to use special drywall sheets. They are dyed in green color and have good moisture resistance. This material can be tiled.

Video - Installation of a KNAUF plasterboard partition

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

Installing a partition from the GKL in the apartment - optimal solution to divide the interior space. Thanks to its versatility given material is in high demand and popularity in the field of apartment renovation. The options for its use are very diverse, but most often drywall is used for the construction of partitions with their subsequent decorative finish.

Highlights similar designs attractive appearance, ease of installation and the ability to do it yourself. And the opening design possibilities make it possible to make the overall appearance of the apartment original, individual, stylish and extremely attractive.

The rigidity of a partition with a plasterboard lining is given by a partition made of wooden or metal profiles frame. With an understandable step by step instructions, necessary materials and tools, its construction will also not take much effort and time.

Price

How much does it cost to install a drywall partition? If you decide to turn to specialists, the construction of a partition without sound insulation with plasterboard sheathing in one layer will cost you, taking into account the cost of materials, 900–1100 rubles. for 1 sq. m in Moscow and 800-900 rubles. for 1 sq. m in St. Petersburg. The cost of a two-layer partition with noise and heat insulation will be from 1800 to 2100 rubles. for 1 sq. m in the capital and from 1200 rubles. for 1 sq. m in St. Petersburg.

If you plan to mount the partition yourself, it will cost you 2 times cheaper.

Where do we start?

Before you start installing a drywall partition with your own hands in the selected room, you need to carefully consider the future design, complete the basic drawing. It does not require specific knowledge and calculations from you, but it must the smallest details display all required parameters.

• Let's start with the fact that in the selected format we will reflect on paper the dimensions of the room chosen for the partition.
• We draw the place of the desired location of the future internal partition from drywall.
• Similarly, we perform the frontal drawing of the partition, reflecting bearing structures and jumpers.
• Calculate the number of future racks will help determine the planned loads on the partition being performed using drywall during its operation. Additionally, keep in mind that the edges of the sheets of material are attached to different frame profiles. This will make it possible to evenly distribute the load over the entire plane of the frame, taking into account all the used decorative elements. Perhaps you decide to make a wall with drywall shelves.

What materials and tools will be needed

For the manufacture of drywall partitions, first of all, the construction of a rigid frame will be required. It is made from a 75 mm wide galvanized profile using additional elements and wooden bars. You will need the latter to increase the rigidity of the structure in certain areas. The partition is sheathed with standard sheets 12.5 mm thick, which are fixed with self-tapping screws. Soundproofing material is laid between the plasterboard.

In addition to the materials listed, you will need your own or rented tools:

• or a drill with an appropriate attachment.
• Laser or hydraulic level. The first option is preferable, as it will greatly simplify and speed up your work on creating a partition, and will allow you to qualitatively beat off vertical and horizontal levels.
• Five or ten meter tape measure.
• Plumb.

The process of arranging a partition using drywall can be divided into several stages, including:

• installation of a doorway;
• sheathing of the GKL partition;
• execution of finishing.

We create the basis for the partition frame

With the help of drawing tools and a level on the ceiling and floor surface we make markings, noting where the partition will stand.

• We fix the guide profile to the floor with self-tapping screws.
• We insert vertical guides into the profile located on the floor with a step of half a meter, we fasten them to the walls strictly vertically. At the joints of the profiles, we use self-tapping screws or a cutter to fasten them together.
• Using a plumb line, we mount the guide profile of the future partition on the ceiling.

As a result, by installing 4 profiles, we get a rectangular frame that will serve as the basis for the future frame.

Making a doorway in a partition

If the design of the partition provides for the presence hinged door, you should take care of the presence in the frame of a place for mounting door block. The walls of the structure must have sufficient rigidity to withstand the expected load.

Strengthening the profile with dry, straight wooden blocks will help to give rigidity to the profile.

To install a doorway in a partition, we perform the following steps:

• We trim the rack profile to the required height, strengthen it with a wooden block inserted inside.
• Install finished structure inside the upper (ceiling) and lower (floor) guide profile so that the width is the same in the upper and lower parts of the opening. We check the verticality of the racks with a level, and fix them with self-tapping screws.

• For the manufacture of cross beam cut out a piece of the rack profile corresponding to the width of the future doorway. We also strengthen it with a wooden block.
• We set the transverse profile strictly horizontally to the required height.

The crossbar can be installed in two ways:

1. Fasten the cuttings of the rails, corresponding to the width of the rack profile, on both reinforced racks, insert the prepared crossbar into them and fix.
2. At the rack profile, which will serve as a crossbar, cut out the middle part, leaving the "antennae" for which it will be attached to the racks.

Important! In both cases, when connecting the profile, it is recommended to use a cutter. This will help ensure a snug fit of the gypsum board and avoid "humps" from the screws on the surface of the partition.

Fasten with nails wooden structures inserted in the profile.

Installation of vertical racks

We mount the rack profile, taking into account standard width GKL (120 cm), there are 3 racks per sheet.

Since it is better to start the installation of whole sheets of drywall from the center, this makes it possible to most effectively “hide” the cutting points, so we also install the racks accordingly - from the door to the walls. The verticality of each of the vertical profiles is checked by a level.

HELPFUL INFORMATION: Moisture-resistant plasterboard ceiling in the bathroom

Wiring and horizontal bars

The connection of vertical rack profiles with horizontal crossbars will add rigidity to the entire structure. The installation step is usually taken about 75 cm.

• depending on step uprights cut pieces of the rack profile of a suitable size.
• After assembling the frame, we lay the electrical wires (for this, the manufacturer provides special holes in the profiles).

Important! Electrical wires in without fail put in a corrugated tube.

To date, the most popular method of arranging interior partitions is the installation of drywall systems.

And this is not at all surprising:

• low cost of base materials;
• high speed of installation work;
• relative ease of assembly, if desired, everything can be done with your own hands and without assistants;
• many design options;
• low weight structures.

And it is worth noting that in addition to all these qualities, the installation of drywall partitions can be made on the most different objects. Let's talk a little about this.

Where and how can plasterboard partitions be used

In fact, it is, of course, impossible to list all areas of application, but basically such partitions are made:

1. in apartments and private houses;
2. in office buildings and state institutions;
3. in entertainment and shopping centers;
4. cafes and nightclubs.

Partition walls with double siding

The technology, when the partition frame is sheathed with two layers of sheets, can be used in several cases.

1. When you need to maximize the level of sound insulation between rooms. For example, it can be partitions between rooms in nightclubs.
2. When you need to make the wall plane very rigid. As good example you can again bring discos, nightclubs, places with high traffic of people.
3. When, for one reason or another, it is impossible to make the frame directly rigid enough. Usually this is due to the lack of profiles for the structure or the use of low-quality metal. In such cases, the rigidity of the partition is achieved by screwing additional sheets on top of the main ones.

Now consider the classical construction.

Standard Partitions

Such systems, in fact, are a solid wall without additional reinforcements.

You can install them in any room, but it is worth remembering a number of important points:

1. If the installation of a plasterboard partition is carried out in rooms with high humidity, only moisture-resistant sheets should be used for sheathing the frame. (see also article)
2. Do not neglect the rules of technology. Be sure to lay mineral wool inside the frame between drywall sheets. Even if you don't need to insulate. The fact is that an empty design is not only good for passing sounds between rooms, but also slightly amplifying them. It is unlikely that you need such an effect.
3. If there is a stove, a heating boiler or a fireplace near the partition, the frame must be sheathed with fire-resistant drywall.

Partitions with doors

DIY tips:

Firstly, if a door is included in the design, the partition will vibrate slightly during opening. So that this “slightly” does not become a problem, you need to fasten the metal to each other, to the walls, floor and ceiling really well, as it should be according to the requirements of the technology!

Otherwise, all connections of the structure will gradually loosen, and this already threatens not only with vibration, but also with constant unpleasant sounds.

Secondly, additional reinforcement must be mounted around the perimeter of the door. This is done with the help of a strong beam, which is embedded in inner sides profile around the perimeter of the door. It is to him that you need to screw interior doors. It will be strong and reliable!

Now consider what the master will need to make a plasterboard partition device on his own.

Required inventory

From Supplies, except for drywall sheets, we need:

• guide (marked CW) and bearing (UW) profile for partitions. The photo clearly shows how these materials look;

• a set of self-tapping screws for the installation of drywall systems;
• mineral wool in rolls.

As for the last point, you can also find denser mineral wool in sheets on the market. The effect of it in terms of heat and sound insulation is better, but it also costs an order of magnitude more expensive. And as practice shows, standard cotton wool in rolls is quite enough to create a normal insulating layer.

Advice! Be careful when buying screws, use products from good manufacturers.

Now about the tool:

• perforator and screwdriver;
• grinder and scissors for metal;
• a set of screwdrivers and a hammer;
• square, rule with level and building thread;
• pencil and upholstery cord with paint;
• roulette;
• ladder.

Tip: If the price of a power tool doesn't suit you, you can always save money by renting one.

So, suppose that we have everything to carry out the work, consider the rules that the assembly instruction contains.

Partition wall installation

As an illustrative example, consider a standard one-piece wall-to-wall construction without openings, shelves, or niches.

First of all, you need to make markup. At this stage, you need to be as patient and attentive as possible, since this is the very case when it is better to “measure 7 times and cut off once”.

markup

1. We determine the point that will be the starting point for the line of the future frame.
2. We put a mark on the ceiling near one of the walls of the room.
3. We put a mark on the ceiling near the second wall and use the upholstery cord to connect the dots.
4. With the help of a square, we check whether we have drawn the line correctly.
5. With the help of a plumb line and upholstery cord, we transfer the line to the floor.
6. We connect the edges of the upper and lower lines along the walls.

On this, the markup is completed, we have received the outlined perimeter of the future partition, along which we will now mount the guide profile.

Frame assembly

1. We measure the distance along the floor and ceiling from wall to wall, as well as the height of each of the walls.
2. In accordance with the figures obtained, we prepare profiles of the desired size.
3. We attach them to the plane, drill the walls and nail them with a quick installation.

And now you need to prepare marks in order to determine the place of insertion of vertical racks, CW profiles.

This is done quite simply.

We put marks along the guide profile along the plane of the ceiling every 60 cm. Using a plumb line, we duplicate them on a horizontal profile at the bottom of the frame. Here, focusing on these points, we will mount the rack profiles.

Why exactly 60 centimeters?

Because we will attach the sheets to the frame in their entire height and we need to have a stand along each edge of the sheet and its middle, and the width of the sheet is 120 cm.

Let's start to mount the racks.

1. Regarding the set points, we measure the height near each future rack.
2. Cut the profile to the desired length. If the ceiling height over size profile, for fastening the racks to each other, there are special adapters on sale. However, it is better to use racks of greater length (they come in 3.4 and 6 m) and not use adapters so that the racks do not have weak points.
3. We insert the carrier profile into the grooves of the guides and connect them.
4. Similarly, we do along the entire guide line.

The frame is almost ready. Almost, because you will need more horizontal jumpers, which will need to be inserted between the standing ones in those places where the drywall sheets will touch.

But you can do otherwise and immediately fasten the metal, and we will already “adjust” the size of the sheets to fit the jumpers.

It is advisable to place jumpers not only at the borders of the sheets, but also every 50 cm from the bottom up, so the frame will be stiffer, and the sheets are guaranteed not to bend inside the structure.

The process of making jumpers is very simple. In fact, this is an ordinary piece of a carrier profile with small "lips" at both ends. The “lip” is needed so that the carrier profile fits comfortably into the grooves of the jumper and so that there is a point where the screws actually need to be screwed.

You need to understand that in the future it will be attached to the partition. If it is planned to hang an air conditioner or shelves on its plane, you need to make one more additional embedded jumpers from a strong wooden beam.

Did you make jumpers and screw them on?

Then we proceed to the last stage of the assembly.

Frame sheathing

In fact, this is the fastest and easiest step. It is generally accepted that the assembly of the partition frame is 75% of all work, everything else is sheathing.

We will not explain how to fasten sheets to metal, but rather we will talk about a few important points which should not be forgotten.

1. Before sheathing, plan where the switches and sockets will be located, in accordance with this plan, put the cable inside the frame.
2. Mineral wool is laid only after the frame is sewn up with sheets on one side.

1. Spend exactly as many self-tapping screws on 1 sheet as required by technology. As a rule, marks are visible along the middle of each sheet, which show how far apart the screws should be located from each other (about every 20 cm).
2. Do not forget to screw in the self-tapping screws to the end so that there are no protruding hats, during the puttying of the plane this will interfere very much. Too "recessed" self-tapping screws into the sheet is impossible, so the edge of the GKL breaks and, accordingly, the strength of the connection is violated.

And here, too, it is very important to follow a few rules:

1. It is necessary to clean the plane of the partition from dust and carefully prime the drywall. Acrylic primer is best suited for this.
2. All seams must be processed first special glue, which is applied to the reinforcing mesh.

1. Each subsequent layer can be applied only when the previous one is completely (!) dried.

Only in this way, following the rules of technology and recommendations experienced craftsmen, you will get a good and high-quality result.

Conclusion

We hope that you understand the technology of plasterboard partitions and all described key points. Well, if, nevertheless, some points remained incomprehensible, we recommend that you watch the video at the end of the article - this is a great addition to the instructions provided.

We wish you a successful, high-quality and, of course, fast repair!

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