Make a workbench table. Making a homemade locksmith workbench. How to make modules with convenient drawers

The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years is one of common mistakes development of workbenches of their own design.

The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal bed.

Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile designs of workbenches for home/amateur work different nature a lot. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Second, how to make a workbench general purpose or universal for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, for carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vise on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for installing them, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” prefabricated workbench

This is the wrong decision, not only because the wooden countertop deteriorates from carpentry. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. The approach to designing the countertop (board, cover) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - thin or rough, see below.

work bench

In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.

The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then garage and metalwork. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:

• Underwork (in carpentry workbenches), or bed (in metalwork), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
• Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
• Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
• The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not a mandatory accessory of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a pedestal, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or table top. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In a locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.

The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame, not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never sag. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the bed of a home workbench will be fully provided by coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality.

The design of the wooden frame of the workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are conducted in mirror reflection. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.

If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. Load bearing capacity will rise to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbenches. A box-shaped cover is placed on it under the carpentry (see below), and under the locksmith a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

An all-wood workbench, without the need for welding to manufacture it, can be made according to the scheme on the trail. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, glued from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

The opposite happens: metal more accessible than wood and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench is suitable according to the scheme at the top right of a professional pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: under the carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adapted, as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vise.

For carpentry

The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best mounting option for a non-separable workbench is steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench is arranged is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. B. Then quality boards solid wood only needed on the shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Vice for carpentry

All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.

First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.

The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped according to the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).

Note: the nut welded on the base must be allowed to rest for at least 2 hours before the thread passes, so that the residual deformations “subside”.

Vice and carpentry for a locksmith

The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see inset in the figure), so that as much of the dynamic loads as possible during metal processing fall vertically on corner post. The location of the cross beams and intermediate uprights It is advisable to make a workbench with a stationary vise a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vise. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:

• A collet anchor is driven into a wooden corner post under the mounting bolt, and welded into a metal one high nut or a threaded bushing (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
• If the fastener is welded, thread with taps, as in a homemade carpenter's vice nut, see above;
• Put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes for fixing points 2, 3 and 4 in place;
• The vise is removed and through holes 2, 3 and 4 are drilled;
• Put a vise on the bolts 1, 2 and 3;
• For mounting on bolt 4, put under the cover (tabletop) a strut U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the jib, but it should rest from under the bottom against the upper frame (strap) of the bed, but not against the table top!
• Attach the vise finally to the bolt 4.

Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs fit well plastic bottles, they withstand tight landings many times.

Garage workbench

A workbench in the garage cannot be made optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time already, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench "responds" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

The scheme of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of chipboard 32 mm thick and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; it will also fit into the house for fine work (electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. The resistance of the work surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.

More about plywood

In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If the pillow board locksmith workbench is still made of plywood, then to its bottom you need to glue a frame (frame) on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.

To the rising shift

Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.

Workbenches in the country

When a country house or other light wooden the structure is still being built, there is no time for bench wisdom, at least something is needed on which simple carpentry work can be done. For such a case, hastily you can put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. At minimum flow material and extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, tk. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a summer residence, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

A good workbench in the garage allows you to make different kinds work on metal and wood in a short period of time. Here are stored various tools and small parts. in plain language, it is a special table on which you can make turning and locksmith products.

In addition to the countertop, there may be multilayer structures shelves and hanging containers for storing nails, screws and nuts.

Making a universal workbench is quite simple. The main thing in this matter is to prepare a project and detailed drawings future product. In the process of creation, it is necessary to observe the order of each action.

Self-manufacturing such a structure will save a decent amount. Besides, individual project helps to make a design based on the parameters of your premises.

Workbench Varieties

There are several types of workbench. Each of them has some characteristic features. In turn, they are divided into:

Locksmith. It is intended for metal work. The tabletop of such a product is made of high-strength metal alloy. This is necessary for security. Sparks may be present during iron work.

In addition, the use lubricants can leave marks on wooden surface. The iron base does not require special care.

Joiner's. Its surface is made up of solid wood. A carpenter's workbench is used for woodworking. These products do not have high strength and versatility, unlike metalwork.

The universal table has a metal and wooden tabletop in its design. The drawing of the workbench shows the arrangement of the carpentry work area.

What is included in the design of the workbench?

If the product is made independently, then it is important to think over every little thing. Additional shelves and capacious hanging containers will help to rationally use this product. standard model contains a lot of drawers for storing large tools.

A homemade table can have both a metal and a wooden storage system. An additional metal shield allows you to store small hanging tools here. Now hacksaws and hammers will be located in one place.

How to make a workbench with your own hands?

We bring to your attention detailed instructions how to make a workbench. Manufacturing carpenter's table takes place in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare all the tools and materials.

For this you will need:

• hacksaw;
• screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers of different diameters;
• joiner's square;
• level;
• bolts;
• nuts;
• self-tapping screws;
• detailed drawing products;
• wrench.

From the materials you need to prepare:

• bars for support. The size of each element should be 110 x 110 mm. In the selection process, special attention must be paid to the condition of the wood. There should not be cracks and knots;
• plywood sheets 30 mm thick;
• frame boards.

When all necessary items prepared, you can proceed to the workflow. It includes the following steps:

The initial action will be the construction of the lower frame, in which the tools and the bench will be located. To do this, the boards are sawn off to the desired level. Then they are connected to each other using self-tapping screws. The end result should be a rectangular shape.

A spacer bar is installed in the middle. In the future, it will reduce the resistance of the finished product during the workflow, you will need a small wooden board.

The support legs of the table are fixed with bolts. To do this, through holes are made in the plane of the frame. For reliability, it is recommended to make from 6 to 8 legs around the entire perimeter.

To give rigidity to the product, it is necessary to make a lower shelf. At the bottom of each leg, 25 cm are marked. Next, long wooden planks are attached here. In the future, a chipboard panel will be fixed on their surface. She will act as the foundation.

When the main part of the frame is completed, proceed to install the top countertop. Here you will need a hacksaw. It removes the redundant parts of the board.

Protect surface wooden tabletop hardboard will help. This is durable material, which is designed for the work area.

You can increase the storage system with the help of an additional metal shield, which is attached to the back of the carpentry table. Through holes are made in the supporting boards. After that, bolts are fixed metal base. In the photo of the workbench with your own hands, the sequence of each action is captured.

DIY workbenches photo

The device and purpose of the workbench

A carpenter's workbench is a workbench for manual and machining wooden products. The design and ergonomics of the classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and with maximum convenience perform basic carpentry operations: manufacture wooden parts, assemble structures, cover them with finishing compounds. Traditional carpenter's table designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. For processing longer workpieces, a carpenter's workbench is used.

The table for carpentry consists of a workbench (cover) and a workbench (bearing frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.

There are holes in the table top and wooden vise jaws. They are designed to install clamps and stops of various sections and heights.

Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, a part is placed between them and pressed with a screw vise mechanism. Thus, the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness wood detail, use a stop of the appropriate height, which will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal workbench height?

The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. Optimal Height tables are selected based on the growth of the master. If, standing at the workbench, the palms freely rest against its lid, then the size is chosen correctly. Behind such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are best to make a structure?

The carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to heavy loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are provided not only by the features of fasteners, but also the type of materials used.

Wood is traditionally used to make the base. conifers. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the workbench must be dry (moisture content of about 12%) without knots and other defects.

About making a bench cover

Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to purchase a ready-made glued shield, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the money saved.

When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the lid: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately with a workbench.

Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls

The design of the sidewall consists of two legs (B), tsargs and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through glued spike.

Figured cutouts of the tsarg and supports (detail A) are cut out on band saw followed by edge grinding.

In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, the legs are marked with sockets for the spikes of the prolegs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.

On the outside the legs are countersunk with a conical recess under the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.

Sawing spikes and eyelets

Spikes and eyes are made on a saw machine or manually, guided basic principles creating spiked joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a flawless fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared smooth surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.

Sidewall assembly

Parts A and B are glued into a finished joint. After drying, the excess glue that has come through is carefully cleaned with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is polished.

A hole 19x38 mm is drilled in the center of the glued drawer side under the dowel (L) to fix the cover of the workbench.

Production of prolegs and underbench shelves

According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for prolegs (detail C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As in the case of the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw machine.

The connection of the prolegs with the sidewall is made detachable on a bolt screed with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and a depth of 32 mm is milled on the inside of the prolegs. A hole of 14x95 mm is drilled at the ends of the prolegs. At this stage, it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90 °.

The support strips (details D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws with an offset of 22 mm from the upper edges of the prongs.

According to the dimensions specified in the “General Detailing” drawing, the slats of the bench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersinked at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.

Mounting the bench cover

Non-through holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep for dowels (L) are drilled on the back side of the workbench.

With a d19 mm drill, through holes are made on the lid for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the cover. All holes are chamfered. The stops should easily enter the sockets and not play.

Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure neat holes at a perfect right angle. It is not difficult to make such a guide yourself, having a piece of timber at hand.

Bench vise installation

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to buy a carpentry vice ready-made. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.

Manufacturers of bench vises strive to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we take a look at the wiring diagram. standard designs. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of non-standard bench vise.

Vice jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - cut out of wood hard rock. After that, holes are drilled for guide rods, a lead screw, sockets for bench stops and holes for mounting screws.

The rear jaws of the front and rear vise are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.

Wooden linings (detail K) are cut to fit the vise. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.

Advice! For accurate marking of holes, use the guides themselves, pieces masking tape and soft pencil.

When it comes to carrying out all kinds of plumbing work, for example, grinding, you can’t do without a workbench. The speed and quality of performing various operations when processing parts depends on how well a home-made locksmith's workbench is made.

A locksmith's workbench is a table made of wood or metal on which locksmith work is carried out.

Basically, a workbench can be called a table that has a solid tabletop. A very stable support is made for such a device, since no vibrations should occur when the parts are processed. To strengthen the structure, the countertop is usually closed sheet metal or completely made of thick steel sheet.

The metal tabletop is considered the best option, since such a sheet can withstand enormous loads when the part is bent or straightened with a hammer or table press. Such a countertop will not suffer from an abandoned tool, it is not affected by temperature changes.

To make any part, you must have the appropriate place. One of them is . How to make a locksmith workbench on your own, what materials are needed for this?

To work with wood, a carpenter's workbench is mainly used.

Before starting production, it is necessary to determine for what work it will be intended. To process steel blanks, you will need a homemade workbench made of steel. If the work will be mainly related to wood, then it is necessary to make a carpentry workbench. For small production you will need a universal or combined version.

In garages, only a locksmith's workbench is used. After all, any master and motorist most often encounters metal parts. But a workbench is required not only for technological operations. He has special niches where an auxiliary tool is stored. Where the workbench will be located, there must be an electrical outlet so that it is possible to connect the tool and conduct lighting. If the workbench is made long enough, several people can work on it at the same time.

What may be required for work

For self-manufacturing locksmith workbench will need:

• cabinet where tools are stored;
• steel sheet;
• drill;
• a hammer;
• welding machine;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• hacksaw;
• metal scissors;
• rag.

The frame for the workbench is made of metal pipes.

The basis of such a workbench should be a solid steel frame. It is often made from a round or square section. The tabletop must have a lot of weight, for which it is used sheet metal thickness from 5 to 10 mm.

For installation in a garage in the manufacture of a workbench, you can use a metal corner, suitable profile pipe. The main condition remains one condition - the rigidity of the structure. It must withstand heavy workloads and mechanical stress.

Before assembling the workbench, it is required to make the supporting surface completely flat. If necessary, adjust future design. You can make a tabletop from wooden boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm. It will subsequently be closed with a steel sheet.

When the workbench is intended for particularly precise work, the entire surface of the tabletop is covered with textolite sheets.

In some cases, the workbench is performed especially complex work. The tabletop is covered with a 6 mm steel sheet. On such a device, thin sheets of metal are perfectly processed, extrusion and riveting of parts is done. A powerful vice is installed on this workbench.

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Preparatory operations

For work, it is necessary to design a drawing, where all the dimensions and details of the future fixture will be indicated. Separately, legs and shelves for storing tools will be shown.

A sheet of galvanized steel will be needed for the manufacture of protective sides.

To perform the work you need to have:

• steel corner;
• metallic profile;
• wooden boards with a thickness of more than 5 cm, covered with an antiseptic;
• welding machine;
• locksmith tools.

It will be very good if galvanized sheets are at hand. They are designed to make protective edges that protect against sparks when metal blanks are cleaned.

The best place for the location of the workbench will be the presence of a number of outlets and the ability to connect lighting. The light from the windows should be directed only directly, it should not create a shadow on the place of work.

After determining from the location, you need to clarify the linear dimensions again. The main thing is the height, the convenience in work largely depends on it.

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Workbench table: features

Of course, you can completely make a workbench without reworking any fixtures. But still, you can first consider the option of reworking, for example, a table. You can use some part of it and upgrade. This is very convenient, but not everyone the table will do for such a rework, not every table can make an excellent workplace. For example, the kitchen table is easily loosened, it will require a large number alterations.

A table with cabinets is best suited for such work. Its weak countertop can be replaced with a more massive and durable one. For this purpose, planed bars with a thickness of 60 mm are suitable. The length of the bar is determined by the drawing. To make a countertop, you will need to prepare 30 bars. Each is processed with sandpaper, then they are glued together in the form of a shield.

After the glue dries, the shield is sanded again and reinforced with transverse rails to increase reliability. The tabletop is fixed to the base of the table with steel corners. Before the completion of the workbench is still far away, only its preparation has turned out. Then boxes for tool storage are made, a place is prepared for fixing the vise and installed thrust beam to perform a planing operation on wood parts.

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As mentioned above, it is very important to correctly determine its height before manufacturing a locksmith's workbench. It is enough to go to the table, put your palms on the table top. If the posture is quite comfortable, then the height will be equal to the distance measured from the floor surface to the plane of the palms. Typically, a locksmith's workbench is made at the rate of one worker. The length of the tabletop in most cases is 1.5 m, its width reaches 80 cm.

When choosing a place, you should always try to position the workbench so that there is a light source nearby, electrical outlets are installed.

For the manufacture of countertops, you can use dry raw boards. They should not be wet, otherwise they may lead. Max Thickness boards - 60 mm. Each board is prepared in a certain length, in accordance with the size of the table. In addition, such boards can later be used for the production of shelves where tools will be stored.

To get started, you will need a sheet of stainless steel, usually 2mm thick. It is designed to cover a wooden work surface. To make the sides, the function of which is to protect against flying sparks during the operation of the grinder, three strips are made, the material is the same sheet. One strip is made with a length equal to the size of the countertop, and the remaining two - its width.

This carpentry workbench has a reliable frame, durable working surface and many branches convenient storage tools and fixtures. You will make the main structure with your own hands in two days, and various useful additions will add gradually.

Tools for the job

To process solid wood and sheet materials, you will need a tool:

1. Hacksaw.
2. Electroplaner.
3. The saw is circular.
4. Grinder.
5. Drill and drills.
6. Clamps.
7. Screwdriver.
8. Pencil.
9. Square.
10. Roulette.
11. Brush.

Carpenter's workbench frame

Take a flat pine boards without large knots with a section of 50x150 mm. Dry the raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. The carpentry workbench in question is designed for the comfortable work of a master 170–180 cm tall. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.

Table 1 - list of frame parts

	Name	Finished dimensions, mm			Material	Quantity
	leg detail
	bottom spacer
	Top spacer
	cross prog
	Cover crossbar
	Longitudinal proleg
	Longitudinal side
	Bottom shelf
	Countertop spacer

All elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a board 150 mm wide at once.

file it all wooden blanks along the length, with the exception of spacers: it is more convenient to cut short ones already planed, and long ones should be sawn off later “in place”.

Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade, and divide the result in half. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure that the saw blade is perpendicular. Spread the boards exactly in the middle.

Sharpen the details and sand them with medium grit sandpaper.

File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After cleaning the surfaces of dust, apply glue to the small prong and to the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts with a clamp, wipe off the squeezed out glue and drill holes with a countersink drill.

Fasten the blanks with screws 6.0x70. Prepare the rest of the legs of the carpentry workbench frame.

Bevel the bottom ends to reduce the chance of wood splitting when the workbench is moved.

Prepare for gluing the joints of the legs with the longitudinal prongs. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place the halves of the frame and the longitudinal sides on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.

File the parts and fix with glue and screws.

Assemble the top frame of the carpentry workbench on a flat surface. Fasten the bars with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling pilot holes for them.

Assemble the lower harness of the workbench, using clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.

Put the top frame in place and align the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.

Cut out the lower shelf from sheet material 16 mm thick and fix it on the bars

Workbench for carpentry work

Use sheets of MDF, chipboard or plywood 16–20 mm thick for the workbench cover. Glue the plates in two layers and get a countertop with a thickness of 32–40 mm.

Drawing and arrangement of the cover of the workbench: 1 - edge strips (birch, maple); 2 - working surface (solid fiberboard); 3- carrier plate(chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For the tabletop you can take chipboard sheets left over from unwanted furniture. For example, walls are suitable wardrobe. Take them as a basis and add small pieces so that the lid of the carpentry workbench turns out to be 670x1940 mm in size.

Place narrow slabs closer to back wall and towards the center of the workbench. Large sheets locate in top layer countertops. Glue the cut blanks.

Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Trim the edges by hand circular saw at a distance of 20 mm from the edge.

Align the tabletop with the frame and secure with screws.

Cut the slats for the edge trims. Saw off 45° bevels and cut the planks to length. Put a piece of fiberboard on top of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and fasten it all with clamps.

This makes it easier to attach the pads. Align the ends with the edges of the worktop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench cover. While holding the plank with one hand, drill pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.

Move the fixture to the other side and install the remaining pads. Process the planks with a grinder.

Drill a hole in the corner of the board so that the fiberboard can be easily pushed out of the recess when replacing it.

Clean the surfaces of dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with wood stain. Lay the fiberboard in the recess of the lid. If you are using pieces of material, then fix them with double-sided tape. Install a carpenter's vise on the workbench.

Drawers for storing tools in the carpenter's table

When filling the space under the cover of the carpentry workbench, use the modular principle. Individual blocks are easier to make and more convenient to later change when space is needed for a new tool. There will be a certain cost overrun of the material, but the weight of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with power tools.

Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 - box full extension; 2 - roomy plywood box; 3 - container made of chipboard; 4 - wide box; 5 - compartment for portable tool box; 6 - a place for cases and blanks.

Use drawers from old furniture

Pick up boxes that are suitable in size from an unnecessary desk or chest of drawers.

Sign wooden elements and carefully separate them. Clean the spikes and lugs from the glue.

Cut the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the original bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on the circular saw.

Assemble the box "dry", adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting brackets to accurately assemble right angles.

When the glue dries, sand the corners and sides of the drawer, securing it for ease of use.

Prepare the guide rails and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Block calculation for three drawers

Saw the bottom, top and side panels. Fasten the guide rails with screws.

Assemble the panels into a module and test the movement of the boxes. Place the block inside the workbench, placing props under it.

Drill pilot holes, countersink and tighten self-tapping screws. Fasten the chipboard to the top rails and to the legs of the workbench.

Install the front pads on the drawers. Having marked the location of the case, grab it with one screw. Insert the box into place and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the rest of the screws.

Fasten the remaining overlays - a module with wide drawers ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable drawer

The middle module is made to the full height of the workbench to increase the rigidity of the carpentry workbench. For the case, take a chipboard 16 mm thick and cut out two sides, a bottom and a lid.

Housing of the middle module: 1 - frame diagram; 2- side wall; 3 - bottom and top panels.

Attach the guide rails to the sidewalls, assemble the frame with screws and install close to the right block.

Prepare the details for the drawer.

Drawings of the elements of the box: 1 - long wall; 2 - short wall; 3 - bottom; 4 - front pad; 5 - rail.

With a circular saw, select the grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular disk. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts. Move the rip fence 2 mm and make a trial cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Run the rest of the blanks.

Assemble the module and install rails on the bottom to protect chipboard edges from chipping and providing a more “smooth” ride.

Fasten front panel screws and put the box back in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The arrangement of the housings of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The drawer placed on roller guides is manufactured taking into account the mounting clearance, so its width will be less inner size housings by 26 mm (for common rails with a thickness of 12 mm).

The device of the module and the details of the box: 1 - assembly diagram; 2 - back and front walls; 3 - front panel; 4 - bottom; 5 - side walls.

Before assembling the case, fasten restrictive wooden rails and metal rails to the sides.

Scheme of mounting guides on the walls of the case.

Fix the finished module under the cover of the workbench.

To install the rails on the drawer, unsnap the latches and pull out the small rails.

Fasten the pieces to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide yourself based on the specific design and a gap of 10 mm between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.

Pull out the middle rails as far as they will go.

Insert both rails at the same time, holding the middle rails with your fingers. If the box "went" tight, take it out and try again.

Put the front cover in place.

How to make a drawer for a carpentry workbench from plywood

Saw the blanks of the box body from 10 mm plywood, and for the bottom take a sheet 5 mm thick.

Scheme of cutting parts for two plywood boxes: 1 - front panel; 2 - back insert; 3 - side wall; 4 - front insert.

Process the blanks with a grinder.

Make grooves for the plywood bottom in the side walls, back and front liner. Remove burrs with sandpaper.

Glue and screw the parts of the front and back walls with screws.

Apply glue to the joints and into the groove.

Assemble the structure using corners and clamps.

Fasten the parts with screws, drilling pilot holes.

Assemble the second plywood box with your own hands.

Install a panel on the back wall of the carpentry workbench to increase the rigidity of the structure and to accommodate hand tools.

Cover finishing composition boxes and cut ends of particle boards.

Power up your DIY workbench and start filling containers with tools.