Preparation of compost in plastic bags. Making compost in garbage bags. How and why water compost

liquid green manure

The fastest way to dispose of grass can be liquid green fertilizer. Any weed is suitable for its preparation, even with roots and seeds. Tall grass is best shredded with a knife or hedge trimmer for faster decay, although this is not necessary. Weeds must be folded into a container and filled with water so that it completely covers the grass. If there is no lid, the container should be closed with a piece of polyethylene, and then tied around the top edge with a cord or elastic band. It is required to make several small holes in the film through which the evolved gas will escape.

It is highly desirable to mix the resulting mass every day for uniform rotting of the grass. To minimise bad smell, a handful of dust can be poured onto the surface of the water. After 10-14 days, valuable fertilizer will be ready. It is better to use it in a diluted form (a liter of infusion in a bucket of water) so as not to burn the roots of plants.

Especially valuable herbs for obtaining liquid green manure are nettle, plantain, gout, all green manure, but any weeds growing on your site are also perfect. To prepare the infusion, it is better to use plastic utensils as the metal container may react with the contents. Rotting grass can be used as mulch or transferred to a compost heap.

Compost

Weeds, stems are suitable for making compost horticultural crops, fruit and vegetable peel, fruit cores, etc. Layers of plant waste should alternate with layers of earth. It is not recommended to add meat waste and boiled vegetables to the compost, because. fertilizer can become moldy, and the mold will not benefit the plants. If you do not plan to use EM preparations, then you should also not add weeds with mature seeds to the compost. As you grow compost heap should be well watered and covered plastic wrap or cardboard for faster rotting grass. New layers of grass and earth must be laid on top of this cover. On the next year The compost can be planted in holes when planting or used as mulch.

The use of EM preparations that contain live microorganisms that enrich the soil and destroy pathogenic fungi dramatically increases the benefits of compost and accelerates its maturation. In Russia, Baikal-EM-1 is very popular. To prepare the drug, dissolve 4 tbsp in a 3-liter jar of warm spring or boiled water. old jam or honey, and then add a bottle of concentrate with a capacity of 40 ml. The container must be filled to the very top so that the air gap is minimal. The jar should be closed with a plastic lid and left in a warm, dark place for 4-7 days. Starting from the 3rd day, the lid must be removed and the solution mixed gently. The finished product has a slight pleasant smell of kvass.

For use in compost, 8 tablespoons of the drug should be diluted in a bucket warm water and leave in the sun for 3-4 hours to activate the bacteria. After that, the compost heap should be thoroughly wetted with water for irrigation and the working solution of Baikal should be added, then covered for maturation. The bacteria contained in the preparation destroy even wheatgrass seeds, so a mature weed can be added to the compost. Fertilizer will be ready in 3-4 months.

quick compost

For cooking quick compost you need to put the plucked weeds in a plastic bag, add a couple of shovels of earth and several liters of water. The bag should be tied well and left in the sun. After 10-14 days, the compost will be ready. Adding a working solution of EM preparations will increase the benefits of the fertilizer and speed up its readiness.

Material prepared by: Nadezhda Zimina, gardener with 24 years of experience, process engineer

One of the most common and affordable fertilizers for the garden and vegetable garden is compost is a substrate obtained from organic waste and tops of cultivated plants. In fact, it is free, but in order to prepare it, it will take time and effort.

Everyone can make compost with their own hands, because any household produces a lot of organic waste, and in any garden you can always collect a large amount of tops and weeds that will be recycled. Rational owners dispose of all this through composting, getting a natural organic fertilizer rich in elements necessary for the qualitative development of plants.

The process of turning grass and household waste in the most useful top dressing can be divided into three stages:

Decomposition. At this stage, the source material is actively heated inside the heap, gradually changing its structure, and enriching itself with useful substances. Ultimately, the transformation leads to the fact that various beneficial microorganisms appear in the compost, including fungi, as well as earthworms- the most important accelerator for the processing of organic residues into fertilizer.
Humus formation. At this stage, good aeration of the pile is very important, since without access required amount oxygen microorganisms are killed. For forced aeration, the compost can be mixed by hand, with a fork or shovel.
Mineralization. At this stage, nitrogenous compounds decompose to the protoplasm of bacteria and nitrogen, and humic substances pass into mineral forms. This is the final phase in waste composting. The mineralization of the entire volume of the substrate reaches its maximum values after 10-12 months of curing the pile at favorable conditions.

What is compost made of

diagram and composition of a typical compost heap

There are a lot of recipes for making this fertilizer. There are both completely natural substrates, and with the addition of mineral fertilizers (agrochemicals), which compensate for the lack of various chemical elements. Indeed, organic waste contains large amounts of nitrogen, and potassium and phosphorus occupy only a small fraction of the total composition. To prepare the right compost, it is necessary that their number is balanced in the right proportions. Depending on the source material, the amount and composition of additives varies significantly. This has spawned many compost recipes and below are the most popular and effective ones.

Classical

This type of compost is very easy to make and quite effective to use. It consists of simple and affordable components. Its only disadvantage can be considered a long ripening period (1-2 years). So, it includes:

(branches, tops, algae) - the first layer (20 cm);
- the second layer (10 cm);
Ground limestone (or) - the third layer (0.5 cm).

The layers are alternated until the collar reaches a height of 1.5 m.

Manure-superphosphate

This compost is one of those whose composition is additionally enriched with chemicals. In this case, which throughout the entire ripening time saturates the substrate with phosphorite compounds. Phosphorus also helps retain nitrogen in the fertilizer, as it binds the non-volatile nitrogen forms of ammonium carbonate and free ammonia from manure, preventing them from turning into volatile ammonia that removes nitrogen from the substrate. Making compost according to this recipe is not difficult.

Components are bookmarked in the following order:

Garden soil - the first layer (10 cm);
Manure mixed with simple superphosphate in a ratio (100: 2) - the second layer (10 cm).

This substrate belongs to fast composts, as it matures in 2-3 months, and if it is laid in the spring, in the first warm days(when night frosts stop), then at the end of June they can already be fed and mulched trunk circles.

Peat

Weeds without seeds - 100 kg;
dried - 400 kg;
Ammonium sulfate (NH4) 2SO4) - 350 g;
Sodium nitrate (NaNO3) - 50-70 g;
Potassium phosphorus - 50 g.

When using this composting method, first of all, it is necessary to saturate the peat with mineral fertilizers, thoroughly mixing all the components. After that, a "layer cake" from organic matter is prepared as follows - a thin layer of garden soil is laid on a flat area, on which 40 cm of peat is poured. A layer of finely chopped branches (not longer than 5-7 cm), herbs and tops is laid on it. The layers should be well compacted so that part of the green mass is immersed in the peat cushion, then the composting process will go faster.

based fertilizer this component contains a large amount of nitrogen in its composition, which makes it an excellent pre-sowing premix. Also, peat-manure compost perfectly restores the structure of the soil, and normalizes its acidity.

Compost for mushrooms

Dry straw - 100 kg;
Water (how much is needed to abundantly moisten the heap);
liquid - 100 kg;
- 50 kg;
Gypsum - 5 kg;
Chalk - 3 kg.

This type of compost is not a top dressing for plants, and is used as an independent soil for growing mushrooms. It is produced traditionally, laying all the components in layers and spilling water, and then let it ripen, stirring occasionally, to a state of a homogeneous crumbly mass.

For maturation various kinds composts may require a different amount of time - from 3 months to two years. The timing depends on the composition of the pile, on the conditions in which it is composted, and on the effect of various additives that are poured over the pile to speed up the overripe processes.

Video: how to make the right compost?

How and why is compost watered?

Various liquids that moisten and shed piles contribute to faster compost formation and improve its properties. They are of both natural and artificial origin, and are a kind of catalysts that contribute to the speedy heating of this biological firebox. by the most a simple means, which is used to speed up composting is plain water. She is watered with a collar throughout the entire period of storage. It helps to soften all the elements of the substrate, which helps to accelerate the processes of decay, so it is advisable to water the pile with water at least once a week.

To quickly prepare compost, various organic catalysts are often used. For example, a solution of sugar and, which is abundantly poured over a newly formed collar. Such a mixture helps to quickly heat up the compost heap, and the speedy processing of organic matter.

A cheaper starting solution for the first stage of composting at home is. To prepare it, you need to pour ¾ buckets of nettles with warm water, add a package of dry yeast to it, and leave this brew in a warm place for 3-5 days. After that, only the formed compost pile is watered with this composition.

The fastest accelerators that allow you to get mature compost in a short time are various biostimulants. For example, drugs such as (according to the instructions), TAMIR (10 ml per 1 liter of water).

Composters

Compost as a fertilizer centuries of history Therefore, many methods and devices have been developed for its storage. Some gardeners compost in pits, others form piles and heaps, and there are those who prefer special containers, both homemade and purchased. The most popular of them will be discussed below.

Purchased composter

This is the simplest and most aesthetic solution to the problem of storing organic residues on the site. But not the cheapest - their cost ranges from 2300 to 30,000 rubles. The modern industry offers gardeners many options for these designs to choose from. The simplest are boxes made of plastic, less often made of wood, the main function of which is to prevent organic compost from crumbling. But there are also entire local organic processing stations that can independently maintain the temperature inside the tank, and are equipped with a control panel.

DIY composter

To create the perfect substrate, it is absolutely not necessary to buy miracles modern technology. You can also make a composter yourself. It can be portable and stationary. In the second case, to begin with, the perimeter of the future container is drawn, and high stakes are driven in at the corners, taking into account that a part of the column at least 150 cm high rises above the ground. Then the spans are clogged with flat boards, which should not fit snugly against each other, there should be a distance of at least 10 cm between their rows.

Video: do-it-yourself compost house

Video: a simple do-it-yourself grid composter

Compost in bags

This method of composting waste is used when there is little space on the site. First you need to stock up on thick black plastic bags. Then, from the developed plot of land, upper layer turf, which is placed in bags. Finely chopped weeds are added, watered with bio-humus, or any other bio-stimulant, and the bags are tightly sealed with tape. After this procedure, you can forget about them for several months. By opening the bags after the required amount of time has elapsed, it will be possible to make sure that excellent garden compost can be prepared in this way.

10 rules for compost

Compost shouldn't smell bad. If a stench appears, then the decomposition processes are going wrong, the whole mass is rotting, and organic compost become a pile of rotting residue rather than fine manure. In order not to encounter this problem, it is necessary to correctly alternate the layers of organic matter when laying. A layer of tops or grass must be sprinkled with earth or manure, then the ammonia formed during fermentation will be processed into nitrogen, and not leave the heap in the form of a gas with an unpleasant odor.
Do not place composters in the garden. Practical experience It has been proven by many amateur gardeners that the roots of all nearby plants will quickly change the direction of their growth towards the heap with a nutrient mixture, and will pump out all the useful substances from it with all their might. If the container with processed garden compost located under the crowns of trees, you can block the path of the roots by lining the bottom of the box with parchment paper, or more radically by concreted its base.
Making compost at the cottage- one of the most reasonable and easy ways to dispose of the mass unnecessary waste, including old clothes, fur, feathers, meat bones, fish scales, banana skins- everything that has an organic nature of origin is suitable for the manufacture of this fertilizer.

The compost must be covered and this should be done not only when winter comes, but throughout the year. In composters, a special lid is provided for this, and home-made heaps are covered with a film, laying a sufficiently thick layer of insulation under it (from sawdust or from leaves).
Be sure to grind everything What are you composting. This can be done with your own hands, using a knife or a special chopper in the form of a vertical cleaver with a long handle. There are also industrial options, for example, special drums that not only cut the raw material into small fragments, but also mix it well.
Proper compost works like a sponge when squeezed in the palm of your hand.- elastically restores its shape, and does not release absorbed moisture. If the water has flowed, then the substrate is supersaturated with liquid, and it must be opened to dry, removing the covering material and thoroughly mixing. You can also add a dry fraction of manure, peat, or garden soil.
Greens before preparing compost in the country should be slightly dried. This technique allows you to avoid the souring of the compost, since fresh grass and tops in large quantities do not rot, but sour.
In autumn, it is necessary to completely shovel the compost. Moreover, the amount of work in this case is to be serious - it is necessary to literally turn the pile upside down, making the bottom layer its "roof", and the top one - the "floor".
If you want to get "quick compost" - make it from leaves, they are processed the fastest. A pile of this material laid in autumn with additions in the form of organic matter and garden soil, watered with biostimulants, sprinkled with a layer of soil and covered with a black film, has time to almost completely overwinter, and in the spring, in mid-May, it can already be partially used as a fertilizer. Also, to speed up the process, it is advisable to put “sourdough” from the old compost into the young compost.
collar dimensions, with any composting methods have great importance. The final height of the pile cannot be less than 1.5 meters, the width is 1-1.5 meters (otherwise it will be inconvenient to mix the contents), the length is not limited.

You should definitely pay attention to the fact that the final height of the heap is measured no earlier than 1-2 months after its laying, since it settles significantly throughout its formation.

How to use compost?

This excellent fertilizer will find its application both in the garden and in the garden. Most often it is used immediately after maturation. Consider the rules for making compost based on the season.

spring

The following compost rates apply:

Continuous application -1 bucket (10 l) per 1 sq. m.
In poor and depleted soils, a larger amount of this fertilizer is applied, about 15 liters per 1 square meter.
In the greenhouse - 1-1.5 buckets for fertilizing the surface layer of the earth, or a layer of at least 25 cm as a warming bedding under the fertile soil layer.

Summer

At this time of the year, it is time for planned feeding of plantings. Compost is good for fertilizing plants in summer. It can be used in its natural form (as a mulch, as a nutrient substrate), and as a "compost tea".

Also, the use of compost in summer protects plants, especially bulbs, from various pests. Enough to cover the bed thin layer, and the root part of the plants will not be damaged by pests. At the end of the season, when digging the site, the remains of the substrate will pass into the soil, and significantly enrich its composition.

autumn

end of the season - best time for introducing fresh compost into the soil. During the winter, it will be completely processed, and by spring a high-quality fertile layer will ripen on the site. Compost is applied in the same doses as manure, about 1-2 buckets per 1 sq. m.

A couple of bags of this humus can be set aside in a cold basement for spring planting seedlings. Before bagging, the compost must be sieved to remove earthworms from it, whose mucus can have an overwhelming effect on seedlings.

Video: do-it-yourself compost heap

Many summer residents understand that if you annually operate a plot for growing vegetables and fruit crops and do not apply organic fertilizers, then very soon the fertility of the soil will dry up. About how to make compost with your own hands and fertilize them in the country cultivated plants will be discussed in this article.

What is compost and its benefits for plants

To begin with, it is important to understand what compost is and how to make it in order to make a good fertilizer. Compost is one of the types of organic fertilizers, which is obtained as a result of decomposition weeds, residuals plant origin, from fallen leaves, kitchen waste and manure under aerobic conditions (using oxygen). The decomposition of organic matter occurs as a result of the activity of bacteria, and for this it is necessary that this biomass has a moisture content of 45-70%, and the temperature of the medium varies within 28-35°C. Along with bacteria, various insects and worms take part in the decomposition process. As a result of their vital activity, additional energy is generated, which contributes to a better decomposition of biomass.

The materials used to make compost require shredding. Large fragments decompose over a longer time. In terms of value, rotted plant residues are in no way inferior to humus and have the following advantages and disadvantages:

in the composition of compost are presented in desired proportion macro- and microelements for plant nutrition;
barely hitting the soil, it takes part in metabolic processes, making up for the lack of nutrients;
it combines with the soil and becomes its integral part;
after irrigation and as a result of showers, nutrients do not pass into the deep layers of the soil, as with mineral fertilizers, but remain in the soil horizon;
it easily passes water and air, which is very important for the normal growth of plants;
as part of this organic fertilizer in in large numbers humus is present, due to which soil fertility increases;
overdose of plants with this fertilizer is impossible, since all the constituent parts are of natural origin;
with natural decomposition, compost does not clog the soil with toxins;
of the entire list of organic fertilizers, it is the most affordable and cheapest.

No appreciable shortcomings were found in the compost, with the exception of an unpleasant odor, which may accompany the process of decomposition of plant residues. In addition, flies, ants and other insects will always indicate their presence around the compost heap. But this problem is solved by arranging a door near the box and placing it in the most remote place of the site.

Factors affecting the decomposition of organic matter

The process of creating organic fertilizer from food waste and cut grass is divided into 3 stages: Decomposition. The components of the mixture are heated inside the heap, changing their structure. Beneficial microorganisms appear in the resulting product, including fungi, as well as earthworms, which contribute to the acceleration of the processing of organic matter into fertilizer. Humus formation. At this stage, it is important to supply the collar with oxygen, without which the microorganisms cannot breathe. Therefore, the shoulder should be shoveled several times, moving its outer layers inward and vice versa. Mineralization. Nitrogenous compounds decompose to bacterial protoplasm and nitrogen, and humus passes into a mineral form. After this stage, it can be used for its intended purpose. It will take approximately 10-12 months to complete all stages in favorable conditions.

Choosing a location for the composter

A compost heap, pit or box is best placed in the far corner of the garden so that they do not fall on Sun rays. If the composition for the future fertilizer is intensively illuminated by the sun, the process of its preparation will be greatly delayed. Do not set up the composter next to apple trees or other trees - their roots will sprout into a pile and pump out all the nutrients from the pile.

Composter device

If you are thinking about how to prepare compost in the country, then you should familiarize yourself with the device of the composter. Proper organization the decomposition process is the key to the rapid production of high-quality organic matter. It is not difficult to make it, following the recommendations. Composting can be done in a compost heap and in a bin. The first way is called classical. The outer frame of the compost heap is made of mesh, which allows air and moisture to pass through. If you add to it special additives, it matures in 9 months. The material for the manufacture of the box can be anything:

grid;
wooden pallets;
slate;
boards.

On the market you can buy ready-to-use plastic containers. The volume of containers is selected from 1 m³. If the capacity is less, the process of decomposition of organic matter will noticeably slow down.

Layering rules

It is necessary to lay materials in such a way that soft and wet layers are interspersed with hard and dry layers. This provides an influx of oxygen, which will accelerate the decomposition process. Nitrogen and carbon components decompose differently. Nitrogenous decompose quickly, absorbing a lot of oxygen and releasing heat. And carbonaceous substances have a loose composition, are rich in oxygen and, when decomposed, consume nitrogen. If you put an equal amount of these components into the composter, you can achieve the perfect balance. Layers with a thickness of 15-20 cm should be laid alternately and mixed well, ensuring their contact with each other. Can be distributed evenly in a pile chicken manure, fresh manure or a special stimulant to accelerate the maturation of the compost.

A good organic fertilizer is obtained when the initial nitrogen and carbon components are taken in equal amounts. It is advisable to sprinkle the first layer of ingredients with a layer of earth mixed with lime.

What can and cannot be composted

Those people who believe that compost is just a bunch of rotting plant debris in the back of the garden, where you can throw everything, are wrong. This is not so, to get the right fertilizer, you need to prepare it according to certain rules. The following components are added to the composition:

green grass, hay and straw;
green parts of plants and individual weeds;
small branches, pieces of wood and sawdust;
food plant residues;
manure of cattle, sheep, goats and bird droppings;
chalk, ash, egg shells;
special composting accelerators.

There are a number of ingredients that should not be put in compost pit:

food residues of animal origin, as they stimulate the process of decay with the release of an unpleasant odor;
faeces of carnivores and humans, which may contain worm eggs;
fabric pieces, coated glossy paper, rubber scraps, stones;
any chemicals;
weeds that produce seeds long time retaining germination, as well as underground parts of rhizome and root plants that retain their germination;
plant residues inhabited by pests and affected by fungal diseases.

Ways to accelerate ripening and hot cooking

The composting process can take from 4 months to 2.5 years, the time required for maturation depends on the size of the components and the conditions created.

Important! The temperature inside the pyramid must be brought to 60 degrees or more. Heat accelerates the course of decomposition of organic matter and destroys weed seeds, larvae of harmful insects.

For fast food nutritional composition it is better to apply the following actions:

provide a pile (pit) with moisture and air;
add a special accelerator (Baikal-Em, Unique-S) or fresh manure to the water for irrigation;
shoveling layers to improve the supply of heaps with oxygen;
warming the heap in winter to extend the period of active fermentation;
watering with herbal infusion, consisting of 5 parts of chopped grass, 2 parts of chicken manure and 20 parts of water;
watering the burt with yeast infusion;
landing on a pile of zucchini and pumpkins, the root secretions of which contribute to the rapid decomposition of organic residues;
the use of California worms in the processing of organic residues, which pass organic matter through their digestive tract and as a result biohumus is obtained.

There is another cooking method - hot composting, thanks to which the fermentation process takes place in a short time. This method also has other advantages:

weed seeds lose their germination;
pathogenic microorganisms die;
the substance has a fine fraction.

A variation of hot composting is the Berkeley method, thanks to which the time for processing organic matter is reduced to 18 days. When using this method, the following requirements must be met:

the temperature in the center of the heap should be at the level of 55-65 degrees;
the ratio of carbon to nitrogen in the components of the substrate should be 30:1;
the height of the pile is brought to one and a half meters;
all components must be crushed;
layers are shoveled 7 times and mixed well.

The algorithm of actions for the 18-day Berkeley method is very simple:

form a compost heap;
4 days do not touch it;
then within 2 weeks of days turn it over every other day.

The compost is of high quality, dark brown color, with a good smell.

Important! If you notice that earthworms crawl into the prepared compost, it means that it has finally matured and contains a lot of nutrients.

Types and manufacturing technology on the site

The compost is ready for use when it has fully matured. A well-matured material does not require additional application of mineral or other fertilizers and is itself capable of providing a decent and environmentally friendly harvest. For the effective use of organic fertilizer from plant residues, you need to know how to determine its ripeness. The following are the main signs indicating that the composition has matured and is ready for use:

the material has a homogeneous structure and it is impossible to see the individual components;
after overheating, the compost has a loose and loose consistency;
compost has acquired a dark brown color;
the finished product has the smell of wet soil.

Ripe compost looks like black soil with loose and porous composition.

There are many recipes for the preparation of this organic fertilizer. Some of them involve the use of only natural ingredients, in other cases mineral fertilizers are added to the organic matter - after all, the plant components contain enough nitrogen, and phosphorus and potassium are present in small quantities. To make the right compost, you need to achieve the right balance of these nutrients. Depending on the starting materials used, the list and number of additives can vary greatly. Below are the most common and efficient technologies making compost.

Classic based on herbs and food waste

This type is easy to manufacture, while being effective in use. Classic compost is prepared from simple and affordable components, among which it should be noted:

green mass, consisting of tops, branches and algae - it makes up the first layer (20 cm);
cattle manure - the second layer (10 cm);
dolomite flour or crushed limestone - the third layer (0.5 cm).

Layers should be alternated until the height of the collar reaches 1.5 meters in height. This is how this type of compost should be made, the only drawback of which is a one-year or even two-year aging period. The finished product can be used on the site.

With manure and superphosphate

This composition, as its name implies, is prepared using superphosphate, which enriches the substrate with phosphorus. Phosphorus helps retain nitrogen by binding the ammonia in manure. Making such compost in the country is not difficult. This type of compost consists of the following components:

land from the garden (10 cm);
manure mixed with superphosphate in a ratio of 50:1 (10 cm).

This method is relatively fast and is suitable for maturation in 3 months. If the ingredients are bookmarked in the spring, then in early July, potatoes are already fed with ready-made humus and raspberries are mulched.

With the addition of bird droppings

Chicken manure is a very valuable fertilizer, but in its pure form it is not suitable for use, as it can burn the plant. The best way its use - bookmark in the compost. To obtain it, the following ingredients are mixed:

a layer of bird droppings 20-25 cm thick;
straw layer - 5-10 cm;
a layer of sawdust - 5-10 cm;
the top layer should consist of a layer of peat - 10-20 cm.

If you cover the compost pit with a film, then there will be no unpleasant smell and the product will ripen in 2 months.

In addition to the above components, compost can be enriched with the following ingredients:

superphosphate;
wood ash;
potassium salt;
ammonium nitrate.

Before laying the compost with your own hands, straw and branches are laid at the bottom of the pit as drainage. Two weeks after laying the top layer, the substrate is subjected to shoveling. Thanks to this procedure, all layers ripen at the same time. For application, you can dilute the finished compost in water or apply it dry.

Based on peat

With this method, you need to saturate the peat with mineral fertilizers, mixing everything well. The ingredients of such compost should be the following substances:

weeds free from seeds - 100 kg;
dry peat - 200 kg;
ammonium sulfate - 350 g;
sodium nitrate - 50-70 g;
potassium salt - 50 g.

Compost is prepared as follows:

on a flat area, a small layer of garden soil is poured;
peat is poured in the second layer (40 cm);
a layer of chopped branches, tops and grass is placed on the peat.

All layers need to be compacted a little, then ripening will be faster. Thus, humus can be made from grass, peat and mineral fertilizers.

For champignons

When preparing compost for growing mushrooms, you need to take the following components in given quantities:

dry straw - 100 kg;
liquid chicken manure - 100 kg;
mullein, in the amount of 50 kg;
gypsum - 5 kg;
chalk - 3 kg;
water, to give proper moisture to the substrate.

Such compost is not used for top dressing, it is used as soil for the cultivation of mushrooms. The ingredients are laid in layers, pouring water. The ripening period can be several months. During this time, the filled collar must be subjected to 4-5 times perebivka. A sign of the ripeness of compost humus is the state of a homogeneous mass of all components of the substrate.

How to cook in bags

Compost in bags is prepared when there is not enough space in the country. Let's try to figure out how to quickly make compost in bags and how to shed it to speed up maturation:

first you need to buy thick black plastic bags;
the turf is removed from the site, putting it in bags;
crushed weeds are added to the bag;
the mixture is spilled with biohumus or other biostimulant;
sealed with tape.

After a few months, the compost will finally ripen, it can be used to fertilize vegetable beds.

Production in boxes

Many devices have been developed for the storage of biofeeds for plants. People prepare compost in a barrel, pit, pile, heap and box. You can buy boxes or make your own. They are mobile and stationary. AT stationary version first, the perimeter of the planned capacity is marked and stakes 1.5 meters high are driven in in the corners. Then the spans are sewn up with boards, between which gaps are left.

Cooking technology at home

Compost can be made in slow and fast ways. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To quickly prepare compost, you need to work according to the following algorithm:

First of all, we make a container where organic residues will be stored. This may be a well-ventilated box, pit or pile with access to the contents.
At the bottom of the tank we make drainage from a layer of hay, straw, branches.
The components are laid in layers and without compaction, so as to ensure the alternation of wet waste with dry, solid components with soft ones.
To speed up the process, special organic decomposition accelerators can be added to the compost in layers: nitrogen additives, residues leguminous plants, cattle manure.
To support process temperature in pile and create optimal conditions for useful microflora, you need to cover the pile with an old carpet or oilcloth.
Every month it is required to shovel the compost heap so that its outer layers fall inside, and the inner ones are on top and on the side.
In the summer heat, the contents are lightly sprinkled with water to maintain optimal technological humidity.

If you were able to make the container correctly and carried out composting according to the technology, then you will receive the finished product in 3-5 months.

If you set out to make the right compost from grass or branches, you should be aware that this process will be very long, but in the end you will get a quality product. You need to prepare the components for composting, put them in a pit and wait for 2 years. So, let's look at the technology of preparing a "food additive" for plants in a slow way:

we dig a wide hole on an elevated site with a depth of 60 cm;
inside the pit we lay chopped tree branches, bark, wood particles, grass;
on top of the heap we fall asleep with a layer of soil and wait for 2 years.

An effective organic fertilizer will be ready for use in 2 years.

Use of organic fertilizer

Ripe compost is suitable for any crops with the same application rates as manure (15-20 kg per 1 m²). Methods can be very different:

in the fall for the main tillage;
under spring plowing;
before planting potatoes;
add to the wells when planting seedlings;
spring and summer as a mulching material.

In spring and summer, ready-made compost is scattered on the soil and dug up to a shallow depth.

Rigorously Following simple rules and country councils, on the basis of which this useful organic matter is prepared annually at home, you can also properly make compost in the country with your own hands and fertilize the soil to increase crop yields and improve fruit quality.

Compost is an effective organic fertilizer that is great for just about anything. horticultural crops. Making compost in bags is within the power of any gardener and gardener.

This method uses bags instead of compost pits and boasts the following benefits:

Saving time. Instead of a couple of years, you will have finished compost in a couple of months.
Space saving. Bags take up much less space than compost heaps. In addition, they can be easily moved from place to place if necessary.
Economy of forces. While the compost in the pit needs to be turned over constantly, the compost in the bags can be left untouched at all until ready.
The purity of the finished product. The compost heap often contains insects, plant seeds and other undesirable ingredients that cannot get into the sacks.

If we talk about the shortcomings, then they can only be attributed to the financial costs of special bags. But they are relatively inexpensive, and they do not need to be changed every season.

It should also be noted that all organics must be put into bags at the same time, and not added gradually.

DIY compost: cooking technology

To make a quick compost, you will need organic waste, bags and a couple of other ingredients.

Of course, you can take black plastic bag for garbage, but it is unlikely to serve you more than once, and may break before the compost is ready. Therefore, it is better to purchase slightly more expensive, but also more reliable bags for construction waste.

As a raw material for compost, you can use any waste of plant origin:

cut grass;
rotten fruits and vegetables;
dry branches.

The main thing is that the garbage quickly rots, so you should not use potato tops, citrus peels or green leaves.

Also, do not put too much nitrogen-containing plant residues in bags. Then the finished compost will have a sharp unpleasant odor.

And in no case use the remains of diseased plants, as well as synthetic materials such as polyethylene or plastic.

To speed up the composting process, you can add a liter of wood ash and a little ammonium nitrate to the bags. Biohumus can also be added, but this is not necessary.

Not all gardeners are willing to invest time and effort into preparing quick compost, but in some cases it can become almost the only alternative to saturate the soil with organic matter in the spring months (for example, you just bought a plot and want to use it under garden).

In addition, by learning the basic principles of making quick compost, you will also learn how to stack your compost heaps more efficiently, whether you need the finished product in two weeks or six months. leaving the resulting pile for a period of 6 to 12 months. After that, its contents are usually ready for direct application to garden soil (you can read about which materials can be added to compost and which ones are undesirable).

Many vegetable growers use a modified version of this familiar technology - they simply turn the compost heaps every couple of weeks or months to speed up the process of decomposition of its components.

Thanks to this, they get high-quality compost with minimal effort. The disadvantages of such rapid composting include the fact that rainfall will wash out some of the useful substances from the finished fertilizer, and the rhizomes of weeds and their seeds will not be completely neutralized - after all, the temperature inside the heap does not reach such high values as with long exposure.

However, there are more progressive method fast composting, devoid of almost all of the above disadvantages. What are its pros and cons?

Pros:

you will get mature compost in just 14-21 days;
he will be richer nutrients than regular "quick" compost;
it will have relatively few viable roots and weed seeds.

Minuses:

additional labor costs will be required from you;
you will need a lot of organic material at once.

How to prepare material for quick compost

If there is any secret to making quick compost, it is the careful grinding of carbon-containing components - fallen leaves, straw, hay, paper, cardboard.

This facilitates the access of microbes to materials, provides a more uniform distribution of air and moisture throughout the volume of the heap. At the same time, it does not matter at all how exactly the materials are shredded - manually, using a rotary lawn mower or garden shredder, the main thing is the result.

If you don't have a garden shredder at your disposal, try to cut the materials into lengths of 1 to 4 centimeters using a garden pruner.

How to Balance the Ingredients for Quick Compost

For fast composting great value has a choice of the correct ratio of carbon- and nitrogen-containing materials.

Compost bacteria need both nitrogen and carbon to function properly.

The first is necessary for them to produce energy, the second - for the synthesis of proteins. For one part of the nitrogen they consume, they must also absorb about 30 parts of carbon in one form or another.

So in order for compost dwellers to work as efficiently as possible, you should create a compost heap that has about 30 parts of carbon components to one part of nitrogen.

For example, for every 30 cm layer of fallen leaves or hay, you should put a 1 cm layer of mullein or any other type of manure.

Building a quick compost heap

The original method calls for the nitrogen and carbon materials to be layered, but some growers prefer to mix them. It is difficult to say which of the options is better, but I like the second one more, so in this article I will consider it.

Once you've crushed all the materials, mix them into one big pile. If the future compost turned out to be dry to the touch, then add water to it and mix thoroughly and evenly again.

The minimum size of your pile should be 1 meter wide and 1 meter high. But in order for its contents to warm up better, try to make it from 1.2 to 1.5 meters in each dimension. Cover the compost with a thick film or pieces of roofing material - if you did everything right, then after 24 hours the temperature inside the heap should increase significantly. To test this, remove a handful of material from its center. It should be warmer and slightly darker than at the edges of the pile.

After a couple of days, the compost heap needs to be shoveled for the first time.

In the future, the procedure will have to be repeated every 2-3 days to ensure uniform processing of the contents of the heap by bacteria. In this case, after a week, its contents will begin to resemble ready-made compost, by the end of the second week it will reach the condition when it can already be used to fertilize the soil on the site. In general, it is considered that the compost is ready if the temperature in the middle of the compost heap has fallen below +37 degrees.

I suggest watching a short video about ways to accelerate the maturation of a compost heap.

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