Stains and impregnations for wood, antiseptics are used to protect wood from negative external influences. Thanks to these compositions, it is possible to extend the life of structures and wood products and improve aesthetic characteristics.

What is a wood preservative

Antiseptics are designed to fight fungus, insects and germs. The fungus destroys the wood and stains it in an unpleasant bluish-green, gray, white or black color. Mold that forms on the surface wooden structures and products, also does not add to their attractiveness.

The use of antiseptics - prophylactic to protect the tree, which helps protect the wood from the appearance of signs of biological damage. Antiseptics depending on chemical composition are divided into the following types:

• water-soluble - they penetrate well into the structure of wood, do not interfere with the penetration of air, are intended for internal use;
• based on organic solvents - moisture resistant formulations deep penetration. Scope - processing of external structures and interior work;
• oil-based - form a protective film on the surface, which prevents the penetration of moisture necessary for the vital activity of microorganisms and insects. Used for structures exposed to ground water, moisture, precipitation. Usually have a pungent odor;
• combined - in addition to antiseptic properties, they have fire retardant properties, due to which they increase the fire resistance of wood or are able to paint the material in a certain color.

When choosing an antiseptic, it is necessary to take into account the place and features of the operation of structures or products.

Use of antiseptics for interior work

On the internal surfaces organic and water-soluble antiseptics are used, they dry quickly and do not contain substances harmful to human health. These compounds are resistant and reliably protect against fungal or mold infections and insects. Application area: window frames, walls, flooring, logs, attic floors, stairs, etc.

The use of antiseptics for external work

To protect external surfaces, it is better to use oil-based and organic-based antiseptics. They form a protective film on the surface that does not collapse under the influence of water, sun rays, blue and biolesions. Hard-to-reach structures - logs, subfloor, beams of interfloor and attic floors, lower crowns wooden houses it is necessary to treat with strong antiseptic agents with protection efficiency for more than 30 years. They penetrate deep inside, are not washed out and have an increased concentration of active substances.

Preservative antiseptics

Separately, it is necessary to pay attention to preservative antiseptics. They are used at the stages of construction, for example, during the procurement of material (brought and left until spring) or when work is temporarily suspended (shrinkage of the log house). Such compositions do not change the color and properties of the wood and effectively protect it for a long time.

Antiseptics are able not only to protect clean, uninfected lumber, but also to deal with the consequences of damage by microorganisms and insects. Used to treat affected surfaces special formulations, differing in their effectiveness, which is what you need to pay attention to when choosing an antiseptic.

When choosing an antiseptic, do not forget about the absorbency parameters of a particular wood. There are three types:

1. hardly absorbed (spruce, fir, beech, birch, oak, elm, ash)
2. medium absorbent (alder, maple, aspen, larch, linden)
3. easily absorbed (sapwood of birch, pine, beech)

What is wood stain

The most common types of wood in our country are spruce, pine and larch. They have an attractive texture, but the color palette does not suit everyone. Products made of mahogany, yew, oak, cherry or merbau look much more respectable. However, the cost per cubic meter of this wood is much higher than the price of pine or spruce. You can give the fibers an attractive color with the help of stain - a special tinting composition that penetrates deep into the wood and emphasizes its texture.

There are water, alcohol, oil, acrylic and wax stains, differing in their properties and cost.

Water stains

Compositions on the water - the most affordable for the buyer, they are presented in a wide range of colors and are easy to apply. However water stains make wood more vulnerable to moisture, and they are recommended to be used only for interior work.

Alcohol stains

Alcohol stains widespread, they differ high speed drying and a variety of shades. It is better to apply these compositions with sprayers, since when brushing, uneven coloring of the fibers and the appearance of dark spots are possible.

Oil stains

Acrylic stains

Popularity acrylic stains is growing every year. When penetrating deep, they do not lift the fibers, and form a protective hydrophobic film on the surface of the product. Acrylic stains are less prone to fading, resistant to humid environments, have a wide color palette. The only downside is their price.

Wax stains

Wax stains are an environmentally friendly product, they can be used not only in residential premises, but also in steam rooms of baths and saunas. The color range of these compositions is small, but is constantly expanding due to the fashion in Europe for original finish lining. Wax stain is easily applied to the surface of the wood, penetrates well into the fibers and reliably protects against high humidity. The only drawback is the high cost. Since natural raw materials for their manufacture are much more expensive than synthetic solvents.

What are protective impregnations for wood

Impregnations often include all compounds used for wood processing. This is not correct, since stains, primers and antiseptics are independent products. Impregnations are protective compounds that perform one a specific task. According to this principle, they are classified into the following groups:

• waterproof - designed for structures that are in contact with water or located in rooms with high humidity. These compounds prevent the appearance of putrefactive foci and change geometric parameters, protect the tree from freezing;
• biocidal - protect wood from microorganisms;
• fire retardant - increase the degree of fire resistance of wood, help slow down the spread of flame.

When choosing a composition, it is necessary to take into account the absorbency of wood, the conditions of its operation and the period for which it is necessary to protect the structure from a negative factor.

Impregnations are produced colorless or imitating the color of expensive wood species. The basis of the composition can be water or an organic solvent, which allows you to choose products for internal and external works. The duration of the treatment efficiency depends on the concentration of active substances. This must be taken into account when choosing compositions for structures located in hard-to-reach places.

Wood stains based on natural oils

Wood stains based on natural linseed oil are used

for many years. During this time, not a single generation has changed, a lot has changed, something has become worse, something better, but we know for sure that Minwax has been improving its technologies for more than 100 years. And every year stains and varnishes produced by this company surprise their users with excellent quality.

Marilka Minwax for wood is made on the basis of natural linseed oil, Minwax - gives a very beautiful, juicy and saturated color, which highlights the structure of the tree well, and the product looks quite rich, as well as Minvax wood stains will keep the tree beautiful for many years. Minvax is an ideal tinting for stairs, furniture, doors, and wooden floors, logs, wooden facades. Minwax is environmentally friendly so suitable for residential use and will keep your wooden interior from aging and ultraviolet radiation. Minvax stains are quite easy to use. To give the product the desired shade, it is enough to apply two layers with a brush (it makes no sense to apply the third one, because all saturation is achieved with just two layers. Subsequent layers will not change the result, but will waste your time) wait 10-15 minutes so that the wood has time to soak, and wipe off residue with a dry, lint-free cloth. After this procedure, there will be no more streaks on your product. After applying the first layer, it is recommended to wait 4 hours before applying the second layer.

A huge palette of colors of Minwax stains is presented in 22 variations:

All these colors can be mixed with each other and get even more juicy, beautiful shades.

You ask why you chose stains from the companyMinwax? Well, let's try to answer this question. I use Minvax stains for you:

1. Save time.

2. Save energy.

3. Protect and give color to wood for many years.

Well, here are the main advantages of stainsMinwax. By saving time you save money. After all, not for nothing modern society say: Time is money.

One of the stainsMinwax This high price. But this is offset by the speed of finishing and the excellent appearance of your product, whether it be furniture, stairs, floors, walls, etc.

Minwax® Wood Finish™ Instructions for Use

Minwax® Wood Finish™ is an oil-based wood stain that provides long color wood. It penetrates deep into the pores filling them, thereby preventing other particles from getting into them.

Great solution for toning wooden stairs, furniture, cabinets, doors, finishes, skirting boards and wooden floors. Minwax® Wood Finish™ makes it easier to achieve excellent results in your projects.

Application procedure

1. Level the look with sanding, starting with coarse (120) and ending with fine (220) sanding. Remove all dust, wipe the surface with a cloth moistened with white spirit.

2. On softwood for best result use Minwax Wood Conditioner as directed.

3. Pre-stir. For more light shades You can use 209 wood stain (Natural) as a thinner.

4. Apply the stain in the direction of the grain of the wood with a brush, applicator or cloth.

5. Let it soak 5-15 minutes than longer time absorption, the richer and darker the shade.

6. Wipe off excess unabsorbed stain with a dry, clean, lint-free cloth in the direction of the grain of the wood.

7. For a darker shade, apply another coat of stain after 4-6 hours. Do not sand between coats!

8. The surface is ready for further processing after 8 hours. We recommend to treat (wipe) the tinted surface with white spirit before coating with varnish compositions.

More about stain

Tool brush, cloth or foam applicator

Next coat after 4 - 6 hours

Drying time 8 hours

Coverage 1 liter of stain is enough for 14 sq.m.

Cleaning tools with water and soap, mineral spirits

Number of layers is normal 2 layers, do more to get a saturated layer

Used for tinting wooden stairs, wooden furniture, interior items, as well as for toning wooden parts on ships (sea, river)

You can buy or order in our online store LESPRO.RU.

with delivery in Moscow and the Moscow region, Kaluga and the Kaluga region, Russia by transport companies.

To give greater decorativeness and aesthetics to wood products, they are treated with wood stain. The solution changes the tone and emphasizes the texture of the wood. Modern stains have antiseptic properties and can significantly extend the life of the product.

Consider what types of stains are, how you can make a composition with your own hands, and what are the basic rules for applying stain to wood.

The purpose of wood stain

Stain - a tinting composition that is applied to treated wood to change natural color wood, plywood, furniture, chipboard, fiberboard and MDF. Morilka has a second name Beyts.

A special composition penetrates deep into the wood, so that the texture of the wood is preserved. Such an effect from enamel or paint cannot be achieved.

Some use wood stain to hide the true type of wood, such as painting inexpensive pine in the colors of noble woods. Others use wood stain to update a room or to highlight a beautiful texture. natural material.

With the skillful use of stain and a combination of several shades at the same time, you can turn an ordinary wood product into an artistic value.

In addition to decorative functions, some types of stains also have protective properties. Wood-protective compositions include stains on an oil-alkyd basis or solvents. Such stains are able to protect the tree from insect pests, the appearance of mold and fungi.

Types of stains for wood processing

The main criterion by which all stains are classified is the basis for making the solution. The most common stains are water, alcohol, oil, acrylic and wax based. Consider the features of each type.

Wood stains on water based are available in two forms: dry stains in powder form for self-dilution in water, and in a ready-to-use state. Water stains take a long time to dry, so it will take a long time to get a uniform tone.

The main inconvenience of using stain is that during processing, the composition raises the wood fiber. On the one hand, this emphasizes the structure of the tree, and on the other hand, it makes the product more vulnerable to moisture. Therefore, before applying the stain, the wood should be wetted superficially, left to soak for a while and carefully sanded.

Alcohol stain is a solution of organic dyes with pigments in ethyl alcohol. Alcohol compositions are used for antiseptic and decorative coloring wooden products. Such stains reduce pile uplift and do not cause swelling of the wood.

When using alcohol stain, it is difficult to achieve uniform staining, as the composition dries quickly, and stains can form. For toning small items, such stains can be suitable, but it will be very problematic to paint the parquet.

Alcohol stains are applied only with a spray gun (spray gun), and when stained with a brush, the result can be unpredictable

Oil based stain have many tones and shades. Oil stain contains dyes soluble in drying oil and oils. White spirit is used as a solvent.

Oil stain - the most convenient to use: it can be applied different ways, does not lift the fibers and is distributed evenly over the entire surface. Products treated with oil-based stains can be easily repainted and restored.

Wax and acrylic stains- the latest generation of tinting materials. Wood stains based acrylic resins and wax form a thin colored film on the surface of the wood, which additionally protects the material from excessive moisture. These types of stains evenly "lay" on the surface and are well suited for processing wooden floors.

Acrylic stains have a wide range of tones that you can mix and get more subtle shades. The composition does not bad smell, non-flammable and suitable for all types of wood. Acrylic stains do not emit harmful fumes, and dry quickly after application.

When working with acrylic stain, it is important not to overdo it with the layer thickness. good effect can be obtained when applying no more than 2 layers, if more, then stains may form

Wax stains are very soft wax. They can be used directly on wood or pre-painted surfaces. Wax stains are applied with a cloth and spread over the wood with a rubbing motion.

Wax stains look most effective in combination with polishing. This technique is often used when finishing turning products, profiles and threads.

Important! Wax-based stains must not be used before wood treatment with two-component acid-curing varnishes or polyurethane.

Making a stain with your own hands: recipes for craftsmen

Plant stains

You can give wood a different shade with the help of plant components.

Wood stains based on coffee, tea and vinegar

Do-it-yourself wood stain can be made from improvised means: coffee, tea and vinegar.

You can give the tree a cherry, brown and dark brown hue with a solution of potassium permanganate: 50 g must be diluted in 1 liter warm water, apply to the wood, and after 5 minutes wipe the surface with a soft cloth. In order to get a brighter shade, the treatment with potassium permanganate must be repeated.

After treating the wood with potassium permanganate stain, the surface must be coated with a protective compound, otherwise the potassium permanganate will fade

Stains with chemical components

If you want to get a lasting color, you can experiment and create a stain from chemicals.

Whitening stains

Bleaching wood allows you to prepare the product for painting and achieve expressive tone. Some tree species, when bleached, acquire unexpected color shades. For example, a walnut, which has a monochromatic texture with purple tint, after treatment with a bleaching stain, it becomes pale pink or alo-pink. The bleaching of the apple tree makes the wood a noble ivory color.

Whitening stain: photo

For bleaching, you can use different solutions. Some act very quickly, others more slowly.

1. Solution of oxalic acid. Dissolve 1.5-6 g of oxalic acid in 100 g of boiled water. This composition is suitable for bleaching light wood species: linden, white poplar, light walnut, birch and maple. Dirty tones or gray spots may appear on other types of wood. Veneer sheets after bleaching should be washed with a solution (composition: hot water - 100 g, soda ash- 3 g, bleach - 15). This treatment deresin the surface and raises the pile of wood.
2. Bleaching with 25% hydrogen peroxide is suitable for most tree species except lemon tree, oak and rosewood. Products, after treatment with peroxide, do not need to be washed. Peroxide solution bleaches only finely porous tree species. Wood containing tannins is very difficult to lighten with such a stain. To improve the bleaching process, tannins must first be treated with a 10% solution of ammonia.

The results of bleaching different tree species:

• birch after bleaching in a solution of oxalic acid gets a greenish tint;
• ash and oak veneer becomes noticeably lighter after treatment with oxalic acid;
• Anatolian nut, when bleached in hydrogen peroxide (peroxide concentration not lower than 15%), acquires a golden hue, and walnut - pink.

Methods for applying stain

Wood stain processing can be done in one of four ways:

1. Spraying. The stain is applied to the surface of the wood with an airbrush. Spraying allows you to achieve an even distribution of the stain and obtain an even texture.
2. Trituration. The stain is applied to the wood and evenly rubbed over the entire area of ​​the product. The coating is transformed, the texture becomes pronounced. This method is optimal for porous wood species, and the stain should not be used to dry quickly.
3. Application with a roller or swab. This method is used when processing products with a small area, it helps to avoid streaks and ensures a uniform distribution of the stain over the surface.
4. Brush application. In the absence of a spray gun or swab, you can use a brush, but this method is not suitable for all types of stain. Experts note that when applied with a brush, the wood gives a deeper, richer color than with other methods.

The main principles of wood stain processing

In order to receive beautiful product from natural material, it is necessary to adhere to the basic rules of wood processing.

Applying stain: video

Possible defects and their elimination

It is necessary to apply the stain very carefully, since it will be quite difficult to remove the resulting defects.

The formation of streaks. This happens if the stain is applied to in large numbers and dries very quickly. In this case, you should try to remove the stain layer as much as possible. Another layer of stain should be applied to the hardening layer, which will soften the drying one, and then remove excess solution with a rag.

If the stain is completely dry, then a paint thinner must be used to remove it. However, the entire pigment cannot be removed. The top painted layer can be removed with a planer or sandpaper.

Product spotting. If the treated wood has an uneven density or wavy, then the absorption of the stain may occur unevenly - the color will be richer in some places, and lighter in others.

Spotting on mahogany or walnut looks attractive, but on the wood of cherry, birch, pine, spruce and poplar - it does not look natural

Spotting is very difficult to remove. You can remove the layer of stained wood with a planer, in plywood you will need to remove all the front veneer.

It is better to prevent the appearance of spotting in advance:

• test the wood - apply stain to an unnecessary piece of the workpiece;
• use stain gel.

Stain-gel - a thick, pasty stain that does not spread and does not penetrate deep into the wood. In addition, helium stains have a low absorption rate.

Wood wax and special oil help to create a protective layer and get rid of many problems associated with wood damage, wood stain is also widely used. Proper handling wood wax can be produced at home. We will try to tell you in an accessible way how wood is coated with wax, oil and stain.

In what cases is wood stain needed?

Stain and protective compositions (impregnation) for wood are applied in the same way as if you just wanted to paint it. The prepared wood should be coated quickly, but to get an even coat on smooth wood, it will need to be done very carefully. Each plane must be covered by you continuously, otherwise, if the stain or impregnation in this area dries earlier than in the neighboring one, a noticeable seam will turn out in this place.

Apply stain in the direction of the wood grain. Try not to take too much on the brush and spread out any stray drops before they dry.

Be sure to finish one section before moving on to the next. At the joints of the two sections, pay attention that the applied layers do not overlap. Wood stain coating is quite complicated technological process. Practice on an inconspicuous area of ​​wood first.

Wood waxing - waxing

Wood wax is successfully applied to the surface with a piece of cloth, but some types of this material require application with a brush. Repeated application and polishing creates color depth and shine. Waxing wood does not have to be applied in the direction of the grain, but it is still the most effective way to finish. wooden surfaces.

Take a piece of wax from the container soft tissue and rub it into the wood until no particles of the finishing material remain on the treated surface. Let the wax dry, but do not set. Buff the wood with a clean cloth to ensure smoothness. Wood waxing can be repeated periodically.

Impregnation of wood with oil

Impregnation of wood with oil is necessary to give it protective properties. For all antiseptic oils, a similar application technique is assumed. Tung oil works well on countertops and other surfaces that are found in food preparation areas as it is non-toxic. Danish and teak oils are commonly used on hardwoods, especially outdoor furniture; teak oil is renowned for its glossy finish. If you choose the traditional linseed oil, we recommend using boiled or double boiled as they dry faster and are not as sticky as raw.

Apply the oil generously, in the direction of the fibers, rubbing it in a little with a soft brush to ensure full coverage and penetration into the surface. Let the oil soak in a little and then wipe off the excess with a piece of cloth. Leave the treated wood for half an hour (unless otherwise specified by the oil manufacturer), then polish the surface with a dry cloth.

Varnish or stain treatment

Lacquer, like stain, must be applied along the grain of the wood, although with this material you should not worry too much about the accuracy of application. Since most varnishes are completely transparent, it is easy to miss untreated areas during application. To ensure that the surface is covered everywhere, good lighting should be provided at the work site and regular inspections of the treated areas should be carried out. Move on to the next section after finishing the previous one. Smoothly work with a brush so that the layer of varnish is even.

Wipe off the first coat of varnish, as some types of varnish, especially water-based ones, have a tendency to spread along the grain of the wood. Wipe the surface with a damp cloth to remove dust and allow the varnish to dry before applying the next coat.

The subtleties of applying paint on wood

If you are going to mix paints to get the desired shade, make sure that all paints have the same base - oil or water. Painted wood requires a protective layer on top of itself, such as wax or lacquer. Paint should be applied along the grain of the wood. Keep wet the area you are currently working on and avoid overlapping with areas that are drying. Cover the painted surface with a protective layer. Before doing this, check the manufacturer's specification to determine compatibility. finishing materials.

Surface treatment

Painting of external wooden surfaces is required only from time to time and quite rarely. One single layer, renewed every one or two years, will preserve the tree and provide an acceptable appearance. Once a year, lightly peel off and wipe off a layer of old varnish and then apply a new coat of paint. External surfaces Hardwoods will deteriorate slightly faster even if treated with teak or Danish oil. Although the wood remains protected, growers generally recommend re-oiling it every year.

Wood impregnations are primarily used to protect wood from destructive external influence: sun, mold, atmospheric precipitation, insects, etc. The addition of impregnations significantly improves the properties and characteristics of wood. It stabilizes in size without being so deformed by temperature, becomes more durable, significantly reduces the tendency of the material to crack, and also increases resistance to chemicals and moisture.

Types of impregnations

• Capillary impregnation penetrates well into all capillaries of wood under the influence of natural pressure.
• Diffuse impregnation is absorbed into the wood due to capillary diffuse movement within the wood.
• Hydrostatic impregnation is absorbed into the wood through its capillaries due to artificial pressure.

According to the type of impregnation, there are film-forming and without formation protective film. Film-protective impregnations serve to protect wood from sunlight, moisture and mold. After using this type of impregnation, an elastic film is formed on the surface, which can expand and contract with the wood. The integrity of the structure is not violated at all. Impregnations without the formation of a protective film are absorbed into the wood and are designed to protect it from insects and mold. Impregnations reliably serve on average from 6 to 10 years. If the tree is additionally covered with a special yacht varnish (for example), then the service life of the impregnations is extended by several more years.

Wood stains are designed for deep processing before staining wood. Often this kind of coverage does not provide any protection. Modern stains incorporate translucent dyes that penetrate and linger deep in the pores of the wood. The subsequent application of additional layers gives the tree a darker and more saturated color.

Mordants are:

Oily
Oil stains contain dyes dissolved in oils. They need to be diluted with white spirit. The process of applying oil stains is simple, they do not lift the fiber and at the same time form a uniform layer. To get the desired shade of wood, stains of several colors are taken and mixed.

Alcoholic

Such stains are aniline dyes dissolved in denatured alcohol. The disadvantage of alcohol stains is their rapid drying. This leads to the appearance of spots at the points of contact of not completely dried layers.

Aquatic

Available for sale in ready-made, as well as in the form of crystals or powder. They need to be bred in hot water on one's own. Water stains are different from other types long time drying, so it will take a very long time to achieve a uniform color of the wood. Before using a water stain, the wood should be well sanded so that the fiber does not rise, and then moistened.

Acrylic

For wood, acrylic stains are the newest water stains with the addition of acrylic resins. When using this emulsion, a colored thin film. Acrylic stains do not lift the wood grain as much, and fade much less in the sun compared to water-based counterparts.

The whole application process protective coating on the surface of a tree is similar regular painting. The surface before this should be well prepared. For brushing, take a small amount of the product and evenly apply it to the surface, always along the fibers. This must be done quickly and accurately.

It is important to ensure that the liquid is applied continuously. Otherwise, it will dry out in one area faster than in another, and this will lead to the appearance of noticeable seams and uneven color. If the tree consists of several sections, then you need to carefully monitor that the liquid does not overlap each other. Before processing a wooden surface, it is recommended to practice a little on some inconspicuous area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wood. This will avoid certain difficulties in the work.

The use of impregnations will reliably protect any wooden house from harmful effects environment, and the use of stains will give the desired shade and emphasize the structure of the wood.

Wood stain manufacturers

Today there are many manufacturers of impregnations and wood stains for wood protection. Of these, the most famous German companies FLAMINGO, DUFA and CAPAROL. The latter even developed a whole line protective equipment for wooden surfaces. No less well-known companies from Turkey in this area BETEK, DYO and MARSHALL. The company stands out in particular BETEK which has performed very well in post-Soviet space. More recently, Slovenian companies have entered the market of protective materials HELIOS and BELINKA BELLES D.O.O.