Is it possible to foam the seams in a wooden house. The use of foam in the log house between the crowns. Features in the construction of wooden houses construction. Mounting foam in wooden structures

From time immemorial, the warming of a wooden house has been done with the help of caulking. This is a hard and lengthy job that requires accuracy and certain skills. Today in the century high technology invented new ways of warming, which are replacing the ancient craft. Disputes about the best way to close the gaps between the bars or logs are constantly going on. Many adherents of progress use foam instead of caulking to seal interventional seams, conservatives prefer the traditional method of thermal insulation using caulking. Let's figure out what material is best to insulate a house, and why.

Before answering the question: which is better, it is necessary to list the requirements for insulation material for a wooden house:

1. Vapor permeability, i.e. the material must freely pass through itself water vapor, which is formed in a warm house. If the material does not have this property, moisture is retained in the insulation without going outside. As a result, the heat insulator gets wet, the wood becomes wet and begins to rot.
2. Moisture resistance. This characteristic indicates that the insulation does not accumulate moisture in itself.
3. Resistance to microorganisms and fungi.
4. Breathability. The material must be well breathable.

The log cabin is only caulked natural materials: moss, jute, tow, linen.

Natural heaters:

• do not violate the environmental friendliness of a wooden house;
• do not interfere with the air exchange of wood;
• they retain heat well in the house, because they have low thermal conductivity.

Log cabin, caulked the classic way, looks very expressive, the color of a traditional Russian hut is preserved in the house. Additionally, interventional seams are decorated with a jute ribbon or cord, a rope or a decorative tourniquet is laid between the logs. This not only decorates the appearance of the house, but also improves its thermal insulation.

Despite many positive aspects, caulk has some disadvantages:

Firstly, it is a long and tedious work that requires a lot of strength and patience. It is very important to have experience and skills. maybe a non-specialist. However, there are many nuances. If the seams and joints are not properly caulked, the house may skew, the insulation may be pulled apart by birds or it will be knocked out during shrinkage. For every problem there is a solution that only professionals know.

Secondly, caulking is done several times. This work cannot be done once and for all. Primary is carried out at the construction stage or immediately after its completion. The second time the log house is caulked after the main shrinkage has passed, the work is done both from the outside and from the inside. If the exterior finish is not done, then the third caulk is made 3-5 years after the construction of the house. In some cases, it is necessary to produce intermediate caulking.

You need to be very serious about the choice of the material itself. Usually, loose insulation (moss, tow) is used at the construction stage. For re-caulking take more durable material, which should fit tightly into the grooves, without the formation of cracks. Jute and lnovatin are excellent here.

It should also be taken into account that only moss has good antibacterial properties, and to a lesser extent tow. The remaining heaters must be processed special formulations. On the other hand, tow tends to accumulate moisture, so it is desirable to caulk areas that are least affected by natural precipitation. Birds are very fond of natural insulation, so you also have to take care of protecting the material.

Since the caulking process is very time consuming, many are trying to find other easier ways to seal the seams between the bars. One option is to foam the joints with mounting foam. Let's see if this can be done, and how effective this method is.

The material has excellent performance characteristics:

• high heat and sound insulating properties;
• moisture resistance;
• incombustibility;
• the ability to tightly fill voids and cracks.

In addition, the big advantage of mounting foam is the simple and quick installation and inexpensive price. For this work, it is not necessary to hire installers, it is easily done on your own. It is these indicators that, first of all, are guided by those who have made their choice in favor of this heater.

However, foam cannot provide a house with reliable and high-quality thermal insulation, because:

• does not have sufficient elasticity, which leads to the formation of cracks and cracks when the beam moves during shrinkage;
• when heated, it releases harmful toxins;
• cracks and collapses under the influence of UV rays;
• wood is a breathable material, the foam does not allow air to pass through, it simply clogs the pores in the wood and deprives it of natural air exchange;
• moisture can accumulate at the joints of the foam with the timber, which leads to rotting of the tree.

As you can see, the list of shortcomings is quite wide, which limits the scope of its application.

Foam can only be used when it is intended to cover the facade decorative material. Under these conditions, ultraviolet will not have a detrimental effect on the material. But it must be taken into account that the work should be carried out before the finishing itself, and also that with this method of sealing the joints, the environmental friendliness of the wooden house will be violated.

With great reservations, it is possible to foam cracks and interventional seams in wooden houses only when this option is considered as a temporary measure.

Professional Services

The specialists of the company "Master Srubov" do not recommend the use of foam for warming a wooden house and a bath. Caulking of interventional joints, although it is a more complex and time-consuming work, but it guarantees good and reliable thermal insulation, provided that the work is done efficiently and professionally.

If you are attracted to new technologies, you want your home to look modern and stylish, we suggest using the service. This material is specially designed to insulate the seams between logs and beams and provides a reliable and elastic connection.

The masters of our company work carefully and accurately, strictly observing the technology. Specialists are highly qualified, have the necessary skills and extensive experience. You can entrust us with work on the insulation of a house of any complexity and volume.

Foam insulation has been used for a long time. The method is not new. The technology is well studied, the materials are tested. Known advantages and disadvantages. There are more advantages, because this method of insulation is used in construction and repair.

Overview of benefits:

1. Such a heater is biologically pure material. It does not emit anything harmful into the atmosphere.

2. When insulating walls, floors, ceilings with mounting foam, you do not need to spend money on additional waterproofing materials.

3. Foam insulation long years retains its specifications. The service life is calculated in tens of years.

4. Mounting foam has high adhesion to various materials. applied to wooden surfaces, it also protects them from rotting and fungal infection. The metal covered with foam insulation is resistant to corrosive processes.

5. The thermal conductivity of the mounting foam in a frozen state is several times lower than the thermal conductivity of other heaters. There are no seams in the foam coating. The structure is dense and uniform. Therefore, heat loss is minimal.

6. Foam insulation has high sound insulation performance.

Now for the disadvantages:

1. Wall insulation with mounting foam inside the room should be carried out in conditions of free air access. In some cases, ensure compliance this requirement difficult.

2. Foam insulation must be covered with some kind of facing material. And this is an additional expense.

3. Mounting foam is expensive. For insulation, you will have to buy more than one cylinder.

Execution of works

Each construction manipulation begins with the selection of materials and tools. In principle, any polyurethane foam can be used as a heater. "Any" is high-quality, professional. Messing around with household spray cans does not make sense on large plots work.

But when choosing a material, it is important to take into account the features of the building that is planned to be insulated. For example. If you need to process a wall, interfloor ceiling or ceiling at the exit point chimney, chimney, then we buy heat-resistant mounting foam. This is a prerequisite.

Tools

We repeat once again: it makes no sense to insulate with the help of cylinders. Nobody does it. Even guns for polyurethane foam will not work. You need a special device for spraying the substance.

It costs a lot. To insulate numerous houses, it is advisable for customers (for money) to purchase it. For one-time work - can be rented.

The device for spraying polyurethane foam delivers the product to the sprayer under pressure. From there to the surface. The feed rate is controlled by the user (the switch is located near the nozzle). Therefore, before use, it is recommended to test the machine, set a comfortable spray level.

Stages of work

1. Surface preparation.

Remove all dirt and dust. Wet the clean surface. For good adhesion of the mounting foam, high humidity is needed. For moistening, you can use a primer diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1.

2. Foam application.

Mounting foam is sprayed in portions, carefully filling all cavities and joints. Work is carried out in the direction from the bottom up.

When the substance is completely hardened, the surface is considered insulated.

3. Finishing.

It is not recommended to leave the hardened polyurethane foam open. It needs to be sewn up or puttied.

Volkov 04-08-2009 16:06

Polyurethane foam, of course, is convenient to use when installing, for example, windows. But can it be used in wooden structures? I remember from childhood that this foam is hygroscopic and therefore will suck moisture and cause the wood to rot. Here, can the high assembly say something about the applicability of such foam, or perhaps there are others convenient options fixing windows in openings?

ycb1 04-08-2009 16:20

Nikofar 04-08-2009 16:41

Do a simple experiment. Cast a small briquette about the size of a bar of soap from the mounting foam. Give the briquette time for complete polymerization.

What is better for warming a wooden house: foam or caulking

Cut the briquette along the edges with a knife. Place the briquette in the water, pressing it with some kind of weight. Leave for 3-4 days. Take out the briquette. If it strongly absorbed water, then yes, the mounting foam that you used is hygroscopic.
In fact, polyurethane foam does not pick up moisture from the air, as far as I know. in wooden log house, built according to my project, the gaps between timber wall and box wooden frames sealed with mounting foam. 12 years ago. Wetting of the seam was not detected.

Schniperson 04-08-2009 16:42

Yes. The issue of foam is of great concern. I join the question.

Originally posted by ycb1:

Tow in gypsum milk and dense stuffing with a wooden spatula .. costs a hundred years.

Schniperson 04-08-2009 16:49

Moisture improves the adhesion (sticking) of the foam in the liquid state.

ycb1 04-08-2009 16:54

Originally posted by Schneeperson:
Yes. The issue of foam is of great concern. I join the question.

For a hundred years our grandparents went to cesspool. This does not mean that a warm toilet with a toilet is worse.

Don't juggle plz, dude asked about an affordable alternative to foam...

Ace_Odinn 04-08-2009 16:55

If you do not cut off the frozen foam, then the outer smooth surface does not allow access to moisture inside, it seems so.

And also moss is better caulk all the cracks =)

Schniperson 04-08-2009 17:04

Originally posted by ycb1:

Under the influence of the atmosphere, unprotected foam collapses ... draw a conclusion.

Draw your own conclusion.
And I will do it according to the rules: with the surface of the foam coated with protective materials.

Mower_man 04-08-2009 17:35

Originally posted by ycb1:

Under the influence of the atmosphere, unprotected foam collapses ... draw a conclusion.

if exposed to direct sunlight (UV component), then yes, it degrades into dust. Therefore, the cleaned / cut seams are painted over afterwards.

unname22 04-08-2009 18:11

During the decomposition of these resins, gases that have a nerve-paralytic effect are released. This is certainly not sarin, but the chances of getting out in the smoke are much less.
I was told this by a professor from the research institute of some kind of chemistry in Ekteerinburg. The research institute building is not far from the GUK UPI, we talked with them a few years ago at an old job.

ycb1 04-08-2009 19:49

I join this. There are no statistics of long-term operation for ten years in wooden structures ... different expansion from moisture, temperature, insecurity, unlike in panel and brick housing construction (plastering cement mortar slopes, and here there are only platbands, flashings .. paint is not protection) There is experience in operating a 2-storey building made of round logs in the hunting area of ​​the Tver region for 7 years ... The foam did not pass the exam, only hemp rope, tow, somehow corrected the defects ...
I wish Shniperson to learn a little, and then to advise something .. so no offense

Yep 04-08-2009 20:55

Originally posted by unname22:
I generally do not recommend using mounting foam.
Its basis is polyurethane resins, polymerized under the influence of air moisture.
Everything seems to be fine, but God forbid if it starts to burn ... Gases that have a nerve-paralytic effect are released during the decomposition of these resins. This is certainly not sarin, but the chances of getting out in the smoke are much less.
I was told this by a professor from the research institute of some kind of chemistry in Ekteerinburg. The research institute building is not far from the GUK UPI, we talked with them a few years ago at an old job.

and first, before the fire reaches the mounting foam, which is extremely unlikely, since the foam is usually plastered or covered with drywall from the inside, try to burn PVC linoleum ...
here you definitely won’t get out, having inhaled combustion products containing ash-chlorine - what hydrochloric acid is obtained from ...
and if you have plastic windows, then the pvc frames themselves will start to burn MUCH EARLIER than the mounting foam!

Nikofar 04-08-2009 22:27

Guys, what PPU are we discussing? And with what blowing agent?
And then PPU are with open pores - then they are hygroscopic ... They happen with pores closed after polymerization - then they are hydrophobic ...

Yep 04-08-2009 22:38

Originally posted by Nikofar:

And then PPU are with open pores - then they are hygroscopic ... They happen with pores closed after polymerization - then they are hydrophobic ...

However, standard polyurethane foam is hygroscopic only during the polymerization process, when the foam needs moisture for polymerization, which it absorbs “with pleasure”.
in this case, the pores most likely turn out to be closed - if the foam is immersed in water, it will not absorb moisture and will not sink.

there is also polyurethane heat-insulating foam, which is covered from the inside of the refrigerators - I don’t remember how things are with it.

Yep 04-08-2009 22:39

Originally posted by Yep:

right, the foam is not hygroscopic, and seems to have an open-pore structure.

NO, I remember to clarify - the structure is closed, see below.

Egor 04-08-2009 23:43

…But can it be used in wooden structures?…

Very widely used.

Originally posted by Volkov:
... Somehow from my childhood I remember that this foam is hygroscopic and, therefore, will suck moisture and cause wood to rot ...

Everything is just the opposite.
Moisture polymerized foam does not suck.
Modern foam has antifungal properties.
But only special foam can be constantly in the water.

Originally posted by Volkov:
…perhaps there are other convenient options for fixing windows in openings?

Their darkness, but such simplicity at a low price and high reliability is perhaps not found.
By the way, please note that before foaming, the structure should be accurately and fairly rigidly installed in the opening with gaskets and fixed with dowels.
If the rigidity is not enough, the window will pop up.
Excess foam, with its volumetric growth, can bend the wood, so all frames should be rigidly and firmly unfolded from the inside.

The only thing that polyurethane foam is seriously afraid of is ultraviolet radiation, including reflected.

Yep 05-08-2009 06:14

Originally posted by Egor:

Therefore, the foam must be covered with flashings or painted with reflective paint or mastic that is impervious to ultraviolet radiation.

This is not the best option.
The more carefully you seal the foam or the gap between the window and the quarter (and there are also cretins who seal this place tightly with sealant), the more likely it is that your slopes will turn black from mold ...
According to GOST, the gap between the frame and the quarter should be closed by the PSUL, which will release the moisture coming from the apartment out of the slope and protect the foam from UV.

Volkov 05-08-2009 10:26

Everyone thank you very much, and unname22, and, in general, happy birthday.
The windows will be on a cold veranda.

I do everything so that it is blown through and the tree does not rot, so it will not work to seal the foam, and this is wrong, as the respected Yep says.
Frankly speaking, the foam attracts precisely by the speed and ease of installation. Other methods are more labor intensive. However, I did not receive an exhaustive answer, therefore, I will apply other options.

Yep 05-08-2009 10:31

Originally posted by Volkov:

The windows will be on a cold veranda. I do everything so that it is blown through and the tree does not rot, so it will not work to seal the foam, and this is wrong, as the respected Yep says.
Frankly speaking, the foam attracts precisely by the speed and ease of installation. Other methods are more labor intensive. However, I did not receive an exhaustive answer, therefore, I will apply other options.

just on a cold non-residential veranda, you CAN use flashings or platbands to seal the foam - the fact is that the veranda most likely has a small wall thickness (a quarter is absent in principle), the humidity on it is minimal, and there will be no problems with damp slopes, especially if there there is ventilation.
all problems with window slopes occur in residential areas where there is a constant source of atmospheric moisture - people.

Volkov 05-08-2009 11:05

You're right, I didn't think so!

Egor 07-08-2009 21:55

By the way, the flashing does not seal at all, but only covers all the “beauty” of the foam joint and protects it from UV rays.
Usually they are installed BEFORE foaming on the front side, and the back is lined.

Home▲▼

Filling gaps with mounting foam

To seal gaps with a width of 1 to 8 cm, special mounting foam is most often used.

Embedding technology

It is easy to use and inexpensive in price, however, for the correct sealing of cracks, the following technology must be observed.

Good afternoon.

I live in Tomsk, German restorers came to us recently wooden architecture. On checking several houses restored by our specialists, they found a lot of errors.

How to properly foam windows and slopes

And, in particular, that when installing plastic windows in wooden houses, mounting foam was used for installation and thermal insulation. Their verdict is that a wooden wall (wood) with a given combination of materials will quickly collapse. Since I myself plan to install plastic windows in a wooden house made of timber in the same way, I would like to know your opinion on this issue. And if they are right, how can this be prevented or replaced. Thanks in advance for your reply.

Sincerely, Alexander

The question is serious. I thought for a long time before answering. In addition, I myself installed plastic windows in my wooden house and put them on foam too.

You should not have released these Germans. They should have explained it to you. I honestly don't know of a more neutral material than polyurethane. As far as I understand, all mounting foam is polyurethane. The only thing that can be assumed is that the foam somehow accumulates moisture, which does not dry out and causes accelerated decay of the tree, but even here I doubt it very much, since the foam dries out perfectly due to its porous structure.

And the last. One of my village neighbors picked up a few years ago somewhere at the construction site of old wooden doors with boxes, apparently someone did repairs and changed. These doors were put on foam and are still lying around in his barn. So I specifically went to him and looked what happened to these boxes under the foam. NOTHING! Full order.

Thus, if your house rots in a hundred years, then not a single expert will say what caused it. From foam, or from old age. Personally, I'm not going to give up the foam. Maybe you just fed your Germans badly, and they decided to take revenge on you like that?

I hope that among the readers of this site there will be foam experts who will express their strong opinion!

For many years, builders have been experimenting in search of a technological way to connect logs in a log house with a minimum of gaps. The log should sit - saddle "on the log of a perpendicular wall. To do this, it is necessary to build walls with a shift of half the diameter of the log. Therefore, a bed is placed in the base (from a log cut in half lengthwise), which is attached to the foundation with anchors. The bed is separated from the subfloor by two layers of dense closed-cell polyurethane foam 6 mm thick each. Polyethylene foam serves as both wind protection and waterproofing.

The use of mounting foam in construction and repair

Among the considerable number of tools that are in demand in the daily life of almost any homeowner, there is an inexpensive and uncomplicated tool - a foam gun.

Is it possible to do without it?

I guess, yes. The reader probably knows that there are cans of foam for domestic use. In this case, the use of mounting foam is possible without the use of a mounting gun. But my personal experience working with such cylinders (mounting seam in the photo on the left), as well as the subsequent experience of working with a mounting gun (mounting seam in the photo on the right) led me to the following thoughts:
1. Use mounting foam without a gun, even with an infrequent, but fairly regular performance of work, it “comes out more expensive for itself” in terms of money, quality and time.
For example, when performing the work shown in the photo on the left, I used up three household cylinders (door frame width 300 mm). At the same time, it is very difficult to ensure the uniformity of the assembly seam and the subsequent quality. The photo on the right shows a mounting seam obtained when a foam gun was used. The mounting seam turned out to be of better quality, one cylinder was enough to complete the work.

2. Taking into account the price ratio (currently) for mounting guns and mounting foam, the issue from the point of view of cost savings is also in favor of using a mounting gun, since the gun will pay off after using three or four cylinders of mounting foam.
So, the matter remains small: to choose and buy a mounting gun from the countless variety that are on the shelves, and at the same time not make a mistake with the purchase. But at first very short information for those who have not used this tool.
Note: this reference is provided for the correct perception of the text material in the article. Main structural elements mounting gun (and their purpose) are shown in the figure below.

foam gun photo

Given the fact that instructions are usually attached to the pistol, the information presented above will be enough to read and understand the article.

Overlay or "panel"?

Often, acquiring a plot with log house, the new owners are in a hurry to overlay it with a brick. This strengthens the structure, makes it more solid. However, many people often make the same mistake. Without calculating that the weight of the stone walls is not intended for the foundation of a wooden structure (which may not be under them at all!), You run the risk of significant shrinkage in the foreseeable future, which may result in cracks in the walls of the house. This also happens because it "breathes", which means that its walls can "walk" due to temperature changes in different seasons of the year. This is especially noticeable where the transition from season to season is very sharp. Subsequently, all for the same reasons described above, it will not be safe to try to build on a brick second floor.

In order to avoid such problems, consult with experts, conduct all reconnaissance activities before restructuring. By the way, cosmetic cladding of the house can be done without resorting to bricks, but using modern panel materials. Plastic exterior panels are much lighter than brick, look pretty, and protect your home well from rain and snow. In addition, the house is lined with panels incomparably cheaper and faster than with bricks. The main thing is to lay an air cushion between the house and the sheets of panels: the panels are attached to the crate, which is made on the outer wooden wall. By the way, in the case of a brick lining of a wooden house, an air gap is needed, which, meanwhile, is done differently.

Warming of a wooden house

The opportunity to buy on credit has significantly expanded the number of owners of wooden houses. The house made of wood is warm, cozy, beautiful, but besides good properties, the tree is prone to drying out, pest damage, cracking. Therefore, over time, it is necessary to carry out work on warming.

Warming should begin with a thorough external examination. It is necessary to identify all the cracks and holes from which the cold air, and then close them up. Particular attention should be paid to the corners - it is there that there is a high probability of damage.
You can use mounting foam or polyurethane sealants if you have a house made of glued laminated timber - this material, which has passed the necessary heat treatment, does not dry out. If this is a log house, then such wooden house is constantly in motion. Therefore, in just six months, the foam will collapse and you will have to carry out work again.

The most reliable and proven method of eliminating cracks in a wooden house is caulking. This method was used by our grandfathers. For caulking, it is best to use tow, and finish with a hemp rope.

Green advocates can use dry swamp moss – great material for sealing cracks and crevices. The only problem is to collect required amount moss, if the amount of work is large. For houses made of logs, it is necessary to use interventional insulation, which is used as felt, linen or jute tow. For a house made of timber, the thickness of the insulation can be 10-15 mm, and for a house made of timber it should be up to 25 mm.

The next step is to insulate the ceiling. It is to the ceiling that the air heated by the stove or batteries rushes. There it cools and sinks down the walls to the floor. good decision for insulation of the ceiling is foam. You can also use mineral wool.

When choosing a material, it should be borne in mind that in addition to insulation, the material will block the passage of moisture through the ceiling, so the use of foil material is not recommended - this will lead to condensation on the ceiling and disrupt the natural atmosphere inside the house, can lead to fungi. Any waterproofing should be placed under the thermal insulation layer, and not vice versa.

When insulating walls, special attention should be paid to windows. Especially often blows from the junctions window frame with a wall. Outside, it is recommended to caulk or use polymer sealants. If the windows are wooden, then periodic painting not only refreshes the appearance, but also gives additional tightness to the window.

Better to use double-glazed windows. Glass needs to be planted in a frame, on silicone sealant. This will ensure that cold air does not blow out of the window in winter. Perfect solution- plastic windows. Only in this way can complete tightness be achieved.

If serious home insulation is required, then they are used insulation materials (mineral wool, slabs of basalt fiber, etc.), decorated on top with finishing materials.

Sometimes they cover a log house with bricks, if the foundation allows. But in this case, all the beauty of a wooden house is lost. The best option is to build a glass veranda. This will create an air buffer zone while maintaining natural beauty tree.

Insulation of the house should not be postponed for the winter. It is better to carry out all the necessary repair work in summer, and in the cold season, only enjoy the coziness and comfort of your home.

Sealing and insulation of the crowns of a wooden house.

In spite of a large number of modern building materials, many prefer to use wood for individual construction. Undoubtedly, wooden houses have their advantages: affordable price, environmental friendliness, beautiful appearance. But there are also disadvantages. The tree is very strongly deformed under the influence of moisture, cracks and cracks. The constant movement of the foundation, which occurs at any time of the year, also leads to an increase in the size of the seams between the crowns of a wooden house. Ultimately, the wooden structures of the house lose their tightness and begin to let in cold air and moisture. The problem can only be solved with the help of professional wood sealant. Some people mistakenly believe that mounting foam, putty, or any sealant can be used to seal wooden structures. In fact, the selection of sealant for wood is a rather serious task.

Wood sealant must be highly elastic. Polyurethane mounting foam does not have such a property, respectively, with the subsequent deformation of wooden structures, they will not be able to provide sufficient tightness.

Silicone, polyurethane, thiokol, butyl rubber sealants and mastics do not have good adhesion to wood. They do not have the necessary degree of deformability and, moreover, do not blend well with wood in color. In addition, many of these sealants cannot be used indoors.

Accordingly, the ideal sealant for wood is an acrylic sealant with a high degree deformability. Of the sealants presented in the assortment of our company, acrylic sealants for wood Atacamast 125 and Rustil-acrylic for wood are best suited for this work. These sealants have high deformability and excellent adhesion to wood. If you need to close up cracks in the wooden structures of the house, or fill the joints between the wall of a wooden house and window block, door frame and so on, our wood sealant is the perfect solution.

Now let's move on to the issue of insulation and sealing of the interventional seams of a wooden house from the outside. We note right away that it is better to do this work after the initial shrinkage at home, that is, on next year, after laying the walls of the house. Before using sealant for wood, it is necessary to fill the gaps between the logs with insulation. For these purposes, the Vilaterm, Izodom tourniquet of the required section and diameter is best suited. It performs several important functions at once.
First, it is a filler that reduces the consumption of wood sealant.
Secondly, the tourniquet improves the thermal insulation of the interventional seam.
Thirdly, the tow made of foam material acts as an anti-adhesion pad, which ensures that the wood sealant adheres only at two points - on the edges of adjacent logs.

Sealants Atacamast 125 and Rustil-acrylic for wood do not stick to the gasket, because only adheres to wood. Therefore, if you fill the seam between the crowns with a tourniquet of the Vilaterm (Izodom) type, then the sealant layer will be, as it were, stretched over sealing gasket and fixed along the edges to the logs. Why is this needed? Then, without such a heater, the wood sealant penetrates into the gap and sticks to the inner surface of the logs. This effect is called: three-point adhesion. If the logs are deformed, then the sealant that has filled the entire internal space of the seam will simply come off one of the logs and all your work will be useless.

It should also be noted that the seams before starting work should be cleaned of dust, varnish, old paint, it is also better to lightly sand them. Work is best done in moderate warm temperature air (about +20°C). In very hot weather the surface should be slightly moistened. In order for the seam to be even, use construction tape.

Summarize! The main tasks that our technology of sealing a wooden house solves:

Elimination of leaky seams.
Protection from the negative destruction of harmful insects.
Durability. Serves 20 years.
Exclusion of re-caulking.
Prevention of pulling away of a heater by birds.
Beauty and aesthetics.
Reduces heat loss.
Keeps the house green.

Thus, with one shot you kill 8 birds with one stone. A tube of sealant costs 310 rubles 900 grams, it is enough for about 15 m.p.

Features in the construction of wooden houses

Requires a different approach than stone. There should be practically no rigid fasteners in it, so that all elements of a wooden log house can move relative to each other during the drying or swelling of the log. When designing a wooden house, one must take into account the diameter and length of the log to be used. The rounded log is no more than 6 m, which imposes some restrictions on the layout. If space is needed large sizes, then you have to make a false joint of the log, the so-called cross, which moves away from the wall by 20 cm. But, in principle, this method allows you to do quite large rooms. Expansion gaps in a wooden house are also taken into account at the design stage. When designing, it is necessary to be tied to the modules characteristic of wooden housing construction - 1.1 m and 1.2 m (module industrial buildings- 6 m).

Based on the module, all buildings are calculated. The minimum thickness of the outer walls in a wooden house for our climatic conditions- 18 cm, but it is better to make 20 or 24 cm, depending on the breed and. The calculation of loads in the project must be carried out with all care, otherwise the lags will play and the floor will creak. The shrinkage of a log in a wooden house occurs not only in the transverse, but also in the longitudinal direction. The transverse shrinkage is compensated by the shrinkage of the log house, but in the process of longitudinal shrinkage, the ends of the logs diverge at the points of their joining, and cracks form between them over time. Therefore, such places in a wooden house must be designed at the place of overcuts so that they are blocked by a thermal lock. The dowels and the thorn-groove connection do not solve the issue, because in the process of shrinkage, gaps are formed, to which, after assembling the log house, you can no longer get close to further seal them. Not to mention how the visible joints of logs spoil the facade in a wooden house.

Layout: more is better than less Wooden house on paper and on the site does not always look the same. In the catalog of projects, a wooden house can be liked, and when it is built, the customer says that he wanted something completely different. For example, a 9 m2 kitchen in the project seems quite spacious. And when the house is built, it turns out that there is nowhere to turn around - such a kitchen is a little more than those that exist, in city apartments it is recommended to make kitchens of 15-20 m. It is also desirable to provide three bedrooms in a wooden house - two for the owners and one guest room. The optimal area of ​​a wooden house for a family of four is 150 m2, it makes no sense to do less. Others, starting to build a wooden house, easily enter the role of the demiurge of their native abode and begin to create. In 90% of cases, some changes are made to the project during construction.

At the same time, redesigning a project must be done wisely. Sometimes doing it the way the client wants is dangerous for the construction of a wooden house or directly contradicts building codes and rules. If, despite admonitions, the future homeowner insists on his own, construction company, as a rule, makes concessions, but at the same time disclaims responsibility for possible negative consequences and takes a receipt from the client. Only a competent architect will help to avoid design errors. Of course, his services are not cheap, but the main problem not even in this, but in finding one. Especially for a wooden house.

In many firms, only a sketch of a house can be sketched, based on the wishes of the customer. Then it is transferred to a specialized design company - it makes all the calculations and develops a working draft, according to which it is possible to build a wooden house. Less capricious in this regard (houses using Canadian technology). Even if mistakes were made during their design (or just a desire to change something), they can be corrected during construction: the wall can be unscrewed, moved to another place and reassembled.

Two words about the foundation common mistake when constructing a foundation for a wooden house - its design does not coincide with the design of the log house according to the project. In general, a wooden house on the foundations is not very whimsical, since it is almost 2 times lighter than a brick one. Now many are building a wooden house not even on strip foundation, and on the columnar - along the perimeter of the future building (at the main points where the load is), pipes are dug into the ground and concreted and a house is placed on them. This allows you to significantly reduce the cost of construction. Shrinkage, shrinkage, shrinkage To foresee shrinkage is the main duty and the first sign of a competent architect.

It's no secret that shrinkage in a wooden house natural humidity happens for two reasons. The first is the drying of logs (shrinkage 5-8% depending on the initial humidity). For example, a log with a diameter of 240 mm may lose 10-20 mm by the end of shrinkage. The second is the collapse of logs under the weight of the load and the opening of cracks (up to 2%). Thus, the total shrinkage is 6-10%, sometimes up to 15%. Type of raw material Shrinkage Raw up to 7% (ie for each meter - 7 cm shrinkage) Glued laminated timber 1% Visible shrinkage in a wooden house occurs during the first two years. Each floor will shrink by 10-20 cm. For example, if you built walls 3 m high, then in a year they will become 2.8 m.

And the shrinkage, imperceptible to the eye, will continue for another 10 years, but already quite insignificant. Therefore, when arranging openings in a wooden house for windows and doors, it is imperative to give a margin, otherwise, when the house shrinks, it will simply “crush” the door or window, the frame may warp, up to the point that the glass will crack. If in the corners of a wooden house the logs are connected "in a cup", then at the notches of the cups it is also necessary to give reserves for shrinkage. If this is not done, then when the logs dry out, they "hang", and gaps form between them.
By the way, SNiPs allow the use of wood with a moisture content of no more than 25%, while in practice it is often wooden houses built from raw logs with a moisture content of 30-40%. In wooden houses made of solid wood, it is necessary to arrange a seat, a gap, in places of window and door openings - from 6 to 10 cm. The building sits on these 6-10 cm. For glued laminated timber, these gaps are 3-4 cm. Glued laminated timber shrinks in the process of gradual loading, by the time the final installation of the wooden house, it completely shrinks.

Wooden houses are alive, whether they are made of fresh sawn timber or glued beams. A wooden house made of solid wood, having completely dried out and settled down after 3 years, having a moisture content of 18%, constantly gives and takes away moisture from 3 to 5%, depending on which climate zone you are as protected by the walls. "Interior decoration in a wooden house cannot be done in wet weather (especially in winter, autumn). A tree will definitely take 3-4% of moisture from environment, and when they turn it on in a wooden house, cracks will appear.

In addition, a wooden house should stand up: a box with a roof (but without windows, so that it is blown through) should stand for six months or a year, then with windows - another six months. In total, you can move in only after 2 years. Tricks on the terrace Throughout the entire period of shrinkage, the wooden house needs to be “twisted”. company that built a wooden house.Workers from hired teams usually do not make these compensators, which leads to negative consequences. Vertical structures (pillars, columns) are another weak point in a wooden house during shrinkage. In a wooden house, a terrace is often arranged, of course, supported by poles.

Special anchor bolts with a power reserve of up to 10 cm, which must be tightened during shrinkage in a wooden house. Without this, it is likely that the roof will simply pull to the side. The same goes for the columns inside a wooden house. If you put poles without compensators, it turns out that one half of the wooden house of the village, and the second does not let the pole. And the wooden house will become skewed. The crews that built it are usually out of reach by this time.

This is usually followed by a call to specialists from a construction company (and they are reluctant to respond, since they have enough of their clients who need to be "twisted" in time). As a result, due to the negligent attitude of unscrupulous workers, a prejudice arises that a wooden house is bad. Do no harm... with metal In Russia, only wood and wood have always been built. If needed vertical elements for fastening logs, they used the so-called nagel - thick wooden nails. To date, they have not come up with anything better. If a wooden house is assembled by non-professionals, they can knock down logs with iron fittings. The moisture contained in the air and in the log house is enough for the metal to begin to rust (especially since the humidity at the bottom of the wall is greater than at the top).

In turn, this will cause the wood to rot, especially the first 2-3 crowns. Therefore, it is better to drill the first crown of a wooden frame to the foundation with a stainless thread, and then use dowels. Or make the first 2-3 crowns from larch - it is so resistant to moisture that it is used even in shipbuilding. True, it is not cheap: there is very little of it in Ukraine and it is mainly imported from Russia. fasten wooden beam to the foundation it is possible with the help of galvanized ferrous metal. In wood, which shrinks less, metal ties can be used. They cannot be used in a wooden house made of logs, they can only be added as separate elements. It is also not recommended to connect the logs of a wooden house at one cut along the entire height of the wall in more than three crowns. In this place, floors may sag over time.

In the right frame, all logs should be connected in a checkerboard pattern, intertwined like a vine in a wicker basket. Only in this case, the wooden house will begin to shrink evenly, will be as strong and durable as possible. Nagel - it is necessary! The structure of the wooden log house is supported by oak dowels, a hole is drilled under them in the log, and the dowels are driven into 3 logs. This makes it possible for the wood not to walk. Some hack and hammer in nails; when dried, it turns out that the logs "hang" like a barbecue on a skewer. Connecting logs with dowels is a laborious process, so workers sometimes do not insert them at all. Improper fastening of the dowels can also cause the wall to buckle (bulge outwards). And no mounting foam!

Wood is 100% natural material. The same should be the insulating materials laid between the logs in the log house. It can be linen, tow, moss (however, it is more common in Russia, and is practically not used in Ukraine). In extreme cases - a synthetic winterizer: this is a neutral material. But, in no case should you blow foam between the logs - who needs an environmentally friendly wooden house with the addition of chemicals?

Window cases In any wooden houses, gaps are needed between the supporting structures and the enclosing structures. For example, walls, windows, doors cannot fit closely, otherwise they will simply be torn apart. If a wooden house is built from an array, as soon as a window or doorway is cut down, it is necessary to make guides in it. A groove is made at the end vertically with a width of 35 mm, into which guides are inserted - a metal pipe. A window or door frame. They compensate for the possible provocations of the log.

In practice, it turns out that cutting a window in a wooden house is a task that not everyone can do. When arranging corner joints, many mistakes are made if the grooves and locks are cut on the spot. Therefore, it is better that they are made at the factory. Windows are inserted in a wooden house, often using technology designed for brick houses: they put it on a rigid mount, blow it out with mounting foam, close it with a casing - and that's it.

This is a gross mistake, even if the windows are metal-plastic. "Application polyethylene film over the insulation in the windows of a wooden house is unacceptable, since it does not allow air to penetrate. Instead, it is supposed to insert mineral insulation into the gap between the frame and the hole for the window, and then close it with special paper, and then the casing is placed. Today, few people use it, but it must be demanded. And in no case can not use mounting foam.

Wooden buildings are extremely attractive, both in terms of environmental friendliness and protection from the cold, and their appearance. Now there is a real trend in the construction of houses made of wood, and similar buildings, erected clearly not in Soviet times can be seen in various regions of the country. However, all the advantages of wooden houses appear only if there are no gaps between the logs in their walls. And how exactly to close these seams with traditional and modern methods, we will tell you in this material.

But first I would like to go through numerous benefits similar buildings, which made them so popular among our compatriots, and on a global scale as a whole. So, let's focus on the main ones:

• Environmental friendliness. Houses made of natural materials, completely safe for the health of the people living in them. Moreover, a person in wooden houses gets sick less, has a higher body tone and vigor;
• Wooden walls, with similar durability and strength, will be much thinner than their brick counterparts. So there is more space in such houses;
• Wood is a very mediocre conductor of temperature. Thanks to this, in summer it is cool in such a dwelling, and in winter heat loss to the outside is minimal. Therefore, such a structure warms up faster, and to maintain comfortable temperature conditions less resources are spent;
• Wooden houses are lighter than concrete or brick ones, so the construction of a massive foundation is not required;
• Wooden walls are very pleasing to the eye, so you can save a lot on finishing activities.

And this is only a small part of the advantages that such buildings have. Listing all or even most of them would be a very lengthy process. But already what is said above is enough to understand the reasons for the newly increased popularity of the tree. However, it is important that much of the above may not be available if the joints between the logs are not properly insulated.

How did our ancestors

Earlier, when there were simply no technologically advanced insulating materials on the market, our ancestors used moss, hemp or tow in their old log houses. However, even now many people decide to use such authentic methods. Moreover, many masters are still talking about their exceptional effectiveness. Finally, the advantages are that in this case we are talking about natural materials that are safe for health.

Moss can be placed in the gaps between the logs without any additives. However, finding sphagnum in sufficient quantities today is not easy. As for tow or hemp, in this case ideal solution there is an additive in them of a solution of gypsum or cement. Moreover, some experienced craftsmen in this matter can tamp these materials into the slots so firmly that sticking an awl into them will be no less difficult than into the wood itself.

Modern means of sealing gaps in wooden structures

There are no special means for sealing the seams between the logs, since sealants known to everyone are used for this. But not everyone is suitable for such work, and here's why.

Ordinary polyurethane foam is not suitable due to the constant, albeit small, mobility of the logs. Thus, the foam will only crack and flake over time. Silicone sealant is not suitable due to the fact that it does not absorb moisture well. And since the tree, as usual, does it very well, and also rots well, rot will necessarily form in those places of the log where there are problems with sufficient evaporation.

All of the above makes such sealants unsuitable for sealing joints between logs in wooden houses or barns. And the ideal solution is actually the use of polyurethane sealants. The latter can be actively used, both inside and outside the building, as they perfectly tolerate temperature changes and retain their properties even in the most very coldy. Such sealants are excellent, unless we are talking about those that are sold in cylinders, they also tolerate the effects of solar radiation, without reducing their insulating properties even from the most serious doses of ultraviolet radiation.

What needs to be placed under the sealant

First of all, it should be noted that the seams in wooden frame it can be very, very many - several tens and hundreds. However, there can be quite a lot of space between them. If you start to clog all this with sealant, you will get too much consumption, which will result in huge costs. Well, in the case of using natural ingredients, it is unlikely that you will be able to find so much moss at all.

All this speaks of the need to find something to put under the sealant. Experts say that best material in this case, it is a cord made of polyethylene foam. Such a cord in itself is an excellent sealant, so it will not violate the thermal conductivity.

How to seal cracks in a wooden frame

Consider the process of sealing with modern methods, since there is a forest and a swamp near few houses in order to bring moss. While the same polyurethane sealant and polyethylene foam cord can be purchased at any outlet.

• First of all, we place a cord in the hole between the logs, trying to hammer it there as tightly as possible;
• We glue the edges of the logs masking tape so as not to stain them during the application of the sealant;
• It is best to apply the coating with your fingers. However, if there is not enough experience in this matter, then it is better to use rubber spatula, which will help make the insulation more beautiful.

Conclusion

Log houses can provide the highest quality of life. But only if the technology of their construction is strictly observed. Particular attention must be paid to sealing all seams, as well as proper processing wood in order to increase its fire resistance, moisture resistance and protection against pests. We will cover the latter points in more detail in future articles.

Due to the growing popularity wooden construction sealing seams between logs becomes an urgent repair task. The ways to solve it are quite diverse, both historical methods of sealing and the use of new insulating materials deserve attention.

Renaissance of wooden architecture in modern construction

Throughout the 20th century, the architecture of private houses rapidly mastered various Construction Materials in order to return in the new millennium ... to the time-tested traditional tree. Houses made of massive timber, buildings made of solid logs and rounded beams are not a tribute to fashion - they have solid operational advantages:

• Wood is a natural and "warm" material. In terms of environmental qualities, in terms of a beneficial effect on the well-being of all residents, wooden houses simply have no competitors. It is pleasant and comfortable to be inside such a building, especially if the house is built from softwood logs;
• Impeccable aesthetics and durability. A well-built log cabin will last no less than a capital stone structure, but it will look unique and recognizable, unlike standard brick-concrete “boxes”;
• During the construction of wooden houses, the external and interior decoration laid immediately, even at the stage of building walls. This allows you to save a lot of money and effort on subsequent repairs.. You don't have to perform home decoration with metal siding outside, paste over it with wallpaper from the inside and plaster the facade;
• The naturalness of the tree contributes to the elasticity of the joints, the obligatory sealing of cracks between the timber should not violate this quality. A certain elasticity of the logs and joints themselves allows the whole house to withstand strong temperature changes and ground fluctuations - buildings made of bricks and stone are more likely to crack;
• AT cosmetic repairs a wooden house needs less than others. Its maintenance in an attractive condition and repair is difficult to call. The biggest problem might be patching cracks in timber- but they rarely occur and are completely eliminated on their own. Investments in laying tiles, erection stretch ceilings, the design of the premises with drywall and other expensive repair "pleasures" does not require a house made of logs;
• Wooden walls, even if they are made from the most massive beams, will be thinner than brick and stone ones with comparable durability and strength. This ensures a gain in the interior living space, which is never too much.

Naturally, wooden buildings have their drawbacks, otherwise they would have long ago forced all other building materials into the dustbin of history. Firstly, log cabins have a tangible value. It can be said that savings on subsequent repairs are included in the estimate of capital construction. Secondly, you cannot build such a house on your own - you need a proven company with a qualified staff of designers and craftsmen. Thirdly, to radically change the design of the interior and exterior finish will not work, it will still have a “woody” orientation.

In addition, any wooden houses need sealing cracks. Without such a procedure, drafts will occur in them, residents will start to get sick, bills for the use of thermal energy will reach sky-high heights, comfort and coziness will collapse from the heavenly horizons below a narrow plinth. How and with what to close the seams between logs depends on the requirements for reliability, durability and the desired aesthetics of the joints between logs and beams.

Seal joints between logs - traditional sealing options

Oddly enough, the centuries-old methods of sealing seams in wooden houses remain optimal in our time. Before our ancestors, the question of how to close the cracks in the log house did not stand at all, because the correct answer grew in most forests and copses. This answer is called "natural moss". It perfectly protects the joints and seams not only from the penetration of wind, but also from moisture. Another thing is that finding a sufficient amount of natural moss is not easy, and the sealing itself will be laborious. When using natural materials to seal the gaps between the timber and the logs, a very high packing density is required.

She is tested sharp shoe awl- this tool should enter the compressed moss or tow with almost the same force as a massive log.

Tow for insulating joints in wood can be purchased at a hardware store. The purchase must be made immediately in large quantities, because. even a narrow gap can "absorb" a large amount of tow. natural moss in additional funds does not need amplification - the tow can be impregnated with a liquid, flowing solution of cement or gypsum. High-quality protection of the joints between the logs is provided by natural hemp, and outwardly it looks attractive.

However, the cost of this material is quite high, especially considering the amount of work in the inter-seam finishing of a whole wooden structure. Natural caulk for wood is optimal without additional impregnation. In this case, it can be supplemented with the following layers in a month or a year or two. Tow impregnated with gypsum or cement often crumbles and falls out of the cracks, the work has to be redone. Tow, hemp and moss are hammered into the seams using a set of long chisels, with different widths and blade sharpness. The deeper the paving, the sharper and thinner the chisel blade used.

How to close gaps in a log house - the possibilities of modern sealants

The main benefit of sealing joints in wood with modern sealants is the speed of work. With the help of spray nozzles, the entire process can be completed in a few hours, while with tow or moss you will have to work for several days. A prerequisite for the use of synthetic sealants is the complete shrinkage of the house - and it occurs only 8-12 months after the completion of capital construction.

Whatever sealing composition you choose, it will fly out of the new cracks in a month or two. It turns out that synthetic sealing is possible only if the house is non-residential - you won’t endure drafts and frost inside it for a whole year, right? Sealing joints between logs is categorically incompatible with mounting foam and silicone and polyurethane sealants. They are destroyed under the influence of sunlight and do not prevent the wood from rotting.

It is also forbidden to combine them with natural moss, hemp and tow, such a “hybrid” connection has unacceptably low strength. Synthetic sealant for joints and gaps between logs should be elastic, similar in consistency to glass putty. It is better to select the right brand in accordance with the type of wood and according to the recommendations of the company that built your house. If builders advise natural caulking - alas, you will have to put up with it and take up the laborious procedure for protecting your home.

If you managed to find the optimal synthetic sealant for wooden buildings, then you need to use it complete with mounting tape. By gluing logs/beams on the sides of the gap, you can effectively protect the tree from unnecessary sealing. Excess applied sealant is removed with a rag immediately, without waiting for them to solidify into monolithic sagging.