How to dismantle the old cast-iron sewer yourself? Dismantling of a cast-iron pipe Dismantling of an old cast-iron sewer

Do you need to remove the sewer system? You can try to do it yourself, but you risk losing your for a long time without the necessary amenities if something goes wrong. The best way out of this situation is to call professional installers who specialize in this matter. For modern Moscow, this is absolutely not a problem. One such company where you can find good specialists, and is "Network Service".

Our company has been working in this direction for quite a long time and for long years has already established itself as a team good professionals. Depending on the specifics of the premises, two types of sewage are distinguished: domestic and industrial. Both types of systems have their own characteristics, which means that both types will also differ. Of course, it is more difficult both to carry out and to remove.

Professional drain removal

Such service with pleasure and all responsibility will be offered to you in our company. We carry out the removal, subsequent installation and on the highest level. General system sewerage consists of an external system and an internal one. Dismantling internal system sewerage begins with the removal of the following parts:

• toilets and sinks
• sinks and shower trays
• water collectors

All these elements are connected not only with the sewerage system, but also with the water supply. But there are also elements that relate exclusively to sewers - these are exits to external sewerage. Traditionally is preparatory stage to installation new system sewers, so you need to carry out all work with high quality and as accurately as possible.

How to remove the sewer efficiently and accurately

If we are talking about the removal of external sewage, then the process begins with the dismantling of manholes. They are most often made of concrete, but if the well is to be dismantled from monolithic reinforced concrete, installers will have to spend a large number of strength and energy. As for the time spent on it, it depends on the complexity of the design and the amount of work.

The same can be said about the cost of dismantling - until the specialists go to the site and assess the complexity of the work ahead and its volume, it is difficult to determine how much they will cost the customer. We hasten to note that the removal of the system in the "Network Service" company can only please with prices - they are always democratic with us.

It is especially difficult to dismantle the sewerage system, which consists of pipes made of cast iron or ceramics. Here you need to have not only theoretical knowledge on how best to dismantling works but also certain skills and experience. The slightest oversight is enough to destroy not only your sewerage system, but also your neighbor's (if you live in a multi-storey building).

We will help you to remove the sewer

In order not to worry about your sewage system, call the experts who will allow you to save not only time, but also nerves. Ordered quite frequently now. dismantling of the sewerage system in private houses that are redeemed and then remodeled. In this case, most likely, the cast-iron pipes will be replaced with plastic ones, and this seems simple only at first glance.

Considering that the removal of the sewer system is a set of actions that is absolutely opposite to its installation, the sequence of work will be different. For example, during the dismantling process, toilet bowls, washbasins and other plumbing fixtures in the house will be removed, and then exits to the external sewer will be removed. Please note that during the dismantling process may be destroyed to some extent wall coverings, so it is better to plan dismantling work on the eve of a major or at least cosmetic repair.

When a person does overhaul in your apartment, then this type of work, such as replacing the sewer system, is one of the main ones. This is due to the fact that in most cases cast-iron pipes are installed in residential premises.

Which tool will be used to dismantle the sewer elements with your own hands depends on the material used for embossing.

Basically on hand should be:

Caulking tool

• grinder - used to cut a piece of pipe;
• cutting, grinding discs;
• protective mask, goggles, headgear (in case of chasing pipes connected with sulfur);
• blowtorch - required for heating;
• hammer, screwdrivers various lengths and thickness;
• pipe wrench;
• chisel.

Bulgarian and blowtorch

If you are dealing with cast iron elements, then the arsenal should include: a puncher, a chisel / steel wedge, a crowbar or a nail puller, a pipe cutter, an iron bucket filled with water.

Before you start work, it does not hurt to draw up an action plan, which depends on how the sewer pipes are connected.

Perforator

How is cast iron disassembled?

If you are going to completely dismantle the cast-iron pipe structure in order to replace it with a plastic one, you can break it with a hammer.

This will not be difficult, because the material itself is very fragile. But if you plan to disassemble a specific part, then you should resort to more loyal methods.

Before you disassemble the cast-iron sewer, you need to inspect the entire system and clearly determine which area needs repair.

After that, the water supply is turned off, respectively, no drains will fall into the sewer.

cut off desired area pipes

• a section is cut off that section of the pipe that is below the connection;
• then the pipe and socket must be separated. The methods of embossing will be described below;
• if the connection is difficult to dismantle, then a blowtorch can be used or surrounding cuts are made 20 mm long.

Dismantling cast iron sewerage using a lamp

Considering that dismantling a cast-iron sewer with your own hands can be traumatic, do not neglect the protective equipment and safety rules.

Chasing pipes connected with sulfur

Replacing the sewer, the constituent parts of which were connected with sulfur during installation, begins with the following actions:

Chasing pipes connected with sulfur

• shutdown of water supply;
• disconnecting the hose that leads to the toilet flush barrel;
• completely remove the plumbing fixture by unscrewing the bolts;
• free the bathroom from furniture and appliances.

The best way to tell if sulfur has been used or not is to hold a blowtorch near the pipe.

The characteristic of sulfur is that high temperatures it begins to melt, which is accompanied by the appearance of an unpleasant odor.

How to dismantle a cast-iron sewer:

Removal of residual sulfur and cooling of the tee

As you can see, figuring out how to dismantle a cast-iron sewer is not difficult at all.

Most importantly, do not forget to remove the remaining sulfur from the riser and let it cool.

If the cast iron system turned out to be seriously strong, then you can make cuts around the pipe that needs to be removed. This will make it easier to remove it from the riser. Failed to disassemble the pipeline?

Just connect it to plastic pipes, and this can be done using transitional couplings.

The process of dismantling pipes connected with cement and cable

When discussing how to disassemble an old cast-iron sewer connected with cement, it is worth noting that the process is not much different from the above, but is safer.

This is explained by the fact that sulfur emits carbon monoxide during melting.

And it all starts with a cut of a certain part cast iron pipe, for which you need to retreat from the points of separation by about 30 cm.

The hardened cement is knocked down with a hammer, which needs to be beaten on a screwdriver inserted into the hole.

Dismantling the connection with cement and cable

It is important to know that you should not rush into this matter, because you can damage the bell.

After breaking the cement at the joints:

• you should try to loosen the main pipe. If you are interested in how to disassemble a cast-iron sewer without heating, then know that it is allowed to remove the cable;
• if even without a cable it is not possible to loosen the pipe, then strong heating will help or special key. For example, for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, you need tool No. 3, No. 4, but for a tee, you need another pipe.

From time to time, the pipeline wears out under the influence of mechanical stress and it is necessary to replace the sewer pipes in the apartment. Most often, residents of old houses face such a problem, where cast-iron pipes rust over the years, cracks appear and leaks occur.

To change the drain lines, you must first properly dismantle the old pipes. Successful completion of the task requires the availability of appropriate plumbing tools and the necessary accessories.

Dismantling of worn-out elements of the sewer line

In order to repair the sewer in the apartment, it is necessary first of all to identify the location of wear. If there are major damage branch lines, it is enough just to turn off the water supply in the apartment, remove plumbing fixtures and proceed to remove the worn area. If a sewer riser needs to be replaced, it is necessary to coordinate your actions with your neighbors in advance, because the water supply will have to be shut off for them too. It is difficult to calculate the exact time how much sewer pipes will be repaired in advance. However proper preparation and adherence to the planned plan guarantees the successful completion of the process.

Removal of damaged sewer sections consists of the following steps:

1. Shutting off the water supply to the apartment or to the entire riser.
2. Device shutdowns drain tank in the toilet. To carry out the dismantling of the flush tank, it is necessary to disconnect the water supply hose.
3. Removing the toilet. The process is quite laborious, you will need to free the base of the toilet. Sometimes just unscrewing the bolts is enough, but sometimes you have to remove a layer of tiles around the toilet leg. Dismantling the toilet must be done using special tool: wrench, chisels, hammers.
4. Dismantling of the sewer system. Old pipes are not subject to reuse, so they can be dismantled using physical force and a hammer without regret.
5. If the replacement of sewer pipes will be carried out only in your apartment, the next step will be to cut the riser with a grinder.
   

   Attention! During the removal of the old riser, it is not necessary to completely cut the pipe with a grinder, since its upper edge can pinch the disk and deform the tool.

6. The incised pipe should be carefully removed with a hammer and chisel.
7. You can try to remove the lower part of the drainage system near the riser by simply swinging it to the sides. If this manipulation does not lead to the desired result, you will need to make incisions with a grinder. How many cuts to make on the pipe is not so important. The main thing is to achieve its split in order to further remove individual fragments.
8. Clean the socket from grease, cement residues and other contaminants, prepare for installation.

Installation of sewer pipes in the apartment

Replacing the sewer in the apartment begins with the most critical element - the riser. Most often the owners modern apartments decide to change sewer riser from cast iron to plastic. This choice is fully justified by the high operational characteristics and simple installation of the device.

If you are installing for the first time and do not know the exact measurements, you can perform a preliminary fitting of the pipe in order to find out, in case of a mismatch, how many centimeters you need to cut off more. Cut plastic products It's easy, it only takes a few minutes. Before installation work you need to prepare the following components:

• Rubber cuff;
• Plastic tee;
• Plastic pipes with a diameter of 110 mm;
• Compensator;
• Stand fasteners.

Stages of installation of a sewer riser:

1. The rubber cuff is inserted into the socket of the cast-iron pipe.
2. If the pipe diameter is different, it is necessary to use a special branch pipe - compensator.
3. Insert the sewer pipe into the attachment points.
4. Pipe ends are lubricated liquid soap to facilitate the process.
5. The installed riser must be fixed to the wall using special fasteners.

Important! The sewer riser must be secured to prevent deformation under pressure.

Installation of internal wiring

After the installation of the riser, it is necessary to change the internal wiring in the apartment. The work rules include the following recommendations:

1. Wiring is carried out from the central riser to plumbing fixtures(toilet, sink).
2. It is necessary to install not only rigid, but also movable elements of the pipeline. Movable elements made of corrugated pipe, take off internal stress systems.
3. The sockets should be positioned towards the movement of waste water, this reduces the risk of leakage.
4. Sewerage should be installed with a slope towards the drainage.
5. To drain water from the toilet, a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used.
6. For everyone else plumbing devices it is necessary to use a pipeline with a diameter of 50 mm.

After installing the drainage system Wastewater, the drain tank is connected and a test run is performed. Correct work the drain tank depends on the competent connection to the toilet and the tightness of the connection with the supply pipe. There are also models of a cistern that must be fixed to the wall. All necessary accessories for installation, as a rule, are supplied with the equipment. Also, the drain tank device can be hidden inside drywall construction, which will give aesthetics to the restroom.

Compliance simple recommendations for laying the network for drainage guarantees the reliable functioning of all plumbing fixtures in the apartment, the absence of leaks, extraneous noise and odors. If there are difficulties in carrying out the work on your own, you can call qualified specialists.

Do-it-yourself sewer replacement in an apartment

Interesting on the topic:

Attention! The dismantling of a cast-iron sewer riser refers to plumbing work increased complexity. Sufficient experience with power tools and strict adherence to safety measures are required. Soberly assess your capabilities. In case of failure, you will flood the neighbors and, possibly, not at all with water, injure your hands, ruin your eyes, or start a fire.

It makes sense to change the riser only when new plastic pipes out of your bathroom. But usually neighbors do not give permission to carry out such work. Nevertheless, consider the option of replacing a standard sewer riser with a diameter of 100 mm with the replacement of a tee or cross located near the base of the floor, they look something like this:

1. Tee 2. Left cross 3. Right cross.

Necessary tools and materials:

1. Perforator;
2. Chisel, hammer;
3. Strong knife;
4. A small "Bulgarian";
5. 3-4 cutting discs with a diameter of 125 mm and 1 grinding;
6. Old chisel, Several screwdrivers of different widths, lengths and sharpness;
7. Goggles, respirator, headgear;
8. Steel wedge for breaking parts of a pipe made of cast iron;
9. two wrenches;
10. a large nail puller or small crowbar to use as leverage.
11. Pipe cutter for cast iron pipes. The use of such a pipe cutter will significantly speed up and simplify the process of dismantling the sewer, but such a pipe cutter is expensive, and is rarely used on the farm.
12. Old iron bucket half full cold water;

First you need to determine how the cast iron parts were connected, first of all, a tee (1) or a cross (2,3) with a socket ( shaped part) pipes located in the lower floor. To do this, carefully clean the junction, usually it is above the floor level. But if you've ever made an additional screed or laid tiles on the floor, the connection may be below the level of the existing floor, in which case a hammer drill or chisel may be needed. Work with both a puncher and a chisel should be very careful not to damage the socket of the pipe remaining in the ceiling.

Docking could be done with caulking the seams with the usual cement-sand mortar, cement mortar, polymer cement mortar and - the worst option - filling the joint with sulfur. Open with an old chisel or sharp screwdriver upper layer the seam between the tee (cross) and the shaped part of the pipe located in the lower ceiling in order to get to the sealant. If it feels hard to the touch and the chisel slides over the surface with an unpleasant squeak, reminiscent of the sound when you run a knife on glass, then you may very well have come across sulfur. To be sure, try to pick out a sample and try to set it on fire. If the scooped out sample ignites, burns with a blue flame and at the same time caustic gas is released, then you are out of luck - it is sulfur. Then you will need

Additional tools and materials:

1. Metal, but asbestos shields are better for protection against open fire flammable items;
2. Gas burner or blowtorch:
3. Several gas masks, it is better not to undertake such work alone.

• Before starting work, it is necessary, if possible, to remove all flammable and breakable objects from the bathroom, dismantle the toilet bowl, dismantle the pipes of the apartment sewerage system (if you have not already done so). If plastic water pipes(and it usually doesn’t happen otherwise) pass next to the sewer riser, then they should be securely covered with sheets of non-combustible material. If for some reason this cannot be done, then the pipes should be cut off and restored at the end of the work.
• If there are others above your apartment, then it is necessary to warn the neighbors so that they do not use the sewer during the work. How more apartments above you and the more pensioners and children live in them, the more difficult it is to do.
• Before starting work, empty your pockets of unnecessary things that interfere with normal work. keys to the apartment, mobile phone, a lighter, cigarettes can accidentally fall out of your pocket during work and, most unpleasantly, fall into the riser.

Work should be carried out in a respirator, headgear and goggles.

Work performance technology:

1. Cutting the riser.

Cut the pipe with a pipe cutter. If there is no pipe cutter, make two almost horizontal cuts along the perimeter of the pipe with a "grinder" at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from one another approximately in the middle of the riser. In this case, the conditional planes of the cuts should not be parallel, but converge on the edge of the pipe near the wall where you did not cut the pipe. It is not recommended to cut the pipe to the end, since the upper part of the pipe can sag and pinch the disk, while the disk, grinder, water risers, tile on the walls or your hands.

By driving a special wedge into the cuts on the right and left, you can separate and remove the cut ring. If you do not have a special wedge, then you can additionally make two vertical cuts on the ring that appears after making horizontal cuts. Again, it is advisable not to cut the cuts to the end, so that the cut piece of pipe does not fall into the sewer. Then, using a screwdriver or chisel, carefully break out the cut piece so that it does not fall into the sewer, and knock out the remaining pieces of the ring with a hammer.

Close the hole in the pipe with a wedge of rags.

2. Trimming the top of the pipe.

Cut the top piece of pipe to the estimated height. For later installation plastic sewer you need to leave a piece of pipe coming out of top floor with a height equal to the height of the fitting to be pressed during installation. Determine the required height, make a cut with a "grinder" (if there is no pipe cutter) around the pipe. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the notch plane is as perpendicular as possible to the pipe itself. If you stick near the notch line masking tape so that the end of the adhesive tape exactly overlaps the beginning, then you will thus get a line perpendicular to the axis of the pipe and greatly simplify the task.

Sharply, with a blow, press the bottom of the pipe towards the wall. Cast iron is a brittle material and should crack at the narrowest point, where you did not cut the pipe with a grinder. Here, in addition to skill, strength is also required - a one and a half meter piece of thick-walled cast iron is quite heavy. The success of this operation depends on the depth of the cut and on the distance of the pipe from the wall, the farther the pipe is from the wall, the easier it is to do. If the pipe is cut at least three-quarters of the perimeter, and the cut bottom of the pipe is at least 3 cm from the wall, then everything should end successfully. In rare cases, when the pipe is located closer to the wall, an incision should be made 10 - 15 cm below the established mark. Then dismantle the bottom piece sewer pipe using a special wedge, and only then make an incision in the marked place. From the bottom cut, the pipe is carefully cut upwards, then the resulting piece is cut horizontally along the mark, each cut sector is removed. The last piece of the pipe, located near the wall, is cut "from the inside" of the pipe by a "grinder" without a protective casing.

Preparation for installation of the upper part of the pipe. "Bulgarian" with grinding disc the cut of the pipe is trimmed and a conical chamfer is removed around the entire perimeter.

3. Removal of the lower piece of cast-iron pipe from the socket, which is concreted into the floor, if the joint is not filled with sulfur.

The lower section of the sewer riser usually consists of several parts or fittings. The design may include a cast-iron revision, a coupling, an expansion pipe, etc. First, check the strength of the connection. To do this, try to download upper part pipes. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the lower socket. If the pipe wobbles even a little, you are in luck - carefully pull out all the dangling parts. If the tee (cross) "moves" at least a little at the joint, then you can gently loosen it (it) and remove it with the help of a crowbar or a nail puller. If the tee or cross is fixed very rigidly, you need to clear the joint to the maximum depth, periodically checking the possibility of rocking. If the width of the joint allows, then you can use a puncher with a thin drill, preferably without a victorious tip. The solution at the joint is carefully hollowed out along the perimeter, the remains of the solution are removed with a screwdriver or chisel. The worst option is if there is almost no seam and the tee (cross) is held very firmly. In this case, you can try to clear the seam with a piece of old canvas for metal. But if you feel that this does not give a result, and are determined to change the tee (cross), then there is only one thing left - cut the tee (cross) 2-3 cm above the socket. Close the hole in the riser with a wedge of rags; for insurance, tie the rags with a rope so that the pipe cuts do not fall into the sewer riser. Then, carefully working with a "grinder" with removed protection, as much as possible cut through the pipe cut remaining in the socket under different angles inclination of the disk without damaging the socket of the pipe remaining in the ceiling. Remove the remains of the pipe inside the socket using a special wedge.

4. Removal of a tee or cross, if the joint is filled with sulfur.

The tee or cross itself is not cut off, but you need to completely cut off the large socket of the cross or tee with a diameter of 100 mm, this will allow you to put the working part of the blowtorch into the pipe, and thereby ensure the necessary heating of the pipe. A shield made of asbestos or metal is laid on top of the pipe. This will allow you to adjust the draft in the riser. If there are through holes in the lower ceiling near the socket, for example, left after the installation of a water pipe, then through these holes the molten sulfur can enter the bathroom of the lower apartment, and in the worst case, on the neighbor's head. To avoid conflict situations such holes must be sealed with a gypsum or cement-sand mortar before starting work; in extreme cases, for very small gaps, you can use mineral wool. It is advisable to plug the riser with a wedge of non-combustible material so that as much as possible less sulfur got into the stand. Warming up is desirable to perform evenly, and as often as possible to change the direction and angle of the torch. With sudden heating, even a whole bell can burst, if you hear a loud bang, you know you succeeded, although there is nothing to congratulate here. This does not happen often, only if the pipe was cast from low quality cast iron. Nevertheless, if the width of the groove allows, then before starting work it is recommended to drill out the sulfur fill as much as possible with a drill without a winning tip, you can also use a drill with long drill to relieve potential stress. When heated, molten sulfur will flow into the riser or pour out. When cooled, sulfur quickly hardens. Hardened pieces should preferably be removed to the side, away from open flames. It is not necessary to use a gas mask before the sulfur ignites. But remember that with strong heating, the sulfur melt can boil in a closed volume and splash out, so goggles when working with gas burner or blowtorch necessary. From time to time, check the mobility of the tee (cross) by swinging or hitting a hammer with different parties. As soon as the backlash appears, stop heating and pull out the tee either by swinging it, lift it up with your hands, or grab it with two adjustable wrenches. The edges of the tee (cross) at the point of capture can break, so you need to be careful.

If burning sulfur remains on the tee (cross), then lower the tee into an iron bucket of cold water. Clean the inside of the pipe socket in the lower ceiling from the remnants of sulfur, cable, soot with an old chisel or a sharp, strong knife.