Step-by-step instructions for making a ship model. Drawings of ships from plywood: materials, preparation for work, cutting and assembling parts, finishing

In modeling, plywood is the most popular material. This is due to high quality indicators, as well as ease of operation. Plywood sheets are very easy to cut, quite simply processed. Using suitable scheme(drawing), you can make ships out of plywood with your own hands.

Plywood is versatile material which is easy to cut and process different ways, therefore, it is with plywood patterns that it is recommended to start your acquaintance with modeling.

Building a ship on your own is quite an interesting activity. But in order to start performing complex models, you need to practice on easier ones.

Materials and tools

To create stucco patterns on board the ship, you need to prepare your own composition from which reliefs can be formed. For the solution, it is necessary to prepare the following tools and materials:

  • wood dust;
  • PVA glue (on average, one ship model can take about half a liter of glue);
  • plasticine to create small irregularities and patterns;

Materials and tools that are used during ship modeling:

Birch plywood will ensure a minimum number of chips when sawing.

  • plywood of the required thickness;
  • Super glue;
  • sandpaper for surface treatment;
  • kapron thread;
  • jigsaw for cutting parts;
  • construction knife;
  • mast wood. It is better to use pine, as it is much easier to process;
  • dye;
  • small brushes;
  • Chinese sticks;
  • fabric for sails;
  • a thread;
  • pencil ruler.

Modeling wood should be soft, not fibrous. The most popular option is cedar, linden, walnut. All wooden blanks must be perfectly even, without knots and damage. It can be used as additional element to create decorative pieces. Also, wood can be used to create the main elements of the model, such as the deck, hull.

Plywood in modeling is the most demanded material. In such a direction as modeling, birch or balsa plywood is most often used. This is due to the fact that these types of wood practically do not give chips during sawing. To make a boat out of plywood, you need to use sheets with a thickness of 0.8-2 mm.

A simple diagram of a plywood ship model.

Veneer - sheet material, very thin, made of precious wood. In most cases, veneer is used as facing material. They paste over products that are made of inexpensive material.

Fasteners will perform not only the main task of fastening parts, but also perform decorative role. To create a boat model, you need to prepare thin chains (several sizes can be used), laces, threads, copper or brass studs. In order to transfer the drawing from sheet to plywood, it is best to use tracing paper and a pencil. So the drawing will turn out detailed. Glue must be used to fasten the plywood parts. Fine detailing can be made by metal casting, use polymer clay or independently prepare a solution of wood dust and PVA glue. After complete drying, such a mass is very durable, and it can be painted in the desired color.

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Preparatory work

If you are modeling a plywood ship for the first time, it is recommended to purchase kits in which all the details are already cut and processed. But its cost can sometimes be quite high. Therefore, with great desire and diligence, experience can be gained in the process of assembling your ship. Modeling, like any other type of work, necessarily begins with the preparatory stage. The first thing to start with is what kind of ship will be modeled. To begin with, it is worth looking at various drawings and finished work, this will greatly facilitate the choice of model.

Having studied the drawing completely, it is worth checking the presence of all necessary materials and tools to get the job done. Modeling ships is a piece of jewelry. It takes a lot of time and perseverance.

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to make paper or cardboard templates all the details. After that, they are all transferred to plywood. On this preparatory stage work can be considered completed.

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Parts manufacturing

In order to make all the details, cut them out of a plywood sheet, you must use the appropriate tool. For work, you can use manual jigsaw, but if possible, it is better to use an electric model option. Using the second option will significantly reduce the time to manufacture all the elements. This is especially true for the most small parts.

Sawn blanks are processed with a file, removing chips and burrs.

In order to cut the part, a hole is made in the plywood into which the jigsaw file is located. It is worth cutting out all the details very carefully, while observing all the contour boundaries, since inaccurately cut details can then ruin appearance the entire ship. Each sawn workpiece must be processed with a file from the ends. In the process of such cleaning, it is necessary to remove a small part of the chamfer where chips and burrs have formed. When cutting, this moment cannot be avoided.

It is necessary to assemble the ship when all the details are cut out and the ends are processed. This will allow you to do assembly work without being distracted by cutting out the missing parts.

Making models of ships is the oldest of man's "technical hobbies": for almost six thousand years, people have been perpetuating their ships in miniature. The oldest of the models found during excavations - a ritual silver boat with oars from a tomb in Mesopotamia - archaeologists attribute to the beginning of the fourth millennium BC.

Russian professional ship modeling is much younger, but it has already equaled three centuries. The manufacture of ship models began with the Petrovsky "model-chamber", in which the "Admiralty" models of all new ships under construction were stored. These were exact detailed copies of the construction of the hulls with partially removed skin, which served as visual aids for ship carpenters, poorly versed in the drawings.

In fact, Peter I himself was the first serious Russian modeller. At the age of seventeen, returning from the "Great Embassy" in Europe, he built such a model of a frigate. By Peter's decree, all models were kept as samples for posterity. From the collection of this very "chamber", located on the site of the current fountain in front of the Admiralty, at one time the collection of our Naval Museum began.

Probably, many, and even more so those living in St. Petersburg, with its history and traditions, at least once, but there was a desire to build a model of some kind of sailing ship with their own hands. However, without the necessary skills and tools, this can hardly be done at home, guided by special literature and ship modeling sites. The technologies described there are often quite complex, require special equipment, materials, and almost always require some experience, so making a ship is not an easy task. As a result, someone whose skills are limited to school labor lessons and folding paper boats work, rather discourage desire than form interest. It can be hard to come up with guidelines that will help you create something significant by starting from scratch. But still, if desired, it is quite possible to build a decent enough model, having the simplest tools available in any house where there is a man "with hands", and minimum set material. You just need to initially set yourself up for the fact that everything will work out, definitely (!), But almost never - right away. That a failed operation, screwing up a part (it’s good if there’s only one!) Is the norm, the necessary experience gained, and not an emergency at all.
Serious professional modelers, whose work, sometimes worth tens of thousands of dollars, take first place at international exhibitions, as a rule, have a rather skeptical attitude towards models made of papier-mâché. It is understandable - paper, even well glued, will still remain paper. But for someone who is trying their hand at modeling for the first time, this technique will be the most preferable. She does not require any expensive materials, no tools, but as a workplace allows you to limit yourself simple table with a piece of plywood placed on it and a grate for the bathroom, so as not to dust in the room. It's great if there is an electric drill with a tripod that can be installed on fresh air. But if not, then the above conditions will allow you to start, and most importantly, finish your first model. All the models presented in these photographs - from the Roman galley to the armored cruiser - were built using this technology and under such conditions. Fifteen years ago, after an injury, suddenly finding himself isolated from environment, I had to remember my childhood hobby and try to turn it into a profession. After re-reading a fair amount of literature, I realized that none of the techniques given there in their pure form suits me. As a result of many trials and experiments over the years, a technology has developed that allows you to work independently of any external circumstances. However, with all the accessibility of the method, it still does not hurt to get something before starting work. The most important thing, of course, is what and how it will all be built. So, what is needed in order to make a ship out of wood:1.1

MATERIALS

array- i.e. ordinary wood, necessary primarily for the manufacture of spars. For mast columns, pine slats of the appropriate section are best suited. Birch is worse: it is more difficult to choose even segments from it and more difficult to process. The thinner parts of the masts - topmasts and flagpoles, yards, the rest of the spars are perfectly obtained from birch skewers for barbecue, which can sometimes be bought in various super-hyper-markets. It is worth noting that they are different thickness: came across 3.5 and 3 and 1.8 mm. For the smallest details, it is good to use wooden toothpicks. Other wooden details; in theory, and in theory, made from solid wood, it is easier and better to get from veneer of the corresponding species glued together by "Moment" in 2-3 layers.

Glue. Optimal - furniture PVA. Proven - Novgorod PVA-M "Akron". If you don't have one, another will do. The main thing is that the appointment should indicate "for gluing" wood products, and not "for gluing" - this one holds much worse. When buying, ask to try - glue, squeezing with a clothespin, two pieces of veneer, wait 30 minutes until it dries and try to tear it apart. If the glue is good, the veneer will break, but not the glue. In addition, apply a smear on the surface - a matte, but absolutely uniform, transparent, without a milky tint, film should form. Estonian PVA is good, but sometimes it does not stick to our dried-up one, it falls off. Those. having started working with one, it is better to continue with it. And, of course, the ordinary "Moment" is also indispensable.
Varnishes, paints. Lacquer is best suited "Aqua" - ie. on the water based. Dries quickly, does not leave stains on paper and cardboard. And, which is essential when working in an apartment, it practically does not smell. It makes sense to purchase both colorless and tinted under dark wood at once. Paints - after trying several options, I settled on acrylics. Of these, the most necessary is gold. Proven - "Inca Gold". Where possible, it is easier to stick on the above mentioned instead of staining. colored paper. In general, in the traditions of the Russian model school, coloring of models was not very common. Unlike Europe, where they strived for 100% similarity with the original even in shades, in Russia they tried to select valuable wood species so that their color, if not exactly, approximately, would correspond to the color of the painted original.

Fabric and thread. Any white cotton fabric is suitable for sails. Naturally than thinner thread and the tighter the weave, the better. The main thing is that there should be no admixture of synthetics, otherwise it will not stick well. The same applies to threads. Pure cotton, however, is now difficult to find, but if the percentage of synthetics is small, then you can try them. For standing rigging, black threads are needed, for running rigging, light beige is better. In terms of thickness, all possible numbers will come in handy: from the maximum - 10 or even 0, if you can find it, up to 40 - 50. In the literature, it is sometimes recommended to tint the fabric with a weak solution of tea for reliability. I tried it - I didn't like it: it may be more reliable, but pure white sails look much nicer. And here are the threads, if not found desired color, it is better to slightly tint with wood stain.

Wire and foil- preferably copper or brass, but any will do, even from tubes. Small carnations, plasticine, self-adhesive film, etc. - far from an exhaustive list, new ideas can come to mind at any time during the entire work.

INSTRUMENTS

In addition to the standard set of tools that do not need commentary, such as a planer, pliers, wire cutters, a screwdriver, clamps in pairs - bigger and smaller, a hammer, a hacksaw, chisels, etc., there are several specific things that should be mentioned separately .Electric drill. If you have an idea to get down to business seriously, not limited to one trial copy, you should definitely get a drill. It is advisable to choose more powerful - 500 watts, no less. Very good if with a tripod and with adjustable speed. Extremely useful thing - grinding disc. Those. not a grinder (it won’t hurt either), but a grinding one - on the plane of which you can fix the skin. Saws. A jigsaw is a useful, although not essential thing. A hacksaw will come in handy sooner (albeit for working with wood). It is good to have two canvases for it: small and large. Files. four or five pieces different shapes and notches are worth having, but, from my own experience, they are the main and almost irreplaceable - flat, small, the largest you can find. It's also nice to have a set of needle files. Knives. He made his most beloved and necessary knife (pictured) 25 years ago from canvas for metal. There are no such things on sale. Without it, there is no work - only they can cut veneer into strips with high quality. It was five centimeters longer (!) - it was worn off ... So, if you do the same, then with a margin in length. When choosing a canvas for the blade, try to bend it: if it remains bent, it is too soft. If it breaks, it will fit. From the wreckage and make. Take the blade longer: so that it passes almost through the entire handle. The rounding at the end of the handle is also not accidental: it is convenient for them to grind the parts that are glued (especially on the "Moment"), and simply smooth out the bumps.
Pay attention to the sharpening - it is one-sided, while it is sharpened Right side blades - i.e., if you cut them along the ruler, leading like a pencil, then the flat side is pressed against the ruler, and the ground off chamfer is turned away from the ruler. Blade angle - about 30, sharpening - 15-20. From the same canvas it is worth making small thin incisors, such as chisels, different widths: 4, 6, 8, 12mm - although not immediately, but gradually everything will come in handy somewhere. You can find on sale sets for woodcarving with semicircular incisors. They, too, sooner or later, but they will definitely be needed. Shilo. Ordinary shoe. But one more thing you will have to do yourself - from a long thin nail or from a thick sewing needle(conveniently from the machine) on a long (15-20cm) handle. Well, since we are talking here, a set sewing needles different sizes will also be needed. Brushes. It is worth starting a dozen and a half at once - of all sizes: from 2 to 20 mm, of different stiffness for different needs. Sometimes instead of a brush for glue when small jobs convenient to use thin wire attached to a stick.
Scissors. It is worth having at least two, and preferably three pairs: separately for fabric, for foil, and for paper, veneer and cardboard. Grinding skin. A minimum of three numbers are required: from the largest for leveling the body workpiece for veneering to the smallest for grinding for finishing. Well, the middle one is for intermediate work. Whetstones for cutters - it is worth getting three pieces, including the smallest whetstone for final fine-tuning.
Little things - necessary, and simply convenient to work with: drawing utensils, large tweezers, small pliers with long thin lips, clothespins, rubber bands "for money", a crochet hook, a table vise, a transparent 50cm plexiglass ruler, indelible black and brown markers, wood stain. But you never know what else can come up with a creative approach to business!
And go ahead. So, having acquired all of the above, or being sure that you will get what you need at the right time, you can, inspired, proceed! Where to get drawings, I will not advise - there is a lot of literature, the Internet is huge and dynamic - sites are born and die. And I myself have not been interested in this direction lately ... In any case, since you got here, you can get to the drawings. Study several projects of different ships, comparing their designs, details. Often the details missing in one kit are perfectly presented in another - for a similar ship of the same class, and vice versa. It is worth reading their stories. It's good when the debut is not the first thing that catches your eye, but the fact that as a result of the selection you like more than anyone else - it will be much more interesting to work. Such a model is much more likely to be finished - it's a pity to leave it unfinished ... Well, let's start, of course, with the body.
Author - Dmitry Kopilov
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For lovers of modeling, sheets of pressed and glued wood veneer have always been one of the most sought-after materials. They are easy to cut, perfectly processed, drawings of ships made of plywood are easy to find on the net, and therefore many craftsmen begin their acquaintance with the modeling of various ships with plywood patterns.


Making models with your own hands is a very difficult task, requiring a significant amount of knowledge and a certain skill. In the article we will talk only about the most basic techniques, and you will hone your further skills yourself.

Work materials

If you want to make a small ship model, you will need the following materials:

  • Wood - cedar, linden, walnut or other wood, preferably soft and not fibrous. Wood blanks should be smooth, without knots and damage. Wood can be used both as a material for the main elements of the model (hull, deck), and for fine detailing.
  • Plywood is perhaps the most sought after material.. For ship modeling, either balsa or birch is used, since it is these types of wood that provide the minimum number of chips when sawing. Model ship plywood, as a rule, has a thickness of 0.8 to 2 mm.

Note! Sheets of beech veneer of small thickness are sometimes used as an alternative to birch veneer: although they are inferior in strength, they bend much more easily.

  • Veneer - thin plates natural wood expensive breeds. As a rule, it is used for veneering, i.e. pasting of a surface from inexpensive material.
  • Fasteners - thin chains, laces, threads, brass and copper studs.

In addition, we will definitely need wood glue, cardboard and tracing paper for transferring templates, etc. Fine detailing is made of metal casting. As an alternative to metal, colored polymer clay can be used.

Making a souvenir boat

Preparation for work

Any work begins with preparation, and modeling will by no means be an exception.

  • First we need to decide what we will build. If you have not dealt with ship modeling art before, then we recommend downloading plywood ship drawings on the net: as a rule, they contain all necessary information and understandable even to a beginner.

Note! Kits are available for sale that allow you to assemble a vessel from finished parts. For beginners, such kits will be interesting (although the price of most of them is very significant), but it’s better to master the technology from the basics.

  • After analyzing the drawing, we check whether everything you need is available. In principle, if something is missing, then it will be possible to buy it a little later, because building a ship (albeit a miniature one) is not a quick job!

  • After printing the drawing, we make templates for the main parts.
  • Transferring templates to .

Cutting and assembling parts

You can cut blanks both with the help of a manual and with the help of an electric model jigsaw.

The latter is more expensive, but with it you are less tormented when cutting out small details:

  • We make a starting hole in the plywood sheet, into which we insert a file or a jigsaw blade.
  • We cut out the part, trying to move exactly along the marked contour.
  • We process the sawn workpiece with a file, removing small chamfers along the edges and removing the inevitable chips and burrs.

Advice! Working on one element (deck, sides, keel, etc.), we immediately cut out all the parts necessary for assembly. So we will spend much less time, and the work will move faster.


When everything is ready, we start assembling our ship.


  • First, on the longitudinal beam - the keel - we put on the transverse frames. In the lower part of each frame, a groove is usually provided for fastening to a plywood keel.
  • For connection, you can use standard glue, or you can use special adhesive mixtures designed for ship modeling.
  • We attach the upper parts of the frames to the deck. For simple models, the deck is a single sheet of plywood, while for complex ones it can be multi-level.
  • After the glue on the frames dries, we begin to sheathe the sides with thin strips of plywood. The thickness of the material should be no more than 1.5 mm, because only in this case we will be able to bend the skin without the risk of damaging it.
  • For bending can be heated and humidified. After that, the material will bend without difficulty, and over time it will acquire a stable shape.

Note! The case for painting can be pasted over with a solid sheet. But to imitate plank sheathing, it is better to use strips up to 10 mm wide (depending on the scale).


  • We fix the glued plywood with clamps and clamps and leave to dry.

Finishing

By by and large, On this carpentry ends and art begins.

When the case is assembled and dried, we need:


  • Increase the sides so that they protrude above the deck plane.
  • Paste deck surface wood veneer or draw with an awl, imitating plank sheathing.
  • Make and install all the small parts like the steering wheel and steering blade.
  • Fasten the masts with all additional devices(the so-called spars), set the sails and stretch this entire structure with the help of rigging threads.

In conclusion, all plywood parts must be stained and varnished. This will provide our souvenir with at least a couple of decades of preservation.

Conclusion


Almost everyone can make a simple boat out of plywood with their own hands - enough patience and minimal skills in working with a jigsaw (read also the article). But if you want to implement a complex drawing with many small details, then you will have to work hard. That's why we advise you to start with the simplest models, gradually increasing your skills!

In the presented video in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

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Sailing ships are divided into frigates and battleships. The most powerful three-masted ships are battleships, which are characterized by displacement, armament and crew strength.

This class of sailboats dates back to the seventeenth century, with the advent of artillery (cannons), able to conduct a linear battle (simultaneously from all onboard guns from the sideline).
In an abbreviated version, they are called "battleships".





Drawings of models can be downloaded for free, on the website or from other sources.

In May 1715, the Russian cannon battleship 3rd rank Ingermanland (64 guns) was launched from the Admiralty shipyard in St. Petersburg. Peter I himself took part in the development of his drawings. The battleship had impressive dimensions for that time: length - 52m; width - 14m; hold depth - 6m. Peter's golden standard flew up from his mast. This ship was long time flagship of the Russian fleet.

Ship ranks in the sailing fleet:

  • The first rank is three-deck or four-deck, the largest sailing ship (from sixty to one hundred and thirty guns).
  • The second rank is three-deck (a ship with three decks) (from forty to ninety-eight guns).
  • The third rank is two-deck (from thirty to eighty-four guns).
  • The fourth rank is two-decker (from twenty to sixty guns).

L "Artemise



L "Artemis was a cannon frigate of the French fleet. The class of the frigate Magicienne, weight 600 tons, 32 guns on board, of which 26 were twelve-pound long guns and 6 were six-pound ones. The frigate was laid down in Toulon in December 1791. It had a length of 44 meters 20 centimeters .

Frigates were called military one-deck or two-deck three-masted ships. They differed from battleships in their smaller size. Their purpose is a cruising service, reconnaissance (long-range), a surprise attack on an object with the aim of further capture or destruction. The largest models were called linear frigates. According to statistics, more frigate models are downloaded for free than battleships.

Some people have a strange, but very remarkable and colorful hobby. It is called assembling ship models from wood. What does it take to make one like this? beautiful thing. It is not so easy to create a model from a tree. From this article you will learn how to create from wood with your own hands. And we will also make a short digression into history.

Francis Drake

Many history buffs know the name "Iron Pirate" England was his homeland. He became the captain of a sailing ship at only the age of 16. At first he was a ship's priest, and then a simple sailor. But his fame really thundered when he became a brave and very formidable pirate. In the 16th century, he made quite a few voyages and took part in a considerable number of battles.

Golden Doe

At the dawn of fate, several sailing ships. His main flagship was the Pelican. This ship was a five-deck three-masted ship. On board there were 20 artillery weapons. All sorts of maritime stories rarely tell us that a ship that already has a name can be renamed, but it was with the "Pelican" that such a story happened by the will of fate. In 1578, Francis Drake changed the name of this ship to "Golden Hind" (in Russian, this name sounds like "Golden Doe"). It was under this second that he was inscribed in sparkling golden letters in world history sailors. Francis Drake performed quite a few dizzying deeds on it, which were later told in history and adventure books.

It is such wonderful ships that make many people assemble ship models from wood with their own hands. Drawings of many such structures can often be found on the Internet. So, inspired ancient history seafaring we will learn from this article information on how to do something similar.

Do-it-yourself wooden ship model: from the beginning to rainbow horizons

In fact, the history of modeling consists of several stages. Moreover, each of these stages is associated with several features. A lover of miniature shipbuilding needs to be able to change available materials. It is also important to expand the choice of modeling objects. After it develops enough, then it can have mass production of models. The next step will be the development of poster exhibition modeling from those sets that he already has. Subsequently, you can develop to the formation of individual segments. It can be anything - from ship models and in the flesh to copies of individual motorcycles, trucks, as well as all sorts of other cars.

Do-it-yourself wooden ship models: drawings, instructions, tools

So, well, let's start creating such a ship. Carving prefabricated ship models from wood is not an easy task. You will need many tools for this. Among them are: a knife, a chisel, a hammer, a bar (and, if necessary, a saw), a thin cloth, superglue, a long wooden spire, a rope, a drill. In addition, you will need two more very important parameters. Firstly, it is time, and secondly, an important quality of those people who are engaged in creating prefabricated models of ships from wood is patience.

carving of a ship from wood

First you have to work with a chisel. You have to file everything and remove the old bolts that have a flat head. It won't take you much time - just two minutes. In these two minutes, the pre-finished block will later become a boat. Now you need to clear the bar. You should carefully scrape off the bark. Hold the bar itself directly towards the instrument. Let's take standard design as an example for our small ship models, which we will build according to the principle below. Take a pencil and sketch a preliminary sketch on the bar. Following this, process the bar sharp knife. The tilt of the blade itself should be at an angle of approximately 10 degrees. When you plan, keep in mind that this is not the most easy job and so be patient. You should not forget that if for any reason you make a mistake, then it will be quite difficult to correct everything. Remove the chips layer by layer, while you should try and process the original bar as smoothly as possible. It is important that the top and bottom should be parallel.

Please note that you do not have to throw out the chips at all. The fact is that, in principle, it can be used as an additional material as a mulch.

Carving of the front and sides of the ship

Well, now we need to draw the front, bottom, as well as the back. We will cut them out in exactly the same way as above. It is necessary to make these parts even. In order for you to get the bow of the ship, you will have to saw off a piece from the front. Following this, you must round the saw cut with a knife. When you make the nose, try to tilt the knife blade itself back. It should be directed towards the stern.

Drilling holes and subsequent installation of equipment

You should have several spiers. Therefore, drill a number of holes, they should be slightly larger than the beams themselves. It is important that there are not too many holes. Otherwise, you may develop a crack. And because of the crack, as you know, a severe disaster can occur - go to the leak. Do not use glue! If you do this, then the next work will pass with much more difficulty.

Setting the sails on the model

Decide, for starters, exactly how many panels you want to get on your final vessel. Let us take as a condition that we will have four panels for the first mast and the second, and three for the last. Following this, take a few wooden spiers and cut them. Cut the fabric into a trapezoid shape. Then start gluing them. Make notches on the branches of the sails, fasten each branch with a corresponding notch. Then glue the middle of the edges to the sails. Repeat the same for all masts. It is best if you build the rear mast first, then the middle one, and then the bow one.

Now let's install the upper flying sail. Cut out the fabric shape kite. Take the thread and attach it to the opposite corner of the cloth. Leave ends on either side for all corners. Glue a small piece of thread exactly on upper part boat. It should be slightly higher than the bow of the boat itself. From the opposite corner, measure up to the middle of the lower branch of the sail on the forward mast. Then cut off the very thread that you measured and glue the tip to the appropriate place.

On each side, you should leave a few threads. Pull them back and glue them straight inside the boat. Then you can cut off the excess rope. Create and attach the back panel in the same way. It must be attached to reverse side rear sail. Measure, cut, and make sure it fits over the two lugs. Then glue them on the corners.

Well, now you have learned how to make the simplest ship models out of wood. And although in this article everything is described only in in general terms, we hope that it will help you in your future career as a "shipbuilder". Unless, of course, you are interested in it. Trust me, it's worth it!