Rules for caring for amaryllis during flowering. All about amaryllis flower: photo and description - beautiful lady from South Africa Indoor plant amaryllis flower care

Amaryllis is beautiful and dangerous flower

Flower growers have always appreciated amaryllis on high legs for its delicate aroma, variety of colors, expressive bell-shaped inflorescences. Looks spectacular in a circle of indoor plants. It is no coincidence that its name is associated with the name of the beautiful shepherdess Amaryllis, the heroine of ancient poems, which means “sparkling” in translation.

Description and features of amaryllis

Brought from South Africa amaryllis belladonna won the hearts of flower growers, but they were originally attributed to a variety of lilies. As a separate species, flowering was first mentioned by Carl Linnaeus in the middle of the 18th century in the description horticultural crops Amsterdam.

The mistake of the Swedish scientist was the combination of two varieties: hippeastrum, amaryllis, — this is reflected in the confusion to date. Flowers are common, except for the African south, in Japan, Australia, even on the island of Jersey.

The bulbous culture is distinguished by a long bare peduncle and narrow straight leaves in two rows up to 55 cm long and 3 cm wide. The diameter of the bulbs is on average 10-12 cm. The inflorescences of 6 petals with pointed tips are funnel-shaped with a diameter of up to 7-8 cm.

amaryllis leaves in the form of a belt smooth, dark green, arranged in two rows. They appear after the release of a pair of peduncles. Umbrella inflorescences consist of 3-10 flowers, which look like a lily and an old gramophone at the same time.

In nature, amaryllis has a snow-white color or a pink-red shade of petals. Breeders have achieved expansion color spectrum: purple, yellow, orange tones, combinations of several colors.

The exquisite beauty of the plant is a terrible force. AT amaryllis bulb there is an alkaloid lycorine, which causes poisoning. It is recommended to plant with gloves, and at the end of the procedure, be sure to wash your hands.

Planting and propagation of amaryllis

With outstretched leaves and a high peduncle, it is very unstable. Therefore, transplantation requires a massive and stable pot, wide in shape at the bottom and tapering at the top.

The bulb should be at a distance of 3-5 cm from the walls. If there are several bulbs, then a distance of 10-12 cm is maintained between them. The pot needs a deep one, since the flower has a developed root system.

Suitable soil can be store-bought or homemade. The recommended composition includes in equal parts:

garden soil;

soddy soil;

river sand.

Humus will be required 2 times less. The mixture is sterilized with boiling water or kept in freezer. Important role plays a drainage that provides aeration to the roots.

Suitable gravel, expanded clay with a layer of 2-3 cm, sprinkled with sand on top. A hole is needed at the bottom of the pot to protect against stagnant water, the cause of rotting of the root system. On the surface of the soil, it is recommended to scatter brick chips or scatter pebbles a little.

healthy bulbs do not have cracks, stains, traces of mold and rot. They need to be freed from dead scales, disinfected before planting by keeping them in a permanganate solution for 20 minutes. A day after drying, it can be planted so that the blunt end is below, and a third of the bulb remains above the surface.

blooming amaryllis needs an abundance of light, moderate watering, temperature in the range of 18-25 ° C. Coolness prolongs flowering.

Cut arrows with flowers in water cost the same amount of time as in pots. Cutting stimulates the bulb to form a new peduncle. If you save all the arrows, then on next year amaryllis may not bloom.

Reproduction of the plant is carried out by the resettlement of children or with the help of seeds. Daughter bulbs are transplanted and constantly watered. An adult bulb is formed for 2 years, on the third - it is ready for flowering.

Ripe seeds from the peduncle box are planted in moist soil and placed in a shaded place for a month. Shoots as they grow are seated in separate pots. Amaryllis will flower from seeds in 5-7 years.

Amaryllis Care

Proper care will allow you to achieve 2-3 flowering per year. Amaryllis needs the following conditions:

scattered light;

moderate moisture;

proper feeding;

good soil drainage;

comfortable temperature.

During growth, watering is started when the boom rises 10 cm in height. does not tolerate stagnant water. It is optimal to water every 3-4 days, without affecting the bulbs. Water should only get into the ground. During the wintering period, a single spraying is allowed for 8-10 days.

Top dressing gaining color homemade amaryllis desirable means, including more phosphorus and potassium, to a lesser extent nitrogen. Suitable for street organic fertilizer in prepared solutions of bird droppings or fresh manure. Withered leaves - a signal of the transition of amaryllis to a dormant state. Feeding is stopped.

Leaf pruning is not recommended. After dropping the arrow, you need to remove the pot in a dark place with a low temperature for 3-4 months to rest and gain strength. Usually it is summer or autumn period, and the distillation time falls on the winter-spring time.

Types and varieties of amaryllis

Finding a real bulb of amaryllis belladonna is a great success for flower growers. The classic variety is always in price. Free buy amaryllis selective origin can be in any flower shop. There is an abundance of multi-color colors and new varieties: double and non-double, narrow-petaled, large-flowered, etc.

There remains the problem of separation and amaryllis, which are part of the same flower family. Even connoisseurs of flowers are sometimes mistaken because of the numerous genus of hippeastrums.

Only natural species number almost a hundred, and those bred selectively - more than one and a half thousand. Magnificent flower forms, aromas, richness of the range of colors make amaryllis an excellent decoration for housing and garden plots.

Before considering all the rules on proper care for amaryllis, it is necessary to determine exactly what kind of plant is located on our windowsill. As a rule, two varieties of this are mixed in the scientific literature. One of which is wearing . There is no cardinal difference in the rules for caring for these species. But it is worth noting that amaryllis will delight with its flowering period from the end of winter days to mid-spring, and hippeastrum - from the end of hot weather. summer days before the autumn days.

You also need to pay special attention to the presence of large flowers of these hybrids. Up to 3 flowers can be on one arrow at the same time. Nowadays, very popular in home cultivation it was these two amaryllis hybrids that became.

But, how to properly care for amaryllis? Do not forget that this houseplant has two periods - rest and rapid flowering. Therefore, care must be carried out directly depending on the period of amaryllis.

Amaryllis home care during flowering and growth

During the flowering period of amaryllis, all the subtleties of the content should be taken into account.

Air humidity

Amaryllis is unpretentious to air humidity. The flowering period can also come without regular spraying. Be sure to wipe the dust from the leaves of the plant, and periodically rinse the flower under a warm shower.

Watering

Be careful with this amaryllis care item. If the plant is waterlogged, then the flowering period may not come, but the leaves will develop well. Watering should begin only with the appearance of the peduncle.

The process should be carried out only with warm water and only when the flower stalks reach 8 centimeters should it be switched to water that has room temperature. It is worth adding that the amaryllis root system also does not like excessive moisture.

Priming

Amaryllis should be planted in a soil mixture, which consists of: humus, sand, soddy soil and peat. Be sure to provide good drainage.

Lighting

Amaryllis loves bright light. In this regard, after the appearance of the first peduncle, the flower pot must be immediately moved to the windowsill. Just don't put the plant too close to the glass.

Temperature regime

To start growing, the plant requires an optimal temperature for its existence and development of 25 - 30 degrees.

Amaryllis* (Amaryllis, Hippeastrum)- one of our favorite houseplants, especially in a rather cold Russian climate, with almost a six-month period of snow and lack of access to such natural gardening and dacha work on your favorite garden plot! Modern cultivars of amaryllis come in a wide range of colors and are usually crowned with large bell-shaped flowers ranging from pure white to deep crimson, purple and even green. There are varieties with double and pronounced striped flowers. homeland of this unusual flower- South America.

(*The commercial name Amaryllis refers to representatives of two species - Amaryllis belladonna and Hippeastrum garden. Here we are talking about hippeastrums, see the description on the page Hippeastrum (Ed.)

Amaryllis is a bulbous plant with linear, fairly long oblong leaves. In culture, hybrid amaryllis and hippeastrums are more common. Amaryllis are among the best forcing plants, as they are easily forced out at room conditions, even by the most unprepared amateurs. As a rule, each bulb produces one or two long flower arrows with 4-6 huge flowers, reaching 20 cm in diameter, and sometimes more. It happens that well-developed bulbs give a third arrow, but I usually remove it at the very early stage of its development, because I think that the third flowering is very much inferior in beauty and abundance of flowering to the previous two and, most importantly, greatly weakens the mother bulb, which is fraught with a lack of flowering next year.

Amaryllis in normal conditions bloom in late winter or in early spring. Some species and varieties may bloom in summer or autumn. With the help of distillation, with some little knowledge and skills, in principle, amaryllis can be made to bloom at any time of the year that is convenient for you. The height of flower stalks averages 0.4-0.7 m and strongly depends on the characteristics of a particular variety. The same applies to the size of each individual flower.

What is the difference between amaryllis and hippeastrum?

In fact, popularly loved flowers are representatives of two different kinds(hippeastrum and amaryllis) or their hybrids. By the nature of flowering, planting and caring for them, these two plants differ little from each other. In the first and simplest approximation, their difference is only in the size of the flower, the height of the peduncles and the size of the bulbs. Most often, in hippeastrums, all this is larger. Other differences for us flower growers are of little significance, therefore, for simplicity, we will use the common name for these plants - amaryllis. By the way, hippeastrum in translation means "big knight's star."

How to plant amaryllis?

Depending on the size of the bulb, amaryllis is planted in an individual (rather heavy) pot 15-20 cm in size or in a small group, at a distance of 10 cm from each other, in a slightly larger container or container. Avoid light pots that can tip over during amaryllis flowering or from minor gusts of wind with a sufficiently large foliage and flower stalks windage. With a blunt end (usually with the remains of roots), the bulbs are buried in well-drained, humus-rich soil. Thoroughly pack the soil mixture around the bulbs so that about half or at least a third of the bulb remains above the soil surface. In the lower part of the earthy coma, almost above the very drainage, you can horizontally put one or one and a half sticks of any complex prolonged-action fertilizer you have tested, after dividing them in half.

After planting or transplanting, a pot of amaryllis is placed on a bright window in a fairly warm place and watered. room temperature. For planting, an earthen mixture is used, consisting of approximately equal parts sod, leaf, humus soil and sand. When transplanting, the roots are shaken off the old earth, and rotten in an old pot or dried out when long-term storage roots are removed.

Before planting, it is highly desirable to first remove all the dried outer scales of the bulbs that are black or dark brown in color for several reasons. Firstly, by peeling the bulb to lively and elastic white or light green tissues and placing your plant in the light, you thereby stimulate the production of chlorophyll in them and, as it were, stimulate or start all the necessary life processes in a plant that is often sleeping or resting, if we are talking about a planned transplant this plant. Secondly, if we are talking about newly acquired specimens, behind the dead covering shells, there can be anything - small hidden foci of rot, and pathogenic spores, and even young children pecked in growth. Therefore, I strongly advise you to first carefully remove all external dark and even light, but already lost their elasticity, outer shells before planting, and separate all sufficiently large and viable children. Further, it will be useful to treat your bulbs almost to the very neck for half an hour with some kind of fungicide or at least a dark solution of potassium permanganate. Then, having dried them well for several hours, or even days, you can start planting the prepared plants. Places that make you suspicious can be pre-treated with Maxim, Fitosporin, or at least ordinary brilliant green. But they also need to be dried well before planting!

Very small, slightly pecked babies are removed or left on the bulb, depending on your further goals and preferences in relation to this variety or specifically in relation to this instance or a particular bulb. They can be left if you need to quickly propagate this variety or removed if abundant and long flowering is more important to you. It must be remembered that the presence of children can lead in some varieties to a delay or even prolonged absence flowering. The intensive education of children is facilitated by a very spacious container in which they grow. The plant, as it were, understands - why strain and try to multiply through flowering and seed setting, if it is possible to multiply its offspring vegetatively more naturally and faster.

Therefore, pots for planting amaryllis are taken mainly of small diameter, the distance between the wall and the bulb, which should be only 1.5-2 cm! Maybe even less! As mentioned above, in a spacious container, the plant forms many children and does not bloom for a long time. At the same time, well-developed amaryllis roots need a lot of space, so the pot should be deep enough and wide at the bottom. Good drainage is also essential, since the bulk of the roots are located in this part of the pot. Expanded clay or fine gravel can be used as drainage. It is desirable to use ceramic pots, without enamel. This contributes to better ventilation and aeration of the root system.

Mature plants are transplanted about every 2 years, younger plants are transplanted as needed and the bulbs grow. The top layer of the earth, if possible, is replaced annually for all plants.

Which window is best to put it on?

Amaryllis are photophilous plants, they feel very good on the southeast and southwest windows. You can also put on the southern windows, but in the daytime it is better to shade the pots from direct sunlight. As the leaves and flower arrow grow, the plant must be periodically rotated slightly so that the stem stretching towards the light returns to a vertical position.

How to water amaryllis?

Water the newly planted plant very sparingly so as not to flood the bulb and roots until the new leaves or flower are starting to grow and are about 5-7 cm tall. Depending on the variety, Amaryllis may be either leaf or flower first - either is normal, but flower stalks are more common. After the leaves or arrow of the flower have begun to grow, you should keep the soil sufficiently moist. But it must be borne in mind that with a strong excess of moisture, thick roots that have not yet taken root and not properly rooted, or even the bulb itself, can rot, especially if before that it had areas affected by decay. In the absence of leaves and cold weather or a window sill, moisture from pots, especially plastic ones, evaporates slowly, which can cause roots and bulbs to rot.

When will my amaryllis bloom?

A powerful, well-developed bulb starts growing or throws out flower stalks almost immediately after planting. And already within seven to eight weeks, depending on the variety and variety of amaryllis, you will receive one or two powerful peduncles, each of which will have three to five, and sometimes six beautiful flowers. To prolong their flowering, keep the pot in a fairly cool place and out of direct sunlight. If a third flower arrow suddenly appears, then it is better to break it off immediately at the base and not allow the bulb to bloom a third time, since three-fold flowering greatly depletes the bulb. The peduncle immediately after the opening of the first flower can be safely cut off and placed in water in a narrow high vase, it is advisable to renew the water every day. The duration of flowering of each peduncle in the cut and on the bulb is almost the same, but at the same time you significantly reduce the exhaustion of the bulbs and often stimulate the appearance of a new peduncle.

In summer, plants are watered abundantly (but not often!) as needed, and fed once every two weeks. AT sunny days only pots shade, you can spray the foliage in the evening or in the morning. In the daytime, it is better not to do this, since water droplets can become microlenses and corny burn the leaves, concentrating the sun's rays on them. Amaryllis can also be taken out into the open air - a balcony, an outdoor window sill, or even planted in a garden, protecting the mouth of the bulb from heavy rainfall and excessive moistening of the earthy coma.

What does amaryllis need for regular flowering?

You can help the amaryllis bloom again next year. All you need is a little extra care for this plant and it will pay you back. After the end of flowering, flower stalks should be removed immediately, cutting them off at a height of approximately 3-4 cm from its base. Continue to water the plant periodically as the top layer of the earthy coma dries. Amaryllis should also be fed regularly, about once every two weeks or ten days, preferably with liquid fertilizers for bulbous plants. Amaryllis respond very well to liquid complex fertilizer "Emerald". The more leaves the amaryllis produces during the spring and summer, the better. They will help the plant stock up on the necessary energy for the next flowering. At the same time, under conditions favorable for the plant, either a flower bud or a baby embryo is laid behind every fourth leaf. And depending on the size of the pot, plant care and some other external conditions, they may well start growing and reward you with either a beautiful flower or a new plant.

When can amaryllis be expelled?

Amaryllis is very much appreciated precisely because the time of their flowering, by correctly adjusting the dormant period, can be timed to almost any desired time. But still it is better to do it from December to April for two reasons. These terms are more natural for this plant. In this case, the bulbs are less depleted and better endure this event, which, in other words, passes for them with the least loss. In this case, your collection will bloom beautifully and almost continuously every year, and the bulbs will normally recover in the spring and summer. In industrial conditions, forcing for cutting is carried out almost all year round.

How to prepare amaryllis for dormancy?

At the end of August - September, stop feeding and begin to reduce the amount of watering until they stop completely at the end of October - November. By this time, the amaryllis will begin to gradually shed its leaves, and the nutrients from them will gradually pass into the bulb. Due to a significant decrease in irrigation and natural light, in October - November, all leaves should naturally die off. It is not necessary to specially cut off the leaves that have not yet withered, since when they die, everything organic matter of them go into the bulb, making the necessary stock nutrients for subsequent abundant flowering. But sometimes there is still one on the bulb - two leaves that have not withered for quite a long time. If they do not interfere with your further storage of the amaryllis pot, you can leave them. Often they are carefully bent or cut at the base of the bulb to save space when stored, for example, on shelving in a cool pantry or a warm enough garage that does not drop below freezing in winter.

How to store amaryllis in the dormant period?

At rest, the bulbs usually retain living roots, at least the skeletal and largest ones, so they need to be watered occasionally (every 15-20 days). Bulbs do not need light during dormancy, so they can be placed in a dark, cool and necessarily dry place. Pots with resting bulbs are kept at a temperature of about + 5- + 12 ° С. Leave the resting bulbs in pots or in bulk in boxes for at least eight to nine weeks. Remember: the bulbs of hippeastrums and amaryllis are not frost-resistant and are very afraid of even a short-term drop in temperature to negative values.

When does amaryllis usually bloom?

At home, the normal flowering period of amaryllis is mid-February - the first half of March. Very often, amaryllis bloom precisely on Valentine's Day or on the holiday of March 8, which long years replaced our Valentine's Day. 7 to 10 weeks before the desired flowering period, place pots with rested bulbs in a warmer and bright room, as described above. The abundance of watering should be adjusted depending on the intensity of foliage growth, the temperature and dryness of the surrounding air, as well as the humidity of the earthen coma. By following these simple guidelines, you will be rewarded regular flowering your amaryllis every year.

How and when should amaryllis be transplanted?

It is desirable to replant and change the soil in pots every 1-2 years. The root system is not cut off during planting and transplanting, but only diseased and dried roots are removed, sprinkling the cuts with crushed charcoal. When transplanting, carefully separate the babies that often appear near the bulbs and, if necessary, plant them in separate pots, designating the variety. Babies usually bloom around the third year after separation and transplantation. When transplanting, the diameter of the dishes is only slightly increased, since in a “cramped” dish, amaryllis bloom more readily and much faster.

It is better to transplant plants in the spring, about 3-5 weeks after flowering. This is due to the fact that faded bulbs are greatly depleted and reduced in diameter, since flowering occurs almost exclusively due to the reserves of the bulb itself. Faded plants are carefully cleaned of withered and dried outer scales and transplanted into smaller pots with a new nutrient substrate. The sizes of pots for amaryllis were discussed above. In summer, they are kept in the same way as young plants, regularly feeding.

As the diameter of the bulb increases, it can be transferred to a slightly larger container. But this must be done very carefully so as not to greatly damage the earthen lump and roots. At this moment, you can insert mineral nutrient sticks (fertilizers) of prolonged action into the lower part of the earthy coma. Do okay developing plant the root system densely and evenly permeates the entire earthen ball and does not allow it to fall apart. If this is not the case, then you need to understand what prevents the plant from developing normally and take all necessary measures to eliminate these adverse factors.

How to propagate amaryllis?

Amaryllis is propagated by seeds and baby bulbs. Seed propagation is practiced only for breeding and hybridization; for amateur floriculture, this propagation method is considered very costly and ineffective. Let me share a little of my sad experience. In my school years, I wanted to understand what would happen when crossing red and white amaryllis. At the same time, I received seeds on both white and red specimens. There were quite a lot of seeds in all seed boxes. Germination was good and almost all planted seeds from both amaryllis sprouted. There were about a hundred seedlings, I simply did not plant more, due to lack of space. Gradually growing up, they began to take up more and more space, and I had to compact them or distribute them to friends. Having reached adulthood, they all bloomed, but I never got any outstanding or at least white-pink colors. Almost all colors were red. After interviewing all the friends with whom I shared the seedlings, I realized that their colors almost completely repeated mine. This whole experiment took me about 5 years. Perhaps I was just unlucky, but that was the end of my desire to become an amaryllis "breeder".

Modern varieties

improvement or search for new varieties with classic large double and non-double flowers. I would like to note such terry varieties as Celica, Double Roma, Double Dragon, Ice Queen, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, Macarena, Promise etc. Among the non-double monochrome forms, for my taste, very interesting varieties Black Pearl, Ampulo, Benfica, Exotica, Faro, Lemon Lime,Moonlight, Matterhorn, Rosalie, White Baby and etc.;

search for fundamentally new two- or multi-color colors, or giving new shades to existing ones. I would note such modern varieties as Charisma, Gervesa, Temptatia, Prelude,misty,clown,neon,Estella, Santa Cruz,papillio,Pizazz and etc.;

the search for new flower forms, for example, the so-called narrow-petal varieties of amaryllis or "spiders", from the English "spider" - a spider. This group includes varieties Spotty, Santana, Grandeur, Night Star, Chico, Lima, Evergreen, La Paz etc. All of them look very nice in group compositions, but single flowers, in my opinion, lose a lot to large-flowered hybrids.

Amaryllis outdoors

AT southern regions RF amaryllis can be grown in the open field, but, be sure to remember that he is afraid negative temperatures. If there is a threat of frost, amaryllis bulbs should be brought into temperature-controlled rooms in advance. Plant bulbs in open ground follows mainly sunny places or partial shade only after the threat of return frost has disappeared.

In most regions of the Russian Federation in winter period amaryllis hibernates only as a houseplant with a pronounced dormant period from about late October to early February.

Amaryllis is unique in its kind, which is rightfully considered one of the most beautiful indoor flowering crops. short period flowering amaryllis more than pays off with the aesthetic pleasure that can be obtained from the mere contemplation of large inflorescences exuding a delicate aroma.

Amaryllis belongs to the family of the same name, which consists of a single species - Amaryllis Belladonna (another option is Amaryllis Beautiful). Initially, this plant grew only in South Africa, and it was brought to Europe at the beginning (according to some sources, in the middle) of the 18th century.

What does amaryllis look like?

Amaryllis is a typical bulbous crop, underground part which is represented by a rounded formation with a narrowing in the upper part, consisting of many thin scales, that is, an ordinary bulb with a diameter of up to 12 cm. The roots of the plant are located on its lower part, and are presented in the form of a fibrous root. Amaryllis leaves are xiphoid or linear in shape with a sharp point at the top.

Peduncle - a long bare stem growing from the center of the bulb, appears shortly before the growth of leaves. It is hairless, smooth, covered with a dense skin and bears 4 to 8 funnel-shaped flowers. Amaryllis flowers in diameter reach 5-8 cm, and have 6 lanceolate petals with a sharpening to the outer edge. In nature, they are white or pink color, and many varieties with yellowish-pink, golden or purple petals have been bred in culture. Red or brick-red amaryllis is a classic of the genre, it was they who first appeared in culture.

Amaryllis: cultivation and care (video)

Photo gallery

Popular varieties

Breeding developments in relation to amaryllis have three goals.

• The first of these is the creation of larger flowers with more petals. The flowering of such varieties is striking in its splendor!
• The second direction of selection is based on creating a flower with unusual petal colors.
• The third goal is to create plants whose flower differs from the parent specimens. unusual shape petals.

The following varieties of amaryllis are recognized as the most popular for growing at home:

Care rules

The capriciousness of amaryllis is inferior to other indoor plants, however, in order for the flowering to be lush and long enough, it is necessary to properly care for the flower throughout the year, even when it is resting. At the same time, lighting, air temperature and humidity should be as close as possible to those typical for the places of its natural growth.

Important! If the care is carried out in compliance with all the requirements of the flower, amaryllis can bloom several times a year.

So, the illumination in the room in which the pot with the plant is located should be bright and necessarily diffused. The ideal place for it is the southeast and southwest windows. You should not leave the flower in one position for too long, especially if it forms a flower arrow. So that the inflorescence does not turn out to be one-sided, it is recommended to rotate it regularly (up to 3 times a week).

Amaryllis is undemanding to air and soil humidity, however, for normal growth he still needs watering up to 2 times a week. It is better to do this through the pan so that water does not get on the bulb and does not provoke its decay. The flower needs spraying only in very dry periods.

Important! Do not moisten the ground part of the plant during the flowering period! The maximum that can be allowed is to wipe leaf blades moistened paper towel.

The need for moisture during the dormant period is completely reduced to zero. After the plant sheds its leaves, water it completely. You can resume soil moisture after the peduncle reaches a length of 10 cm. If you start moistening the soil earlier, the flower will redistribute its forces to forcing leaves to the detriment of flowering.

A favorable temperature for the growth and flowering of amaryllis is considered to be the usual room range - from 18 to 25 degrees. To prolong the flowering period, you can place the pot with the bulb in a cool place with a temperature of up to 20 degrees. In this case, it is necessary to reduce the intensity of illumination.

Important! If you cut the arrow at the moment the first bud opens, the bulb in 80% of cases throws out a new one to replace it. In this way, you can make the plant bloom several times per season. At the same time, the cut bud can be placed in a vase with plain water. The arrow will stand for at least three weeks, delighting with gradually blooming buds.

After the amaryllis blooms and new leaves no longer grow, it is recommended to reduce watering and move the plant pot to a cool place with a temperature of about 10 degrees. The plant should be there for at least 3 months. If this period is not observed, the risk of bulb depletion will increase significantly.

Potential Growing Problems

Indoor amaryllis is a very undemanding plant, which can still sadden its owner with some problems. When solving them, it is necessary to find out the source of the changes that have occurred, and only then proceed to restore the flower.

Important! Sometimes the grower wonders why his flower does not bloom, although the leaves grow normally, and the care is carried out in full accordance with the requirements. Before disturbing the plant with transplants, it is necessary to remember how old the amaryllis bulb is - until the age of three, this culture does not begin to bloom!

Transplant and reproduction

For growing amaryllis, a loose two-part turf substrate is ideal. fertile land, one part of peat and parts of sand and humus of the same volume. You should also carefully consider the choice of dishes in which the bulb will be planted. Flower pot should correspond to the size of the root system and be 4 cm larger than the diameter of the bulb.

Interesting! A tight pot will contribute to more lush flowering and prevent the formation of children. The bulb will get bigger year by year, and will be able to shoot up to three arrows at the same time!

At the bottom of the pot, drainage is arranged with a layer of at least 2 cm, and a layer of soil mixture is poured on top. The bulbs are buried in the ground to two-thirds of its height. If it is necessary to increase soil fertility, simply remove a layer of old soil (3-5 cm) and replace it with fresh soil. You can completely replace the soil and pot in 3-4 years. It is recommended to do this during dormancy, a month after the peduncle dries.

Amaryllis reproduces mainly by children- small offspring bulbs that form at the base of the maternal root system. They are separated from an adult specimen during transplantation and placed in a small pot, the size of which corresponds to the diameter of the bulb (a couple of centimeters wider than it).

An equally popular method of amaryllis propagation, in which the seeds formed on the peduncle are used, is considered more time-consuming, as it requires germination and preparation of planting material. It also has another drawback - plants obtained from seed propagation, bloom 6-7 years after planting.

Diseases and pests

Like any indoor crop, amaryllis can be attacked by pests and diseases. Both the ground parts and the bulb can be damaged. The second option is dangerous because initial stage negative changes, the owner of the flower cannot understand what is happening with the plant, and begins to change the system of caring for it. The result of this may be the death of amaryllis.

Most often, the flower is affected by the following diseases and pests:

Growing ornamental flowering plants in indoor conditions requires a huge amount of knowledge, perseverance and compliance with the rules of agricultural technology for each crop. Amaryllis flowers at home give good result when flowering only if the rules of care are observed. Many novice flower growers are wondering why amaryllis does not bloom, despite the fact that a lot of time and attention is given to it. There is only one answer here - improper planting and care create excellent conditions for growing green mass and do not give any chance for the formation of a flower arrow. As a result, the graceful beauty of bell-shaped buds becomes unattainable, and lush flowers settle on the windowsill. deciduous plant. The amaryllis flower at home can and should bloom; for this, the method of distillation or solid planting is used. How to do it competently and professionally - read this article. In the meantime, we suggest looking at the amaryllis flower in the photo illustrating the richness of the color of the buds:

History, botanical description and photo of amaryllis

Bulb culture is widespread on the African continent. It was brought to Europe almost 3 centuries ago. First botanical description was proposed by Carl Linnaeus in 1753. A botanist was compiling a catalog of identical plants in botanical garden mayor of Amsterdam. It was in his garden that the first collection of exotic bulbous plants was presented. The history of the distribution of Amaryllis belladonna in Europe begins from this moment. Look at the photo of amaryllis - the richness of shades does not at all mean the multiplicity of the amaryllis genus from which it comes:

The homeland is the delta of the Olifants River, which flows through South Africa. The rocky, elevated terrain and hot, dry climate in the area create favorable conditions for the development and flowering of this crop. This should be taken into account when breeding amaryllis at home. In the Old World, other names of this indoor plant are also known: March lily, belladonna lily, amarillo and many others.

It is worth starting a description of the culture with the fact that the plant has beautiful belt-like long leaves, reaching a length of up to 1 meter, their width is from 3 to 7 cm. Amaryllis leaves are dense and fleshy, rich green in color with longitudinal veins. The amaryllis flower is formed on a long bare stem. It can be quite developed, up to 1 cm in diameter and up to 60 cm in height. On each peduncle is located from 3 to 5 buds. The flowers are funnel-shaped, similar to lilies. Their color is varied, from snow-white to rich burgundy. Look at the photo of a typical amaryllis plant in room conditions:

For successful development and flowering, the plant needs a dormant period. Optimal time for forcing the peduncle and flowering - from February to May. At the beginning of summer, the leaves begin to droop and dry out, the number of waterings is reduced, and until the end of August the plant enters the dormant stage. Then the repeated process of gaining deciduous mass begins. In this case, the amount of watering should be very moderate.

The buds are arranged in a dense group, giving the impression of a bouquet composition. After flowering, large seeds are formed, suitable for subsequent propagation of the culture.

Varieties of culture and their features (with photo)

Currently, only one botanical species of amaryllis is actively bred indoors - beautiful or belladonna. Varieties of culture are subdivided solely on the color of the petals. There are no cardinal differences. Terry varieties of amaryllis are more in demand - their features are more decorative buds. Among the terry varieties, DoubleDragon and DoubleRoma can be distinguished, they are distinguished by large buds and more long period flowering. Among the simple non-terry varieties, the most common are Exotica, WhiteBaby, Moonlight, Ampul. Multi-colored varieties are in high demand, in which several shades are combined in buds. This is especially beautiful amaryllis, but it is quite difficult to buy them due to the lack of sale. Such a plant can be grown independently from seeds. Multicolor types are Charisma, Prelude, Gervesa, Neon and Temptatia. Look at the photo of some varieties of amaryllis - the brightest specimens are presented:

Experiments of breeders are also carried out in the field of obtaining petals various shapes. So, recently the so-called "spiders" with narrow petals of the original elongated shape have become fashionable. These are the varieties Spotty, La Paz, Evergreen, etc.

The so-called natural flower type Amaryllis sarniensis is widespread. It is not whimsical in care and pleases the eye with a long period of flowering. Its buds have a beautiful crimson color.

We grow indoor amaryllis at home (planting and care)

In order to get active flowering, it is important to carry out everything correctly. agrotechnical measures. Many flower growers use the distillation technique in heated greenhouses. In this case, you can get completely undeveloped leaves and huge flower buds. We grow indoor amaryllis as a permanent crop at home, while transplanting is required only 1 time in 3 years. The period of rest and gaining strength takes place in normal room conditions without digging and stratifying the bulb. Correct fit and timely care guarantee excellent results. But let's deal with all the subtleties in order, but for now look at the indoor amaryllis in the photo:

First of all, for a flower you should choose appropriate place. It can be an east or southeast window. Need scattered sunlight in sufficient quantity. It grows poorly on northern windows. On the southern windows, flowers are obtained with a pale color of the buds. The first flowering after planting may occur after 2-3 years. All this time, the bulb is gaining weight. It should occupy at least 2/3 of the diameter of the pot. This circumstance should be taken into account when choosing suitable capacity. The larger the pot, the longer you have to wait for the flower arrow to appear. Optimally, when the diameter of the pot is only 4 cm wider than the diameter of the amaryllis bulb.

Planting amaryllis is carried out in several stages. First, the soil is prepared. This is a mixture of sod land, peat and drainage. The bulb is cleaned of damaged scales and soaked for 3 hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then it can be soaked for a day in a growth stimulator solution (for example, Kornivin). Drainage is laid at the bottom of the pot with a layer of up to 3 cm. Then nutrient soil mixed with mineral fertilizers is poured. The bulb is buried 2/3, the rest remains above the surface. After landing, the abundant watering. After 2 weeks, a set of deciduous mass begins. Watering after planting should not be carried out until the deciduous mass grows up to 5 cm in length. After that, watering is carried out no more than 1 time per week. After the appearance of the flower arrow, watering and care should be daily with the addition of mineral and nutrient complexes.

After the end of flowering, the soil is loosened and the overgrown children are removed. Otherwise, they will slow down the flowering of the plant next year. Bulbs can be transplanted into larger pots. Top dressing is carried out with complex organic and mineral fertilizers. After this, a dormant period begins, with minimal watering. At this time, it is useful to spray the foliage mass from the spray gun once a week.

Reproduction is carried out in two ways: by separating the children from the central bulb during transplantation and by seeds. Amaryllis seeds are quite large, easily germinate in well-structured soil. However, when growing amaryllis from seeds at home, you will have to wait a very long time for flowering. After all, it is necessary to grow a full-fledged bulb, stratify it and carry out the forcing of the flower arrow. seed method particularly valuable varieties are propagated, purchase bulbous planting material which are not so easy.

When propagating amaryllis with bulbs, it is enough to take a separate pot and plant all separated bulb babies in it at a distance of 5 cm from each other. A year later, you will have ready-made planting material. When growing children, regular watering is required, at least 2 times a week and the application of mineral fertilizers in liquid form 1 time in 2 weeks.

How to make amaryllis bloom at home?

Quite often, beginner flower growers ask why amaryllis does not bloom, despite all the rules for caring for it. More often than not, abundant watering and violation of planting rules are to blame. How to make amaryllis bloom at home with simple secrets? Well, it's not all that simple. A complete plant transplant will be required. A container is selected that is 4 cm wider than the bulb. Nutrient soil is poured into it, the deciduous mass is completely removed from the bulb. After planting, watering is required only in the first 2 weeks. After the growth of foliage begins, watering stops completely.
All children are removed during transplantation, since they take away the maximum of nutrients, not allowing the peduncle to form.

Another way to make amaryllis bloom is regular watering with succinic acid diluted in water. Requires 3 tablets per 200 ml of water. Once dissolved, water instead of regular watering.