Chernozem, chernozem, fertility ... And it dries into stone. One year after mulching with hay was a very loose spring, but with mulch - tight.

What can loosen? Some advise adding sand and peat. I don’t know how sand is, but peat ... The soil is already acidic, why voluntarily acidify it additionally?

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High soil density can be caused by high sodium content. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to exclude liquid humate fertilizers, which contain sodium. The addition of compost or manure, limestone flour or peat will help increase the looseness of the soil.

To make the soil loose, I would bring in a sunflower husk machine, and if you want to have depleted and acidic soil, then bring in sand and peat.

- "In the autumn you sow rye, in the spring you dig as late as possible and that's it." Well, I'm wary of rye, but in general green manure should help. Although - a great discussion of green manure and whether they benefit

Not bad helps (if if such a possibility) the importation of a couple of machines of humus, adding buckwheat husk adding sawdust and sand to the ground. One of my friends does this - after weeding weeds, she digs them along the paths, and on next year makes beds on them.

Use peat, compost or rotted manure, it's good to add ash or lime. All this is laid out on the future bed and carefully dug up with a shovel, and then shake everything again with a pitchfork. And that's it. In the fall, after harvesting a super-harvest, you can add more peat and ash to the garden bed and again gently shake the soil with a pitchfork, picking out any debris. In the spring, all that remains is to loosen with a pitchfork and you can plant again.

Humus, mulch, green manure, rast. residue through a grinder. The earth became like fluff.

He brought everything to the beds: sand. manure, peat, ash, compost, foliage, pine needles, mowed grass. Watered with the biological product "Renaissance". As a result of many years of effort, soil appeared on the beds instead of clay. AT last years I use another method: I simply take out lumps of clay from the garden and dump them outside the site into a dump.

Local hotheads brought sawdust to the potato ridges on a dump truck. The ridge was dug up with sawdust. After that, there was no potato harvest for 3 years at all.

I decided to use sawdust last spring. Did as the experts recommend: sawdust introduced mineral fertilizers: a lot of nitrogen and little phosphorus and potash. The decrease in the potato yield on these 2 experimental beds was very noticeable: about 2 times. This season, the recovery of the yield of these 2 beds began.

[I soaked the sawdust in a solution of urea and laid it on the paths. In autumn, everything loosened up, the beds were planned in a new way]

To increase fertility [on clay], I would do this (preparing the beds): I removed the top layer of fertile soil to clay, poured clay with infusion of compost, manure, and added baker's yeast at the rate of 20g per bucket of water. + a third of a glass of jam. It turned out "lake", then I take a crowbar and make indentations in the clay at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. And we get - the yeast, getting into the clay, begins to loosen the clay, releasing carbon dioxide, and the formed cavities are filled with a nutrient medium of diluted organic matter. And so we get a more structured soil

With my soil [granite and granite screenings + 8 KAMAZ chernozem] (on sandy soil the same technology) I make similar "lakes" only instead of yeast I add klester (I cook from flour)

And about the potato harvest - he loves warmth, long daylight hours, loose soil rich in potassium. (in potato tops 30-40% potassium)

If you invite earthworms as rippers, they will work almost for free. Well, only food waste, grass and a little manure. They worked for me.

The book "Ploughman's Madness" about the cultivation of such a site

All gardeners have long known that manure is an excellent organic fertilizer. It is rightfully recognized in many countries of the world and is actively used by agronomists in land affairs.

But manure is not for everyone. For example, if the site is tiny, then you can’t place a dunghill on it with all your desire.

Therefore, you have to look for alternatives.

And there is an alternative, and a very worthy one.

siderates

Siderates are plants that are plowed into the ground to improve its structure and enrich it with microelements.

They can be planted both before and after harvest. When it is better to do it - choose for yourself.

Spring

If you plant green manure in the spring, they will grow "by leaps and bounds" and drive all weeds out of your area.

The most popular spring green manures are sweet clover, oats, mustard, alfalfa, and peas.

Summer

It will not be too late to do this in the summer or in early September. To prepare the soil for the next season, sow it with mustard, rapeseed, buckwheat, legumes.

Late fall

Here, gardeners are already preparing for the winter with might and main, sowing the plot with clover, lupine, radish, rapeseed, mustard and radish. These crops will protect the soil from freezing, and in the spring there will be no trace of them - the frost will do everything for you. They simply overwinter under a snow cap, and rot in the spring, leaving all their nutritional properties in the ground. Very convenient and fast way.

After harvesting, simply loosen the soil and plant it with winter green manure. Water well so that the grains swell quickly and sprout faster. You can, of course, rely on the rain, but he is an unreliable comrade.

The benefits of green manure

When the plants grow up, they will cover your site with a “green blanket”. And the overwintered land will still be loose and well-fed.

It is not for nothing that people use the sprouts of these crops, their flowers and stems in alternative medicine. After all, they are very useful, and, as it turned out, not only for humans, but also for the earth.

Among other things, they will rid your site of weeds. Because all these plants have a very powerful root structure and there is no way for weeds to break through it.

The soil will thank you for such care.

You can plant green manure not only in open ground but also in the greenhouse. Just don't forget to water.

Take note of this method, but rather use it!

Gray soil without humus

First letter "p"

Second letter "o"

Third letter "d"

The last beech is the letter "l"

Answer for the clue "Grey soil without humus", 6 letters:
podzol

Alternative questions in crossword puzzles for the word podzol

The soil coniferous forests

A mixture of ash and lime

grayish white soil

Infertile grayish-white soil without humus

Soil in spruce forests, pine forests and cedar forests

Infertile greyish-white soil

Infertile greyish white soil

Word definitions for podzol in dictionaries

Dictionary Russian language. D.N. Ushakov The meaning of the word in the dictionary Explanatory dictionary of the Russian language. D.N. Ushakov
podzol, m. Grayish-white soil containing a small amount of salts and completely infertile (agricultural). Podzol is common in wooded areas. A mixture of ash and lime, used. for etching wool from skins (special region).

Explanatory dictionary of the Russian language. S.I. Ozhegov, N.Yu. Shvedova. The meaning of the word in the dictionary Explanatory dictionary of the Russian language. S.I. Ozhegov, N.Yu. Shvedova.
-a, m. Infertile grayish-white soil. adj. podzol, th, th.

Examples of the use of the word podzol in the literature.

They led the German Leucine, with her - Basin, And, preferring the runic podzol, From the bowels of organics, bashfully red, I moved to the Basin region.

how podzol it tears apart the plow with a furrow, rightness divides more mercilessly than sin.

Withered last year's needles crunch pleasantly underfoot, and to the left and right, in front and behind, almost to the blue sky, like bronze columns, giant pine trees rise, glaring firmly into the loose podzol powerful knotted roots-tentacles.

And, in turn, an unbearable carpet with an intricate pattern and with its podzol from microphones, mixed with colorless dust, giving strong shoots of mad thoughts.

In front of the embankment of an old narrow gauge railway, on gray podzol, overgrown with wheatgrass, the trail broke off.

Every gardener and gardener dreams of fertile soil, on which you can set up a garden, and beds, and a flower bed. But over time, the fertile soil layer becomes thinner, it is inhabited by diseases and pests. How to fix the situation, read our material.

The soil shows its fatigue in different ways. It can turn to dust, become covered with moss, or even rust. But every problem has its own solutions. The main thing is not to wait until your yields become equal to the planting material spent.

Problem 1. The thickness of the fertile layer has decreased

If you long time grown in the same place plants with a superficial root system and saved on top dressing, then there is nothing surprising in the thinning of the fertile layer. After all, your green pets probably used everything useful material on growth and development, and you did not apply enough fertilizers that would normalize the situation.

What to do?

Try to add compost to the soil (3 buckets per 1 sq.m.) for digging. This organic fertilizer can significantly improve the quality of "tired" land, providing the plants with the necessary trace elements.

Another great way is green fertilizers (green manure). They can be sown between the main crops or on vacant plots after the crop has already been harvested. It is best to select green manure according to the needs of the plants that you plan to plant in this area. For example, lupine will be a good predecessor for tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, eggplant or zucchini. Mustard will help fight the nematode and prepare the soil for planting potatoes or winter crops. It is good to sow rapeseed before carrots or beets, as it will serve additional protection from viral and bacterial rot.

And the most suitable green manure to improve the "tired" soil are, perhaps, legumes (peas, beans, alfalfa). Nodule bacteria on their roots enrich the soil with nitrogen. And perennial legumes with a powerful root system also extract useful substances from the deep layers of the soil to the surface.

If you do not plan to harvest legumes, but decide to use them as green manure, do not mow the plants before flowering, since the nodules on their roots form during this period.

And don't forget crop rotation. After all, as you know, different plants receive nutrients from different layers soil. Therefore, if the top layer has become thin and has lost fertility, plant plants with a powerful root system.

Problem 2. The soil crumbles like dust

Let's say you are a conservative to the marrow and prefer to plant traditional vegetables (like cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage or zucchini) in the beds, which require a lot of nutrients. At the same time, you avoid fertilizers, believing that the crop should be environmentally friendly, forget about mulching, because your grandparents did not do that. But do not mind how to dig up the soil and pump up muscles at the same time. And therefore it is not surprising that the once fertile land in your garden in a few years begins to absorb moisture poorly and scatters under the gusts of wind.

What to do?

You can, of course, replace the top layer of soil, but this is quite an expensive pleasure.

Try starting with fertilizer. Add 2-3 buckets of compost per 1 sq.m, planting it to a depth of 10 cm. This will make the soil heavier and at the same time make it more nutritious.

Pay attention to the type of soil in your area. After all, some types of soil, for example, sandy, dry out quickly, almost without retaining moisture, and therefore require special care. It is not recommended to dig them more than once a year.

So that the soil does not dust, mulch it with improvised materials, for example, young grass, straw, compost, sawdust, bark, freshly cut weeds. Mulch will not only protect the soil from further erosion. Decaying, it will work as an organic fertilizer, gradually giving useful substances to the crop.

Be careful when mulching the soil with fresh organic matter. In large quantities, it can kill your green pets.

Problem 3. The soil has become too dense

Hard, wet ground that is not easy to stick a shovel into may be a consequence improper care. For example, if deep digging of clay soils, in which heavy loam is on the surface, occurs in rainy weather, then a water- and moisture-proof crust may form on top of the ground.

What to do?

Sometimes similar is treated with similar, therefore, before the onset of cold weather, the soil can be slightly dug to a depth of 10 cm. Experienced gardeners believe that if you just dig, but do not break or turn over clods of earth, then during the winter they will freeze properly and become loose.

If there is clay on the surface of the soil, you can add sand for digging (1 bucket per 1 sq.m).

It is also worth attracting earthworms to the site. You can, of course, dig them up from a neighbor. But if the earthworms are uncomfortable, they are unlikely to linger in your beds.

These invertebrates love decaying organic matter. Therefore, it would be useful to mulch the soil around the plants, for example, with rotted compost.

You can feed green pets with dandelion infusion, which will also attract earthworms. To do this, 1 kg of shoots and roots of dandelions must be poured with 10 liters of water, and after two weeks, strain and dilute with water 1:10.

Problem 4. The soil is acidic

Often the acidity of the soil changes simply as a result of watering. If the water is soft, the acidity of the soil, as a rule, increases, and if it is hard, it decreases. Also, the level of acidity is affected by the plants grown and the fertilizers applied.

What to do?

In this case, liming the soil helps.

There are a number of plants that do not develop very well on freshly limed soil, so it is advisable to normalize the acidity at least a year before planting them. These capricious crops include:

• beans,
• peas,
• carrot,
• tomatoes,
• cucumbers,
• pumpkin,
• swede,
• parsley,
• celery.

Problem 5. There is a lot of alkali in the soil

Alkaline soils are not very common. Sometimes an increased alkali content is a consequence of improper agricultural practices. This happens, for example, if you are too carried away, deoxidizing the soil.

Soils with a pH above 7.5 prevent iron uptake by plants. As a result, your green pets develop worse, which is usually easy to see by yellowing leaves.

What to do?

You can acidify the soil by mulching with high-moor peat, needles or bark of coniferous trees.

Mulching also prevents moisture evaporation, weed germination and wind erosion of the soil. This is best done in the spring or fall after weed removal, fertilization and surface loosening.

It is impossible to mulch the soil before the plants sown in open ground sprout.

Problem 6. The soil is saline

As the saying goes folk wisdom, "better undersalted than oversalted". If whitish salt marks appeared on the soil, most often this indicates wrong top dressing plants mineral fertilizers.

What to do?

Salt is known to dissolve in water. After harvesting, try watering the soil generously several times. There should be plenty of water - up to 15 liters per 1 sq.m, but it is important not to overdo it so that your site does not turn into a dirty puddle.

As soon as the salt goes into the lower layers, mulch the soil with peat.

Problem 7. The soil is infected with harmful insects and diseases

Insects, bacteria and harmful fungi do not sleep in the summer, populating the site at an accelerated pace. And they doze in winter - including in the soil, so that next season they will again start the battle for the harvest with you.

What to do?

The easiest way to deal with insects wintering on the site is to treat the soil with insecticides. Since most of the potential threats in the ground are in the form of eggs and larvae of pests, the store should pay special attention to larvicides that destroy larvae and caterpillars, as well as ovicides that affect eggs of insects and mites.

Mechanical methods of struggle will not be superfluous either. For example, if late autumn dig the soil in the beds (without breaking lumps), pest larvae will become prey for birds. And some insects simply will not be able to burrow into the ground again and overwinter.

Experienced gardeners believe that if you spill the soil with a solution of an EM preparation when loosening, this will help weaken harmful bacteria.

It is also important to remove fallen leaves, as pest larvae often hibernate under it.

In order to cope with diseases, there are also a number of drugs. For example, Alirin B is a useful soil microflora designed to suppress fungal diseases. The drug is compatible with many insecticides, biologics, plant growth regulators and fungicides.

Problem 8. The soil is covered with red bloom

"Rust" can not only metals, but also the soil, and even plants.

If you are using hard water for irrigation large quantity iron, then sometimes it appears on the surface of the soil and between the veins of plants. However, a fungus can also be the cause of the appearance of a red plaque on your beds.

What to do?

Usually in such cases, soil free from plants is spilled with boiling water. If this does not help, in the fall you can also use Fitosporin-M (according to the instructions) or its analogue, which also inhibits the action of pathogenic fungi.

Do not dissolve biopreparations in tap water, as the chlorine contained in it will kill beneficial bacteria. It is best to use melted or rain water.

In the future, it is important to water your green pets only with settled or soft rainwater.

Problem 9. The soil is covered with moss

Moss can appear in the garden, flowerbed and even on the lawn. The most common reason for this is high humidity, excessive shading, and dense or acidic soil.

What to do?

How to deal with the last two problems, we told a little higher. And in order to normalize soil moisture, you can dig shallow drainage channels around the perimeter of the site, into which excess water will drain.

It is also important to consider that moss, like any weed, first of all captures free areas. So if vegetables do not want to grow under the shade of a branched tree, plant plants there that tolerate shade well, for example, forget-me-not, fern or hydrangea.

Usually moss is removed from the beds mechanically. And if he tries to take over your lawn, slowly but surely displacing the grass, you can use ferrous sulfate (90 ml per 20 liters of water). With this amount of solution, 300 square meters of area can be treated.

If your dacha is a place to relax, and not for hard work in the beds, try moving moss from the category of enemies to allies. Moss gardens are extremely popular today in landscape design. So if you are not ready to say goodbye to an old tree that is shading a large area, and do not want to dig up the soil while contaminating it with herbicides, just show a little imagination. And moss will certainly give your garden paths, as well as rockeries with a unique flavor of antiquity and tranquility.

The earth is not at all a dead substance that exists on its own. Each handful of it is filled with many living organisms that directly affect the harvest. If you properly care for the soil from the very beginning, make the necessary fertilizing, observe crop rotation, then you will not need our advice on how to restore soil fertility.

In any store like "Products for home and garden" you can easily purchase necessary set mineral fertilizers. But first you need to make a choice. In autumn, only those types that are sparingly soluble and have a long-term effect are applied. Otherwise, the granules will simply be washed away by rains, and until spring in top layer there will be no nutrients left.

In October, it is good to apply granular fertilizers containing potassium chloride and superphosphate with the addition of lime - fluff. Lime is needed to deoxidize the soil. It has an equal effect dolomite flour or chalk. To fertilize trees and shrubs, it is useful to scatter complex mineral fertilizers around them, after loosening the ground for better absorption of minerals.

Even beginners will be able to use mineral fertilizers, since the packages always say under which crop, how and how much granules should be applied. In vain someone thinks that "you can't spoil porridge with butter." This saying does not apply to fertilizers. If you overdo it, you can damage the soil, and excess nitrate and nitrite content will accumulate in vegetables.

Secrets of using mineral fertilizers

There are many subtleties regarding which plant likes which type of mineral fertilizers. For example, potatoes do not respond well to potassium chloride, but sulfate is more suitable for him. Nitroammophoska will also benefit the garden. It is important to remember that mineral fertilizers must be used carefully. To achieve maximum effect, you need to at least roughly know what kind of elements the soil in your area needs.

It is better to conduct a laboratory chemical analysis of the soil. However, this is far from the most affordable service. It is much easier to detect a deficiency of substances traditional ways. To determine the acidity of the soil, you will need litmus paper, vinegar, or a special pH probe that is commercially available. This device is the most convenient. You can find out if the soil is acidic, visual inspection. The whitish layers are just talking about it. Get good result possible only with neutral soil acidity.

To receive high yield should be given to plants full complex trace elements. At the same time, bearing in mind that nitrogen activates the growth of foliage and shoots, phosphorus contributes to the formation of ovaries and flowers, potassium increases resistance. horticultural crops diseases, calcium regulates acidity. These are the main elements, but there are a number of others that plants also need. These are copper, iron, zinc, manganese and others.

organic fertilizers

Organics have a clear priority over chemicals. Vegetables and fruits grown on natural soil are in increasing demand, despite their high price On the market. Speaking of organic fertilizers, it is not at all necessary to mean manure. Exist a large number of ways to fertilize the land using improvised materials that are available to every gardener and gardener.

The main role here is played by organic compost. The term "organic" means not only cut grass, straw, fallen leaves, tops vegetable crops, although they are very suitable for this. Idle summer residents who are unable to bring manure prepare humus from numerous food waste. These are peelings of potatoes, onions, bananas, apples, peels of watermelons and melons, egg shells and much more that remains with the hostess in the process of cooking.

All this mass must be laid in a hole specially dug for this purpose or directly on the ground, preferably in a shaded corner. land plot. In this case, the contents should be enclosed with sheets of slate, iron or boards to provide the necessary sealing. Organics must be constantly wet, for which it is good to water the pile during the dry period, and then cover it from above plastic wrap. As you add mass, it must be crushed with your feet.

Such a compost heap is a real storehouse of high-quality fertilizer. Due to it, you can increase the humus layer of the earth. To check how the processing of raw materials is going, it is necessary from time to time to lift the mass and inspect the lower part. At favorable conditions there must be a lot of red (dung) worms. They are the main producers of humus. At the same time, there is another benefit: you don’t have to dig worms for fishing somewhere, there are always plenty of them in a pile.

In autumn, after harvesting, tops and foliage are burned in many areas. This is not recommended. Much more benefit can be obtained by placing crop residues in a compost heap. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site allows, you can even build two. While the mass decomposes in one, the second goes for digging, and so subsequently the process alternates. Some do without compost heaps, simply burying grass and tops in holes and trenches. However, as practice shows, this method gives less benefit.

To properly fertilize the land, a large amount of humus is required. However, the amount of source material is still limited. It can be significantly increased by processing the branches of trees and shrubs, which are often simply thrown away or burned. In developed countries, wood shredding machines have long been used, and small chips are then used to make compost. In recent years, such units have appeared in our country. Therefore, it is worth considering purchasing it.

Alternative land improvement methods

The question of how to fertilize the soil without manure worries the owners land plots. Let's talk about other ways to increase soil fertility. For example, good effect gives tincture of nettle or, at worst, any other weed. For several days it is placed in a barrel of water - and the nutrient solution is ready. It will even emit a characteristic "dung" smell. Do not throw away the used grass, but place it in the compost heap. A good owner should have waste-free production.

most valuable natural fertilizer is ash. Ash from incineration hard coal helps the soil, but woody is still much better. It contains the whole set of trace elements, needed by plants, and in an easily digestible form and in the complete absence of chlorine. The best thing is to add ashes before digging the earth. Then it will be distributed evenly in the soil and restore fertility over the winter. It is enough to make ash every 3 years. Potatoes, cabbage, strawberries and raspberries are responsive to this fertilizer. Ash, among other things, drives away harmful insects.

If there is a lot of ash, for example, when burning logs or thick tree trunks, then it can be stored for future use. For this you need to use plastic bags or glass jars to keep the contents from getting wet. At the same time, provide air access to the ashes. It is necessary to introduce ash into the soil in a highly crushed form for better absorption.

In the vacated area after harvest experienced gardeners siderates are sown. This is another effective and cheap way enrich the earth valuable trace elements. best crops mustard, peas, rye, rapeseed are considered for this. After the plants grow 10 centimeters, they are buried in the ground. In the process of decomposition, the necessary substances are formed. In addition, green manure loosens the earth with roots, improves water permeability and aeration of the surface layer.

The most affordable fertilizers

In some regions, it is practiced to bring peat to the site due to its availability. However, it should not be used in its pure form. It is better to add peat to the compost heap. It is not advised to abuse peat, since, despite the abundance of useful organic matter and the ability to retain moisture, has a decent acidity. True, in the lower layers, the reaction of peat becomes slightly acidic.

heavy clay soil must be "diluted" with a loose mass. Sand is suitable for this, it is better if it is river, without clay impurities. Practically in every district center there are sawmills or sawmills that produce a lot of sawdust. They can also be added to the ground for autumn digging, but not fresh, but in a half-ripe form. Sawdust can be a good component for making compost humus.

In rural areas, many keep poultry. chicken manure It is also an excellent fertilizer, cultures easily absorb it. You just need to use it correctly. Under no circumstances should you contribute to fresh as top dressing for trees or shrubs, as litter can "burn" the roots. But under a continuous autumn digging, you can make it, but not every year. The fact is that nutrients are stored in the earth for a long time in the right concentration.

Owners personal plots it’s a good idea to look at elevators, flour mills, grain mills, if there are any in your area. These enterprises, in addition to their main products, produce a lot of valuable waste. This is the husk of buckwheat and millet, the crushed mass left after threshing and cleaning seeds of cereals, rapeseed and sunflower. This raw material, which can practically be taken for free, can be either directly applied to the ground, scattering in an even layer, or laid on compost.