How to divide an old peony bush. How to propagate peonies in spring. Reproduction of peonies by stem cuttings

Autumn, or rather, the time from mid-August to mid-October - best time for dividing large peony bushes, as well as acquiring and planting divisions of new varieties.

Dividing peony roots in autumn

How peonies are divided:

  1. In a plant intended for division, the stems are cut off, the cut is made almost at the level of the soil.
  2. Gently dig a peony in a circle at a distance of 20 cm from the bush.
  3. The bush is loosened using a pitchfork and a crowbar if the plant is large.
  4. Carefully remove the peony from the ground, set it on a platform where it will be convenient to work with it.
  5. From the extracted roots, the earth is washed off with a gentle stream from a hose.
  6. The bush is left outside in the shade so that the roots wilt a little, so the rhizomes and eyes will be less fragile and will not break when divided.
  7. The roots are examined, the places of their connection with the root collar and the location of the eyes are determined - it would be better to make cuts here.

    8. With the help of a sharp knife, division is made so that each division has from 2 to 5 well-developed buds with large and small roots. Larger pieces of rhizome do not take root well, and smaller pieces do not bloom for a long time.

    There should be no broken and rotten sections on the divisions.

  8. Sections are treated with a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkled with charcoal powder.
  9. The parts of the rhizome are planted after a few days, it is necessary that the sections dry out, this protects the divisions from decay.

Things to consider when boarding:

Landing of divisions cannot be made in the same place. Also, new plants should not be planted in place of diseased or dead peonies. We need to find a new place for them on the site.

Peonies do not like frequent transplants from place to place, over the next three years they take root and do not give full flowering. Therefore, delenki are planted immediately in a permanent place.

If, during the division of the bush, pieces with one kidney broke off, planting material can be obtained from them for future years. To do this, they are planted in a greenhouse or on beds, deepened by 10-15 cm, moisten the soil and mulch. After 1-2 years, they can be planted in a permanent place.

Which place to plant a peony to choose

For a peony in the garden, you need to choose a sunny, warm and draft-free corner. AT southern regions It will not be superfluous that at midday the peonies are in light partial shade.

Peonies are not planted in close proximity to trees, their root systems will interfere with each other. It is also not very good to plant peonies next to the walls of buildings. Plants will be hidden from view for most of the day. sun rays, may suffer from excessive moisture flowing from the roofs in the rain, and when landing with south side the walls of the houses heat up, the soil dries out more and the peonies, on the contrary, will be too hot and dry.

soil for peonies

Peonies need loamy, fertile, light, loose soil with a slightly acidic reaction. The most important condition for successful development and growth is a low level of ground water. In wet areas for peonies, mounds should be built with a drainage layer of crushed stone or broken brick.

Pit preparation

The place for planting peonies is carefully prepared, because peonies will grow in one place for quite a long time.

The size of the pits is 50-70 cm in diameter, 50 cm deep. Distance between plants group landing 90 - 120 cm.

An earthen mixture of soddy soil, peat and humus is poured into the pits in equal proportions. Bone meal (200-300 g) or superphosphate (2 tablespoons) is added to each pit as a fertilizer. On the clay soils ah, a layer of drainage from small pebbles is placed at the bottom.

Peony planting technology

  1. Water is poured into the pits so that the soil covered in them settles.
  2. Produce planting delenok. They are placed in such a way that the kidneys are deepened by 3-5 cm relative to the soil level. If you plant plants deeper, they will not bloom, with a shallower planting, the buds may freeze.
  3. The delenki are covered with soil, without the addition of fertilizers.
  4. Abundantly watered.
  5. The soil is carefully compacted.
  6. From above, planting is mulched with peat, leaf humus, or sawdust
  7. If you are planting several varieties of peonies, it is helpful to set up pegs with signs indicating the variety.

After planting until mid-October, you need to make sure that the peonies do not dry out, if there is no rain, water them in a timely manner.

Pruning and sheltering in autumn

In autumn, stems and leaves are cut from peonies. If they do not show signs of any disease, you can use cut shoots as a covering material. Otherwise, they are burned, and a layer of peat, leaf humus or spruce branches is used for shelter.

Shelter is removed from peonies in the spring after the snow melts. On the onset return frosts if at this moment buds form on the plants, the bushes protect from the cold at night with lutrasil.

Storing spring planting material

If you plan to purchase new varieties of peonies next season, then you need to consider the following. Planting material begins to go on sale in the spring, in March - April, and, perhaps, the variety you need will have to be bought at this time. It is too early to plant a peony in the garden and you need to somehow save it until the season.

  • Rhizomes, on which the eyes have not yet begun to grow, are sent for storage in a refrigerator, loggia or basement.
  • The delenki, on which the kidneys woke up, are planted in containers, which are placed in a bright place for growing. These plants are planted in the garden in May - June, when the danger of frost passes. The first planting time must be protected from the bright sun.

Young peonies, under the age of 3 years, for their better formation and development, are not recommended to be allowed to bloom and the resulting buds are removed. Subsequently at flowering plants wilted flowers are cut off so that they do not expend energy on the formation of seeds.

Peonies are generally drought-resistant plants, waterlogging is harmful to them. But during the budding period, after flowering and in the fall, during the preparation for wintering, they need a lot of water. They need to be watered abundantly, but rarely, so that the soil has time to dry out from watering to watering.

At least twice per season: in the spring after the snow has melted and at the end of flowering peonies for good growth feed mineral fertilizers. In early spring and autumn before winter, it is useful to add compost to the soil under the bushes.

What Peonies Don't Like

  1. Early division of the bush. You should not divide a peony younger than 4-5 years.
  2. Rare division of the bush. A bush aged 12-13 years must be divided.
  3. Acidic soils.
  4. Lack of potassium in the soil.
  5. Oversupply nitrogen fertilizers: peonies will increase their green mass to the detriment of flowering, and also get sick.
  6. Lots of fresh organic fertilizers.

Not all summer residents know how to properly divide and plant peonies, properly care for them. But without this knowledge, in a few years it will not be possible to enjoy lush bloom these amazing plants.

Wild peonies feel great in one place for more than 50 years and do not require special care. At the same time, the hybrid varieties that summer residents grow in flower beds need regular transplantation - at least once every 10 years. Peonies are also divided and planted, but only plants aged 4-5 years are suitable for this. However, for rejuvenation, healing and reproduction of the bush, transplantation should be carried out more often and at the same time get acquainted with all the intricacies of this process. And in this we will help you now.

When can I divide and transplant peonies

The best time for dividing and transplanting peonies so that they bloom better is the "velvet season" in late August - early September. At this time, it is still quite warm and it does not rain, and the plant has time to take root and adapt to the new composition of the soil over the winter. However, the timing of the division may be shifted depending on climatic conditions and specific region. For example, for St. Petersburg and Leningrad region the deadline for transplantation is September 10-15, for the southern regions - September 20-30. Peonies planted during these periods more easily endure the "moving" to a new place of residence and by the next summer they will give you an abundance of flowers.

Pion transplantation should be carried out only after flowering plants.

Sometimes you can find tips for transplanting peonies in the spring. This is an extreme measure, relevant only when the plant is threatened by something more serious than transplanting to a new place (for example, an attack by rodents or pests). It is not recommended to plant peonies in the spring, as they begin to get sick more often and flowers are almost not tied on them.

Pruning peonies after flowering

The "transitional" moment in the life of peonies is the flowering process. They usually fade in late May - early June, and flower growers do not always accept the right decision concerning further care behind the plant. So, what to do after the peonies have faded? There are two completely opposite opinions on this matter:

  • it is absolutely impossible to prune peonies after flowering, because it is at this time that flower buds are formed, which turn into luxurious flowers for the next year;
  • it is necessary to prune peonies after flowering almost immediately in order to prevent the development of diseases and the penetration of pests, as well as to rejuvenate and preserve the aesthetic beauty of the bush.

In our opinion, it is more preferable to avoid pruning flower stalks immediately after flowering. It is better to do this just before removing the bush from the ground. Firstly, you immediately stimulate the growth of the plant, cutting off all the stems almost to the base and leaving only small shoots 5-7 cm long. Secondly, you make your work easier by performing all the necessary operations in one step - both pruning and transplanting. In addition, extracting a clod of earth with a root system and several sprouts is easier and more convenient than a huge and sprawling bush.

Do not forget to take the leaves and stems outside the garden and burn them - harmful bacteria and fungi love to settle in plant debris.

Digging and rinsing peonies

Difficulties with digging up peonies are associated with the peculiarities of their root system. Usually for 4-5 years it grows to a great depth, individual rhizomes reach a length of 30 cm or more. The tips of the roots are most often thin and go even deeper into the soil. It is very difficult to dig them out without damage, so a few recommendations should be considered:

1. Dig up peonies should be dry and warm weather so that the clod of earth that you will take out along with the roots is not too heavy;

2. Install the shovel 30-40 cm from the center of the bush and place it vertically. If you place it obliquely, you will most likely cut off the tips of the roots;

3. Dig around the bush from all sides and carefully remove it from the ground. You can put a stop, for example, a brick, under the tray of a shovel or the teeth of a garden fork. Thus, the shovel will play the role of a lever. Do not apply too much force, otherwise the tool may be broken. It is better to carefully dig the bush again;

4. In no case do not pull the peony by the leaves (especially if the bush is more than 5-6 years old). Do not forget that the stems must be cut before digging, leaving stumps 5-10 cm high. It is for them, smoothly and effortlessly, that the plant should be pulled out;

Even if you did everything right, some of the roots will be damaged anyway. Clean the rhizome from clods of earth and rinse it thoroughly under running water, since a clean base is easier to mark and divide. This is also necessary in order to assess the condition of the kidneys and roots. After all, if in last years the plant has stopped blooming, it is likely that it has already begun to rot.

Peony division

Division is an important part of the "life" of a peony. This is a kind of rejuvenating procedure that allows you to rid the plant of dry and dead residues, foci of rot and rodent damage, as well as to stimulate further flowering.

To divide the roots you need a garden or durable kitchen knife, secateurs, and sometimes even a hatchet with a hammer.

Start dividing the peony about a day after the rhizome is removed from the ground. During this time, it should dry out a little. Before dividing the peony, carefully inspect the root system. From each stem leaves from 1 to 3 buds. Of these, the root system develops, which can be considered isolated, since it slightly lags behind the massive rhizome. It is these small delenki with one kidney that can be used in the first place, especially if you want to get a small flowering bush already on next year.

If you decide to share a piece with 2-3 buds, this does not mean that the bush will automatically bloom more magnificently and more abundantly. On the contrary, in this case, the plant will spend more energy on healing tissues in the places of pruning, but the likelihood of root rot will increase significantly.

On some roots, traces of the "barbaric activity" of mice will immediately become noticeable. They literally gnaw out large pieces of sweet and juicy roots. Such damaged roots cannot be transferred to a new place and, moreover, divided and transplanted.

In the future, the division process looks like this:

  • first of all, separate single buds with a small root system. Sometimes they literally lag behind the base themselves, and they only need to be trimmed slightly. Make sure that a sufficient number of thin suction roots leave the bud, which will help the plant survive the winter and provide it with nutrients in the spring;

  • remove dead parts and sprinkle cuts charcoal. Rub them so that they form dense layer coal. This will help prevent the entry of pests;

  • in the future, choose parts consisting of 2-3 growth buds. Try to carry out the division, holding the bush in weight, since the roots of the base are quite fragile, and if you put the bush on them, you can damage the entire rhizome. Keep in mind that the roots of an adult peony are very juicy and dense, and they must be carefully cut and actively torn apart with your hands, while trying not to damage;

  • remove old and dry stems, and rub all cuts with charcoal. Cut out rotten and rodent-damaged parts. Remove old and twisted rhizomes. From one bush aged 4-6 years, you can get 3-4 pieces of different sizes;

Planting a peony in open ground

Ideally, pits for peonies are prepared 3-4 months before the proposed transplant. The diameter of the landing pit is selected depending on the size of the division. But since it is impossible to predict the size of the division in advance, one should start from standard sizes pits. The average diameter of the pit is 40-50 cm, and the depth is 50-60 cm. landing pits large diameter make in order to fill them with a nutrient composition.

For fertilizer, 20 kg of humus or peat are placed at the bottom of the pit. Also contribute about 300 g of bone meal or 200 g of superphosphate. Then it all falls asleep fertile soil. For clay soils, a bucket of sand is added to the contents, for sandy soil - a bucket of clay.

After fertilizing the planting pit, you need to let the soil settle so that the delenka does not go deep into the ground. If there is no time for shrinkage, you can compact the soil and spill it with water (if it has not rained for the last 7-10 days). The resulting pit should be of such depth that the kidneys of the delenka are 5 cm below ground level. If you plant a peony higher, leaving the buds on the surface or at ground level, they are likely to freeze slightly. If, on the contrary, they are deepened, the pion will not have enough strength to drive the buds to the surface.

When planting, lay the delenka slightly to one side so that the plant can form buds on its own.

When planting without tamping the nutrient mixture, plant the peony a little higher, given that the soil will settle.

Then fill the hole with soil and spill the soil to eliminate the "air voids". After the water has been absorbed, mulch the planting site with dry compost.

Considering that peonies form a powerful and branched root system, with a continuous planting, each plant should be given enough free space. Therefore, the distance from the center of one bush to the center of another should be at least 60-80 cm. The landing site should be well lit and protected from the wind. Peonies should not be planted near the walls of houses and in the shade of trees.

The best plants-neighbors of peonies

Creating a beautiful flower arrangement led by peonies will require you to plant some other plants that go well with them. Most often, the following flowers act as neighbors of peonies:

  • daffodils;
  • tulips;
  • grouse;
  • Pushkinia;
  • phloxes;
  • lilies;
  • delphiniums;
  • geranium;
  • cuff;
  • geleniums;
  • irises;
  • clematis.

How to feed peonies in spring and summer

In spring, peonies actively begin to grow and absorb nutrients from the soil. First of all, the plant needs nitrogen as the basis of its vital activity. Nitrogen top dressings are used from the end of April to the beginning of June, and in total no more than three such top dressings are made:

  • first dressing carried out at the beginning of the growth of the bush. Most often, natural organic fertilizers are used - fresh mullein or bird droppings. In 10 liters of water, dilute 1 liter of mullein or bird droppings. You can also add potassium - in the form of 1 cup of ash or 30 potassium salt. The solution is thoroughly mixed and allowed to infuse for 3 days. Then the composition is mixed again and applied under the root at the rate of 0.5-1 l per plant;
  • second dressing usually carried out during the laying of buds. In 10 liters of water, dissolve 15 g of nitrogen and potassium, as well as 15-20 g of phosphorus. Under the bush, add no more than 1 liter of the composition;
  • third dressing takes place 1-2 weeks after flowering. At this time, add 10-15 g of potassium and 15-20 g of phosphorus under each bush;

Feeding a peony in the autumn

In autumn, the roots of peonies continue to grow. Therefore, in mid-September - early October, plants need additional feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. To begin with, water the bushes abundantly. And then carefully sprinkle around each of them 15-20 g of phosphorus and 10-15 g of potassium.

From organic fertilizers sometimes make wood ash(0.5 cups per 1 sq.m). It is enough to pour it along the contour of the bush and cover it with a layer of mulch no more than 1 cm thick.

The best varieties of herbaceous peonies

The modern variety of varieties of peonies allows you to select flowers in size, shape and color and create flower beds of stunning beauty. Among the peonies, there are several recognized leaders who have long enjoyed the well-deserved love of flower growers.

1.Ama-No-Sode (Ama No Sode) - this is one of the most beautiful varieties of the so-called "Japanese peonies". The flowers are very large, the petals are two-row, pink shade. The bush blooms late, but its flowers spread a pleasant and light aroma.

2. Anastasia (Anastasia) - one of the mid-early crown peonies, which belong to the terry varieties. Bushes of medium height (up to 1 m), are distinguished by drought and frost resistance. Pale pink inflorescences framing a crimson core with yellow stamens.

3. Barbara (Barbara) - unusual crowned peony of medium flowering time. The petals are bright pink, form a beautiful border around the modified stamens, which emit a pleasant, subtle aroma.

4. Coral " N Gold (Coral "N Gold") – early semi-double variety with an unusual coral shade of large petals and long stamens yellow color. Very favorably sets off dark green shrubs.

5. Etched Salmon (Etched Salmon) - the flowers of this variety are distinguished by pinkish-peach petals, which fade slightly over time and fill the air with an amazing aroma of fresh lemon. The variety is winter-hardy, and the bushes are practically not affected by botrytis (gray rot).

6. Raspberry Sundae (Raspberry Sunday)-this spherical, or bomb-shaped, peony, the most interesting thing is the colors. The yellow-cream center is bordered by pale pink outer petals. The bush is compact and small, and a stunning pink aroma comes from the flowers.

7. Red Charm (Red Charm) – another globular variety of peony with a huge rounded inflorescence. The flowers reach 25 cm in diameter and at the same time do not fade in the sun, retaining a bright crimson color for a long time. In general, bushes grow healthy and strong due to massive stems.

8.– a representative of rosaceous peonies, which first of all surprises with a delicate linden aroma and sparkling rose petals on a large bud. The plant withstands severe frosts and abnormal heat. The bushes are compact, no more than 80 cm in height.

Now you know everything about dividing and transplanting peonies. This is a fairly powerful plant that only grows stronger over the years, so do not delay with its "moving" to a new place. But, most importantly - do not rush and do not apply excessive force to the plant. And then every spring you will be able to enjoy its flowering and beauty.

white peony

Is frequent pion transplantation necessary?

Dig up and transplant peonies no more than once every five years. When dividing bushes, the plant is weakened and it takes time to grow, forming a new bush. With a frequent transplant of peonies, it will turn out like this: only a bush is in its prime, you dig it up and everything starts all over again. But the peony bush begins to fully bloom only for 2-3 years, depending on the size of the delenka.

It’s easy to transplant peony bushes, for example, to another place only when they are small, without damaging the roots and without shaking the peony root off the ground. But it's generally better not to.

Remember when to transplant peonies, this is important

For planting and dividing peony bushes, the best time is mid-August to end of September.

Until mid-August, peonies form renewal buds, from which new shoots will grow next year. With an earlier transplant, peony bushes will not have time to form them.

At the end of September, it usually already becomes cold and the planted peonies will not have time to take root well, to form new suction roots. This will delay their development for a long time. But if the weather is still warm in autumn, then plants can be transplanted in October. After all, year after year is not necessary.

pion division

Produced for a long time, so the plant must be provided with all the nutrients. It is advisable to fill the pit intended for planting with soil for 1-2 months, so that during this time the soil is settled.

At the peony bush, we cut the stems with leaves, leaving the petioles. Then we dig in the plant in a circle at a distance of about 20-25 cm from the petioles. Carefully bringing the pitchfork or shovel at an angle towards the center, loosen the bush with different parties and take it out of the ground.

We clean the root from the ground, remove the rotten or damaged parts of the root.

If the roots and eyes are too juicy and brittle, you can let the plant stand for several hours in the air.

Based on the number of buds and the size of the bush, we will determine how many parts a peony can be divided into.

In the center of the bush, choosing the place where the kidneys and root are least damaged, we drive in a wooden wedge and carefully separate peony root.

A good full-fledged delenka usually has 2-3 kidneys, the smallest can have 1 bud and 1 root.

Sprinkle the surfaces of breaks or cuts with charcoal. If there were rotten parts, then before planting, you can hold the delenki in a solution of potassium permanganate.

We select a part of the earth from a pre-prepared pit, place a delenka there and fall asleep so that the distance from the kidneys to the surface of the earth was no more than 5 cm.

We water the peony.

For the winter, transplanted plants are best covered with leaves, peat, compost.

The first two years after the transplant, we do not let the peony bloom, removing the buds so as not to deplete the unformed root.

Starting next year, the usual one begins, not forgetting, of course, that young plant regular watering is required.

So, peonies, when to transplant, how to propagate, care - the topic of our conversation. During the flowering of peonies, the garden is transformed beyond recognition. Very beautiful and festive! It turns out that this flower can grow, bloom magnificently in one place for 100 years or more! And this means that it is worth paying more attention and time to the issues of choosing a place, preparing the soil. Look at the photo of the peony at the end of the article - is your garden still not decorated with such chic flowers?

Purchased peony roots - what they should be

A beautiful, profusely flowering peony bush cannot grow out of a bad one. planting material. sign good quality peony root - delenki (the so-called part of the root tuber, separated from mother plant) - large or very large, bright, shiny buds of renewal, as well as the absence of areas affected by rot. Most best root peony for planting - delenka with a bunch of young thin roots and several large buds.

It is very easy to distinguish young roots from old ones. Old peony roots are usually darker, young ones are lighter. The length of the roots should be 15-25 cm, thickness - 10 mm or more.

The root collar is the most weakness peony, a gateway for infection. The more old tissue on the root collar, the more likely it is to have an infection. At the same time, old tissue is a field "sown" with dormant buds. According to my observations, delenki from 2-3-year-old bushes with 1-2 buds develop much better than very large ones with 3-5 buds from old bushes. Young ones are somewhat behind in growth compared to the "old men" only for the first 2-3 years, and as the roots grow, they overtake them.

In divisions from old bushes, hollows are often found, formed as a result of an infection. But if the rhizomes do not rot, but the hollow is surrounded by healthy tissue, then this defect is insignificant. True, such roots can become a haven for garden ants.

Note! The place of the cut or break should be matte. If it shines when wetted, this indicates the presence of putrefactive processes. In this case, very carefully clean all sections to healthy tissue.

Peonies - planting in open ground

A landing hole measuring 60x60x60 cm should be prepared in advance. On dense soil (clay, heavy black soil), it must be filled with a loose nutrient soil mixture rich in humus. After all, the peony is a big gourmet, in the spring it always lacks nitrogen. If the soil is light, the hole can not be prepared in advance. If you dug a hole just before planting, then be sure to fill it with water so that the soil quickly settles.

Before planting, the delenka is soaked in water. Heavily dried delenki can be left in a container with water for up to three days. Peony drinks water no less than cabbage. But from excess moisture, the roots can burst, forming cracks. Therefore, it is important to monitor this process and prevent them from cracking.

Young delenki are planted in rows, taking into account the size: small ones - vertically, and large ones - at an angle. Immediately before planting, all suspicious places on the rhizomes are inspected, if necessary, they are cleaned to a healthy tissue. The places of cuts, breaks and the root neck are abundantly sprinkled with wood ash.

Before planting, the purchased delenka is soaked for 30 minutes in a suspension of foundationazole or topsin-M (according to the instructions), and then dipped in clay mash sour cream consistency with the addition of up to 100 g of copper sulfate.

Planting depth peonies

In the floricultural literature, it is usually written that when planting a peony, the buds should be at a depth of 2-3 cm from the soil surface, since peonies do not bloom when planted in depth. However, this is not always true. For example, interspecific hybrids able to germinate, even if the root was at a depth of 60 cm. I had such a case. True, flowering had to wait a long 7 years.

But shallow planting, in which the root neck is too close to the soil surface, is very dangerous: it suffers not only from heat and frost, but also from excess melt water in the spring (this can cause peony bushes to fall out).

Peony - when to transplant

From my point of view, in the Kuban not earlier than October 15-20. Why? Because peonies lay flower buds in the first decade of October, when the leaves are still green, that is, there is an outflow nutrients in the rhizome. This process continues until the leaves turn yellow. This is what you need to focus on when determining the timing of digging and dividing the bushes.

Usually in the literature it is recommended to plant peonies in August. However, these times are for Middle lane Russia and Belarus. In our country, in the Kuban, it is much warmer, therefore, the landing dates are different. If they ask me for shoots of peonies, then I spend the division and planting for reproduction in early October. But planting material can be planted until frost.

How to divide peonies when transplanting

The bush chosen for division is dug up with a clod of earth and washed from the ground with a strong stream of water. If there are several divisions, from the bushes different varieties, then you need to hang labels with the name of the variety and transfer them to a dark place for 1-2 days. During this time, the roots fade somewhat. This facilitates division, prevents breaking, cracking of the roots in the wrong place.

Peony rhizomes of 4-5 years of age can be divided into divisions with an ax, setting its blade in the center of the root neck so that there are the same number of buds on the right and left. Tapping with a heavy hammer on the butt of the ax, cut the bush in half. Next they go sharp knife and secateurs.

A pruner is enough to divide old bushes, and a 2-3-year-old bush easily breaks into divisions even with hands.

Place for planting a peony - which one to choose

Peonies tolerate light or partial shade well. At my dacha there are peonies that are around the clock in an area open to the sun, and there are those that are illuminated by the sun in the morning and evening, and in the afternoon, in the very sun, they find themselves in deep shade. Everywhere they feel great, but it seems to me that in the area where the peony bushes are in the shade for some time of the day, they bloom more beautifully and longer than others.

As you can see, peonies have a lot of secrets. But a person in love with these flowers will always find an approach to his pets, reveal their secrets.

It is important to know about peonies such little secret. They have two distinct periods of active root formation (build-up of suction feeding roots) - at the end of August-September and in early spring from awakening and strictly until mid-May. As for evil, they begin to seduce us with seedlings in February-March. What to do? I buy, store them as much as I can in the state of sleeping beauties, who woke up, I put him on the loggia in suitable containers, cherish until spring. Optimum temperature should be somewhere + 5 ° С, the maximum allowable + 15 ° С, the minimum allowable up to -5 ° С (I cover well at a lower temperature, put it in a large cardboard box). I plant my winter peonies at the very beginning of May, and there are no problems. But I had (unknowingly) experiences of planting from containers in June ... The plants, to put it mildly, did not feel well. Several trees were killed, although they looked fine before planting. So I was convinced of the validity of the recommendation: if it was not possible to plant until mid-May, then it is better to keep the peonies in containers until August, it will be more comfortable there. You can dig in the shade.

http://myproplants.com/100029/a126633/p554059/

From my own experience, I was convinced that peonies (herbaceous) planted in spring or early summer slow down their development and do not bloom ... I did it out of necessity (I saved peonies that were subject to "liquidation" from friends), I hope this year they will still please with flowering !

http://www.asienda.ru/post/29767/

My granny planted like this: she dug a hole, put it on the bottom broken brick and on top of the old fabric, such as a padded jacket, so that the fabric is thick. I sprinkled all this with earth and only then stuck the seedling. It turned out that the root grew in breadth, and not in depth, and this gave many flowers.

https://answer.mail.ru/question/24292928

peony photo

If you want your site next year to be decorated with peony bushes strewn with flowers, then you need to take care of this even in the current season. It is worth updating the planting by dividing the old bushes. September is the best time for dividing and transplanting peonies, because in this case, young bushes will give color next spring.

Helpful Hints

You can only divide the bushes if the donor plant has already reached the age of four. Younger bushes can only be divided if it is a medicinal peony or interspecific hybrids.

You can get the maximum planting material from the mother plant at the age of 5 ... 7 years. Peony rhizome by this age accumulates great amount nutrients. And this is a guarantee that young bushes will actively develop.

It is not worth using bushes older than 8 years as donors, because due to the rather strong damage to the underground part by various rots, the amount of high-quality planting material is significantly reduced.

How to divide and transplant a peony

The process is simple, the main thing is to follow all the recommendations.
1. First you need to cut the bush to 1/3 of the entire height and tie the remaining green mass. This must be done in order not to break off the stems and not damage the kidneys.
2. Next, the bush prepared in this way must be carefully dug around the circumference and carefully removed from the ground.
3. root system washed running water until its complete release from the old soil. This will provide better visibility of the buds on the rhizome.
4. If the rhizome is very powerful, then it must first be divided into two parts. To do this, simply drive a wooden stake into its center.
5. Now the resulting parts are divided in half again. Next, proceed to the division of the resulting rhizomes into planting units. For this, a sharp garden knife is used.
6. All unusable parts must be removed, and healthy roots must be shortened to 12 ... 20 centimeters. A good viable division should have 3-5 buds and a couple of strong fleshy roots.
7. Landing pits are always prepared in advance. When planting, make sure that the topmost kidney of the delenka is about 3 ... .5 centimeters below the soil level.
8. The earth around the bush cannot be tamped. Otherwise, you can damage the growth buds and the roots themselves.
9. After planting, the pit should be well watered and mulched. Both peat and humus are suitable here.

When choosing a location, remember that peonies love a lot of light. That is why it is recommended to choose protected from strong winds, but not too shaded areas of the garden.

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